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Best Selling Genuine Buick Oxygen Sensors

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Delphi
2004 Buick Rainier Oxygen Sensor Delphi

P311-2CEBB7B    W0133-1765605  New

Qty:
$77.07
Delphi Oxygen Sensor
Brand: Delphi
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Vehicle
2004 - Buick Rainier
ACDelco
2008 Buick Enclave Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-464E8DE    W0133-1866265  New

Qty:
$57.92
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2008 - Buick Enclave
ACDelco
2000 Buick Century Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-3368825    W0133-1890597  New

Qty:
$59.55
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2000 - Buick Century
ACDelco
1993 Buick Regal Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-29C6A86    W0133-1917900  New

Qty:
$66.37
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
1993 - Buick Regal
ACDelco
1993 Buick LeSabre Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-29C6A86    W0133-1917900  New

Qty:
$66.37
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with 3 Wire
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
1993 - Buick LeSabre
ACDelco
1997 Buick Century Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-47C893B    W0133-1833385  New

Qty:
$53.69
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
1997 - Buick Century
ACDelco
2004 Buick LeSabre Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-06FEB78    W0133-1956265  New

Qty:
$85.51
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2004 - Buick LeSabre
ACDelco
2004 Buick LeSabre Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-06FEB78    W0133-1956265  New

Qty:
$82.67
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2004 - Buick LeSabre
ACDelco
2005 Buick LaCrosse Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-06FEB78    W0133-1956265  New

Qty:
$85.51
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • Except California Emission System
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2005 - Buick LaCrosse
ACDelco
2005 Buick LaCrosse Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-06FEB78    W0133-1956265  New

Qty:
$82.67
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Except California Emission System
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
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Vehicle
2005 - Buick LaCrosse
ACDelco
2007 Buick LaCrosse Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-06FEB78    W0133-1956265  New

Qty:
$85.51
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • Except California Emission Sytem
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2007 - Buick LaCrosse
ACDelco
2007 Buick LaCrosse Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-06FEB78    W0133-1956265  New

Qty:
$82.67
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Except California Emission Sytem
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Buick LaCrosse
ACDelco
2008 Buick LaCrosse Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-06FEB78    W0133-1956265  New

Qty:
$85.51
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • Except California Emisssion System
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Buick LaCrosse
ACDelco
2008 Buick LaCrosse Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-06FEB78    W0133-1956265  New

Qty:
$82.67
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Except California Emisssion System
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Buick LaCrosse
ACDelco
2005 Buick Allure Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-06FEB78    W0133-1956265  New

Qty:
$85.51
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • with Federal Emissions (RPO NT7)
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2005 - Buick Allure
ACDelco
2005 Buick Allure Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-06FEB78    W0133-1956265  New

Qty:
$82.67
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • with Federal Emissions (RPO NT7)
Brand: ACDelco
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Buick Allure
ACDelco
1982 Buick Century Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-09746F9    W0133-1814238  New

Qty:
$20.64
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1982 - Buick Century
ACDelco
1982 Buick Century Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-09746F9    W0133-1814238  New

Qty:
$23.43
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1982 - Buick Century
ACDelco
1993 Buick Regal Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-09746F9    W0133-1814238  New

Qty:
$20.64
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Except California Emission System
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Buick Regal
ACDelco
1993 Buick Regal Oxygen Sensor ACDelco

P311-09746F9    W0133-1814238  New

Qty:
$23.43
ACDelco Oxygen Sensor
  • Except California Emission System
Brand: ACDelco
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Buick Regal

Latest Buick Repair and Oxygen Sensor Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2000 Buick LaSabre misfiring

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From v.pack on 2000 Buick LaSabre misfiring

2000 Buick LaSabra 121K miles, 3800 series motor, codes 0300 misfire and 0131 oxygen sensor. Have replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, pcv valve and map sensor and fuel filter. Starts fine runs fine until gets up to 55 mi. an hour and starts pulling a hill then it starts jerking, missing, in and out of overdrive, rpm go up to 3 or 4K has no power, let up off gas it jerks forward then slows down and rpm goes up then it jerks forward will just keep going like that. Can get on secondary crooked roads up and down hills around curves running 45 to 35 miles and hour and it will run fine but soon as hit main roads and speed up and start up a hill it starts back up and once it starts up it won't quit until car is parked for a while. Transmission shifts fine, no odor to fluid before having transmission fluid and filter changed, just changed. Have checked for vacuum leak with start up fluid and could not find anything. Can't figure out what is wrong it car.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

Oxygen sensor can make any car run like this. Since it pulled a code, it should've been changed. I believe this car has 4 of them, so the code should tell which one is the trouble.

1997 buick lesabre 3.8 surges

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From jstockburger on 1997 buick lesabre 3.8 surges

Im having a problem with what feels like surges in my lasabre. When i drive at highway speeds and the engine is warmed up it tends to feel like my engine is surging. It seems like a very common problem with these cars, but I cant find a definite answer to fix it. I took it in to a couple shops and they all said its hard to pinpoint it because the check engine light isn't on. (they all told me different possible solutions from spark plugs to oxygen sensor to fuel pump to engine coolant temperature sensor and so on.

here are some examples of the almost exact same problem Ive been having:



please help :(


Links deleted. We don't advertise other forums Please post the specifics on your problem here.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

While having a SES light on can help point you in the right direction, it's not a must to check out a car. If you can get the car to act up on a fairly regular basis at consistant set of parameters (speed, load , etc) you should be able to track down the problem. Now if the car won't "do it" when its at the shop, it get way harder, not impossible but in a lot of cases, it would be cheaper for you to bring it back when it's failing regularly...

One thing you can do, if there are some maintentance things you haven't done, now would be a good time to do them (it's something that needs to be done regardless of how the car is running) Plugs, wires, fuel filter, overdue maintenance items that could cause the probem you are having...........

vehicle inspection

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From nightwork on vehicle inspection

1994 buick regal 3.1 liter 124,000 miles has problem passing hydrocarbon part of inspection. 220ppm is acceptable. i am now at 393.ppm. i went to inspection and passed co because i put a new oxygen sensor on. i failed the hc with a 238ppm at this time. i had new plugs put in the platinem kind. went back through inspection and failed with a275ppm. i drove it on the expressway and went back another day it failed with 320ppm. i next changed the thermostat. drove it to ispection left car running in line for about an hour before my turn came failed with 329ppm. went back 2 days later and shut the car off every two cars and starteed up about three cars before my turn for inspection and this time it went up to354ppm. my next step is to buy a cat.converter or egr valve or what running out of money soon. i changed oil and filter and this did not help.

Response From Hammer Time

If you continue just throwing parts at it, then you will run out of money.
HC is unburned fuel so you can put all the Catalytic Converters that you want and it still won't pass. Try a coupls simple things first.

Change the engine oil. It gets raw gas dilution and will cause High HC

Ignition misfire is a common cause so make sure the ignition wires are in real good shape. If they have over 50K on them, then replace them.

Make sure the engine is reaching full operating temp and it has the correct thermostat.

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

All good points Hammer Time.

High levels of hydrocarbons could also be due to a small continual amount of burning engine oil. I’m not talking billowing blue smoke or even a measurable amount of oil missing on the dipstick; but enough oil consumption; that along with the normal amount being produced during combustion; could cause your car to fail.

Allowing your vehicle to run, while waiting for your turn on the machine; is likely one of the worst things to do. As long as the temp gauge is in the normal area and if the test center that is performing the test; are doing it properly; they will (or are suppose too) precondition the vehicle before testing. In other words making sure the engine and converter is up to operating temperature. All the machines I’ve used, give the inspector an option of performing a conditioning cycle as the inspector enters the vehicles information into the machine. This conditioning cycle will run the vehicle up to speed on the dyno for a minute or so to warm things up.

Most any vehicle’s engine (especially 1994 and older models) will begin to load up the exhaust system with emissions due to the low rpm of an idle. The converters will cool off and shut down if idled to long; same goes for the single wire O2 sensors, they will go off line, if the exhaust cools below 450degrees. Once that happens the computer looses its ability of fuel control and will run the engine using a fixed set of values. Likely rich because the computer programming thinks; it has a cold engine to keep running; when in fact it’s only the exhaust system that has cooled. If you still feel the need to keep the engine running; hold the RPM at 1500 rpm plus, just before the inspector gets his hands on your vehicle.

Before you condemn the cat; have it tested by someone that has a gas analyzer. It’s a fairly simple test; drill a 3/16 test port hole in the exhaust pipe in front of the cat (Pre cat). Bring the vehicle up to operating temperature and take a sample of the exhaust gases at the test port. Now plug the test port (self tapping bolt) and take a second gas sample (Post cat) at the tail pipe.
With this math formula; Pre minus Post, divided by Pre, multiplied by 100 will give you the percentage of the converter’s efficiency. Anything below 70% efficient is considered weak and could use replacing.

One last thing; if you’re going to replace the converter; good luck finding an efficient after market replacement. I’ve done a lot of testing on converters and have yet found an aftermarket that was any better then about 75 or 80 % efficient.
An OE converter for this old of a car is pretty expensive; I would suggest a universal converter; the biggest one that you can find, that’ll fit.

The aftermarket converters that are listed and sold as per application; well I believe that it’s not the engineers that decide which goes with what vehicle. It’s the bean counters in the accounting office that decides this. This is just my take on this but; they must look at these converters and say; if this vehicle is running 100% as intended then this much of a converter or converter contents (Platinum Rhodium and Palladium) will do. Where are we ever going to have a piece of machinery that will run 100%, 100% of the time????
The vehicle manufacturers knows that it can’t or doen't happen; look at the size of converters they install at the factory. They are usually twice the size of the aftermarket.

Sorry for the ramble; but I still left out a lot of points I was trying to make.
Good thing EH!!!!!!! LOL


Dan.

Security issue on 1998 Buick Skylark

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From ESG927 on Security issue on 1998 Buick Skylark

Hi! I hope I can give enough info here that someone can recognize the problem and help solve this problem.

1998 Buick Skylark, 3.3L V6, with somewhere around 236,000 miles on it.

The car sat for several weeks this summer due to some bad brakes that my husband didn't immediately fix. Then the car wouldn't start. Or rather, it'd start, run for a few seconds and die. During a very hot spell, it started and ran so hubby moved it and fixed the brakes. Then it wouldn't start again. He suspected a bad fuel pump....his theory that the temps in the 90s helped build pressure in the fuel tank and that's why it started. The car was pushed back into position and continued to sit for months. Hubby would try to start it at least once a week but with the same start, run for 2 seconds, and die routine.

Recently had the car towed to a garage where our mechanic started looking at it in his spare time. At first, the car's computer would not let the diagnostic machine connect. Then it did or it did after Mechanic got it started with some ether (not sure of how it all went down). Not sure if a code came up, but Mechanic somehow has narrowed it down to a security and/or ignition issue. Back when I was still driving it, I could pull my key out after starting it. Later, hubby's key was the same way. Mechanic replaces one part of ignition and then the whole thing. Mechanic says the fuel pump is fine, adequate pressure.

Car still will not start without ether. But it will start and will run, but cannot be restarted. Mechanic has run through a series of events to supposedly reset the security issue. He says this has worked on other GM cars but it won't on this one.

I believe hubby charged the battery after it sat during the summer. Perhaps this somehow contributed to the problem?

Obviously I don't want to invest a lot of money into this old thing; I gave it up years ago but my construction-worker husband likes it as a work car. Our mechanic only is charging us for 1/2hr labor and the ignition parts so far. Mechanic rides a dirt bike (as do we) and we have a private motocross track. Yeah, it works out well, lol. This is more of a I'm-gonna-figure-this-out-if-it-kills-me type of deal for him, lol. And it's not a high priority -- he and his guy just work on it when they're slow in the shop.

Any advice or suggestions?

Response From Hammer Time

Do you have a security light on or flashing when you try to start it?

Response From ESG927 Top Rated Answer

Hubby says the dashboard has a short in it, so either all the lights are on or none -- BUT, prior to the recent problem, the car ran just fine with the dashboard light problem. So, the answer is, we don't exactly know, but the Mechanic is almost 100% sure it's a security issue since the fuel injectors are shut down after 2 seconds. If you give it ether to keep it running, a few seconds later it overrides the system and stays running. But won't restart again (without ether again).

Hubby adds that it has a new throttle position sensor (this has been replaced at least twice before in its lifetime).

Probably unrelated, but the Check Engine/Service Engine Soon light has been on for years (when the dashboard works, lol) because it kept burning up both oxygens sensors, one of which is expensive. After replacing them both a few times (and the catalytic converter once), I got tired of it, and just let it go. It never seemed to affect the performance significantly. We don't have emissions testing so the Light was not a big deal.

Thanks for any help.

Response From Hammer Time

And you're surprised that you have an engine performance problem?

Response From ESG927

nope. not surprised in the slightest. Thanks.

1995 Buick Park Ave Ultra problems

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 1995 Buick Park Ave Ultra problems

Car battery runs down when parked for more than a day & no lights have been left on.

Response From jayeffel

When the car is running, take it to an Auto Zone (or other auto parts store) and ask for the free battery and alternator checks. Auto Zone can do it with battery and alternator in vehicle as can most service stations. Batteries need to supply power to parts other than starter lights. etc. Any radio with programmable stations and/or digital clock will use up power.

Response From Guest

We've done all this. This problem still occurs with a new battery & with battery & alternator showing to be working properly.

Response From flgmtech1 Top Rated Answer

Tom is absolutely correct. What you are experiencing is called a parasitic drain. The parasite is what ever component is staying powered up and draining your battery.
The 1995 Buick Park Avenue has RAP Retained Accessory Power (RAP) Circuit Description
The retained accessory power (RAP) system allows the following components to operate for approximately 10 minutes after the ignition switch is turned off: • The radio • The power windows • The sunroof (if equipped) • The cellular telephone (if equipped)
When the ignition switch is turned to the ACCY or the RUN position, voltage is applied from the IP junction block WSW/RFA fuse to the remote function actuator (RFA) module. When the RFA module grounds terminal 86 of the RAP relay, the RAP relay energizes and supplies power to the RDO/PH fuse and the SUNRF fuse (if equipped).
When the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position, the voltage from the IP junction block WSW/RFA fuse to the RFA module is removed. The RFA module continues to ground terminal 86 of the RAP relay for 10 minutes or until any passenger compartment door is opened. The RFA module receives the passenger compartment door status from the driver door module (DDM) through the class 2 serial data line. When either event occurs, power is removed from the rear junction block RDO/PH fuse and the rear junction block SUNRF fuse (if equipped).
This does not mean that something is awake that is not on the RAP circuit. I have had OnStar modules stay awake and take down the battery. It is imperative to take out the fuses one at a time, starting with the Underhood bussed electrical center
here is a list ofm what those fuses power up, start here, if one of these stops the drain let me know which one and I will give a detailed description on the source(s) of that circuit and the best method of approach to resolving this issue.
Fuse/Circuit Breaker
Rating
Description

SBM LCM Fuse 2
10 A
Body Control Module (SBM), Instrument Cluster, Lamp Control Module (LCM), Remote Function Actuator (RFA) Module

T/SIG Fuse 3
10 A
Turn Signal/Hazard Switch

OXY SEN Fuse 4
10 A
Oxygen Sensors

SIR Fuse 5
10 A
Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)

PCM Fuse 6
10 A
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor, Powertrain Control Module (PCM)

A/C CLU Fuse 7
10 A
A/C Clutch Relay, Boost Control Solenoid

IGNFD Fuse 8
10 A
1-2 Shift Solenoid (1-2 SS) Valve, 2-3 Shift Solenoid (2-3 SS) Valve, ABS/TCC Switch, Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) Purge Valve, Torque Converter Clutch (TCC PWM SOL) Valve

HORN Fuse 9
30 A
Horn Relay

INJR Fuse 12
10 A
Fuel Injectors

C3I Fuse 13
10 A
Ignition Control Module

HDHIBMR Fuse 14
10 A
Right High Beam Headlamp

HDHIBML Fuse 16
10 A
Left High Beam Headlamp

HDLOBMR Fuse 18
10 A
Right Low Beam Headlamp

HDLOBML Fuse 19
10 A
Left Low Beam Headlamp

STOP Fuse 20
20 A
Stoplamp/BTSI Switch

F/PUMP Fuse 21
20 A
F/PMP Relay

RUN/CRK Fuse 22
15 A
Ignition Switch

PCM Fuse 23
10 A
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), PASS-Key® III Module

LP PK Fuse 24
25 A
B/U LP Fuse (10A), Perim LP Relay

HZDT/SG Fuse 25
15 A
Turn Signal Flasher

IGN Relay 28
--
A/C CLU Fuse (10 A), C3I Fuse (10 A), IGNFD Fuse (10 A), INJR Fuse (10 A), OXY SEN Fuse (10 A), PCM Fuse (10 A), SBM LCM Fuse (10 A), SIR Fuse (10 A), T/SIG Fuse (10 A)

HORN Relay 29
--
Horns

COOLFAN 1 Relay 30
--
Left Engine Cooling Fan Motor

STARTER Relay 31
--
Starter Solenoid

COOLFAN S/P Relay 33
--
Left/Right Engine Cooling Fan Motor

COOLFAN 2 Relay 34
--
Right Engine Cooling Fan Relay

A/C CLU Relay 35
--
A/C Clutch

F/PMP Relay 36
--
Fuel Pump

BATT 1 Fuse 37
60 A
C/LTR Fuse (15 A), CD/PH Fuse (10 A), CSTR/SBM Fuse (10 A), DDM Fuse (10 A), HTDST L Fuse (10 A), PDM Fuse (10 A), RDM Fuse (10 A), RDO Fuse (10 A), SBD Fuse (10 A), TRK REL Fuse (15 A)

BLO MOT Fuse 38
30 A
Blower Control Module

COOL FAN 1 Fuse 39
30 A
Cooling Fan Relay 1

HDLP Fuse 40
30 A
Lamp Control Module (LCM)

BATT 2 Fuse 41
60 A
C/LTRL Fuse (15 A), C/LTRR Fuse (15 A), ELC Circuit Breaker (30 A), HTDST R Fuse (10 A), MEM/RFA Fuse (10 A), PWR Seat Circuit Breaker (25 A)

IGN Fuse 42
40 A
ACCY Relay, IGN 3 Relay, RUN Fuse (10 A)

STARTER Fuse 43
30 A
Starter Relay

COOL FAN 2 Fuse 44
30 A
Cooling Fan Relay 2

Response From flgmtech1

here is a picture of the underhood bussed electrical center cover
This goes with the numbered fuse descritpion listed in my first reply

Response From Tom Greenleaf

In a whole day even a trunk, hood or glovebox light could take down a battery. With battery known charged and good and alt also, you can isolate which circuit is causing an excessive drain by a time tested method just unhooking neg battery cable and hooking up a test light between cable and neg battery post. With hood light if on disconnected you can remove fuses one at a time till test light goes out to find which circuit. You'll need to be creative to pull fuses without interior lights involved by testing that separately as opening a door would light up the test light.

That find the circuit involved then the chase is narrowed down.

The common toubles are ---- trunk/cargo light(s), glovebox, hood light, any map lights for interior or possible vanity mirrors that can light up when opened and don't shut off and go un-noticed - things like that,

T