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Best Selling Genuine Subaru Oil Pumps

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Genuine
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Subaru Replacement Oil Pump Parts

We stock Oil Pump parts for most Subaru models, including Baja, Brat, Forester, GL, Impreza, Legacy, Outback.

Genuine
1998 Subaru Forester Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4005DCB    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/1998-, This pump assembly includes the housing, gears, back cover, and pressure relief valve assembly. Also required (but not included) are front crank seal 80673 3020 (thru 1999 models) or 80673 3030 (2000+ models) and o-ring 80691 9050 (thru 9/97) or 10991 AA000 (10/97 and later). Other gaskets are not used between the pump and the crankcase; use the appropriate liquid gasket sealant as necessary.
Brand: Genuine
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Vehicle
1998 - Subaru Forester
Genuine
2000 Subaru Forester Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4005DCB    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • This pump assembly includes the housing, gears, back cover, and pressure relief valve assembly. Also required (but not included) are front crank seal 80673 3020 (thru 1999 models) or 80673 3030 (2000+ models) and o-ring 80691 9050 (thru 9/97) or 10991 AA000 (10/97 and later). Other gaskets are not used between the pump and the crankcase; use the appropriate liquid gasket sealant as necessary.
Brand: Genuine
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Subaru Forester
Genuine
2002 Subaru Impreza Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4005DCB    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 03/2001-, This pump assembly includes the housing, gears, back cover, and pressure relief valve assembly. Also required (but not included) are front crank seal 80673 3020 (thru 1999 models) or 80673 3030 (2000+ models) and o-ring 80691 9050 (thru 9/97) or 10991 AA000 (10/97 and later). Other gaskets are not used between the pump and the crankcase; use the appropriate liquid gasket sealant as necessary.
Brand: Genuine
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Subaru Impreza
Genuine
1999 Subaru Legacy Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4005DCB    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -05/1999, This pump assembly includes the housing, gears, back cover, and pressure relief valve assembly. Also required (but not included) are front crank seal 80673 3020 (thru 1999 models) or 80673 3030 (2000+ models) and o-ring 80691 9050 (thru 9/97) or 10991 AA000 (10/97 and later). Other gaskets are not used between the pump and the crankcase; use the appropriate liquid gasket sealant as necessary.
Brand: Genuine
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Subaru Legacy
Genuine
1996 Subaru Legacy Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4005DCB    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 06/1995-05/1996, This pump assembly includes the housing, gears, back cover, and pressure relief valve assembly. Also required (but not included) are front crank seal 80673 3020 (thru 1999 models) or 80673 3030 (2000+ models) and o-ring 80691 9050 (thru 9/97) or 10991 AA000 (10/97 and later). Other gaskets are not used between the pump and the crankcase; use the appropriate liquid gasket sealant as necessary.
Brand: Genuine
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Subaru Legacy
Genuine
1996 Subaru Impreza Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4005DCB    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 07/1995-, This pump assembly includes the housing, gears, back cover, and pressure relief valve assembly. Also required (but not included) are front crank seal 80673 3020 (thru 1999 models) or 80673 3030 (2000+ models) and o-ring 80691 9050 (thru 9/97) or 10991 AA000 (10/97 and later). Other gaskets are not used between the pump and the crankcase; use the appropriate liquid gasket sealant as necessary.
Brand: Genuine
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Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Subaru Impreza
Genuine
2001 Subaru Impreza Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4005DCB    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -03/2001, This pump assembly includes the housing, gears, back cover, and pressure relief valve assembly. Also required (but not included) are front crank seal 80673 3020 (thru 1999 models) or 80673 3030 (2000+ models) and o-ring 80691 9050 (thru 9/97) or 10991 AA000 (10/97 and later). Other gaskets are not used between the pump and the crankcase; use the appropriate liquid gasket sealant as necessary.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Subaru Impreza
Genuine
1993 Subaru Impreza Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4005DCB    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 11/1992-, This pump assembly includes the housing, gears, back cover, and pressure relief valve assembly. Also required (but not included) are front crank seal 80673 3020 (thru 1999 models) or 80673 3030 (2000+ models) and o-ring 80691 9050 (thru 9/97) or 10991 AA000 (10/97 and later). Other gaskets are not used between the pump and the crankcase; use the appropriate liquid gasket sealant as necessary.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1993 - Subaru Impreza
Genuine
1995 Subaru Impreza Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4005DCB    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 08/1994-, This pump assembly includes the housing, gears, back cover, and pressure relief valve assembly. Also required (but not included) are front crank seal 80673 3020 (thru 1999 models) or 80673 3030 (2000+ models) and o-ring 80691 9050 (thru 9/97) or 10991 AA000 (10/97 and later). Other gaskets are not used between the pump and the crankcase; use the appropriate liquid gasket sealant as necessary.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Subaru Impreza
Genuine
1995 Subaru Legacy Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4005DCB    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 03/1994-, This pump assembly includes the housing, gears, back cover, and pressure relief valve assembly. Also required (but not included) are front crank seal 80673 3020 (thru 1999 models) or 80673 3030 (2000+ models) and o-ring 80691 9050 (thru 9/97) or 10991 AA000 (10/97 and later). Other gaskets are not used between the pump and the crankcase; use the appropriate liquid gasket sealant as necessary.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Subaru Legacy
Genuine
2003 Subaru Baja Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-43D1179    New

Qty:
$196.55
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - Subaru Baja
Genuine
2004 Subaru Baja Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4260C8B    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Subaru Baja
Genuine
1998 Subaru Forester Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4260C8B    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 05/1997-06/1998
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Subaru Forester
Genuine
1999 Subaru Forester Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4260C8B    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -06/1998
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Subaru Forester
Genuine
1996 Subaru Legacy Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4260C8B    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 06/1995-
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Subaru Legacy
Genuine
1999 Subaru Legacy Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4260C8B    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -05/1999
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Subaru Legacy
Genuine
1998 Subaru Impreza Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4260C8B    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 06/1997-06/1998
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - Subaru Impreza
Genuine
2002 Subaru Impreza Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4260C8B    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 03/2001-
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2002 - Subaru Impreza
Genuine
2004 Subaru Impreza Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-4260C8B    New

Qty:
$191.37
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 04/2003-
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Subaru Impreza
Genuine
2008 Subaru Legacy Engine Oil Pump Genuine

P311-59B7114    New

Qty:
$194.06
Genuine Engine Oil Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Subaru Legacy

Latest Subaru Repair and Oil Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

engine trouble with subaru EA81 engine

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From dadoze3 on engine trouble with subaru EA81 engine

I recently rolled my 1982 subaru brat onto its side. I let it sit for 2 hours before starting. Started and idled fine, no wierd engine noise. Started driving an lost oil pressure because I assume it leaked out when on its side. Filled it back up with oil. Started it back up and the oil pressure returned. 1-2 minutes down the road I lost oil pressure the engine started making a slight "ticking" noise, so I shut it down again. Checked the oil level and it was full. Had to drive it home about 1 minute away, and by the time I got home, I had lost oil pressure again and the engine started making a slight "ticking" noise again, this time noticably louder. Let sit for 3 days and tried starting it up again. My oil level still full so I started it again and the ticking noise was much worse and still rythmic. I do not know much about engines. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks, corey

Response From dog_4003 Top Rated Answer

been as it was on its side the oil pump might need to be reprimed they can be hard to get it to pick up the oil without priming but i would say the worst case would be bad main bearings or bad oil pump all thow its very not common that the pump it self would be bad try repriming the pump first

Input shaft o-ring wrong size and now I have trouble Subaru Outback

Showing 2 out of 22 Posts | Show 20 Hidden Posts
Question From Lverano on Input shaft o-ring wrong size and now I have trouble Subaru Outback

I believe I installed wrong size o-ring in the groove of my Subaru Outback transmission input shaft. The o-ring was a little big and did not fit snug. I drove the car for a while with no problems at all, then all of a sudden all gears except 1st and second went bye bye. I didn't realize such a little o-ring would create such problems. How is this possible? What does that little o-ring actually do?
2001 Subaru Outback VDC H6

Response From gsferraro

Hello,
Question, do you have reverse? Also, what was done to the trans?

Response From Lverano

I had the motor out cause I did a motor swap. The transmission was good. I replaced the o-ring while the motor was out. Yes, I have reverse. Thanks for the reply.

Response From gsferraro

Ok, when this shifts to 3rd, does it rev up like its in neutral or does the trans just stay in 2nd? The o ring on the input shaft is used for torque converter clutch application. Are there any codes present for the trans? How long did you drive this car for before issues with the trans?

Response From Lverano

It revs like it's in neutral in 3rd gear or higher. You can drive it really slow, but as soon as you try to go above 25 or 30mph it just revs. I drove it home with the automatic shifter in 2nd gear. The car drove perfect for about 20 miles. I stopped at a light and it stalled out. When I started it back up all gears except 1 and 2 (and reverse) were missing when I took off. I didn't check the code. Check engine light went off. I can say for sure the o-ring on the input shaft was very loose and not tight fitting when I installed it. Out of that 20 mile drive, most of it was in the city at slow speeds.

Response From gsferraro

This possibly could be caused by a few issues. I will explain how this trans works. First, this unit called the 4EAT, has the same design as a nissan pathfinder(say a 2002 model year), inside the trans pump there is whats called a pump slide and a pump slide actuator. The pump slide moves to increase pump pressure when it goes into the higher gears or when higher pressure is called for. The pump slide actuator is constanly moving back and fourth, by doing this it develops burrs and sticks in the low pressure positon causing the high clutch to burn out due to lack of pressure to keep the clutch applied.

Now im not sure if a subaru has this, but another issue that can cause what your feeling is a stuck WOT(wide open throttle)switch. A stuck WOT switch will cause the solenoid to become energized before the 2-3 shift takes place causing a cut-loose or over-speed on the 2-3 shift. Pull the dipstick out and see if the fluid smells burnt. Gary

Response From Lverano

not sure what any of that has to do with an o-ring, is what you are saying a result of the o-ring being the wrong size? The transmission was perfect prior to installing the wrong size input shaft o-ring. It's as simple as that. If there is fluid blowing past the o-ring when it should not be, then what happens? That's my question. Thanks for your help.

Response From gsferraro

The o ring is for torque converter clutch application or the lock-up function the transmission has. Lock-up is when the transmission locks to engine rotation and you would get around a 200 rpm drop, with the o-ring not there or broken the converter cannot lock-up. Almost every automatic transmission that has the lock-up function takes an o-ring on the input shaft, with the o-ring left out trans cannot lock-up. Lock-up comes in around 45mph, with the function not working, the trans will produce a trouble code and run hotter than normal.

Response From Lverano

Does this somehow contribute or translate to no gears like I've described? Is that possible? Thanks, Lester.

Response From Discretesignals

I'd say if you installed the incorrect o ring, you should take it back apart and install the correct o ring. Then see how it operates. If it works fine after that, you'll know your answer. Either way it should have the correct o ring installed for proper TCC operation.

Response From gsferraro

If it feels like it goes into neutral when shifting to 3rd gear, i would think you have a 3rd clutch problem, the o-ring seals the torque converter circuit does not seal the 3rd clutch circuit.

Response From Lverano

If it feels like it goes into neutral when shifting to 3rd gear, i would think you have a 3rd clutch problem, the o-ring seals the torque converter circuit does not seal the 3rd clutch circuit.

I'm just going to replace the o-ring. I know I seated the torque converter correctly. I know the shaft I pulled out at one point, and then slid it back in all the way by hand until I couldn't turn it by hand. I don't know if that had to be finessed a certain way similar to how the torque is seated. I'm very fresh and new to learning about transmissions. Appreciate the help. I'm sure this forum will come in handy for someone.

Response From gsferraro

Can you please let us know how it goes

Response From Lverano

(links not allowed especially to another site)
You've had Gary's attention on this to check and do things all along. You know you screwed up and blew this transmission already don't you?
T

Response From Lverano

Yes, T, but not 100%. Maybe like 70% sure, but so hoping that everything was ok that it came down to being only like 20% thinking things were
Screwed.
(changed a word not allowed

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Bummer. Wait for Gary to see if you can get out of this or another core at least needed? I know about what you did to smash it just haven't done that.
Please don't use properly spelled "bad" words. I changed it so something more PG rated.


Family friendly site please no matter how frustrated we can get,


Tom

Response From Lverano

nah, it's over for the Subie. I promised no more money was going in it. It's got rust, and that's the only reason i'm not searching out a used VDC transmission on ebay right now and moving forward. I am confident I could definitely do it, but it's just not worth it. I'm going to find a better donor car that needs, or will be needing a good engine. The JDM I have is ready and waiting when needed.

I'm not frustrated. I'm satisfied. I pretty much taught myself how to completely swap an engine, and besides destroying my transmission, which I would not do again, I did everything perfectly on my first try. I learned a heck of a lot. The car is a 2001 with 176,000 miles. The transmission could have gone a lot longer, but screwing it was the price of admission for a semester in 101 mechanics, school of hard knocks style.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Glad you've made up you mind on the car as a whole anyway and sorry a lesson learned had to be such a critical one.


Good luck with your next car and project,


T

Response From Lverano Top Rated Answer

Well ironically the O-ring was absolutely fine, and as a matter fact it did just what I thought it would do, it got compressed and it ended up sitting beautifully inside the groove on the input shaft.

Unfortunately early in the process of removing my engine, which was the first time I've ever removed an engine, I forgot to unbolt the torque converter. So as it happened about a year ago at the beginning of this project, I was pulling the engine for the first time. I ended up dropping the weight of the engine on the end of the input shaft accidentally, while the torque converter was still bolted to the flexplate. I thought I might've caused some damage, but I ended up convincing myself I got away with it.

I'll try to add a picture of the carnage. So what happened is the metal casing inside of the transmission got cracked. This explains why my car was driving so great initially on my test drive, it was initially just a crack, but ultimately the crack spread until the shaft casing snapped clean off and the rest is history.

I'm not really sure what part is cracked. it looks like a different kind of metal. I also wouldn't be surprised if all the damage was from when I bolted the engine to the transmission bell housing without having the torque converter fully seated, which is a well know way to crack the oil pump/ oil pump body/housing.

Response From Lverano

Did a cold start today and no gears at all.... I'm beginning to wonder what an o-ring is really gonna do for that....

Response From Lverano

Can you please let us know how it goes

Yes. It might be a week or more. I May post a test drive YouTube video or something. Keep me posted.

Response From Lverano

Yep that mission will be started in the upcoming week. (Replacing o-ring)

Oil pressure too high ?

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From mariopouliot on Oil pressure too high ?

I installed an electrical oil pressure gauge when I did my 500 miles oil and filter change on a just rebuilt 2.2 L Subaru 1990 Legacy non turbo engine. I was surprised to see a steady high oil pressure reading. It was 30psi at idle, when it should be 14-26 psi at 2000rpm. It is also reading 60 psi at 3000 rpm when it should be 35-45 psi at 4000 rpm. I did install a new oil pump when I did the rebuild. Did I do something wrong there? Any idea as to what could be the problem?

Response From DanD

I would have the accuracy of the electrical gauge tested by having a mechanical test gauge temporarily installed and then compare readings.
Dan.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Low should never drop below 20psi! High would bypass by a spring type device (like a radiator cap does for cooling system pressure on ones where you can see them) at about 60psi. Sounds somewhat normal to me with new bearings and little leakdown now. Correct me if I'm wrong??

Hey - don't be revving the engine to 4,000 RPM - that's too much without a load on it,

T