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DJ Rock
Qty:
$82.55
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine Designation Position
1996 - Suzuki Sidekick L 1590 97 SOHC - N/A
DJ Rock
Qty:
$70.15
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine Designation Position
1992 - Suzuki Sidekick L 1590 97 SOHC - N/A
DJ Rock
2008 Suzuki SX4 Engine Oil Pump - N/A 4 Cyl 2.0L DJ Rock

P311-09BEE91    New

Qty:
$106.26
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine Designation Position
2008 - Suzuki SX4 L 1995 - DOHC - N/A
DJ Rock
Qty:
$117.87
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
  • H25A
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine Designation Position
1999 - Suzuki Grand Vitara V 2500 - DOHC - N/A
DJ Rock
Qty:
$155.31
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine Designation Position
2011 - Suzuki Equator V 3954 - DOHC VQ40DE N/A
DJ Rock
1998 Suzuki Swift Engine Oil Pump - N/A 4 Cyl 1.3L DJ Rock

P311-5ECFB2D    New

Qty:
$82.55
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
  • G13BB
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine Designation Engine VIN Position
1998 - Suzuki Swift L 1298 79 SOHC - 2 N/A
DJ Rock
1995 Suzuki Swift Engine Oil Pump - N/A 4 Cyl 1.3L DJ Rock

P311-5ECFB2D    New

Qty:
$82.55
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
  • G13BA with Sensor Port
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine Designation Engine VIN Position
1995 - Suzuki Swift L 1298 79 SOHC - 2 N/A
DJ Rock
1995 Suzuki Swift Engine Oil Pump - N/A 4 Cyl 1.3L DJ Rock

P311-25A3778    New

Qty:
$69.47
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
  • G13BA w/o Sensor Port
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine Designation Engine VIN Position
1995 - Suzuki Swift L 1298 79 SOHC - 2 N/A
DJ Rock
1989 Suzuki Swift Engine Oil Pump - N/A 4 Cyl 1.3L DJ Rock

P311-25A3778    New

Qty:
$69.47
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
  • G13BA
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine Designation Engine VIN Position
1989 - Suzuki Swift L 1298 79 SOHC - 3 N/A
DJ Rock
Qty:
$69.47
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
  • G13A
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine Designation Engine VIN Position
1986 - Suzuki Samurai L 1325 81 SOHC - 5 N/A
DJ Rock
Qty:
$82.55
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
  • G16B
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine Designation Position
1999 - Suzuki Vitara L 1590 97 SOHC - N/A
DJ Rock
Qty:
$70.15
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
  • G16B
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine Designation Engine VIN Position
1995 - Suzuki Esteem L 1590 97 SOHC - 3 N/A
DJ Rock
Qty:
$106.26
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
  • J18A
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine Designation Position
1996 - Suzuki Sidekick L 1840 - DOHC - N/A
DJ Rock
2004 Suzuki Aerio Engine Oil Pump - N/A 4 Cyl 2.3L DJ Rock

P311-09BEE91    New

Qty:
$106.26
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
  • J23A
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine Designation Position
2004 - Suzuki Aerio L 2290 140 DOHC - N/A
DJ Rock
Qty:
$117.87
DJ Rock Engine Oil Pump  N/A
  • H27A
Brand: DJ Rock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine Designation Position
2001 - Suzuki Grand Vitara V 2737 - DOHC - N/A
Seal Power
1986 Suzuki Samurai Engine Oil Pump 4 Cyl 1.3L Seal Power

P311-58EE02A    New

Qty:
$122.86
Seal Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Oil Pump
  • Product Attributes:
    • Consumer Warranty 1: Sealed Power® Parts Are Warranted To Be Free From Defects In Material And Workmanship Under Normal Use And Service For 12 Months From Date Of Purchase. Remedy For Breach Of Warranty Is Limited To Free Exchange Of Product.
    • Consumer Warranty 2: Liability For Neglect, Misuse, Special, Incidental, Direct, Indirect, And Consequential Damages Is Specifically Disclaimed. No Other Warranty, Either Expressed Or Implied, Including Merchantability Or Fitness For A Particular Purpose, Is Made.
    • Feature 1: Manufactured To Fit A Specific Application
    • Feature 2: Ensures That Oil Is Evenly Distributed In The Engine System
    • Feature 3: Tested For Pressure And Flow Under Conditions That Duplicates Actual Operating Conditions
    • Feature 4: Engineered, Manufactured And Assembled To The Highest Material And Production Standards
    • Feature 5: Utilizes Iso Qs Certified Manufacturing
    • Feature 6: Sensor Not Included
    • Part Alert: W/o Sensor
    • What is in the box: In The Box: Oil Pump
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Seal Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine VIN
1986 - Suzuki Samurai L 1325 81 SOHC 5
Seal Power
1995 Suzuki Swift Engine Oil Pump 4 Cyl 1.3L Seal Power

P311-58EE02A    New

Qty:
$122.86
Seal Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Oil Pump
  • w/o Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Consumer Warranty 1: Sealed Power® Parts Are Warranted To Be Free From Defects In Material And Workmanship Under Normal Use And Service For 12 Months From Date Of Purchase. Remedy For Breach Of Warranty Is Limited To Free Exchange Of Product.
    • Consumer Warranty 2: Liability For Neglect, Misuse, Special, Incidental, Direct, Indirect, And Consequential Damages Is Specifically Disclaimed. No Other Warranty, Either Expressed Or Implied, Including Merchantability Or Fitness For A Particular Purpose, Is Made.
    • Feature 1: Manufactured To Fit A Specific Application
    • Feature 2: Ensures That Oil Is Evenly Distributed In The Engine System
    • Feature 3: Tested For Pressure And Flow Under Conditions That Duplicates Actual Operating Conditions
    • Feature 4: Engineered, Manufactured And Assembled To The Highest Material And Production Standards
    • Feature 5: Utilizes Iso Qs Certified Manufacturing
    • Feature 6: Sensor Not Included
    • Part Alert: W/o Sensor
    • What is in the box: In The Box: Oil Pump
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Seal Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type
1995 - Suzuki Swift L 1298 79 SOHC

Latest Suzuki Repair and Oil Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

02 Suzuki Esteem -- oil light on and whirring noise

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From gyre on 02 Suzuki Esteem -- oil light on and whirring noise

Hi again -- this is the same car as referred to in a thread I started in this forum on Dec 13 2012. At that time the problem was white smoke, battery light, and (later) dead battery. That was solved by changing the alternator and serpentine belt (aka generator belt / drive belt, I think).

Since the new alternator was installed I noticed a slight whirring noise that would go up and down with the engine speed. Didn't do anything about it though I wondered if it might be a bearing or something inside the new alternator.

Now the oil pressure light is coming on, and the whirring noise is still there, so I'm wondering if they are related. I'm pretty sure it's not engine knock (it sounds more like a fan or an impeller). Can it be the oil pump? I thought those don't usually wear out.

The oil level is fine, the oil looks normal-dirty (no metal shavings in it as far as I can tell). I don't have an oil pressure gauge so haven't checked that. And, in case it makes any difference, the weather is cold up here (often -15 to -20 Celsius / 0 to 5 Fahrenheit).

Thanks for any advice!

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

You need to put this information in your original thread. That way there is no confusion. You have a new thread on the same subject when there is an unresolved thread still open. Locking this thread.



http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/General_Discussions_F5/02_Suzuki_Esteem_--_oil_light_on_and_whirring_noise_P136916/gforum.cgi?post=132694;t=search_engine#132694

02 Suzuki Esteem -- white smoke and battery light

Showing 2 out of 12 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From gyre on 02 Suzuki Esteem -- white smoke and battery light

2002 Suzuki Esteem wagon, the past couple of days has had grey-white smoke inside the engine compartment and coming out the exhaust pipe and into the passenger compartment (if we're running the heater). I can't identify the smoke smell -- thought it might be burning rubber (from wiring insulation) but not sure.

And the battery light stays on while the car is running. This problem started the same time as the smoke problem. So I thought it might be an electrical short circuit... but then why the smoke from the exhaust?

I don't think it's a coolant leak since the coolant level is still up to the top with some in the reservoir.

The car seems to be driving as normal (no change in performance).

The weather has gotten below freezing the past couple of weeks, but not a lot below freezing. No accidents, engine work, hard driving, or anything unusual recently.

Any ideas greatly appreciated!

W.

Response From Discretesignals

White smoke could be steam from condensation in the exhaust, but then it could be coolant also. If you have it in the engine bay, you might want to have the system pressure tested to see if there are any leaks. You also need to figure out why the battery light is on. If the alternator isn't charging, you'll get stuck if your driving it.

Check your belts and hoses. Look for leaks on the ground. With the engine cold remove the radiator cap and check the coolant level in the radiator. The overflow tank might show good, but if there is a leak, the coolant system won't pull from the tank.

Response From gyre

Thanks a lot, I'll check those things out and get back. I'm pretty sure it's not steam because it has a burning smell. I just find it weird that those two problems (white smoke and battery light) are happening at the same time because they seem to relate to two different systems (cooling and electrical) and I wouldn't have thought a fault would cause a fault in the other... unless it's a coolant leak shorting out the alternator or something?? Anyway, thanks and will send an update when I know more.

Response From Discretesignals

Another possibility is the heater core is leaking and the coolant is getting onto the exhaust if the coolant is draining out of the pee pee tube. Still doesn't explain why it would be coming out the tail pipe.

Response From Discretesignals

Definitely keep us in the loop. That is a weird one. Smoking alternator or burning coolant, what could it be?

Response From gyre

Thanks, will keep that one in mind too.

Response From gyre

Got a bad feeling about this... "interesting" usually turns into "expensive"! Will keep you in the loop and appreciate the responses.

Response From gyre

The car had no battery at all this morning, which I was kind of expecting. I took it to my mechanic and got it back apparently in working order. He replaced the alternator (no surprise given the battery light) and the serpentine belt (which was apparently no longer good, but did not appear to be slipping enough to smoke, and the alternator wasn't seized), added 2 litres of engine oil (which I find interesting, it's never gotten low before), topped up the power steering fluid and tightened one of the power steering lines. Apparently the top gasket (on the engine block) is leaking a bit but it's not much, and it's still a mystery as to what was causing the smoke... could have been oil from the gasket (but doesn't look like it) or power steering fluid from a loose line (weird). Doesn't seem to be smoking now, whatever it was. I'm thinking it was probably something inside the alternator burning up as it died... are the wire windings inside usually insulated with rubber? That's what it smelled like.

Also second-guessing myself about the colour of the smoke: it was night-time, and I was watching it inside the garage (I know...) and I'm pretty sure it was white, or at least light grey, but can't be absolutely positive.

So we'll see how it does and if the repair lasts.

Would have tried some of this myself if I had the time but at least I appreciated going to the mechanic with an idea of the possible range of problems. Thanks again for the feedback yesterday and will keep in touch.

Response From gyre Top Rated Answer

Hi again -- a new problem (possibly related). When I started this thread in December the problem was white smoke, battery light, and (later) dead battery. That was solved by changing the alternator and serpentine belt (aka generator belt / drive belt, I think).

Ever since the new alternator was installed I noticed a slight whirring noise that would go up and down with the engine speed. Didn't do anything about it though I wondered if it might be a bearing or something inside the new alternator.

Now the oil pressure light is coming on, and the whirring noise is still there, so I'm wondering if they are related. I'm pretty sure it's not engine knock (it sounds more like a fan or an impeller). Can it be the oil pump? I thought those don't usually wear out.

The oil level is fine, the oil looks normal-dirty (no metal shavings in it as far as I can tell). I don't have an oil pressure gauge so haven't checked that. And, in case it makes any difference, the weather is cold up here (often -15 to -20 Celsius / 0 to 5 Fahrenheit).

Thanks for any advice!

Response From Discretesignals

You may need to connect a pressure gauge and see what the actual pressure is. That would tell you if you have a problem in the engine or a problem with the oil pressure sender/gauge.

Response From gyre

Just to close the loop on this one: I had the oil and filter and oil pressure switch changed, and one of those solved the oil light problem. I'm guessing there may have been sludge in the filter: the car gets used for a lot of short trips and it is very cold up here. I should have mentioned in my original post that the oil light was only coming on sometimes, and only at low idle.

As for the noise, a belt tensioner was frozen/jammed and replacing that stopped the noise.

Thanks for the feedback.

Response From Hammer Time

Glad you got it resolved.
Question closed as solved.

Crankcase Pressure

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From jtz54 on Crankcase Pressure

I have a 2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara with 170K miles. Until recently the vehicle has never given me a problem except now the lifters have been clacking noisily at startup.
One thing I noticed is that when I remove the oil cap there is no longer any positive crankcase pressure as before. When I used to loosen the cap with the engine running, there was always air coming from the crankcase, now there is nothing. I know that on any other vehicles I've seen there is always positive pressure in the crankcase. I've put in a new PVC valve with no results.

Any ideas on what happened to cause this?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's getting there with the miles. Forget the oil cap for now - how good have you been with oil changes? Any sludge noted? The crankcase should be at a slight vacuum with a healthy engine and at some point the blowby of high mile engines or abused ones overcomes the PCV system. It's manageable for a while if that's what's happening but the beginning of the end.

Change out oil with synthetics and perhaps up the viscosity may help for now,

T

Response From jtz54 Top Rated Answer

Thanks for the reply! I'm not sure what's happened. I do know that everytime I've loosened the oil cap I've felt positive pressure from the crankcase. I just bought a 2002 Volvo S40 with 86K and it has positive pressure. Is this a bad thing?

I've used synthetic oil for over 30 years and have always had excellent results with minimal sludge. Since this valve lifter issue started I've used this stuff called Auto-RX with good results (contains lanolin which conditions seals, which I'm told synthetic oil isn't the friendliest towards). The oil holes in the lifters of the Suzuki engine are minimal and sludge easily. The Auto-RX seems to have cleaned them out. I was thinking that the lack of crankcase pressure may be due to the oil pump going out (although oil pressure is OK).

Appreciate your inputs.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: Just under the oil cap is usually close to or on valve covers. Air motion there varies in different vehicles/engines - the dipstick tube is a better indicator of crankcase pressure in more cases but not all again. The idea is for the vapors in the crankcase to be returned thru a PCV system into the intake and crancase would measure a slight vacuum of pressure. It the pressure is higher than atmospheric it blows out of any gaskets or open dipstick tube, oil cap - get confusing but it is not supposed to be pressured in there as that is an indication of gasses blowing by worn piston rings common as engine get up there in miles, time and or abuse.

Oil pressure may still read strong when you are running but may be late to build up when first started. It's excellent when an engine has up to a normal pressure when cranking even and they slowly lose that over their life as oil is pressuring up in bearings and other areas first and the more worn the longer it takes.

Hydraulic lifter are not the first to get oil when started and if other items before them take up too much of the bounty they are frequently the first sign by ticking which may quit after a while or may persist and mechanical repair is indicated.

You could check the oil pressure with a gauge that is not part of the vehicle to get accurate reading to see if it is able to do the job.

Over the life of an engine the oil must resist making like a shallac and sludge which will clog the little holes the oild must travel to lubricate the items thruought the engine. Lifter make noise when they get stickey from shallac or not adequate oil pressure early enough and the pin point heat of friction will turn even the best oils into sludge. I've seen the synthetics resist that tendency better than conventional but all must be changed regularly - like every 3,000 miles with few exceptions.

At 170,000 miles I think you are witnessing the signs of wear on the engine.

Opinion: From new most engines will deliver 100,000 miles of dependable life with few problems with ordinary care. The next 100,000 depends on how rigorous the care was and the quality of oil used and throw in good luck. We hear of engines with tons more miles but they are the few after the 200k mark - many still run but running perfectly well is unusual by that point. The manufacturer's aim seems to be for the 100k for the whole car and in real life it varies widely. The whole vehicle is involved - not just the engine.

Just changing oil is like a cleansing of existing unseen sludge and that varnish mentioned. The solvents to speed that up like flushes can cause problems by being too fast. When ticking first starts accellerating the change intervals might reverse some conditions or at least can't hurt.

I'm not there taking in every tidbit I might notice in a vehicle with that mileage on it to be sure of anything. Basically over a career of automotive I would tell folks that they have done well when they can reach the miles you already have - and the rest is gravy usually earned with care for it along the way. How many miles do you expect without some major work? There is a life expectany with the best of care,

T

Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From greenbee on Re: Codes after rebuild - '99 4L60-E 2.2L

Delighted to read your post the made me reflect on what is in store for me dealing with my 98 suzuki swift transmission MX17 . I got the car with a replaced used engine in which the guy told me he never was able to fire,... soon after I start the engine I find out the transmission oil pump was out ,,,, I Got busy an took engine out and begin to work on the transmission bought a master rebuild kit, a reconstructed T/C and have the pump rebuild, although I try to be as careful as I could be,, I feel I must have done something wrong cause,
The transmission works on park, reverse, and low forward,..
Drive and second ! slips. unfortunate for me cause the guy the worked on transmissions in my area retired and moved out of state... greenbee

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

greenbee - Please don't post on another thread with garbage about another make and model of vehicle at that!


This now new thread on it's own separated I expect another moderator to delete or moved out totally. Hijacking existing threads doesn't help anyone,


T

engine junk in under 2 minuets??

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on engine junk in under 2 minuets??

2001 Suzuki grand vatara 97,000 mi

checked oil last week cuz heard noise sounded like lifter rap.. oil fine, later that day oil light comes on for first time ever ( i bought the car with 18000 mi) i tried checking oil when car was cold.. still fine.. oil light continues to come on.. i should mention that i do not drive it much.. i work on ebay and the post office and grocery store are within a mile of the house.. only go out about 3 x a week for the trip to the post and maybe a market stop on the way home.. this has been the usual for about 4 years now, once every few months there is something that takes me to the next town or a bit longer driving around town here but the car sits a lot..

anyway on tuesday i was bringing child to dentist in next town and the car just stalled and died.. called AAA.. while waiting i opened the hood and found the green build up on the battery terminal, i scraped that off and started the car right up.. AAA guy came along and insisted i needed a new battery, i told him that i had no battery troubles at all b4 and it turns right over and starts first time.. nope .. lady take a battery or just sit here.. not sure if car will get me home, i took the $125 battery and drove home..

2 days later, the next time i used the car.. which was yesterday, i'm trying to get to the same dentist, car does the same thing.. stalls and dies.. this time AAA tows it to a shop, the one that the tow truck driver recommends.. when i told him where i wanted to bring it he said that he knew a better priced place which does really good work..

get the car there .. the repair guy goes over and turns the key and hears the click click and then tells me i need a new engine (when i first broke down i didn't get anything when i turned the key, opened the hood and wiggled the post battery connection and then started getting the click ..
so less than 5 minuets in the door.. no attempt to put jumpers on the battery.. just nope your engine is shot.. "we do a lot of these" the guy tells me.. i'm thinking yea you do cuz you don't do anything to try to fix the car.. i went over to ask the tow driver if he was sure about the place cuz they had said the engine was junk before he could even get his flat bed tilted back up .. he just went over and told the guy to look around to see if it could be anything else.. ( on the side of the road the tow driver had looked and said it looked like there was a leaky hose which was spraying oil on the belt so that the battery wasn't getting charged, repair guy said that was a fuel line when i mentioned that to him) he said that there is sludge in the engine.. but maybe its a fuel pump or ac condenser which was frozen up and that's stopping the engine from turning.. the repair guy put it up on a lift and tried to turn a bolt on the front of the engine.. or said he was trying.. i asked him if turning the fan would tell but he said no that there are gears that make the fan move anyway..

i just spoke with the AAA guy's manager, he is going to test my original battery and if its really still good then he will return it for a refund.. but when i told him that they said the engine is no good he was all about yea its likely that i ran the car without oil and that would kill the car in a mile or so..

i called the shop this morning to tell them not to start tearing down the engine for diagnosis and the manager tells me that they didn't do anything to the engine, he just knows from experiance that he is 99% sure the engine is junk so he is going to call around for prices for me.. if i just want the thing out of there i owe them $75 for looking at it.... tow truck driver told me that the father left the buisness to the son's..


so if someone here can tell me if i just fell for one of those guys who says "my friend can fix it" who gets a kick back from friend from every stranded girl that he comes across.. (only other customer i saw was a girl about to leave, like 2 other cars in the shop which has room for a few more) or should i be just trying to put some jumpers on this and see if it will start or do i really have a junk engine i would really appreciate it..

thank you much
lin

Response From Guest

thanks for the info.. just got back from arranging the tow to my house.

i don't have spark plug socket.. i am really bad at that stuff... lawn mower has been waiting for a spark plug to appear for almost 2 years now..

i thought that the first thing i would do is try to jump it..

i can't hurt it doing that right?

but i did see that there is a lot of sludge stuff in the engine where the oil goes in..

i get oil changed 2x year.. i drive less than 3 thousand miles in a year but i have it changed anyway

the good news is that i only go to the gas station every 7 weeks or so..

:)

Response From dmac0923

something def sounds a little fishy here. If the engine is seized its..........well pretty much fuzed together. you wouldnt hear clicking noises for sure. you might get a grind out of the starter bendix since the flywheel wouldnt move.

i would have it towed to another shop.

unfortunately in your story you didnt get to specific about the cars symptoms. are there any check engine lights on?

i would be most likely to point to the charging system.

Response From Guest

hello dmac,

thank you for helping.. please tell me what other information you need?
as i said the only indication that i had a problem was the oil light started coming on right after i checked the oil.. i thought the two were some how related..

the oil light went off then came on again, i only drove the car a total of 4 times a with the light on .. one of them being the trip home from the gas station where i checked it initially, and two of them being the occasions where i broke down... after the first one, i drove one of my children's friends home, about 5 or 6 miles round trip.. i also kept an eye on the temp gauge it was not running warm at all..

now i just had the battery guy call to tell me that he is sure that my battery is no good, that it had a date of april, first he said '05 then changed to '04 and so it was too old.. when i pointed out that he had just sold me a battery with a 6 YEAR warrante on it so it didn't seem to me that 4 years even was too long.. but he said he just gives that long a warrante because he wants his customers "to feel like they will not have to change their battery every two years".. he also told me that 25% of his 350 battery calls a WEEK are from people who just pull into the gas station for gas and the car will not start because the battery just dies.. that these batteries don't give any indication that they are about to become useless.


the repair man at the shop had a real hard time to explain to me how he knew that the trouble wasn't just the voltage regulator.. he said that part doesn't go before the alternator goes..

the battery guy and the repair guy have spoken with each other and decided that i coincidentally had 2 different problems occur at the same time

but you don't think its the engine right? the repair guy has told me that the only replacement engine he could find has 100 k miles on it and it costs almost 3 grand.. when i told him that i saw one on ebay for 1200 he said that if i provided the engine and all the parts then he would replace it for 700 but if the engine turned out to be junk that he was not going to put in another one free or anything.. which makes sense.

my question now .. is there anything that they can do to it at the shop to make sure it is seized up? because i told him, quite truthfully that i can not afford anything like that for several months at best.. so he said i should have it towed home and wait till i have the money saved up..

thank you again .. i wish i could be more succinct with my explanation but i am trying to give as much information as i can...

Response From dmac0923


the repair guy has told me that the only replacement engine he could find has 100 k miles on it and it costs almost 3 grand..




to me thats a red flag right there that this guy is trying to take you for a ride. for 3 grand you can pretty much go right to the dealer and buy a brand new one yourself.

first step is to tow the car out of that shop. that place seems like shady central.

if the car were in your driveway/garage you could remove the spark plugs and then take a ratchet & socket onto the harmonic balancer. that would rotate the engine. (removing the spark plugs just makes the engine easier to turn since your not building up cylinder compression.)

Response From Guest

hello tom,

thanks for the info.. i don't get any colorful light warning system .. light just came on.. like i said it went off after a mile or so but came back on again.. always orange color.. nothing red, and the temp stayed where it usually does, below center, i watched for that one.

its a great little car, all paid for, i don't think i could get another car like this one for the price of the engine.... i hope its not bad but i got it here just b4 dark so didn't fuss with it.

i see a used engine on ebay for about $1200, i will have to save up but i would rather save then be in debt .. do you think that ebay is a reasonable place to get a used engine or not? i don't see a lot of these cars sold second hand, i haven't looked too far for engine since this whole thing has cost me $200 and i have ended with a still broken car :(
thanks again for your help though .. i really appreciate it !

lin

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Arggh! To answer the subject line question - YES - an engine can be rendered junk in a couple minutes with total lack of lubrication. Full oil is not indicative of whether it can make oil pressure which is what that warning was about - not the level.

You drove it no doubt with a RED oil warning. Just glance at your owner's manual and see what it says about that light! Game over for that engine usually. There are warning light that tell you to "check oil" but those should be amber lights suggesting it's low which you said you found it wasn't so it was a true oil pressure problem.

Sure sounds like you had lousy luck with the tow driver and a shop so far and some slow advice on what shouldn't be that hard to determine. If it won't turn by the crankshaft bolt it's big trouble no matter how you slice it.

Get some competent help and pick the best way out of this for you. Used engine, new major engine parts or bail out of this car now and cut your losses is my suggestion,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

lin,

Just some notes on this mess:

I don't think you were properly advised or treated by the first responders when you broke down. AAA has always proven to me to be a responsible organization. I'm a member myself if for no more than discounted rates on car insurance and other things it's worth it.

Call them with your story and see if they can help you or perhaps reimburse some money. I'm not there but it sure seems like you got sold a battery real quick when that could have been known that it wouldn't fix all the troubles even if you needed a new battery.

Oil warnings of any type: Oil is the lifeblood of an engine. Engines can survive overheats, bad batteries, alternators - all sorts of troubles but metal to metal operation caused by lack of oil lubrication means very serious trouble and quickly. Most of the time oil warning lights would also mean low oil level but don't confuse that. I don't know exactly what set up or colors are used for this car but near universally RED means action needed right away and amber warning mean ASAP or soon. Some vehicles have a "low oil" or "check oil" suggestion light which means check the level real soon but not meaning impending doom for the engine.

Know that oil in an engine is actually preventing actual metal to metal contact such that all those fast moving parts are riding on a film of oil. When that ceases the metal touches metal in assorted areas, ---- bearings, piston to cylinder walls and more and can VERY quickly heat up from friction and weld itself or seizes up. In rare cases some can be freed up and run again - it'a a maybe that needs to be determined.

I'd really like to see you seek out a professional opinion on what is best for this. If it seized then make sure it really did - then find out from local salvage yards what a guaranteed used engine costs and ask them who installs their engines. When an engine does seize from lack of lubrication it picks on what I'll call the lower end and sometimes a "short block" or a "long block" would be advised as the best fix. Those should be available new or rebuilt and priced accordingly.

Ebay may have the prices but how do you know what you are getting and what recourse do you have if an engine bought on line blows up right away? It scares me to use that for this problem. Your call - you may know better about that part. Local to me are a couple good salvage yards that check engines on their incoming cars while they can still run them in a wrecked car like from a collision which kind of proves it was running when totalled for parts.

Wish you luck. Certainly it's no fun right now,

T

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

hello tom,

just an update, Saturday a girlfriends hubby took a look and found the belt off and the alternator really loose.. i personally think that they did that at the garage since i think i had seen the belt on before, i have a feeling they didn't want me to just go home and start it up.
i am not sure about the loose part, and i don't know what else they could have done to disable the car, after talking to you guys i got the idea that i was in with a really unscrupulous bunch there....

he put the belt on and we put some jumpers on the car but couldn't get it to start.. we only let them charge for about 4 or 5 minuets, i don't know if that is enough, and it seemed that there was not a really good connection..

but there is something going on with the oil spraying on the engine, though he said it didn't look like a really major thing ..

my helpful friends have a shop that they use and are very happy with so i will likely go there .. need to get some money together first.. child home from college for holiday kills the bank account quickly

like i said i haven't had a light go on in the 7 years i have had the car.. and the fact that it went on right after i changed the oil made me think those two events were related, apparently the car was really trying to tell me something, but the odds of it developing an oil problem moments after i checked the oil seemed slim.. but i am sure that stranger things have happened..

as for AAA, i was thinking that it was a good thing to have, but when i spoke with them they just referred me to the battery guy .. i will give them a call back and speak to them again but if there was like a broken oil pump or bad starter/ alternator or something .. are they supposed to be able to tell that on the side of the road..? i am not sure what to expect from them, i didn't expect to get what i got..

if the guy had said to me, lady your battery is fine because you just started the car up, but if you want to have me follow you to a shop or be towed to a shop so that you can find out what is wrong and not be stranded on the side of the road again the very next time you try to go somewhere .. well that would have actually been helpful..

the way i am looking at this right now, i paid out $200, i got my car towed home.. in between the start and the end of that i just got picked on by mean guy's..

i tend to work into the wee hours of the morning, i once booked a flight at about 3:30 in the morning and the lady who was helping me must have been bored out of her mind because she kept"trying one more thing" to see if she could get me a lower fare, and i got a pretty good deal; maybe if i call in the middle of the night i will get someone who has the time to listen.. they will likely need a supervisor or someone who works the day job to make any money decisions

if you can think of anything else i should look for that the shop guys might have done to make sure it looks like i have a seized engine i would appreciate knowing that.. i looked around quick to see if it looked like any major bolts had been removed and put back . i didn't see anything like that.. but i don't know what or where to look really..

thank you again.. i greatly appreciate your help, everyone's help.. if i have to have a broken car, at least i finally got some nice people to help me with it.. that's the best thing..

have a great night :)
lin

p.s. i am going to save the posts so short and long block type stuff makes sense to me when i go to get it fixed for real..

:)

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

All of the above advise is correct. Get it out of that shop NOW. Sounds like a part out of "Deliverance". I would definitely call AAA and let them know about your experience.And, to take you to a different shop than what you requested? For the tow driver to force you into buying a battery is unbelievable. Probably just needed the connections thouroughly cleaned. An alternator can't charge a battery if the connections aren't good. The oil thing; Sounds like you lost oil pressure. In the future, I'd recommend changing the oil and filter every three months. Short drives are very detrimental...The engine needs to get HOT to burn off contaminates in the crankcase. Short drives don't accomplish that. Good luck.

Response From Guest

hi landd,

i spoke with AAA about this, they had the man who runs the battery area call me, they are not going to do anything..

tonight heard from a neighbor how AAA battery guy attached the cables backwards on that man's dad's car and killed it off.. i am beginning to suspect that the retirees who are not working in the super stores are at the AAA service centers..

i know the oil is supposed to be like blood.. maybe cuz my blood seems just fine i keep thinking that the car's oil is alright as long as it is full, i do put in some marvelious mystery oil once in a while..

i thought they were going to make a car for women that spoke to us like that navigation system does.. "hurry up and fix something will ya?" there is a nice product line..

i know that they like to be driven, i just live near everything..

if stacking 14 boxes on top of a bike wouldn't be a hazard to the general population i would just take that to the post office

i have a cruiser that i got at auction from the local police for my daughter.. great car for teen, built to crash, mandatory maintenance work, lousy on gas so they don't drive all over the place, and in traffic everyone gets off the cell phones and sits up ..

so now i guess having the thing sit while i save up some money will not hurt it.. that is if it is really gone.. like i said i will try the jumpers tomorrow..

i think that the original problem was stuff built up on the battery, and since i got nothing when i stopped on the second break down until i wiggled the connections, after which i got the click, then i might have something wrong like the belt slipping from all the oil which seems to have sprayed all over the front of the engine.. which i don't know where that came from but i have lots of spots on the driveway..
that's probably important too huh..?

if the engine seized wouldn't it make some noise? neighbor said to try to put it in drive or reverse tomorrow and see if i can push the car around.. he seemed to think that if it was a frozen engine that the car would not move.. that makes sense unless the car only uses the wheels to move...

you know Ford's estate isn't far from here, maybe i could get one of those cars..

are the electric cars going to need oil? i hear a lot about those coming out soon.

but thank you again for your help, i will let you guys know if it moves or jumps tomorrow..

have a great night :)
lin