Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Oxygen Sensor

Choose a Year for your BMW 's Oxygen Sensor

  • 2016
  • 2015
  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
  • 1992
  • 1991
  • 1990
  • 1989
  • 1988
  • 1987
  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982
  • 1981
  • 1980
  • 1979
Show More Years

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Bosch
    Bosch
  • Delphi
    Delphi
  • Denso
    Denso
  • NGK
    NGK
  • Spectra
    Spectra
  • Standard Ignition
    Standard Ignition
  • Walker
    Walker

Best Selling Genuine Bmw Oxygen Sensors

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Bosch, Delphi, Denso
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Bmw Replacement Oxygen Sensor Parts

We stock Oxygen Sensor parts for most Bmw models, including 318i, 318is, 318ti, 320i, 323Ci, 323i, 325Ci, 325i, 325is, 325xi, 328i, 328i xDrive, 328is, 328xi, 330Ci, 330i, 330xi, 335d, 335i, 335xi, 525i, 525xi, 528i, 528xi, 530i, 530xi, 535i, 535i xDrive, 540i, 545i, 550i, 635CSi, 645Ci, 650i, 735i, 740i, 740iL, 745Li, 745i, 750Li, 750i, 750iL, M3, M5, M6, X3, X5, Z3, Z4.

Bosch
2009 BMW 750i Oxygen Sensor Bosch

P311-37D0964    New

Qty:
$128.83
Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • Before Catalyst
  • Regulating Lambda Probe : L = 500mm
Brand: Bosch
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - BMW 750i
Bosch
2015 BMW 650i Oxygen Sensor Bosch

P311-37D0964    New

Qty:
$128.83
Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • Regulating Lambda Probe : L = 500mm
Brand: Bosch
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2015 - BMW 650i
Delphi
2011 BMW 335i Oxygen Sensor Delphi

P311-5A2EBFE    New

Qty:
$258.17
Delphi Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • After Catalyst
  • Regulating Lambda Probe : 740MM
Brand: Delphi
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - BMW 335i
Delphi
2011 BMW 535i Oxygen Sensor Delphi

P311-5A2EBFE    New

Qty:
$258.17
Delphi Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • After Catalyst : Lambda Monitor Sensor : 740mm
  • Regulating Lambda Probe : 740MM
Brand: Delphi
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - BMW 535i
Delphi
2013 BMW 335i xDrive Oxygen Sensor Delphi

P311-5A2EBFE    New

Qty:
$258.17
Delphi Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Regulating Lambda Probe : 740MM
Brand: Delphi
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - BMW 335i xDrive
Delphi
2015 BMW 740i Oxygen Sensor Delphi

P311-5A2EBFE    New

Qty:
$258.17
Delphi Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 690mm Harness
  • Regulating Lambda Probe : 740MM
Brand: Delphi
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2015 - BMW 740i
Bosch
2011 BMW 335i Oxygen Sensor Bosch

P311-2D3B03B    New

Qty:
$136.60
Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Before Catalyst
  • Regulating Lambda Probe : 740MM
Brand: Bosch
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - BMW 335i
Bosch
2011 BMW 335i xDrive Oxygen Sensor Bosch

P311-2D3B03B    New

Qty:
$136.60
Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Regulating Lambda Probe : 740MM
Brand: Bosch
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - BMW 335i xDrive
Bosch
2011 BMW 135i Oxygen Sensor Bosch

P311-2D3B03B    New

Qty:
$136.60
Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Before Catalyst : Regulating Lambda Probe : 740mm
  • Regulating Lambda Probe : 740MM
Brand: Bosch
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - BMW 135i
Denso
2000 BMW 323Ci Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 2.5L Denso

P311-413C398    New

Qty:
$48.83
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 13.39
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2000 - BMW 323Ci L 2494 152 Upstream
Denso
1996 BMW 318i Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 4 Cyl 1.9L Denso

P311-413C398    New

Qty:
$48.83
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 13.39
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1996 - BMW 318i L 1895 - Upstream
Denso
2000 BMW 323Ci Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 2.5L Denso

P311-413C398    New

Qty:
$48.83
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 13.39
  • O.E. Quality Replacement Sensor
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2000 - BMW 323Ci L 2494 152 Upstream
Denso
1996 BMW 318i Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 4 Cyl 1.9L Denso

P311-413C398    New

Qty:
$48.83
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 13.39
  • O.E. Quality Replacement Sensor
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1996 - BMW 318i L 1895 - Upstream
Denso
2003 BMW 325Ci Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 2.5L Denso

P311-413C398    New

Qty:
$48.83
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 13.39
  • To 3/03 O.E. Quality Replacement Sensor
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine Designation Position
2003 - BMW 325Ci L 2494 152 M54 Upstream
Denso
1998 BMW Z3 Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 2.8L Denso

P311-413C398    New

Qty:
$48.83
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 13.39
  • From 9/98 O.E. Quality Replacement Sensor
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
1998 - BMW Z3 L 2793 - Upstream
Denso
2000 BMW 323Ci Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 2.5L Denso

P311-413C398    New

Qty:
$48.83
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 13.39
  • O.E. Quality Replacement Sensor 2 Required
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2000 - BMW 323Ci L 2494 152 Upstream
Denso
1999 BMW 323i Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 2.5L Denso

P311-413C398    New

Qty:
$48.83
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 13.39
  • O.E. Quality Replacement Sensor 2 Required Convertible
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Body CC CID Position
1999 - BMW 323i L Convertible 2494 152 Upstream
Denso
2003 BMW 325Ci Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 2.5L Denso

P311-413C398    New

Qty:
$48.83
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 13.39
  • O.E. Quality Replacement Sensor 2 Required To 3/03 M54 Engine; To 3/03
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine Designation Position
2003 - BMW 325Ci L 2494 152 M54 Upstream
Denso
1999 BMW 328i Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 2.8L Denso

P311-413C398    New

Qty:
$48.83
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 13.39
  • O.E. Quality Replacement Sensor 2 Required Sedan
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Body CC CID Position
1999 - BMW 328i L Sedan 2793 - Upstream
Denso
2003 BMW 330Ci Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 3.0L Denso

P311-413C398    New

Qty:
$48.83
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 13.39
  • O.E. Quality Replacement Sensor 2 Required To 3/03 To 03/03
  • OE Style
  • DENSO oxygen sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2003 - BMW 330Ci L 2979 - Upstream

Latest Bmw Repair and Oxygen Sensor Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

NJ Motor Vehicle inspection follow up....

Showing 3 out of 12 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From carminejg3 on NJ Motor Vehicle inspection follow up....

Well I replaced the brake light, and had the window clip fixed as well as the front struts replaced. ($700 for both struts, some sleeve and a little weight looking thing that protects the strut from a sudden upward motion)

But as we may have guessed I still failed the emissions test results:
My emissions test results below:

Gas Standard Reading
NOx 970 1624 Failed
HC 128 148 Failed
CO% .71 .49 Pass
CO2% 14.4
O2% 0.4


Before I failed with a NOx reading of 1970 and a HC reading of 179

I changed the spark plugs, and air filter as well as went back to running 93 octane gas (like I'm suppose to be) see note at bottom.

So What do you guys think I should change next? The Oxygen Sensor (o2).... I changed this the last time and the car did pass...
I'm wondering if changing the gas octane could ruin an o2 sensor, or could my car be doing something that is burning out the oxygen sensor?

Any suggestions would be great!!




Gasoline NOTE: Run what the car Manufactors suggest.... It goes WAY beyond the price... 87 octane burns a lot faster, then 93 Octane and your car is designed to fire at a certain point, so the other octane will make it fire early or late....

Funny to note by changing back to 93 octane gasoline..... I gained another 30 mphs....

Response From TekDiva


I joined the site to make this post! LOL. Looks like a great forum though...

Do you know that, in NJ, if you have spent $450 trying to repair the failed emissions you can ask for a special waiver? You need to bring the original invoices and they must be from a liscensed EMF. It's good for 2 years and can be re-issued if applicable.

Hope that helps...

TekDiva

Response From carminejg3

Thanks a lot.

I think this site makes you register to help keep it clean, besides it was fairly simply to register right.

I actually just bought another o2 sensor since I had High NOx and HC.

That back fired on me.

The NOx and HC went up from.

Gas Standard Reading
NOx 970 1624 Failed
HC 128 148 Failed

to:
Gas Standard Reading
NOx 970 2150 Failed
128 250 Failed

Now I'm thinking is it my catalytic converter again (2 years old) or is my car just a piece of crap lol.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I wish I knew more about the emmisions systems. The octane of fuel shouldn't matter if the car was designed for 87 octane. Have one of my own that fails by the slightest amount of Nox, and I put in a new EGR and things that should help and it tested worse by a smidge. It's a 1989 Town Car and this state still want's it to blow fresh air and it wasn't even designed for that so I'm ticked. That car now has 209,000 miles and is rusting badly so it's now on its last sticker.

Your converter should last longer than two years but if it's been taxed too much it could have given up.

If this car runs well it should be just some stupid problem like intake vacuum or any vacuum leaks. Take it out safely for a good beating -- meaning foot to the floor several times especially if the normal driving is just poking around as mine are.

Your #s are pretty high so there is something wrong and it is costing you fuel economy too.

I've heard isopropyl dry gas can help some but probably not as much as you need.

You can test for vacuum leaks with brakecleaner or carb/throttle body cleaner but some if flammable and on a hot engine a bit dangerous so if you try that have a real ABC fire extinguisher handy as some of these can flash with a hot engine. Engine idle should not change when using this trick on a vacuum suspect leak. Use sparingly if you try that, T

Response From carminejg3

Latest I changed the O2 Sensor, and my results shot up to

NOx 2254 (need 970)
HC 250 (need 128)

Do I need a new catalytic converter? Or what does an ERG system control and how could you check it out in a 92 325i bmw

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) is there to put a bit of already burned gas back into the intake but only at part throttle. It should be off at idle and off at full throttle. For some reason the tidbit it puts into fresh fuel and air lowers the combustion temp which lowers NOx. A colder engine will have less NOx but have higher HC.

The EGR was never meant to just reburn any unburned fuel as first thought by many.

A new Cat Converter would help but I'm not sure that would be enough.

Do you have a vacuum gauge? If not get one that makes vaccuum with a gauge and a peice of howe and a "T" that fits the hose for some testing.

Manifold vacuum should be about 18Hg at idle and the same without load at about 2,000 or it's indicating an exhaust restiction!

Also -- Is ignition timing correct? That could throw things off too, Just the thoughts du jour, T

Response From carminejg3

Hey Tom,

I recently noticed that once in a while my car is now giving a little backfire, not the loud boom, but you can hear a backfire after stepping on the gas and then coasting with the car still in gear

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What kind of car is this and how many miles? If it uses a timing belt and it's overdue it may have jumped a tooth, T

Response From carminejg3 Top Rated Answer

tom its a 92 bmw 325i... with 215,000 miles.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

?? I guess check the timing and see if it jumps around too much but doubt that for a Beamer and that could mean a worn distributor, T

Response From TekDiva


I really feel for ya ....

I'm just starting down this road right now- trying to save my beloved beater 87 manual trans bronco. I think it will be quite a "trip" ...

Personally, I'm really relieved to know that I'm not "into" the emissions for more than $450. I don't care what the critics say, I just really love this car and really want to save it. Call me a silly mach-a dork!

lol

TekDiva

Response From carminejg3

Yeah I know the feeling.... I already spent 700 on struts, so I'm going to try and replace the catalytic. And see what happens from there.

Or I'll do what everyone else seems to be doing in NJ, registering my car in a different state for cheap insurance and less straight motor vehicle test.

Random stalling and dies; it won't start

Showing 5 out of 7 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From sjw2152 on Random stalling and dies; it won't start


1994 BMW 325 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 170000 miles
----------------------------------------------------------------
My car usually drives well. But randomly it stalls w/ light showing real quick. Sometimes, the engine just dies without any stalling or hesitating while I am still driving i.e. 40m/h without speed changes. Most time, I have to wait to start again. It won't start right away. All the electrical functions still work, even if the engine goes off.

Here are some suspect things. My car has soft-top and got wet last winter due to overflows from top-container. So water overflowed into bottom of the car. At the same time, I found the main power cable and the power cable to computer were damaged. So my mechanic fixed popped section of the cables. Since that, the problems started happening. After I dried my car under sunlight w/blow drier, the problems were gone for a while. About 3 weeks ago, I saw check engine light on. The code said 1221, which was oxygen sensor. And this is a key thing: I was stupid. I sprayed carb cleaner through air mass meter. The check engine light was gone. Everything looked fine. Two days later it stalled and died randomly. Somebody said it would damage the sensor. I went to mechanics, and he said examined values of air mass meter was 8; values should be between 8 and 20. I have changed oxygen sensor. Still no light. Working good for 2 days. The problems popped up again.

I remember the symptoms have been very similar since first happening.
So, could you give me some answers, even clues what is going on my car? I really appreciate your time and advice.

Response From dave284

What kind of damage was done to the power cable with it being wet?..what did you mean by (popped sections)?
It seems that your problems could be related to something else although similar to the first....Is the check engine light on again..or came on then went off? Theres a few things you can check when it happens...like seeing if there is fire at the plugs/do you hear the fuelpump come on?...the answer to these questions helps us to help you.

Response From sjw2152

I think there were rubbing against metal plate, where the cables were curved. So the plastic cover of main power cable was melted about 1 inch, and the cable to computer was blowed up/disconneted. I could smell something burnt and saw a smoke once. The mechanic finally found the broken cables and fixed them by wrapping tapes. Actually we found wet problem later; the hole in the top-container were choked, so water overflowed into the backseat and under the carpet.
The check engine is not on nowadays. The light, which is shown while stalling, instantly disappears. When the engine dies, all electrics are still working. I think we checked fire and battery voltage. I am not sure that fuelpump comes are on. The mechanic said that it would not be fuel problem because no sign shows so far. In fact, my car runs good usually. I do not feel any hesitating or weakness when I accelate from stops. I can say the engine goes off or stalls while I am still driving. Maybe the problems start when motor heats up. And here is one more thing. When I start up the car, the rpm goes up and goes down under 1, like dying, and comes back up.
Is there any possibility that air mass meter causes such problems. I am searching internet whole day to find connections between the problem and suspicious parts. I did not find any significant things yet. Thank you for your time, Dave.

Response From dave284

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/04/fa/92/0900823d8004fa92/repairInfoPages.htm Think your problem lies within the ECM...if the power supply to computer was shorted out..usasally you can expect damage to the computer as well,...these devices can't tolerate any kind of power overloads.I don't think the air mass sensor was damaged by carb cleaner.The ecm (computer) controls the fuel/timing/spark along with the air flow meter...the only way to be sure is have it tested and the troubles read again.The link above will give you some info you might can use,and others here will add to it...so hang in there.LOL.

Response From sjw2152

oaky I changed MAF and did test drive. I don't experience engine died. But my car stalled a little bit with instant check engine light. Do you think it is fuel filter or crankshaft sensor???

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

Thats great,.....fuel filter wouldn't cause the (check engine light) to summit a trouble code.Since you had many problems with this it would be a good idea to have the codes read again and I know its a pain not having a scanner on hand when that dang light comes on.....but it beats replacing sensors that are good.

Response From brbettge

if your computer got wet and stayed so for any length of time along with the wireing there will continue to be problems probably forever. what you have described are what we in the south call "classic flood victim" signs. unfortunately, our advice in this part of the country (and we have had alot of this problem) is to wave goodbye to that old friend of a car and never look back. the devil corrosion has invaded and it is an enemy best surrendered to unless you are prepared to replace the entire electrical system. i'm sorry to have to even write this; and i was always sorry to have to tell my customers this; but after hundreds of attempts to chase the goblin in flood victims i found it much better to just tell my customers the truth - it saved not only feelings but customers. again, sorry, rick

1985 BMW 325e possible electrical starting problem??

Showing 5 out of 22 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw on 1985 BMW 325e possible electrical starting problem??

Okay, so, my 1985 325e BMW has a serious problem and has had serious problems in the past... Here is a list of everything I've replaced:
-both fuel pumps, aux and in-tank
-all spark plugs and wires
-my distributor
-my starting solenoid
-all of my filters
-my obc (on board computer)
-battery
-ignition switch
-timing belt
-oil
-oxygen sensor

And here are other things you might need to know:
I have a spare motorolic control unit that i got from a pick and pull, both in-car and spare work just fine

After, and im NOT joking, about 10 hours of work over two days, I pulled my starter out and got it tested, it worked perfectly... wtf...

So, to my current problem...
I took my car to the movies with my girl, and as i started up i noticed that the car sugged and had difficulty trying to turn, so i figured a dead battery was the culprit, got my boost box out, hooked it up, and the sucker started no problem. In the 325e, the battery is in the trunk, so, I actually, and regrettably
left the booster on the battery and drove it home...

The car has not been the same since... Now, even to start it, I have to have a fully charged battery and a fully charged booster, even then I can hear the shaft rotate once, wait a second, rotate once, and wait until after about 10 seconds the car will start properly turning over and then start. When it starts it runs and idles perfectly fine with no problems until suddenly the engine stalls after about two miles, and then it wont crank even if i would have put a thousand volts through it...

So, I do believe i have an electrical problem somewhere in the car, and I do believe a serious one... the last time I tried to start it the freaking RIGHT SIDE PASSENGER SPEAKER STARTED BUZZING!! no the radio was not on... what the absolute ****, right?

I am literally at my wits end with this car, and I love the thing its my first car and I would love any feedback on what it might be... I'm only 17 so although I've worked on other cars and mine a bunch, my knowledge here is dimmed from my lack of experience... If there is anybody that could help it would be much appreciated Thank you!

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Ive noticed that most responses have to do with clean battery terminals, I have checked the battery connectors, and the terminal clamps, sanded them like crazy, and no joy, everything is the same ordeal...

Response From kev2

remove spark plugs and see if it engine spins at speed , let us know what happens ....

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

I've disconnected the boots, but no joy the car didn't even try... booster applied, car weakly attempted a rotation, put the boots back on, same result... Thanks for the reply, is there any other suggestions? Anything else I might have to do? I've also tried a push start, with no luck...

Response From Hammer Time

Disconnecting the"boots" is not removing the spark plugs.

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Is that safe to do?? sorry it might seem like a stupid question... Is it safe to try a crank with no spark plugs? I've ran out of daylight for today, so Ill try that tomorrow, and post my findings...

Response From Hammer Time

Of course it is safe. You are just removing the compression to see if the engine spins freely.

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Okay, have removed the spark plugs, tried to start it, made a slow awful grinding sound, stopped turning altogether. Put the plugs back in, connected everything, and... nothing new, tries a single slow rotation, cant and dies. Is there anything else it might be?

Response From Hammer Time

What you have just proven is that the engine is seizing. If the starter is good, then the engine is bad. Your bench test was not conclusive that the starter was good though.

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

And also why wouldn't the starter be good? I had it tested at o'reillys auto parts, why wouldn't that be conclusive? Any help would be appreciated

Response From Hammer Time

The test wouldn't be conclusive because it was tested with no load on it and putting a load on it can make all the difference in the world. Just because it can spin when it isn't turning anything doesn't mean it can crank and engine.

Apparently I misunderstood your problem. I thought I read that your car wouldn't crank even with a good battery.

Everything you are saying points to a bad starter.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Agree HT - strong guess on my part is starter is just weak so far and jumps helped but most people don't have good enough jump boxes or cables nor really should unless sure go right to starter and skip the battery out back bull.
That would better prove the starter is NG. 1985! I'd have that starter apart myself (brushes no good likely) also not DIY friendly for most,


T

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Thanks very much for all the feedback guys, I appreciate it! Ill try and scrap together for a new starter and ohm test everything again, and check my grounding points and my amp delivery... Even if its not the starter its still good to put a new one on. that particular starter was used on the e30 starting at '79... who knows how long it sat around before being put in my car? Plus the car has over 300,000 miles on it, its probably due one anyway , I appreciate all the help guys, thanks a bunch. If i can get a new starter and get the car up and running, Ill definitely use this forum for any other repairs or concerns, Ill update again tomorrow night after most of the day with the car... no school, no nothing but us

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I didn't go looking but suspect this starter is quite pricey. If up to it check out some YouTube or similar to see how you take one apart and bet you can still buy just brushes and clean this one up.
That or ask around if someone in your area does starter, alternators etc on site. Perhaps 90% of them will just need brushes, bearing checked and contacts cleaned up, lube areas and make them look new again for sale as rebuilt - you can do that.
Off the wall: The older the electric motor the better they were for the amount of metal and real copper used to the point you could machine them down but just "emory" cloth done well should do.
Brushes are like compressed charcoal brickette looking material things and ride on contacts pushed by spring - get sticky, too shiny or plain worn out. IDK, makes more sense when right there see what it does.
You can test one with a car power battery source on the bench or shop floor and watch them work but there's no load on it but do before putting it in then can know how much power it can do not just turn.
Takes some time. You'd be ticked paying a tech's rate vs whole already done ones except for real new ($$) they really want your old one back - note that!


T

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Sorry I didn't get on yesterday like I promised guys, there was other stuff going on... Thanks for the tip!! I think that if i can hook up the battery and find that the starters at fault, Ill just buy a new one... I say this because the new starter isn't terribly priced: around 70$, and that it would be easier than to rip the old 30+ year starter apart and clean it (which I've never done in my life, and with my luck screw it up), plus then I have no garentee that it will work in the aftermath... It would take longer to rip apart the old one and clean it then to put a fresh new one back in, even if it will save me a couple bucks... Plus its an easier feeling starting up with a new one than a 30+ year old one lol. So, ill post this weekend on my findings, hopefully the starter is the culprit and the moderators can close down a tread they could have worked out in less than a day haha. Thanks for the posts everybody! If there are any other ideas, feel free to leave a comment!! Ill consider anything at this point

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You are right. 70$ for anything on a BMW is just change. I suggest keeping old one (core) for a while if possible at all and maybe try seeing how they come apart and go together as it's so much like other electric motors you may have to someday or get out priced.
It's just hard to explain and I'm not set up for a movie on it.
Good luck with it,


T

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

RESOLVED!!!
So, I got the new started a few weeks back, put it in and... nothing... The car had the same issue as before... So, i pulled my battery out and noticed that the sides were bulging out a little. I went to go get it tested and they put a real load on it and noticed it had possibly a broken or bad cell in it... WOW, this whole time... I guess that booster did some real damage to the battery as it was on for the ride home... I cant believe it was such a stupid easy fix lol, considering it didn't even cost me anything because i had a warranty on it because it is a BRAND NEW BATTERY lol... so, I just posted this to follow up on what had happened.. just maybe to help anybody out there with any similar problems. When I got home and threw the new one on, the car started no problem. I did notice it was backfiring pretty bad so I shut it off, checked my spark plug wire pattern and found i had mixed two... fixed it now and it runs like a dream! Ive learned loads during this problem, and im kinda angry it was such an easy fix. Thank you kindly for everybody that posted and tried to help, I really appreciate it. I will use this blog next time I have any other troubles. Thank you and god bless you if you have this same problem... its a weird thing to deal with and can be a load of problems.

Response From Discretesignals

Glad to read you got it resolved. Thank you for the follow up Thread closed as solved. Can be reopened upon request by the OP.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

First off testing from these type parts outlets prove nothing IMO. You've said it tries to crank just barely now say it idles fine? Now I'm confused enough.
IDK - I totally prefer testing a starter on the engine with that engine with known good power to it. Jumper cables and boxes are not reliable unless you absolutely know cable are up to it and connected where they have to deliver power (AMPS) to a starter.


What's really going on? Have you messed up installing the starter and was the POS cable to it in good shape there?
Pretty sure this runs heavy gauge real copper POS battery cable right to starter and used body for ground and another cable grounding body to engine block. All must be known good.
So if this engine now can run properly however you got it started this is slowly ruling out a tight engine from seizing but could easily test for voltage drops alone both at battery and again what it reads at starter while cranking if it drops below about 9V you have a huge draw, bad battery, cables, connections..........


T

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

lets test another way
leave the plugs out for now... use a breaker bar and socket on crank shaft try to spin engine - its a little engine* no compression should spin over easy...let us know.
you claim starter is good, and you are throwing 500+ amps at that starter yet will not spin a no compression engine.


*@150 cid

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

Im confused then, if it idles perfectly, and runs okay... then how could the engine be bad if the car just has a terrible time trying to crank? is there anything else i can look at or anything else that would make sense to try?

Response From Icewolf 325e '85 bmw

hmm... okay, ill take a wack at it after school tomorrow, thanks man, Im curious at what this will test.