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Hengst
2002 Oldsmobile Alero Engine Oil Filter Hengst

P311-1E54901    New

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Hengst Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
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Brand: Hengst
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2002 - Oldsmobile Alero
Full
2002 Oldsmobile Alero Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-0FAF8D3    New

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Full Engine Oil Filter
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Brand: Full
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2002 - Oldsmobile Alero
Mahle
2002 Oldsmobile Alero Engine Oil Filter Mahle

P311-3210EAB    New

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Mahle Engine Oil Filter
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Brand: Mahle
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2002 - Oldsmobile Alero
ACDelco
2002 Oldsmobile Alero Engine Oil Filter ACDelco

P311-282F691    New

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ACDelco Engine Oil Filter
Brand: ACDelco
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2002 - Oldsmobile Alero
ACDelco
1996 Oldsmobile Achieva Engine Oil Filter ACDelco

P311-376A6DA    New

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ACDelco Engine Oil Filter
  • - Spin On
Brand: ACDelco
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1996 - Oldsmobile Achieva
Full
1996 Oldsmobile Achieva Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-31FD6FB    New

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$6.99
Full Engine Oil Filter
Brand: Full
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1996 - Oldsmobile Achieva
ACDelco
1999 Oldsmobile Alero Engine Oil Filter ACDelco

P311-0F0DA66    New

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$7.56
ACDelco Engine Oil Filter
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Brand: ACDelco
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1999 - Oldsmobile Alero
ACDelco
1999 Oldsmobile Alero Engine Oil Filter ACDelco

P311-0F0DA66    New

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ACDelco Engine Oil Filter
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1999 - Oldsmobile Alero
Mahle
1999 Oldsmobile Alero Engine Oil Filter Mahle

P311-261F66C    New

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Mahle Engine Oil Filter
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1999 - Oldsmobile Alero
ACDelco
1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser Engine Oil Filter ACDelco

P311-0F0DA66    New

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$7.56
ACDelco Engine Oil Filter
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Brand: ACDelco
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1991 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser
ACDelco
1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser Engine Oil Filter ACDelco

P311-0F0DA66    New

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ACDelco Engine Oil Filter
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Brand: ACDelco
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1991 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser
Mahle
1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser Engine Oil Filter Mahle

P311-261F66C    New

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Mahle Engine Oil Filter
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Brand: Mahle
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1991 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser
ACDelco
1995 Oldsmobile Aurora Engine Oil Filter ACDelco

P311-376BDF8    New

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ACDelco Engine Oil Filter
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Brand: ACDelco
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1995 - Oldsmobile Aurora
ACDelco
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser Engine Oil Filter ACDelco

P311-56929EC    New

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ACDelco Engine Oil Filter
  • - Spin On
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1987 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser
ACDelco
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser Engine Oil Filter ACDelco

P311-56929EC    New

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ACDelco Engine Oil Filter
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1987 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser
ACDelco
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser Engine Oil Filter ACDelco

P311-56929EC    New

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ACDelco Engine Oil Filter
Brand: ACDelco
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1987 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser
Full
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-082E966    New

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Full Engine Oil Filter
Brand: Full
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1987 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser
Full
1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-082E966    New

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Full Engine Oil Filter
Brand: Full
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1987 - Oldsmobile Cutlass Cruiser
ACDelco
1991 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Oil Filter ACDelco

P311-56929EC    New

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$7.41
ACDelco Engine Oil Filter
  • with Engine Oil Cooling
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Brand: ACDelco
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1991 - Oldsmobile Bravada
ACDelco
1991 Oldsmobile Bravada Engine Oil Filter ACDelco

P311-56929EC    New

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$6.43
ACDelco Engine Oil Filter
  • with Engine Oil Cooling
Brand: ACDelco
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1991 - Oldsmobile Bravada

Latest Oldsmobile Repair and Oil Filter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

'92 Old.'s Achieva Quad 4 Oil pressure problem.

Showing 5 out of 6 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Fuzzylugnuts on '92 Old.'s Achieva Quad 4 Oil pressure problem.

I have a 1992 Oldsmobile Achieve S with a Quad 4, 2.3L engine. When I got the car the oil pressure gauge would read way over (the max) 80 psi. I found that when driving around for about 15-20 min's, and coming to a stop, the oil pressure gauge would read under 20 psi. and die, just like that. The only time I would be able to move the car again is to wait 20-30 min's before starting it. It would start and run, but another 15-20 min's it would do it again. (shoot up passed 80 psi while driving and shoot back below 20 psi when stopped in drive & die)

I changed the oil 10w-30, oil filter, and oil pressure gauge. Now it will read just under 80 (while running) and just over 40 (while stopped in drive), BUT will do the same thing as before.

During the time I drove it, it would be fine idling in Park or Neutral. This would only happen in R or Drive after the car warmed up.

I have talked to a few people, and told me that it could be the ignition coil, or fuel regulator. (When the hose is disconnected from the regulator it still does the same thing)...?

Can you please help me out, I don't want to start buying parts left and right, until I know the problem.

Thanks!

Response From Double J

So it sounds like the oil pressure reading concern is solved BUT now your trying to find the reason for the stall concern...correct?

When it stalls out ,it won't restart for 30 minutes?..
Only stalls in reverse or drive when warm?

Is there any check engine light on or coming on?..if so post code/s
Many a thing can cause a stall ...

Any more info would help us help you

Response From Fuzzylugnuts Top Rated Answer

1. Yes
2. About 30 min's, Yes
3. Yes when warm it stalls in Drive and Reverse only.

I forgot to say that the oil light stays on all the time, and never goes out. (the oil level is great)
And that the oil pressure gauge goes down slowly from 80 to 40 takes a few min's than stalls out in Drive.
I tried to get the RPM's up to about 2000 and drop it to drive, but still nothing, just dies?
The check engine light works and does not come on at all.
It was tested (at an auto parts store) by a computer and nothing came up.
I told them the situation and they told me about the 2 parts that I stated before.

So I have no idea what to do, if you guys don't have any ideas.

Response From Fuzzylugnuts

Okay, I have found that it could be (IAC) Idle Air Control Valve?
I haven't yet tested it.
Would that be something that would cross your mind when reading my problems?

Thanx for the help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Oil light is still on all the time!" With just that without a separate tester anything could be in the mix up to "game over" for this engine??

T

Response From Double J

Not sure if I have much to offer ...BUT...
The main thing would be first to have the oil pressure tested with a mechanical gauge...see where that is..if there is a problem there..cause if there is an oil pressure problem...like Tom said..it could spell trouble for this engine.

The IAC could cause a stall but I don't believe that would cause it to take 30 minutes to restart...
Thats usually along the lines of a fuel pump problem or an Ignition (spark) problem...BUT...
These were known for (some were anyway) that the wiring harness to the IAC would chafe on the throttle cable bracket....had to be repaired and rerouted....
Just a thought there...


YOu mentioned the oil pressure "gauge" was replaced..was it the "gauge" or the oil pressure sending unit/switch?

2001 Olds Alero, mystery oil light

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From DanDude7000 on 2001 Olds Alero, mystery oil light

Hey Guys,

2001 Oldsmobile Alero V6 coupe, 100k miles.

Last night I was driving back from a restaurant that is just a couple blocks from my house. Just before I got home the red oil warning lamp lit up (the oil-can one, not the 'low oil' one). The car was running fine and did not seem to be overheating. I pulled into my driveway and shut it off. I last changed the oil (lube shop) just about 3k miles ago.

This morning I checked the oil- the level is fine, light/medium brown. I started it up- no warning light. I drove around the block- no warning light or signs of overheating.

I don't know what to do at this point. Everything seems to be fine now, but I'm scared to drive it knowing that whatever caused the prior warning didn't magically fix itself. Could it have been a temporarily clogged oil filter? Faulty warning sensor?

I should mention, about 10k miles ago it was leaking coolant- ended up having the intake manifold gasket replaced. Haven't had any troubles since.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Response From Hammer Time

That is a very serious warning light. It indicates insufficient oil pressure to operate the engine and it shouldn't be driven that way at all. It could be a faulty sensor but the best way to find out is to just replace it.

Response From DanDude7000

Thanks for the help!
Just for clarification, the warning light has not lit up again since that first time. Do you think I should avoid driving it even though the light is not currently on?

Response From Hammer Time

No, not unless it comes on again which it likely will. You might want to go ahead and change the sender now. It may prevent it from coming back on.

Response From DanDude7000

Cool, will do.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Just FYI - RED warnings mean biz! Shut car OFF! Whether false alarm or not this means instant attention. Check OP manually if needed but if it's intermittent may not show a real problem right then. Pay attention! Whole engine is a stake!

T

Uneven brake pad wear

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From Phishr on Uneven brake pad wear

I own a 1993 Oldsmobile Bravada. I have less then 8,000 miles on my front brakes pads since I replaced them. The outside brake pads have minimal wear, while the inside brake pads wear is very uneven. The front of the pads are twice as thick as the rear of the pads. The rear of the pads are where the low wear sensors are and they're already touching the rotors. I bought the brake pads from Kragen and got the medium grade. I also installed brand new rotors. What is causing the tapered wear on my inside brake pads?

Thanks in advance for the help!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just curious - what did the old brakes look like? Same thing? Does this do this to both sides? I would normally blame this on a frozen caliper if pronounced on one side. The pads may just not fit properly or could be a hardware problem. The grade of brake parts should never mean they can't perform and wear out early or irregularly.

This could get more complicated if it did this to both sides,

T

Response From Phishr

The previous brake pads wore completely down to the point they were eating into the inside and outside of the rotors on both sides. The pad lining on all 4 pads was completely gone. There was nothing about them that made me think there might be some sort of problem. I did check my records and the last pair of pads lasted a bit over 10,000 miles.
The problem on my current pads is happening on both sides. The wear is identical. I'm wondering if I did something wrong when I installed them. It is a fairly heavy vehicle and I occasionally tow a dirt bike trailer. Would the added weight of the trailer cause this kind of brake wear?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

It's the heavy wear on the leading edge that has me thinking on this one?? I have known some cars to just eat brakes up fast and one happened to be a 93 Cavalier which may have similar brake design. I knew that Cavalier from near new till way over 200,000 miles and nice owner came in regularly after I did the third front brake job on this car with then maybe 45k on it and she was a bit ticked about them wearing out so fast twice on warranty! With that car I threw everything out - Rotors, calipers, best pads, flex hoses and she would come in every 7,500 miles for a grease, oil, filter, tire rotation when I always would look at brakes and the suckers were half gone - again!!

We just scheduled oil service with new brakes overy other time around for the next 150+K till she got another car. Nice even but fast wear out?? In fairness she was a bit hard on the brakes and this model was the convertible which weighs lots more than the regular car and I'll just chaulk that up to under sized brakes for the car.

The uneven wear makes me think the calipers can cock some with worn pins or the rubber they slide thru allowing this to happen. See if you can rock the caliper much just with your hands and look and it should show where they are not staying in line - caliper prob or the pins??

Do these wheels spin freely or can you feel some brake drag?

T

Response From Phishr

I checked the calipers and they were not loose at all. The tires seem to spin fairly easily with no uneven drag. I pulled the pads and rotors off tonight and the pads are gooved and cracked. The rotors have minor scorching. I was told that when you install new rotors, they should be turned first because they don't always run true....which I didn't do. Also, I didn't lubricate the caliper pins when I installed them last time, which is another thing I have learned you need to do. Could these be the causes of my problems?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

High quality rotors do not need to be turned and the ones I buy say right on the package if you do any warranty is over.

The cracks in the pads suggests high heat and perhaps those pads can't take it or they are worked too hard. If you don't lube up caliper pins they just don't stay free but that usually shows up as uneven wear or problems on just one side of the vehicle first.

It stinks but I'd start all over with nice new stuff and bleed out all the brakes and get new fluid in there. It's not good to just push back caliper pistons returning the fluid back to the reservoir either,

T

Response From Phishr

I got the rotors turned and installed premium brake pads. Once I got the pads seated they seemed to work fairly well. I lubricated everything fairly well and will check the brakes after 5,000 miles. Hopefully it was just a lack of lubrication on the calipers. Next front brake change I will plan on bleeding the brakes. Thanks for all of the help!

Response From Guest

Found this on the back pages. Kragen and Checker were hooked up. Now they're all Advance APs.
They must be selling cheap brake pads, made cheap.
I stopped trusting checker on anything electric along time ago. Won't trust them anymore on brake products either now, since I've had experience with uneven brake wear with their pads too. Advance APs too. I used to like Advance but I guess Zone is the way to go now.