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Premium Guard
1991 Mercury Capri Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 1.6L Premium Guard

P311-2208BBC    PO4612  New

Qty:
$3.11
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Supersede: Replaces PO4610 once inventory is depleted
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1991 - Mercury Capri L 1598 98
Full
2009 Mercury Mariner Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-53B166B    W0133-1837783  New

Qty:
$7.32
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - Single Filter
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
2009 - Mercury Mariner
Motorcraft
2009 Mercury Mariner Engine Oil Filter Motorcraft

P311-106AA18    W0133-1837783  New

Qty:
$9.58
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - Single Filter
Brand: Motorcraft
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
2009 - Mercury Mariner
Full
2009 Mercury Sable Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-53B166B    W0133-1837783  New

Qty:
$7.32
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/16/2009-
  • - Single Filter
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
2009 - Mercury Sable
Motorcraft
2009 Mercury Sable Engine Oil Filter Motorcraft

P311-106AA18    W0133-1837783  New

Qty:
$9.58
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/16/2009-
  • - Single Filter
Brand: Motorcraft
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
2009 - Mercury Sable
Full
2005 Mercury Mariner Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-1994C93    W0133-1911670  New

Qty:
$7.54
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - Single Filter
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
2005 - Mercury Mariner
Motorcraft
2005 Mercury Mariner Engine Oil Filter Motorcraft

P311-5983C86    W0133-1911670  New

Qty:
$8.43
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - Single Filter
Brand: Motorcraft
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Mercury Mariner
Motorcraft
1980 Mercury Capri Engine Oil Filter Motorcraft

P311-58FDE5E    W0133-1788296  New

Qty:
$10.41
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Mercury Capri
Motorcraft
1985 Mercury Grand Marquis Engine Oil Filter Motorcraft

P311-58FDE5E    W0133-1788296  New

Qty:
$10.41
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Excludes Auxiliary Oil Cooler
Brand: Motorcraft
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
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Vehicle
1985 - Mercury Grand Marquis
Full
1999 Mercury Cougar Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-340E9B0    W0133-1698807  New

Qty:
$6.65
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mercury Cougar
Full
1999 Mercury Cougar Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-340E9B0    W0133-1698807  New

Qty:
$6.93
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Single Filter
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mercury Cougar
Full
2009 Mercury Sable Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-340E9B0    W0133-1698807  New

Qty:
$6.65
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -01/15/2009
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mercury Sable
Full
2009 Mercury Sable Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-340E9B0    W0133-1698807  New

Qty:
$6.93
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -01/15/2009
  • Single Filter
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mercury Sable
Full
1999 Mercury Cougar Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-120BF6B    W0133-1786736  New

Qty:
$6.34
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mercury Cougar
Full
1999 Mercury Cougar Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-120BF6B    W0133-1786736  New

Qty:
$8.96
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - Single Filter
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mercury Cougar
Motorcraft
1999 Mercury Cougar Engine Oil Filter Motorcraft

P311-144CA94    W0133-1786736  New

Qty:
$10.48
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - Single Filter
Brand: Motorcraft
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mercury Cougar
Motorcraft
2009 Mercury Mariner Engine Oil Filter Motorcraft

P311-106AA18    W0133-1837783  New

Qty:
$8.94
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - Case of 12
  • This Product Must be Purchased in Quantities of : 12
    • You must purchase this item in multiples of 12. Your order will be delayed and possibly canceled if another amount is specified.
Brand: Motorcraft
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mercury Mariner
Motorcraft
2009 Mercury Sable Engine Oil Filter Motorcraft

P311-106AA18    W0133-1837783  New

Qty:
$8.94
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 01/16/2009-
  • - Case of 12
  • This Product Must be Purchased in Quantities of : 12
    • You must purchase this item in multiples of 12. Your order will be delayed and possibly canceled if another amount is specified.
Brand: Motorcraft
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mercury Sable
Motorcraft
1999 Mercury Cougar Engine Oil Filter Motorcraft

P311-1FCB293    W0133-1698807  New

Qty:
$10.29
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Single Filter
Brand: Motorcraft
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mercury Cougar
Mahle
1999 Mercury Cougar Engine Oil Filter Mahle

P311-0735599    W0133-1698807  New

Qty:
$10.57
Mahle Engine Oil Filter
  • Single Filter - Spin-On
Brand: Mahle
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Mercury Cougar

Latest Mercury Repair and Oil Filter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

help with a 97 cougar

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From cougar owner on help with a 97 cougar

alright. i have a 97 mercury cougar, 3.8. When I accelarate , it bogs down real bad. We've replaced the fuel pump, fuel regulator, cam sensor, spark plugs, fuel filter and oil filter. Fuel pressure is where it's supposed to be now. Last, we cleaned out the catalyct converters, (3 of them) It is a little better now that we did that, but it is still bogging down. any suggestions?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

I'd get a full code reading for more info. Just how did you "clean out" the converters?

T

transmission pan empty, even after fill. burning trans fluid w/ thick white smoke from exhaust

Showing 2 out of 24 Posts | Show 22 Hidden Posts
Question From elester3 on transmission pan empty, even after fill. burning trans fluid w/ thick white smoke from exhaust

2002 mercury sable, 120000 miles.

Hit a huge rock in the road, busted trans pan, drained all fluid but was stopped after the bang. Wasn't driven after. After removing old pan I saw the filter was also broken. We replaced filter, gasket, and new pan. We filled it back up with trans fluid, but still nothing. No shifting whatsoever. Thought maybe it was still low, added more and then thick white smoke came billowing from tail pipe, shut off car immediately.
Next I removed the pan to check filter was properly seated, it was, but the was little to no transmission fluid in the pan.
What could stop it from making it to pan, and what can I do about the smoke?

Response From Hammer Time

Check to see if you have a vacuum line going to a modulator valve. If so, pull the hose and see if there is any oil in it. That would account for the smoke but not the lack of movement so you likely have other internal damage.

Response From elester3

If there is oil on it, what do I do about it?

Response From Hammer Time

Replace the modulator valve but that still doesn't explain the car not moving. You need to get it to a trans shop for diagnosis.

Response From Discretesignals

I don't think they have vacuum modulators on those. Line pressure is controlled by the pressure control solenoid. Anything leaking from the transmission when the engine is running. Maybe fluid is leaking onto the hot exhaust pipe or cats?

Response From elester3

Nothing is leaking. The fluid isn't even making it to the pan, new filter is still dry.

Response From Discretesignals

Where are you pouring the fluid into?

Response From elester3

The stem for transmission dipstick

Response From Discretesignals

You sure about that? How is the engine's oil level?

Response From elester3

Positive.. not near it now to check

Response From Discretesignals

Just checking, because it's possible that you may be filling the wrong dipstick tube. You overfill the engine with transmission fluid and it will smoke.

Response From elester3 Top Rated Answer

I think I may have done that come to think of it. If so, oil, oil filter change, and adding to proper whole fix it? No damage?

Response From Discretesignals

That will fix the engine if you happened to by accident put the transmission fluid into the engine. It may smoke for a while till it burns the transmission fluid off. The O2 sensors probably won't like that, so it's possible the O2 sensors could fail.

Response From elester3

OK thanks for helping realize my lack of attention! Hopefully all goes well tomoro. Thanks again.. I feel foolish lol

Response From Discretesignals

Believe me, it happens more than you think.

Response From elester3

I see recommendations to do an oil flush before oil change with this issue. Would you recommend this with 6qts trans fluid, or just drain and let it burn off?

Response From Discretesignals

Transmission fluid won't hurt the engine internals unless you drive around with it in there. Just do an oil and filter change and you'll be fine. Engine holds 5.8 quarts 5W-20 if you have the 3.0L DOHC and 4.5 quarts 5w-20 if you have the 3.0L OHV U motor.

Transmission takes Mercon V ATF. Look in your owner's manual and it should show you where the transmission dipstick tube is.

Response From elester3

Msg at bottom says follow up when resolved.. that mean I should post, you were right, I'm a dummy.. its fixed tomoro?

Response From Hammer Time

I guess I need to think outside the box more.

Response From elester3

Haha it was a foolish error on my part. I've been working on my own cars since I was driving.. just trying yo do too much at once with distractions.
All is well now thanks guys!

Response From Discretesignals

Don't worry about it. That stuff happens. That's if that is what happened. You'll know, if you end up draining 11 quarts of oil out of the engine tomorrow.

Response From elester3

Thank you so much. I can't yell you how much stress you have relieved from me. It was my brothers car, just trying to help him out and I thought I did major damage. Thanks again. Karma lkes people like you.

Response From elester3

Its coming from the tailpipe. That's what I was hoping that it was dripping. But you can hear the difference in the sound of engine running.

Response From elester3

Will do thank you

oil puddle, car cranks but won't turn over

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From mcathie1 on oil puddle, car cranks but won't turn over

Hello, I have a 2009 Mercury Mariner Premier, 2.5l 4cyl, AWD, 6spd auto. After running errands, I went to park my car, the car cutoff on me. I tried to restart it, it cranks but will not turn over, all the lights are fine-not dimming. I got out and found a big puddle of oil underneath. I am praying that I don't have to get a whole new engine. Within the last 3 months, I got an oil change, and they had to install a new steering column, but no other problems were going on with my car. Any ideas? I currently just work part-time due to medical issues- so money is seriously non-existent :-( . Any ideas on how much money I need to set my goal towards? Thanks in advance for any information/ideas/help.

Response From Discretesignals

First, someone needs to get under there and determine where the oil leak is coming from. Did you check the oil level on the engine's dipstick?

it cranks but will not turn over Not sure what you mean. It cranks, but the engine will not start?

Response From mcathie1

Thanks for responding. The dipstick showed about 1/4 oil level. I'm working on getting someone to look at it, but trying to find someone willing to make a house-call, since can't afford a tow until the weekend. When I turned the key, i heard a clicking/ticking sound. (Sorry, I thought that meant cranking- i'm not up on the "car lingo")

Response From Discretesignals

Click ticking sound could be from a starter solenoid not getting enough power, but that is a tough call to make without actually seeing the vehicle. Really should wait and see where that oil leak came from first through. Let us know what they find out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

? Is engine turning or is this "clicking" just a normal starter and battery fighting a tight or seized engine! Yikes what words you choose make a world of difference.
Finding a puddle under car isn't great news. Finding out why is mandatory - recent oil change suggests check drain plug and oil filter. Speedy oil change places are famous for wrecking drain plugs and messing up oil filters if applicable but anybody could.
No money but still things you can check. Try to find out if engine is really turning at proper speed or not at all just looking at it while trying and knowing oil level is full enough.
Until found and some money if required I wouldn't use this car. You can tell if battery is strong with headlights on and cranking it. If they go dim and slow crank it's either tight engine or low battery power. Clicking is usually the solenoid meant to do that if it's that you are hearing when low power for the demand of cranking isn't enough it should just do multiple clicks like a machine gun sound not conclusive but power and need doesn't match so does that on purpose.
Know what terms you are using so it doesn't confuse the issue. I/we think saying you found a puddle of oil say volumes! Scared about that!


T

Response From mcathie1

Thank you both for helping me with information & ideas. Sorry again about my "car lingo". I will let you know what they find. Hugs to y'all..

2001 chevy tracker, oil light when going over 55mph

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From dtro on 2001 chevy tracker, oil light when going over 55mph

2001 chevy tracker
2.0 engine with 4 cylinders
175k miles.
(car has sat still for around 6-7 months without use)

issue:
when going over 55mph my oil light starts to blink. when i hit 65 it stays on. however when i check my oil, its at the proper levels.
also when hitting 55mph i feel a loss of power. it feels like the tracker does not want to go over 55, to hit 70 i am almost flooring it. the car drives perfectly fine under 55mph.

things done to try and fix it:

first thing: i did a oil change, with high mileage, and had breaks cleaned.

second thing: i did a tune up, seeing one of my cylinders was missing a bolt and was cuasing a rattling sound.

third thing i did was change out the catalyst converters, seeing i failed emissions. and the guy said there appears to be a slight oil leak, however he wasnt sure where it was coming from.

fourth thing, when driving it 45 miles to pick up something, i didnt notice the light blinking till i was half way there. i took it to a mechanic there, and told him everything. he said that he cant find any oil leak, however my oil filter was wrong one for my vehicle. and that my oil looked too thin for my vehicle. so i did the oil change and had that fixed.

i check oil levels before and after use. and it stays the same.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Oh boy - If that's the oil warning for low pressure it doesn't mean stare at it for amusement it means shut the engine down at once and find out why - right then, right away and even verify actual pressure with a separate gauge.
Why could it do this? A. Oil return drains clogged and it oil is all up inside valve cover can't return fast enough. Wild engine wear by the second when low enough oil pressure will result up by your description already has and engine will probably be found beyond reasonable repair.
Oil pump could be at fault but pressure test would help.
Wrong oil filter IDK - would totally depend on what was wrong about that.
Oil leak? May have pools of oil up high in engine and gaskets can't take that.
Thin oil: Might be fuel in oil which makes oil lose it lubricating quality and wears engine out more by the minute of use. May show high oil level when checked by dipstick.
So all this work you've done none of which checked the real issue was probably a waste. Still time to know for sure with a separate oil pressure gauge, find out why low with some other tests so you know for sure if it's worth fixing at all or another engine is the fix if vehicle is worth it on other respects,


T

Response From dtro

thank you for replying.

it did show high oil amounts before i visited the mechanic who said thin oil. i will take it to a mehanic for the presssure test. i was thinking of replacing the oil pump next, it is a expensive fix. so was hoping it wasnt it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes - oil pressure test but if accurate and was driven with light on like that with fuel no doubt in oil serious engine wear already took place so an oil pump isn't the problem - wear is and beyond reasonable costs to fix all that would be worn unfortunately.
Ask for a compression check or do one. The low oil pressure if TRUE is oil leaking out serious over worn bearings in cam and crankshaft plus everything else it lubes - fatal to an engine MOST of the time if not shut off right away and was real,


T

Response From dtro

ok. i will do a pressure and compression check. as far as oil leak. im not sure where it is going. when i check under the car there is never a spill or anything. even with cardboard under the car. however when i drive it, when i get home and check it, its outof oil, even though its full when i left.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

OK - finding leaks the source will usually be the highest and most forward of where evidence is found. Wipe dry or spray oils clean first with like a carb cleaner and see it come back or check soon the just clean area(s.)
Some common areas will be gaskets for valve covers or intake, oil pressure senders switches, front and rear main seals, oil pan gaskets, some oil filter mountings are not direct to engine but remote or altered with part to allow for them.
This speaks nothing for fuel getting in oil. That you can smell usually and find oil too full and thin as already noted. Thin with fuel is going leak easier than just oil + maybe harm a seal or item but alone really shouldn't.
If PCV system can't overcome expected blow by the entire crankcase will be under some level of pressure and oil might be found even in air intake parts. You can see this excessive blow by out a dipstick tube with smoke, a bubble check even with soapy water just over tube but knowing PCV is fully operational first. There actually should be minute vacuum that could be seen from a dipstick tube with engine at idle but not lots, just 1/2 an Hg of mercury or so.
The real issue is finding the extent of wear of this problem so you can decided what to do.
Don't waste $$ on tricks or oil modifiers, or the endless magic in a bottle cures for worn engines - the plain don't fix real problems and likely make it worse!
Knowing the real state of this engine may be bad news for this but better to know than waste more $$ than other choices,


T

Response From dtro

i did a look around the the engine and under the vehicle. didn't find a leak. however i turned it on and search again. and found out the drain plug was leaking, it is very tight also. also sometime within next few days i will take it to a mechanic for the compression and pressure test. its been cold lately so not many places have been open. plus i have been working. as far as smells go. we used to smell a burning oil smell. it died off after like a hour of driving. haven't smelt it since. also when checking the oil, one side is fully oiled. the other side is half full within limit,

do you recommend someone attempting to change the oil pump if they have never done it before, but have read up alot on how to do it?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Wait on an oil pump till engine is declared worth any more work.
Cold where I am too + too cold for outdoor work anyway.
There's now only a tiny chance if a higher volume oil pump if oil pressure is really showing low can keep up to pressure but the wear wont heal is the trouble so just a patch for short time IMO if that works at all.
Oil pick up in pan could also be plugged with junk/sludge and sludge alone by the time oil can't get around properly kills an engine.
Kinda smacks of this is a lost cause for this engine to me.
Wait for results and expect the real problems running an engine with excessively low oil pressure does which is kill it. That's why the warning light is there that you ignored and are paying for that now,


T

Response From dtro

it is just sitting there right now. when it first happened i was too far from home to just pull over, and call a tow truck. we did get off the interstate though and drove it where the light wasnt on. with all the info we have talked about, it does sound like i should give up. but i still have some hope. i am going to do the 2 tests. along with a diagnostic.

i really appreciate the help, i have learned alot. i geuss it is true, if a car sits too long random things starts going bad.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote from first post ">>
issue:
when going over 55mph my oil light starts to blink. when i hit 65 it stays on. however when i check my oil, its at the proper levels.
also when hitting 55mph i feel a loss of power. it feels like the tracker does not want to go over 55, to hit 70 i am almost flooring it. the car drives perfectly fine under 55mph."


That's about all anyone needs to hear but do expound. How long (time) with oil light not even blinking? With some it means less than a minute if ZERO lube to seized!
Doesn't totally matter that it sat for 6-7 months this issue if oil pressure was working properly might be late to quit the warning on first start and fine after that.
It totally is credible that it's sludge up or was soooo thin of oil is wore out. Gasoline if enough and doesn't take much oil would leak down at first step of lubing engine never making far enough for the rest an light or a warning - gauge should be in this thing but either way you can't run them that way. Read an owner's manual to anything and see what it says - SHUT DOWN AT ONCE! That or real close to that not when you find it handy or a next exit type thing. It was wearing so much it couldn't even keep up speed damns the issue that it was about to seize right up but just didn't or we wouldn't be discussing it right now.
An engine doesn't have ball or roller bearings rather oil as a film under pressure lubes such that there's close to ZERO metal to metal contact on crank bearings, camshaft bearings, connecting rod bearing, cylinder walls to pistons and more passive lubrication of rocker arms, timing chain. Lifters are held in place by oil pressure but could stay where they were and still allow it to run at all.
Since it didn't seize up the tests will tell where you stand with this. Can't say 100% that it wouldn't snap out of it and run long enough without oil warnings to at least sell it off but damage was done that isn't going to heal IMO from just you saying it couldn't drive fast the friction was probably so bad - if not that might be from lifters collapsing but surprised they came back at lower speed.
Several scenarios might have cause this. Sludged up engine with wild chunks of sludge being moved too fast both plugging oil return ports and pick up screen for the oil pump. That problem you get a fair idea looking at a dipstick for sludge, oil cap and some you can see in thru removed oil cap for a clue.
Any which way lack of oil pressure happened it's deadly to the engine.
*****************************
IDK - Imagine this: You are barefoot sliding on water constantly on a plastic mat when covered in water no problem but if it quit you burn the skin right off your feet in no time.
That's what a couple tests will show. It doesn't fix the reason there was too much oil if from fuel so that would still need to be fixed at once too if any chance of this engine living much longer at all,


T

Is my engine burning too much oil?

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From JMac60 on Is my engine burning too much oil?

I drive an old, high mileage car, a 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis with ~180,000 miles. It's been a great car. I've personally put over 100,000 miles on this car and have literally NEVER needed any repairs (apart from brakes and tires).

Recently I had the oil changed, and the technician told me that the oil level was very low (not registering on the dipstick). No signs that it was leaking.

FULL DISCLOSURE: While I'm usually good about changing the oil every 5,000 miles or so, this time around I let it go far too long between changes, about 17,000 miles (I have a long commute, so the miles pile up quickly).

My question is - should I be concerned that the oil level was so low, or is that what one would expect from such an old car that went so long between oil changes?

Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

I'd be more concerned about the owner that goes 17K for an oil change and never checks his oil.

Response From JMac60

LOL! Yes, no excuse for that, I admit. I usually take meticulous care of the car, but have been on the road for work (that 17K miles was over just a few months) and let things slip.

Response From Hammer Time

We'll let you off the hook this time.

With that many miles it would be expected to burn a little oil. You need to check it more often before you fry the motor.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

17,000 is too many miles on any engine oil no matter what they claim.
You should be checking this yourself by dipstick on a routine no longer relying on a "check oil" light some even when working require a good bit more than a quart low. I check if they work by say put just 3 of 5 if so for a car in and see if then are still working. At some age many don't.
You really don't know how low the place found it unless they measure it and drained the oil filter which would hold some that wont drain out and nobody has time for that. If dangerously low another warning for oil pressure should have aluminated which is a too late warning and perhaps some engine knocking at first. In short you may be OK just don't go that long again and do check yourself.
BTW - Many oil dipsticks mark low a quart range and the full mark. Many also don't read much below one quart low and many engines will have full oil pressure lower than one quart low. Well, it didn't seize up so it had something.
IMO - If running well now change it earlier a coupe times. Any sludge from excessive miles may clear up?
T