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ACDelco
1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue Engine Mount 6 Cyl 3.8L ACDelco

P311-0335AFF    W0133-1976490  New

Qty:
$165.83
ACDelco Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Oldsmobile Intrigue V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
ACDelco
2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly ACDelco - 88964168

P311-2397520    W0133-2355148  New

Qty:
$292.35
ACDelco Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • 88964168
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Oldsmobile Intrigue
ACDelco
2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly ACDelco - 88964168

P311-2397520    W0133-2355148  New

Qty:
$292.35
ACDelco Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • with Plastic Sensor Wire Clip (2ND Design)
  • 88964168
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Oldsmobile Intrigue
ACDelco
1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue Spark Plug 6 Cyl 3.8L ACDelco

P311-2AC5391    W0133-2043348  New

Qty:
$19.15
ACDelco Spark Plug
  • Professional Rapidfire
  • Rapidfire
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Oldsmobile Intrigue V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
ACDelco
1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue Ignition Coil 6 Cyl 3.8L ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$99.89
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Oldsmobile Intrigue V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
ACDelco
1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue Ignition Coil 6 Cyl 3.8L ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$99.89
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Oldsmobile Intrigue V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
ACDelco
2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue Fuel Filter ACDelco

P311-1FE80BA    W0133-1639997  New

Qty:
$32.92
ACDelco Fuel Filter
  • Professional
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Oldsmobile Intrigue
Eastern Catalytic
1999 Oldsmobile Intrigue Catalytic Converter 6 Cyl 3.8L Eastern Catalytic - UNIVERSAL

P311-4558DAA    99176  New

Qty:
$104.97
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO GM
  • Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 12"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Gm
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.50" Id
    • Overall Length (IN): 16"
    • Shape: Large Oval
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO GM NANO substrate chemistry is designed specifically to meet the emissions challenges of GM's 2.2, 3.1, 3.4, and 3.8L engines. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Oldsmobile Intrigue V 6 Cyl 3.8L 231 3800
Husky Liners
2001 Oldsmobile Intrigue Floor Mat Set - Rear Husky Liners - Heavy Duty Floor Mat

P311-08F4DF7    52021  New

Qty:
$57.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set Rear
  • 2nd Or 3rd Seat Floor Mats
  • Black; 2 pc.; Does Not Cover Hump May Require Trimming For Correct Fit/Trim Guides Molded In Mat
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Rear
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2001 - Oldsmobile Intrigue Rear
Husky Liners
2002 Oldsmobile Intrigue Floor Mat Set - Front Husky Liners - Heavy Duty Floor Mat

P311-5DBD09C    51061  New

Qty:
$70.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set Front
  • Front Floor Mats
  • Black; 2 pc.; Front
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Front
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Oldsmobile Intrigue Front

Showing 1 - 10 of 3,293 Products.


Latest Oldsmobile Intrigue Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

98 oldsmobile intrigue cranks but wont start ran out of fuel

Showing 10 out of 32 Posts | Show 22 Hidden Posts
Question From XOtheJUGGALO on 98 oldsmobile intrigue cranks but wont start ran out of fuel

I have a 1998 Oldsmobile intrigue my mother-n-law ran it out of gas i filled it up wouldnt start... replaced fuelpump,fuelfilter (both new not used)and cleaned fueltank out and put fresh fuel and still nothing replaced fuel pump relay,battery and cleaned battery cables and again nothing car has been sitting in my driveway for 4months now and i got to get it running cant sell it cause it was my father's before he passed... ¡¡¡¡ PLEASE SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Keep battery charged till this chapter is found and fixed.


Do you hear pump prime up at all now? If so check for pressure at fuel rail on engine.


Could be just bad luck but may have fuel and not spark? Try priming throttle body with some fuel or gas, assemble the intake ducts quickly and see if it reacts. Is so it still isn't getting proper fuel delivery and may NOT be the pump but no pulse to injectors or a spark issue to check out.


If no sound from pump see if it gets power. It could be a bad pump? They don't like running dry old or new. Double check your work again too,


T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

I replaced the fuelpump after it was ran dry hasn't started since it ran out of gas replaced the distribiter spark plugs n wires its gettn spark no fuel coming out the fuelrail could it be clogged fuel lines? If so how would i blow them out n ive triple checked my work everything is as needs to be i tryed starting it with starter fluid and gas it backfires runs for 2seconds n dies (dosent always start up even with gas and/or starting fluid)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? It was running fine I guess when it ran out of fuel, right? so why more than the fuel pump now? Well it's been sitting for a few (four) months and you pretty well nailed it that it's lack of fuel if it reacts to starting fluid.


Can you hear the pump? Is it getting power to it thru plug? That stuff not everything you can think of. New sock on pick up I hope and you said you cleaned tank? Why? Was that a problem too or make one now?


Just sitting there isn't doing anything any good now. My guess is the job didn't go properly or a bad pump out of the box so far,


T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

I disconnected the three fuel lines from the motor the one on the back of the fuelrail(closest to the firewall) has plenty of gas coming out of the line. the one connected to the front of the fuelrail (closest to the fuel pressure regular ) has no fuel coming out the line at all same with the line connecting to the Vapor Canister Purge Valve witch also connects to the throttle body also battery has been out of car for a couple months i been reading something about a relearning
 Procedure

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Fuel out of a line isn't conclusive - you need to know the pressure and if injectors are working too.


I think the "re-learn" you are thinking about is it may not idle well right away or for some time as it lost adapting to itself if you will to hold the same idle and other adjustments based on where they are in the perimeters of things. I don't think you have anything to worry about in an 1998 vehicle..........


T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Ill go rent a fuel pressure gauge today but it wont start and its been sitting without a battery so would it still show pressure? And how would i test the injectors is there a way to test them without a noid light? And thanks again for all the help u are giving me i hate to see the car sit

Response From nickwarner

You will need to put a charged battery in this to test pressure. When you turn the key on, the ECM turns on the fuel pump for 2 seconds to prime the system. After that it waits for a signal from the crank sensor to tell it that the engine is cranking.

You will need a noid light to check injector pulse. Don't worry, they are cheap. Parts store that you are renting them from likely even has a set available for rent.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Ok so ive bought brand new battery AGAIN tested fuel pressure heard the pump prime tested the injectors replaced the fuel lines and still nothing cranks but no start already replaced the fuelpump, fuelfilter,fuelpump rely and fuse the crank position sensor,injector fuse,low pressure sensor,sparkplugs n wires even the distributor rechecked fuel pump wires even though i heard it priming everything is A okay but just will not turnover

Response From Hammer Time

You're still not running the tests that you are supposed to.

Just hearing the fuel pump isn't good enough. You have to use a gauge.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

I understand what u are saying but i have already done the sparkplug test,injector test and fuel pressure test all tested as they should.. when u say "these functions can only be tested the failure" do u mean i should run the three test while i have someone tryn to start the car?

Response From Discretesignals

replaced the fuelpump, fuelfilter,fuelpump rely and fuse the crank position sensor,injector fuse,low pressure sensor,sparkplugs n wires even the distributor

You sure your working on a 98 olds intrigue?

Response From Hammer Time

Yeah, I was going to call crap on that one too. I had forgotten seeing that earlier.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Call it as u may that is ur right as an American im not hear to waste ppls time when they're tryn to help others out i was just restating things ive already replaced along with a few newones i have bank statements of everything i have replaced on this car and the tools i have rented to preform the tests so if you or any others think im just here to waste yalls time plz feel free to not reply... now as for the question on am i sure its a 98 Oldsmobile intrigue yes im very sure my farther purchased the car back n 98 i dont have the title was lost n house fire.. ive got the vin# i will email it to u so u can see for urself its a 98 Oldsmobile intrigue "GL" with a factory 3.8 v6 motor (Buick 3.8 v6) with a factory automatic 3.6 transmission anymore questions about the car plz feel free to ask... To the guy who said i need someone to try n start the car while i preform the test thank you Maybe thats why everything tested as it should cuz i would try n start the car over n over then do the test Thank all who have replied to my post you guys are helping me grately srry i dont know much bout these newer front wheel drive car i personal like n only drive old American muscle cars i have a 88 iroc t-top camaro witch i just preformed an LS3 Swap and have a 67 chevelle ss that im in the process of restoring but back to the main topic i will rerun every test while car is being started thanks again to all of u

Response From Hammer Time

Well, if you are sure about the make of the car, then maybe you could explain how you replaced a distributor on a car that doesn't have one.

Ok so ive bought brand new battery AGAIN tested fuel pressure heard the pump prime tested the injectors replaced the fuel lines and still nothing cranks but no start already replaced the fuelpump, fuelfilter,fuelpump rely and fuse the crank position sensor,injector fuse,low pressure sensor,sparkplugs n wires even the distributor rechecked fuel pump wires even though i heard it priming everything is A okay but just will not turnover


What was the fuel pressure?
How did you go about testing fuel injectors?
What's a "low pressure sensor"?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sport - relax - It still needs fuel, spark, compression and on time just like your 67 Chevelle. All things that make a gas engine run are there just done differently.


Fuel pressure is critical to be in spec. 48-55 PSI at the fuel rail with key on engine off and hold for a good while.


Injectors checked with a noid light. Rent or buy whole set for about $25 bucks.


It reacted back at the first couple posts to starting fluid or priming so rule out spark anything till you know why fuel is NOT being delivered which doesn't mean the pump all the time.


Hey - you may have confused a coil pack with a distributor cap. Nothing turns inside those even out of sight.


Again, same basics as your '67 just done differently and fussy about fuel pressure in spec so post results not that you found fuel coming out a line,


T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Thank you for ur help i have a nother question ive asked ppl at antozone looked online a cant find nothing bout this part i cricled it in this picture (picture was taken when i replaced fuelpump ) and there is also a box under the car next to the gastank neck where fuel is added witch has a couple hoses running from it to that part i circled could this be something that is wrong with it all thr cars ive worked on ive never see nothing like this (im trying to upload thr photo at the moment

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Srry it wont let me upload any photos...

Response From Hammer Time

Upload them to Photobucket and they supply a link to make them show up here.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Fuel pressure: 53psi
Sorry ive been workn alot haven't really had time to do nothing..
When i checked the fuel pressure (while car was being cranked) it was at 53 the whole time after stopping cranking the car pressure stayed at 53 for maybe 3 minutes before slowly dropping to 0psi (dont get how im getting fuel pressure when no fuel is reaching the engine... )
As for the injectors have not had time to retest them

Sorry for the repeating post as for i thought my post where not being posted

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Srry guys lost my phone but wanted to thank all of you for ur help ive since got the car running the coilpacks i bought from autozone where faulty after receiving new one its now running again thank all of u

Response From Hammer Time

You're welcome. I'll close this now as solved to keep the spammers out.

Response From nickwarner

This really sounds like a crank position sensor here. Check for spark and injector pulse. It is normal to see a noid light or spark tester flash once when the key is first turned on, but that is just the ecm doing a quick self-check of various circuits. Also, when the key is turned on your fuel pump is turned on for 2 seconds. But if your injectors are not firing it will not dispense fuel while cranking so your pressure won't drop. The ECM doesn't turn the fuel pump back on after the 2 second prime until it gets a signal from the crank sensor showing that the engine is being turned over.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Post the dang fuel pressure! Do injectors light up a noid light and must if it responded so that whatever thing isn't part of the problem quite yet as it doesn't start, phart or anything yet, T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

http://s105.photobucket.com/user/XOtheJUGGALO/media/Mobile%20Uploads/PaperArtist_2014-06-23_12-48-23_zps365d178a.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=0

Have any idea what this part is or what it dose?

The fuel pressure was at 53psi while car was bring started when turned key off stayed 53 for 1 to 2 minutes before slowly dropping to 0 i dont get how it has pressure &no fuel goin to motor... as for injectors couldn't make it to autostore intime before they closed will let u know tomorrow

Response From Hammer Time

That is part of our EVAP system and has no effect on performance.

Response From XOtheJUGGALO

Photo link http://s105.photobucket.com/user/XOtheJUGGALO/media/Mobile%20Uploads/PaperArtist_2014-06-23_12-48-23_zps365d178a.jpeg.html?sort=3&o=0

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m234/XOtheJUGGALO/Mobile%20Uploads/PaperArtist_2014-06-23_12-48-23_zps365d178a.jpeg


Dose this have any major thing to do with the car getting gas to motor or have any idea what it dose


Fuel pressure was at 53psi when car was being started after turning key off pressure stayed at 53 for maybe one to two minutes befor slowly dropping down to zero... i do not get how it has fuel pressure when no fuel is coming to the motor. Will update some time tomorrow bout the injectors autopart store was closed before i got off work n didn't have time to rent them

Response From Hammer Time

That test procedure is pretty self explanatory. It means if your problem is intermittent and only fails to start sometimes, then that is the only time it can be tested.

I don't believe you have performed all of that testing or you would have found your problem.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? What's your question? Of course you test WHILE the problem exists and if it takes a helper to turn the key so be it. Testing things that work properly isn't going to show much that's helpful,


T

Response From XOtheJUGGALO Top Rated Answer

When i put the battery back in do i have to do the relearning process before i try n start it? And is there away to check the crank sensor without having to remove the crankshaft harmonic balancer and the crankshaft position sensor shield ?

Response From Hammer Time

You won't know if it needs a relearn until you tr to tart it. Do relearn only if you get a flashing security light when trying to start it and that's not very likely.

As for the Crank sensor, you would need a lab scope to do ay testing there.

Response From Hammer Time

Have you tested all the fuses in the car using a test light with the key on?

There is always the possibility that this car never ran out of gas in the first place.

98 Oldsmobile Intrigue

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on 98 Oldsmobile Intrigue

I own a 1998 oldsmobile intrigue and have had problems with shifting it out of park. I've been told to check the solenoid cable and my break lights because they may have something to do with it. Well i have checked the break lights and they are working, but I don't know how to take the cover off of my middle console to look for that cable. If anyone knows how i can take the cover off or where i can find the cable at i would really appreciate it. I am a college student and away from home so i really need my car.

Thanks Joe

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

It would be kinda hard to tell you how, I don't have the diagrams. But for a $13.00 investment, autozone should have a repair manual with step by step illustrations.