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Best Selling Genuine Oldsmobile Oxygen Sensors

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ACDelco
2002 Oldsmobile Bravada Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-295240C    W0133-1666630  New

Qty:
$73.68
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2002 - Oldsmobile Bravada
Delphi
2004 Oldsmobile Bravada Oxygen Sensor Delphi

P311-2CEBB7B    W0133-1765605  New

Qty:
$77.07
Delphi Oxygen Sensor
Brand: Delphi
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Vehicle
2004 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-3368825    W0133-1890597  New

Qty:
$59.55
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
1999 - Oldsmobile Intrigue
ACDelco
1993 Oldsmobile Silhouette Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-29C6A86    W0133-1917900  New

Qty:
$66.37
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
1993 - Oldsmobile Silhouette
ACDelco
1997 Oldsmobile Cutlass Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-09C9C68    W0133-1918222  New

Qty:
$101.37
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
1997 - Oldsmobile Cutlass
ACDelco
1998 Oldsmobile 88 Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-47C893B    W0133-1833385  New

Qty:
$53.69
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
1998 - Oldsmobile 88
ACDelco
1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-09746F9    W0133-1814238  New

Qty:
$20.64
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1982 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais
ACDelco
1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-09746F9    W0133-1814238  New

Qty:
$23.43
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1982 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais
ACDelco
2000 Oldsmobile Alero Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-2DDAA0E    W0133-1823133  New

Qty:
$57.49
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2000 - Oldsmobile Alero
ACDelco
2000 Oldsmobile Alero Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-2DDAA0E    W0133-1823133  New

Qty:
$29.14
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Oldsmobile Alero
ACDelco
2002 Oldsmobile Bravada Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-4F8C116    W0133-1763262  New

Qty:
$64.73
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
2001 Oldsmobile Bravada Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-2E20011    W0133-1986006  New

Qty:
$43.40
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
1994 Oldsmobile 98 Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-4F532D4    W0133-1891309  New

Qty:
$43.34
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Oldsmobile 98
ACDelco
1994 Oldsmobile 98 Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-4F532D4    W0133-1891309  New

Qty:
$56.40
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
1994 - Oldsmobile 98
Denso
1996 Oldsmobile Bravada Oxygen Sensor - Downstream 6 Cyl 4.3L Denso

P311-0A9DCC4    234-4012  New

Qty:
$27.14
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Downstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 15.35
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1996 - Oldsmobile Bravada V - 262 Downstream
Denso
1994 Oldsmobile 98 Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 3.8L Denso

P311-0A9DCC4    234-4012  New

Qty:
$27.14
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 15.35
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1994 - Oldsmobile 98 V 3800 231 Upstream
Denso
1996 Oldsmobile Bravada Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 4.3L Denso

P311-0A9DCC4    234-4012  New

Qty:
$27.14
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 15.35
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1996 - Oldsmobile Bravada V - 262 Upstream
Denso
1996 Oldsmobile Bravada Oxygen Sensor - Downstream 6 Cyl 4.3L Denso

P311-0A9DCC4    234-4012  New

Qty:
$27.14
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Downstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 15.35
  • O.E. Quality Replacement Sensor
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1996 - Oldsmobile Bravada V - 262 Downstream
Denso
1994 Oldsmobile 98 Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 3.8L Denso

P311-0A9DCC4    234-4012  New

Qty:
$27.14
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 15.35
  • O.E. Quality Replacement Sensor
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1994 - Oldsmobile 98 V 3800 231 Upstream
Denso
1998 Oldsmobile Bravada Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 4.3L Denso

P311-0A9DCC4    234-4012  New

Qty:
$27.14
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 15.35
  • O.E. Quality Replacement Sensor
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1998 - Oldsmobile Bravada V - 262 Upstream

Latest Oldsmobile Repair and Oxygen Sensor Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Car Shakes badly!!

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From devinvogel09 on Car Shakes badly!!

Hi, I have a 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais with a 2.3L 4 cyclinder and about 64,000 miles. about a month ago the car started shaking really bad and had no acceleration. And then i was driving and it started shaking really bad so i slowed down and then it just shut of. So i ran the codes and it said it was the OXYGEN SENSOR. So i replaced that and it still shakes. So then someone told be to replace all the spark plugs cause maybe it was miss firing so i did that . But today it started shaking and had no accleration and shut off completly again. I have no idea what is the matter. PLEASE HELP!!!!!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

devin; Pull codes again and post them here. The 2.3's have a problem with the coil cover, which is the large cover that you remove to gain access to the spark plugs. But, don't want to jump to that conclusion without some diagnosing. Could also be an injector problem, or just about anything, at this point.

Shaking and No Accleration!!!

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From devinvogel09 on Shaking and No Accleration!!!

Hi, I have a 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais with a 2.3L 4 cyclinder and about 64,000 miles. about a month ago the car started shaking really bad and had no acceleration. And then i was driving and it started shaking really bad so i slowed down and then it just shut of. So i ran the codes and it said it was the OXYGEN SENSOR. So i replaced that and it still shakes. So then someone told be to replace all the spark plugs cause maybe it was miss firing so i did that . But today it started shaking and had no acceleration and shut off completly again. I have no idea what is the matter. PLEASE HELP!!!!!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

What code did you get when you scanned it? How did the spark plugs look when you replaced them? When you get a trouble code, all that tells you is that there is a problem in that particular area, not that the actual part is bad. Double check your firing order to make sure you don't have a couple of plug wires crossed. Doubt it, but worth a check. I know I'm jumping to conclusions here, but it sounds like it may be over fueling.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Ok: A 4 cyl missing on one will feel like 1/2 and run like crap of course. It may be random or picking on one cylinder. Can you tell? Do you recall what the plugs looked like that came out and if one was different or all about the same?

If you think it's just one you'll feel it at the tailpipe as a single putt if it will stay idling long enough to check. Random feels random at the pipe also - simple low tech way to tell.

I will help a lot to be quick to diagnose and fix this asap to prevent damage or further damage to o2 sensors or converter.

If you think it's just one try cancelling plugs one at a time by pulling plug wire and grounding it. THE one if only one won't change the character so work on that.

You didn't mention wires (plug) which should be replaced by now also and could be the whole issue.

See what more you can nail down for a diag and let's go from there,


T

1988 ciera 3.3L V6, stalls,runs hard and hot

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From carproblem247 on 1988 ciera 3.3L V6, stalls,runs hard and hot

I have a 1988 Oldsmobile Ciera 3.3 V6 with 90,000 that I have had for 3months, about 2weeks ago on the way home it loss power, and it sound like the engine was louder or a hole in the muffler, then by the time I got close to home it stalled then i couldnt start it, I let it sit for hour and it started i got about 2 miles and it stalled again...so i left it and come back the next day it took like 3mins to get it to start but i got it home....now if i try to start it its very hard some times to start and i have to give it gas to keep it running or it will stall. i cant get it going for 30mins-hours but it will start again" it has A knocking/clicking sound at the back of the engine, it still has a power loss and it gets kinda HOT. Ive drove it 30feet in 2weeks what do i need? PLEASE HELP!!! it also sounds like a gun shot some times when i try to start it, and it sounds like a bubbley noise from the engine I think.

Response From Sidom

Best thing to do when it won't start is to find out what you are missing. Fuel or spark? That will help narrow things down...

On this car after hearing what you said I think I might take a quick look at the exhaust system.... Also most sounds like a restricted exhaust problem.... After it's warm hook up a vacuum gauge & see what the reading is @ idle & then high rpms.... If the reading is low @ idle & goes to almost zero at high rpms you may have a restricted exhaust system. Being able to take a back pressure reading would confirm it. If not you can run it until it dies & then pop out an O2 or take the pipe loose from the exhaust manifold to see if it will start back up (yea I know everything is hot but no way around that)........

Response From carproblem247

Thanks for your help so far" well this week I found one problem to be the air filter, it was really really bad plus weeds and a dead mouse in it...i know thats pretty bad! well after changing it the car starts up alittle better... i was even about to take it to the store, but if it warms up it will not start for hr the fan does work though. now when I drive the car it feels like its not getting fuel or something doesn't have any pull, it does not go real fast, it takes time to get it up to 15mph to 25mph it fells like to wants to stall and if i push on the gas to far it will stall out but will start up aslong as its not warm. All the spark plugs are sparking, and i think the catalytic converter may be clogged, the bolts are rusted and i cant get them off, so i will be putting a few drill holes in it to find out if that is one of the problems!...I took off the start of the pipe right after the exhaust manifold not sure of its name, the pipe that connects the the front 3 to the back 3 and goes to the catalytic, there are 6 pipes that come from the engine the front 3 and the back 3. the back 3 that still was connected kinda to the catalytic converter had the open end though that had black smoke coming out of the pipe, The front 3 showed no smoke from its end that was opened" this means what??? I'll try the vacuum gauge also

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

carproblem; The 'black smoke' is indicative of overfueling, which will destroy a catalytic converter. The saying is "Catalytic Converters don't die, they are murdered". Try removing an oxygen sensor before you start drilling holes. It will be noisy, but if your power comes back, you can be pretty sure it's a plugged cat. The vacuum test is another good indicator. The vacuum at 2500 rpm should be as great or greater than the reading at idle. But.....you need to address what caused the cat to go bad, in the first place, or you'll murder the new one...if that's the problem.

1993 olds cutlass ciera s won't start and stalls

Showing 3 out of 31 Posts | Show 28 Hidden Posts
Question From rose701 on 1993 olds cutlass ciera s won't start and stalls

1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera S-
About 6 months ago I took a short drive (less than 5 miles) - parked the car and 40 minutes later it would crank but not start. That first time I returned to the vehicle about 7 hours later and it started right up. This has happened repeatedly in the last 6 months. It was completely random and the short drive theory went out the window when it would happen after a long drive. I determined that if I waited 15 or 20 minutes that the car would start. I took the car to a local shop and the proprietor told me it could be one of many things - probably a sensor or fuel pump related problem. This after the car started uneventfully all day for him. We decided to just leave it alone and hoped that it was just a fluke and wouldn't happen again.

Four times in the last four days the vehicle just stalled while going down the highway. I pulled over - turned on my flashers - rolled to a stop and the car restarted like there was nothing wrong. Last night the vehicle stalled and would not restart. I waited for a ride and abandoned the vehicle on the roadside. Any theories? The engine is a 3.3 liter (160 hp) V6.



-Thanks, Chris

Response From kenworth_2009

I have a 1993 Olds Cutless Sierra S and I go through the same thing with my car. It is either Oxygen sensor or ECM. Both things can cause your car to stall and shut off. This particular year if you have a v-6 4 door sedan it has two censors on the exhaust system. You can google where it is particularly.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Good grief man - this thread is from 1997 and you expect anyone to read the whole thing first to answer your specific question. Read forum rules and start your own thread with your own specifics please. Thread locked.

T

Response From Guest

actually, if you unplug your torque converter, a outlet plug looking thing that plugs in the the front bottom of your engine, it won't do it again. What happens is your converter locks when it heats up, so it stalls not when you first start, or sit for a while, but after you've warmed up the car, and tried to hit the brake. trust me, it works on all Olds models that do it

Response From Guest

I appreciate your taking the time to view and respond to my post. It was the crankshaft sensor. Since replacement (almost 2 months ago) this Gremlin has been put to rest.

Response From Guest

I just caught it! I've been running the vehicle all day and stopping it for 30 minute to an hour clips to see if it would restart. Wala! No start. No spark. I put a jumper clip across coil and held it with insulated glove. Do you think I should replace ignition module? Is it possible that it's anything else? -Chris

Response From rose701

just to add. While I was standing there. Spark came back and car started.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You might want to start a new thread on just where you are with this right now,

T

Response From rose701 Top Rated Answer

I apologize for typing these little blurbs that probably did more to confuse than explain. I was just trying to keep you all in the mix and realized that what I was typing didn't really make sense - as your not here to see what's happening. My mechanic was unable to spend too much time with the vehicle prior to the Thanksgiving holiday. I decided to take the care home and try to repair it myself.
I first drove and then idled the car in driveway for several hours - intermittently shutting it down - and re-starting it 20 to 40 minutes later as would be the scenario prior to either the 'won't start' or stalling scenario.
Armed with your advice I listened for the fuel pump to energize. At some point during the day the vehicle would not restart. I pulled one of the plug wires and tested it for spark. There was none. I replaced coil wire - got back in the car and car started. I pulled coil wire again just to make sure I had good spark and that I was doing it correctly. Shut the vehicle down - attempted to restart and no spark again. Won't start - started - won't start all within the time frame of 10 minutes.
At some point during the day while vehicle was idling in driveway - I got a 'service engine soon' light on dash. I drove to auto zone and they hooked up computer. Code was 44 -Oxygen sensor (lean). Keep in mind this was before vehicle wouldn't start in driveway and I discovered the loss of spark.

Guy at auto zone printed out likely culprits. 02 sensor (NOT likely in failure to start scenario) Mass air flow sensor (also NOT likely in failure to start scenario) Ignition Control Module (most likely) given the random nature of the 'no start' and stalling scenarios.

Please let me know what you think. I never would have gotten this far without all your help. Should I replace ICM? Any idea where it is on my vehicle ('93 olds, 3300 V6)? The best I could come up with online was that it was located below the coil. This car has coil packs (3). Is it beneath them? Regards, Chris

FYI - Fuel pump never faultered. Energizing even when there was no spark.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I agree that the ignition control module is most likely. It stinks because the thing is expensive and I'm not sure how it could be tested to be sure it's the problem as it does seem to be intermittent. Quite a while ago I had a car that just wouldn't run (no spark) when below about exactly 20F for 8 full hours but would be fine if started for just a few minutes at four hours like at a lunch break and could go indefinately if garaged. Never could test it out and did replace that ICM and in that one it didn't work. I'll never know with that car as it was traded for a new car the next day after a year of this nonsense when it would just plain work properly at all temps above 20F. Who knows and I don't know if that helps you decide on what to do. That was the module under the coil packs on an 88 Buick Park Ave 3.8 engine,

T

Response From rose701

Hi Tom,
I purchased and installed an ignition control module. Let me cut to the chase. Drove until engine was hot. Stopped at my neighbors to let him
know I thought the problem was fixed and I'd be returning his borrowed car. Got into car and it wouldn't start. Just the same as before. Do you
think I should replace the coil blocks (3)? Thanks, Chris

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Are these separate coil blocks with separate wiring? I can recall just replacing on of three in some of these. In those cases the others kept working and engine was undrivable but it reacted. If you get nothing from any there has to be a common cause likely and not three failures at once. This is like playing black jack when you are counting cards to beat the odds and I hate being wrong but I just don't know how to advise much more on this one. Is anything even looking screwey with wiring connections to these items? Worth a check,

T

Response From rose701

I did check the viability of the wires. They appear healthy. Is it possible the the computer is faulty? I'm inclined to replace the 3 coil blocks and if problem persists - replacing computer. I have noticed that when the car is running I'm getting an acrid (lean) smelling exhaust. I wonder how this might tie into the 'check engine soon' light and the code that came up low O2? It's conceivable that this is part of the original problem or a new one I guess. -frustrated but very much appreciative of yours and everyone elses input. Thanks, Chris

Response From rose701

Yes they are separate blocks each going to 2 plugs.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm at a loss here. They really shouldn't all be bad. They did have to come off to do the module - right. Was there a common wire for each to share? I just can't remember. Looked for the old one that I saved that didn't solve a problem and must have given it away as that was many years ago. Coils that did give me trouble just showed arcing at the towers so diagnosis was easy.

The o2 code really shouldn't be the cause of this at the moment but is probably just sensing the lack of burned gasses goin by it/them at the moment.

A wild shot to try if you want: Unplug the neg battery cable for a few minutes and see if something resets?? Sorry - I'm as frustrated as you are right now. I feel like that guy on the old Airplane movie that said things like " I picked a great day to give up drinking"

T

Response From rose701


Response From Guest

I have the '92 with the same problem. I changed the ICM and the car starts fine, however there is an intermittent misfire now when driving down the road. Perhaps I fouled a plug when the ICM went bad, think I'll change them next.

Response From rose701

Thanks for your input. I installed a new ICM yesterday. Problem still persists. Several of the kind people at this site have suggested the
crankshaft position sensor. I'm going there next . I'll let you know.
-Chris

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I think that's a good bet or the possibility of a common power fault to other stuff that could just shut the works down. Intermittent really stinks as well you know by now. Mr. way2old is on this as you know as best he can. Consider yourself blessed by one of the sharpest knives on the web!!

This thread is all over the place and I'm not going to try to consolodate it now.

Good luck,

T

Response From rose701

So in a perfect world - given the wiring is not compromised - the only things that control the spark are the ICM and the 3 coil blocks? Does the vehicle CPU factor into the equation at all? In other words could a computer problem be sending faulty information to the ICM? -Chris

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Computer could be getting faulty info like from a cam postion sensor/crank sensor and perhaps it thinks the engine isn't turning at all??

AutoZone would show positions and location with perhaps some info on how to tell. I'm alone with you at this point. Wish the others would jump in as you can tell I'm struggling myself as to where to go next with this. A new thread would help once again stating what has already been ruled out,

T

Response From rose701

I finally realize what you meant by starting a new thread. I've just been replying. I'm not very computer savvy and I finally asked my daughter what it meant to start a new thread LOL. So I've done just that and I pray to the automotive God's for intervention. Thanks again for your time and knowledge Tom. Regards, Chris

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Bear with me Chris. I'm not too swift with the damn 'puter sometimes either and I'm a moderator here!?!?

I'll try to move the last two up which will if it works shorten the thread so perhaps someone else will also read the post and make a comment about it. Forgive me if this fails and things are lost. The "PM" system here can get me directly and you can find it by clicking on my name above the kitty then lower right corner is the spot to click for sending a private message. Let's hope this works,

T

Response From rose701


Does anyone know where to find the ignition control module on my '93 olds cutlass ciera. Thanks for all your help. -Chris

Response From Guest

Just an FYI. My mechanic was only able to run the car for a half a day before Thanksgiving holiday. It never stalled or coded. I picked car up yesterday and have been driving and running it all day. This morning 'check engine soon' light came on and I brought vehicle to auto zone where the code came up as 'low oxygen'. I'm still hoping vehicle won't start or stalls so I can listen to see if fuel pump is kicking in.

Response From Guest

I just had the exact same thing happen to me today going to Thanksgiving dinner. I have a 92 Cutlass Ciera with the same motor. Please post if you discover the problem, as mine will be towed into the shop tomorrow morning.

Response From Guest

By the way, my fuel pump did engage and disengage when the key was switched to the run position, and I replaced the fuel filter a couple months back.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This about has to call for just tossing some things out as I don't think it will be known exactly what is wrong until it stays broken down.

It's possible a relay could do this and would be cheaper to start there. In the event there are no codes that might help I would just toss the relay for the fuel pump. Trouble with this type of problem is you really won't know if you hit on the right thing until you have ventured out into the asphault jungle enough times without it recurring to be reasonably sure it's solved.

It's tough to tell sometimes when an intermittent problem like this happens if the problem is fuel or spark related. Try to listen for the buzz of the fuel pump when it's down with just key in run position it should buzz and stop. If nothing is heard take note of that. If it stays buzzing away take note of that too. Ya - it's noisy on the side of the road and hard to hear. Got the T-Shirt on that one!

Start with the cheaper stuff and hope it's just that,

T

Response From Guest

Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me. Regards, Chris

Response From Guest

yeah i just went through the same problem, mine was the fuel pump. Tom's got that one right 4sure

Response From rose701

Thank you all again. Car is still at the shop. I asked my mechanice to change the FP relay if he didn't find anything else. I figured it would be a good starting point as per your advice.

Shaking and No accleration at times!

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From devinvogel09 on Shaking and No accleration at times!

Hi, I have a 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais with a 2.3L 4 cyclinder and about 64,000 miles. about a month ago the car started shaking really bad and had no acceleration. And then i was driving and it started shaking really bad so i slowed down and then it just shut of. So i ran the codes and it said it was the OXYGEN SENSOR. So i replaced that and it still shakes. So then someone told be to replace all the spark plugs cause maybe it was miss firing so i did that . But today it started shaking and had no acceleration and shut off completely again. It doesn't always shake. It seems that about every other time i start the car it shakes and has no acceleration. But if it is shaking and i hammer the gas pedal and sometimes comes out of the shaking and acceleration problem. Could it possibly be some kind of electrical problem?? Timing?? Any input would be very helpful. Please help!!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

Devin; Referencing your nearly identical post of Feb.14th; Have you checked the firing order to make sure that you didn't get a couple of plug wires crossed? You noted that if you 'hammer' the throttle it will sometimes, come out of the shaking and accel problem. If this is the case, the wires are probably correctly connected, but one or more could be bad. Also, could be a coil problem. Also, could be an injector problem. Get the picture? You need to get this diagnosed. You can buy a spark tester and start checking each, individual coil/wire, but the problem is going to have to be there to find it that way. You can buy/borrow/rent an ohmmeter and check resistance in the wires and primary windings in each coil. Or, pay a shop to diagnose it for you. You can still do the repairs yourself, once it is diagnosed. You may want to go back and review the posts and replies from Feb. 14 and Mar. 1.