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Bosal
2005 Mitsubishi Galant Exhaust Muffler Bosal

P311-41A7420    W0133-1770646  New

Qty:
$158.27
Bosal Exhaust Muffler
Brand: Bosal
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2005 - Mitsubishi Galant
Bosal
1999 Mitsubishi Galant Exhaust Muffler Bosal

P311-56C11E7    W0133-1731816  New

Qty:
$124.12
Bosal Exhaust Muffler
  • "FREE LIFETIME WARRANTY"- SEE TERMS AND CONDITIONS FOR DETAILS AND WARRANTY CLAIM FORM AT WWW.BOSALNAFTA.COM
  • Rear
Brand: Bosal
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1999 - Mitsubishi Galant
Bosal
1999 Mitsubishi Montero Sport Exhaust Muffler Bosal

P311-2FD2D8B    W0133-1731542  New

Qty:
$164.56
Bosal Exhaust Muffler
  • Production: 06/01/1999-
  • Front - Center
Brand: Bosal
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1999 - Mitsubishi Montero Sport
Bosal
2000 Mitsubishi Montero Sport Exhaust Muffler Bosal

P311-2FD2D8B    W0133-1731542  New

Qty:
$164.56
Bosal Exhaust Muffler
  • Front - Center
Brand: Bosal
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2000 - Mitsubishi Montero Sport
Bosal
1999 Mitsubishi Galant Exhaust Muffler Bosal

P311-2EEA994    W0133-1731818  New

Qty:
$122.00
Bosal Exhaust Muffler
  • Bosal warrants all exhaust systems parts against defects in workmanship and material when used on passenger cars & light trucks under normal operating conditions for 2 years. For further information visit: www.bosalnafta.com
Brand: Bosal
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1999 - Mitsubishi Galant
Bosal
2002 Mitsubishi Lancer Exhaust Muffler Bosal

P311-08E2D30    W0133-2037335  New

Qty:
$87.63
Bosal Exhaust Muffler
Brand: Bosal
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2002 - Mitsubishi Lancer
Bosal
2002 Mitsubishi Lancer Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 2.0L Bosal

P311-504F94D    177-671  New

Qty:
$95.11
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers Mitsubishi Lancer 02
Brand: Bosal
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2002 - Mitsubishi Lancer L 2000 - Rear
Bosal
1999 Mitsubishi Galant Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 2.4L Bosal

P311-533F4DE    177-089  New

Qty:
$91.05
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers 99-01 MITS GALANT
Brand: Bosal
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1999 - Mitsubishi Galant L 2351 - Rear United States
Bosal
1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 2.0L Bosal

P311-4DFFB38    177-297  New

Qty:
$103.18
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers 95 TALON / ECLIPSE
Brand: Bosal
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Vehicle Aspiration Block CC CID Engine VIN Position Region
1995 - Mitsubishi Eclipse Naturally Aspirated L 1997 122 Y Rear United States
Bosal
1994 Mitsubishi Galant Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 2.4L Bosal

P311-49EC792    177-151  New

Qty:
$88.97
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers 94-5 MITS GALANT
Brand: Bosal
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1994 - Mitsubishi Galant L 2351 - Rear United States
Bosal
1985 Mitsubishi Montero Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 2.6L Bosal

P311-338DDD7    281-837  New

Qty:
$75.78
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Assemblies 84/6 MONTERO
Brand: Bosal
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1985 - Mitsubishi Montero L 2555 156 Rear United States
Bosal
1984 Mitsubishi Montero Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 2.6L Bosal

P311-338DDD7    281-837  New

Qty:
$75.78
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Assemblies 84/6 MONTERO
  • From 06/84;
Brand: Bosal
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1984 - Mitsubishi Montero L 2555 156 Rear United States
Bosal
1986 Mitsubishi Montero Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 2.6L Bosal

P311-338DDD7    281-837  New

Qty:
$75.78
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Assemblies 84/6 MONTERO
  • Model code: L042G From 5/86
Brand: Bosal
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1986 - Mitsubishi Montero L 2555 156 Rear United States
Bosal
1986 Mitsubishi Montero Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 2.6L Bosal

P311-338DDD7    281-837  New

Qty:
$75.78
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Assemblies 84/6 MONTERO
  • To 04/86
Brand: Bosal
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1986 - Mitsubishi Montero L 2555 156 Rear United States
Bosal
1987 Mitsubishi Montero Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 2.6L Bosal

P311-338DDD7    281-837  New

Qty:
$75.78
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Assemblies 84/6 MONTERO
  • Model code: L042G;
Brand: Bosal
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1987 - Mitsubishi Montero L 2555 156 Rear United States
Bosal
1993 Mitsubishi Mirage Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 1.5L Bosal

P311-43CCEFE    177-153  New

Qty:
$66.57
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers 93-4 COLT/SUMMIT/MIR
Brand: Bosal
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1993 - Mitsubishi Mirage L 1468 90 Rear United States
Bosal
1993 Mitsubishi Mirage Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 1.8L Bosal

P311-43CCEFE    177-153  New

Qty:
$66.57
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers 93-4 COLT/SUMMIT/MIR
  • Federal Emissions
Brand: Bosal
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1993 - Mitsubishi Mirage L 4 1834 112 Rear United States
Bosal
1997 Mitsubishi Mirage Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 1.5L Bosal

P311-43CCEFE    177-153  New

Qty:
$66.57
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers 93-4 COLT/SUMMIT/MIR
  • Cal Emissions
Brand: Bosal
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1997 - Mitsubishi Mirage L 1468 90 Rear
Bosal
1997 Mitsubishi Diamante Exhaust Muffler - Rear 6 Cyl 3.5L Bosal

P311-3715F3A    177-793  New

Qty:
$122.55
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers 97-01 MITS DIAMANTE
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position Region
1997 - Mitsubishi Diamante V 3497 215 Rear United States
Bosal
1989 Mitsubishi Galant Exhaust Muffler 4 Cyl 2.0L Bosal

P311-4285D68    281-147  New

Qty:
$60.95
Bosal Exhaust Muffler
  • Bosal Exhaust Assemblies 89- MITS GALANT
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Drive Type Engine VIN Region
1989 - Mitsubishi Galant L 1997 122 SOHC FWD V United States

Latest Mitsubishi Repair and Muffler Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

94 eclipse -- engine light, rattling, rough idle, idles to 0 and dies when a/c is turned up

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on 94 eclipse -- engine light, rattling, rough idle, idles to 0 and dies when a/c is turned up

I have a 1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse with 110,000 miles on it, manual transmission. It ran pretty nicely for a while but then I drove from Phoenix to Kansas City and back. Ever since, four things have begun happening:

1) The engine light is always on.

2) The engine or something near it rattles loudly when the car is running.

3) The car normally idles at around 1100rpm but it periodically (once every two or three seconds) drops 200-300 rpm when I'm sitting at the stop light. Doesn't matter if I'm in nuetral or not, it always does it so long as I don't have my foot on the gas.

It's not so bad when the A/C is off, but for each notch I turn the A/C up the idle dips lower, and if I have the A/C on full-blown, it drops all the way and dies instantly every single time I take my foot off the gas. This is a big problem since I live in Phoenix!

It seems like the problem is worse when it's really hot outside (like 95 degrees plus, and this is separate from the A/C issue), but I could just be imagining things.

4) It seems to sometimes be leaking something -- not enough that you'd notice it happening, but I'll notice wet stains beneath the car on the driveway if I haven't driven it in several days. The car also has started to generally smell like fuel or something.

I know very little about cars, but I was hoping someone might be able to point me in the right direction. Thanks!

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

These vehicles are a pain (if) they are in need of repairs, Its gonna take a high-tech scanner for the check engine to be diagnose,and for the rattle, loose heat shield/motor mount/muffler and other related parts of the exhaust system...trace the sound and inspect and check the pulleys.The air flow sensor/ or the idle control which is built in the throttle body/or the ecm could be at fault...a diagnostic would help out a lot,the stains under the car might be fuel....oil doesn't evaporate and the presence of fuel odor would suggest that you could have a fuel leak ......the fuel line is located next to the firewall and the filter is mounted there too....if you have a leak just follow your nose and inspect under the car for wetness.

DIY A/C repair advice

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From Mufasa on DIY A/C repair advice

Greetings guys, i recently had my AC looked at at an auto elec, told me the compressor was busted and i'd need a new drier too, quoted me $800 for that (original regas was $190 or something)

im guessing the cars previous owners never had the a/c serviced

anyway i'm thinking about DIY'ing (without experience) this repair and here are some numbers i've come up with
best case scenario, if i buy 2nd hand compressor and have a mechanic install it (2 hours labor?)
$495
worst case (4 hours labor < i have no idea what would be a fair time)
$655
best case scenario if i DIY this
vacuum pump -$100 (perhaps i could sell it afterwards too)
parts $155 + some for oil/orings
$465 including regas (maybe $400 if i sell vacuum afterwards)

any advice on this? is there any equipment i'm not accounting for that i will need? any other parts etc?, are my estimates reasonable?

my car is a 2003 mitsubishi lancer 4d CG ES

thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Did it work with it as you said a "regas" job? That alone would be charging it up properly with exact amount of refrigerant so testing could go on and seems all you know is compressor is busted - Oh really! That's it?


A/C is a lousy way to save money DIYing if you really need it doing things wrong will be the most expensive way out. Used compressor is fine if you just need dead weight or the pulley and about it IMO.


Full diagnosis before even deciding if it's worth it at all. Leaks, contamination, electrical items and an OMG list of things all need be right or it's all a guess if in operative now.


Some a leaking evap alone labor could kill the value of having A/C or not vs the bucks and still only one item in the show.


Diagnose or have it done expecting up to a ton of things to do not like just tossing out an alternator type thing at all,


T

Response From Mufasa

what's wrong with a used working compressor?
i can get a used working compressor with 3 months warranty for $150, or a brand new one for $600

Response From Tom Greenleaf

A/C is a whole field of study not some part. If you really knew of a working one right now AND knew YOURS was even the problem you could.


You have to keep track of oil as there's no measuring it or empty entirely, flush whole system out and start with a known amount.


Just to properly fill a working system is a night course. Air will kill a good system or any significant over or undercharge. Not a good DIY thing without the equipment and at least competent help for a first attempt. Said already, the wrong move can take a couple hundred buck problem and make it thousands if done wrong!


Just look at what it takes only to charge up a known relatively OK system..........


Link is locked up top few of this section......... Worth the read........
http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Heating_or_AC_Issues_F8/REFRIGERANT_CHARGING_PROCEDURE_IN_AUTOMOTIVE_A/C_SYSTEMS_P45460/


Tom

Response From Mufasa

Hi again tom, i have no intention of DIY re-gassing the system (it's illegal to do that unqualified here)

as for the problem turning into a larger problem if it's stuffed up
well, if i can save 400 dollars, and there's a good chance a used compressor will work if installed professionally, it seems it would be worth the risk (worst case scenario is, it breaks even worse than it is now, and i'll just live without A/C in my car lol)

but yeah, i'm reasonably convinced i should seek professional installation for it, but it's definately not worth paying $550+ for a brand new compressor in my situation

anyway, as i know the compressor is busted (i had it checked out at an auto elect), i think i'll buy a used one, and get the auto elec to see if there's anything else broken on it, if not, install the parts and all's good

Response From Mufasa

just another update, i've contacted the wreckers, asked how long the owner of the part i intended to buy, was told it's still in a vehicle and running fine, so i'll assume it hasn't had a chance to dry out the seals

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It's involved and trouble to use remanufactured units vs new never mind used! You need to know what happened to your own not just told "busted" and if it ran low, made noise there's debris to deal with. If plain weak or operated when as YOU call it "re-gassed" then leaked out of it you may get lucky.


Then you drain old units to see how much oil comes out and measure it. Same for replacement and hope it hasn't been open too long as oil can turn acidic exposed to air. If other or donor car had sealer in it you may get it and who knows what troubles.


It's just not a good used game or DIY thing at all. It's hard to know all that is wrong with yours now and that tells of how much you need to do and I don't think you know that. Where if any leaks are they and how fast?


What were the pressures when you A/C was declared to have a dead or "busted" compressor? A/C repair is not just single parts replacements and recharging but need to know more as to the approach or can lose everything done and still need about every component that touches refrigerant and oil when at first you didn't.


If you don't mind the gamble and stop at that loss if all fails go for it. It might work just I can't say absolutely 100% in the best of cases but would sure try to know as much as possible before digging in and recklessly spending bucks that are unlikely to work.


The thing is A/C is much on it's own as a trade. Not all shops will take it on at all as it's costly all around and seasonal for most but the cost of equipment goes on if only taking up space you could use for something else year round. Shops do, do A/C all year for assorted reasons but most don't where I live or delay final fixes till later sometimes.


I just suggest knowing as much as you can so you are aware of it so you aren't totally surprised if your approach fails or doesn't last. Good luck,


T

Response From Mufasa

Well, i'm already 100% convinced i shouldnt do this myself, and i'll take it to an auto shop, also i've noticed that minly auto electricians do the A/C stuff in my aria, and not regular mechanics

as for acidic seals, i actually already asked the seller about this in advance, i asked when the parts were removed and how they were stored, was told the parts were still in a vehicle, working, and would be removed upon shipping- i may need to store the parts for like 2 weeks, any advice on this?

also, is a diagnostic labour intensive? if i'm going to pay $80 for that, i might just save that until i take the car in for the full repair

thanks so much for donating your professional knowledge to me too ;)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Great that the used part if going that was is still intact in a vehicle. Now, when removed it would be open so I would try to seal it off from air as best you can.


Some may hold oil some not much. The oils used in 134a (should be your refrigerant) is about always PAG types that absorb moisture. Alone not the world right away but dammit it can make it acidic.


Oil of any type lubes a compressor but travels thru the whole system. When parked it will settle where it will and you really don't know how much is where if just sitting, at what angle and for how long. Makes knowing things exactly a nightmare. That's why this crap gets expensive.


Diagnostic time really unknown. Much easier with a slowly failing system while still doing something. Leaks are generally the #1 reason for lack of cooling. Many vehicles continue to try with compressor engaged and oils don't move along to lube it by the time it is both engaged and can't cool so there's the real trouble and compressor is running dry, then a debris field unknown. Yuk. One teaspoon of fine debris and the whole job fails!


Now if in biz for this and you know components are costly, customer doesn't have a year to understand risks of failure and why so expensive but you as the shop should be taking responsibility for some period of time you would naturally default to tossing and doing more pro-actively to make it work well and for as long as possible. Hey - who the heck wants to fail - doesn't do a shop or tech any good either! Nobody really wants a ticked off customer nor a personal failure of missing something.


Your best bet if you proceed is to make a printed list of everything known by what evidence IMO for the tech(s) to help them make some guesses and suggestions that may include no warranty what-so-ever with YOUR parts.


Relax some in the seals and rubber parts are virtually all compatible with the 134a refrigerant, a smaller molecule that takes a better grade then 1993 and older OE vehicles now too long ago to worry about for you. It's the metals IMO that don't like acidic things or corrosion from outside causes either.


FYI: I'm inland of Boston, MA, USA so totally out of season but things happen - collisions and repairs that will violate an A/C system. Most do not heat shops much more than to keep from freezing except a very few. I'm done with this game for a long time but if one came or was sent to me in wild cold I would prep it for finishing in warmer weather and mark it with what was done probably for a tech I'll never know or see.


Sorry for the novel on this. I only meant to advise you that is isn't that easy to just understand never mind do it and succeed plus huge bucks possible but not always.


Good luck. Just hope you understand a little why so many will say it's not a good DIY thing many times,


Tom

Response From Mufasa

so, any suggestions on how to store the compressor for 2 weeks?
i'm thinking, just wrap tightly in cling wrap and store in garage

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Plug ports with what works that wont get inside. Store dry. Prior to installation it should be turned with fresh proper oil as a pre-lube however your chance of knowing how much oil was in that one may be lost if you didn't remove it and measure it so default to educated guessing by its location when installed, system capacity as a whole. General rough guess is add 2 oz of specified oil to it and upstream. Cross fingers you are close or whole system gets flushed out for a known amount.


Note: Most (never say all) will tolerate 2oz over spec with minimal impact. Way too much compressor can choke/hydraulic lock and way under burn out fast from lack of lube.


Over filled some frequently will just settle to bottom of a condenser depending on design making it less efficient a little or a lot?


Guessing is just that when you don't have a dipstick to know for sure,


T

Response From Mufasa

so, are you saying i just need to have the new compressors oil flushed out, so we can start with a known 0 amount of oil?, i cant imagine you mean to flush the whole current system, as a brand new compressor would come empty too, right?

as i said, i'm convinced i wont DIY this, so would that really be a problem for a professional?

are there any questions i should ask the seller about oil etc when i buy it, so i have information for my mechanic?

Response From Discretesignals

If the old compressor came apart and spewed metal throughout the system, you have to flush the lines and the evaporator core out before installing your replacement compressor, drier, condenser and TXV. The parallel flow condensers are impossible to flush contaminates out of due to their design.

You also have to oil balance the system with PAG 46. There is a certain amount of oil the system uses and the oil has to be distributed throughout the system when you put it back together. I would definitely drain any new or used compressor and add around 3-4 ounces of fresh PAG. Do not flush a compressor or drier. The remaining amount of PAG the system holds gets oil balanced between the condensor, drier, and evaporator.

There are a lot of steps and procedures when doing ac work. Just about anyone can slap a compressor on and get an ac system to work, but the ones that perform the proper procedures and fully understand the operation and design of the system they are working on usually end up with a system that lasts many years.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote "
as i said, i'm convinced i wont DIY this, so would that really be a problem for a professional?"


That's the good news. As DS just pointed out a pro will suggest doing as he said for the best chance of success with a still used compressor they may not want to use at all so check first with the shop you choose. Some don't want to deal with any of YOUR parts NOR rebuilt compressors at all even right out of the box.


Failures set you back to do it all over again and plus some ending up costing more. Most condensers will be high efficiency and the best attempts to clear one out (flush) is about impossible. It's not straight line tubes and fins inside. Leaving flush in it would wreck the rest of the job all over again.


Driers anywhere, receivers or accumulator hold "desiccant" much like those little packets you may have seen in a package with sensitive electronics that say "do not eat" on them?? No matter but the stuff absorbs any left over moisture and can act as a filter but only once. Flush would ruin them.


Oil mentioned has to quickly be all thru the system so when you redo or begin from empty you do spread it all around. As the compressor first engages it hopefully is fully charged or very close as time is limited even with pre spinning thru oil how long it can without burning up! That would be start all over again!


This A/C stuff is perhaps the only but at least in the top couple things that if done wrong can cause more damage than what you started with making it cost insane amounts to try again.


That explains why so many shops especially if located in seasonal area don't want this work as many folks wouldn't know if their A/C works or not when extremely cold.


Beating up on this to save you. An analogy would be like taking a spray paint can out of your freezer and see how it works - get the idea?


Again depending on location for the shops the space is expensive all the time to even store stuff and for A/C specific things there's low demand or nothing for many months and not worth having it and a tech hanging around too if that's his/her specialty only when so much other work could be going on in that space,


Good luck. Think and know as you do now that it's not always so easy yet you may hear of someone who got away with something but not the disastrous ones! Tom

Response From Mufasa

Maybe i'd be best off just holding off on buying the compressor, and waiting till i can get to an auto elec to do a decent diagnostic, get all the damage before i do anything, see if they can tell me how bad it is, i'd still like to get a used compressor, but we'll see what happens

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sounds like a plan. Go ahead and talk to a specific tech now if only to get more ideas from them and ask if they have enough equipment for this plus the credentials as well.


One good thing is that if bearing for the clutch on compressor is good you have all the time you wish and could just ignore having A/C at all if you can and want to live without.


Many where I'm located when a vehicle is getting over 10 years, rusting, some miles already just pass on fixing and already were looking for newer or plain new vehicle entirely and spare the expense. You have a choice with this. You don't when it's brake problems or many other issues a vehicle can need,


Tom

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

What do you mean the compressor busted?

If the compressor grenaded, you'll need a lot more than a compressor. You'll need the condenser, possible hose if it has a muffler in it, drier, and a thermo-expansion valve. You'll also need to flush out the system using ac flush and dry compressed air. The compressor that came apart more than likely sent metal through out the system.

Your gamble if you want to stick a used compressor on. As a professional tech, I would never stick a used salvage yard compressor on someone's vehicle unless they requested it and sign the repair order stating there is no warranty on labor or the rest of the parts that could be affect by compressor failure.

Your best bet, if you want to do this yourself, is to have an ac shop recover the refrigerant that is in the system. Then you can perform your repairs and have the shop charge and test the system to be sure you did your repairs correctly. That would save you money on buying a bunch of support equipment that you will use very little.

Don't know where your getting $600 for a compressor unless your going through the dealer. You can get a GDP or Compressor Works new reman compressor for around $300. You get what you pay for.

please help...need to fix prob. asap

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From yagerkagen on please help...need to fix prob. asap

1997 dodge ram 1500 v6:

doesn't idle, sometimes doesrn't start, might be battery.

1985 chrysle yorker

won't idle until warmed up...black smoke when it starts, loss of power.

EDIT: ok, i was short on time earlier and was rather vague....sooooo, heres the full problems......

1997 dodge, standard:(this is for a friend of mine..need to fix asap....please help..)

alright, one day the truck just suddenly wouldn't crank when you turned the key. All it did when when turning the key was click. He had the battery tested, because this had happened once before, and they said the battery was still good. next day, he had o go to work, but when he started his truck, it wouldn't ide, he had to feather the gas to keep it running. he brought it to my house so i could try to help figure out the problem. when he got to my house, he shut off the truck and came inside. when he tried to start the truck for me to hear it....1st time he tried, it started, but it sounded real bad, like it was barely struggling to keep running, he let off the gas and it died...2nd time it made a click ing noise, after that it did nothing. My battery charger doesn''t have clips, just exposed wire. we took the battery cables off, put the wire on etc....the battery charger for some reason wouldn't turn on. we removed it and put the cable back on. he turned the key and it started without any problem and idled, and it sounded just fine. What would cause this to happen, we need to prevent this from happening, so he can get to work..thanks..



1985 chrysler new yorker, 4 cylender, 2.6l, automatic: (this is for me..not in any hurry for this one, trying o get my car running)

when i start my car and the engine is not already warmed up, it barely runs. A black and white mix of smoke comes out the muffler and white smoke with a little bit of blck smoke mix in comes from the back by the exhaust manifold. I have already checked the seal, the guy i bought it from had a new one on it so it was still good. When I put back on, i torqued it to what the manual said(don't remember..i think it was 13ftlbs?..). I have to push the gas pedal to the floor to keep the car running and it uses alot of gas. When it warms up it will idle just fine. When I drive it, it doesn't much power. I have to floor it to really start getting up to even 20-30 mph. How can I fix this problem? thanks..

Response From Guest

For the truck:Get a voltage meter/tester ready and begin at the battery - cable from the terminal to the body mount location,visually inspect,check resistance while jiggling wire to check for internal corrosion,repeat this proccess for the battery +12v cable from the terminal to the starter sylenoid and also check the 12v capabilities of the wire(s) now follow that set of wires from your sylenoid to the power distribution box and alternator these are the wires that if damaged or corroded will cause that to happen,replace any that are bad,check the values of these wires @ idle (be very cautious of the alternator fan and other moving parts) and see if everything is getting the main 12 volt when it needs it.Also does your check engine light illuminate at any time?

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

Your friend’s truck I’m not sure; could be so many things and from this end they all would be just guesses. All I can say about the no crank is to clean all cable connections and not just the battery terminals but the other ends of the cables where the positive connects to the starter and the negative to the engine block. After that; without checking myself; possibly a dead spot on the starter’s armature?

For your 2.6 Mitsubishi it sounds like the choke pull-off is not functioning. The pull-off is designed to crack the choke open approximately a 1/16” as soon as the engine starts. It does this by using engine vacuum applied to a diaphragm, which pulls on the choke mechanism, overcoming choke spring tension.
This diaphragm likely has a hole in it or the vacuum passages are plugged. Replacing this diaphragm is no easy job and if not done carefully you will damage the carb. I suggest taking it to someone who is familiar with this to have it checked and replaced if need be. The main body of the carb is plastic and can crack as your removing the heat shield’s rivets and shield to gain access to the pull-off assembly housing.
This choke also uses engine coolant to heat the choke’s by-metallic spring. The passageways that feed the warmed coolant to the choke were bad for plugging up with crud, stopping the coolant flow. No hot coolant and the choke will stay on forever, causing the engine to run overly rich. (black smoke)
Dan.