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Sealed Power
1988 Eagle Premier Engine Oil Pump 4 Cyl 2.5L Sealed Power

P311-46983D7    224-41198  New

OM-81-A , 50215 , 601-1173 , 3237844 , HM81A , 6011173 , DM81A , 41198U , OP81A , M81A , OP530A , EP81A

Sealed Power Engine Oil Pump
  • Engine Oil Pump
  • Standard Volume and Pressure Does Not Include Oil Pump Screen
  • Sealed Power® parts provide innovative designs, use leading-edge materials and utilize ISO & QS certified manufacturing in order to deliver top quality products that meet the rigorous demands of today's modern engines.
Brand: Sealed Power
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type Block Engine CID CC
1988 - Eagle Premier OHV L 4 Cyl 2.5L 150 -

Latest Eagle Repair and Oil Pump Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

[Help Needed] Compilation of Car Repair / Tech. Q & A

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Ploofafa on [Help Needed] Compilation of Car Repair / Tech. Q & A

I am trying to locate 31 great questions about common, or not so common, car problems. Think of it as a small guide for the car-illiterate (much as I am).

I thank you all for the assistance you can provide.

Response From nickwarner

First off, please don't take what I say as condescending, but as friendly advice. When you look at problems people have had in the past and the fixes that got them on the road, realize that a majority of the problems have multiple causes. There are posts all the time by people destined to save a buck who go replace every single sensor in an engine, the computer and many other parts to only have the same problem. If they had the problem properly diagnosed the first time they actually would've come out AHEAD monetarily after so many unneeded parts were installed. I applaud you for taking an interest in your car repair and everyone looks to save a buck. If you want to learn how to diagnose and replace some parts on your car then you are a more involved owner than many who only do something when the car will no longer move and substantial damage is done. Get a good shop manual for the exact vehicle you have and look through it. But if you have pretty much no tools and all are made in china, do yourself a favor now and either invest in a decent set or don't bother. I'm losing track of how many jobs have been towed to me because of inexperience and substandard tools. Realize that good tools aren't a cost, they are an investment. This forum can help you quite a bit as a novice. There are many people who make their professional living as mechanics as I do who can talk you through troubles you may have with your car. Certain things will be beyond your ability and its a smart man who admits that. I know you want to save your money doing it yourself, but realize that us pros have 50 to 100 THOUSAND in our toolsets by retirement commonly. Thats why this costs so much. I just bought a scanner last week for my shop and it was $4000! I needed it or I wouldn't buy it. Would I rather rent a cabin up north for me and my girl to have a great weekend? Yes. But I bought that instead. Those of us in the industry spend a lot of money and thats why it costs good money for repairs. But you get good repairs for your money because of it. Please feel free to post anytime you need info on a problem, and give all the details you can (the post that says "read this so we can help you" needs to be viewed). We will find the information you need. Its what we do. Help us help you

Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

Here are some typical questions that have stumped the best.

1970 buick skylark 350 v8 4dr sedan. to make it short....broke distributer base, bent shaft to oil pump, scored gears so oil pump will not seat.
mechanic states will try to resurface, i know this can't be done. next message he states he replaced scored gear and got car started, will be replacing oil pump in morning.
mind you, this is not a shop which works on cars as aged as mine. i would like to know, where he got the gear, then the oil pump. did he just install oil pump repair kit? or what??

Umm..I want to find "The biggest auto repair shop in asia" and I just can't find anything.If anybody know ..please let me know how ,where it is.
Thank you for every answer --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I am totally baffaled as to what is wrong with my 96 Ford Ranger..I fixed the muffler pipe by the flange and then the truck wouldnt start.. realizing that the starter(once I tapped it)had a problem, I replaced that and when I went to place it(the starter) into position It grounded and sparked.. thinking no big deal, I continued to replace the Large wire that leads from the starter to the solenoid which had rusted off at the end, (Before this when I turned the key I would at least get a click in the solenoid).So I thought, maybe I blew the solenoid.. so , After replacing the solenoid I tried the ignition again. now I get Nothing!! not even a click in the solenoid. I have no lights, nothing.. I even replaced the battery thinking It must not be any good, I should at least get my headlights to work! I have checked my fuses, both inside and under the hood, nothing seems wrong.. Please if anybody has any answers or suggestions.. I would love to hear them.

I have a '95 Eagle Vision TSI 3.5L V6. I was driving it down the highway and when I activated the Cruse the car died.

I thought it was the fuel pump, but I tested that theory.

Then I checked to see if it was getting any spark. It was not firing.

What should I do now, or should I just take it in to a mechinic. I am a novist at repair. '

my SR5 light turned on a week ago or so...does anyone know why it could be on? it was never on before...i dont think its supposed to be on....

Just thought I would show you what we are up against sometimes.

Chrome flakes in oil pan

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From ratrace2 on Chrome flakes in oil pan

Well, I finally did it!!!! I changed the oil pan gasket on my:

1998 Chevy S-10, 2.2 Liter LN4 (RWD) Automatic (4L60E).

I could see in the pan that there was a thin layer of sludge and in the sludge was small
chrome/glitter like flakes that look like chrome.

With 0ver 220,000 miles on the little puddle jumper the oil pan was leaking more and more across the
exhauset cross over pipe. I was constantly wondering if I was on fire because of the smell of burning oil.
Given that book calls for the engine removal for this repair....."which is true"....I don't know if it's worth it
....Just a note to all that need to know..................

Any suggestions on what the chrome flakes are from will be appreciated.......Mostly, and Much..........

Response From Hammer Time

Personally, I think you would be throwing money away on that. The flakes are probably engine bearing material, meaning the engine has a very short life expectancy. With that mileage, I'd be looking for another motor.

Response From ratrace2

So, it's not just the cam lobes flaking off??????

Response From Hammer Time

Even if it was, that's just as serious and just as terminal.

Response From ratrace2

I found this on ebay.com

#110656505966 complete engine

it's a GM 2.2 Liter L4 Vortec 2200.

Some say it will fit, some say it will not fit.....Hum

How could I know for sure??

Response From Hammer Time

I wouldn't be buying anything on E-Bay for that. Unless that motor is the exact same as the one you're removing, you will have big headaches. Buy it locally or at least from a reputable remanufacturer and save yourself a lot of hassles.

Response From ratrace2

I agree,
I was just talking to my buddy JP (JP auto Service Center).

and he was having idle issues with an 05 escape that was outfitted with a 08 for motor........
constantly sending error DTC codes for out of parameter idle condition....

Hammer......................you are the best..............................Always.......

Response From Hammer Time

The operating system was engineered for one specific setup and isn't compatible when that stuff is changed around.

Response From ratrace2 Top Rated Answer

The final answer on Chorme Flakes:

It was the Cam:
A roller lifter turned sideways, breaking the lifter guide, and cut a groove into the cam until the motor started to miss.

Over the summer, I knew the life of my motor was limited, I went to "junking" around New Jersey and Pennsylvania and found a 1998 2.2 Ln2 engine and tranny out of an s10.

I pulled both and sent the engine carcass to the machine shop:
Not too bad, honed the cylinders and polished the crank, that is all it needed.
I got some new rings, bearings, oil pump, push rods and all the gaskets and put it back together.......my first motor job in 20 years...............wow that was fun..
I had the head done, full valve job...........it looked good too.........

I put the motor in the truck on 10/10/11 and it runs great.

I took a little time and ported and polished the heads for better flow. cleaned everything up and it's all good.

Shortly after that, I sent the original motor to the machine shop and had the cylinder cut .020 over and had the crank polished $450 Eddies Valve Grinding in Sayerville did it for me.
I'm looking at some Wiseco Forged pistons and Eagle rods........I might turbo the new motor.

Response From ratrace2

after 4109 miles on the new motor can we say that the rebuild was a success????

I think it's a GO........................................we got a keeper......

Oh yea, Thanks Much Hammer..............................you are the best.

Response From Hammer Time

You're welcome