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Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Bosch
    Bosch
  • Delphi
    Delphi
  • Denso
    Denso
  • NGK
    NGK
  • Spectra
    Spectra
  • Walker
    Walker

Best Selling Genuine Suzuki O2 Sensors

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Walker, Bosch, Delphi, Denso
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Suzuki Replacement O2 Sensor Parts

We stock O2 Sensor parts for most Suzuki models, including Aerio, Esteem, Forenza, Grand Vitara, Reno, SX4, Samurai, Sidekick, Verona, XL7.

Walker
2005 Suzuki Forenza Oxygen Sensor - Upstream Walker - Walker OE

P311-2D2524E    250-24384  New

Qty:
$52.01
Walker Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • Walker Products 250-24384 Oxygen Sensor 4-W Direct Fit
  • ; Upstream
  • Walker OE
  • Product Attributes:
    • CA_Prop65_Nickel: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals, Including Nickel And Nickel Alloyed Stainless Steel, Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Connector Shape: Radiused Polygon
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 18.0
    • Wire Gauge Measurement: 20
    • Wire Quantity: 4
  • Walker Products Engine Management and Oxygen/Air-Fuel sensors have been engineered and developed to be an Original Equipment Manufacturers replacement for many vehicles worldwide. Every part number is manufactured for the specific application, fitment position on the vehicle, and will provide the relevant diagnostic system feedback as required by the ECU.Newer vehicles will store fault codes in the ECU, some will relate to the affected sensor and its associated systems. A failed sensor might make itself known by causing the engine to run poorly, increase fuel consumption, exhaust emissions, or illuminating a (MIL) malfunction indicator light. The sensor, wiring harness, and connector should also be checked for physical damage. This will most likely also cause their operational life to be shortened.We are an Automotive ISO9001/TS 16949 certified company, with un-paralleled customer service, marketing, and shipping. Our electronic and paper catalogs are designed for today’s fast paced marketplace, along with our eye catching packaging. Since 1946, Walker Products has been the number one choice for the engine management sensors and fuel system components needed for your vehicle.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Walker
Position: Upstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Fuel Type Fuel Delivery Type Position
2005 - Suzuki Forenza Naturally Aspirated GAS FI Upstream
Walker
2005 Suzuki Verona Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 2.5L Walker - Walker OE

P311-2D2524E    250-24384  New

Qty:
$52.01
Walker Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • Walker Products 250-24384 Oxygen Sensor 4-W Direct Fit
  • ; Upstream Cyl 1-3
  • Walker OE
  • Product Attributes:
    • CA_Prop65_Nickel: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals, Including Nickel And Nickel Alloyed Stainless Steel, Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Connector Shape: Radiused Polygon
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 18.0
    • Wire Gauge Measurement: 20
    • Wire Quantity: 4
  • Walker Products Engine Management and Oxygen/Air-Fuel sensors have been engineered and developed to be an Original Equipment Manufacturers replacement for many vehicles worldwide. Every part number is manufactured for the specific application, fitment position on the vehicle, and will provide the relevant diagnostic system feedback as required by the ECU.Newer vehicles will store fault codes in the ECU, some will relate to the affected sensor and its associated systems. A failed sensor might make itself known by causing the engine to run poorly, increase fuel consumption, exhaust emissions, or illuminating a (MIL) malfunction indicator light. The sensor, wiring harness, and connector should also be checked for physical damage. This will most likely also cause their operational life to be shortened.We are an Automotive ISO9001/TS 16949 certified company, with un-paralleled customer service, marketing, and shipping. Our electronic and paper catalogs are designed for today’s fast paced marketplace, along with our eye catching packaging. Since 1946, Walker Products has been the number one choice for the engine management sensors and fuel system components needed for your vehicle.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Walker
Position: Upstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Fuel Type Fuel Delivery Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Suzuki Verona Naturally Aspirated GAS FI Upstream L 6 Cyl 2.5L - 2492
Walker
2005 Suzuki Verona Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 2.5L Walker - Walker OE

P311-2D2524E    250-24384  New

Qty:
$52.01
Walker Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • Walker Products 250-24384 Oxygen Sensor 4-W Direct Fit
  • ; Upstream Cyl 4-6
  • Walker OE
  • Product Attributes:
    • CA_Prop65_Nickel: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals, Including Nickel And Nickel Alloyed Stainless Steel, Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Connector Shape: Radiused Polygon
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 18.0
    • Wire Gauge Measurement: 20
    • Wire Quantity: 4
  • Walker Products Engine Management and Oxygen/Air-Fuel sensors have been engineered and developed to be an Original Equipment Manufacturers replacement for many vehicles worldwide. Every part number is manufactured for the specific application, fitment position on the vehicle, and will provide the relevant diagnostic system feedback as required by the ECU.Newer vehicles will store fault codes in the ECU, some will relate to the affected sensor and its associated systems. A failed sensor might make itself known by causing the engine to run poorly, increase fuel consumption, exhaust emissions, or illuminating a (MIL) malfunction indicator light. The sensor, wiring harness, and connector should also be checked for physical damage. This will most likely also cause their operational life to be shortened.We are an Automotive ISO9001/TS 16949 certified company, with un-paralleled customer service, marketing, and shipping. Our electronic and paper catalogs are designed for today’s fast paced marketplace, along with our eye catching packaging. Since 1946, Walker Products has been the number one choice for the engine management sensors and fuel system components needed for your vehicle.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Walker
Position: Upstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Fuel Type Fuel Delivery Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Suzuki Verona Naturally Aspirated GAS FI Upstream L 6 Cyl 2.5L - 2492
Walker
2005 Suzuki Forenza Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 4 Cyl 2.0L Walker - Walker OE

P311-2D2524E    250-24384  New

Qty:
$52.01
Walker Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • Walker Products 250-24384 Oxygen Sensor 4-W Direct Fit
  • ; B1S1
  • Walker OE
  • Product Attributes:
    • CA_Prop65_Nickel: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals, Including Nickel And Nickel Alloyed Stainless Steel, Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Connector Shape: Radiused Polygon
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 18.0
    • Wire Gauge Measurement: 20
    • Wire Quantity: 4
  • Walker Products Engine Management and Oxygen/Air-Fuel sensors have been engineered and developed to be an Original Equipment Manufacturers replacement for many vehicles worldwide. Every part number is manufactured for the specific application, fitment position on the vehicle, and will provide the relevant diagnostic system feedback as required by the ECU.Newer vehicles will store fault codes in the ECU, some will relate to the affected sensor and its associated systems. A failed sensor might make itself known by causing the engine to run poorly, increase fuel consumption, exhaust emissions, or illuminating a (MIL) malfunction indicator light. The sensor, wiring harness, and connector should also be checked for physical damage. This will most likely also cause their operational life to be shortened.We are an Automotive ISO9001/TS 16949 certified company, with un-paralleled customer service, marketing, and shipping. Our electronic and paper catalogs are designed for today’s fast paced marketplace, along with our eye catching packaging. Since 1946, Walker Products has been the number one choice for the engine management sensors and fuel system components needed for your vehicle.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Walker
Position: Upstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Fuel Type Fuel Delivery Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Suzuki Forenza Naturally Aspirated GAS FI Upstream L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1998
Walker
2005 Suzuki Verona Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 2.5L Walker - Walker OE

P311-2D2524E    250-24384  New

Qty:
$52.01
Walker Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • Walker Products 250-24384 Oxygen Sensor 4-W Direct Fit
  • ; Cyl 4-6
  • Walker OE
  • Product Attributes:
    • CA_Prop65_Nickel: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals, Including Nickel And Nickel Alloyed Stainless Steel, Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Connector Shape: Radiused Polygon
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 18.0
    • Wire Gauge Measurement: 20
    • Wire Quantity: 4
  • Walker Products Engine Management and Oxygen/Air-Fuel sensors have been engineered and developed to be an Original Equipment Manufacturers replacement for many vehicles worldwide. Every part number is manufactured for the specific application, fitment position on the vehicle, and will provide the relevant diagnostic system feedback as required by the ECU.Newer vehicles will store fault codes in the ECU, some will relate to the affected sensor and its associated systems. A failed sensor might make itself known by causing the engine to run poorly, increase fuel consumption, exhaust emissions, or illuminating a (MIL) malfunction indicator light. The sensor, wiring harness, and connector should also be checked for physical damage. This will most likely also cause their operational life to be shortened.We are an Automotive ISO9001/TS 16949 certified company, with un-paralleled customer service, marketing, and shipping. Our electronic and paper catalogs are designed for today’s fast paced marketplace, along with our eye catching packaging. Since 1946, Walker Products has been the number one choice for the engine management sensors and fuel system components needed for your vehicle.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Walker
Position: Upstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Fuel Type Fuel Delivery Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Suzuki Verona Naturally Aspirated GAS FI Upstream L 6 Cyl 2.5L - 2492
Walker
2005 Suzuki Verona Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 2.5L Walker - Walker OE

P311-2D2524E    250-24384  New

Qty:
$52.01
Walker Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • Walker Products 250-24384 Oxygen Sensor 4-W Direct Fit
  • ; Cyl 1-3
  • Walker OE
  • Product Attributes:
    • CA_Prop65_Nickel: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals, Including Nickel And Nickel Alloyed Stainless Steel, Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Connector Shape: Radiused Polygon
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 18.0
    • Wire Gauge Measurement: 20
    • Wire Quantity: 4
  • Walker Products Engine Management and Oxygen/Air-Fuel sensors have been engineered and developed to be an Original Equipment Manufacturers replacement for many vehicles worldwide. Every part number is manufactured for the specific application, fitment position on the vehicle, and will provide the relevant diagnostic system feedback as required by the ECU.Newer vehicles will store fault codes in the ECU, some will relate to the affected sensor and its associated systems. A failed sensor might make itself known by causing the engine to run poorly, increase fuel consumption, exhaust emissions, or illuminating a (MIL) malfunction indicator light. The sensor, wiring harness, and connector should also be checked for physical damage. This will most likely also cause their operational life to be shortened.We are an Automotive ISO9001/TS 16949 certified company, with un-paralleled customer service, marketing, and shipping. Our electronic and paper catalogs are designed for today’s fast paced marketplace, along with our eye catching packaging. Since 1946, Walker Products has been the number one choice for the engine management sensors and fuel system components needed for your vehicle.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Walker
Position: Upstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Fuel Type Fuel Delivery Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Suzuki Verona Naturally Aspirated GAS FI Upstream L 6 Cyl 2.5L - 2492
Bosch
Qty:
$56.09
Bosch Oxygen Sensor  Downstream
  • Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • Universal Oxygen Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automotive Item Weight (lbs): 0.339512 Lb
    • Connector Shape: None
    • Heated (Oxygen Sensor): Yes
    • Hex Size (Oxygen Sensor): 22 Mm
    • Length (Sealing Surface To End Of Connector): 24.92 In
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Oxygen Sensor Type: Narrow-band Heated
    • Prop 65 Warning Label Required?: No
    • Thread Diameter: 18
    • Wire Quantity: 4
  • Bosch is the world’s leading supplier and original equipment manufacturer of Oxygen Sensors. Bosch invented the automotive oxygen sensor and leads the way in sensor technology and innovation. From overall sensor design to the critical ceramic element, Bosch is known worldwide for quality and performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Position: Downstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Suzuki Esteem Downstream L 4 Cyl 1.6L 97 1590
Bosch
Qty:
$56.09
Bosch Oxygen Sensor  Downstream
  • Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • Universal Oxygen Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automotive Item Weight (lbs): 0.339512 Lb
    • Connector Shape: None
    • Heated (Oxygen Sensor): Yes
    • Hex Size (Oxygen Sensor): 22 Mm
    • Length (Sealing Surface To End Of Connector): 24.92 In
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Oxygen Sensor Type: Narrow-band Heated
    • Prop 65 Warning Label Required?: No
    • Thread Diameter: 18
    • Wire Quantity: 4
  • Bosch is the world’s leading supplier and original equipment manufacturer of Oxygen Sensors. Bosch invented the automotive oxygen sensor and leads the way in sensor technology and innovation. From overall sensor design to the critical ceramic element, Bosch is known worldwide for quality and performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Position: Downstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Suzuki Grand Vitara Downstream V 6 Cyl 2.5L - 2500
Bosch
Qty:
$56.09
Bosch Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • ; with California Emissions
  • Universal Oxygen Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automotive Item Weight (lbs): 0.339512 Lb
    • Connector Shape: None
    • Heated (Oxygen Sensor): Yes
    • Hex Size (Oxygen Sensor): 22 Mm
    • Length (Sealing Surface To End Of Connector): 24.92 In
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Oxygen Sensor Type: Narrow-band Heated
    • Prop 65 Warning Label Required?: No
    • Thread Diameter: 18
    • Wire Quantity: 4
  • Bosch is the world’s leading supplier and original equipment manufacturer of Oxygen Sensors. Bosch invented the automotive oxygen sensor and leads the way in sensor technology and innovation. From overall sensor design to the critical ceramic element, Bosch is known worldwide for quality and performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Position: Upstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Suzuki Swift Upstream L 3 Cyl 1.0L 61 993
Delphi
2005 Suzuki Reno Oxygen Sensor - Rear 4 Cyl 2.0L Delphi

P311-5D5A561    ES20145  New

SG321 , SU5247 , FS2V-18-861A , TA3418861A , FSD7-18-861A , 22103 , REA1053 , FS2V-18-861B , OS846 , FSC6-18-861A , 138307 , KL61-18-861 , 138-610 , FS7N-18-8619U , FSC618861A , FS1G-18-861A , FS7N18861 , SU5794 , FSC618861A9U , SG1079 , 22002 , 15262 , 2131286 , F62Z9F472DD , 138-695 , TA3418861B , KL6118861 , FSD7-18-861 , FS2V-18-861B9U , SU2094 , OS1833 , FS2V18861A , KL6118861A9U , F62F9F472DD , 1821385Z10 , 18213-85Z10 , 250-24629 , SG1043 , SU4609 , 2344629 , 2131409 , FS1G-18-861 , DY-784 , FSD718861 , 13888 , SG550 , SG1040 , 2131490 , OS199 , KL61-18-861A , SG1081 , FS2V18861B9U , FS7N-18-861 , 138610 , 138-307 , OS1835 , 2344721 , 2131368 , 22098 , SG1084 , FS2V18861B , 13971 , 2131365 , 234-4041 , SU4577 , TA34-18-861B9U , F62F 9F472-DD , FS1G18861 , 13870 , 13579 , 13289 , OS1838 , DY784 , TA34-18-861B , TA3418861B9U , 25024629 , 2131441 , F62Z 9F472-DD , 234-4629 , 234-4427 , SG320 , FS1G18861A , OS1794 , SU4586 , FS7N188619U , FSC6-18-861A9U , SU5806 , 234-4721 , TA34-18-861A , KL6118861A , TA34-18-861 , 22533 , KL61-18-861A9U , 138695 , 22091 , TA3418861 , 2131284 , FSC6-18-861 , FSC618861 , FSD718861A , 2131285 , 25185 , 2344041 , 13287 , OS1797

Qty:
$58.87
Delphi Oxygen Sensor  Rear
  • Oxygen Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Shape: Square
    • Overall Length: 340.0
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Wire Quantity: 4
  • OE connectors and wire lengths within 3 inches of OE specifications; Unique sensor coatings to resist contamination; Long lasting reliable operation.
Brand: Delphi
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Aspiration Fuel Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Suzuki Reno S Naturally Aspirated GAS Rear L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1998
Delphi
2011 Suzuki Equator Oxygen Sensor - Rear 4 Cyl 2.5L Delphi

P311-3A99DCD    ES20172  New

226908U300 , REA1584 , 234-4297 , SG1692 , 16513 , OS1716 , 226A0EA200 , 25024453 , 24644 , SG957 , REA1588 , SU6863 , SG1659 , 13882 , 18213-82Z20 , 2344814 , 234-4814 , 1821382Z20 , 22690-8U300 , 16511 , 16596 , OS1711 , 226A0-7S001 , 226A0-8U300 , 226A07S001 , SG962 , 250-24453 , 226A08U300 , 226A0-EA200 , 24244 , 234-4835

Qty:
$88.97
Delphi Oxygen Sensor  Rear
  • Oxygen Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Shape: Square
    • Overall Length: 470.0
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Wire Quantity: 4
  • OE connectors and wire lengths within 3 inches of OE specifications; Unique sensor coatings to resist contamination; Long lasting reliable operation
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Delphi
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Engine Designation Aspiration Fuel Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Suzuki Equator Premium QR25DE Naturally Aspirated GAS Rear L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488
Delphi
2012 Suzuki Equator Oxygen Sensor - Rear Right 6 Cyl 4.0L Delphi

P311-3A99DCD    ES20172  New

226908U300 , REA1584 , 234-4297 , SG1692 , 16513 , OS1716 , 226A0EA200 , 25024453 , 24644 , SG957 , REA1588 , SU6863 , SG1659 , 13882 , 18213-82Z20 , 2344814 , 234-4814 , 1821382Z20 , 22690-8U300 , 16511 , 16596 , OS1711 , 226A0-7S001 , 226A0-8U300 , 226A07S001 , SG962 , 250-24453 , 226A08U300 , 226A0-EA200 , 24244 , 234-4835

Qty:
$88.97
Delphi Oxygen Sensor  Rear Right
  • Oxygen Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Shape: Square
    • Overall Length: 470.0
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Wire Quantity: 4
  • OE connectors and wire lengths within 3 inches of OE specifications; Unique sensor coatings to resist contamination; Long lasting reliable operation
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Delphi
Position: Rear Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Engine Designation Aspiration Fuel Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Suzuki Equator Sport VQ40DE Naturally Aspirated GAS Rear Right V 6 Cyl 4.0L - 3954
Denso
2004 Suzuki Aerio Oxygen Sensor - Downstream 4 Cyl 2.3L Denso - Universal

P311-49D82AB    234-4212  New

Qty:
$43.59
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Downstream
  • Oxygen Sensor 4 Wire, Universal, Heated, Wire Length: 11.77
  • ; O.E. Quality Universal Replacement Sensor
  • Universal
  • Product Attributes:
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 0.708
    • Wire Quantity: 4
    • Wiring Harness Length: 11.77
  • DENSO Oxygen Sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Position: Downstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Suzuki Aerio Downstream L 4 Cyl 2.3L 140 2290
Denso
2000 Suzuki Grand Vitara Oxygen Sensor - Downstream 6 Cyl 2.5L Denso - Universal

P311-1B9634D    234-4210  New

Qty:
$44.95
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Downstream
  • Oxygen Sensor 4 Wire, Universal, Heated, Wire Length: 11.77
  • ; O.E. Quality Universal Replacement Sensor
  • Universal
  • Product Attributes:
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 0.708
    • Wire Quantity: 4
    • Wiring Harness Length: 11.77
  • DENSO Oxygen Sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Position: Downstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Suzuki Grand Vitara Downstream V 6 Cyl 2.5L - 2500
Denso
2004 Suzuki XL-7 Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 2.7L Denso - OE Style

P311-4584169    234-4084  New

75-3274 , 15634 , 1821365D32 , 21507 , 1821365D10 , 213-1354 , OS2130 , 213-949 , SG1297 , ES20031

Qty:
$68.36
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • Oxygen Sensor 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 9.84
  • ; DENSO is the O.E. Manufacturer / Oxygen Sensor
  • OE Style
  • Product Attributes:
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 0.708
    • Wire Quantity: 4
    • Wiring Harness Length: 9.84
  • DENSO Oxygen Sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Position: Upstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Suzuki XL-7 Upstream V 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2737
Denso
2004 Suzuki XL-7 Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 6 Cyl 2.7L Denso - Universal

P311-1B9634D    234-4210  New

Qty:
$44.95
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • Oxygen Sensor 4 Wire, Universal, Heated, Wire Length: 11.77
  • ; O.E. Quality Universal Replacement Sensor
  • Universal
  • Product Attributes:
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 0.708
    • Wire Quantity: 4
    • Wiring Harness Length: 11.77
  • DENSO Oxygen Sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Position: Upstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Suzuki XL-7 Upstream V 6 Cyl 2.7L - 2737
Denso
1997 Suzuki Sidekick Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 4 Cyl 1.8L Denso - Universal

P311-1B9634D    234-4210  New

Qty:
$44.95
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • Oxygen Sensor 4 Wire, Universal, Heated, Wire Length: 11.77
  • ; O.E. Quality Universal Replacement Sensor
  • Universal
  • Product Attributes:
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 0.708
    • Wire Quantity: 4
    • Wiring Harness Length: 11.77
  • DENSO Oxygen Sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Position: Upstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1997 - Suzuki Sidekick Upstream L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1840
Denso
2000 Suzuki Vitara Oxygen Sensor - Upstream 4 Cyl 1.6L Denso - OE Style

P311-4584169    234-4084  New

75-3274 , 15634 , 1821365D32 , 21507 , 1821365D10 , 213-1354 , OS2130 , 213-949 , SG1297 , ES20031

Qty:
$68.36
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Upstream
  • Oxygen Sensor 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 9.84
  • ; Calif. DENSO is the O.E. Manufacturer / Oxygen Sensor
  • OE Style
  • Product Attributes:
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 0.708
    • Wire Quantity: 4
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Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Suzuki Vitara Upstream L 4 Cyl 1.6L 97 1590
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Vehicle Cylinder Head Type
1991 - Suzuki Swift SOHC
Bosch
1994 Suzuki Swift Oxygen Sensor Bosch

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Qty:
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Bosch Oxygen Sensor
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Brand: Bosch
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Vehicle Cylinder Head Type
1994 - Suzuki Swift SOHC

Latest Suzuki Repair and O2 Sensor Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

97 suzuki Sidekick p0171 and rough idle

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From julius415 on 97 suzuki Sidekick p0171 and rough idle

Hey everybody didnt see any posts regarding my problem so here it goes.

I have a 1997 suzuki sidekick sport 1.8l with 108k. Some months ago the car started having a rough idle. When ever i came to a stop light the rpm would fluctuate up and down and the car would almost stall out. It progressively got worse and the car did start stalling when at a stop. During one of the rough idling episodes i decided to turn off the car, wait for the stop light to turn green, then turn it back on. But when i went to turn on the car, it wouldnt turn on, in fact not even the dash lights light up. So i called toyota service (they do suzuki's in hawaii), and had them check it out. Turns out during all the rough idling shaking a hose had come loose and spilled ( i think power steerin fluid) all over the alternator, which fried it and i ended up running the battery dry. They also told me my computer was fried. Had all of that replaced and the car turned on but still rough idle. They told to change maf, did and no change, then iac, did also and no change, then they had the nerve to tell me that the whole throttle body had to be changed. I argued they gave me the run around, so i jus paid and got out of there.
I went for a 2 month trip, and while i was gone my friends was using my car. Turns out a oil leak started and the engine ran with very low oil for a while. I came home it was running horribly. Took the engine apart saw that a couple of piston rings were broken and had scratched up the cylindes. Had machine shop hone cylinders, install oversize pistons, and check head. Got everything checked and ready and put it back together. Car is running alot better almost to full power, but now the rough idling returned.
I cleaned egr valve, checked for vacuum leaks the propane method didnt find any( first time doing it so i am not sure if i did a good job at it). But visually inspecting all hoses look good ( no cracks). There was a crack on exhaust manifold and i put thermosteel on it. Seems to be holding and i cant feel and hear any air coming out. I did notice that at first car runs great and no rough idling, but once it warms up the problems start. Also when i reset the ecm things get realy bad.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, i have been trying to figure this out on my own without going to costly mechanics. Also the ecm pulls up a p0171 code, and a p0420 code but i dont have a catalytic converter so it think that is why.
i checked the voltage for o2 sensor and had a constant reading below .45V, which in the haynes book says it is defective. but when i really gas the car i shoots up to .8V. So i am thinking it is not defective but i just get a constant reading below .45V because the mixture is lean. right? and therefore i am getting the p0171 code.
Also since no codes for any of the sensors are coming up it is safe to say that they are working?
anyways hope somebody can help thanks
Julius

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

What is the O2 sensor voltage when your cruising or off idle? Can you monitor fuel trim % with your scanner?

Response From julius415

i measured the o2 voltage with a digital multimeter, with car parked. When idling readings are .1V or below. Haynes repair book said to rev car and readings should fluctuate above and below .5V, but that doesnt happen it stays at .1-.3. But when i fully rev the car the reading shoot up to .8V. Through out the testing the car was rough idling. and i dont have a scanner to measure fuel trim.

Response From Discretesignals

You check to see if your EGR valve was stuck open? That one has an electronic stepper motor EGR valve. The only way your going to be able to tell if it is open is to remove the valve and see if you can blow through it. If the EGR valve is recirculating exhaust gas at idle speeds, the engine will run rough and lean.

Response From julius415

i cleaned it out pretty good with carb cleaner. didnt try to blow through it though. will give that a try. any other suggestions ill get back to you in 20 min.
thanks

Response From julius415

egr valve checks out. cant blow air through it

Response From Discretesignals

There has to be some sort of vacuum leak going on. It must be a pretty good size one to cause the symptoms your experiencing. You may need to swing into a shop that has an EVAP smoke machine. The machine pressurizes the intake with smoky air. Any leaks will show up by the smoke.

How are your power brakes? The wrong PCV valve can also cause a lean symptom or surging. Pinch off vacuum lines including the PCV hose and brake booster hose to see if your idle surge goes away.

Response From julius415

okay thanks ill try pinching the lines. and for the smoke machine i did some web search and found that some people used fog machines(halloween kind) so i think im gonna give that a try. alot cheaper than going to a shop. and brakes work fine except for some squeaking but thats a diff. issue lol
thanks again

Response From Jonas Brunz

Hello, I'm having the same issue on my 98 sidekick. Did you find what is causing this? Thanks! Jonas

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Please start your own thread with your own specifics and not tag on someone else's,

T

2004 Suzuki Forenza HELP!!!!!

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From Cubsfan2112 on 2004 Suzuki Forenza HELP!!!!!

I have a 2004 Suzuki Forenza. A brief history of what I have been dealing with. Back in December I had my radiator replaced by my mechanic. He had mentioned to me that my car was misfiring. So instead of having him diagnose the problem, I figured I could deal with it on my own. At first the car would jerk back and fourth when I would drive around 60-65. Then the car started losing power. I first changed the plugs and wires and the car was still running bad. I started looking online for other problems. I then replaced the ignition coil and that seemed to fix the problem for about 2 weeks. Then the car started running the same way again (jerking and loss of power). I purchased the coil online and paid $30.00 for it. I then read that cheap coils are the wrong thing to buy so I went to my auto parts store and bought a $120.00 ignition coil hoping that, that was the problem and it wasn't. I then changed the throttle position sensor and that didn't fix the problem. I then took my car back to my mechanic and he said the problem was a clogged catalytic converter. He had taken off the o2 sensor so my car would run better but it would be very loud. So I ordered a catalytic converter online and got someone to install it for me. I put the o2 sensor back on and went for a test drive and like usual my car had no power. Like I would be in 5th gear on the freeway barely going 50 mph. My cars check engine light came on and I took my code reader to it and it said po300 code random misfire. I took the o2 sensor off again and power was restored with the loud sound again. The po300 code always seems to go away with the o2 sensor off. When I put it back on the po300 code comes back on. So I heard that I talked to Scotty Kilmer online (he does a lot of troubleshooting videos on youtube) and he said that I could have a clogged muffler and I should get a pressure test done on the muffler and maybe have the muffler replaced. Well I went to my local muffler shop and he said that a muffler can't get clogged and that the problem is probably some chip in the computer. I wasn't sure about that answer he gave me. So I kept reading online about these issues and decided to replace my o2 sensor. I did that yesterday and drove on the freeway only to experience the same problem every time I put the o2 sensor back on. Lack of power and the po300 code came back on. So I took the o2 sensor off again so I can drive my car. I don't have much money and that is why I've been driving my car like it is. After changing the plugs, wires, checking for vacuum leaks, TPS sensor, cat, and o2 sensor. I am running out of ideas. Any ideas of what else it could be? Please help me. Thank you.

Response From Hammer Time

Scotty Kilmer??????

Don't get me going on that idiot. He is a complete moron.

You could have had this professionally diagnosed 10 times over with the money you have wasted throwing part at it.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

"So instead of having him diagnose the problem, I figured I could deal with it on my own."


That was mistake #1. Scotty Kilmer! Get real, that's entertainment for the gullible. You've replaced enough stuff and spent enough on items that were not the problem with wild guesses without diagnosing anything now you'll confuse the your first chance at just diagnosing it and fix what's wrong.


Why did you replace the radiator? No doubt that was the beginning and source of your problems with lack of coolant and overheating so let the first guy diagnose it,


T

2002 Suzuki XL7 Dies after 2200-2500 RPM

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Skibum1976 on 2002 Suzuki XL7 Dies after 2200-2500 RPM

Hey first post on here. I got a 2002 Suzuki xl7 4x4 with 157,0xx miles on it. I started to give the suv a little TLC, in the form of new head gaskets, Valve cover gaskets, cleaned EGR, new battery, and passenger side O2 sensor before catalytic converter. Somewhere along the line I either made a mistake, broke something or something else broke, because after the gaskets and the EGR, the car started up fine and ran good but then after it was warmed up and I was driving, anytime I stepped on the accelerator and the engine rpms went up to 2200, it would kill until the rpms dropped below 2200 and it would kick back on with me doing nothing. then the thermostat went out with the O2 sensor, replaced both and it still is having the same problem. My guess is that I knocked some wires maybe loose. Sometimes it doesn't do it at all and other times it's very consistent. Ive looked and have no idea where to start. No engine codes.

Response From Max_B00st

I agree that it would be easier if you had a way to get to the OEM side of the PCM. Since you might not have the equipment for that, I'll recommend some shade-tree methods of at-least getting you pointed in a direction for diagnosis.

The first thing I would do is, listen for your fuel pump priming. Try to see if it sounds weak. Listen to the intake while you're revving the engine, listen for vacuum leaks. REALLY pay attention to how it sounds when it cuts out (Knocks, pings, solenoids if they are loud enough)
If you notice anything odd sounding, check it out.
Once you've done a thorough visual and audible inspection of the vehicle under the conditions it stalls at, its time to actually start testing components.

For this I recommend:
Basic OBDII scan tool (Or better if you have it).
Fuel pressure testing kit.
Compression testing kit.
Intake vacuum gauge kit.
Cylinder leak-down manifold kit. (You need a small air compressor).
NOID light test kit.

Start with your fuel. Throw your gauge and try to make the vehicle stall with it hooked up. If you can, watch the gauge to see if it's movement is stable and up to spec. If you notice that its all over the place or drops heavily under load. You can assume you have a fuel issue.

Test your vacuum. When I say this, you'll need your OBDII to check MAF and MAP sensor data, to ensure they are actually providing the computer with output. If you can safely say they are atleast functioning, use your vacuum gauge to test vacuum.
Your vacuum should be steady at around 16.5mcGH to 22mcGH. This is the sweet spot for vehicles that have proper and steady vacuum. If it falls below that, you likely have an exhaust obstruction or vacuum leak. if its erratic you probably have a gasket leak, weak or improperly installed valve springs / stem seals.
If you rev your engine and it slowly rises up, thats normal. If it randomly drops and comes back up at idle, its most likely a timing issue.

Test your compression, you should have no less than 100PSI on each cylinder (Some can run on lower compression). Measure all of your cylinders dry and with a squirt of oil. They should not differ by anymore than 20 - 25%.

Once you do that, do a cylinder leak down test if you have the means. I'm not going to explain that in depth. Check out a guy on youtube called "EricTheCarGuy" and find his Cylinder leakdown test video. He explains it in depth and very well.

Other things you can do are, pull the plug wires and perform a performance drop test. If you pull your wires one by one and you notice that one of your wires or more does not effect performance when removed, you might have a coil or distributor issue.

I like to pull sensor plugs off while the vehicle is running to see if they make a difference. If you find that you unplug something like a MAF or MAP sensor and the vehicle continues to run normally, you might want to head in that direction.

This is just a brief methodology of how I would do it. Theres a million things you could do.
I would just do this:

1. Recheck everything without disassembling the engine.
2. Run all tests that you can to the best of your ability.
3. Hope you find something.
4. Come back and let us know how it went so we can continue to guide you in another direction.
5. Either redo EVERYTHING you did again and make 100% you did it right, or take it to the dealer and let them deal with it.

I love Suzuki SUV's
Good luck with it!!!!

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

What was the reason for replacing all those gaskets, especially the head gaskets? There has to be codes or something in the data stream. Generic code reader isn't going to cut it on this vehicle. You need an enhanced scan tool that can get on the manufacture's side of the PCM. There might be manufacture codes stored. Other than that the only thing you can really do is recheck everything thing to did and make sure you didn't miss something or install something incorrectly.

1986 Suzuki Sierra loses power under acceleration

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From Sebastian96 on 1986 Suzuki Sierra loses power under acceleration

I bought a 1986 1.3L Suzuki Sierra last year with 53,000kms on it, besides it overheating when I drove it home due to a leaking radiator the car went relatively well.

Since then I replaced the radiator, bushes under the handles of the transmission shifter handle and the transfer case handle (hopefully that makes sense), new fuel filter, new oil filter, new heater core, had the alternator tested and it's working fine, all new oils.

After doing all that I took the car for a drive and when I got into 3rd/4th/5th gear the car began losing power, engine revs and speed started dropping. I was told I should replace my spark plugs, and I did. After that the car went fine in 3rd/4th/5th however except this time I can push the accelerator down about 90% of the way, if I push it the last 10% the car starts to lose power, if I let it off a little bit to within the 90% it starts accelerating again, foot down the last 10% and it starts to lose power.

I have noticed a spark outside the distributor, and also I rechecked my fuel filter and after taking it for a test drive the fuel filter is really dirty again! I pulled off the fuel pump and I think it looks okay, the only thing worth maybe mentioning was there was a slight mix of fuel and engine oil and the rocker arm was quite hard to push in and out.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

That vehicle is not sold here in the states, so advice is limited.


If the fuel filter keeps clogging up, maybe you should pull the fuel tank and see what is going on in there. You could also have a rubber hose deteriorating. What ever is floating around in the tank could end up in the carburetor, so you may need to go through that too.

Another possibility is a restriction in the exhaust. If this has an O2 sensor you could screw in a back pressure gauge to see if you have excessive back pressure. If it doesn't have an O2 sensor, you might have to weld in a bung or find another way to measure back pressure.

Response From Sebastian96

Well America released the Suzuki Samurai, which is the American equivalent basically. If that helps?

Also is there any simple way of checking the carburetor for signs it may need cleaning, I really want to try and make sure I fix what actually needs fixing because I have seen so many different suggestions, and I could spend a lot of money before finding the issue.

Response From Discretesignals

You did buy an old vehicle that has problems, so your going to be spending money to keep it alive.

You really need to find out why the filter keeps getting trashed. That would be your first priority.

There is an art to overhauling or doing carb work. If you suspect a carb issue, the only way is to take the top off and look in the bowl to see if there is trash in there. You could have clogged air bleeds or mains or any number of issues.
Some carbs have primary and secondaries. If it runs fine on the primary and you gun it and it goes into the secondary and bogs out. That is a sign the carb needs attention or you have a fuel supply issue.

Response From Sebastian96

Okay thanks a lot for the suggestion!

Do you think this would be an appropriate method of going through it?

I was thinking I'll pull the fuel tank out, flush it by just tipping petrol through, replace fuel lines, replace fuel filter, then if I'm still having issues perhaps change fuel pump and then lastly carburetor? also could I put a small filter between pump and carburetor so if I do have the same issue I can avoid getting the carburetor dirty?

Response From Discretesignals

Sure you could install a filter between the pump and carb. I think you have a good plan with pulling the tank and having a look inside.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Fuel in oil too! Could be trouble with lots and must have good clean fuel delivered to a very expensive carb just looking at it gives me a headache and used to redo plenty but not so much the 1/2 and 1/2 with electric controls - better one or the other.


Take a look.........
/
That top plate MUST open wide when warmed up quickly (choke) or it will dump raw fuel all the time and bog out - any would just this is a pita now for any parts if needed and insanely expensive BTW. Like $500US - yikes! Check around if needed in your area for non US specs also.


See if you can find a see thru fuel filter inline between pump and carb or I would for this,


T

Response From Sebastian96

Thanks for the suggestion, I pulled the top cover of the carb off and I pulled the accelerator cable and as I pull it, it slowly opens up and I can see a squirt of petrol enter the carb everytime I pull it, although it does look a little dirty inside my carb I'm not sure if it's enough to cause issues but I could be wrong. Also I noticed my muffler is making a rattling sound when I hit it with my hand, is that normal?


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Carb is dirty so clean that up. I'm worried about the fuel in oil most & problems from that to be ruled out. That alone can ruin the engine and you can stop if so and seek other solutions. If light enough oil or way too full oil would be harmful to a disaster.


That top plate when cold if you just tap accelerator pedal should snap shut but push open by a finger - cold, engine off. You should see that plate open upon start and in a couple minutes stand straight up - it probably doesn't and that will be the problem and other problems because of that to be found.


Muffler? You mean it sounds like it's full of rocks or something inside or possible heat shielding rattle from outside it? Inside baffles can rust all out or catch crap from up ahead of it.


I may be off on the wrong thoughts on this but the oil and fuel mixing has to be checked out. Compression check this engine. Looks of that carb suggests excessive blow-by now possibly from cylinder wash. May have all started with a choke issue and wrecked this engine so check as much as you can to pick plan.


If oil is getting in air intake that's a bad sign for this thing engine wise. You need to know before you attack with wasted work if a lost cause and might not be at all just have to know.........


T

Response From Sebastian96

Yeah well I appreciate the help, I agree. So what do you believe may be the cause for fuel and engine oil to be mixing?

I pulled off the fuel pump and in the head there was a slight mix of oil and fuel, which I've heard is a sign of either a stuffed fuel pump or maybe something in the engine causing it to push oil through the pin that sits against the rocker arm of the fuel pump.

Also, I did an engine compression test approximately 2 weeks ago and I got between 120 - 130 among the 4 of them.

The sound from inside the muffler isn't a metal sound, more along the lines of dirt and maybe a little gravel.

Also this car although being a 1986, has only done 53,000km's.



This is inside the fuel tank, no rust and looked to me little if any dirt, there is a small amount but only due to me accidentally letting some fall in. Which is strange cause after I put a new fuel filter on it, it got probably 10kms before being filled with crap again!



Here is a picture of the muffler, almost looks like its trying to split.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Fuel in oil can happen at the fuel pump itself. It mounts to engine and purposely exposed to oily fumes to lube it and if inside the diaphragm is violated can spit fuel out or into crankcase - mixed and the oil gets so thin it's no longer a lubricant or very good at it. That's a concern.


For compression that seem low so you need to add a squirt of oil (was hoping you'd post before oil squirt and after results) then pressures will no doubt spike up quite a bit as that seals rings to cylinder walls that could be excessively worn in turn blow by and the oil in your intake. Those are horrible signs for an engine. Doesn't take many miles/kms at all.


Muffler is junk and any pipes that go with it. There probably was a heat shield long gone where it's the worst now with straps. I doubt that's the up-front problem with this in general.


I just want you to know realistic engine condition so YOU can decide how far to go with that one or another if need be.


That or maybe some tricks to just get it to run OK for a decent while - that would always be what you expect for what investment in work on it.


Fuel pump again - get rid of that now as it real high on the list of the gas/oil issue and shouldn't be expensive or difficult. New oil and filter once again too if still driving this, or count on it for transportation,


T

2002 suzuki 2.7 xl7 4x4, upstream o2 misbehaving

Showing 6 out of 9 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From puke on 2002 suzuki 2.7 xl7 4x4, upstream o2 misbehaving

This xl7 had intermittently started to stall when braking and coming to a stop. Then it got often enough that I thought a shop could accurately diagnose it.
Took it to a reputable neighborhood shop (over 50 years in business)
They said the throttle body had a massive air leak and needed to be repaired before they could move on with it. I got a second hand throttle body, while informing them I thought the leak had NOTHING at all to do with my symptoms.
Replacement did not change symptoms at all.
Then they said it needed a new MAF, I explained I had just put one in 2 weeks before,..but they insisted. So I went and got a new one on warranty. Replacement did not change the symptoms.
Then they said the same thing again, so I got another new one on warranty. After the 3rd one, they blamed it on not being able to source an oem one. So I went to a wrecking yard and bought one from a wreck. Did not fix it.
I thought MAYBE if I kept at it, they would be emabarrassed enough at being wrong,..that they may actually put a smart guy on it. But after the last MAF, I went and got it and determined I'll have to deal with this myself.

so.,,I put my bluetooth scanner in and watched it on my torgue app. Went through all the stuff I could go through. And...finally found, that the upstream O2 sensors would start to go weird at the same time it would start stalling (would take ten or twenty minutes of driving to get it warm enough to do this).

Am I correct in assuming that if the upstream o2s get weird and no longer oscillate properly..that this is the correct solution. And, I mean, once warm,..they could stay at .6 or .8 for 3 or more seconds. And, even though I'm new at the "graph" part of the newer apps for the obd2 ports.....I did see on a couple maf freeze frame faults (if I even know how to read them correctly),..that the short term fuel trims were way negative 10 or 15 percent. So I think it was trying to compensate for the o2 sensors staying in the top half of the range too long.

Ok,
if you have any idea, please let me know. I no longer think that money is well spent with a professional mechanic.

For the record. when it was acting up...if I could drive it around a keep braking at every corner trying to make it stall. It would through a MAF code. But when I test the MAF,..it doesn't seem that weirdish...as far as voltage at the signal wire (it's been quite a few weeks).

Suzuki is out of business, so I've gotten parts at autozone or a wrecking yard.

Response From Discretesignals

I would find it unusual that both O2 sensors are the culprit because they are acting the same during your problem. You are probably just seeing them responding to some other issue.

Is this storing any trouble codes?

Diagnosing drive ability problems and interpreting scan tool data correctly takes lots of hours of training and experience. You have to also consider the equipment you are using. That data your receiving is not real time data. I wouldn't solely rely on a graphed scan tool O2 sensor voltages. Not unusual to see short term fuel trims do that either.

Response From kev2 Top Rated Answer

post all codes-
while doing that - this is an automatic? the 'stall'* happens when braking SO try shifting to N see if things smooth's out.
The vehicle is STOCK - no BS aftermarket that is so problematic. On that subject parts should come from Suzuki not junk yards or autozone...
What are the LTFT's and the STFT's -you said 10% but did not say LT or ST,


*I am reading this as all is ok UNTIL braking, starts the chain of stall events. Am I correct?

Response From puke

In answer to your questions.
It is an automatic 4x4 totally stock. (suzuki is out of business here)
Shifting into Neutral does NOT change symptoms.
If I put it in REVERSE and heavily accelerate (once warmed up),..it will also cut out like it is trying to stall. This probably eliminates brakes as a factor, I believe. I was thinking it was an intermittent elec. connector affected by the force of heavy braking or accelerating in reverse. But now not so sure. Also, if I am idling, it will quit every once in a while. Starts right back up,..but it will die right out of the blue like someone just shut it off.

The long terms and short terms float very close to zero (especially the long terms)....except the few freeze frames I've gathered where the short terms were both identicle and between ten and fifteen percent. I gathered these freeze frames when I was driving around doing heavy braking over and over, making it stall....and it would finally throw an MAF circuit low inp. code. Has also thrown a couple MAF circuit input HIGH codes at the same time.,

The real time data confirms that when the car gets warmed up enough to misbehave...the upstream o2 sensors both get weird.. THey switch between low and high quite nicely until it has been running for about 15 or 20 minutes...then they get very slow and erratic....and tend to stay on the high side.

I had thought there was a TINY chance that the fuel pump's windings were going open intermittently (due to the problem happening during inertia....sometimes elec. motors act that way when they are failing)...So I installed a new bosch fuel pump assy. 3 weeks ago to make sure that was not the problem.

Yes, it is "braking" that will start the stall. Once it is very good and warm. Heavy braking will stall it on every stop...and sometimes light braking will also. Other than that,.. it has jerked a couple times at a low speed (like 10 or 15 mph) but the jerking doesn't show up much. The jerking "is" reminiscent of a faulty MAF. 5 MAF's in a month, 2 of them being factory,.. I am thinking not MAF. TPS is factory, I pulled the EGR and it was very clean,..I cleaned it anyway and put it back. A smoke test was done by the shop that did not ever find the problem.

One more thing I forgot,..I did unplug the MAF and ran it that way for a few days,.. It did behave better with the MAF unplugged....the stalling when braking problem would go go away (but it would idle too high...like 1200 or so rpms). But it would still jerk every now and then at low speeds... and would stall while idling now and then. I certainly can't run it that way due to smog checks.

I do appreciate your input,

Response From Discretesignals

.and it would finally throw an MAF circuit low inp. code. Has also thrown a couple MAF circuit input HIGH codes at the same time.


Have you tried wiggling harnesses under the hood to see if you can induce the problem while the engine was idling?

P0102 is low MAF input and P0103 is high MAF input. Both of those codes are circuit codes which means it is either a wiring, connector, MAF, or PCM issue causing that. The MAF is also powered by the main relay, so if for some reason it looses power or its ground that code can set. A MAF input circuit glitching can cause a stall.


The MAF sensor outputs between 0.6-4.90 volts depending on the amount of air flowing through it. If the voltage range gets below 0.6v or higher than 4.90 volts, the PCM is going to think there is a problem with the circuit. That might be why your mechanic was focusing on the MAF because they saw an issue with it, but didn't really try to figure out exactly why it was happening. Sometimes it takes lots of detective work and some fancy equipment to isolate the issue. I will admit that some mechanics don't have the knowledge of troubleshooting computer circuits efficiently and resort to replacing things to see if it fixes the issue.

If you have a digital storage labscope, you can tap into the MAF input signal at the PCM and monitor it while your driving to see if you have a glitch as the problem occurs. That will definitely let you know to focus on the MAF circuits.

Seeing how this stall is induced only when braking, you really should focus on wiring harnesses and connection problems. A harness could be shifting around and contacting something or a bad connection moves the right way and causes a circuit issue. Spend some time and do a really good visual inspection of the wiring under the hood. Also try the wiggle test and see what happens. Wiggle the harness and wiring the way you would think it would move as when the vehicle is braking.


This is an example of an analog MAF's voltage output waveform during a throttle snap. Notice the voltage is linear just as you would see from a throttle position sensor. The voltage is directly proportional to the amount of air flowing through the sensor. You would not want to see the voltage below or above the .6-4.9 volt threshold at anytime with the engine running. If there is a glitch, you will be able to see it with a lab scope because the lab scope does not average the voltage measurement due to its high sample rate and its ability to draw a graphical representation of the voltage input much much faster than any scan tool's graphical representation.


Response From puke

Unfortunately, I do not have a scope of that caliber. I had a tektronics o-scope and gave it to my nephew 2 yrs. ago. Not sure I would even remember how to use it if I asked him to borrow it. It has been over 20 years since I've used it. Maybe 25. It may not even work for what we need to see.

Could there be another reason that the o2's sensors get weird after a few minutes of warming up?...I mean,..other than faulty o2s? I did read that when they fail, they usually fail on the high side,..rather than the low. ..And that's what mine are doing.
thank you so much

Response From kev2

As there are NO CODE numbers to post, you are correct it is the o2 sensors.
The people at the parts stores are correct.

Response From kev2

Is the CEL ON AND are there any codes? or did I miss them?
I was thinking a trans issue, but you say N does not change the stumbling....ie a TCC solenoid issue.
do you see any change in map when applying brakes? looking any direction to help check out this issue.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

All this about braking directly related to stalling check for hose leaking, check valve and booster leaks.
When you remove the check valve from booster (try not to break it) it should go 'whoooosh' sucking in air showing it holds vacuum with engine off as it should. In fact if you don't feel power assist once or twice with engine off that would be high on the list of reasons,


T