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Best Selling Genuine Volvo Oil Pumps

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including MTC, Genuine, IMC
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Volvo Replacement Oil Pump Parts

We stock Oil Pump parts for most Volvo models, including 122, 240, 242, 244, 245, 740, 760, 850, 940, 960, 1800, C30, C70, S40, S60, S70, S80, S90, V40, V50, V70, V90, XC70, XC90.

MTC
1962 Volvo 122 Engine Oil Pump MTC

P311-449FE74    New

Qty:
$109.89
MTC Engine Oil Pump
Brand: MTC
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1962 - Volvo 122
MTC
1980 Volvo 242 Engine Oil Pump MTC

P311-33E1C16    New

Qty:
$128.40
MTC Engine Oil Pump
  • Eng: 723-, Screen Diameter = 64mm - B21F Engine series 498830 only
  • Includes timing cover.
Brand: MTC
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Volvo 242
MTC
1980 Volvo 242 Engine Oil Pump MTC

P311-33E1C16    New

Qty:
$128.40
MTC Engine Oil Pump
  • Eng: 615-, Screen Diameter = 64mm - B21F Engine series 498831 only
  • Includes timing cover.
Brand: MTC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Volvo 242
MTC
1980 Volvo 242 Engine Oil Pump MTC

P311-33E1C16    New

Qty:
$128.40
MTC Engine Oil Pump
  • Eng: 525-, Screen Diameter = 64mm - B21F Engine series 498832 only
  • Includes timing cover.
Brand: MTC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Volvo 242
MTC
1980 Volvo 242 Engine Oil Pump MTC

P311-33E1C16    New

Qty:
$128.40
MTC Engine Oil Pump
  • Eng: 609-, Screen Diameter = 64mm - B21F Engine series 498833 only
  • Includes timing cover.
Brand: MTC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Volvo 242
MTC
1980 Volvo 242 Engine Oil Pump MTC

P311-33E1C16    New

Qty:
$128.40
MTC Engine Oil Pump
  • Eng: 1953-, Screen Diameter = 64mm - B21F Engine series 498848 only
  • Includes timing cover.
Brand: MTC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Volvo 242
MTC
1980 Volvo 242 Engine Oil Pump MTC

P311-33E1C16    New

Qty:
$128.40
MTC Engine Oil Pump
  • Eng: 2561-, Screen Diameter = 64mm - B21F Engine series 498849 only
  • Includes timing cover.
Brand: MTC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Volvo 242
MTC
1981 Volvo 242 Engine Oil Pump MTC

P311-33E1C16    New

Qty:
$128.40
MTC Engine Oil Pump
  • Includes timing cover.
Brand: MTC
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1981 - Volvo 242
Genuine
2000 Volvo C70 Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-16ADA84    New

Qty:
$324.63
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Volvo C70
Genuine
1998 Volvo C70 Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-446509F    New

Qty:
$324.63
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Volvo C70
Genuine
1999 Volvo S80 Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-18D2B8D    New

Qty:
$252.32
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Requires gasket 1275404.
Brand: Genuine
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Volvo S80
Genuine
2001 Volvo S80 Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-5B89C82    New

Qty:
$434.06
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • This Oil Pump comes with the Front Seal and the large O-ring ,but not the Rear Gasket which should be replaced when replacing this Pump, please order part number 1275404 Gasket separately.
Brand: Genuine
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Volvo S80
IMC
1976 Volvo 242 Engine Oil Pump IMC

P311-4A1469B    New

Qty:
$71.53
IMC Engine Oil Pump
  • Scan Tech
Brand: IMC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1976 - Volvo 242

Latest Volvo Repair and Oil Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Crankcase Pressure

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From jtz54 on Crankcase Pressure

I have a 2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara with 170K miles. Until recently the vehicle has never given me a problem except now the lifters have been clacking noisily at startup.
One thing I noticed is that when I remove the oil cap there is no longer any positive crankcase pressure as before. When I used to loosen the cap with the engine running, there was always air coming from the crankcase, now there is nothing. I know that on any other vehicles I've seen there is always positive pressure in the crankcase. I've put in a new PVC valve with no results.

Any ideas on what happened to cause this?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's getting there with the miles. Forget the oil cap for now - how good have you been with oil changes? Any sludge noted? The crankcase should be at a slight vacuum with a healthy engine and at some point the blowby of high mile engines or abused ones overcomes the PCV system. It's manageable for a while if that's what's happening but the beginning of the end.

Change out oil with synthetics and perhaps up the viscosity may help for now,

T

Response From jtz54 Top Rated Answer

Thanks for the reply! I'm not sure what's happened. I do know that everytime I've loosened the oil cap I've felt positive pressure from the crankcase. I just bought a 2002 Volvo S40 with 86K and it has positive pressure. Is this a bad thing?

I've used synthetic oil for over 30 years and have always had excellent results with minimal sludge. Since this valve lifter issue started I've used this stuff called Auto-RX with good results (contains lanolin which conditions seals, which I'm told synthetic oil isn't the friendliest towards). The oil holes in the lifters of the Suzuki engine are minimal and sludge easily. The Auto-RX seems to have cleaned them out. I was thinking that the lack of crankcase pressure may be due to the oil pump going out (although oil pressure is OK).

Appreciate your inputs.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: Just under the oil cap is usually close to or on valve covers. Air motion there varies in different vehicles/engines - the dipstick tube is a better indicator of crankcase pressure in more cases but not all again. The idea is for the vapors in the crankcase to be returned thru a PCV system into the intake and crancase would measure a slight vacuum of pressure. It the pressure is higher than atmospheric it blows out of any gaskets or open dipstick tube, oil cap - get confusing but it is not supposed to be pressured in there as that is an indication of gasses blowing by worn piston rings common as engine get up there in miles, time and or abuse.

Oil pressure may still read strong when you are running but may be late to build up when first started. It's excellent when an engine has up to a normal pressure when cranking even and they slowly lose that over their life as oil is pressuring up in bearings and other areas first and the more worn the longer it takes.

Hydraulic lifter are not the first to get oil when started and if other items before them take up too much of the bounty they are frequently the first sign by ticking which may quit after a while or may persist and mechanical repair is indicated.

You could check the oil pressure with a gauge that is not part of the vehicle to get accurate reading to see if it is able to do the job.

Over the life of an engine the oil must resist making like a shallac and sludge which will clog the little holes the oild must travel to lubricate the items thruought the engine. Lifter make noise when they get stickey from shallac or not adequate oil pressure early enough and the pin point heat of friction will turn even the best oils into sludge. I've seen the synthetics resist that tendency better than conventional but all must be changed regularly - like every 3,000 miles with few exceptions.

At 170,000 miles I think you are witnessing the signs of wear on the engine.

Opinion: From new most engines will deliver 100,000 miles of dependable life with few problems with ordinary care. The next 100,000 depends on how rigorous the care was and the quality of oil used and throw in good luck. We hear of engines with tons more miles but they are the few after the 200k mark - many still run but running perfectly well is unusual by that point. The manufacturer's aim seems to be for the 100k for the whole car and in real life it varies widely. The whole vehicle is involved - not just the engine.

Just changing oil is like a cleansing of existing unseen sludge and that varnish mentioned. The solvents to speed that up like flushes can cause problems by being too fast. When ticking first starts accellerating the change intervals might reverse some conditions or at least can't hurt.

I'm not there taking in every tidbit I might notice in a vehicle with that mileage on it to be sure of anything. Basically over a career of automotive I would tell folks that they have done well when they can reach the miles you already have - and the rest is gravy usually earned with care for it along the way. How many miles do you expect without some major work? There is a life expectany with the best of care,

T