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Motorcraft
1980 Mercury Bobcat Engine Oil Filter Motorcraft

P311-58FDE5E    W0133-1788296  New

Qty:
$22.00
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Mercury Bobcat
Motorcraft
1988 Mercury Grand Marquis Engine Oil Filter 8 Cyl 5.8L Motorcraft

P311-58FDE5E    W0133-1788296  New

Qty:
$22.00
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
  • Excludes Auxiliary Oil Cooler
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1988 - Mercury Grand Marquis V 8 Cyl 5.8L 351 5753
Motorcraft
2005 Mercury Sable Engine Oil Filter Motorcraft - Single Filter

P311-1FCB293    W0133-1698807  New

Qty:
$22.00
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
  • Single Filter
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Fuel Type Cylinder Head Type
2005 - Mercury Sable GAS OHV
Motorcraft
2009 Mercury Sable Engine Oil Filter Motorcraft - Single Filter

P311-1FCB293    W0133-1698807  New

Qty:
$22.00
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
  • Production: -01/15/2009
  • Single Filter
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2009 - Mercury Sable To:01-15-09
Motorcraft
2011 Mercury Milan Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 3.0L Motorcraft - Single Filter

P311-106AA18    W0133-1837783  New

Qty:
$29.17
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
  • Single Filter
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Mercury Milan V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
Full
2011 Mercury Milan Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 3.0L Full - Single Filter

P311-53B166B    W0133-1837783  New

Qty:
$17.36
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
  • Single Filter
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Mercury Milan V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
Motorcraft
2009 Mercury Sable Engine Oil Filter Motorcraft - Single Filter

P311-106AA18    W0133-1837783  New

Qty:
$29.17
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
  • Production: 01/16/2009-
  • Single Filter
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2009 - Mercury Sable Fr:01-16-09
Full
2009 Mercury Sable Engine Oil Filter Full - Single Filter

P311-53B166B    W0133-1837783  New

Qty:
$17.36
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
  • Production: 01/16/2009-
  • Single Filter
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2009 - Mercury Sable Fr:01-16-09
Motorcraft
2011 Mercury Milan Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.5L Motorcraft - Single Filter

P311-5983C86    W0133-1911670  New

Qty:
$26.91
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
  • Single Filter
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Mercury Milan L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488
Full
2011 Mercury Milan Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.5L Full - Single Filter

P311-1994C93    W0133-1911670  New

Qty:
$17.65
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
  • Single Filter
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Mercury Milan L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488
Motorcraft
2009 Mercury Mariner Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.5L Motorcraft - Single Filter

P311-5983C86    W0133-1911670  New

Qty:
$26.91
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
  • with Spin-On Type
  • Single Filter
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Mercury Mariner L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488
Full
2009 Mercury Mariner Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.5L Full - Single Filter

P311-1994C93    W0133-1911670  New

Qty:
$17.65
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
  • with Spin-On Type
  • Single Filter
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Mercury Mariner L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488
Motorcraft
2011 Mercury Grand Marquis Engine Oil Filter Motorcraft - Single Filter

P311-144CA94    W0133-1786736  New

Qty:
$23.37
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
  • Single Filter
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Mercury Grand Marquis
Premium Guard
Qty:
$3.48
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Thread Pitch M20x1.5 Outside Diameter 2.69" Height 2.93" Spin-On Filter
  • Standard Life Oil Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1990 - Mercury Tracer L 4 Cyl 1.6L 98 1598
Premium Guard
Qty:
$3.79
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Thread Pitch M22x1.5-6H Outside Diameter 3.77 Height 3.73" Spin-On Filter
  • Standard Life Oil Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Mercury Mountaineer V 8 Cyl 5.0L 302 -
Premium Guard
Qty:
$3.79
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Spin-On Filter Height 3.73" Outside Diameter 3.77 Thread Pitch M22x1.5-6H
  • Standard Life Oil Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Mercury Montego V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
Full
2011 Mercury Milan Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.5L Full

P311-1994C93    W0133-1911670  New

Qty:
$17.65
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Mercury Milan L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488
Full
2009 Mercury Mariner Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.5L Full

P311-1994C93    W0133-1911670  New

Qty:
$17.65
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
  • with Spin-On Type
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2009 - Mercury Mariner L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488

Latest Mercury Repair and Oil Filter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

help with a 97 cougar

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From cougar owner on help with a 97 cougar

alright. i have a 97 mercury cougar, 3.8. When I accelarate , it bogs down real bad. We've replaced the fuel pump, fuel regulator, cam sensor, spark plugs, fuel filter and oil filter. Fuel pressure is where it's supposed to be now. Last, we cleaned out the catalyct converters, (3 of them) It is a little better now that we did that, but it is still bogging down. any suggestions?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I'd get a full code reading for more info. Just how did you "clean out" the converters?

T

transmission pan empty, even after fill. burning trans fluid w/ thick white smoke from exhaust

Showing 2 out of 24 Posts | Show 22 Hidden Posts
Question From elester3 on transmission pan empty, even after fill. burning trans fluid w/ thick white smoke from exhaust

2002 mercury sable, 120000 miles.

Hit a huge rock in the road, busted trans pan, drained all fluid but was stopped after the bang. Wasn't driven after. After removing old pan I saw the filter was also broken. We replaced filter, gasket, and new pan. We filled it back up with trans fluid, but still nothing. No shifting whatsoever. Thought maybe it was still low, added more and then thick white smoke came billowing from tail pipe, shut off car immediately.
Next I removed the pan to check filter was properly seated, it was, but the was little to no transmission fluid in the pan.
What could stop it from making it to pan, and what can I do about the smoke?

Response From Hammer Time

Check to see if you have a vacuum line going to a modulator valve. If so, pull the hose and see if there is any oil in it. That would account for the smoke but not the lack of movement so you likely have other internal damage.

Response From elester3

If there is oil on it, what do I do about it?

Response From Hammer Time

Replace the modulator valve but that still doesn't explain the car not moving. You need to get it to a trans shop for diagnosis.

Response From Discretesignals

I don't think they have vacuum modulators on those. Line pressure is controlled by the pressure control solenoid. Anything leaking from the transmission when the engine is running. Maybe fluid is leaking onto the hot exhaust pipe or cats?

Response From elester3

Nothing is leaking. The fluid isn't even making it to the pan, new filter is still dry.

Response From Discretesignals

Where are you pouring the fluid into?

Response From elester3

The stem for transmission dipstick

Response From Discretesignals

You sure about that? How is the engine's oil level?

Response From elester3

Positive.. not near it now to check

Response From Discretesignals

Just checking, because it's possible that you may be filling the wrong dipstick tube. You overfill the engine with transmission fluid and it will smoke.

Response From elester3 Top Rated Answer

I think I may have done that come to think of it. If so, oil, oil filter change, and adding to proper whole fix it? No damage?

Response From Discretesignals

That will fix the engine if you happened to by accident put the transmission fluid into the engine. It may smoke for a while till it burns the transmission fluid off. The O2 sensors probably won't like that, so it's possible the O2 sensors could fail.

Response From elester3

OK thanks for helping realize my lack of attention! Hopefully all goes well tomoro. Thanks again.. I feel foolish lol

Response From Discretesignals

Believe me, it happens more than you think.

Response From elester3

I see recommendations to do an oil flush before oil change with this issue. Would you recommend this with 6qts trans fluid, or just drain and let it burn off?

Response From Discretesignals

Transmission fluid won't hurt the engine internals unless you drive around with it in there. Just do an oil and filter change and you'll be fine. Engine holds 5.8 quarts 5W-20 if you have the 3.0L DOHC and 4.5 quarts 5w-20 if you have the 3.0L OHV U motor.

Transmission takes Mercon V ATF. Look in your owner's manual and it should show you where the transmission dipstick tube is.

Response From elester3

Msg at bottom says follow up when resolved.. that mean I should post, you were right, I'm a dummy.. its fixed tomoro?

Response From Hammer Time

I guess I need to think outside the box more.

Response From elester3

Haha it was a foolish error on my part. I've been working on my own cars since I was driving.. just trying yo do too much at once with distractions.
All is well now thanks guys!

Response From Discretesignals

Don't worry about it. That stuff happens. That's if that is what happened. You'll know, if you end up draining 11 quarts of oil out of the engine tomorrow.

Response From elester3

Thank you so much. I can't yell you how much stress you have relieved from me. It was my brothers car, just trying to help him out and I thought I did major damage. Thanks again. Karma lkes people like you.

Response From elester3

Its coming from the tailpipe. That's what I was hoping that it was dripping. But you can hear the difference in the sound of engine running.

Response From elester3

Will do thank you

oil puddle, car cranks but won't turn over

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From mcathie1 on oil puddle, car cranks but won't turn over

Hello, I have a 2009 Mercury Mariner Premier, 2.5l 4cyl, AWD, 6spd auto. After running errands, I went to park my car, the car cutoff on me. I tried to restart it, it cranks but will not turn over, all the lights are fine-not dimming. I got out and found a big puddle of oil underneath. I am praying that I don't have to get a whole new engine. Within the last 3 months, I got an oil change, and they had to install a new steering column, but no other problems were going on with my car. Any ideas? I currently just work part-time due to medical issues- so money is seriously non-existent :-( . Any ideas on how much money I need to set my goal towards? Thanks in advance for any information/ideas/help.

Response From Discretesignals

First, someone needs to get under there and determine where the oil leak is coming from. Did you check the oil level on the engine's dipstick?

it cranks but will not turn over Not sure what you mean. It cranks, but the engine will not start?

Response From mcathie1

Thanks for responding. The dipstick showed about 1/4 oil level. I'm working on getting someone to look at it, but trying to find someone willing to make a house-call, since can't afford a tow until the weekend. When I turned the key, i heard a clicking/ticking sound. (Sorry, I thought that meant cranking- i'm not up on the "car lingo")

Response From Discretesignals

Click ticking sound could be from a starter solenoid not getting enough power, but that is a tough call to make without actually seeing the vehicle. Really should wait and see where that oil leak came from first through. Let us know what they find out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

? Is engine turning or is this "clicking" just a normal starter and battery fighting a tight or seized engine! Yikes what words you choose make a world of difference.
Finding a puddle under car isn't great news. Finding out why is mandatory - recent oil change suggests check drain plug and oil filter. Speedy oil change places are famous for wrecking drain plugs and messing up oil filters if applicable but anybody could.
No money but still things you can check. Try to find out if engine is really turning at proper speed or not at all just looking at it while trying and knowing oil level is full enough.
Until found and some money if required I wouldn't use this car. You can tell if battery is strong with headlights on and cranking it. If they go dim and slow crank it's either tight engine or low battery power. Clicking is usually the solenoid meant to do that if it's that you are hearing when low power for the demand of cranking isn't enough it should just do multiple clicks like a machine gun sound not conclusive but power and need doesn't match so does that on purpose.
Know what terms you are using so it doesn't confuse the issue. I/we think saying you found a puddle of oil say volumes! Scared about that!


T

Response From mcathie1

Thank you both for helping me with information & ideas. Sorry again about my "car lingo". I will let you know what they find. Hugs to y'all..

Hesitates when accelerate, now dying?

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From janniehank on Hesitates when accelerate, now dying?

Ford Escort LX Wagon 1996 (automatic) Maybe a 1.9 L? 4 cyclinder. oil change 131,000 8-8-2015. coil pack 99,000 miles. spark plug and wires 124,653 miles.
Car had trouble starting when fan on and hot weather (seems like that's when) but starts after couple of tries. Now when we get to stop sign then accelerate it hesitates like or misses. This is not all the time. - took to repair shop guy looked (wasn't doing it) said maybe bad gas. Couple days ago. car sputtered died coasted into parking lot. Waited awhile and started and drove to repair shop. Repair guys says needs a new coil (is ignition coil same thing as the coil Pack??). Said not worth fixing as the engine has a knock in it. Something going bad internally in engine. The items done at after 111,000 miles were done by the current repair shop. Any help appreciated.

Really not sure if we're getting the straight story or they don't want to deal with us.
They changed and put rear stablizer links at 121,000 miles and new rear struts at 124,670 miles
Alternator at 116,503 miles
check valve assembly 111,423 (purge flow assembly?)
vacumn elbow & coil pack - 99,198
Rear Springs & Strutts 87,470 miles
Spark plugs & distributer 63,172
transmission gasked and serviced - 56,332

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Said not worth fixing as the engine has a knock in it. Something going bad internally in engine."




That's pretty damning for a glance at your problem!
You seemed to have tracked all services by the mile so well what did anyone miss?


IDK - For now suggest another shop for an engine diagnosis, codes read fully up to a compression test as well or whatever a real tech can prove not what was said above. It that person or place was just having some kind of bad day fine but makes it seem like it's not worth buying for gas for the thing either with those comments!


T

Response From janniehank

Question: is there more than one coil in the car?? Guy who changed that at 99,000 is no longer available so had to change shops at 111,000 miles. Coil had a lifetime waranty.

Started this morning doesn't have the "clicking" noise. Would the bad coil cause the missing and hesitation sometimes at accerlation and the last time just dying. We did add new gas at a different station after the guy said it might be bad gas.

It's hard to know if we're throwing good money away to something really bad.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Oh boy. This is messy with what was said to you. If a coil pack alone is doing this AND this is a 1.9 (find out, 8th digit of VIN would be a "J") if not it's a 1.8. So if that was really known to be the problem and a noise heard that now you say isn't there I
we are at a loss.


Coil would look like this, ONE on the 1.9 if correct......
/
Lifetime warranty would be if you knew of where and copy of receipt no doubt? Not wildly expensive as a car goes.


This whole table got turned around when told you engine is essentially junk and I don't believe that at all right now. My experience with this type coil or high voltage items is then can fail and worse when damp if they work at all. Could misfire like all confused and even die out on you. Noise from this? IKD - let's not go there - not a knock anyway.


Tell me if I'm wrong but you aren't doing this diagnosis or work yourself and hiring this done by techs - right? Fine. If they can't absolutely peg down why then just tell you and go elsewhere NOT to essentially give up on a car so fast!


Hurry with this as running poorly for any reason will snowball into needing more and costly. Do at least check engine oil level yourself and be sure it's correct or get help even with that. Correct oil for the car only if needed.
Then get this diagnosed. You have no useful info from this last place that I can see.


Car is ~20 years old. Fine. If well cared for even with some surprises along the way doesn't mean it's over. You have lower miles for the age and seem to pay attention.


Again: It needs a proper diagnosis and estimate to fix the problem first. That and to you is car generally in good shape to even spend few bucks only you can decide but know what is really up not the top post bull that means nothing so far,


T

Response From janniehank

All stuff was done by mechanic shop. Up until 111,000 miles same guy then he retired and found new shop. We didn't check to see if they overfilled the oil, but they did just change the oil only a couple of wks ago.

It is a 1.9 L engine as all papers show this.

Husband thinks he might be able to change out the coil if that's what's bad. Who knows. I didn't know why they didn't put it on the analizer. Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Oil change times are scary at certain places but I really suggest making sure oil is right by dipsticks no matter who or where they get done. It's a time to leave a hose a line off, oil filter not tight or wrong in some way, failed drain plug or its gasket then checking when filling up that it's right. IMO A qt. off up or down isn't going to instantly be a problem for say 4qt systems or more.


Gotta go soon. If this somehow is a coil issue and it does look like that an easy check is to spray/mist it with even Windex no pure clean water is the point, and see if that show arcing spark or kills it right away. With engine cool as not to shock it with cool mist all at once - these parts can crack from that.
BTW - your engine size should be listed on a sticker under the hood. Best reason to know is I think even up to 1996 Ford, Mercury were basically totally Mazda on some with just putting on all nameplates of a Ford or Mercury, then the Tracer.


Good luck. Unless oil is wildly wrong it's unusual to me for sudden fatal engine failures without some reason,


T

Response From janniehank

We have appointment with the mechanic, but it doesn't sound good. We changed the coil out with a new one. The engine started but sounds louder than it did before with a loud knock. I'm afraid it'll new engine. suppose the analizing machine can tell that. We checked oil. it was at the correct level

Response From Discretesignals

They don't have a machine to tell you what is knocking around inside your engine. To diagnose something like that sometimes experience helps along with a some type of tool to pinpoint the noise with, such as a mechanic's stethoscope or a long shanked screw driver.

Response From janniehank

Resolved - needed a different engine. Changed out the engine and it's working fine now! Hurrah!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - I'll call this thread solved as no point in discussing old engine now. Good luck with the replacement. Locking thread to keep spammers out. YOU may ask any moderator to re-open it if you wish,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Again -Can't say. I can' think of how that coil could make a "knock" noise but not there hearing it either. If so why and is it real or some stupid thing overlooked I/we don't know.


If worried enough don't even drive the car or run it anymore. Let an experience ear hear this and do tests before declaring this engine is toast and an approach from there if so?


Good luck that it's something silly?


T

2001 chevy tracker, oil light when going over 55mph

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From dtro on 2001 chevy tracker, oil light when going over 55mph

2001 chevy tracker
2.0 engine with 4 cylinders
175k miles.
(car has sat still for around 6-7 months without use)

issue:
when going over 55mph my oil light starts to blink. when i hit 65 it stays on. however when i check my oil, its at the proper levels.
also when hitting 55mph i feel a loss of power. it feels like the tracker does not want to go over 55, to hit 70 i am almost flooring it. the car drives perfectly fine under 55mph.

things done to try and fix it:

first thing: i did a oil change, with high mileage, and had breaks cleaned.

second thing: i did a tune up, seeing one of my cylinders was missing a bolt and was cuasing a rattling sound.

third thing i did was change out the catalyst converters, seeing i failed emissions. and the guy said there appears to be a slight oil leak, however he wasnt sure where it was coming from.

fourth thing, when driving it 45 miles to pick up something, i didnt notice the light blinking till i was half way there. i took it to a mechanic there, and told him everything. he said that he cant find any oil leak, however my oil filter was wrong one for my vehicle. and that my oil looked too thin for my vehicle. so i did the oil change and had that fixed.

i check oil levels before and after use. and it stays the same.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Oh boy - If that's the oil warning for low pressure it doesn't mean stare at it for amusement it means shut the engine down at once and find out why - right then, right away and even verify actual pressure with a separate gauge.
Why could it do this? A. Oil return drains clogged and it oil is all up inside valve cover can't return fast enough. Wild engine wear by the second when low enough oil pressure will result up by your description already has and engine will probably be found beyond reasonable repair.
Oil pump could be at fault but pressure test would help.
Wrong oil filter IDK - would totally depend on what was wrong about that.
Oil leak? May have pools of oil up high in engine and gaskets can't take that.
Thin oil: Might be fuel in oil which makes oil lose it lubricating quality and wears engine out more by the minute of use. May show high oil level when checked by dipstick.
So all this work you've done none of which checked the real issue was probably a waste. Still time to know for sure with a separate oil pressure gauge, find out why low with some other tests so you know for sure if it's worth fixing at all or another engine is the fix if vehicle is worth it on other respects,


T

Response From dtro

thank you for replying.

it did show high oil amounts before i visited the mechanic who said thin oil. i will take it to a mehanic for the presssure test. i was thinking of replacing the oil pump next, it is a expensive fix. so was hoping it wasnt it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes - oil pressure test but if accurate and was driven with light on like that with fuel no doubt in oil serious engine wear already took place so an oil pump isn't the problem - wear is and beyond reasonable costs to fix all that would be worn unfortunately.
Ask for a compression check or do one. The low oil pressure if TRUE is oil leaking out serious over worn bearings in cam and crankshaft plus everything else it lubes - fatal to an engine MOST of the time if not shut off right away and was real,


T

Response From dtro

ok. i will do a pressure and compression check. as far as oil leak. im not sure where it is going. when i check under the car there is never a spill or anything. even with cardboard under the car. however when i drive it, when i get home and check it, its outof oil, even though its full when i left.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

OK - finding leaks the source will usually be the highest and most forward of where evidence is found. Wipe dry or spray oils clean first with like a carb cleaner and see it come back or check soon the just clean area(s.)
Some common areas will be gaskets for valve covers or intake, oil pressure senders switches, front and rear main seals, oil pan gaskets, some oil filter mountings are not direct to engine but remote or altered with part to allow for them.
This speaks nothing for fuel getting in oil. That you can smell usually and find oil too full and thin as already noted. Thin with fuel is going leak easier than just oil + maybe harm a seal or item but alone really shouldn't.
If PCV system can't overcome expected blow by the entire crankcase will be under some level of pressure and oil might be found even in air intake parts. You can see this excessive blow by out a dipstick tube with smoke, a bubble check even with soapy water just over tube but knowing PCV is fully operational first. There actually should be minute vacuum that could be seen from a dipstick tube with engine at idle but not lots, just 1/2 an Hg of mercury or so.
The real issue is finding the extent of wear of this problem so you can decided what to do.
Don't waste $$ on tricks or oil modifiers, or the endless magic in a bottle cures for worn engines - the plain don't fix real problems and likely make it worse!
Knowing the real state of this engine may be bad news for this but better to know than waste more $$ than other choices,


T

Response From dtro

i did a look around the the engine and under the vehicle. didn't find a leak. however i turned it on and search again. and found out the drain plug was leaking, it is very tight also. also sometime within next few days i will take it to a mechanic for the compression and pressure test. its been cold lately so not many places have been open. plus i have been working. as far as smells go. we used to smell a burning oil smell. it died off after like a hour of driving. haven't smelt it since. also when checking the oil, one side is fully oiled. the other side is half full within limit,

do you recommend someone attempting to change the oil pump if they have never done it before, but have read up alot on how to do it?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Wait on an oil pump till engine is declared worth any more work.
Cold where I am too + too cold for outdoor work anyway.
There's now only a tiny chance if a higher volume oil pump if oil pressure is really showing low can keep up to pressure but the wear wont heal is the trouble so just a patch for short time IMO if that works at all.
Oil pick up in pan could also be plugged with junk/sludge and sludge alone by the time oil can't get around properly kills an engine.
Kinda smacks of this is a lost cause for this engine to me.
Wait for results and expect the real problems running an engine with excessively low oil pressure does which is kill it. That's why the warning light is there that you ignored and are paying for that now,


T

Response From dtro

it is just sitting there right now. when it first happened i was too far from home to just pull over, and call a tow truck. we did get off the interstate though and drove it where the light wasnt on. with all the info we have talked about, it does sound like i should give up. but i still have some hope. i am going to do the 2 tests. along with a diagnostic.

i really appreciate the help, i have learned alot. i geuss it is true, if a car sits too long random things starts going bad.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote from first post ">>
issue:
when going over 55mph my oil light starts to blink. when i hit 65 it stays on. however when i check my oil, its at the proper levels.
also when hitting 55mph i feel a loss of power. it feels like the tracker does not want to go over 55, to hit 70 i am almost flooring it. the car drives perfectly fine under 55mph."


That's about all anyone needs to hear but do expound. How long (time) with oil light not even blinking? With some it means less than a minute if ZERO lube to seized!
Doesn't totally matter that it sat for 6-7 months this issue if oil pressure was working properly might be late to quit the warning on first start and fine after that.
It totally is credible that it's sludge up or was soooo thin of oil is wore out. Gasoline if enough and doesn't take much oil would leak down at first step of lubing engine never making far enough for the rest an light or a warning - gauge should be in this thing but either way you can't run them that way. Read an owner's manual to anything and see what it says - SHUT DOWN AT ONCE! That or real close to that not when you find it handy or a next exit type thing. It was wearing so much it couldn't even keep up speed damns the issue that it was about to seize right up but just didn't or we wouldn't be discussing it right now.
An engine doesn't have ball or roller bearings rather oil as a film under pressure lubes such that there's close to ZERO metal to metal contact on crank bearings, camshaft bearings, connecting rod bearing, cylinder walls to pistons and more passive lubrication of rocker arms, timing chain. Lifters are held in place by oil pressure but could stay where they were and still allow it to run at all.
Since it didn't seize up the tests will tell where you stand with this. Can't say 100% that it wouldn't snap out of it and run long enough without oil warnings to at least sell it off but damage was done that isn't going to heal IMO from just you saying it couldn't drive fast the friction was probably so bad - if not that might be from lifters collapsing but surprised they came back at lower speed.
Several scenarios might have cause this. Sludged up engine with wild chunks of sludge being moved too fast both plugging oil return ports and pick up screen for the oil pump. That problem you get a fair idea looking at a dipstick for sludge, oil cap and some you can see in thru removed oil cap for a clue.
Any which way lack of oil pressure happened it's deadly to the engine.
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IDK - Imagine this: You are barefoot sliding on water constantly on a plastic mat when covered in water no problem but if it quit you burn the skin right off your feet in no time.
That's what a couple tests will show. It doesn't fix the reason there was too much oil if from fuel so that would still need to be fixed at once too if any chance of this engine living much longer at all,


T