802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your O2 Sensor

Choose a Year for your Nissan Altima 's O2 Sensor

  • 2018
  • 2017
  • 2016
  • 2015
  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007
  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003
  • 2002
  • 2001
  • 2000
  • 1999
  • 1998
  • 1997
  • 1996
  • 1995
  • 1994
  • 1993
Show More Years

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Bosch
    Bosch
  • Delphi
    Delphi
  • Denso
    Denso
  • NGK
    NGK
  • Spectra
    Spectra
  • Walker
    Walker

Shop By Related Oxygen Sensor Parts

Shop below for all Oxygen Sensor related parts for your Nissan Altima


Shop for Top Selling Genuine Nissan Altima O2 Sensors

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Walker, Bosch, Delphi, Denso
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Nissan Altima Replacement O2 Sensor Parts

We also have O2 Sensor parts for other Nissan models, including 300ZX, 350Z, 370Z, Altima, Armada, D21, Frontier, Maxima, Murano, Pathfinder, Pickup, Quest, Rogue, Sentra, Titan, Versa, Versa Note, Xterra.

Walker
2006 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor - Upstream Rear 6 Cyl 3.5L Walker - Walker OE

P311-354AFE9    250-25005  New

Qty:
$88.69
Walker Oxygen Sensor  Upstream Rear
  • Walker Products 250-25005 Oxygen Sensor 5-W Wideband
  • Walker OE
  • Product Attributes:
    • CA_Prop65_Nickel: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals, Including Nickel And Nickel Alloyed Stainless Steel, Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Connector Shape: Radiused Polygon
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Overall Length: 24.72
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 18.0
    • Wire Gauge Measurement: 20
    • Wire Quantity: 5
    • Wiring Harness Length: 21.18
  • Walker Products Engine Management and Oxygen/Air-Fuel sensors have been engineered and developed to be an Original Equipment Manufacturers replacement for many vehicles worldwide. Every part number is manufactured for the specific application, fitment position on the vehicle, and will provide the relevant diagnostic system feedback as required by the ECU.Newer vehicles will store fault codes in the ECU, some will relate to the affected sensor and its associated systems. A failed sensor might make itself known by causing the engine to run poorly, increase fuel consumption, exhaust emissions, or illuminating a (MIL) malfunction indicator light. The sensor, wiring harness, and connector should also be checked for physical damage. This will most likely also cause their operational life to be shortened.We are an Automotive ISO9001/TS 16949 certified company, with un-paralleled customer service, marketing, and shipping. Our electronic and paper catalogs are designed for today’s fast paced marketplace, along with our eye catching packaging. Since 1946, Walker Products has been the number one choice for the engine management sensors and fuel system components needed for your vehicle.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Walker
Position: Upstream Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Aspiration Fuel Type Fuel Delivery Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Nissan Altima VQ35DE Naturally Aspirated GAS FI Upstream Rear V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
Walker
2006 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor - Upstream Front 6 Cyl 3.5L Walker - Walker OE

P311-354AFE9    250-25005  New

Qty:
$88.69
Walker Oxygen Sensor  Upstream Front
  • Walker Products 250-25005 Oxygen Sensor 5-W Wideband
  • Walker OE
  • Product Attributes:
    • CA_Prop65_Nickel: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Chemicals, Including Nickel And Nickel Alloyed Stainless Steel, Which Are Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Connector Shape: Radiused Polygon
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Overall Length: 24.72
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 18.0
    • Wire Gauge Measurement: 20
    • Wire Quantity: 5
    • Wiring Harness Length: 21.18
  • Walker Products Engine Management and Oxygen/Air-Fuel sensors have been engineered and developed to be an Original Equipment Manufacturers replacement for many vehicles worldwide. Every part number is manufactured for the specific application, fitment position on the vehicle, and will provide the relevant diagnostic system feedback as required by the ECU.Newer vehicles will store fault codes in the ECU, some will relate to the affected sensor and its associated systems. A failed sensor might make itself known by causing the engine to run poorly, increase fuel consumption, exhaust emissions, or illuminating a (MIL) malfunction indicator light. The sensor, wiring harness, and connector should also be checked for physical damage. This will most likely also cause their operational life to be shortened.We are an Automotive ISO9001/TS 16949 certified company, with un-paralleled customer service, marketing, and shipping. Our electronic and paper catalogs are designed for today’s fast paced marketplace, along with our eye catching packaging. Since 1946, Walker Products has been the number one choice for the engine management sensors and fuel system components needed for your vehicle.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Walker
Position: Upstream Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Aspiration Fuel Type Fuel Delivery Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Nissan Altima VQ35DE Naturally Aspirated GAS FI Upstream Front V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
Bosch
Qty:
$56.09
Bosch Oxygen Sensor  Downstream
  • Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • Universal Oxygen Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automotive Item Weight (lbs): 0.339512 Lb
    • Connector Shape: None
    • Heated (Oxygen Sensor): Yes
    • Hex Size (Oxygen Sensor): 22 Mm
    • Length (Sealing Surface To End Of Connector): 24.92 In
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Oxygen Sensor Type: Narrow-band Heated
    • Prop 65 Warning Label Required?: No
    • Thread Diameter: 18
    • Wire Quantity: 4
  • Bosch is the world’s leading supplier and original equipment manufacturer of Oxygen Sensors. Bosch invented the automotive oxygen sensor and leads the way in sensor technology and innovation. From overall sensor design to the critical ceramic element, Bosch is known worldwide for quality and performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Position: Downstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Nissan Altima Downstream L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488
Delphi
2003 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor - Rear 4 Cyl 2.5L Delphi

P311-4089618    ES20161  New

2344312 , 5S4297 , SU6372 , OS2139 , 226A0AR210 , 226A08J010 , 2344309 , 226A0AM601 , 5S4416 , 24408 , 5S6315 , 234-4313 , 226A0-EA210 , 156-4320 , 25024403 , REA1836 , 1564320 , REA1781 , OS2347 , 5S4524 , 250-24403 , 15518 , 13897 , OS2530 , SU7826 , 234-4309 , SU6577 , 2344307 , 156-4354 , 226A0-AR210 , 24407 , SG1693 , SG1403 , 226A0-8J010 , OS2236 , 24247 , 226A0EA210 , 15521 , 2344313 , SG1514 , SG1306 , SU6868 , 234-4312 , 226A0-AM601 , 1564354 , 15522

Qty:
$70.37
Delphi Oxygen Sensor  Rear
  • Oxygen Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Shape: Square
    • Overall Length: 480.0
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Wire Quantity: 4
  • OE connectors and wire lengths within 3 inches of OE specifications; Unique sensor coatings to resist contamination; Long lasting reliable operation
Brand: Delphi
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Engine Designation Aspiration Fuel Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Nissan Altima Base QR25DE Naturally Aspirated GAS Rear L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488
Delphi
2006 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor - Center 6 Cyl 3.5L Delphi

P311-4089618    ES20161  New

2344312 , 5S4297 , SU6372 , OS2139 , 226A0AR210 , 226A08J010 , 2344309 , 226A0AM601 , 5S4416 , 24408 , 5S6315 , 234-4313 , 226A0-EA210 , 156-4320 , 25024403 , REA1836 , 1564320 , REA1781 , OS2347 , 5S4524 , 250-24403 , 15518 , 13897 , OS2530 , SU7826 , 234-4309 , SU6577 , 2344307 , 156-4354 , 226A0-AR210 , 24407 , SG1693 , SG1403 , 226A0-8J010 , OS2236 , 24247 , 226A0EA210 , 15521 , 2344313 , SG1514 , SG1306 , SU6868 , 234-4312 , 226A0-AM601 , 1564354 , 15522

Qty:
$70.37
Delphi Oxygen Sensor  Center
  • Oxygen Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • Connector Shape: Square
    • Overall Length: 480.0
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Wire Quantity: 4
  • OE connectors and wire lengths within 3 inches of OE specifications; Unique sensor coatings to resist contamination; Long lasting reliable operation
Brand: Delphi
Position: Center
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Engine Designation Aspiration Fuel Type Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Nissan Altima SE VQ35DE Naturally Aspirated GAS Center V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
Denso
2006 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor - Downstream 6 Cyl 3.5L Denso - Universal

P311-1B9634D    234-4210  New

Qty:
$44.95
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Downstream
  • Oxygen Sensor 4 Wire, Universal, Heated, Wire Length: 11.77
  • ; O.E. Quality Universal Replacement Sensor
  • Universal
  • Product Attributes:
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 0.708
    • Wire Quantity: 4
    • Wiring Harness Length: 11.77
  • DENSO Oxygen Sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Position: Downstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Nissan Altima Downstream V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
Denso
2006 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor - Downstream 4 Cyl 2.5L Denso - Universal

P311-1B9634D    234-4210  New

Qty:
$44.95
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Downstream
  • Oxygen Sensor 4 Wire, Universal, Heated, Wire Length: 11.77
  • ; O.E. Quality Universal Replacement Sensor
  • Universal
  • Product Attributes:
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 0.708
    • Wire Quantity: 4
    • Wiring Harness Length: 11.77
  • DENSO Oxygen Sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Position: Downstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Nissan Altima Downstream L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488
Denso
1995 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor - Downstream 4 Cyl 2.4L Denso - OE Style

P311-370B643    234-3123  New

213-1303 , 213-1305 , ES10387 , 24024 , 13783 , 226A040U62 , SG438 , OS697 , 75-3221 , 75-2806 , 13848 , 24075 , 226A078J61

Qty:
$68.46
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Downstream
  • Oxygen Sensor 3 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 18.9
  • ; O.E. Quality Replacement Sensor
  • OE Style
  • Product Attributes:
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 0.472
    • Wire Quantity: 3
    • Wiring Harness Length: 18.90
  • DENSO Oxygen Sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Position: Downstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1995 - Nissan Altima Downstream L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2389
Denso
1996 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor - Downstream 4 Cyl 2.4L Denso - OE Style

P311-370B643    234-3123  New

213-1303 , 213-1305 , ES10387 , 24024 , 13783 , 226A040U62 , SG438 , OS697 , 75-3221 , 75-2806 , 13848 , 24075 , 226A078J61

Qty:
$68.46
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Downstream
  • Oxygen Sensor 3 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 18.9
  • ; To 02/96; Excludes Calif. O.E. Quality Replacement Sensor
  • OE Style
  • Product Attributes:
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 0.472
    • Wire Quantity: 3
    • Wiring Harness Length: 18.90
  • DENSO Oxygen Sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Position: Downstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Nissan Altima Downstream L 4 Cyl 2.4L 146 2400
Denso
2000 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor - Downstream 4 Cyl 2.4L Denso - OE Style

P311-0C04C06    234-4778  New

SG965 , 226A04M812 , OS2142 , 24638 , ES20216 , 226A00Z802 , OS1719 , 213-3038 , 75-2702 , SG1309 , 15963

Qty:
$59.74
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Downstream
  • Oxygen Sensor 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 11.42
  • ; O.E. Quality Replacement Sensor
  • OE Style
  • Product Attributes:
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 0.708
    • Wire Quantity: 4
    • Wiring Harness Length: 11.42
  • DENSO Oxygen Sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Position: Downstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Nissan Altima Downstream L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2389
Denso
2001 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor - Downstream 4 Cyl 2.4L Denso - OE Style

P311-0C04C06    234-4778  New

SG965 , 226A04M812 , OS2142 , 24638 , ES20216 , 226A00Z802 , OS1719 , 213-3038 , 75-2702 , SG1309 , 15963

Qty:
$59.74
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Downstream
  • Oxygen Sensor 4 Wire, Direct Fit, Heated, Wire Length: 11.42
  • ; To 12/00 O.E. Quality Replacement Sensor
  • OE Style
  • Product Attributes:
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 0.708
    • Wire Quantity: 4
    • Wiring Harness Length: 11.42
  • DENSO Oxygen Sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Position: Downstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2001 - Nissan Altima Downstream L 4 Cyl 2.4L - 2389
Denso
2004 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor - Downstream 6 Cyl 3.5L Denso - Universal

P311-1B9634D    234-4210  New

Qty:
$44.95
Denso Oxygen Sensor  Downstream
  • Oxygen Sensor 4 Wire, Universal, Heated, Wire Length: 11.77
  • ; From 01/04 O.E. Quality Universal Replacement Sensor
  • Universal
  • Product Attributes:
    • Mounting Type: Threaded
    • Sensor Type: Heated
    • Thread Diameter: 0.708
    • Wire Quantity: 4
    • Wiring Harness Length: 11.77
  • DENSO Oxygen Sensors are manufactured and tested to the strictest OE standards for unparalleled peformance; Each component is precision built for exact replacement, and a first time fit; This innovative line features DENSO's exclusive aluminum oxide trap layer, designed to protect the ceramic element from silicone and lead posining for improved engine performance, greater fuel efficiency, and unparalleled longevity; DENSO gives you the right part and the right fit, the first time.
Brand: Denso
Position: Downstream
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Nissan Altima Downstream V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3498
Bosch
2001 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor Bosch

P311-5E5E830    W0133-1722838  New

Qty:
$96.35
Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • OE Connector
  • ; Production: -07/31/2001, At Catalyst Outlet
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2001 - Nissan Altima To:07-31-01
Bosch
2001 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor Bosch - Left (NLA 3/17)

P311-5E5E830    W0133-1722838  New

Qty:
$96.35
Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • OE Connector
  • ; Production: -07/31/2001, At Catalyst Outlet
  • Left Side
  • Left (NLA 3/17)
  • OE Type After Catalst
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2001 - Nissan Altima To:07-31-01
Bosch
2000 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor Bosch

P311-5E5E830    W0133-1722838  New

Qty:
$96.35
Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • OE Connector
  • ; Production: 12/01/2000-, At Catalyst Outlet
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2000 - Nissan Altima Fr:12-01-00
Bosch
2000 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor Bosch - Left (NLA 3/17)

P311-5E5E830    W0133-1722838  New

Qty:
$96.35
Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • OE Connector
  • ; Production: 12/01/2000-, At Catalyst Outlet
  • Left (NLA 3/17)
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2000 - Nissan Altima Fr:12-01-00
Bosch
2006 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor 4 Cyl 2.5L Bosch

P311-103C09C    W0133-1723138  New

Qty:
$145.31
Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • OE Connector
  • ; At Exhaust Manifold Outlet
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Nissan Altima L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488
Bosch
2006 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor 4 Cyl 2.5L Bosch

P311-103C09C    W0133-1723138  New

Qty:
$145.31
Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • OE Connector
  • ; At Exhaust Manifold Outlet
  • OE Type BEFORE Catalyst
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Nissan Altima L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488
Bosch
2003 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor 4 Cyl 2.5L Bosch

P311-103C09C    W0133-1723138  New

Qty:
$145.31
Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • OE Connector
  • ; Production: 09/01/2003-, At Exhaust Manifold Outlet
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2003 - Nissan Altima L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488 Fr:09-01-03
Bosch
2003 Nissan Altima Oxygen Sensor 4 Cyl 2.5L Bosch

P311-103C09C    W0133-1723138  New

Qty:
$145.31
Bosch Oxygen Sensor
  • OE Connector
  • ; Production: 09/01/2003-, At Exhaust Manifold Outlet
  • OE Type BEFORE Catalyst
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2003 - Nissan Altima L 4 Cyl 2.5L 152 2488 Fr:09-01-03

Latest Nissan Altima Repair and O2 Sensor Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

95 nissan altima gxe

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From aardvark on 95 nissan altima gxe

i was told this car also needs a new oxygen sensor. can i replace this myself?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Anything in exhaust system will be tricky and a O2 sensor is no exception, T

Ps: Corrosion and time can make any of this a pill

2002 Nissan altima 2.5 sometimes smokes alot

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From lucio santiago on 2002 Nissan altima 2.5 sometimes smokes alot

Hello i have Nissan Altima 2002 2.5 and sometimes blue smoke comes out and sometimes its fine and the engine does not have any noise and i would like to know if this can be a simple fixing or a big problem a guy told me that probably the oxygen sensor needed to be changed but i don't know if that's true Thank You very much and i hope to hear soon from you

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Really don't think an o2 sensor will solve your smoke problem. Blue smoke usually indicates that the engine is burning oil. This could be from piston rings, valve guide seals, or PCV system issues.

Check your spark plugs and see if you can tell which cylinder(s) is burning oil.

Response From lucio santiago

OK i'm going to check the spark plugs again the last time i checked them they were fine they were clean and i don't see anything wrong with the spark plugs but i'm going to check or do you think i would have to use any additive

Response From Discretesignals

Just a heads up:



They thought is would be good to have the catalyst attached to the exhaust manifold up close to the engine because it would heat up the catalyst quicker. The downside of that design is if the catalyst started coming apart, the exhaust pulsation during valve overlap would suck the crap,which acts like sandpaper, right up into the cylinders. The engine would eventually burn excessive oil and even have low compression in some cases. I've seen it happen on a 3.5L Pathfinder. Avoid the exhaust manifold baby cats in my opinion if your looking for a car. If this is the case with your vehicle, it needs an engine and cat.

naughty altima

Showing 3 out of 15 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on naughty altima

This is what happens when I stop my 2001 altima (86000 miles) on the red light. The car starts to shake, RPM gauge goes 500-800-700-600…up and down, up and down…when I switch on AC and the RPM goes above 800 the shaking stops ….? The check engine light is off. I checked the spark plags already, they are ok. Went to Autozone and have it tested for codes, it passed without any codes being active…any idea ? dirty fuel injector ?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Check for vacuum leaks and the integrity of the air filter and the housings along the way to be tight and no cracks found. You might have luck cleaning throttle body too,

T

Response From Guest

i am sorry but I am not following ? how can dirty air filter and cracked air filter hoses cause my engine to choke ?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: In the absence of any codes right now I was hoping for something simple. With the idle flutuating as is does it seems to be getting some wrong info as to the load on it to stay at a steady idle. Much of that is measures air flow, and speed of air which will make other computer adjustments to allow a stead idle. When you put the A/C on it knows there's going to be a load and picks a higher idle speed which seems to overcome what could be minor flaws in just the way the housing that holds the air filter and the parts involved with snorkeling air in to the throttle body. If there's mis information there the car gets confused.

Any leaks can cause problems. Basic vacuum hose is used and info is constantly being read and adjustment made to run perfectly.

I'm only guessing at some possiblities out of many. You may get lucky and find something not right, unhooked or something. Air filter alone even if dirty wouldn't just be allright with the A/C request. Cleaning the throttle body is just to rule out that while you may be there looking. Throttle body is metal - not a filter.

Being sensitive as you described until a load on it suggests intake and vacuum items MAY be the cause. Chances are if you held the idle up with gas pedal, brake on, in gear (use judgment please) to the 800 rpm it would smooth out also.

Just some ideas before it needs more help and diagnosing to figure it out. Also just a gut feeling this isn't dirty fuel or injector related because it seems to straighten right out with a small load,

T

Response From Guest

thanks so much !

Response From Guest


Thanks to your suggestion I have found 1 hose (in red) hanging lose. A guy at the gas station told me the hose should be connected to that round object - circled in red (forgive me my ignorance). Well.. The shaking is not so severe as it used to have been …however the problem still persists ….you think I should tighten the hose with some clamp ?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Was that the larger hose to the black thing or a hose to the diaphragm where your red line is? I just couldn't see what was what too well. If a clamp was used I'd use one again. You can also try spraying something like carb cleaner at suspect leak areas and if idle changes that isn't right and there's still a leak. Careful doing that near hot engine parts if you try that,

T

Response From Guest


I opened throttle body (disconnected ait intake)… and it was clean like new after 85k miles…amazing ...


So anyways after weeks of deliberation I finally decided to make that formidable step and spend $45 and have my car diagnosed. The computer spit out 2 codes :
1. multiple cylinder misfires - I plan to replace spark plags, cables. The mechanic told me the cap and the thing inside is ok
2. oxygen sensor - and here is my dilemma :

1st option : There are oxygen sensors available for as much as $20 on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OXYGEN-SENSOR-nissan-ALTIMA-93-06-05-04-03-02-01-00-99_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ42610QQihZ015QQitemZ250266487859QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
However they come with no connector so I would need to cut and splice the cables myself. If the connector is the problem, then I will need need to buy the connector …do you think that the connector might be the problem ? Is it easy to cut and splice those cables and hook up existing connector ? Do you want to go : new sensor/old connector ?

2nd option is to buy an oxygen sensor for $110 with the connector and then it is an easy plag and play.

So interesting …oxygen sensor with no connector = $20 …oxygen sensor with connector $110…is it so labour intensive to put the connector on the top of those cables ???


What do you recommend ? Thanks so much for your great help

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just a note on O2 sensors. I don't know if all will splice in and work properly. Some are heated and reports from tech friends here still in biz (I'm not) is that cheap stuff comes back too much. Your call of course. Also know that IMO that short of wires and corrosion problems I think most O2 sensors are killed and not just failed by them selved and the upstream problem if not solved will wreck replacements.

I'd certainly do the tune-up items and have those ruled out. "multiple misfires" is a vague diagnosis so far as to what's causing it.......

T

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

i searched a little more and it seems that leaking intake manifold gasket is usually a problem in altimas ca. 80-100k miles ...i replaced o2 sensor, did tune up (new spar plags, wires, cap and rotor) did not help. is there a way to check where I might have an air leak .. like some kind of spray to spray in air intake and see where it comes out ..maybe it is some hose .. when the engine is idling i hear sometinh like air leak .ssssssss ..getting ready to spend > $300...;-(

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hearing a hissssss does sound like a vacuum leak and gaskets can leak as well as hose or whatever is holding vacuum. When they are not apparent easily I favor (*caution - fire hazard) spraying carb cleaner while at idle at suspect areas while listening and observing idle. When a leak is found idle may improve or get worse for a moment and or change sound of a hiss.

*Use care to do that with cooler engine and not directly on hot exhaust parts and be prepared.....

T

Response From Guest

do you think that the only way to repair leaking intake manifold gasket is to replace it ? this is a labour intensive thing and costs upward from $400...
how about RTV the hell of it would that help ? ...they checked the pressure on my engine and it goes down on idle ..

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If you could pin point a limited area of accessable intake gasket flaw (this time you could use motor oil in a squirt can and watch it suck in) then perhaps you could fake it with a small bead of high temp RTV. The last thing you need is RTV sucking into the engine and then fixing it right will look cheap!

T

Response From Guest

Hi,
Was wondering if this issue was ever solved. I also have a 2001 Altima with 156,000 miles. I have experienced the same problem. I replaced Cap, Rotor, Air filter, Fuel Filter, Plugs, wires. No change after warm up. The car runs great except for idle. I just found a hissing noise coming from a diaphram thingy with a vaccuum hose attached to it. After running my fingers up under it to see if I could hear the leak change, I realized that one of the diaphrams was open on the bottom and I was able to actuate the diaphram by pushing up under it which made the car want to stall.
I've never had any problems with this car and would drive it on a 1,500 mile trip tomorrow because the reliability of the car is that good. I don't know the name of the part and am going to just take it off and take it to auto zone and tell them I need to replace that piece. Will get back with results.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Sounds like you are referring to an EGR valve. Once removed, check to see if a piece of carbon is holding the pintle open. That would create a major vacuum leak.

2006 Nissan Altima S 2.5 Wobbly/Jerking

Showing 6 out of 7 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From g121390 on 2006 Nissan Altima S 2.5 Wobbly/Jerking

I have a 2006 Nissan Altima S with a 2.5 liter engine.
What's been happening recently (maybe a couple weeks) is that my car jerks or sways from side to side everytime I accelerate and brake. It used to be if I was on a hard road or worse if there was a break in the road like the freeway (you know like the lane has a crack from repair for a few miles) but now its on flat surfaces and regular streets, I can feel the car jerk from side to side even if I'm just cruising and Im pretty comfy with speed but its a little scary since it feels like my tire is about to spin off the car or i'm going to lose control. The only thing that was touched within the last week and a half were my front brakes. My dad replaced them and he's been doing this for as long as I can remember so I dont think he would do it wrong plus he knows his way around an engine or two but since I know this can happen due to many suspension components I figured I'd ask. Also about two months ago I installed a new engine because my original one failed due to the catalytic converter:
FYI:
I just looked under the car and the control arm bushing is torn but Ive had a control arm bushing down to bits and pieces before and it never did any of what I feel now, its only the front end where I feel it.
Also my whole front suspension system is not even 6 months old, before my engine failed I had started replacing the old parts, after the new engine was in, I finished up the rest.
here's a list of all the parts I replaced both Suspension and Non Suspension
Rancho front struts
KYB rear shocks
New Lower Control Arms (both)
outer tie rod ends (both)
strut mounts
rack and pinion
axles
engine mounts
sway bar
brakes
flywheel
serpentine belt
O2 sensor (upstream/downstream) / Knock Sensor
bearing's
rear camber arm
and of course The Engine

I should have a new car so whats going on now???
I push gas jerks to left, I push brake I jerk right, I push nothing and cruise and it jerks left/right randomly.

The pics are from what I saw under my car, where is that from?
Thanks in advance for any help



Response From Hammer Time

I believe the "J" shaped hose is just a vent and doesn't go to anything.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Wow - what a list of stuff replaced up to the whole engine! Suspension, steering parts up the kazoo also. Seems more like this poor thing is being so abused you'll never win,


T

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

It probably wasn't abuse on the OPs part. Pretty common to see or read about the engines on those getting sandblasted because the manifold catalyst came apart and got sucked up into the engine. I would never buy anything with a catalyst that close to the engine.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Not blaming OP and sorry about that if all these problems were not neglect/abuse. There are zillions of these around me and haven't so much as touched one to put a fingerprint on any so can't know the layout and converter's spot in this game. I simply don't hear of wild problems with these cars with design flaws or plain cheap.


Hey - roads local to me really suk big time. Wild defects left for days without fixing or patching and car killers. Some of that is a surprise and some you know to crawl along so slow you don't wreck your vehicle.


If that's the case I really don't know of a vehicle that can take that long term without constant problems, Tom

Response From Discretesignals

They are good cars and the engine themselves are reliable, but the design of the catalyst to warm up faster to reduce emission quicker is what is taking the reliability factor and putting it down the toilet. Few months back we had a Nissan Pathfinder with a 4.0L come in with low engine power. Pre manifold cats came apart and clogged up the secondaries. We replaced the cats and the engine now blows smoke rings.

If you get a customer that drives around with a misfire on one of these that melts the pre cat, it is probably going to start burning oil. If that was my car, I'd fix what was broke and sell it. Then get something like a Honda or Toyota with a catalyst that isn't so close to the engine.


Response From GC

Control arm bushing wear can cause opposite pulls when accelerating/braking. If you can get any movement out of the control arm, its too much.

The pics look like grease thrown from the cv joint to me.

Im clueless on the pic of the vac lines?

2002 nissan 2.5 se overheat

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From dannypo on 2002 nissan 2.5 se overheat

i have a 2002 nissan altima 2.5 se that has overheating problems. when i am on the road for an hour or so and doing above 60 mph with the a.c. on, the engine temp climbs and the a.c. starts blowing warm air. if i slow down to below 60 mph the engine cools down and the a.c. will blow cold air again. both cooling fans are operating and i have had the ssystem flushed and a new thermostat and control switch replaced to no avail. any ideas. this only occurs in the summer, of course.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Wow - a challenge! Ok - this is interesting as the A/C quits as the engine creaps up in temp at only highway speeds. One would think the airflow would be more than adequate even without fans.

Funny thing about air and the force it has. Forces of air at speed are "exponential" meaning the force triples with each doubling of velocity and aerodynamics come into play at speeds over say 50ish.

With that there's an airflow problem which could be a missing air dam under front bumper. The design is such that air makes a vacuum behind those which directs air of motion thru grille. If there's pressure under the bumper it could try to push back out the grille in a little battle of who wins. Don't know what this car uses exactly but those things get broken off on those cement parking things all the time and they are there for a reason. If that's missing or any shrouding around the fans it needs to be as originally intended. If you have a bug "bra" or one of those - try removing it.

Check that fans are pulling air thru the grille towards the engine just at idle. If that's backwards somehow it probably would still cool backwards until air speed and fans had a little dispute over who was boss and the effect might be like cardboard was covering your condenser and radiator?? Dunno - this is a good one!

The A/C part makes this interesting because designs have it that A/C gets first crack at cooling the condenser and the hell with the engine - most engines would still cool YOU while the thing was boiling over but if just so there could be "radiant" heat not allowing the condenser to cool and thus no A/C.

Check above things and note basic cleanliness of rad and cond for bugs, any dirt, plastic bag get up there - whatever.

If nothing wrong is noted, does just shutting off the A/C make engine temp come down?

T

Response From hermesco Top Rated Answer

Any luck figuring out this problem? I'm having a very similar problem with my '02 Nissan Altima 2.5 SE with 84k mi. Some additional details I can provide are that the temperature gauge rises quickly (1-2 miles after starting) to and then hovers around the mid-point. When I start climbing a hill, the gauge rises up to the 90% level, depending upon the steepness of the grade. The AC cuts out at about the 75% level. Going down the other side of the hill, the gauge returns to the mid-point just about as quickly as it rose and the AC cuts back in at about the 70% level. The cooling/AC fans run most of the time, so I know they're working hard trying to cool things down. The engine temperature doesn't return as quickly on hotter days (> 85 deg.) and the overheating happens with and without the AC on (just more quickly with the additional AC load).

When this first started happening, I checked the coolant level. It was low, so I added about a quart or more of anti-freeze/water mix. Same problem heating quickly and overheating the following day. The coolant level is down another quart after ~500 mi. I've not seen any obvious signs of coolant leaks either on the garage floor, in the exhaust or in the oil. Oil level hasn't changed, so I'm thinking/hoping it's not a problem with the head gasket. So I'm not sure if the coolant loss is the cause or a symptom of the overheating problem.

Since the "Service Engine Soon" light is also on (constantly, not intermittently), and since I've been getting 10-20% better gas mileage (34-35 mpg highway instead of 29-30), I assumed that the problem was a bad O2 sensor causing the engine to run lean and hotter. However, when I took the car to AutoZone to check the codes, it only came up with P0217 - "Engine Overheat Condition". There were no O2 Sensor related codes listed, so I don't which sensor is bad. Replacing one sensor wouldn't be bad, but I'm not sure I want to replace both on a just a hunch.

The radiator seems OK - some bent fins, but not too many, and the fans are moving air to the engine. I don't see a black air dam, but don't recall if there ever was one or not. The problem also occurs in heavy in-town driving on hot days as well, when the car isn't moving that fast when an air dam wouldn't make much difference.

I'm stumped, so am open to any additional ideas.

Don

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You say the fans run "most" of the time. If it's showing hot they should be on all the time and if not sensors may not be providing accurate info to them. Shutting down when hot is no doubt a fail safe mode.

Verify radiator is free and clear to exchange heat - flush as needed note what comes out as the whole system may be a bit dirty??

T

Response From hermesco

The fans run when the engine heats up to about 40% and above on the coolant temperature gauge - below that the fans do not run.

Last weekend I drained and removed the radiator and the coolant was clean. My coolant tester showed freeze protection to -20 & boil-over protection to 262 deg F. I then removed the radiator and cleaned the fins with water from the household hose/nozzle. It was quite dirty! I then sprayed the air conditioner cooling fins the same way (but in place). Next I used the hose/nozzle to back flush the radiator. It appeared that the water flowed more freely (more volume) through the radiator towards the end of the flush than at the beginning, but I'm not really sure. I then reassembled the radiator and added coolant/water mix.

As before, the coolant temperature never got above 50% while driving in the city (but the fans ran anytime the temperature gauge was above 40%). I took the car to the mountains again this weekend, and the temperature gauge rose to a max of ~65% at the crest of a long hill, but quickly returned to ~45% halfway down the other side. It previously got to ~90% on the same hill the weekend before the radiator cleaning (about the same ambient temperature both weekends), so I believe the cleaning helped.

I'm not sure if the radiator cleaning completely resolved the problem, since I don't recall how high the temperature gauge would rise before the Service Engine Soon light came on (which, by the way, turned off on it's own prior to the radiator cleaning). Although the coolant temperature gauge rarely gets above 50% now, it seems that the fans are still running more than before the problem was first encountered.

I still think that the engine is running hotter the usual. I'm also getting better than usual gas mileage , which makes me think that it's running lean (which would also explain the engine running hotter). However, I haven't detected any pinging/knocking and the code reader doesn't show anything related to a lean condition. I still don't feel like replacing parts just to test this theory, so will continue to closely monitor the engine temperature. I may take the car in for an emissions test to verify/refute the lean theory - they're not mandated any more, so it will be interesting to see if the testing cost has gone up?

Don

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You've noted such a change with just cleaning and flushing of just raditator that all needs consideration. Higher concentrations of anti-freeze also work against you for heat transfer. Boiling points listed include a working 15lbs pressure cap (check that) which is misleading as stronger anti-freeze mixes are more likely to over heat! EG anti-freeze by itself is a terrible heat exchanger.

Many factors of load, density of air for heat exchange come into play climbing hills in high altitude such that overdrive use would also hamper RPMs for water pump's flow rate and so on.

A/C's condenser (cooling fins in front of radiator) might show oil and collected dirt which would take a cleaner to remove and indicates a leak in A/C not relevant on it's own (the leak) for overheating but would hamper total air flow for engine's radiator. A/C use certainly adds to the heat load too,

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hi,

Wish we had split this thread back when as it starts with another's car.

Just some ideas and comments:

*I doubt if it's running well the engine is running lean and getting better MPG because of that. What will really make some measurable MPG difference is how much ethanol is in the fuel you buy perhaps. I notice it when I buy fuel in another state - specifically New Hampshire!

*Cleaning the flushing just the radiator seemed to make a substatial improvement! What kind of dirt are you getting? Bugs, plain road dirt, leaves of some sort? This may need to be a routine for you. Check that A/C (condenser) as it gets hit first AND they carry oil and leaks will clog those with dust dirt much faster if oily from a leak - common here with sand on roads used in Winter for traction to get leaks in those. Never mind that for fixing the leak if one is found but clean that with a degreaser like Westley's White Wall tire cleaner - carefully.

*Also check that the radiator cap or pressure cap is holding pressure. It can be tested or simply squeeze a radiator hose cool as reference and when warmed up (careful please) when fully warmed up. It should decidedly hold pressure or boiling point will drop dramatically especially in high atlitude use! (see next note)

*Anti-freeze testers and coolant: Many are off and always best to really know the % concentration by quarts used from known system capacity or try a couple different testers - shocking how bad they can be. Side note: Freeze protection is also related to poor cooling??!! The stronger the mixture (will read lower freeze #) the less efficient the coolant mix is and will boil more easily because of poor heat transfer. Never mind the boilover protection on guages as that is always referencing use of a 15# pressure cap. Ethylene Glycol itself is a poor coolant for cooling and doesn't raise boiling point much at all by itself but we need it not to freeze and it comes with anti-corrosives which are needed so it's a game. You said -20F was noted which should be fine for most. The recommended for most vehicles is 50/50 which yields -34F but doesn't cool as well as a weaker (more water) mixture but be careful of this and weaker is ok but changes should be increased corrosion protection. Some vehicles will specify much less concentration on purpose as heat exchange space/ability is limited so you would only find that for rare high performance cars and especially closed systems in auto-engined marine use!

Altitude notation: Water boils at 212F as we know at sea level. At altitudes it will boil significantly lower temps (mixed or not with anti-freeze) without pressure and there's a % loss of air density to cool the radiator so it's a double whack at a cooling system. All that and the load of going uphill as mentioned are pushing limits of automotive cooling systems. For most cars temp should stay stable once at operating temps. Load, altitude, and climbing a grade I'll allow some noticed higher operating temps but still within "safe" area on temp gauge. Higher speed increases airflow but higher speeds up grade at altitude ever increasing with thinner air is a factor as the speed is a load itself increasing engine heat. Depending on conditions of the day and situation it will be advised not to use "overdrive" in autos or the highest gear in standards (depending on each car)

************8

T