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Genuine
2001 BMW M5 Engine Oil Pan Genuine - Lower

P311-4D47804    W0133-1795873  New

Qty:
$543.05
Genuine Engine Oil Pan
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Lower
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - BMW M5
Genuine
1995 BMW 318is Engine Oil Pan Genuine

P311-176B224    W0133-1795874  New

Qty:
$591.24
Genuine Engine Oil Pan
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Production: 09/01/1995-
  • (1) 11 13 1 717 720 Cover is Required
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1995 - BMW 318is Fr:09-01-95
Genuine
1997 BMW 318i Engine Oil Pan Genuine

P311-176B224    W0133-1795874  New

Qty:
$591.24
Genuine Engine Oil Pan
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • (1) 11 13 1 717 720 Cover is Required
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - BMW 318i
MTC
1994 BMW 530i Engine Oil Pan MTC

P311-5E41305    W0133-1599325  New

Qty:
$85.41
MTC Engine Oil Pan
  • ; Oil sender O-ring 12 61 1 744 292 should also be replaced.
  • Lower
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - BMW 530i
Genuine
1995 BMW 530i Engine Oil Pan Genuine

P311-5BFB0B3    W0133-1599325  New

Qty:
$326.79
Genuine Engine Oil Pan
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • ; Oil sender O-ring 12 61 1 744 292 should also be replaced.
  • Lower
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - BMW 530i
MTC
1998 BMW 540i Engine Oil Pan MTC

P311-5E41305    W0133-1599325  New

Qty:
$85.41
MTC Engine Oil Pan
  • ; Oil sender O-ring 12 61 1 744 292 should also be replaced.
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1998 - BMW 540i
APA/URO Parts
1991 BMW 318is Engine Oil Pan APA/URO Parts

P311-0DDF683    W0133-1603389  New

Qty:
$135.26
APA/URO Parts Engine Oil Pan
  • ; w/o Leveling Switch
  • Lower
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - BMW 318is
MTC
1984 BMW 325e Engine Oil Pan MTC

P311-4EDEF04    W0133-1598663  New

Qty:
$402.11
MTC Engine Oil Pan
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1984 - BMW 325e
MTC
1994 BMW 318i Engine Oil Pan MTC

P311-1D2CF60    W0133-1598361  New

Qty:
$160.23
MTC Engine Oil Pan
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - BMW 318i
MTC
1995 BMW 318is Engine Oil Pan MTC

P311-1D2CF60    W0133-1598361  New

Qty:
$160.23
MTC Engine Oil Pan
  • ; Production: -08/31/1995
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
1995 - BMW 318is To:08-31-95
MTC
2002 BMW X5 Engine Oil Pan 8 Cyl 4.4L MTC - Lower

P311-0704DC1    W0133-1795884  New

Qty:
$106.02
MTC Engine Oil Pan
  • Lower
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2002 - BMW X5 V 8 Cyl 4.4L - 4398
Genuine
2001 BMW X5 Engine Oil Pan 8 Cyl 4.4L Genuine - Lower

P311-59D22F8    W0133-1795884  New

Qty:
$562.87
Genuine Engine Oil Pan
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Lower
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - BMW X5 V 8 Cyl 4.4L - 4398
MTC
2001 BMW 325xi Engine Oil Pan MTC

P311-07DE67A    W0133-1795887  New

Qty:
$351.04
MTC Engine Oil Pan
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - BMW 325xi
MTC
2006 BMW 325i Engine Oil Pan MTC - w/o Gasket or Bolts

P311-5EC12C5    W0133-1795903  New

Qty:
$491.45
MTC Engine Oil Pan
  • Must also replace set of aluminum screws 11 13 2 210 959
  • w/o Gasket or Bolts
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission
2006 - BMW 325i Automatic
MTC
2007 BMW 530i Engine Oil Pan MTC - w/o Gasket or Bolts

P311-5EC12C5    W0133-1795903  New

Qty:
$491.45
MTC Engine Oil Pan
  • w/o Gasket or Bolts
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - BMW 530i
MTC
2008 BMW 128i Engine Oil Pan MTC - w/o Gasket or Bolts

P311-5EC12C5    W0133-1795903  New

Qty:
$491.45
MTC Engine Oil Pan
  • ; Production: -06/30/2008
  • w/o Gasket or Bolts
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Engine Designation Body Prod. Date Range
2008 - BMW 128i Manual N52B30A Convertible To:06-30-08
MTC
2011 BMW 535i Engine Oil Pan MTC

P311-0108F55    W0133-1925822  New

Qty:
$468.15
MTC Engine Oil Pan
  • (1) 11 13 2 210 959 Screw Set, (1) 11 13 7 559 537, and (1) 11 13 7 582 340 screw required for installation.
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - BMW 535i
APA/URO Parts
2005 BMW 745i Engine Oil Pan APA/URO Parts - Lower

P311-1C7627A    W0133-1795905  New

Qty:
$181.76
APA/URO Parts Engine Oil Pan
  • Lower
Brand: APA/URO Parts
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - BMW 745i
Genuine
2003 BMW 745Li Engine Oil Pan Genuine - Lower

P311-445F01C    W0133-1795905  New

Qty:
$515.21
Genuine Engine Oil Pan
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Lower
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2003 - BMW 745Li

Latest Bmw Repair and Oil Pan Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Crankshaft oil seal leak - BMW 3 series 2007

Showing 4 out of 10 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From JeffC on Crankshaft oil seal leak - BMW 3 series 2007

I recently noticed a very slow oil leak which a garage tells me is coming from the rear crankshaft oil seal. It had apparently leaked into my starter motor which had started to fail and has now been replaced. To avoid another starter failure I need to correct the leak and would appreciate your views on:

- Use of oil additives to stop leaks. Are they safe to use and do they work

- Possibility of an oil breather problem causing pressure build up (Its the N47 diesel engine)

- Is it highly likey it is the crankshaft seal and I should just shell out and get it replaced

- How much would you think for full job?

Really appreciate your advice


Jeff

Response From Discretesignals

That vehicle is no sold here in the states, so advice is limited.

Did the shop check the operation of the PCV system to be sure it is working?

If you don't feel comfortable with the shop's diagnosis, you could always get a second opinion.

There are additives that can condition seals, but unlikely it would stop a worn out seal or seal with too much pressure behind it from leaking.

Response From JeffC

I asked about pressure build up but this was never checked out. I have just been looking at my Haynes manual and it talks about a crankcase pressure limiting valve. Is this the same as the PCV. The manual doesn't Seem to mention a PCV. Definately getting a second opinion on this. Thanks for your help.

Jeff

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just FYI on what PCV = "Positive Crankcase Ventilation" is about.


Blow-by of gasses gets into the vapor areas above oil in oil pans (sump as you called it) and anywhere oil and air are including inside valve covers. What's confused is that "positive" is really making a very slight vacuum in the entire area via the PCV system that also removes that vapor and burns it so should show a very slight vacuum that you can usually measure thru a dipstick tube for oil with engine just idling.


Smoke from a source - incense stick, cigarette if not windy is a quick "hillbilly" way to watch that. If crankcase is under pressure rather than vacuum (just 1/2 of one Hg or so) it will find places to blow oil vapor out like a leak and make real oil (some) show up like a real problem leak and may not be or may be plain excessive blow-by.
If the system is plugged up, broken in some way as DS here suggested can cause the leak which will naturally go to lowest spot if enough to drip.


Rear main seals (in general now on most engines - for decades any make) a "rear main" seal does have a "very limited leak" by design to lubricate it. It would have ONE drop in that location on many and not a problem but not enough to mess up a starter so there's a problem.


How extensive is yet unknown to me. It's my opinion that if a rear main seal is plain worn out that bearing of a crankshaft are the common reason - totally not good! The free motion of a crankshaft because of worn bearings IMO is marking the end of an engine! Either that or a fix would mean either re-machining crank fitted with new properly sized bearings I still consider a patch not along life (many years) fix.


Why? Bad oil pumps, run low on oil, neglect or abuse on the list.


There's also bad luck with a seal. BMW anything isn't known to me for this nor neglect especially this new.


This is why my first thought was a second look or opinion - that's all,


T

Response From JeffC

Hi Tom

You suggested a test for crankcase pressure which I wanted to report back on. When I took the dipstick out there was definately no vacuum. Smoke could be seen rising out of the dipstick tube in fact. I checked the breather hoses and found one from the valve on top of the engine to the air intake to be perished and leaking. I just wanted to check if you think this would be the cause of the pressure build up and the cause of my crankshaft oil seal leak. I have a picture of the damaged hose.



Jeff

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Jeff - This is primal for an internal combustion engine since forever. This case you see a hose in need. That alone could be your whole problem. Fix that then proceed back to even that "hillbilly" smoke test.


FYI - The gasses that normally pass by rings must be vented OUT of engines, once to the ground via a tube now long, long time captured and burned, regulated by a PCV system and clean air allowed in to replace what was drawn out but leaving crankcase in such a slight vacuum not pressure or it would seek the easiest way to blow out an oily mist and show as a leak very real and active or just a mess. I can't say where is the weakest spot but a newer vehicle that didn't have a neglect problem, or overwhelmed with blow-by from wear would just pick to vent where it could even back up to air intake parts.


That mist has to get removed or engine would suffer from very poor quality vapors with oil in them and gasses that would quickly ruin the oil, lubrication of anything oil lubricates.


For now - let's save the design reasons and find out it fixing that hose will solve this. Then just change out the oil and test again that the system is in fact working.


If a seal anywhere was damaged (can't say right now) it might not leak or IDK - you would slow it down at least by all odds.


FYI: Sealing things for engine oil include the pressure sensor, gaskets anywhere like valve covers, intake possible, oil pan gasket(s) front and rear seals as well. Those two are meant to seep just a drop a day such that they don't burn out being dry. If all is good not enough to show up much at all as more than a dirty spot over some time.


The real fear I have is if something went wrong and it is in fact a rear main it's frequently because engine's crank bearings allow too much motion/wobble in worn bearings which is close to an impossible thing to cure or make as good as it would be from new ever again!


If that it should also show as slow oil pressure build up when started from cold. To me that marks the beginning of the end of that engine but don't freak out just yet.


Fix that hose. Get BMW specialty help for things that are likely on this engine to fool the diagnosis not just the "all engines need this idea by design" things I've mentioned as you may also have oil temp sensor(s) and coolers I wouldn't know of for this,


Tom

Response From JeffC

Thank you again Tom. You have been an incredible help. I will change the hose and keep you posted on progress.

Best wishes

Jeff

Response From Hammer Time

I can't speak for diesel engines but I can tell you that a bad rear main in BMW gas engines is very rare.
Valve cover leaks are very common however.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

No additives - period! Second opinion on the source suggested.


Some (IDK each ones) - put alloy oil pans too low not protected and can crack and fool you.


I'm not a "Beamer Specialist" sometimes required. Basics on an oil leak it YOU know it has one is to look for highest and most forward areas that show oil dampness - should be from there,


T

Response From JeffC

Thanks for you advise Tom. I am pretty sure the leak is right down at the bottom of the engine since I can see no evidence at all higher up. I will get a second opinion as you suggest and get the sump checked out.

Jeff

NEED HELP CHOOSING A CAR

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From afgballer4life on NEED HELP CHOOSING A CAR

hi i am looking to buy a car for about 4-5k that will last me... I don't know if i should go for a BMW 3-Series or A 01-05 Civic
Im 19 and Ive been through 3 cars which have cost me alot of repairs
first car was a 1999 civic which had blown head gasket and transmission problems
2001 acura TL which transmission had to be replaced
and what i am driving now a 2000 civic si which i pay $450 monthly for insurance and which had its head gasket replaced twice and clutch which cost me about 2k in less than a year
i am a student so i don't have a huge budget so i need some advice on a car that will last me and be reliable and and ive been through many japanese cars
What do you guys think i should go
I am thinking about a 3 series BMW but i am scared of the parts and maintenaince expenses.... usually ive had a problem every 3 months with my car thats cost me atleast 300 dollars
Are BMW's that much more expensive to repair..and are the parts much more to expensive....
I found a 2002 BMW 320i 5 speed with 230 000 kms for 5k should i go for it
please helpppppp is really appreciated

Response From Discretesignals

Don't think you should buy the BMW. Parts are more expensive and so is the cost of repair.

What is wrong with the vehicle your driving now? If you looking for an investment, cars aren't the place for that unless you own something rare and desirable. No car, no matter what it is, isn't prone to having problems. Your better off sticking to the Honda you have. If you maintain and respect it, it will go for a long long time. Besides you'll need to money to pay off your college loan if you have one.

Response From afgballer4life

the car i have is a mess and i have some money and i wanna move up to another car
but i wanna know if E46 BMW 3 series models are reliable and are they much much more expensive for parts and repairs than hondas
i really wanna buy a BMW but i just want it to last and not break my wallet
thanks for the reply

Response From Hammer Time

i really wanna buy a BMW but i just want it to last and not break my wallet


That's like saying I want to walk out into the Interstate but I don't want to get hit by a car. .................. not likely

Response From afgballer4life



i really wanna buy a BMW but i just want it to last and not break my wallet


That's like saying I want to walk out into the Interstate but I don't want to get hit by a car. .................. not likely

i just want some help don't try to get smart with me... who do you think you are PLATO?
thanks everybody else for help

Response From Hammer Time

i just want some help don't try to get smart with me..

One of us has to be smart and it obviously isn't you.

Response From re-tired



i just want some help don't try to get smart with me









OH GAWD!!!!! HERE WE GO AGAIN


Response From nickwarner

At 19 you've already blasted apart head gaskets, transmissions and clutches of everything you've touched and with the rate you're talking about insurance you've definately rcked up your share of tickets and maybe accidents. To put it in perspective, my insurance is $70 a month with 4 OWI, 3 driving after revocation AND taking 5 sheriff deputies on a high speed chase 5 years ago resulting in a high speed wreck of my truck. You beat the living hell out of everything you own and while you may be footing the bill on this next car at least in part the only way you got the other ones was from the Bank of Mom and Dad. Wish my parents were so giving. Now in your quest for the next car to drag race down the street trying to reenact The Fast and the Furious you are thinking of a sport exotic that costs a damn nice chunk of change new and will fall apart under your driving. It'll be a great lawn ornament.

Civics have a very solid track record of being reliable and trouble free but with you behind the wheel I can think of no vehicle at any price that will stand up to your abuse. If you want your transportation to be reliable, become amish and get a horse. At least it will have the good sense to ignore you when you get the next dumb idea. Might even buck you off and knock that silver spoon loose.

Treat your vehicle like you treat a good woman. If you treat it well and respect it it'll be a great ride for years to come without too much drama. Beat the crap out of it and you won't have it anymore.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


i really wanna buy a BMW but i just want it to last and not break my wallet

Do you think it's a coincidence that B.M.W. could be a cute acronym for Break My Wallet? Stay with mainstream cars and have it checked out pre-purchase. Forget sport packages and toys that aren't there to get from point A to point B with the least hassles. You are paying more for just insurance than it costs me for all expenses on two vehicles for EVERY expense to own them. What gives with that? Ask now what that insurance cost alone will be for a BMW vs a Honda. BMW IMO is for people who have the budget and don't have to worry about that for a whimsical car. Leave those for later when price is not object, T

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Ok...I'll give you an estimate on clutch replacement for a 3 series.

Here in the states it's over a $1000. With the mileage on the one your looking at clutch replacement could be soon if it hasn't been done already. The plastic coolant system parts and hose couplers are prone to cracking. They also tend to leak oil from the oil pan and they have problems with the crankcase ventilation systems along with vacuum leak issues when they get up in age. If you are absolutely bent on getting one, have your mechanic check it over before you consider buying it to see what your getting into.

p/s pulley failure

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on p/s pulley failure

1992 BMW 740i, 174 K miles
This car came into our place w/ a p/s pulley that had disintegrated. The p/s pump is the lowest belt driven item; it hangs a little lower than the crank pulley and the car is missing the front splash shield; the front spoiler is a little battle scarred but still in place, and the car bears no obvious damage underneath. It has had a long term valve cover gasket leak and was really oily and grimy. In taking it apart I discovered the pulleys are all plastic! Any ideas on what caused the p/s pulley failure?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

I've had two Cadillacs come in with P/S pulley failures in the past month. Funny, how things go in 'spurts'. Both had the plastic/phenolic pulleys pressed onto metal hubs. The pulleys had spun on the hubs. Replaced the pulleys, no comebacks. So far.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Seems like you answered your own question in that the pulley is the lowest and the air dam is wrecked. It hit a parking bumper thing they use no doubt or some other obsticle.

I've seen Beamer's (not this model) crack the oil pans on those cement parking things too,

T

2005 Chevy comfort transmission replacement

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From adau on 2005 Chevy comfort transmission replacement

Hi. I need to replace the transmission on my chevy ( build in Mexico). I contacted GM with the VIN. They told me that my transmission was a ML4 TRANSMISSION AUTO 4 SPD, THM 4L30-E, CONV CLUTCH. On what model of car can I find an equivalent transmission to replace mine?

Response From Double J

Just found another chart that Includes the Chevy Omega A and Opel models

1992-1998 Chevrolet Omega A
1996 - Opel Frontera
1998- 1999 Opel Monterey
1998–2000 Isuzu Amigo
2002–2003 Isuzu Axiom
1999-2001 Isuzu Vehicross
1991-2003 Isuzu rodeo and 2001-2003 Rodeo sport
1990-2002 Isuzu Trooper
1996–2000 BMW Z3
1990-1996 BMW 518i Type A

Response From adau

Thanks a lot for your help. To give you more background, I live in Dominican Republic, where a good mechanic is almost impossible to find....
And I don't know anything about transmissions...
And my little Chevy a really rare model. ( OSE19-D on the title, it says comfort on the door ).

If I managed to get a transmission of one of the car models listed, it should fit my car? Any problem I might run into? Any other piece I will need to replace?
Thanks again.

Response From gsferraro

Hello,
2 things to start with to check are bellhousing, different engines sizes, the bellhousing will be a different shape also, the wiring harnesses are different, bmw has only one harness where an isuzu has 2 harnesses. Gary

Response From adau

Can I replace the transmission from another car model, or does it have to come from the exact same car?

Response From gsferraro

If you can find one from the same car, thats good, if not research will have to be done to make sure the other model will fit,these transmissions are used in a variety of different cars. You can get anything earlier than 2000, In the year 2000 the hydraulics changed. Gary

Response From Hammer Time


You can get anything earlier than 2000, In the year 2000 the hydraulics changed. Gary

Gary, did you mean to say "can't" ?

His car is a 2005

Response From gsferraro

Opps, Thanks HT, i meant to say cant

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Here is a cross reference chart for the 4L30




Make


Model


Years


Transmission

ACURA SLX (SUV) 3.2L -- 3.5L V6 1996 > 4L30E



BMW 318I W/1.89L -- 1.9L L4 1992 > 4L30E

BMW 323I W/ 2.5L L6 (2 OIL PANS) 1997-98 4L30E

BMW 325I W/2.5L L4 1992-95 4L30E

BMW 328I W/2.8L L6 1996 > 4L30E

BMW 525I ALL 1991-95 4L30E

BMW 528I W/2.8L L6 1996 > 4L30E

BMW Z3 ROADSTER W/1.9L L4 -- 2.8L L6 1996 > 4L30E

CADILLAC CATERA 1997 > 4L30E

HONDA PASSPORT 2.6L L4 -- 3.2L V6 1994-98 4L30E

ISUZU AMIGO 3.2L V6 (NO OIL PAN) 2.2L L4 1999 4L30E

ISUZU RODEO 2.6L L4 -- 3.2L V6 1991-98 4L30E

ISUZU TROOPER 3.2L 3.5L V6 (2 OIL PANS) 1990-98 4L30E

Response From gsferraro

Hello,
The 4L30E transmissions are used in early BMW(1999 and down) they are used in honda pilots and honda passports(mid 90's) and isuzu troppers(mid 90's) i checked some gm cars cant find any the use this trans(cant even think of any) bellhousings are probably all different, and the bellhousing is part of the pump. What model chevy do you have? Gary

BMW 335D repair - help needed

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From rosedust on BMW 335D repair - help needed

I have a 2009 BMW 335D (diesel). A few days ago, the indicator “no start within xxx miles" was on. It indicates the diesel fluid need to be filled.
08/13/2014:
I took my car to a car repair shop named XXXX Auto. They said they can fix it. Also they recommended other services that include engine oil change, break pad change and fix the undercover. They charged for $800 and I agreed. I had to leave my car at the shop since they needed time. They said they would call me once it is done.

08/15/2014:
I called. They said it is done. I went to pick up my car. They said they have done everything. I paid. When I sit on the car (in the parking lot), I noticed that the “no start within xxx miles" light was still on. I went back to the guy and told him that the problem was still there. He went to the car and played with the machine (BMW device that checks the status of oil, tire, etc). He also called someone and stayed on the phone for a while. Then he told me that everything is fine. He said normally the light should go away after driving it for a couple of miles. I did not leave and I drove the car around the repair shop for a while (I think it is about 10 miles) and the light was still on. So I went back to the shop. The guy checked again and told me they would need to reset the machine to get rid of the indicator and they would need to have the special scanner from BMW. They said everything is fine and asked me to drive the car back once they reserve the tool from BMW. I drove the car back home. The “no start within xxx miles” indicator was always lighted on my way home. I did not feel the car was as smooth as before. And once in a while I noticed there was other light/indicator flashing. I thought they might have messed up the computer.


08/16/2014 ~ 08/19/2014:


I did not drive the car when I got back home since I did not feel comfortable of driving it. I left the car at home and used a different car for my daily commute.
08/20/2014:
They did not call me after a couple of days. I had to call them to see if they had the tool yet. Eventually they told me to bring the car in and they had the tool.
08/21/2014:
I drove the car to the repair shop on the second day. The car really got worse on my way there. It became a little shaky and I could not drive more than 50 miles/an hour. I tried to drive slowly and managed to reach their shop (about 10 miles away from my home). I told them that the initial problem is still there and now it is getting worse. Once again, the guy said “no problem and we will fix it” and I had to leave my car there. I left my car there once again and went to work. Later on the same day, the guy called me and said they had to drive the car to BMW dealership to diagnose it. I questioned if the car should be driven because of its condition. He said the guys who drove the car knew how to handle it.


08/22/2014:
I called. They said they have not heard anything from BMW yet.

08/23/2014:
They called and told me the message from BMW “No start due to bad starter and Battery also weak and will fall soon” and the engine would not start. They said they can replace starter and Battery with cheaper price. I agreed them to tow the car back from BMW and replace the starter and battery.


08/26/2014:
I called them since I did not hear anything from them. I was told they had to send the car back to BMW again since the car still would not start after they replaced the starter and battery.


08/28/2014:
They called and told me BMW said the engine is bad and need to be replaced, and the cost of replacing the engine is more than 15K and total bill will be around 18K. Oh, my god. I started to realize how stupid I was to trust them.

I went to BMW dealer right away and wanted to understand everything from BMW. I talked with the service adviser and we exchanged the information. He told me the engine was locked up and will not start. I told them I believe “someone” messed up my car. I never had any engine problem and I have done all the services and maintenance. The service advisor was very careful not to point finger for whatever reason, but he did acknowledge my point and agreed that engine should not lock up for no reason. He asked me if the “low Engine oil” light was on when I brought the car back to the repair shop after they had repaired it. I said yes, I did notice the light was on when I drove the car back to the car repair shop that day. They told me that in his 20 year of career, he seen this before. No enough lubricant in the engine will cause the engine to lock up. NO ENGINE OIL = ENGINE LOCK UP. He told me opening up the engine will tell the reason why the engine locked up. They will need to charge more than 1K of labor to diagnose the engine. If this is true, that means the repair shop did not fill the engine oil after they took the old engine out!!!!!


At this point, I already thought about taking legal action. I started to collect all the paper work that BMW dealer had sent to the repair shop. On the first invoice/statement, I found “Diesel Fluid low, filled and reset diesel fluid”. The repair shop did not even fill the Diesel Fluid. That is the root cause of “no start within XXX miles.” The repair shop did not mention any of those to me. I asked BMW if the engine oil was filled when XXXX Auto brought my car in. He said that he did not know and would have to verify with his technician.

08/29/2014:
I went back to BMW dealer and tried to understand if the oil was filled. He said that he verified with his technician. Engine oil was full, but it looks brand new and looks very clear. It did not look like the engine oil which had been operated for a few days.
I engaged a law firm on this day.
09/02/2014:
XXXX Auto said he want BMW to open up the engine so he will also know the reason. He said the engine break down can also cause by sludge in the car. I told him that I am ok to inspect the engine and I would like to consult my lawyer first. Later, after consulting with my lawyer, I told them I will need them to sign an agreement before I authorize BMW to open up the engine.
I went to XXXX Auto in the afternoon with an agreement. The other guy (He is an owner as well) was also there. He said he want to talk with me. He asked me a few questions and then offered me to fix the car at their repair shop without cost. I declined and told them that I do not trust them and I would like BMW to do the repair. We both signed the agreement at the end.
BMW said it would take a few days and probably they would have the result by Friday (09/05) or next Monday (09/08). I asked him to take the picture of the engine. Gary said they can invite me to see the engine once they are ready.
09/03/2014:
BMW called. They informed me to be there at 9:00AM on next Monday (09/08) to inspect the engine with their technician. XXXX Save Auto will be there as well.
09/08/2014:I was there at 9:00AM, but XXXX Auto did not show up. BMW shown me that there is sludge (They said it is large amount) found in oil pan which can damage the engine (PLUGGING OIL INTAKE TUBE). BMW said XXXX Auto will not take any responsibility since they see sludge. BMW is not responsible for it as well since it caused by poor maintenance of the car. I have all the maintenance record (Services, fluid change, brake check, engine oil change by BMW recommended interval…). This is really a painful experience. I acknowledge that I have limited knowledge with car. I want to get help and advices from this forum.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

This is on of several exotic cars that is best only using the new car dealer for service and repair not just shop XYZ with possibly lower prices and frequently lack of specific equipment for it.


If you jump into these type vehicles and do not have or keep exact records of what was done and when you can expect things to get wildly costly.


Sludge! Something terribly wrong is in it's past and can easily kill an engine. Now that you've gone legal you may have shot yourself in your foot for getting real help with this car IMO,


T