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Mopar
2007 Mitsubishi Raider Engine Oil Filter 8 Cyl 4.7L Mopar

P311-45F5172    W0133-2040707  New

Qty:
$33.60
Mopar Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
Brand: Mopar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Genuine
2019 Mitsubishi Outlander Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 3.0L Genuine

P311-5E9970A    W0133-2074494  New

Qty:
$15.51
Genuine Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2019 - Mitsubishi Outlander V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2998
Full
1996 Mitsubishi Diamante Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-29B5604    W0133-1640719  New

Qty:
$13.86
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Mitsubishi Diamante
Hastings
2006 Mitsubishi Raider Engine Oil Filter 8 Cyl 4.7L Hastings

P311-517B58F    LF107  New

Qty:
$9.21
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Lube Spin-on
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 108
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Mitsubishi Raider V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Hastings
2018 Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 1.5L Hastings

P311-4A639F6    LF240  New

Qty:
$9.50
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Lube Spin-on
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 180
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross L 4 Cyl 1.5L 91 1499
Hastings
2011 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.0L Hastings

P311-54DA683    LF565  New

Qty:
$8.01
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Lube Spin-on
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 180
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Mitsubishi Outlander Sport L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998
Hastings
2006 Mitsubishi Raider Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 3.7L Hastings

P311-3E0230F    LF134  New

Qty:
$8.26
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Full-Flow Lube Spin-on
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 180
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Mitsubishi Raider V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Hastings
2009 Mitsubishi Raider Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 3.7L Hastings

P311-328DA5B    LF637  New

Qty:
$8.80
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Lube Spin-on
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 180
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Mitsubishi Raider V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Hastings
1992 Mitsubishi Diamante Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 3.0L Hastings

P311-07942A4    LF402  New

Qty:
$9.67
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Full-Flow Lube Spin-on
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 180
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Block Engine CID CC
1992 - Mitsubishi Diamante S V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2972
Hastings
2006 Mitsubishi Endeavor Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 3.8L Hastings

P311-4A639F6    LF240  New

Qty:
$9.50
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Lube Spin-on
  • 3 1/2 Inch
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 180
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Mitsubishi Endeavor V 6 Cyl 3.8L 230 3828
Hastings
2015 Mitsubishi Outlander Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 3.0L Hastings

P311-4A639F6    LF240  New

Qty:
$9.50
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Lube Spin-on
  • 2 9/16 Inch Outside Diameter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 180
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Mitsubishi Outlander V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2998
Hastings
2015 Mitsubishi Outlander Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 3.0L Hastings

P311-54DA683    LF565  New

Qty:
$8.01
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Lube Spin-on
  • 3 1/32 Inch Outside Diameter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 180
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2015 - Mitsubishi Outlander V 6 Cyl 3.0L 182 2998
Premium Guard
Qty:
$3.58
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Thread Pitch 3/4 16 Outside Diameter 2.98 Height 4.74" Spin-On Filter
  • Standard Life Oil Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Mitsubishi Raider V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Premium Guard
Qty:
$3.58
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Thread Pitch M22x1.5 H6 Outside Diameter 2.98 Height 4.08" Spin-On Filter
  • Standard Life Oil Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Mitsubishi Raider V 6 Cyl 3.7L 226 -
Premium Guard
Qty:
$3.58
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Thread Pitch M20x1.5 Outside Diameter 3.15 Height 2.95" Spin-On Filter
  • Standard Life Oil Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Mitsubishi Precis L 4 Cyl 1.5L - 1468
Premium Guard
Qty:
$3.48
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Thread Pitch M20x1.5 Outside Diameter 2.69" Height 2.93" Spin-On Filter
  • Standard Life Oil Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Mitsubishi RVR L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998
Premium Guard
Qty:
$3.48
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Standard Life Oil Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2018 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Cross L 4 Cyl 1.5L 91 1499
Premium Guard
Qty:
$3.79
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Thread Pitch UNF-2B Outside Diameter 3.7 Height 3.75"
  • Standard Life Oil Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Mitsubishi Raider V 8 Cyl 4.7L 287 -
Full
1993 Mitsubishi Diamante Engine Oil Filter Full - Ht=82mm / Dia=80mm

P311-29B5604    W0133-1640719  New

Qty:
$13.86
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
  • Honda no longer offers this oil filter but has superseded it to a later version that is narrower and taller in size. We still offer the 15400- P0H-305 filter for customers that prefer it. It can also be used to replace the later filter on most engines that were originally equipped with the later filter, but a wider filter wrench may be required for removal and installationn.
  • Ht=82mm / Dia=80mm
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Cylinder Head Type
1993 - Mitsubishi Diamante SOHC
Full
1996 Mitsubishi Diamante Engine Oil Filter Full - Ht=82mm / Dia=80mm

P311-29B5604    W0133-1640719  New

Qty:
$13.86
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
  • Ht=82mm / Dia=80mm
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1996 - Mitsubishi Diamante

Latest Mitsubishi Repair and Oil Filter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Mitsubishi Magna VR-X 2003 Cracked Oil Pan

Showing 2 out of 19 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From chocbeaver on Mitsubishi Magna VR-X 2003 Cracked Oil Pan

Engine: V6
Mileage: 100 000km

I was on a dirt road and hit a rock, cracked the oil pan. Oil light came on, drove for about 10sec then stopped. Engine had white smoke and was making a funny noise. Filled up coolant, left it for 10min, poured water over radiator. Was out of town, so drove about 2-300m t the nearest shop at a crawl. Is the engine damaged?

Response From Hammer Time

Let me get your logic here.

You damage the oil pan to the point where you have smoke and noises from the engine.

Now you pour water over the radiator and that somehow will resolve your oil problem.

Then you proceed to drive it this way...........

You've got to be kidding

Response From Discretesignals

Let me get your logic here.

What logic? I think logic went out the window a long time ago after the oil pan was cracked. Did you check to see if oil was in the engine? Did you crack the engine oil pan or the transmission oil pan?

I don't understand this part though:

2-300m t the nearest shop at a crawl.

Is that 2-300 meters or miles?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If that was METERS than with an oil light blinding you, you should have walked to that shop for help. Never mind possible damage that you needed coolant filled also when especially oil warnings and temperature warnings come on you shouldn't expect much more if you drive it.

Please clarify how far, how long it ran with possibly no oil as yes that could be enough to ruin it,

T

Response From chocbeaver

The coolant was pretty much full when we filled it up. And I'm pretty sure it was just the oil sump.

Response From Hammer Time

Just the oil sump?

I thought I had indigestion but it turned out to be only a massive coronary.

Response From chocbeaver

I've been told the oil sump is simple to fix?

Response From Hammer Time

Probably would have been if you didn't drive it without one. The oil pump is the heart of the engine and when your heart stops pumping, you're pretty much screwed. The difference with a car is that you have to ability to shut it off until the problem is resolved.

Response From chocbeaver

So the 200 metre drive would have made serious damage?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You had smoke AND noise (probably knocking from lack of oil pressure) before you first shut it down. That was enough but then drove it more probably hearing it even worse
You mention "sump" ?? If oil pan was damaged enough to harm/destroy the oil pick up is going to make this more trouble to even find out. If it cranks or turns just one second now AND pick up for oil is still expected fine I'd temporarily patch the crack, use any cheap oil and start it for more info on how much damage has occurred. You may not know the extent till fixed and some miles. If oil pressure can't hold well or it smokes, still knocks it's probably game over for that engine or will just be a constant headache fouling plugs, burning oil, wrecking converter.

You don't need to take our word for what to do when you are warned of oil pressure loss just look in your owner's manual that won't say it's over but dang well should say shut down NOW and don't run it more.

It may run again but almost certainly has caused serious damage at best. If it doesn't turn you can pretty much forget it entirely,

T

Response From chocbeaver

Thanks for the help. The noise didn't worsen when we drove it again. I just have my fingers crossed the engine hasn't taken too much damage.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Luck happens. Just don't waste too much $$ finding out. You'll know when it will hold oil and some miles where it's at. Actually if this was some old beat up all iron engine already worn, consuming some oil regularly you'd have a better chance. It's low miles was against you IMO.

Watch it like a hawk for fluid levels and leaks and some time will tell,

T

Response From chocbeaver

Ok then, I know I'm pretty lucky (hopefully). The secretary didn't say much about the engine. What is an engine pipe though? After googling it, is it the exhaust one or the pickup pipe for the oil?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Engine Pipe?"

That's pretty vague. Because this hit a rock type thing I can only guess that it's exhaust something. The pick up for oil in pan should be fine (not there so can only guess) if pan wasn't smashed bad enough. Exhaust could either make exhaust noise or if smashed/pinched be a restriction.

Hard to say without looking as this is damage from impact not just routine so looking at it would be imperative to get the best clue as to extent of damage.

Guessing it's still at the shop and I would go down and let mechanic/tech show you what has been found and explain what the problem or best guess fix is,

T

Response From chocbeaver

Yeah. She said they got the part from the wreckers/dump, so I'm thinking oil pipe from what I've read or can you get the exhaust one from the same place as well?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

IDK - oil pipe? Except for an oil filter the rest is inside for oil. Exhaust could have a pipe to blow fresh air in that was easier to find used than wait or chase down new - just dunno?

Closest you could get is to take a video or pics pointing to what was damaged. Interpretations from a "secretary" may not be the best description so if in doubt or need to know ask to talk to the tech,

T

Response From chocbeaver

My grandfather found out, it's apparently it's got something to do with the exhaust and manifold?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If damage involved exhaust parts let the techs free and fix it or bail out on the whole car,

T

Response From chocbeaver

Ok, rang up the mechanic then. Something is also wrong with the engine pipe that they need to fix. How bad is that? I got the secretary and she didn't have a clue.

Service Done - Car Miss

Showing 6 out of 7 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Hminder on Service Done - Car Miss

Hi,

I have a mitsubishi lancer mx touring (EFI) one and I have done the service today
changed engine oil (Valovoline oil)
and oil filter (Japan one)

after all now my car not pickup and vibrating when accelerate.

what can be the reason for this?

They washed the engine during the service

This problem was ok in the evening but again its coming
I noticed that when i accelerate its happenning
Like something is blocked inside the engine or inside the car.i dont know the exact place

Any ideas

Thanks

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

Is the check engine light on???? If so have the codes pulled, you may find a P030X code.

Did you talk to the shop that did the service yet? If not give them a call and tell them what you posted here......

Response From Hammer Time

Never, ever wash an engine in today's vehicles. There are hundreds of electronic modules for you to ruin.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Jeez HT - just pressure washed my computer and wonder !@#$%^&#$!#@!@%^*^&*(&*( what went wrong? - T

Response From Hammer Time

It doesn't work too well under water, does it

Response From Tom Greenleaf

But, But, But I used Palmolive. Madge says she get a manicure soaking in it so what could go wrong?



Oh boy! - T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The key here is you washed the engine. NOT! Might be early but may have just wet the wrong things or worse sucked in some water thru intake depending on what you did. If time just let it dry out but look for water in any air intake parts. If already all dry it might have cracked something or anything carrying high voltage to spark plug or including spark plug porcelain.

If it sucked it into engine all bets off as to extent of damage so far. You may have "washed" engine before or many times without incident but this could have cost you a freaking fortune! The dirt was harmless but it's done now so let's find what went wrong.

"Blocked inside engine?" I'm not sure what to make of that. A misfire or real damage just yet. See if oil is too full or mixed with water now if that bad after a run of any time would be a horror show,

T

2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse GTS Horrid Noise on Cold Start

Showing 3 out of 13 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From kristen on 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse GTS Horrid Noise on Cold Start

Hello-

I have a 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse GTS 3.0 liter, manual transmission. Car makes awful noise only on cold start up's, noise will fade out after car starts to warm up. Makes the noise more so in the winter, and less in the summer. I was hoping the Timing belt, Tensioner, Pulley, belts, plug, wire, distributor cap/rotor job would clear up the issue, but for some reason it didn't. As long as the car is heated up the noise won't happen, like I said only does it on cold starts. I have always changed the oil myself, and I use castrol synthetic with a K&N oil filter. I guess when the garage did all that work they changed my oil so I'm guessing they probably used some cheap oil, and filter. All my research I have done has indicated faulty tensioner (but this was just replaced), lifters, or my starter. I have posted the noise all over the mitsubishi eclipse forums, and this is what everyone tells me.. The garage I brought it 5 months ago tried figuring it out and couldn't the only thing they could think of was it was my lifters, and it just takes longer for my oil to get to the top end of the engine hence the reason why the noise stops once it warms up. I said well then should I replace the oil pump and they said no. The garage also took my main exterior belt off, and started the car to try and determine if it was an external part making the noise or the engine. When the belt was off there wasn't a noise. They put the belt back on, and started it the following day because the car had to be cooled back down, and the noise was present. I have posted a video of it to Youtube if you would like to take a listen to it. Just go to youtube and in the search bar type: 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse GTS noise. My post should be the first one on the page. It is 2:58 minutes long., and it is by kristenl2784 (me). It started around 80K, and is now at 114K. All work that was just done to it, was done less than a month ago. So two garages as of right now have really no explanation for it, or they really don't want to waste there time looking more into it. Below is the link to my video as well if it doesn't work just type in what I mentioned earlier in the search bar of youtube.



Thanks for any Help!

Response From GC

Something isnt making sense to me. If there was no noise with the belt off, then should be something that the belt is driving or possibly the crank pulley/balancer. And the belt couldnt be put back on until it was cool?

That said... That doesnt sound much like a pulley or accessory to me. Or lifters... From the crappy sound quality on youtube, it sounds like an exhaust leak? But i wouldnt trust a sound diagnosis over the interwebs.

This shouldnt be hard to figure out. Try another shop?

Response From kristen Top Rated Answer

Hello they did put the belt back on but waited for the car to be cool again before starting it back up. The noise is only there on a cold start. I understand what you're saying they should have been able to start it right away after putting the belt back on.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You are calling this a "horrid" noise and just said it's done it as far back as last Summer and nobody can tell you what it is? New techs needed. Damage may already be done just cold makes it worse??


T

Response From kristen

I also forgot to add that my main external belt was replaced, and so wasn't my idler pulley.

Response From Discretesignals

Is the ac compressor clutch engaged when it is making that noise?

Response From kristen

The AC or Heat can be on or off, and doesn't make a difference. Also the steering wheel can be straight or turning and that doesn't make a difference either.

Response From Discretesignals

Someone is going to have to get in there with a mechanic's stethoscope and pinpoint the area or source of the noise.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Seems to be proven that it's a belt driven item making this noise OR some belts are noisy all by themselves. Depending on where in NH it's been nasty cold (close to MA temps except White Mountains really suk sometimes)


Just because some items on belt have been done neither rules them out but should and if that much noise this isn't rocket science to isolate which item on the belt system is the culprit. Surprised whatever hasn't broken totally removing any of this guessing,


T

Response From kristen

I live in NH weather is crazy it changes all the time could be in the negative single digits, to positive single digits and sometimes up to 30 or 40 during the winter months.

Response From kristen

Right its been to a couple garages and they can't seem to figure it out. I'm guessing it's more external because when they took the belt off the noise wasn't there on cold start. The next day on cold start they started it with the belt on and the noise was there. Since it started making the noise winter tends to be when it comes about more often, and lasts about 5 - 8 minutes then fades out and you can no longer hear it and it sounds fine and runs fine. The car wont make the noise the rest of the day unless it becomes fully cooled down. During the summer it doesn't happen all the time and doesn't last very long if it does 30 seconds to tops a minute or two.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

How cold is this cold start? What viscosity of synthetic Castrol never mind brand the viscosity counts big time. Was it making the noise when belt was taken off then not making the noise in front of you? If so and techs didn't notice that you need new techs.


GC mentioned possible exhaust which many would get quiet when warm and should be ruled in or out.


Right now I doubt the oil viscosity is correct but total guess and don't know how cold you are talking about yet either,


T

Response From kristen

5w 30 is the oil I use

93' Eclipse motor trouble

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From hazard364 on 93' Eclipse motor trouble

1993
Mitsubishi
Eclipse GS
2.0
107k

In short, i'm mechanically inclined to fix this, but my knowledge of cars is changing oil, filters, and plugs.

I recently put a 92' spare motor in an eclipse we obtained through a friend.
Putting it in went fairly smooth.
Now when we started it, it has a really rough rattle/vibration. It CAN drive, but with how loud the vibration is its hardly bearable. It also has a slight loss of power.



Attached is the motor idling to give you an idea on the sound it is making.
I have replaced the plugs, wires, cap n rotor.

Response From Sidom

Also you may want to pull the timing cover and make sure you don't have the balance shaft 180° out.....That would give you a severe vibration right off idle.......It's possible to line up all the timing marks and get the shaft 180° out.

But I agree with DS.....sounds like you also have some pressure issues going on there....


I don't get the "short" thing????? Cash?????

Response From hazard364 Top Rated Answer

I'll give it a go on the oil pressure gauge.

When you put it up to 2-3k rpm's the shaking speeds up but feels a little less rough.

In short, or the jist of it.

Response From Sidom

If you've had the timing belt off or even if you didn't......since its a new motor, I would check that balance shaft.....If the balance shaft is 180 out, the worst vibration is between 1000 & 2000 and then gets better...

This is an interference engine.......If you didn't put a new timing belt & pulleys on it you are taking a huge risk.....at the bare minimum, it needs a new timing belt....

Guess I need to check my glas$es.....read that a couple times & saw "I'm short"............hmmmmmm

Response From Discretesignals

You should connect up an oil pressure gauge and see what the pressure is. Sounds like the lash adjusters aren't pumped up or full of air.