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Premium Guard
1990 Mazda Miata Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 1.6L Premium Guard

P311-2208BBC    PO4612  New

Qty:
$3.02
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Supersede: Replaces PO4610 once inventory is depleted
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1990 - Mazda Miata L 1597 -
Premium Guard
2010 Mazda RX-8 Engine Oil Filter 2 Cyl 1.3L Premium Guard

P311-2208BBC    PO4612  New

Qty:
$3.02
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Supersede: Replaces PO4610 once inventory is depleted Manufacturer recommends 7,500 miles oil change intervals with synthetic oil and Extended Life Filter
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2010 - Mazda RX-8 R 1308 -
Premium Guard
2012 Mazda 3 Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.0L Premium Guard

P311-2208BBC    PO4612  New

Qty:
$3.02
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Supersede: Replaces PO4610 once inventory is depleted SkyActiv Manufacturer recommends 7,500 miles oil change intervals with synthetic oil and Extended Life Filter
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine Version
2012 - Mazda 3 L 1998 122 SKYACTIV
Premium Guard
2013 Mazda CX-5 Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.0L Premium Guard

P311-2208BBC    PO4612  New

Qty:
$3.02
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Supersede: Replaces PO4610 once inventory is depleted SkyActiv
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine Version
2013 - Mazda CX-5 L 1998 122 SKYACTIV
Full
2000 Mazda MPV Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-10F12E3    W0133-1791659  New

Qty:
$5.49
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Mazda MPV
Full
2000 Mazda MPV Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-10F12E3    W0133-1791659  New

Qty:
$9.41
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • - Single Filter
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2000 - Mazda MPV
Full
2009 Mazda Tribute Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-10F12E3    W0133-1791659  New

Qty:
$5.49
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -06/23/2008
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mazda Tribute
Full
2009 Mazda Tribute Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-10F12E3    W0133-1791659  New

Qty:
$9.41
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: -06/23/2008
  • - Single Filter
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mazda Tribute
Full
1977 Mazda GLC Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-18EC806    W0133-2058166  New

Qty:
$7.87
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1977 - Mazda GLC
Full
1990 Mazda Miata Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-18EC806    W0133-2058166  New

Qty:
$7.87
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Cannot use filter # N3Y6 -14-302 for this model.
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Mazda Miata
NPN
1995 Mazda Millenia Engine Oil Filter NPN

P311-0872FBD    W0133-1918642  New

Qty:
$6.91
NPN Engine Oil Filter
Brand: NPN
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Mazda Millenia
Full
1995 Mazda Millenia Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-441A7EF    W0133-1918642  New

Qty:
$6.30
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Mazda Millenia
Full
2009 Mazda RX-8 Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-50EFF02    W0133-1830657  New

Qty:
$7.78
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Not the same as B6Y1-14-302-9A
  • Parts Flash 08-13
Brand: Full
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Mazda RX-8
Genuine
2013 Mazda CX-5 Engine Oil Filter Genuine

P311-58FBAC0    W0133-2077508  New

Qty:
$10.74
Genuine Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - Mazda CX-5
Mahle
1977 Mazda GLC Engine Oil Filter Mahle

P311-1918108    W0133-2058166  New

Qty:
$11.02
Mahle Engine Oil Filter
  • - Spin-On
Brand: Mahle
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1977 - Mazda GLC
Mahle
1990 Mazda Miata Engine Oil Filter Mahle

P311-1918108    W0133-2058166  New

Qty:
$11.02
Mahle Engine Oil Filter
  • Cannot use filter # N3Y6 -14-302 for this model.
  • - Spin-On
Brand: Mahle
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1990 - Mazda Miata
NPN
1995 Mazda Millenia Engine Oil Filter NPN

P311-0872FBD    W0133-1918642  New

Qty:
$3.77
NPN Engine Oil Filter
  • - Ht-85mm / Dia-69mm
Brand: NPN
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Mazda Millenia
Genuine
2013 Mazda CX-5 Engine Oil Filter Genuine

P311-58FBAC0    W0133-2077508  New

Qty:
$8.79
Genuine Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - Mazda CX-5
Premium Guard
2001 Mazda Tribute Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 3.0L Premium Guard

P311-0E90C3B    PO4651  New

Qty:
$3.19
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Supersede: Replaces PG291 once inventory is depleted
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2001 - Mazda Tribute V 2968 181
Premium Guard
2004 Mazda 3 Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.0L Premium Guard

P311-42378AC    PO241  New

Qty:
$2.86
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Supersede: Replaces PG2821A once inventory is depleted
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2004 - Mazda 3 L 2000 122

Latest Mazda Repair and Oil Filter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Mazda 5 2006 Camshaft problem

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From ladraz on Mazda 5 2006 Camshaft problem

While my dad was driving he saw the oil light on so he stop buy a auto shop and topped up the oil...5 miles later the car stalled...we towed it to the mechanic..they saw that the oil filter was not there...(no one has any idea how it feel out) because the oil was due to change in one month and it was connected to the car the day before since we used it for over 3 hours...now they topped up the oil added a filter and the car did not start...so they did a car scan and got a code about the timing..so they opened the camblock to find that the camshaft and the block was damage...so my question from the pictures i posted do i need just a new camshaft or do i need the whole block too? you would see a ring on the inside of the block to the first part hold the shaft.

picture link here...

camshaft

camshaft block

damage part of the block

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

You would need a camshaft and the cylinder head. If the top end bearings are damaged, more than likely there is going to be damage on the lower end. Maybe you should drop the old pan and take a look at the bottom end bearings. It is also possible that you can have ring, skirt or bore damage, so you might want to consider installing another engine.

You should also shoot that last person that did the oil change. I'd like to know how the filter fell out since it is a cartridge filter.

Also tell your Dad the next time a low oil pressure light comes on, pull off the side of the road and turn the engine off. Don't drive it with the oil light on looking for a store to buy some oil. If he had to dump 4 quarts in, something is way wrong and he should of looked underneath the vehicle. He might have saved the engine, but too late for that.

Response From ladraz

Thanks mate

Response From Hammer Time

The oil filter fell off and the engine quit from lack of oil.

You're looking at a new engine here.

Filters

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From rhiebert on Filters

What criteria to you use to get your next filters for your next service appointment? Do you swallow the hook, line and sinker from your service guy?

Response From ksmp

Hi there!

I'm working on a research project for which the topic was assigned. I know nothing about car maintenance. I'm sure you are far more knowledgeable on the topic than I am. Could you take my survey here (Car Maintenance Survey) and then post what you thought of the survey? Should I add any questions? Did it make sense? I'd really appreciate it.

Thank you!
KSMP

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Can't complete your survey. Keep it simple and just ask what folks are seeking in a product and sort it yourself. This survey just attempts to create some marketing chart to sell filters at chain parts stores which is important. Professional techs buy for price or quality and would usually have both available.

Sales personel at parts stores should be trained experts and rarely are. It's a trade unto itself and should be. Car parts shouldn't be like buying groceries. Market should be demand driven by reputation not the best underhanded marketing!

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Best filters I know of are made by Wix and NAPA gold is the Wix filter. Not cheap. Air filters use much more material and the fuel and oil filters it's out of sight but the case is stronger metal and more rust resistant.

The chain places can get an oil filter for less than a buck!! It's ok but can't take the abuse of better stuff and it's always right to take care on your car on time even if not the best stuff. T

PS: The up front cost of quality is usually the bargain as things last longer - take more abuse and in the long run are cheaper!

Response From Brian1

Tom, I couldn’t agree more!!!!
Dirt and metal shavings are the worst enemy to any engine!!!

The largest filter company in the world has it’s world headquarters about 4 blocks from my house. Donaldson Company makes filters for ALL applications…. Heavy equipment engines, Hydraulic systems, air filters, noise filters and fuel filters. They own MANY other smaller filter companies but kept their old names after they bought them out. I have seen the multi million dollar testing equipment they use for testing the efficiency of their filters compared to other brands. They measure the efficiency of oil filters in “microns”……. They actually make a 1 micron hydraulic oil filter!!!! (the lower the micron = cleaner oil) It’s probably overkill…. but they do make it!!!

I’m with Tom on this….. I also use the Napa Gold filters on my vehicles. Pay a little more money now and it will pay off in the long run!!!!

The hydraulic engineers that I know always preach “filtration, filtration, filtration” They joke about cheap filters… “Cheap filters only filter out the particle that that someone could stub their toe on”.


Brian.

Response From carjunky

I agree... The filter is an important part of any system.... I just bought a wix filter from amsoil and it cost a pretty penny, but I've been getting about an extra 2-3 gallons worth of mileage every week so that its price is well offset.

As with the 1 micron filter is a bit over kill but it sounds cool to someone that wants the best possible filter in their car or system.

Response From CTC01 Top Rated Answer

I did a little test on my freshly rebuilt 2.2L Mazda PU engine. No expence was spared on the rebuild (checkbook is still recovering ). New oil pump, hot tanked the block, the works. I was running a Fram oil filter on it but didnt like the way the oil pressure was responding during in town driving at normal operating temp (I am running a mechanical oil pressure gauge). When taking off from a stop the pressure would slowly build up to 45-50psi (10w30 Castrol) before I shifted. I put a NAPA Gold on it this morning to see if there was any difference. Picked up about 10psi on the cold engine (was 60psi now 70). In town the pressure responds much quicker but is still about the same PSI, maybe slightly higher. Normal operating temp at 65mph in OD is still 45-50psi.
I am guessing the difference is better bypass system in the NAPA filter.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This thread started a long time ago now. I just did filters in my cars and again with NAPA gold and they are more expensive. As I said back when they were made by Wix and I have to check to see if they still are. With all the companies competing I hope they don't sacrifice quality for those who are willing to pay the extra for it.

It's been my career's experience that quality in general is less costly in the long run. I find the better filters last longer and are more efficient. Can't say I notice fuel filters as far as driving but I sure don't want one to mess up fuel injection because of a few bucks up front,

T

2007 Mazda 3i Engine louder and faint ticking this morning

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From EvanBerrett on 2007 Mazda 3i Engine louder and faint ticking this morning

Year of vehicle: 2007
Make of vehicle: Mazda
Model of vehicle: 3i Touring
Mileage/Kilometers: 80,000+ Miles

Hello! Thanks for taking the time to read this! My Mazda 3i has been acting up a bit lately, where the engine has been getting louder (particularly in 4th gear, though it's a pretty quite car so I might not be able to tell in lower gears). This morning, there also was a faint ticking, 1/second or so that went away once the car warmed up.

Recent work that has been done to it: Brakes replaced, Oil changed, fluids topped off.

Any idea what's going on? Thanks!

Response From kev2

lets be overly cautious -
check the oil level-
Is the CEL (ck eng light) on- maybe try the FREE scan at auto parts stores,
Hopefully nothing more than an exhaust issue- try to isolate the source of the noise.

Response From EvanBerrett

Oil was just changed. Dealer report says they used 5w-20. And the CEL is not on, I happen to have my own OBD II scanner and no error codes are coming up.

Response From Hammer Time

Oil was just changed. Dealer report says they used 5w-20

Why don't you check it anyway.............

Response From EvanBerrett

I just checked the oil levels last night, and I'm pretty sure they overfilled the oil. They only put in 5 quarts (according to the paperwork given to me afterwards), but the dipstick is showing the oil level past the measuring portion...so my guess is the overfilled engine oil is giving me problems. I'm going to take the car to a shop today to make sure no damage has happened to the engine and then I'll see if this Mazda dealership will make it up to me somehow if any damage is indeed found as a result of overfilled engine oil. Thanks guys.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

My info could be wrong so go by owner's manual..........
Copy>>5W-20 Motor Oil



Application:
Use in all temperature ranges


4.5 Quarts with Filter change.
*******************************


If they really put in 5 quarts and spec was 4.5 - this is my opinion that, that isn't wildly overfilled and still shouldn't be done. At some point oil would foam from hitting moving parts it normally wouldn't or spray around, possibly smoke or up to kill an engine but should take more than 1/2 quart.


Hey - car makers don't know but do factor in that vehicles will be parked at angles any which way and still behave roughly one quart low and likely 1 quart overfilled in most situations.


Certainly never purposely overfill! Never saw instructions say that anything but oil level are to be checked with vehicle level and time for it all to return to oil pan which would vary.


About only way you could know how much is in it now is to drain it and even heat up oil filter and measure it. Deduct some for oil that would be absorbed into filter and not be recovered.


Again IMO if this was extreme it should have been noticed right away and still damage possible..........


T

Engine cranks but will not start

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From mil2473 on Engine cranks but will not start

I have a 1998 Mazda 626 with a 4 cylinder motor. It has new spark plugs, new oil, new oil filter, new air filter, and new fuel filter. The car cranks but will not start. Any suggestions ?

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

This is courtesy of Hammer Time.



All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.



Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.


2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.


3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

Miata Coolant in Oil

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From 99Sporty on Miata Coolant in Oil

What's up all, I have a couple questions I could use your expertise on. I have a 1999 Mazda Miata sport with the 1.8, and the engine has around 100,000 miles on it, no hard driving. Recently I noticed that the coolant level was low, added some, and it became low again. I drained the oil and sure enough it was coffee colored from coolant contamination. I also flushed the radiator and noticed some oil there. The engine starts fine and runs alright, slightly rough. My mechanic did a compression and leakdown test and it checked out, no problems there. As it stands, I drained the coolant and filled the engine with fresh oil and have not ran it any more. Here are my questions:

1) Given that compression and leakdown tests were fine, is it still possible that this is a blown headgasket or could the coolant be entering the oil passageways somewhere else?

2) Given that the engine was ran with coolant in the oil, is it worth replacing the headgasket or is the whole engine shot?

Thanks for your help.

Response From Discretesignals

Coolant and engine bearings don't mix. Once coolant mixes with oil, it will damage the bearings as the engine is running. Kind of a gamble when dealing with one of those. That is unless you figure out the problem, make the repair, inspect the engine bearings and surfaces for damage, and flush out the block and oil ports.

Response From 99Sporty

Thanks for the advice guys. I know the coolant could have caused some permanent damage but as this is not my primary transportation I'd like to do a budget fix if possible rather than having to swap in a new engine. Also thanks to Hammer Time, I didn't think it had an oil cooler but I double checked and it does, I'll look into that next before I tear the whole thing apart.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just RE oil cooler: Doubt it and really only worried if one was inside a radiator end tank. Auto transmissions it's common, not so much for engine oil,


T

Response From 99Sporty Top Rated Answer

Just out of curiosity why don't you think it could be the oil cooler? The oil cooler on a Miata mounts underneath the screw-on oil filter right on the block, it seems like if this broke it could dump coolant strait into the oil system and cause the problems I'm looking at

Response From Discretesignals

One way you could probably test the cooler is to unbolt it from the filter mount. Leave the hoses attached and then pressurize the coolant system with your pressure tester. You'll be able to tell if the cooler is leaking.


Response From 99Sporty

Thanks that's what I'll probably do, I'll have to see if I can get in there with a long socket and get that nut out. Its in a tricky spot underneath the intake manifold, nice picture

Response From Tom Greenleaf

ANYWHERE the two pass is possible especially under pressure with either. Test could include pressure up cooling system and look. Once you open up anything that prevents you from pressuring up cooling system that is lost for a test. Hate to see you dig all into this and NOT know where it came from,


T

Response From 99Sporty

Oil cooler was really hard to get to so I disconnected the lines, found some black oily sludge in them. Filled the radiator with distilled water and ran a hose from the throttle body to the block to bypass the oil cooler. Ran the engine for a bit and was still seeing oil coming into the overflow tank so I don't think the cooler is the problem. Did another compression test today and was getting between 170 and 180 psi for all 4 cylinders, looks like a healthy engine unfortunately. I think it is probably a problem with the head gasket just not at the cylinders but I sure wish I could be more confident before I tear the thing apart. Question for you Tom, what could I find by pressurizing the cooling system? I know that oil is getting in somewhere and coolant is leaving somewhere so it shouldn't hold too much pressure, would I just be looking for coolant leaking somewhere?

Response From Discretesignals

You may be right that there something internal going on such as a head gasket leak between a coolant port and oil drain back hole or maybe a cracked head which you wouldn't pick up on a compression test.

You should still have the oil cooler tested. If you can remove the oil cooler and have it pressure tested that would be a good idea. In fact, if your going to go as far as tear the engine down, it might be a good idea to replace the cooler for preventive reasons.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

1/2 awake here. Sporty99: By pressuring up cooling system you just might find evidence - engine all cool/cold. The smallest split in something might leak cold or only warm.


Don't exceed ~15PS pressure testing cooling system and if you run engine watch the pressure not to allow it to spike up higher.


Just would like this seen first somehow. Soon as you take things apart it's just evidence of a flaw somewhere. Could be a head gasket even with a good test? If it gets to that nicer IMO to even see the flaw in a gasket, head or block so you can know you are fixing something,


T

Response From 99Sporty

Thanks for all the help guys, you have been more supportive than even the miata forum people. I just wanted to make an update, I tore into it and removed the head. Had it pressure tested by a local head specialist and he found a crack in it that was apparently flowing pretty good, so I found the problem. Kindof a bummer because it seems like a factory defect that didn't show up till now. I'll have to track down a used or remanufactured head and get it all back together, do you guys have any recommendations where to look? I found a place called Cylinder Heads International or Headsonly that will ship me a remanufactured head for 350 if I send them mine as a core, seems cheap but maybe questionably cheap

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You've been at this for a while already. What bugs me is this place wants your unfixable head in exchange suggesting the one you get also had the problem so if that can be fixed, why not locally with yours?


T

Response From 99Sporty

Yeah them taking a bad head as a core does bother me also. The head specialist here in town said I should just look for a used or remanufactured head because he didn't think the crack was fixable/ worth fixing. Its in the top of the head, between the internal coolant passage and the very top where the cams sit so basically it was spraying water up into the cam area and going back into the block. I suppose you could try to weld with a tig and grind it but seems more expensive/trouble than its worth

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I agree with your local shop - good fixable used head or already redone one. Speak for myself, I/we learn and see machine work in training but it becomes it's own thing. What you can and can't fix (with any practicality) is up to those shops or obvious.


Called the "core" charge on assorted things. If broken, rotted too much, and other faults you loose that $$. If common or rare enough the charges for the old one can be quite expensive. When or if popular enough even this old or older someone will make new ones all over again or early in production if popular enough (clones),


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Dang! Not good, that's for sure. Coolant in oil and oil in coolant. It could pass anywhere the two are present, head gaskets, cracks and such. Does somehow this car use the radiator to cool engine oil as inside the radiator either OE or someone's idea to do that?


I'd pressure test cooling system first I think now with plugs out and hope it's just a head/head gasket problem limited to just that and no unseen damage to engine. Bearings and more than plain passing compression test could have happened.


Cooling system with oil - the rubber products, hoses and even water pump will probably go soft such that all must go WHEN solved.


More testing IMO to nail it down exactly where and what the fix will be. It's possible for a head gasket to pass a leak down test that way and not show but could pass coolant and oil back and forth at other times and pressures?


More testing needed now while it's intact and being this car probably would go for it up to an engine if it got to that,


T

Response From Hammer Time

There are lots of paths for coolantto enter the oil without showing up in a compression test. You could have a cracked block, cracked head, head gasket between ol port and coolant port, etc. Make sure it doesn't have any oil coolers that could be faulty first.