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Ferodo
1987 Jaguar XJS Parking Brake Shoe Ferodo

P311-5533973    W0133-1612707  New

Qty:
$95.30
Ferodo Parking Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Chas: 188105-, Hand Brake W/ Teves brake system *W/O Hardware**
Brand: Ferodo
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Vehicle Chassis Range
1987 - Jaguar XJS 188105 and up
Ferodo
1992 Jaguar XJ6 Parking Brake Shoe Ferodo

P311-5533973    W0133-1612707  New

Qty:
$95.30
Ferodo Parking Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Hand Brake W/ Teves brake system *W/O Hardware**
Brand: Ferodo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1992 - Jaguar XJ6
Ferodo
1993 Jaguar XJRS Parking Brake Shoe Ferodo

P311-5533973    W0133-1612707  New

Qty:
$95.30
Ferodo Parking Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; W/ Teves brake system *W/O Hardware**
Brand: Ferodo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Jaguar XJRS
ATE
2008 Land Rover Range Rover Sport Parking Brake Shoe ATE - - w/o Hardware

P311-2074CB1    W0133-1922572  New

Qty:
$127.98
ATE Parking Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - w/o Hardware
Brand: ATE
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Vehicle
2008 - Land Rover Range Rover Sport
ATE
2006 Land Rover LR3 Parking Brake Shoe ATE - - w/o Hardware

P311-2074CB1    W0133-1922572  New

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$127.98
ATE Parking Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Chas: -6A365726
  • - w/o Hardware
Brand: ATE
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2006 - Land Rover LR3 HSE up to 6A365726
ATE
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ATE Parking Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Chas: 6A365727-
  • - w/o Hardware
Brand: ATE
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2006 - Land Rover LR3 HSE 6A365727 and up
ATE
2006 Land Rover Range Rover Sport Parking Brake Shoe ATE - - w/o Hardware

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ATE Parking Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Chas: 6A927733-
  • - w/o Hardware
Brand: ATE
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Chassis Range
2006 - Land Rover Range Rover Sport 6A927733 and up
ATE
2006 Land Rover Range Rover Sport Parking Brake Shoe ATE - - w/o Hardware

P311-2074CB1    W0133-1922572  New

Qty:
$127.98
ATE Parking Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Chas: -6A927732
  • - w/o Hardware
Brand: ATE
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Chassis Range
2006 - Land Rover Range Rover Sport up to 6A927732
ACDelco
2008 GMC Sierra 1500 Parking Brake Shoe ACDelco - Service One Side

P311-3D0EA69    W0133-1868460  New

Qty:
$68.33
ACDelco Parking Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
  • Service One Side
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
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2008 - GMC Sierra 1500 SLE
ACDelco
2008 GMC Sierra 1500 Parking Brake Shoe ACDelco - Set of 2

P311-3D0EA69    W0133-1868460  New

Qty:
$68.33
ACDelco Parking Brake Shoe
  • Silver (Advantage)
  • Set of 2
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2008 - GMC Sierra 1500 SLE
ACDelco
2008 GMC Sierra 1500 Parking Brake Shoe ACDelco - Set of 2

P311-3D0EA69    W0133-1868460  New

Qty:
$68.33
ACDelco Parking Brake Shoe
  • Professional DuraStop
  • Set of 2
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle Submodel
2008 - GMC Sierra 1500 SLE
ACDelco
2008 GMC Yukon Parking Brake Shoe ACDelco - Service One Side

P311-3D0EA69    W0133-1868460  New

Qty:
$68.33
ACDelco Parking Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
  • ; Incl.Hold Down Spring & Bolt
  • Service One Side
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - GMC Yukon
ACDelco
2008 GMC Yukon Parking Brake Shoe ACDelco - Set of 2

P311-3D0EA69    W0133-1868460  New

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$68.33
ACDelco Parking Brake Shoe
  • Silver (Advantage)
  • ; Incl.Hold Down Spring & Bolt
  • Set of 2
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - GMC Yukon
ACDelco
2008 GMC Yukon Parking Brake Shoe ACDelco - Set of 2

P311-3D0EA69    W0133-1868460  New

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ACDelco Parking Brake Shoe
  • Professional DuraStop
  • ; Incl.Hold Down Spring & Bolt
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Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2008 - GMC Yukon
ACDelco
2013 Cadillac Escalade EXT Parking Brake Shoe ACDelco - Service One Side

P311-3D0EA69    W0133-1868460  New

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$68.33
ACDelco Parking Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
  • ; Incl.Hold Down Clip,Bolt
  • Service One Side
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - Cadillac Escalade EXT
ACDelco
2013 Cadillac Escalade EXT Parking Brake Shoe ACDelco - Set of 2

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  • Silver (Advantage)
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Vehicle
2013 - Cadillac Escalade EXT
ACDelco
2013 Cadillac Escalade EXT Parking Brake Shoe ACDelco - Set of 2

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  • Professional DuraStop
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Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2013 - Cadillac Escalade EXT
ACDelco
2014 GMC Yukon XL 1500 Parking Brake Shoe ACDelco - Service One Side

P311-3D0EA69    W0133-1868460  New

Qty:
$68.33
ACDelco Parking Brake Shoe
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
  • ; Incl.Hold Down Clip, Bolt
  • Service One Side
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - GMC Yukon XL 1500
ACDelco
2014 GMC Yukon XL 1500 Parking Brake Shoe ACDelco - Set of 2

P311-3D0EA69    W0133-1868460  New

Qty:
$68.33
ACDelco Parking Brake Shoe
  • Silver (Advantage)
  • ; Incl.Hold Down Clip, Bolt
  • Set of 2
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - GMC Yukon XL 1500
ACDelco
2014 GMC Yukon XL 1500 Parking Brake Shoe ACDelco - Set of 2

P311-3D0EA69    W0133-1868460  New

Qty:
$68.33
ACDelco Parking Brake Shoe
  • Professional DuraStop
  • ; Incl.Hold Down Clip, Bolt
  • Set of 2
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2014 - GMC Yukon XL 1500

Latest Parking Brake Shoe Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

chevy 3500 emergency brake adjustment

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on chevy 3500 emergency brake adjustment

How do you adjust the emergency brake on 2003 chevy 3500 express?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Does the 3500 have disc or drum regular service brakes in the rear? If disc there was a factory flaw with a small drum brake inside the rotor that GM won't own up to and only replacing it all will get it right. It happens to the driver's side only and a clip is asymetrically backwards allowing the parking brake shoe to wear out in no time unseen till you get there. If either fails - neither will work,

T

Response From Guest

they are discs. Just had the e-brake done in january, maybe used it 5 times and it doesnt hold anymore.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It sounds like the problem I had with a Tahoe about that year but just 1/2 ton vehicle. Can't say for the 3500 but it's the same problem. That little drum brake is really not a wearing brake as it is stationary when used unless a sticky cable didn't let it release fully.

On the Tahoe the brake was fixed at just a few months old under warranty but all they did is max out the adjuster under the vehicle. This is a family car and it is used for towing boats now and then. Well soon after it didn't work again and he (brother) ignored it till it wouldn't hold on a boat ramp so I got the job to fix it.

Took both back rotors off and right side was fine and left side was gone - no lining at all left on front shoe. The remaining metal of the shoe just tiltled with no resistance and it wore out just from regular driving. It was a stupid clip but required the whole shooting match to get it right and aftermarket parts were right. You have to remove the caliper, the bracket then the rotor to get a look at it. I could be wrong but it's so similar to the one I dealt with.

I don't know how many were made like that new and GM took no responsibility over the phone to their engineering group that handles this. I took pics and I think my bro did get reimbursed but I forget now.

It is important that it work especially when you may need to park on a hill.

Hit back if that's what you find wrong because I'm interested if nothing else,

T

Response From Guest

sounds like the same thing. I took the tires off looked at the back of the rotor but i dont think with my mechanical experience I should try this. I use the truck for my business which is regulated by the D.O.T. needless to say I did not pass the inspection. I wonder if it is worth calling chevy or am I wasting my time.

thanks for the help

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm not going to send you into taking this apart yourself if you don't trust your experiance and perhaps don't have tools for this.

Call GM with VIN at hand - toll free # should be in owner's manual. You have nothing to lose and there may be a TSB (technical service bulletin) on this by now.

If you can get a shop to just do the looking it will be apparent with rotor removed if that is in fact the trouble. I'm not sure how common this is and techs may miss it but if that hold down clip doesn't hold down right that is it. Alert a tech to look for that as it doesn't catch your eye right away.

If parts are a problem a large brake warehouse company near me is excellent at these issues. They will ship parts but that's not their thing as a rule.

Ph: 978-562-7004 ask for Jim or Bear. Website may help or direct email to owner may help too if you and mention my name or Michael's Enterprises.

These are NOT competitive or contradictory to this site in any way,

www.automotivebrake.us or Jim at JIMABW120@CS.com

Good luck and please post back what you find with yours as this could help a lot of folks with the same problem,

T

Locked Brakes

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on Locked Brakes

I have a 93' Ford mustang and it has been sitting for awhile. My brakes seemed to have locked up. What can i do to release them so i can move and\or sell the piece?

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

It is possible(if it has drum rear) the shoes are rusted to the drums. You might be able to drive it forward and backewards a little and free them up. Or jack it up and remove wheel and release the brake shoes through the adjuster hole. If it had rear disc, it is possible the parking brake shoes are holding the brakes. Good luck.

Blazer 2004 Rear Rotars

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From blazer04 on Blazer 2004 Rear Rotars

Hello,
The Rear Rotars on a 2004 Chevy Blazer have never been taken off and need to be replaced. They are rusty and won't come off. Are there any tips/tricks to help get them off?
Help!

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Spray some penetrating oil around the hub area and as long as you are replacing them, you can use a big hammer to hit them from behind. If they get loose but won't come all the way off, then the parking brake shoe may be grooved inside and you'll have to back that off.

1999 VW Jetta GL sitting outdoors 1 - 2 years

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From johnnykoch on 1999 VW Jetta GL sitting outdoors 1 - 2 years

Hello all!

I have a 1999 VW Jetta GL 2.0L 4cyl. It's been sitting outside uncovered for at least a year but up to 2. I just changed the battery and started her up. She started and I left her run for about 20 - 30 minutes. I didn't drive it anywhere because I didn't want to destroy anything and... the back driver side wheel/brake is seized.

My question is... what would you recommend I do to prevent any issues down the road. It sat with a 1/2 tank of gas for the total duration.

If you need any more information about it I will gladly give it.

Thanks in advance!
- Johnny

Response From synchro Top Rated Answer

Drain the tank, add fresh fuel and replace the fuel filter on it, add a can of dry gas, change the oil and filter, check all fluids, add as needed, flush the cooling system and refill w/ proper coolant to proper protection level for your climate, replace the radiator cap and drive it . Also check the tires for dry rot. They might need to be replaced also. The parking brake shoes might be stuck to the drum on that side.

Parking Brake not working after replacing calipers

Showing 7 out of 34 Posts | Show 27 Hidden Posts
Question From JoeG_Sr on Parking Brake not working after replacing calipers

2000 Tahoe (new body style), 90K miles.

Background. I had just changed the rear pads on my 2000 Tahoe after which they smoked on an intermittent basis. It was suggested here that I replace the calipers because they have a history of sticking.

Well I finally had the money to do that along with new pads.

I checked out the parking brake shoes and they looked fine with plenty of thickness less. There was no cracking or uneven wear (to my untrained eyes).

Put everything back together and now I don't have a parking brake. The pedal easily goes all the way to the floor and doesn't prevent the truck from moving.

I checked and when the pedal is pressed to the floor the cable moves the mechanism moves on each rear brake. The mechanism also disengages when the parking brake is released.

The parking brake was working before I did all this because I had to disengage it to remove the rotor.

What could I have done in replacing the caliper/removing the rotor that could have caused the parking brake to no longer work?

I've looked and you have to remove the rotor to adjust the parking brake mechanism. I didn't touch any of that mechanism while I had the rotor removed.


Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Before you wreck your new pads toss the rotors. That little drum brake inside will be messed up no doubt and unless you drag those holding park release now and then are just a rusted or dirt filled mess. They are static not rubbing to self clean friction surface so always suk. Not such a bright idea but a few did that, that way.


Do hardware too. No telling if you can reuse the shoes till you are there. DON'T adjust the cable but adjust those from inside as the cable adjustment should be fine and if needed do that adjustment after you get it right at the wheel. The mid ship cable adjuster if not lubed will be a pest or break so get ready for a domino effect.


Your call to toss the flex hoses too. Not doing it right the first time as in not servicing or replacing rotors just makes you start all over again later or earlier plus don't work well and might not break in to rotor's imperfections,


T

Response From JoeG_Sr

Tom

OK. Good idea to replace the rotors.

But why would I have lost adjustment on the parking brake by just taking off the rotor?

Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Chances are it gave you some "persuasion" to get rotor off pulling on the shoes and hardware. If adjusted fell out of place on one I don't think you get either side.
The shoes MUST stay in place with a hold-down spring. If tilted it doesn't take but a few miles and they are toast! Went thru this with a 2001 (I think) under warranty and they flucked it up and wouldn't mess with it twice as it worked to get off the lot and nobody up for a fight about it - brand new, no time as it was towing a boat and you can't be without on boat ramps.


At least, caliper off again with bracket needed to remove rotor entirely - I think. You should see the problem staring at you when right there.


Remember it's a "static" brake not generally ever used while wheel is turning so by rights should never wear out except for already mentioned broken or perhaps hardware that fell out of place somehow. I just know those dang little shoes don't last if rubbing/working and can do it such that you don't really notice.


Do yourself a favor when you are at these things. Use a smear of brake lube on the hub so it doesn't fight you again and good lube of the correct places of calipers EVERY time you may have them off. DO NOT LUBE THE BRAKET BOLTS as they need to be stuck and tight.


I really think you'll plain see the trouble. Try something. Pull on cable and you might see which side moves more pulling midway under vehicle and do that one first to see what happened. Suks but still always best to replace things in pairs - both sides get the same,


T

Response From JoeG_Sr

OK. Took it all apart. The e-brake shoes were nearly as thick as the new shoes so I didn't replace them. I had to adjust the e-brake mechanism and now have a working parking brake.

But now here is my concern. I installed new caliper and brackets, pads and now new rotors.

The outside pad barely fit between the rotor and the bracket (in fact I installed the outside shoe before bolting the bracket back on) and the inside pad is only being held in place by the tip of the pad. It seems like as the pad wears it will fall off the bracket.

It's like the entire assembly is off by about 1/8 - 1/4". What could I be missing?

Response From Hammer Time

Is the rotor riding in center of the gap in the bracket?

Response From JoeG_Sr

Is the rotor riding in center of the gap in the bracket?

No I would it is riding to the outside of the bracket.

I'll swing by the parts store to confirm what they gave me but everything lined up correctly and "looks" right.

Response From Hammer Time

That means you either have the wrong rotor or it's not fully seated.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? Something's all wrong. First year of that style TMK. There were problems with parking brake clip right away on some, think it was a 2001 w two left handed hold-down clips for the parking brake that wore it out in no time from new tilting the shoes.


IDK if there was a HD option and you got that rotor or regular duty or what was possible for a Tahoe. Just by smell I think since you had to mess with the little drum adjustment and now that bracket wasn't centered it's the wrong rotor. In wrong box or any reason. It happens.


What to do? Perhaps take rotors back and check with another pair OR if you have the old ones compare them. Can only guess by the trouble you are having - wrong rotors likely is my call so far now,
T

Response From Hammer Time

You should be able to just take the rotor off and sit it next to the old one and compare the height.

Response From JoeG_Sr

The lack of parking brake had nothing to do with the new rotors. Last week after replacing the calipers and brackets I no longer had a functioning parking brake. All I did last week was take the rotor off to look at e-brake shoes. Tom suggested replacing the rotors so I did that this weekend and adjusted the parking brake at the same time.

Am I certain I had a parking brake before replacing the calipers last week No. but it did pass inspection and they are supposed to check the parking brake.

I measured the new rotors and they are identical to the old ones. This year came with 19 mm or 30 mm thick rotors (mine are 19 mm) and the overall height of the rotors is the same.

Here's a picture of the pad position. This is better than when I first installed them (the rotor must not have been completed seated until the put the tire on) but you can see the inside pad is at the edge of the bracket.


Response From Hammer Time

I don't see any problem at all there. You likely didn't have the rotor fully seated when you were putting it together and putting the wheel on seated it. It stays loose until the lug nuts lock it down.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Maybe my eyesight but metal backing plate (low in pic) of inner pad looks only partly on the "land" area that holds it in place. Rotor might not be fully seated? If that is set there to me it looks like with wear it wouldn't be held in place? Dang, being right there would be nice with it in hands!


You can put a few lug nuts back on taper side out and usually get hub of rotor fully in place about as if wheel was on and tight.


If hub surface was crusty enough with rust it should have been scraped off totally clean. Some can be quite badly rusted, flakes fall down unseen and rotor would be untrue even when tightened up if so.


This should not be this much trouble so I'm missing something,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I was typing and a phone call when you noted what I saw. That isn't right,


T

Response From Discretesignals

Get off the phone darnit...LOL


You can see the rotor is cocked because it probably isn't seating all the way on the hub which will cause the pads to be out of position. All that stuff should be centered up when you bolt the wheel on.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I can't help the dang phone DS! LOL. OP - don't tighten that up with wheel it has to be right and might jam caliper against inside of wheel.


THIS MUST BE RIGHT NO GAMES OF COURSE AS IT'S BRAKES. NOT READY TO GO AT ALL.


Start over with bracket caliper, rotor off and just feel the rotor bottom out on hub with nothing else in place. Put lug nuts on to hold rotor as mentioned earlier. If still wrong could be back to wrong rotor or not seating on hub. Dishing of it just isn't close to right - do not drive it till it is,


Tom

Response From JoeG_Sr

Took everything off. Cleaned the hub. Put the rotor and bracket back on and put a few lugs on.



Still a big gap difference between the inside and outside of the rotor.

However, when I put the pads in place, the knob of the inside pad no longer hangs over the bracket. In fact, its probably "inside" the edge of bracket by about 1/16".

Not sure you can see that in this picture.

I'll still head to the part store to see if there is a different bracket. This year came with single or dual piston caliper (mine is dual) and the 19 mm or 30 mm thick rotor. Almost seems like the bracket I got is suited for a thicker rotor.

Thanks for everyone's help!!!

?t=1391888822

Response From Discretesignals

That sure isn't right. Those years of GM trucks and vans are a pain in the arse to get the right parts for because they had so many options.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That bracket is redone and they want the old one. That alone could be the problem? It's NOT right. Call store if you left old ones to hold and mark them. Something is wrong totally. Just shat luck.


Please - we are on this but can't always sit on this place so do get this centered whatever it takes and right now I say wrong parts again, Tom

Response From JoeG_Sr

The parts store still had my core. So we measured it against a "new" one. Identical. Just to confirm, I brought my old one home and installed. Same thing.

There is no difference in the bracket for the 19 or 30 mm thick rotor so it has to accommodate both. So it leaves a big gap on the 19 mm. Just looks like an accident waiting to happen.

Again. Thanks for everyone's help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Then rotor is not on properly somehow or not correct rotor. Not just thickness but depth of the dishing of it meaning how deeply it hovers over hub to clear wheel. That, bracket, caliper must be operational and in range for worn or new parts and pics shown it isn't right now. IDK, for all I know rotor is for front not rear or just wrong if bracket is identical to old one,


T

Response From DanD

The way it looks to me its the wrong rotor. Is this by chance a dual piston caliper set up?
Looking at the specs of the two different rotors; the dual piston caliper's rotor looks like a better fit; going by the pictures you posted.
The hat of the duel piston rotor is 11mm taller which would move it closer to the inside of the perch.
Its also 5mm larger in overall diameter. Looking at your pictures the pads are running right at the edge if not over the edge of the disc.
The AC Delco part # for the dual piston caliper rotor is 18A1412.
I know you said that you compared the rotor with the old; but who's to say the old ones were the proper ones?

Dan.

PS Boy you guys type fast by the time I looked up the specs you guy are on to the second page of this thread LOL

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote from Dan's post ">>but who's to say the old ones were the proper ones?" Yikes, a 2000 w 90,000K miles would probably have had all this stuff redone and some reason worked so now matching up old/new parts gets questioned - good point Dan as usual. That would mess anyone up.


OP - Sorry for the long thread but this has to come to a real fix. Something bugged me right off when the parking brake needed adjustment for new rotors but shoes didn't appear worn - ?? Bear with us trying - groping for why this is rearing it's ugly head. Dare say all involved have had some issue along the way with these - for me was brand new Tahoe (family owned not mine nor real near me) and dealer quit doing anything under warranty with no miles on the thing after two tries. 2001 or2002? aftermarket parts already available that fixed it with no help from GM which is now off this exact topic but there were issues on some right away - that's all. I feel you pain - this is just not cooperating, Tom

Response From JoeG_Sr

Just so you know I am not a complete idiot here's the rotors. The correct rotor is the 30 mm thick one as everything looked great once it was installed.



We put about 50K miles on the truck in the first 3 years. All the rotors were replaced by the dealer. Since then we only put about 40K on and this is the first time that I have replaced the rear brakes since the dealer did.

Clearly the dealer screwed up and put the incorrect rotors on the truck. We are lucky that it never caused an accident.

Even with the JC5 RPO code I never found a reference that showed it needed the 30 mm rotors. I did find a technical service bulletin for a 01 Sierra pick-up that described a 30 mm rotor for a JC5 RPO.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Big difference huh? WOW - Surprised like you it ever worked properly. Sorry for you it was such a hassle. Still check parking brake. lube slides/anti-rattle things. Bracket looks like it should have come pre lubed for slide pins.


Just watch out if the master adjustment usually in center under vehicle is all off for parking cables. I'd like to hear once driven all back together that it's working just ducky.


Good luck and good for you for perusing this,


Tom

Response From JoeG_Sr

It's back together and working great. I was on the cold ground this morning installing the correct rotors. Had to get it done because we live in NC and have a huge (for us) snow and ice storm arriving now. Without it running, we would be trapped at our house.

I think the parking brake issue was completely unrelated to the caliper replacement. I'm guessing with how much lining was still on the the e-brake shoes , I've never had a working parking brake. Really makes you wonder how it passed inspection all these years.

I've never put the truck in drive to see if the parking brake held. I only did it this time to make sure I had everything back together after I replaced the caliper.

Thanks to everyone for their help.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If the spin free don't open a new problem till storm has past NC now. Same crap heading all the way up coast just more able to deal with it here in Mass. Stay safe on both fronts! Tom

Response From JoeG_Sr

UPDATE: When I returned the old brackets there was another manager I spoke with.

A single piston caliper bracket has a much narrower gap and it looks like it "fits" a 19 mm thick rotor.

The dual piston caliper bracket has a much wider gap which looks like it is for the 30 mm thick rotor.

Their guess (and yours) is that the rotors I took off the truck (19 mm) are wrong. I had the rotors last replaced by the dealer about 8 years ago. You would think (NOT!) they would get it right.

So I am looking at the RPO codes. The only one I have on my tahoe is JC5 which returns "Brake System (6100-7200 # GVWR) 4 Wheel Disc Brakes (Gasoline – Vacuu, Type Booster)"

Trying to uncover exactly what that means

Response From Hammer Time

So I am looking at the RPO codes. The only one I have on my tahoe is JC5 which returns "Brake System (6100-7200 # GVWR) 4 Wheel Disc Brakes (Gasoline – Vacuu, Type Booster)"

That's the right way to do it.

Response From Hammer Time

If the parts are identical, then the problem has to be in the installation.

Response From Hammer Time

Looks to me like you might have the clips on backwards. Try swapping top and bottom.

Response From JoeG_Sr

The inside brake pad is still overhanging the inside of the bracket by about 1/2 the width of the knob of the pad. See the yellow line inside the yellow circle. Whereas the outside pad is right in the middle of the bracket.

It seems that as the pad wears away, it could fall out of the bracket.





Response From Hammer Time

I can't really see the area you are referring to there and there appears to be about 3 different designs for that year. Did you match all the new parts with the old ones?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? You may have wrong parts? Caliper and new pads can be real close when all is new so I'll take that. One good stop and that would settle in just right by itself if all was really good. E-brake really should have been right for new rotors and dunno why but if for some reason you adjust that right at it there not the cable going to it part so fast.


Does each wheel spin freely by hand? Yes you have to either hoist or be in neutral and know if e-brake or service brake is dragging if so. You do this stuff in order - e-brake set first if anything needed then put on service brake installed so it's not confusing anything.


I didn't design this two brakes in one rotor idea but it wasn't up to me. They work when done right and tended to thru the life of the parts involved,


T