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Latest Hyundai Repair and Oil Filter Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Hyundai oil change

Showing 3 out of 6 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Hyundai oil change

I recently had an oil change and now the car leaks oil. What's wrong?

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

Unfortunately, most people will take a car to a garage of do it themselves for an oil change . If you do it yourself, it will cost you the price of your time as well as the cost for the oil and the filter. Then there is the problem of disposal of the dirty oil and filter. I hope that nobody is just dumping the oil down the sewage drain late at night, throwing it or the filter into a river or lake, placing it into the regular trash, or doing some other ecologically irresponsible act with the oil and filter. If you take it to a garage or some other quick change oil facility, you must make certain that they use the proper oil type (viscosity) and that the oil filter they are using meets the specifications of the manufacturer. There are many instances in which the oil or the filter is incorrect. This can lead to oil starvation and serious engine problems. Many people think that oil is oil, and that a filter is a filter, but that is not the case!Either way you do it, it is going to cost you some money. I don't know about you, but I value my own personal time at $20 an hour. So if I were to change the oil myself, it is going to cost me at least $35. Quick change oil facilities or Joe Schmuck's Garage cost that much as well. Here is a suggestion. Next oil change, take it to a Hyundai dealer. They will install the correct grade oil and Hyundai manufactured filter. That way you know there can be no mistake. I take mine to the Hyundai dealer and it costs me $31.86 to get it done. I have no scraped knuckles, no mess to deal with, and no worries about the oil and filter. Not only that, but if they really mess it up and it leaks oil, they are responsible. They also keep records of every maintenance action they perform on the vehicle. Later on when you go to sell it or trade it in, you have a complete record from a Hyundai certified dealer. When you can pull out all of the maintenance documentation for you car that shows all of oil changes were performed by a dealer at the correct intervals, the value of your car just increased significantly! I would much rather see a computer print out of maintence by a dealer, then to see some book hand-written in ink showing me that these are the dates and times that I changed the oil in my car. Anybody can sit down at the kitchen table the day before they sell their car and fill out one of those maintenance logs that comes with every car! Since it does not cost any more to take it to a dealer then it does to do it yourself or at some other bozo's garage, it only makes sense to take it to the dealer to get it done. No mess, no worries, and you have a complete maintenance history from a dealer.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

NOW!!!! DON'T WAIT!!!! CHECK OUT THE DRAIN PLUG AND OIL FILTER. STUFF HAPPENS AND THE DRAIN PLUG COULD BE STRIPPED OR GASKET BROKEN AND OIL FILTER COULD HAVE A PROBLEM. THIS IS YOUR ENGINE AT STAKE SO PAY ATTENTION,

Should be easy even if a whole new oil change is called for, T

Response From Guest

I took the car to a garage for the oil change. Should I go back or go someplace else?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Go back. I fearlessly think that folks do their best and they will know and stuff happens even with the best of intentions. If you really don't trust them take it elsewhere.

This could be unrelated to the oil change but either way you want to know and have this fixed. Takes some trust in the place you were at and your honesty about this. Bet you find satisfaction. Techs get rushed and stuff can happen. I left a job over being rushed by the boss as some things shouldn't be rushed but the whole world wants the fast food approach and the trade is trying but it's a tough nut!

Let us know how you make out and what was the problem, T

Response From Guest

ok I'll let you know

2007 hyundai tucson

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From kpiechoc on 2007 hyundai tucson

My 2007 vehicle squeals inside the car when I start it up in cold weather since purchase. The heater blower was replaced. They thought maybe it was the break line and tested that or a loose seal or the heater vents turned too far one direction. They had me replace my oil filter to see if that was it. After 1 year, Hyundia has been unable to determine the reason for the squeal noise so has decided that maybe it is the battery amps charging the alternator and it is normal noise and are refusing to fix it. Very frustrating. Now I'm stuck with a squealing car.

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

Try taking it to another dealer.

You have every visit documented .
I'm sure the dealer or at least i hope the dealer has their Techincal Asst Center involved.
If it is design intent,then they should be able to provide you with a similar vehicle(s) to compare it to to see if it is in fact design intent and a normal characteristic of the vehicle.Or,on your own,find another like vehicle and compare it.
If your not satisfied with their diagnosis/answer,contact corporate customer asst for help .If its not design intent and they cannot fix it,they need to get engineering involved.They can send an engineer out to assist the dealer with this concern.

I hate to offer this,but look into Lemon laws in your state.Provided you purchased the vehicle new.
Lemon Car
The statutes define lemon cars and require that manufacturers (not dealers) remedy the defects. Most statutes define "lemons" as cars that continue to have a defect that substantially impairs the use, value, or safety of the car after a reasonable number of attempts to repair the car or after the car has been out of service for a particular number of days

Response From kpiechoc

I have actually gone that route already and the arbitrator said because it does not impair the driving of the vehicle the lemon law will not allow me to get a new vehicle. No other dealership will look at it as a second opinion because the hyundai manager already decided he thinks there's nothing wrong with the car and so won't cover it under warrenty. It's just frustrating more than anything. I'm hoping someone else has had this same problem and knows how to fix the squeal or siren noise.

Engine problems with Hyundai diesel 1.5 CRDi

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Brajko007 on Engine problems with Hyundai diesel 1.5 CRDi

2007
Hyundai
Getz
1.5 diesel, 65 kW
CRDi
135 000 km

Dear all I have some odd problems with my car so I would need your friendly advice what to do.

My car has problems when started and driven in cold weather.
Car starts normally but when driven looses power (gas) dies on me, when I stop on a stop light and Im trying to start when moving my foot from clutch car dies immediately because rpms drop from 1000 rpms to 500 rpms in a second and car dies. This problem occurs periodically it has days when it is driven all works fine but it has days in the morning or when it is cold (bellow zero temps.) that has this problem. :(

In the past few weeks we changed: oil, oil filter, fuel filter, one bad fuel hose that goes from fuel filter to the engine, we cleaned our fuel tank, conducted testings via computer diagnostics it does not shows any errors, we checked fuel pressure valve and the valve works ok, we changed 2 bad starting heater electrodes (bosch), battery is ok.

And after all this problem occurs periodically, car for a few days works fine but then the problems starts and the car has these described problems for the next few days. :(

Anyone with constructive advice please advise...

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Just to let you know this forum is the based in the United States and that vehicle is not sold here. Advice may be limited.

97 Honda Civic shuddering and hesitating

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From Guest on 97 Honda Civic shuddering and hesitating

My husbands Civic has started to have some problems and we're not sure what is going on. He mentioned to me a couple months ago that his car was hesitating and acting sluggish. I used to have a Hyundai that did the same thing and it was the fuel pump. I asked him when he had his fuel filter replaced and he said "you mean my oil filter, right?" that answered my question... We took it in to get the fuel filter replaced and it was extremely clogged.
It was a little better after that, but now its skipping. He describes it as feeling like it "skips first and second gear" its an automatic. Now its started shuddering, too. Never in the morning when he first goes to work, usually after he drives it for a bit, or when he's heading home from work.

We've got an appointment with the Honda dealer on Monday, and we took it into a repair shop today for them to run a diagnostic - they didn't find anything. Hopefully the Honda dealer will. But, in the meantime, does anyone have any suggestions?

Do you think the fuel pump is dieing? I kept telling him to get it replaced but he wouldn't listen "cause he doesn't think I know about cars..." grrr hehehe

His dad told him to get the transmission fluid replaced. That's what he was going to do until I practically begged him to take it in for a diagnostic check first.

Response From dave284

You mentioned the fuel filter being clogged.....was it rust? the fuel pump also has a filter on it.....Mopar makes a fuel treatment thats that always worked for me.....I buy mine from the dodge dealership. There is a chance that some of the dirt might passed into the injectors/injector.

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

We're going to go tonight to buy Fuel injector cleaner and dry gas. The guys at the repair shop suggested that it might be water in his gas tank, but could possibly be the injectors, too. They said to put in fuel injector cleaner, dry gas and premium gasoline and run the car. Worth a shot. We've still got the appointment at the dealership if this doesn't work.

They also suggested that it might be a bad spark plug or a cylinder problem, neither of which would show up on a diagnostic test. And his check engine light isnt on.

Response From dave284

There would be a misfire code if it was a sparkplug/or bad cylinder.....I would say the problem is at the fuelpump or at the injectors...but the idea with the gas is a good start....but don't waste your money on cheap fuel cleaners....they are not good enough for severe cases...good luck

2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L 4WD hesitation at light throttle after 15-20 minutes of driving

Showing 2 out of 22 Posts | Show 20 Hidden Posts
Question From hisdudeness47 on 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L 4WD hesitation at light throttle after 15-20 minutes of driving

Hey guys, I've been having trouble diagnosing a hesitation at light throttle, but it doesn't happen immediately. The car drives fine for the first 15 or 20 minutes, but soon I experience a hesitation while lightly on the gas pedal as if I have taken my foot off the gas. It feels normal for two seconds, then no throttle for two seconds, then normal again, and it repeats like this at light pedal pressure. If I floor it, there is no hesitation. This problem makes it impossible to drive until I pull over and unplug my TPS and then I can drive around just fine in manual mode, shifting myself. Then after the car sits I can plug my TPS back in, drive around fine again for 15-20 minutes before the hesitation happens again and then I have to again unplug the TPS and drive in manual mode. I keep the TPS connected around town because idle is very high when the TPS is unplugged and I'm often driving no more than 10 minutes. It doesn't make sense to me why it takes a bit for this hesitation to begin and why unplugging the TPS and driving in manual mode seems to fix the problem. I've recently replaced my crankshaft position sensor, idle air control valve, purge control valve solenoid and the TPS. When I recently replaced the TPS, another problem I've been having recently, a high idle in park, was fixed, so there certainly was something wrong with the last one. I thought the hesitation was fixed also, but it popped up again when I went for an extended drive. I'm kind of at a loss for what would cause this. I just went on a 100 mile camping trip in manual mode no problem, but I can't be driving around forever with no TPS. I idle at 3000 with no TPS. Any help diagnosing this or ideas on what tests to run would be a great help. Thanks!

Response From Discretesignals

Was this recorded during the hesitation event?

Why do you think they are bad? The switching frequency looks good and they are crossing the 0.5 volt line. The rears are not going to be as active as the front because they are behind the catalyst which is using the oxygen in the exhaust to convert gasses. What are your long and short term fuel trims? What was the engine rpm while you were recording? During the hesitation how do your front sensors react? Also understand that the engine controller is monitoring the performance of those sensors and you don't have any O2 codes.

Response From hisdudeness47

I did this test at idle with a warmed up engine. I thought all the sensors were supposed to fluctuate regularly between .1 and .9 volts. The upstream sensors seem good to me, but it seems to me like the downstream sensors are not giving any kind of steady reading. I'm new to this, forgive me! I drove around and tested the long term fuel trims and they were both around +4.

Response From Discretesignals

Those types of sensors will fluctuate between those voltages due how the engine controller is controlling the fuel trim based off the sensors' voltages. The front sensors are mainly used to trim or correct the fuel to air mixture, so that the catalysts are in an environment that makes them the most efficient. The rear sensors are used to monitor the performance of the catalysts, so if they become inefficient at converting harmful gasses to less harmful gasses the computer can flag codes to report a converter performance issue. Sometimes the rear sensors can be used for fine fuel trimming or to check the bias of the front sensors to be sure they haven't shifted.

The powertrain control system is a complex system of different components and systems that work together. You are just seeing one part of that system. You need to understand the entire powertrain control system fully to be able to troubleshoot it and its system. As you can see the scan tool you have doesn't tell you what is wrong or what needs to be replaced. It is a tool that is used to give you information about various parts of the system, so you can draw a picture of what is actually going on. That picture guides you or gives you direction on what kind of problems could be causing those symptoms and what tests you should use to validate your suspected culprits.

Like I mentioned, once the catalysts are warmed up and operational the rear sensors are not going to be mimicking the front sensors' voltages because the catalysts are using the oxygen in the exhaust for the conversion process. The signals from the rear sensors are going to be more flat and have way less cross counts unless the catalyst are faulty or not at operational temperatures.

The hesitation issue may or may not show up in the oxygen sensor wave forms. Even if it does, more than likely the response from the sensors will be just a response to the hesitation problem and not caused by the sensors themselves. Hesitation is caused from lack of fuel or misfiring on engine speed acceleration. Misfiring could be caused by ignition, mechanical, or fueling issues. The hesitation may not be engine related, so keep that in mind.

Since there is a software bug fix out there for that, you should probably focus on that first. The TSB may or may not apply to your vehicle, but you should find out. You could spend days troubleshooting and swapping parts, but all that is fruitless if it is a software bug at the top of the ladder causing your issue.

To really see what could be going on you need diagnostic software that can record multiple data parameter identifiers and plot them on a graph over a long period of time. You also have to be recording when the fault is present. Then you can sit down or even share the recording to see if anything in the data gives clues as to what is happening and where to look.

Below is recording from a high end scan tool that you can actually use cursors to move through the graphs to see the values of the PIDs at certain points in the recording. You can see multiple frames of information and get a better understanding how the entire system is operating than viewing just one or a few pieces of static information at a certain time frame. You can also see how different PIDs interact with each other.

For example, you notice that as the engine rpm rises you see an increase in ignition advance, load and injector pulse width. The increased pulse width or on time of the injectors allow more fuel to enter the cylinders as the throttle is opened. This causes an increase in engine speed. Since the engine is speeding up, the ignition timing needs to be advanced, so spark occurs earlier to allow complete burn of the fuel/air charge in the cylinders. The load is a calculation made by the engine controller based on various sensor inputs. The load is equivalent to the torque output of the engine. The computer may use that information for traction control or to protect the transmission. You could also graph the TPS, MAP, and MAF parameters and see how they relate. If you understand the systems and components of the power train control system, you can sit there with this recording and figure out how the engine was running and what all the inputs and controls were doing when a fault occurred. These are the kind of tools most drive-ability techs use. We can share these data files and review them just as you can on your scan tool at home.


Response From hisdudeness47

Thanks for the response. It just seems to me like my downstream B1S2 is not flat at all. It's all over the place. Also, my downstream B2S2 is extremely low around .1. From what I'm reading the downstream sensors should be relatively flat between .35 and .65. My downstream sensors are anything but that. I realize the downstream sensors may not affect my hesitation problem at all, but I do want them to be behaving like they should.

Response From hisdudeness47

Update: the dealer diagnosed that my throttle cable and cruise control cable were both too tight. Loosened those up and fixed! No more hesitation. However, I still get poor MPG and my car just threw a P0420 code, low catalyst efficiency Bank 1. The graphs I showed earlier certainly seem to show that the Bank 1 cat isn't operating correctly or something else is up. Any ideas?

Response From Discretesignals

That is interesting. You would think with a too tight cable that was holding the throttle open, the engine would idle higher than what the PCM was desiring. Do you remember what the throttle position sensor voltage at idle was before they readjusted the cables compared to now? Did they clean the throttle bore and plate also? Hesitation is possible with the dirty throttle body.

B1S2 is showing a similar pattern to B1S1 which usually means a failed cat. To be sure hold the rpm at 2500 with the engine warmed up and then see if the voltage patterns are looking the same. Be sure your graphs are not auto ranging. If the PCM flagged a P0420 for an efficiency issue, 90% of the time it is a cat. Just make sure you don't have any exhaust leaks or misfires. Ignition or mechanical related misfires will cook a cat or degrade it. Thanks for the update.

Response From hisdudeness47

1. The throttle is at 9.0 now at idle. It was idling at 1000-1100 RPM in Park before the adjustment. The idle in Park is exactly the same as Drive at 700 RPM now. Much better idle.

2. I regraphed the Bank 1 sensors at 2500 RPM after a warmup. They are almost exact. Here they are....

B1S1:

B2S2:

So, I likely have a failed cat? You said that this is the case 90% of the time, but what is the other 10%? Also, I did a vacuum test and the exhaust didn't seem to be clogged. The vacuum gauge responded exactly as it should. If the cat is not clogged, but is just broken, would that still explain my poor MPG? Is a broken but unclogged cat going to affect my driveability and MPG or just my emissions?

Response From Discretesignals

That is good stuff that your posting because you have data to back up your suspicions. I'd definitely say the cat is bad from that waveform. The other 10% is exhaust leaks, software issues, O2 problems, other engine drive-ability problems that would make a cat not function properly. I really don't think you have 02 issues and software problems may not cause the cat to just flat out not work. There has to be a reason it failed. Maybe removing it and taking a gander at the substrate may give you an answer.

Many factors will influence poor fuel mileage. Inefficient cat probably isn't one of them and will only affect emissions.

Response From hisdudeness47 Top Rated Answer

Thanks so much for your help, man. You're killin' it. Now it's on to my next diagnosis, what caused my cat to fail? I'd wager that whatever caused my cat to fail is also what is causing my poor fuel efficiency, not the cat itself. Would you agree? What sort of things could have made my cat fail? What should be my next test/course of action? How can I test for exhaust leaks? I bought this vehicle about 1000 miles ago at 110K so I can't be 100% sure about everything that has been done, but I do have some records. Looking at previous records, it had its Hyundai 90K service about 14K miles ago with spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, new battery, tranny flush and fluid, fuel injector service, and timing belt. Coolant temperature sensor was replaced about 10K ago. Oil and oil filter were done about 1000 miles ago. Thoughts about where to start looking? Getting 15 MPG hurts my soul and I need to figure out what fried the cat before I replace the cat! Thanks again.

Response From hisdudeness47

I seem to remember it being at 12.4 before the adjustment. I'll check it now. The guy at Hyundai also pulled the cruise control cable out of its guide saying that the guide actually causes problems and should not be fed through it. Maladjusted tension was all it was, I suppose. I'll go for a drive and post new Bank 1 sensor graphs shortly.

Response From Discretesignals

Kinda of hard to say what is going on because there is no scan data available for us to see. I suspect maybe a MAF sensor issue, but you would have to test with a lab scope to verify.

Response From hisdudeness47

Also, I just purchased an ODB II bluetooth scan tool and Torque Pro, but I'm really sure what to look for with a problem like this. Is there any data from that I could provide you that could assist a diagnosis?

Response From Discretesignals

Trying to catch a glitching MAF sensor with a scan tool can be difficult also. Main things you should look at are engine coolant temperature and MAF grams/sec or lbs/min. Right down the reading of the MAF values when it is running good and compare them to when it acts up. Compare the ECT and the IAT when the engine is cold and make sure they match. You can also watch your O2 sensor voltages and do a wide open throttle test while driving in a safe area to be sure their voltages go high. This would tell you if the engine is getting enough fuel under extreme load. Some of the software in the vehicles can compare MAF information to the TPS information and perform a rationality test that could set some sort of MAF performance code, but that is a big ?? Like I stated the MAF being the culprit is just a big guess. The sensor reacts to the volume of air flowing through it, so make sure all your ducting and vent hoses are in good shape, not ripped or torn.


Here is a TSB for a hesitation. It doesn't go indepth as to when the hesitation occurs, but it is a possibility. Obviously it is software bug that requires a reflash at the dealer or shop with the capability.
Number: 04-36-017

Date: SEPTEMBER, 2004

Model: SANTA FE(SM)

Subject
2003-2004 SANTA FE(SM) 2.7L ECM REPROGRAMMING FOR INTERMITTENT HESITATION

DESCRIPTION:

Some 2003-2004 SANTA FE(SM) 2.7L vehicles may experience intermittent hesitation while driving.

This bulletin provides a procedure for updating the ECM (Engine Control Module) software with new logic to improve the above condition by using the Hi-Scan Pro.

VEHICLES AFFECTED:

^ Model : 2003-2004 SANTA FE (SM) 2.7L vehicles

^ Affected vehicle production date range

^ Produced through August 13, 2004

^ Affected VIN range:

^ Produced through KM85C73D15U855406

^ Area : North America

Response From hisdudeness47

In the Torque Pro app, I can add sensors for O2 Sensor1 wide-range voltage, O2Sensor2 wide-range voltage, etc, but I can also add sensors for O2 Volts Bank1 sensor 1, O2 Volts Bank 1 sensor 2, etc.... I'm not sure what the difference is and which ones I should be looking at for what you are explaining.

Response From Discretesignals

That is totally different subject that would turn this thread into a classroom. You may need to do some research, if your interested, in oxygen sensor operation and how the computer reacts and displays information.

I can tell you that your vehicle doesn't use wide band O2 sensors, so those PIDs are not valid. You want to monitor Bank 1 sensor 1 and Bank 2 sensor 1 voltages. They will fluctuate between 0 and 1 volts.

Response From hisdudeness47

Hey, so I monitored all 4 of my O2 sensors after a proper warmup, and I think we might be on to something! My bank 1 sensor 2 and bank 2 sensor 2 both seem to be bad, while bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1 seem to be alright. Check out these graphs and see if you agree. Would this be a likely cause of my issues? I also didn't mention that I'm getting poor MPG....

Bank 1 Sensor 1:

Bank 1 Sensor 2:

Bank 2 Sensor 1:

Bank 2 Sensor 2:

Response From hisdudeness47

So I cleaned my MAF sensor a few weeks ago, but that doesn't mean it isn't defective. Is a MAF sensor's operation something I could check with a multimeter?

Response From Discretesignals

You can check it with a volt meter, but the problem is that you need to be able to graph the voltage signal over time to see any signal drop outs or other glitches. The sample rate has to be fairly high and most volt meters don't have a high sample rate, so they average the voltage and hide signal glitches. The only thing you could do is to swap it with a known good one or find someone that has the equipment. It is just a guess on my part based off your symptoms. Drive-ability problems are extremely difficult to solve without actually being there with the right equipment.

Response From hisdudeness47

Guess it wouldn't hurt to buy a new MAF from Autozone, try it, and return it if it doesn't help. Thanks for your help. That's more help in 10 minutes than I got in days from the Hyundai forums. Anyone else have any ideas?

Response From kev2

Why not get the system scanned for codes? its FREE easy?
yes scan even if light is off.

Response From hisdudeness47

Ah, I should have said, there's no codes besides the one that's thrown when I unplug the TPS.