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Premium Guard
2001 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 2.5L Premium Guard

P311-1543FB2    PO4459  New

Qty:
$3.11
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2001 - Kia Optima V 2500 -
Hastings
2015 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.0L Hastings

P311-54DA683    LF565  New

Qty:
$7.41
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 180
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID
2015 - Kia Optima Turbocharged L 1998 122
Beck Arnley
2010 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter Beck Arnley

P311-0CD3912    041-8151  New

Qty:
$9.73
Beck Arnley Engine Oil Filter
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Kia Optima
Beck Arnley
2006 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.4L Beck Arnley

P311-0CD3912    041-8151  New

Qty:
$9.73
Beck Arnley Engine Oil Filter
  • To 10/19/07
Brand: Beck Arnley
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2006 - Kia Optima L 2351 -
Fram
2009 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 2.7L Fram

P311-45DCA50    TG7317  New

Qty:
$9.37
Fram Engine Oil Filter
  • Spin-on Oil Filter
  • TOUGH GUARD
Brand: Fram
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2009 - Kia Optima V 2656 -
Fram
2011 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.0L Fram

P311-3853723    PH9688  New

Qty:
$11.18
Fram Engine Oil Filter
  • Spin-on Oil Filter
  • EXTRA GUARD
Brand: Fram
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2011 - Kia Optima L 1998 122
Denso
2002 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 2.7L Denso

P311-16485EC    150-2043  New

Qty:
$6.67
Denso Engine Oil Filter
  • Engine Oil Filter
  • FTF Engine Oil Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
    • Bypass Relief Valve: Yes
    • Filter Media Material: Paper
    • Filter Type: Can
    • Gasket Inside Diameter: 56.0
    • Gasket Outside Diameter: 63.0
    • Height: 75.0
    • Inside Thread Diameter: 0.79
  • Engine Oil Filter
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine VIN
2002 - Kia Optima V 2656 - 8
Denso
2013 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.4L Denso

P311-16485EC    150-2043  New

Qty:
$6.67
Denso Engine Oil Filter
  • Engine Oil Filter
  • AF: USA Built Vehicle
  • FTF Engine Oil Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
    • Bypass Relief Valve: Yes
    • Filter Media Material: Paper
    • Filter Type: Can
    • Gasket Inside Diameter: 56.0
    • Gasket Outside Diameter: 63.0
    • Height: 75.0
    • Inside Thread Diameter: 0.79
  • Engine Oil Filter
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine VIN
2013 - Kia Optima L 2359 - 7
Bosch
2010 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 2.7L Bosch

P311-36E479E    3323  New

Qty:
$8.59
Bosch Engine Oil Filter
  • Bosch Oil Filter
  • Oil
  • Product Attributes:
    • Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
    • Burst Pressure: 200
    • Filter Media Material: Cellulose Paper
    • Filter Type: Spin-on
    • Gasket Material: Nitrile
    • Height: 3.503937
    • Micron Rating: 20
    • Non Slip Grip: No
  • Bosch Premium Oil Filters utilize an exclusive blend of natural and synthetic materials to provide superior oil filtration and increased engine wear protection.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine VIN Fuel Delivery Type
2010 - Kia Optima V 2656 - 4 FI
Bosch
2010 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 2.7L Bosch

P311-36E479E    3323  New

Qty:
$8.59
Bosch Engine Oil Filter
  • Bosch Oil Filter
  • Premium Oil Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
    • Burst Pressure: 200
    • Filter Media Material: Cellulose Paper
    • Filter Type: Spin-on
    • Gasket Material: Nitrile
    • Height: 3.503937
    • Micron Rating: 20
    • Non Slip Grip: No
  • Bosch Premium Oil Filters utilize an exclusive blend of natural and synthetic materials to provide superior oil filtration and increased engine wear protection.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2010 - Kia Optima V 2656 -
Bosch
2009 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 2.7L Bosch

P311-5282286    72226WS  New

Qty:
$6.13
Bosch Engine Oil Filter
  • Bosch Oil Filter
  • Workshop Oil Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Anti-Drain Back Valve: Yes
    • Burst Pressure: 200
    • Filter Media Material: Cellulose Paper
    • Filter Type: Spin-on
    • Gasket Material: Nitrile
    • Height: 3.503937
    • Micron Rating: 30
    • Non Slip Grip: No
  • Bosch Premium Oil Filters utilize an exclusive blend of natural and synthetic materials to provide superior oil filtration and increased engine wear protection. Plus, the filter media is close to 30% thicker, and can screen out more harmful contaminants than a conventional filter.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2009 - Kia Optima V 2656 -
Auto 7
2013 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.0L Auto 7

P311-4ED1B55    012-0046  New

Qty:
$6.50
Auto 7 Engine Oil Filter
Brand: Auto 7
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Submodel
2013 - Kia Optima Turbocharged L 1998 122 SXL
Auto 7
2012 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.4L Auto 7

P311-4ED1B55    012-0046  New

Qty:
$6.50
Auto 7 Engine Oil Filter
  • HYBRID
Brand: Auto 7
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Fuel Type Submodel
2012 - Kia Optima L 2359 - ELECTRIC/GAS Hybrid
Fram
2011 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.0L Fram

P311-0C1C5BB    XG9688  New

Qty:
$11.22
Fram Engine Oil Filter
  • Spin-on Oil Filter
  • ULTRA
Brand: Fram
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2011 - Kia Optima L 1998 122
Fram
2009 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 2.7L Fram

P311-174C98B    PH7317  New

Qty:
$8.82
Fram Engine Oil Filter
  • Spin-on Oil Filter
  • EXTRA GUARD
Brand: Fram
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2009 - Kia Optima V 2656 -
Mahle
2006 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 2.7L Mahle

P311-2A7A463    OC 707  New

Qty:
$7.41
Mahle Engine Oil Filter
  • Engine Oil Filter
  • Filter Type Spin-on Oil Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Filter Height (mm): 86.00
    • Filter Outside Diameter (mm): 69.00
    • Filter Thread Size: M20 X 1.5mm
    • Filter Type: Spin-on Oil Filter
  • MAHLE Original filters are constructed using a superior embossed and pleated filter media for high dirt holding capacity and low pressure drop. Premium sealing technology assures leak free assembly and operation over the lifetime of the filter. MAHLE Original filters feature Original Equipment design, materials and performance.
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine VIN
2006 - Kia Optima V 2656 - 4
Mahle
2005 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 6 Cyl 2.7L Mahle

P311-30F1A5A    OC 205  New

Qty:
$10.56
Mahle Engine Oil Filter
  • Engine Oil Filter
  • Filter Type Spin-on Oil Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Filter Height (mm): 73.00
    • Filter Outside Diameter (mm): 76.00
    • Filter Thread Size: M20 X 1.5
    • Filter Type: Spin-on Oil Filter
  • MAHLE Original filters are constructed using a superior embossed and pleated filter media for high dirt holding capacity and low pressure drop. Premium sealing technology assures leak free assembly and operation over the lifetime of the filter. MAHLE Original filters feature Original Equipment design, materials and performance.
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Engine VIN
2005 - Kia Optima V 2656 - 8
Premium Guard
2001 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.4L Premium Guard

P311-5BA9871    PO4459EX  New

Qty:
$8.57
  • Pronto Extended Life Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2001 - Kia Optima L 2351 -
Premium Guard
2011 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.4L Premium Guard

P311-345BCC1    26300-35503  New

Qty:
$5.65
  • Pronto Extended Life Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2011 - Kia Optima L 2359 -
Wix
2003 Kia Optima Engine Oil Filter 4 Cyl 2.4L Wix

P311-25A66E9    51334  New

Qty:
$10.31
Wix Engine Oil Filter
  • Manufacturer OE Recommended Oil Change Intervals
  • Product Attributes:
    • AntiDrainBackValve: Yes
    • BetaRatio: 2/20=6/20
    • BurstPressure: 280
    • ByPassValveSetting: 8-11
    • Capacity(grams): 9.00
    • Class: A
    • Duty Type: Ld
    • FlowRate: 9-11 Gpm
    • Height: 3.194
    • Inner Diameter Top: Closed
    • MediaType: Enhanced Cellulose
    • Micron: 21.00
    • Outer Diameter Top: 3.252
    • Style: Spin-on Lube Filter
    • ThreadSize: 20x1.5 Mm
Brand: Wix
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Region
2003 - Kia Optima L 2351 - United States

Latest Kia Optima Repair and Oil Filter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Hurricane Sandy Flooded Mom's 04 Kia Optima. Please help

Showing 11 out of 16 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From 2pac on Hurricane Sandy Flooded Mom's 04 Kia Optima. Please help

Hey,
my family "lost" 2 cars due to hurricane Sandy. Both were parked in our driveway and had about 2-3 feet of water. From what i saw it reached the seats but not glovebox as everything inside was dry. I evacuated so I didn't see where exactly the water hit but I've been working on 1 of the cars which is my moms 2004 Kia Optima LX 6cylinder. My dad tried to start it up right away but thank g-d it didn't as I have read time and time again don't start a flooded car until you inspect critical parts first.
(I should preface by saying i'm a novice with fixing cars just trying to help my folks) There appeared to be no water in the engine or transmission as I checked the dipsticks and no signs of water. the air filter had a little bit of fuel in the tray, so I flushed the engine oil and replaced with 5 quarts. I checked 3 spark plugs (i can't get to other 3, seems difficult) which are a bit old but there was no signs of water in there but there was a smell of gasoline coming from the engine. I'm not sure what caused this as the car was never started after the flood came in . I also jacked the car up to drain water from the muffler. After this and replacing oil and oil filter I tried starting the car. It cranks and feels like it's about to start but doesn't. After I attempt to start, water still drips slightly from muffler and the oil filter would leak oil (I did some reading and o-ring is in place). I feel like I'm really close to getting it to work but now after leaving the car overnight I took out the new oil filter and it has a smell of gasoline and the dipstick does too. Can anyone recommend what I could potentially do? Detailed instructions or links to a diagram would be of more help as I am a novice. We are on a tight budget as is after losing our whole basement due to the storm and I'm aware the car may have long term problems, I just want to get it up and running now to give my mom a few months to get back up on her feet. Surprisingly most of the eletrical components still work, power windows, odometer, it tells me when my door is open, fuel level, all lights and blinkers work, and lock/unlock doors work.

any help would be appreciated!
Thanks

Response From Discretesignals

You stated the water got up to the seats in the KIA? Flood cars can have numerous electrical problems since connectors, wiring, and modules can have water intrusion. More than likely the PCM got water intrusion since it sits behind the center console. The problem is the salt water will corrode all the electrical connections causing all sorts of weird problems.

Have you contacted you insurance company? More than likely they will total the vehicle.

Response From 2pac

I appreciate the responses guys. unfortunately, we don't have full coverage otherwise i wouldn't have attempted to fix. I understand that the car will be a headache and most likely die quickly but quite frankly we've got so many things we're dealing including a basement that got 5 feet of water in it that we don't have the time or resources right now to buy a used car which i hear are selling for inflated prices due to the new demand. Ideally, i'm looking to spend $100 or so and get a month or two out of the car if i can just to get though these rough times, which is why i'm turning to you guys for advice. my neighbor was able to get his car workin minus a few shorts, but that would be fine by me.

My main problems are this:
1) why would gasoline fuel get in to the air filter and engine if the car was fine before the storm and was never started since? no water got in to either engine or air filter. i changed oil and it seems to have gone in again(please refer to my first post for details)

2) would water in muffler cause the car to not start? if so how do i drain it completely? i tried jacking up the car and only got some out.

3) can the main computer be bad if all electrical components of car seem to work? odometer shows digital miles, fuel level, door open when its open and power windows and locks work.

Response From Sidom

Thats a bad deal, I feel for you. It's a tough spot....

This is a tough one to do online because we really don't know what the deal is with the car and going off previous history with "flood" cars, this really doesn't look good..

I know you're gonna keep trying so what you need to do is get your hands on a cheap code reader and see if you have any kind of communication with the PCM. No communication and you are pretty much done.

Go ask the neighbor to give you a hand and take a quick look at it....

Response From re-tired

First let me say thank you for evacuatng. I spent about a decade in US Coast Guard aviation. Retrieving the remains of those who rode it out or were just at the wrong place at wrong time was not a pleasent memory. NOW about your car. In the height of the storm and sometime after, a lot of stuff became submerged. underground storage tanks and gas and oil from lawnmowers ,construction equip and such. Grease and battery acid. And sadly remains of desceased humans and animals.I saw it all while hovering over the mess . Imagine taking a swimming pool .Put everything from under your sinks and garage , some rotten food ,couple gallons of gas and oil and lastly a bucket of septic waste. NOW add car ,just up to seats, mix well . Everything rubbber is going to rot in months.l Your brakes have soaked up this mess and are useless.THe smell seems to be everywhere because it IS everywhere. You may get it to run.But in a few months who will want to ride with you? JUST ANOTHER POINT OF VIEW

Response From 2pac

I really appreciate all your input. Like I said, I'm not trying to fool you guys in to thinking I'm going to get the car started and it will live it's normal life. We're just so busy cleaning up from this mess and my mom is depressed she can't leave at her own will because she has no car. I just want to get it going for a month or two tops just so we can get the more important things sorted out first and then search for a car.


I'm still confused as to what can cause some gasoline to get in to the air filter and engine and again after i changed oil. I've read about this happening with people driving through floods and pistons getting bent etc, but i never started my car during and since the flood.

Sidom, I do happen to have one of those bluetooth OBDII scanners that i can use with my phone with an app but this is my first time using but when i tried pairing it and connecting it wouldn't connect. the program gave me an error saying make sure engine is on, maybe the ignition. not quite sure. hard for me to work on the car with a dead battery and keep swapping out my battery, but i'm stubborn and for only personal gratification, i'd to like to get it started at the very least.

I do know there are used computers for under $100 on ebay. I happened to run across this link deleted ................. please read rules
which sounds similar to my problem. anyone know if a bad computer can cause the gas to get in to the engine and air filter?

Response From re-tired




I'm still confused as to what can cause some gasoline to get in to the air filter and engine and again after i changed oil. I've read about this happening with people driving through floods and pistons getting bent etc, but i never started my car during and since the flood.


As I stated before . The storm surge has gas and other products mixed in it. This storm water did not gently rise up in your car.It was driven by 75+ mph winds . It was blown thru your grille. Into ducts and the intake system , down open valves . It has soaked into any foam seals, and is in every nook ands cranny. You will never get rid of the gas smell.

Response From Sidom

Yea it really doesn't look good......It sounds like you have no communication, this is why you are getting errors......You should pull codes on a known good car with your app to make sure you know how to use it & then try again, but it sounds like the PCM is gone...

Do what DS suggested & open it up......The problem here is,,,, with it being shorted out due to being wet, when the car was cranked over would be enough to fry the PCM. Go grab a couple cans of electrical cleaner......clean it out & dry in real good, go thru the engine compartment, open up all the electrical connecters you can find & clean those out as well.....

You do realize this is an exercise in futility but I get it......I'd do the same thing but just don't let this take up your time for other important stuff.....

I've seen people have success in stuff before when they didn't realize it was an impossible chore.....Once you know it's impossible.....you're done....

Good luck

Response From Hammer Time

You can't simply buy a used computer and plug it in. They are personally programmed including the VIN # of the car. Apparently you just aren't listening or don't believe what you are being told. The car is toast. Just burn your money. You will accomplish just as much.

Response From 2pac

I understand very well what's been told to me and i know full well the car won't give me any usable life. I tend to be stubborn and was hoping i could get mine started like my neighbor did to his. I was not aware that the computer is personally programmed for that unique vehicle with VIN # . Unfortunately i can't post links, apparently, but i was just passing information that i found doing a google search on someone who had similar problems as mine and bought a used computer and it solved his problem .You're the expert, so then if it can't be done...

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

The life expectancy of your starter is probably down to days now.

Response From Discretesignals

I would pull the PCM out and open it up. Check for water intrusion. Also inspect the PCM connectors. See how bad it is. Remove the carpet in the vehicle and check all the electrical connectors. Disconnect the battery while you doing that. See how well a KIA computer is sealed.

Response From Discretesignals

If the powertrain controller had been submerged in salt water there is no telling what kind of problems it will cause. It could be running the pump and holding an injector(s) open causing a flooding condition. The water could have gotten into a connector and is shorting out circuits. The salinity of salt water makes it a very good conductor.

Water in the muffler probably wouldn't cause a no start because water will get pushed out of the exhaust system when the engine is running.

The powertrain controller normally doesn't have anything to do with the functions of the electrical system such as lighting and other interior accessories. The powertrain controller's main function is to control the operation of the engine and transmission electrical components.

Another thing you have to be aware of is the SIR system. If the SIR controller or other components have been submerged in salty water, there is a chance the system could inadvertently deploy the air bags.

Response From Hammer Time

Water in the muffler isn't preventing the car from starting and $100 is not going to get this car running. You could spend more like $1,000 to even get it to fire and that may be only temporary before it eats another $1,000 and then another $1,000.

Computers don't work after being submerged in water and all the wiring fails shortly after.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry that happened. Even if you got this going it will be a never ending problem. Dirty salt water isn't done wrecking things even if dry now,

T

Response From Hammer Time

Even if you could get it running, you really don't want that car any more. The electronic are just going to disintegrate and the problems will never stop. That's why insurance companies always total them. I doubt it will ever run again anyway. Computers don't survive being submerged in any water, especially salt water.