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Eastern Catalytic
Qty:
Eastern Catalytic Catalytic Converter
  • Federal / EPA Semi-Universal Converter - ECO GM
  • ; Undercar Legal Note: Not For Sale or Use in the state of CA/NY & Maine (vehicles with California Emissions)
  • UNIVERSAL
  • Product Attributes:
    • Air Tube Qty: None
    • Body Length (IN): 12"
    • Catalyst Type: Eco Gm
    • Inlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Inlet Hardware: None
    • Inlet Type A: 2.00" Id
    • O2 Sensor Ports: None
    • Outlet Gasket Qty: None
    • Outlet Hardware: None
    • Outlet Type A: 2.00" Id
    • Shape: Large Round
    • Test Weight: 5.9 / 6000
  • Proprietary ECO GM NANO substrate chemistry is designed specifically to meet the emissions challenges of GM's 2.2, 3.1, 3.4, and 3.8L engines. Latest advanced-manufacturing technology, including automated workstations, spinner welding equipment, and high-speed production lines ensures that all converters are built to exact OE dimensions and fitment. This technology helps to maintain industry-leading efficiency, productivity, and competitive prices.
Brand: Eastern Catalytic
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Oldsmobile Achieva V 6 Cyl 3.1L 189 -
Husky Liners
Qty:
$70.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set  Front
  • Front Floor Mats
  • ; Black; 2 piece
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Front
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Oldsmobile Achieva Front
Husky Liners
1997 Oldsmobile Achieva Floor Mat Set - Rear Husky Liners - Heavy Duty Floor Mat

P311-08F4DF7    52021  New

Qty:
$57.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set  Rear
  • 2nd Or 3rd Seat Floor Mats
  • ; Black; 2 pc.; Does Not Cover Hump May Require Trimming For Correct Fit/Trim Guides Molded In Mat
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Rear
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Oldsmobile Achieva Rear
Mahle
1994 Oldsmobile Achieva Engine Crankshaft Seal Mahle

P311-528A981    W0133-1682881  New

Qty:
$38.29
Mahle Engine Crankshaft Seal
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type
1994 - Oldsmobile Achieva OHV
ACDelco
1992 Oldsmobile Achieva Spark Plug ACDelco

P311-2AC5391    W0133-2043348  New

Qty:
$19.53
ACDelco Spark Plug
  • Professional Rapidfire
  • ; Rapidfire
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type
1992 - Oldsmobile Achieva OHV
ACDelco
1994 Oldsmobile Achieva Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$101.33
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Genuine GM
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type
1994 - Oldsmobile Achieva OHV
ACDelco
1994 Oldsmobile Achieva Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$101.33
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Gold (Professional)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type
1994 - Oldsmobile Achieva OHV
ACDelco
1993 Oldsmobile Achieva Ignition Coil ACDelco

P311-3D7CCCF    W0133-2107504  New

Qty:
$101.33
ACDelco Ignition Coil
  • Gold (Professional)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type
1993 - Oldsmobile Achieva OHV
ACDelco
1994 Oldsmobile Achieva Fuel Filter ACDelco

P311-1FE80BA    W0133-1639997  New

Qty:
$32.92
ACDelco Fuel Filter
  • Gold (Professional)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Oldsmobile Achieva
ACDelco
1995 Oldsmobile Achieva Fuel Filter ACDelco

P311-1FE80BA    W0133-1639997  New

Qty:
$32.92
ACDelco Fuel Filter
  • Gold (Professional)
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Oldsmobile Achieva

Showing 1 - 10 of 4,565 Products.


Latest Oldsmobile Achieva Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1994 Oldsmobile Achieva (Lights stay on while driving)

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Detailz on 1994 Oldsmobile Achieva (Lights stay on while driving)

Hello,

I can't seem to find anything on the internet to assist me in the repair of the interior lights staying on in my car, and if anyone knows a way to make this situation a little easier, i would really appreciate it.


Thanks

Response From motorheadII Top Rated Answer

Locate your IP brightness control and see if it has the interior lights turned on. Otherwise, check pillar switch operation.

1998 Oldsmobile Achieva brake problems...

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From mjones98806 on 1998 Oldsmobile Achieva brake problems...

1998 Olds Achieva SL sedan, V6 3.1, 150k mi, New England area
I recently replaced the left rear wheel cylinder on my 1998 Oldsmobile Achieva SL and, like an idiot, tried to bleed the brakes without replacing the drum on the outside of the rear wheel assembly. I had also taken the drum off of the right side of the vehicle so I could compare the two sides and ensure that I was putting the left side together correctly. The right rear wheel cylinder burst during the bleeding process. Once again, I replaced the wheel cylinder, but on the opposite side. This time I went to bleed the brakes and noticed that there was little to no pressure building under the pedal. When I turned the car on, the brake lights stayed on and the pedal had to be pulled up and held in this position in order to turn the brake lights off. When the car is off I can build enough pressure in the brake system to bleed the brakes by pulling the brake pedal up and pushing it to the floor. I know that pressure is being maintained in the brake system when the car is off because once the bleeder is loosened, the pedal then sinks all the way to the floor.
So with the car on, I have a useless brake system I can't keep pressure in and the brake pedal sits at half mast with the brake lights on unless I hold it in a fully returned position with my foot. With it off, I can build pressure in the brake system and bleed the brakes, but I have to force the pedal to fully return in order to do so. This was not a problem before I started messing with the rear brake shoe/drum assembly in order to fix this leaky wheel cylinder which has just turned into so many different problems.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

It's possible you damaged your master cylinder.

1st you need to rebleed the whole system to make sure there isn't any air trapped anywhere. If you still don't have a pedal after that you can try gravity bleeding the system, just crack open 1 bleeder at a time & let it drip. This takes a while and keep an eye on the fluid in the master while doing this.

Still no pedal and you will probably be looking at replacing the master cyl.

What happens is there is a lot dirt & debri that builds up in the master in areas that the seals never go. For whatever reason when the pedal does a full travel to the bottom, those seals go over that debri and if they were marginal already that the last straw it takes to take them all the way out......

I have seen a few cars where the only way to get the air out was to pressure bleed the system because manual bleeding wasn't doing the trick but you don't see that too often...

1998 oldsmobile

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From gfj on 1998 oldsmobile

My 1998 oldsmobile achieva, V6, auto trans, front wheel drive, 135,000 miles, seemed to be missing, I changed plugs and wires, throttle sensor, than after closer checking, I think it is the TCC, it seems to be kicking in and out between the speeds 58-70. I changed the trans fluid and filter but didn't help. I have been able to only get 1 code and it said loose connection. i have checked all and tighten them but still jerking at these speeds, only does this in overdrive, in drive it runs fine. do you have any suggestions what I need to check.
Thanks
gfj

Response From Hammer Time

There are no codes that say anything about loose connections. What was the exact code number?

Response From gfj

On my hand held scanner it said loose connection check TCC, which I have , but no luck

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I don't know what kind of nonsense your scanner is telling you but codes supply specific data information. They don't make conclusions like loose connections. I need a number.

Response From gfj

Sorry to have wasted your time but that is what it said , NO numbers.

Response From Hammer Time

All codes are identified by numbers so you just need a different scanner. It will start with a "P" and then 4 numbers.

olds cuts out

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From pooh150 on olds cuts out

i have 1997 oldsmobile achieva 4 cylinder i have put new parts on it ive put new plugs new coilpack and new fuel felter and i had fuel injectors cleaned out ive put gas treatment in gas tank i need help the car i can be driving it down highway and it will kick down and start missing and it will take gas all at once and fly need help

Response From zmame Top Rated Answer

Did you change the wires too along with the plugs and coil??..

Might be a bad wire.. if there original or been on for long time wouldn't be a bad idea to change then anyways.

Is check engine light on? or been on recently.. If so you should have it scanned and get the codes pulled.

BCM, Security light blinks, car won't start

Showing 3 out of 8 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From achieva on BCM, Security light blinks, car won't start

Have a 1997 Oldsmobile Achieva (2.4 litre) with 61,000 miles. The motor had a knocking rod so I had the engine changed. Now the security system won't let the car start and idle, it starts but then dies immediately. Security light is blinking when ignition is on. Mechanic says it could be the key or body control module. Car never did this before engine swap and began immediately after swap. No electronics were changed. It does this with both keys, so I find it hard to believe it is the keys. The only issue before swap was the battery would not hold a charge and not yet been changed. Any suggestions or diagnosis is appreciated.

Response From Double J

Sounds like the system is in long term tamper mode...

Try the reprogramming auto learn procedure...

1) Ensure battery is fully charged.
2) use a scan tool to clear the DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes)
3) Turn the ignition switch from the off position to full crank position attempting to start the vehicle. the vehicle will start then stall.
4) Leave the ignition switch on while observing the security indicator
5) When the security indicator turns off,(can take up to 10 minutes) turn ignition switch off...wait 10 seconds..
6) The BCM and the PCM will learn new code on the next start attempt.

The PASSLOCK TM System is designed to prevent vehicle operation if the mechanical key is not used to start the vehicle. The mechanical key, in normal operation, will turn the PASSLOCK TM Lock Cylinder. The PASSLOCK TM Lock Cylinder will relay a Resistance Code (R-Code) to the Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) . The IPC will determine the validity of the R-Code within a preset time window started form an Ignition Switch input and will send a coded password to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) . When the PCM receives the correct code, it will allow the Fuel Injectors to operate normally.

Try this and post back results.....hope it helps....

Response From achieva

I put in a brand new battery and reset. So far, so good. I have 2 keys that both worked prior to engine swap. When I reprogrammed the BCM with the first key, it worked and started twice. When I tried the 2nd key it messed up again, so I went back to key #1 and was able to reset it once again and it started. I am going to stick to 1 key and see what happens over time. Thanks for your help, and if you have an idea why 1 key works better than the other, or if this is s recognizable sympton for another problem, please let me know.

Response From achieva

Okay, it is not working again. Each time I reset the key (it takes 2 or 3 tries) the car runs great. After turning it off we have to repeat the same process. It starts, dies, and security light blinks. The car started every time before the engine swap, either key. This started immediately after the swap at the mechanics garage. There has to be something not hooked up right. I find it hard to believe that either the BCM or both keys went bad during the period of changing the motor.

The check engine light is on with the ETS (electronic traction system). This was happening before the engine swap but never prevented the car from starting, and the warning lights would come and go, as they are still doing now. We must be overlooking something.

Response From Double J

Have the trouble codes read and post back....lets see whats happening...
codes need to be read by a good quality scan tool than will read the security system codes...

Response From achieva

I had the codes read and by Chevrolet and they said it was the ignition switch. So I had it changed. Several hundred dollars later, it hasn't fixed a thing. It has to be that the computer is not reading the new motor somehow. Is that possible? Does the BCM need to be programmed to the VIN of the donor car now that the motor is changed?

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Never heard of that...programming the donor vehicle #.

What code/codes came up? ..should be a B-code
Did they replace the Ignition switch or Ignition lock cylinder?.

If they diagnosed it as an "Ignition switch" and it didn't correct the problem,take it back to them...

Response From achieva

I called the mechanic and he wasn't sure about the code, thought it was a P code (has been 2 weeks or so). The check engine light also coded the idle air control which he changed from the original motor and it cleared, however, the check engine light is back on. The Chevrolet dealer has no idea what the problem is and now suggest changing the BCM and I can't see doing it. The car started every time before the engine swap, now won't start at all. It will not even reset now with the reset protocol mentioned above. Mechanic suggest disconnecting battery cables, touching them together to clear the computer long enough to trade it in, but even that is not working. Every time they work on it the problem gets worse. At least it ran before even though the rod was knocking.