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Premium Guard
Qty:
$2.58
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Supersede: Replaces PO4610 once inventory is depleted
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2009 - Suzuki Equator V 3954 -
Mann-Filter
2004 Suzuki Verona Engine Oil Filter Mann-Filter

P311-521802D    New

Qty:
$10.12
Mann-Filter Engine Oil Filter
Brand: Mann-Filter
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Suzuki Verona
Premium Guard
Qty:
$2.45
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Supersede: Replaces PG2821A once inventory is depleted
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1995 - Suzuki Esteem L 1590 97
Premium Guard
Qty:
$2.58
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Supersede: Replaces PG4477 once inventory is depleted
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2002 - Suzuki Aerio L 2000 -
Premium Guard
Qty:
$2.45
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2004 - Suzuki Forenza L 2000 -
Premium Guard
Qty:
$2.58
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2007 - Suzuki XL-7 V 3564 -
Hastings
2012 Suzuki Equator Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 4.0L Hastings

P311-4A639F6    New

Qty:
$7.93
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 180
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2012 - Suzuki Equator V 3954 -
Hastings
2008 Suzuki XL-7 Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 3.6L Hastings

P311-5628AF9    New

Qty:
$6.40
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 180
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2008 - Suzuki XL-7 V 3564 -
Hastings
2015 Suzuki Swift Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 1.4L Hastings

P311-422D635    New

Qty:
$8.83
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 180
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Region
2015 - Suzuki Swift L 1372 84 Mexico
Premium Guard
Qty:
$4.52
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2009 - Suzuki Swift+ L 1598 98
Hastings
2010 Suzuki Swift Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 1.5L Hastings

P311-02107EC    New

Qty:
$6.33
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 180
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Region
2010 - Suzuki Swift L 1490 91 Mexico
Hastings
1987 Suzuki Samurai Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 1.3L Hastings

P311-2443B7F    New

Qty:
$6.33
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 180
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1987 - Suzuki Samurai L 1325 81
Hastings
2003 Suzuki Vitara Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.0L Hastings

P311-3A75B3F    New

Qty:
$7.43
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 264
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2003 - Suzuki Vitara L 2000 -
Beck Arnley
1985 Suzuki SJ413 Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 1.3L Beck Arnley

P311-342FA57    New

Qty:
$6.86
Beck Arnley Engine Oil Filter
  • Canadian Models
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1985 - Suzuki SJ413 L 1298 79
Hastings
2004 Suzuki Vitara Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 2.5L Hastings

P311-3E327A3    New

Qty:
$6.99
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 180
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2004 - Suzuki Vitara V 2500 -
Bosch
1995 Suzuki Esteem Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 1.6L Bosch

P311-2607C24    New

Qty:
$4.32
Bosch Engine Oil Filter
  • Bosch Oil Filter
  • Workshop Oil Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
    • Burst Pressure: 200
    • Filter Media Material: Cellulose Paper
    • Filter Type: Spin-on
    • Gasket Material: Nitrile
    • Height: 3.385827
    • Micron Rating: 30
    • Non Slip Grip: No
  • Bosch Premium Oil Filters utilize an exclusive blend of natural and synthetic materials to provide superior oil filtration and increased engine wear protection. Plus, the filter media is close to 30% thicker, and can screen out more harmful contaminants than a conventional filter.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1995 - Suzuki Esteem L 1590 97
Beck Arnley
2004 Suzuki Verona Engine Oil Filter Beck Arnley

P311-0A6DBDC    New

Qty:
$6.73
Beck Arnley Engine Oil Filter
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Suzuki Verona
Fram
1985 Suzuki Samurai Engine Oil Filter Fram

P311-327D9B4    New

Qty:
$8.45
Fram Engine Oil Filter
  • Spin-on Oil Filter
  • TOUGH GUARD
Brand: Fram
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1985 - Suzuki Samurai
Fram
1991 Suzuki Sidekick Engine Oil Filter Fram

P311-327D9B4    New

Qty:
$8.45
Fram Engine Oil Filter
  • G16A Spin-on Oil Filter
  • TOUGH GUARD
Brand: Fram
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Suzuki Sidekick
Beck Arnley
Qty:
$7.30
Beck Arnley Engine Oil Filter
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1992 - Suzuki Sidekick L 1590 97

Latest Suzuki Repair and Oil Filter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Gritty Oil

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Gritty Oil

Where does the grit collected by the oil filter come from?...What is grit?...Looks like fine sand.
The air filter is new and clean. Yet after 3500 miles there was quite a bit of grit in the filter.
Should I be concerned?
Thanks

Response From Sidom

What is the year, make & model of the vehicle & how many orignal miles are on it and has it had any recent major repairs done?

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

98 Suzuki 4cyl 1.6 150,000 mi
Got similar grit in filter on same car w/50,000 mi when I lived in Denver in 2001... but it stopped doing it. until last 2 changes.
This time maybe 1/3 teaspoon. black ovals were larger than sandy stuff.

Response From Sidom

It almost sounds like sludge build up...... deposits can form that when pieces break off you get something like what you are describing. Those pieces you smash between you fingers & they desinagrate. It's caused be going to long between oil changes or the engine running to cool for extend periods of time......

1986 Suzuki Sierra loses power under acceleration

Showing 8 out of 11 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Sebastian96 on 1986 Suzuki Sierra loses power under acceleration

I bought a 1986 1.3L Suzuki Sierra last year with 53,000kms on it, besides it overheating when I drove it home due to a leaking radiator the car went relatively well.

Since then I replaced the radiator, bushes under the handles of the transmission shifter handle and the transfer case handle (hopefully that makes sense), new fuel filter, new oil filter, new heater core, had the alternator tested and it's working fine, all new oils.

After doing all that I took the car for a drive and when I got into 3rd/4th/5th gear the car began losing power, engine revs and speed started dropping. I was told I should replace my spark plugs, and I did. After that the car went fine in 3rd/4th/5th however except this time I can push the accelerator down about 90% of the way, if I push it the last 10% the car starts to lose power, if I let it off a little bit to within the 90% it starts accelerating again, foot down the last 10% and it starts to lose power.

I have noticed a spark outside the distributor, and also I rechecked my fuel filter and after taking it for a test drive the fuel filter is really dirty again! I pulled off the fuel pump and I think it looks okay, the only thing worth maybe mentioning was there was a slight mix of fuel and engine oil and the rocker arm was quite hard to push in and out.

Response From Discretesignals

That vehicle is not sold here in the states, so advice is limited.


If the fuel filter keeps clogging up, maybe you should pull the fuel tank and see what is going on in there. You could also have a rubber hose deteriorating. What ever is floating around in the tank could end up in the carburetor, so you may need to go through that too.

Another possibility is a restriction in the exhaust. If this has an O2 sensor you could screw in a back pressure gauge to see if you have excessive back pressure. If it doesn't have an O2 sensor, you might have to weld in a bung or find another way to measure back pressure.

Response From Discretesignals

You did buy an old vehicle that has problems, so your going to be spending money to keep it alive.

You really need to find out why the filter keeps getting trashed. That would be your first priority.

There is an art to overhauling or doing carb work. If you suspect a carb issue, the only way is to take the top off and look in the bowl to see if there is trash in there. You could have clogged air bleeds or mains or any number of issues.
Some carbs have primary and secondaries. If it runs fine on the primary and you gun it and it goes into the secondary and bogs out. That is a sign the carb needs attention or you have a fuel supply issue.

Response From Sebastian96

Well America released the Suzuki Samurai, which is the American equivalent basically. If that helps?

Also is there any simple way of checking the carburetor for signs it may need cleaning, I really want to try and make sure I fix what actually needs fixing because I have seen so many different suggestions, and I could spend a lot of money before finding the issue.

Response From Sebastian96

Okay thanks a lot for the suggestion!

Do you think this would be an appropriate method of going through it?

I was thinking I'll pull the fuel tank out, flush it by just tipping petrol through, replace fuel lines, replace fuel filter, then if I'm still having issues perhaps change fuel pump and then lastly carburetor? also could I put a small filter between pump and carburetor so if I do have the same issue I can avoid getting the carburetor dirty?

Response From Discretesignals

Sure you could install a filter between the pump and carb. I think you have a good plan with pulling the tank and having a look inside.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Carb is dirty so clean that up. I'm worried about the fuel in oil most & problems from that to be ruled out. That alone can ruin the engine and you can stop if so and seek other solutions. If light enough oil or way too full oil would be harmful to a disaster.


That top plate when cold if you just tap accelerator pedal should snap shut but push open by a finger - cold, engine off. You should see that plate open upon start and in a couple minutes stand straight up - it probably doesn't and that will be the problem and other problems because of that to be found.


Muffler? You mean it sounds like it's full of rocks or something inside or possible heat shielding rattle from outside it? Inside baffles can rust all out or catch crap from up ahead of it.


I may be off on the wrong thoughts on this but the oil and fuel mixing has to be checked out. Compression check this engine. Looks of that carb suggests excessive blow-by now possibly from cylinder wash. May have all started with a choke issue and wrecked this engine so check as much as you can to pick plan.


If oil is getting in air intake that's a bad sign for this thing engine wise. You need to know before you attack with wasted work if a lost cause and might not be at all just have to know.........


T

Response From Sebastian96 Top Rated Answer

Thanks for the suggestion, I pulled the top cover of the carb off and I pulled the accelerator cable and as I pull it, it slowly opens up and I can see a squirt of petrol enter the carb everytime I pull it, although it does look a little dirty inside my carb I'm not sure if it's enough to cause issues but I could be wrong. Also I noticed my muffler is making a rattling sound when I hit it with my hand, is that normal?


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Fuel in oil too! Could be trouble with lots and must have good clean fuel delivered to a very expensive carb just looking at it gives me a headache and used to redo plenty but not so much the 1/2 and 1/2 with electric controls - better one or the other.


Take a look.........
/
That top plate MUST open wide when warmed up quickly (choke) or it will dump raw fuel all the time and bog out - any would just this is a pita now for any parts if needed and insanely expensive BTW. Like $500US - yikes! Check around if needed in your area for non US specs also.


See if you can find a see thru fuel filter inline between pump and carb or I would for this,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Fuel in oil can happen at the fuel pump itself. It mounts to engine and purposely exposed to oily fumes to lube it and if inside the diaphragm is violated can spit fuel out or into crankcase - mixed and the oil gets so thin it's no longer a lubricant or very good at it. That's a concern.


For compression that seem low so you need to add a squirt of oil (was hoping you'd post before oil squirt and after results) then pressures will no doubt spike up quite a bit as that seals rings to cylinder walls that could be excessively worn in turn blow by and the oil in your intake. Those are horrible signs for an engine. Doesn't take many miles/kms at all.


Muffler is junk and any pipes that go with it. There probably was a heat shield long gone where it's the worst now with straps. I doubt that's the up-front problem with this in general.


I just want you to know realistic engine condition so YOU can decide how far to go with that one or another if need be.


That or maybe some tricks to just get it to run OK for a decent while - that would always be what you expect for what investment in work on it.


Fuel pump again - get rid of that now as it real high on the list of the gas/oil issue and shouldn't be expensive or difficult. New oil and filter once again too if still driving this, or count on it for transportation,


T

Response From Sebastian96

Yeah well I appreciate the help, I agree. So what do you believe may be the cause for fuel and engine oil to be mixing?

I pulled off the fuel pump and in the head there was a slight mix of oil and fuel, which I've heard is a sign of either a stuffed fuel pump or maybe something in the engine causing it to push oil through the pin that sits against the rocker arm of the fuel pump.

Also, I did an engine compression test approximately 2 weeks ago and I got between 120 - 130 among the 4 of them.

The sound from inside the muffler isn't a metal sound, more along the lines of dirt and maybe a little gravel.

Also this car although being a 1986, has only done 53,000km's.



This is inside the fuel tank, no rust and looked to me little if any dirt, there is a small amount but only due to me accidentally letting some fall in. Which is strange cause after I put a new fuel filter on it, it got probably 10kms before being filled with crap again!



Here is a picture of the muffler, almost looks like its trying to split.

Engine problem - White Smoke / Warranty question

Showing 3 out of 4 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From cubicleman on Engine problem - White Smoke / Warranty question

2004 Suzuki XL7 - 54000 miles
When car is left unused for a few days, upon starting the engine it makes a funny noise (for a second at startup)...it sounds like marbles grinding (main bearings?) and a puff of white smoke out the tailpipe. It doesn't seem to repeat when started again soon after. I'm past the normal warranty of 3 yr / 36k miles, but I think I have a 100k powertrain warranty. Assuming it's something internal to the engine is this something that should be covered under warranty? Note: I've changed the Oil/Filter every 5-7k miles (although I don't keep receipts), sometimes myself and sometimes a local indy. I also have been checking the oil but it doesn't appear to be down...maybe just a little. Any help / thoughts on what it might be and whether it should be covered under warranty is much appreciated. Also, any advice on how I should approach this with dealer...as I've had other things that I thought should be under warranty in past (things that for my Saab-->Saab dealer would typically just cover) but the Suzuki dealer always seems to find a way to charge me.

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

hi.
really not familiar with suzuki vehicles at all...
Are you sure its not light blue smoke instead of white?
Reason for asking,valve seals can cause light blue smoke on start up...see many on gm engines..
where do you live ,region wise...its not just condensation smoke is it?
As far as the noise,that could be the antilock brake unit running a self test...not sure tho...needs to be listened to by a certified mechanic...

As far as warranty...dealer is going to have to inspect/diagnose before any warranty can be determined.
they are going to have to find the cause of failure first.
Is this the factory 100 k powertrain warranty or an extended warranty?
factory probably covers things like seals and gaskets,extended warranties may or may not ,depending on your coverage...sometimes its an add on for seal and gaskets...sometimes they'll only cover seals and gaskets when having to go internal for a covered failed component.

just some thoughts...

JIM

Response From cubicleman

Jim/Tom, Sorry I haven't replied sooner. It looks like the smoke has a slight blue tone to it. I live in the Northeast (NJ). I think I have a 100k Powertrain warranty. I believe Suzuki utilizes GM Engines, so this might be the Valve Seals that you mentioned. The Car is a 2004 with a little over 50,000 miles.

I haven't checked the coolant...I'll do so tomorrow, since the engine is hot right now. I thought the car called for 7500 mile Oil Changes and half that distance for Severe Use. My typical drive when I use the car is to / from work, ~30+miles each way although I'll occasionally drive it for short distance (to/from local store). My other car is a Saab, for which has a 15000 mile oil change limit, but due to the turbo I do it every 5000 and use Fully-synthetic oil. I'm not as meticulous with the Suzuki, but I think I keep it maintained OK (i.e. tuneups-15k, oil changes-5k, filter changes-15k, etc).

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That does sound like worn main bearings. Not sure about the color of smoke quite yet - is coolant down at all?

5-7k oil changes is pretty close to abuse in my book!

Just checked a common guide for oil change. It's based on normal and severe use. I let you know when I know someone who is NOT a severe use driver by what it said: Short trips, dusty, extended idling time, hot and cold extremes, trailer towing, - - - any of the above you are a severe schedule which means oil changing every 3 thousand miles. Ya - they other says 7500 miles is ok. Some vehicle can handle it, many do not.

That's just oil change. If the white smoke is a head gasket - coolant in combustion chamber, changing oil really wouldn't cause or prevent that,

T