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Premium Guard
Qty:
$2.79
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1975 - International 150 V - 392
Hastings
Qty:
$15.53
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/T444E Eng. Lube OE Number : 1814562C1
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 84
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1991 - International 400 V 7277 444
Hastings
Qty:
$15.53
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/T444E Eng. Lube OE Number : 1814562-C1
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 84
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1991 - International 4600 V 7277 444
Hastings
Qty:
$15.53
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/T444E (7.3L) Eng. Lube OE Number : 1814562-C1
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 84
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1994 - International 3800 V - 444
Hastings
Qty:
$6.30
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 120
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1980 - International Scout II L - 196
Hastings
Qty:
$6.30
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • Spin-on
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 120
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1970 - International Scout V - 304
Hastings
Qty:
$6.30
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/MV404 Eng. F-F Lube See Product Guide for Variations of This Number. Fleetguard : LF33136
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 120
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1980 - International S1723 V - 404
Hastings
Qty:
$6.30
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/MV446 Eng. F-F Lube See Product Guide for Variations of This Number. Fleetguard : LF33136
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 120
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1980 - International S1823 V - 446
Hastings
Qty:
$19.43
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/MaxxForce 7 Eng. Lube Ele. OE Number : 1840752-C91
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 120
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2011 - International 4300 V 6400 389
Hastings
Qty:
$19.43
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/VT365 Eng. Lube w/o Screw on Cap OE Number : 1844588C91
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 120
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2003 - International 4300 V 5982 365
Hastings
Qty:
$19.43
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/VT365 Eng. Lube OE Number : 1844588-C91
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 120
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2002 - International 3200 V - 365
Hastings
Qty:
$19.43
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/VT365 Eng. Lube OE Number : 1840752-C91
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 120
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2002 - International 4200 V 5982 365
Hastings
Qty:
$19.43
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/VT365 Eng. Lube OE Number : 1840752C91
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 120
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2003 - International 4400 V 5982 365
Hastings
Qty:
$19.43
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/MaxxForce 7 Eng. Lube OE Number : 1840752-C91
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 120
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2014 - International 4300LP V 6400 389
Hastings
Qty:
$19.43
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/VT365 Eng. Lube OE Number : 1844588C91
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 120
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2005 - International 1652SC V 5982 365
Hastings
Qty:
$12.72
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/Cummins ISB Eng. Lube OE Number : 3937736
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 132
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2014 - International 4300 L 6691 408
Hastings
Qty:
$26.75
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/DT466 Eng. F-F Lube OE Number : 1819452-C1
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 54
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2005 - International 4300 L 7638 466
Hastings
Qty:
$26.75
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/DT408 Eng. Lube Extended Life Version Available. OE Number : 1819452-C1
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 54
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1993 - International 4700 L - 408
Hastings
Qty:
$26.75
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/DT466, DT466C, DT466E, DTA466, DTA466C Engs. F-F Lube OE Number : 1819452-C1
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 54
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1992 - International 4700 L - 466
Hastings
Qty:
$26.75
Hastings Engine Oil Filter
  • w/DT530 Eng. Lube OE Number : 1819452-C1
  • Product Attributes:
    • Pallet Layer Quantity: 54
Brand: Hastings
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1996 - International 4700 L - 530

Latest International Repair and Oil Filter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Noise on start up

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From tractorboy on Noise on start up

2003 Impala 3.4L use 5w-30 oil, pf47 oil filter with anti drain back. When I start the car in the morning , what i think are the hydraulic lifters, clatter for about 6 seconds then go away to a nice sounding engine. The sound is more pronounced the cooler or colder it gets. I looked at the engine block without the oil filter, nothing unusuall. There is a what appears to be a bypass at the top where the filter goes. Push in on it, spring loaded, could this be bad , letting oil to tricle back ? it isn't in backwards is it ? the bypass is at the 1 oclock position above the center stud the oil filter spins on to. any suggestions

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

It’s likely a couple of lifters that are leaking down over night.
Do you have any history on this engine, things like an intake gasket letting go and dousing the crankcase with coolant?
Something like that could cause some minor damage to a lifters internal valveing allowing it to collapse over night.
The oil filter bypass valve I don’t think would cause this. It’s there to prevent oil starvation if the filter becomes plugged.
It’s not a check valve, like what you would find in an electric fuel pump to hold a column of fuel between the pump and fuel rail.
Dan.

Response From tractorboy

Nope nothing else just the noisey lifters, which sounds like all of them, not just one or two. I thought it might be the anti-flow back gasket in the oil filter, so I put on a new filter. I was wondering if it could be one bearing, like a main, that could be really out of specs. Also I was wondering if it could be the oil, I use 5w-30. Is it possible that someone is dumping something in the oil like stp or motor honey that would make the oil thicker ?, prank stuff does happen here.
Can I ask you another question....do you have an automotive dvom ? what is it ? is it what you wanted ? is there one you would rather have instead ? also same question s as above ,but for a scan tool. actually that was more than one question

Response From DanD

I’m not sure about the rod or main bearings making the noise, (not without hearing it in person), but they make a definite knock more then a tick.
An automotive DVOM is a Digital Volt/Ohmmeter, I use a Fluke 88 and it’s actually a multi-meter being that it has a 10-amp ammeter and it can also read duty cycle.

As far as a scan tool I have a Vetronix Mastertech and it works well for most things and it has a built in lab scope but the more sophisticated the vehicle get with the electronics, I’m starting to think about buying manufacturer specific scanners, at least for the three north American builders.

Response From tractorboy

The fluke is one of the meters I am looking at...the Mastertech is nice. I am probably going to do a notebook or palm pilot based scanner. I was thinking of recording the noise, make a 6 second wav file and attach it to this post so everybody can hear it. If I can not attach I will upload to rapidshare or simular and put the link in the post to download....what do you think of the OTC automotive dvom ?

Response From DanD

I have never used the OTC meter but they make good units. Almost any style of automotive meter will work ok as long as it has at least a 10megaohm-impedance rated voltmeter you’ll be ok.
Dan.

Response From tractorboy

I checked my oil pressure. I removed the oil pressure switch and screwed in the pressure guage. At the same time I also checked the oil switch. I plugged the switch back in and layed it on part of the engine so it would be electrically grounded. The car had been sitting all night, I started the engine and the pressure went imediately up to 40 psi. I am wondering if this is the correct way to test. In the oem shop manual they have a pressure guage they attach in place of the oil filter ? Also the manual says 60 psi @ 1800 rpm. Latter in the day I tested again after the engine was warmed up and at idle it was around 38 psi and I do not have a tach, so I just increased the idle and it went up to 45-48 psi. Also the low oil pressure icon came on on the info track display, which was a concern that the oil pressure switch did not work. There was also something that I read that I can not get past. In the block where the oil filter screws on is a releif valve, I have seen it it is about at the 1 oclock possition. In the manual it says that if the oil filter is plugged or...... the valve will open at 10 -15 psi. Well if there is any thing over 15 psi...say like 60 psi, wouldn't the bypass valve be open all the time ? or does the oil pressure on the other side keep it closed, unless the filter is clogged and the only flow is through the releif ?

1972 Cadillac eldorado

Showing 2 out of 33 Posts | Show 31 Hidden Posts
Question From dougc426 on 1972 Cadillac eldorado

I bought this car NOT running,Carb was wroung one so i got the correct one for it.Hooked up all vacuum lines,new plugs,wires,cap,rotor,uni-points,oil&filter.Carb was dyno-tested and run on a motor,The guy that rebuilds them has done carbs for me before all have been good.So get everything hooked up and i have power to coil but no spark out of the coil going to the cap,not many wires to hook up and i have a 1972 cadillac shop manual to help out.Now what do i look for to get this car running?...Help please

Response From Hammer Time

Check for power at the red lead coming into the distributor.

Response From dougc426

I did,Power to coil,then when i turn the car over,I have spark to negitive side but still no spark to distributor,I put new coil in too.also checked out distributor wire tested out good???

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

How did you determine that you have spark to negative side of the coil? Isn't this HEI with internal coil?

Response From dougc426

No its not a HEI,I dont think they came out till 1973??/...Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

So it has points?

Response From dougc426

yes it does

Response From Hammer Time

You should be getting a pulsing ground signal on the - side of the coil when cranking. If none found, change the points and condenser.

Response From dougc426

Ok,will do.the points are new but i know that dont mean squat..Thanks

Response From dougc426

new points same results,still no spark from coil????

Response From Hammer Time

Do you have pulse on the negative side when cranking?

Response From dougc426

looked to be steady no pulse...!!!!

Response From Hammer Time

Then you still have a problem in the points or distributor. That is what supplies the pulsing ground to fire the coil. Make sure the wire isn't shorted inside anywhere.

Response From re-tired

YOU said you put in a set of uni points . make sure you mounted the wire to them correctly .Ive seen them grounded by mistake . also what did you gap points to . Have you tried getting a dwell meter to read ?

Response From dougc426

also how can you ground them(the points) by mistake mistake??????

Response From re-tired

The post has insulating washers on it .Is is possible but rare to get the wire behind the washers vs between them which will ground it. What about the point setting. Glad to help you TROLL for an answer.

Response From Hammer Time

The wire is supposed to be making contact with the swinging arm and the related spring only. If it makes contact with the frame that is screwed down, it is shorted out. Also make sure your engine is grounded to the battery and frame.

Response From Double J

Saw a lot of guys install the wire in the wrong spot....

One thought i had too is ...had many uniset points come out of the box and not start the car.
Not just Delco Remy but others as well..

Assuming they're installed correctly as the others have mentioned..take an allen wrench,open the distributor cap window and while someone cranks the engine,try backing off on the points to see if it hits/starts.Had to to this many times,if so,then set the dwell with a dwell meter..
A lot of guys that didnt have a meter would dial the points in until the engine misfired and then back em off like 180 degrees..not the correct way ...

Response From dougc426

Hey Guys,
Took distributor out and put new wire leed in.Car started right up,Purrs like a kitten.So want to thank you all for the help...Best...Doug

Response From Hammer Time

Glad to hear it. it must have been contacting the housing somewhere.

Response From dougc426

The end for the points in the cap was very loose,not making good contact,maybe this can help someone else out,trying to figure out how to poet picture of can on this web site

Response From Hammer Time

The best way is to upload it to a photo hosting site like Photobucket.com or Imageshack.com and post the image link here and then the picture shows up here.

Response From dougc426

I down loaded a pic but now how do i post it up???

Response From dougc426

ImageShack® &res=crop
2011-04-28 19:59:28

Make private
Delete
QuickPost
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Add tags Short Link Link:
Full size Include details Forums: By dougc426 at 2011-04-28 Sites: Direct:
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Response From dougc426

well im getting closer(LOL)

Response From dougc426


Hey Guys,
You know what the two dimmer switchs on the drivers floor are for?
1)for the head kights...
2)is for the wonderbar radio you push it and it moves the the bar search on the radio pretty cool eh?...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Old phart here - most of my 200 cars had floor switch for dimers

T

Response From Hammer Time

You can try just copying and pasting but if that doesn't work, then you have to host it on an image hosting site and post the image link.

Response From dougc426

Thanks.........................

Response From dougc426

SOMETIMES YOU CAN REALLY GET TEED OFF..bUT WHEN THEY ARE RUNNING RIGHT,YOU HAVE TO SMILLE!!!!!!

Response From Hammer Time

LOL, thanks for posting the solution

Response From dougc426

How could you get the wire wroung?.Theres only one wire to hook(get it) up..I'm ready to go fishing as i have a house on the water in hernando beach florida..15 minutes to open gulf..thanks for your help...best

Response From dougc426

No its not a hei,I dont think HEI came out till 1973..thanks

morning engine rapping noise

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From boogettyman on morning engine rapping noise

HELLO,
I TOOK MY CAR FOR AN OIL CHANGE AND WHEN THEY WERE FINISHED I PAID AND GOT IN MY VEHICLE AND LEFT , I WENT APPROX. 250 FEET DOWN THE ROAD AND MY OIL LIGHT CAME ON SO I TURNED AROUND IMMEDIATELY AND WENT RIGHT BACK AND TOLD THEM . THEY TOOK A LOOK OIL WAS ALL OVER THE UNDERNEATH OF THE CAR - WHICH IS A 2011 NISSAN MURANO - THEY CHECKED IT OUT AND SAID THAT THE OIL FILTER GASKET HAD A CRACK AND THAT'S WHY THE OIL LEAK - THEY CHANGED THE FILTER AND SAID THEY REPLACED ABOUT 2 1/2 QUARTS OF OIL . I THEN LEFT AND THINGS SEEMED TO BE OK - UNTIL NEXT MORNING WHEN I STARTED THE CAR AND HEARD A DRY RAPPING NOISE THAT LASTED ABOUT 4-5 SEC. - I TOOK IT TO THE NISSAN DEALER AND EXPLAINED EVERYTHING TO THEM - THEY DID A OIL CHANGE AGAIN AND PUT THEIR OIL & FILTER IN IT AND THOUGHT THAT IT MIGHT TAKE CARE OF IT .. NEXT DAY - SAME THING - SAME NOISE AND EVERY MORNING SINCE ... HAPPENS WHEN THE CAR SITS ALL NIGHT . CAN SOMEONE EXPLAIN WHAT KIND OF DAMAGE WOULD OCCUR WHEN YOU LOSE YOUR OIL LIKE THAT ... AND WHAT WOULD BE THE FIX TO THIS SITUATION !!!!! I FEEL THAT IT HAS DAMAGED SOMETHING INTERNAL WHERE AS THE OIL DOES NOT STAY RETAINED IN THE UPPER END OF THE ENGINE . SO IT MAKES THE NOISE WHEN I START IT UNTIL OIL GETS PUMPED TO THE UPPER END .?????? THANK- YOU FOR YOUR HELP....!

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

That oil change place owes you an engine and you need to stop messing with the car and notify them immediately that you want the engine replaced and by someone other than them. What happened is when the guy put the oil filter on, the old gasket was still there because it didn't come off with the filter and when you double gasket, they pour oil out and do severe damage. They also lied about how much oil they put back in because that car was empty when you brought it back to them. They have insurance for things like this but don't waste any more time.

Tranny problem or else

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From jellyfish on Tranny problem or else

I own a 2000 ford windstar 3.0 with 119,000 miles i was driving in highway when exited highway car tried to turn off shifted to neutral car didnt die out
but when i shifted back to D to take off car wouldnt move . Rpm will go up but no car movement manually shifted car to 2 and car took off with no problem
after reaching a speed of 20 mph manually shifted to D and transmission works normal but when i come to complete stop and try to take off car will not move
in the mornings when is cold the car will take off on D but with hesitation and as soon as i come to a complete stop i have to take off on 2. A few days later
reverse began to act that way too. Change trans oil & filter but no changes so i take off on 2 and Manually shift to D . If there is any hope please help.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

This doesn't sound to good if you are losing gears.

You've done the basic stuff that can be done. It really sounds like you have some internal problems going on..........

Water Pump Leaking - 99 Toyota Camry

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Ogimaa on Water Pump Leaking - 99 Toyota Camry

(This car previously overheated from having the wrong oil filter installed and it popped off and drained all the oil. We had it serviced in another garage and it was driving fine after that.)

99 Toyota Camry, 300k+ Miles

I started to notice the coolant reservoir kept going low, about once a week for the last few months. Being in a warm climate, I added distilled water to continually top it off. The car then overheated and I found air burst through the top radiator hose (near the hose clamp). I replaced the top hose with a 2000 hose on accident but they are exactly alike in size and shape so I used it. The car then ran like normal for about 4 days.

Now we overheated the car again and I discovered that water drains, at a steady pace, from an area around the water pump. I can see it bubbling from deep behind the area where the thermostat should be replaced. The water inside the overflow reservoir and radiator cap also bubbles when the car is running.

If I replace the water pump and timing belt, could that fix the problem or could there be an underlying problem that could cause the new water pump to fail?

I'd hate to do all the youtube research to do this and mess up a new water pump.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Just to let you know something, but when an oil filter pops off the lubrication system has no pressure. That means that nothing is getting lubricated inside the engine as it is running. It doesn't cause overheating, but causes major damage to rotating and sliding components.

Bubbling in the radiator isn't a good sign. That could be gasses from internal combustion are entering into the coolant system. You should connect up a leak down tester and pressurize each cylinder to see if bubbles appear in the radiator.

The engine was ran with no oil at one time and overheated several times. 300K miles on top of that. My opinion is maybe time to look for another vehicle or possibly a replacement engine if everything else on the vehicle is good. Doesn't make sense to invest all that time and money into the engine to fix leaks and do a possible head gasket replacement to find out the lower end is worn out, it burns oil like no tomorrow, or has cracked cylinder walls.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Agree with DS the car is probably a total value loss now.


Question is WHY didn't you go or tow this right back to the place/shop that caused the oil issue to begin with or had some time passed since that? IDK - oil filters don't just fall off later if a problem with installing one,


T