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ACDelco
1988 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Spark Plug ACDelco

P311-2AC5391    W0133-2043348  New

Qty:
$19.15
ACDelco Spark Plug
  • Professional Rapidfire
  • Rapidfire
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
1988 - Oldsmobile Delta 88 C
ACDelco
1988 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$99.89
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • with Delco Remy Coil
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - Oldsmobile Delta 88
ACDelco
1988 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$99.89
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Professional
  • with Delco Remy Coil
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - Oldsmobile Delta 88
ACDelco
1988 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$99.89
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Professional
  • with Delco Remy Coil
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1988 - Oldsmobile Delta 88
Moog
1976 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Coil Spring Set - Front 8 Cyl 5.7L Moog

P311-4653317    5282  New

3988126 , 3988125 , C8LY-5310A , 1482869 , 586798 , 1482873 , 586787 , 277-1875 , 1357430 , 1600444 , 1385676 , 3988119 , 380122 , SMS5282 , 1600477 , 1482876 , U5282S , 277-1969 , 1493995 , 384099 , 586797 , 1482872 , 1482867 , 92-5282 , 1493996 , 831-5282 , 585-1024 , FCS5282S , 1482877 , 45H0024 , CS5282 , 1482875

Qty:
$136.57
Moog Coil Spring Set  Front
  • Coil Spring Set
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: 100% Load Tested
    • Feature 2: Easy To Install
    • Feature 3: Provides Like-new Steering
    • Feature 4: Designed To Lower Stresses For Longer Service Life
    • Feature 5: Worn Or Sagging Coil Springs Can Cause Premature Tire Wear Due To Vehicle Misalignment
  • MOOG Problem Solver products incorporate proven design and engineering features for like new steering, ease of installation and longer life. MOOG is the preferred steering and suspension brand of professional technicians and NASCAR crew chiefs.
Brand: Moog
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Doors Body Position Block Engine CID CC
1976 - Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale 2 Coupe Front V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Moog
1984 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Coil Spring Set - Front 8 Cyl 5.0L Moog

P311-061EAC4    5376  New

406936 , 9796981 , 92-5376 , CS5376 , 585-1044 , 3984443 , 831-5376 , FCS5376S , 277-1948 , SMS5376 , 9785735 , 277-1829 , 45H0044 , U5376S

Qty:
$95.34
Moog Coil Spring Set  Front
  • Coil Spring Set
  • Product Attributes:
    • Feature 1: 100% Load Tested
    • Feature 2: Easy To Install
    • Feature 3: Provides Like-new Steering
    • Feature 4: Designed To Lower Stresses For Longer Service Life
    • Feature 5: Worn Or Sagging Coil Springs Can Cause Premature Tire Wear Due To Vehicle Misalignment
  • MOOG Problem Solver products incorporate proven design and engineering features for like new steering, ease of installation and longer life. MOOG is the preferred steering and suspension brand of professional technicians and NASCAR crew chiefs.
Brand: Moog
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Brougham LS Front V 8 Cyl 5.0L 307 -
Husky Liners
Qty:
$57.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set  Rear
  • 2nd Or 3rd Seat Floor Mats
  • Black; 2 pc.; Does Not Cover Hump
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Rear
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1969 - Oldsmobile Delta 88 Rear
Husky Liners
Qty:
$70.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set  Front
  • Front Floor Mats
  • Black; 2 pc.; Front
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Front
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Oldsmobile Delta 88 Front
Spectre
Qty:
$38.57
Spectre Engine Valve Cover Set
  • Pair; OEM Style; Three Hole Design; Baffled; Short; Chrome Plated Steel
  • Valve Cover Set
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automotive Item Grade: Oem Standard
    • Color: Chrome
    • Cylinder Head Type: Standard
    • Engine Make/Size: Chevy Small Block (262-400)
    • Finish: Chrome
    • Item Height: 3.000 In. (76mm)
    • Item Weight: 4.700 Lbs. (2.1 Kg)
    • Length: 19.750 In. (502mm)
    • Material: Steel
    • Oil Filler Cap Included: No
    • Package Contents: 2 Valve Covers
    • Package Material: Plastic Other
    • Package Quantity: 2
    • Package Type: Blisterpack
    • Prop 65 (C, R or CR): Cr
    • Prop 65 Warning Label: Https://www.knfilters.com/images/l/prop65.jpg
    • Title: Spectre Spe-5258 Valve Cover Set
    • Valve Cover Style: Standard
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Width: 5.000 In. (127mm)
  • Available in various sizes, heights, and finishes, Spectre offers a wide variety of high performance valve covers designed to easily replace your stock covers. Designed for 1958-1986 Chevrolet Small Block 265-400 engines, this 3-hole valve cover features chrome-plated steel construction and a smooth design. Sold in pairs, this stock profile cover is baffled to provide optimum function. With show quality construction and a sealing edge designed for an ideal fit, our valve covers are engineered to look great for applications ranging from custom builds to replacing stock equipment.
Brand: Spectre
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1973 - Oldsmobile Delta 88 M V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Spectre
Qty:
$78.21
Spectre Engine Dress Up Kit
  • Includes 2 Baffled Valve Covers/8 T-Bolt Hold Downs/1 PCV Breather/1 Vent Breather/Oil Cap/12 in. Braided PCV Breather Hose/Hardware; Chrome Finish
  • Engine Dress Up Kit
  • Product Attributes:
    • Housing Included: No
    • Item Weight: 7.200 Lbs. (3.3 Kg)
    • Oil Filler Cap Included: Yes
    • Package Contents: 2 Baffled Covers, 8 T-bar Bolts, 1 Pcv Breather, 1 Vent Breather, 1 Oil Cap, 2 G
    • Package Material: Plastic Other
    • Package Type: Blisterpack
    • Prop 65 (C, R or CR): Cr
    • Prop 65 Warning Label: Https://www.knfilters.com/images/l/prop65.jpg
    • Title: Spectre Spe-54083 Engine Dress Up Kit
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • Spectre's Engine Dress-Up Kit was designed for the '58-'86 Chevrolet small block 265-400. This kit includes: stock height baffled covers, chrome T-bar hold downs, chrome PCV breather, chrome breather, chrome oil filler cap, grommets, and a stainless steel braided PCV hose with red/blue Magna-Clamps. Designed for use with OE specifications for fit and function, Spectre products are engineered to perform as good as they look.
Brand: Spectre
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1977 - Oldsmobile Delta 88 V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -

Showing 1 - 10 of 11,467 Products.


Latest Oldsmobile Delta 88 Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1984 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Eating Fuel

Showing 11 out of 19 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From Wizardsnapper on 1984 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Eating Fuel

Hello all... This is my first post here. My mother has a 1984 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Brougham 5.7 V8 Carb. She bought the car a little over a year ago for $800.00. Since then has has done all the regular Tune-Ups and Oil Changes. She has had the Carb adjusted on it at lest 6 times on it. That and the Timing set has never been replaced. She will go through 2 tanks of gas in a week just driving around the neighborhood shopping. She cant keep affording this. Is there any way to fix the Fuel issue without spending a lot of money, she lives on a disability check. If not I can help pay for the repairs. But please list in detail what has to be done to it and what parts are needed for it.

Thanks in advance for all the help.

Response From Hammer Time

You have a 26 year old car with a carburetor. You can't make robots out of dinosaurs.

First off, the timing should never have to be touched once it's set correctly and the same goes for the carb. The only adjustment is for idle mixture anyways which will have nothing to do with your mileage problem. Unless you plan on spending a ton of money on restoration, It is what it is.

Response From Discretesignals

Needs to go to a shop to be diagnosed.

There is no way for us to tell you what it needs to resolve its problem unless you have some more information.

Look for fuel leaks

Make sure the choke is open all the way when the engine is warmed up

Make sure the carb isn't leaking from the metering wells

Make sure the Foo foo valve isn't full of gas.

Make sure the MC solenoid is operating and the feed back system works.



Wouldn't doubt if the carb is worn out and it needs a new one.
Probably wouldn't hurt to put Mom into a newer car that is fuel injected and gets better fuel economy.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This last carb was a pest. Still expensive for a redone one with high failure rates of those too. Plain vacuum anythings everywhere but make sure two for choke are not leaking meaning they hold vacuum to break open choke and choke heater shuts it off quickly or it will about spill fuel in short trip use not good for it either. Either of the last V8s for Olds were tough but nothing is going to like fuel wash if that is happening,

T

(on edit as I doubted this engine) This only came with a 307 CID = 5.0 Olds engine if gasoline or just 1% were 5.7 diesels which all failed early that I ever knew of. If it was a 5.7 many were converted to a gas engine that really wasn't practical and tons of gasoline specific emission items never changed over basically making them usable but not legal for road use in almost any place without relentless details on the switch back)

Response From Wizardsnapper

The choke never did work on the car. The Timing set was NEVER touched. The Carb. has been adjusted by a repair shop just to see if if could get better millage but it kept getting worse and still is. My mom and I cant afford a newer car, she got this one cheap during tax season with her rebate last year. If I have to replace anything other than the car its self then we are all for it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Those late Quadrajets you needed a two year course in futility to do anything to them and those who could are about done with that crap for actually older ones.

Make sure of what you have for a carb on this. Hope it's one of these............ Champion/Carburetor / Part Number: 10-344 Warranty: 1 YR Application: With U.S. Emission

Notes: O.E.M. #17081253, 17081254, 17082251, 17082253, 17083250, 17083253, 17083553, 17084250, 17084252, 17084253, 17084254, 17084256, 17084258, 17084554, 17085282, 17085554, 17086009..............

The "1708****" numbers would be on the driver's side back near where throttle pivots on side of carb vertically and hard to read. May be all different by now and still workable. If a computerised carb you won't like the price as it will exceed what you paid for this car - rebuilt not even a new one!

T

Response From Wizardsnapper


Those late Quadrajets you needed a two year course in futility to do anything to them and those who could are about done with that crap for actually older ones.




Make sure of what you have for a carb on this. Hope it's one of these............ Champion/Carburetor / Part Number: 10-344 Warranty: 1 YR Application: With U.S. Emission

Notes: O.E.M. #17081253, 17081254, 17082251, 17082253, 17083250, 17083253, 17083553, 17084250, 17084252, 17084253, 17084254, 17084256, 17084258, 17084554, 17085282, 17085554, 17086009..............

The "1708****" numbers would be on the driver's side back near where throttle pivots on side of carb vertically and hard to read. May be all different by now and still workable. If a computerised carb you won't like the price as it will exceed what you paid for this car - rebuilt not even a new one!

T




She has the original Rochester Carb. All facts that I'm giving you have come from her repair shop, I'm just relaying what they told me about it. I'm just looking foe=r a way for her to save a little more on gas. This is all the info I have on the car that I thought was relevant to the problem. I am willing to buy any part needed for it but not at the cost of a newer car. if the Carb needs to be replaced then so be it. I was just trying to get some options here. I'm not upset here but there is some criticism here like I lack info or knowledge. I'm only trying to do the best thing for my mom. any and all help is a big help to her. We just can't afford to buy a new car.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

In that pic is a Rochester Quadrajet. Shouldn't be a need to toss the whole thing as most rebuilt ones suk and many new ones when whole car was new suked too. Other than that these are remarkable carbs over many years for a wide variety of applications and adjusting them was the nightmare.

The couple things on these that could make it suck up fuel like no tomorrow were an inoperative primary choke pull off seen as brass colored in that particular pic 1/2 way up to the left with a vacuum hose to it. From cold with choke tripped the smaller front upper plate is the choke. To trip that just push throttle and it should snap shut.

Now that's 100% choked which is fine for about 2 seconds and it must "pull off" some right away when engine starts or would gag on fuel. DIY test could just be take the vacuum hose off, push the lever back with finger over where vacuum hose was, let go and it should stay put, then let go and watch it extend.

If just that didn't hold you can buy one of just those called the primary choke pull off. The rear you really can do without as it only works to open choke a tad more for just a minute or two at mid warm up before choke isn't needed for anything with a warm engine.

This would take a whole book to explain and as just said many weren't set exactly right new and that's just one adjustment but the most likely to cause rough running cold and flooding out if not working.

That's something you can check with no tools. Other is just with key on (everything cold) run position feel the top left black housing with one wire going to it get warm and just touch choke and it should go wide open on it's own without the engine running!

Just those two checks would be a wealth of info. These can run quite well. Finding proper help or even a good replacement was tricky then and harder now. Almost all car makers dumped using carbs greatly because it was just getting to hard to make them all perfect for fuel delivery + meet all emissions which fuel injection solved and took out all human adjustment error. Now old, the rubber parts about can't be much good,

T

Response From Wizardsnapper


In that pic is a Rochester Quadrajet. Shouldn't be a need to toss the whole thing as most rebuilt ones suk and many new ones when whole car was new suked too. Other than that these are remarkable carbs over many years for a wide variety of applications and adjusting them was the nightmare.

The couple things on these that could make it suck up fuel like no tomorrow were an inoperative primary choke pull off seen as brass colored in that particular pic 1/2 way up to the left with a vacuum hose to it. From cold with choke tripped the smaller front upper plate is the choke. To trip that just push throttle and it should snap shut.

Now that's 100% choked which is fine for about 2 seconds and it must "pull off" some right away when engine starts or would gag on fuel. DIY test could just be take the vacuum hose off, push the lever back with finger over where vacuum hose was, let go and it should stay put, then let go and watch it extend.

If just that didn't hold you can buy one of just those called the primary choke pull off. The rear you really can do without as it only works to open choke a tad more for just a minute or two at mid warm up before choke isn't needed for anything with a warm engine.

This would take a whole book to explain and as just said many weren't set exactly right new and that's just one adjustment but the most likely to cause rough running cold and flooding out if not working.

That's something you can check with no tools. Other is just with key on (everything cold) run position feel the top left black housing with one wire going to it get warm and just touch choke and it should go wide open on it's own without the engine running!

Just those two checks would be a wealth of info. These can run quite well. Finding proper help or even a good replacement was tricky then and harder now. Almost all car makers dumped using carbs greatly because it was just getting to hard to make them all perfect for fuel delivery + meet all emissions which fuel injection solved and took out all human adjustment error. Now old, the rubber parts about can't be much good,

T


Is it possible to make it Fuel Injected then? I read that for most coversions it would need a computer and some other things but it's a '84 does it have one already? Would the cost be less than buying a newer car?

Response From Discretesignals

You haven't even determined what is wrong with it. We can go through all the guessing, but it needs to be checked out to see what is going on with it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

My reason is this is highest on the list and doesn't cost a dime to check w no tools. If not that we punt. No on the fuel injection. This engine unless all trashed can be made to work fine,

T

Response From nickwarner

It would be worth keeping in mind that even when this was a brand new car in perfect tune it was a fuel hog, especially on short runs in town, stop and go driving. This thing is a big heavy car with an ineffiecent V8 engine and its marginally OK on the highway mileage once you get it up to speed as it should have an overdrive trans and long-legged rear end gears. In the short run, maybe you can get it to work a little bit better but its still going to be a pig at the pump no matter what. Add to that the fact this is a 28 year old car that was made by a brand that hasn't existed for a decade now. Many parts for it are getting harder to find and others are simply not available anymore. But realize that the cost of getting something newer that gets better mileage and has better parts availability would pay for itself based on the fuel savings. As Tom pointed out, the fuel system in this car was a royal pain and not many of the people who knew the right way to work on these are still in the field. So something with fuel injection and newer you can find people who really know what they are doing.

Don't buy a car just because its cheap. If all you can afford is an $800 car, you don't have the money to waste on gassing up a thirsty one.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

It was the emissions system that made the car a frickin nightmare to work on. Vacuum hose city under that hood. Better run a basic check on the engine by doing a compression check and maybe a leak down if you find low compression. Carb isn't going to work right on a worn out engine anyway. Being an 84, if the engine hasn't been rebuilt, it has to be tired.

Response From Hammer Time

And we come full circle back to my first post. It's a 28 year old dinosaur using a carb. Your chances of getting it fine tuned without a $5,000 investment are slim to none.

Response From Discretesignals

I agree HT. It was rated by the EPA to get 14 mpg in the city. That was if everything was working correctly.

Response From nickwarner

To put this in perspective, I drive a Suburban that gets 9mpg in town as a daily driver. Its big, has all the room in the world and has a V8. I love the thing. It cost me $160 to fill the thing up and I have no plans to buy anything else.

But............

I work full time as a professional technician and crank up overtime like its going out of style. My pay never goes down, it goes up. Its a reward for busting my ass.

If I were getting a measly check once a month that could barely cover my expenses with no way to make that check bigger, the truck would be replaced and I would show some due diligence to the cost of operation of what I drive to make it work with my budget. Or I'd get some good shoes. If you don't have to work, you have all day to get to where you're going. Thats also why busses and cabs and such were made in the first place. A brand new moped that gets 90 mpg is only $1000 brand new. Thats $200 less than the demo derby monster you're pointlessly trying to fix. You don't even need a calculator to do the math on this one. Your mom needs to exercise better judgement in what she buys and it needs to suit her budget beyond the purchase price. She's old enough to know better by now and you should be too.

Living for tax time like its the lottery ticket thats guaranteed makes for poor choices on what you spend that money on. This car proves my point. I've seen plenty of cars like Cavalier and Sunfire or Civic and Corolla that have 4 cylinder engines, get over 30mpg highway and may not be too pretty but are servicable and parts are cheap sell for a grand or less. But remember you get what you pay for and the cheapest car on purchase price isn't the cheapest car in the long run. If you don't have the money to buy something good now, save up and make a smart choice with your money.

I hate to be the dick here, but if you buy a worn out antique that got crappy mileage back when it was new, don't be shocked that the mileage still sucks. Its not a fine wine, it won't get better with age.

Response From Hammer Time

Tom's right. These came with either a 231 V6, 305 (Chevy) or 307 which were both 5.0. The 5.7 was a diesel.

Response From Wizardsnapper


Tom's right. These came with either a 231 V6, 305 (Chevy) or 307 which were both 5.0. The 5.7 was a diesel.



It has this engine: 8 Cylinders Y 5.0L 4BL OHV (found in 99% of 1984 Oldsmobile 88)

Response From Hammer Time

How do you know that?

PS, don't post any links.