Shop Kia Mufflers

I think it's probably time to put this one to bed.

Well, If you want it to go faster, get a bigger rubber band.

tj0; You can't be serious? It's a KIA, for God's sake. Just drive it. Keep the rpms down. If the timing belt breaks, it's over. Period. If you want a 'race' car, buy one. Oh, and that tomatoe can sized muffler doesn't do anything but annoy the neighbors.





Oh man..... you really crack me up sometimes Loren.....

How do you dismantle the air bag from your puter? LMAO so hard it blows up!

You guys are great - keep up the awesome work you do and I'll double your pay - LOL

Tom

You guys are great - keep up the awesome work you do and I'll double your pay


OH yea baby! Can anybody say winter house in the Bahamas..... Man I am so there

Ok: 10 Times the pay - same math!

***************
Off topic - been to most islands in Caribbean and Caracas, VZ now ages ago. Not to Bahamas yet and too old and cranky to travel any more! LOL

I dunno Tom..... A little rum, a little sand between the toes & some sun ( I know the warm suns gotta be sounding good now ) and checking out the scenery.... Ya might not be so grumpy...........lol

And after the "big pay raise" kicks in...... Ya can come chill at my new beach house...........lmao

It's a nice place to visit but you wouldn't want to live there. I'm at the closest point to the US. West bank, Grand Bahama is 55 miles due east from me. Our boats head over there to fish a lot. The fishing is awesome over there.

It's a nice place to visit but you wouldn't want to live there. I'm at the closest point to the US. West bank, Grand Bahama is 55 miles due east from me. Our boats head over there to fish a lot. The fishing is awesome over there.
Whoa hold on somebody said the "F" word ............FISHING

I have heard a lot of crazy things in my day but putting Noz on a kia has to take first prize!!!! & to think he got the boot for using the "A" word Awsome??

I have an '08 smart car that I plan on running the quarter mile with, any tips on a blower and can I run nitro methanol? What size rubber do you think I can fit on that baby?

33X12.50X15 would be my recommendation.

Geeeeez Loren.....come on man, now you are showin your age......... Twenty twos!!!!! DUB

Boosting a kia's HP 15-20 horses would just about double it, wouldn't it?

Boosting a kia's HP 15-20 horses would just about double it, wouldn't it?

Probably make it illegal for street use.

Steve

No, not 22s, 33's man! That's what I had on my Dakota. All four studded, of course.

No, not 22s, 33's man! That's what I had on my Dakota. All four studded, of course.



So what'd ya run in the winter time????.......

So what'd ya run in the winter time????

half tracks..................

I have an '08 smart car that I plan on running the quarter mile with, any tips on a blower and can I run nitro methanol? What size rubber do you think I can fit on that baby?

Just check out Staples. They carry some pretty big rubber bands.

User banned for using profanity

I also agree with Loren. It's a KIA. If you want it to go faster, get a bigger rubber band.

I wanted to see the profanity. Darned.

He called you a name that started with "A"

Hmmm. Must be my middle name. LMAO

ALMIGHTY??

AMOROUS??

Articulate - is a swear word for knowing what you are doing!

T

Oh my! It don't look exactly like that under my sportage.... When i slide up under there I see the trans oil plug and pan, rite across from that i have the universal joint thingy there then it looks like the sensor is there but when i follow it to the end it is all 2 gether in a pig tail with more than 1 snap in plug. I was taken for a $1875.89 ride from the garage and each time it was always something different that was wrong with it. My brother checked the engine soon codes and that was the only thing showing up that was bad. I am a female and I changed all my sensors myself with the help on here. Now just get the crankshaft sensor changed....

Does the sensor that bolts in place, bolt to the transmission?

It bolts to the bellhousing at about the 11 O'clock position right close to the block so it can read off the flywheel.

mines an auto and it don't have a bellhousing, i believe a straight gear has that. I believe I found it. The part that bolts in is right behind my transmission dip stick, and it takes a 10 mm to get that bolt off. Had to take off my front driver side tire, and pull the mud shield, to get to it. It is a cramp up space to work with and it will take me a while to get it off. Then i just have to find where it plugs into.

This job is obviously beyond your ability and understanding so I suggest you have it repaired at a reputable shop.

No I understood what you where saying, but the picture is not the way it looks under my sportage. I ended up calling The mechanics at the Kia dealership and they walk me thru it.

but anyways I found it, with the help from you and the Kia mechanics.

Do you have a picture showing where the crankshaft senor is with a 2.0l SOHC Fuel Injection motor?

I already gave you one.

But there is no sensor, running from there.

Sounds like you just need to let someone else look at the car. That picture came directly from the service manual.

The mechanic just left and he said theres a lot of crap that has to be taken off to get to it, and it would cost around $300.00 give or take...

You may have a different transmission but the sensor is in the area.

Ok thank you, I will crawl back under it 2morrow and see if It is the crankshaft sensor.

Steering systems don't usually go off center on their own. It's possible that the rack is moving in the bushings but it's more likely that something is rusted and broken or bent from impact.

I wouldn't be driving it until you get some accurate answers.

Yeah it's at another shop. I did not tell her to take it to midas. Midas is close to
her house. The shop I told her to take it to does good work and I have used
them off and on for the last 10 years. They are very honest, reliable and reasonable.

I don't drive it and my son n law is a Russian so it is really hard to communicate
with about his car problems. I am feeling better since Hammertime said that the
rack and pinion is probably not be the source of the problem.

Kinda hard to figure out where the 2000 dollar estimate came from. Truck is not
worth more more than that. My daughter probably ran over something and bent
something. I will have a better idea in the next couple days.

It has to be looked at by the right shop that does this work and or affiliated with shops to do the alignment when fixed. That's what the scoop is where I am - doubt alone with these things.


Midas once was a "Muffler" shop only really but made their own pipes and think still do plus take on more and more out of their original game plan IMO a bit too far.


Finding the right comprehensive independent shop is what I suggest to folks. Some things will be dealer only and if you are a regular at a place should tell you just that.


It's a lost sport - know you shop, who is working on YOUR vehicle about like you would a doctor. It makes for a good understanding customer and shop AND the tech if happy say so - find out who pleased you.


Already said that if this problem is getting worse it's trouble and driving it at all probably not good! If just tire going slowly flat it would pull and send steering off till that made itself clear. Rule out what a car owner should be paying attention to, tire pressure is one. Matching tires and by wear counts but not getting worse at some rate IMO for this.


You are trying to help which is great. Locally I'm not too crazy about chain store repair places but doesn't mean the exact people you deal with at one are not totally qualified for what they do.


Get the right shop as if this was just a bent something I don't think it would be getting worse noticeably just from that?


T

Perfect - Nothing better than the personal contact and knowing WHO you are dealing with - not just some brand named place.


Off Topic - started first full time job at a Ford Dealer, credentials up the butt but place was losing it - insane owner. The other techs I wouldn't let grease the wheels of a shopping cart! In short the name doesn't tell is all I mean the exact tech does + how the place runs so I prefer independent shops.


So soon on my own, my own shop! Then you get to know people, the habits that might cause issues and if something is going to be costly know if they care or know to suggest moving on to another car - loved it that way.


That is missing from too much of everything out there whatever the biz.


Know a good plumber? I sure don't! What a horror show last idiot did to my house! Never mind,


Tom

Talked to the mechanic. It needs a new $325 rack and pinion. He is going
to align the front end too another 80 plus $350 labor. That's about 3 or
4 hours. I have no idea what the book says as time required to put on a
rack and pinion. I know for an old fart like me it will take probably twice as
long.

I do want to pay him the going rate so he can stay in business.
I know it cost a lot for a shop to keep its doors open but I don't want him to get
ripped off. I figure he may be charging my daughter $100 more for labor
just because he knows he has my business because I have brought him a lot
of business and have told him I trust him. That's ok to a point.

Still better than the Midas $2000 quote they made to my
daughter. My daughter told me when another mechanic wanted to do the
quote the guy who ended up doing the quote shooed him off and told him "I got it".

I have seen that before when I was back in the shop when the mechanics were
discussing greasing my wheel bearings. I took it to them because of a special
they were running. One mechanic wanted the job because his bonus for the
prior week was bad and he thought he could talk me into speeding a lot more. He
said I will just tell him I need to rebuild the entire front end and do a complete
brake job. He said to the other mechanic "where is the owner I talk to him"
I said right over here. Just do the work I brought the car in for. After
hearing their conversation I have zero trust in anything they told me. The car
did not have that many miles on it and the tires were wearing fine and the brake
were not worn out.

In a shop you reputation is all you have. If you ever appear to be a clip
joint word will get out and you will go out of business and the mechanics
won't get any bonuses.

I'd be curious as to their explanation on how the rack is causing the steering wheel center position to change.

I did my best to find out but my son in law is hard to understand because
he grew up in Russia.

I got really no where when i asked him other than the steering wheel was
not centered. I've never driven it.

The mechanic told me it drove like an old truck with worn out steering
problems. He said the steering wheel had a lot of slope in it because the
rack and pinion was screwed up..That's about all I could get out of him .
Sounds to me that driving it was causing him to wrestle with the steering
wheel like I had to do to drive old trucks years ago that did
not have power steering.

The rack and pinion might have a problem causing it not to circulate oil
under pressure to one side of the rack and pinion piston. That would cause it
to pull to the left or right and maybe that would be interpreted as not
the steering wheel is not centered because if you allowed it to it would turn the
steering wheel to center it when the wheel was actually trying to turn
the vehicle because of the stopped up valve. That's about all I can figure.

I know there are valves in the rack and pinion power steering unit that move
hydraulic fluid either in front or behind the rack and pinion to help you turn
the vehicle. The position of the steering wheel determines when each valve
passes fluid. the Fluid is fed form what I believe is a power steering pump.
I believe that a mechanic is supposed to determine if the pressure is sufficient
before he determines what is wrong. I assume my mechanic knew how to
diagnose the problem before he decided it needed a new rack and pinion unit.
guess I will know if the new rack and pinion does not fix it. Anyway I figured he
knew more about diagnosing it that I did. So, I did not question him about it.

Finally got the rack and pinion installed. Since it is one of the few Borrego's that Kia made
it is almost impossible to get parts for without getting your order becoming back ordered at
autozone or Napa or Oreilly. I order a rebuilt one from Rockauto. They have a R&R deal with
A1Cardone. I boxed it up and sent the rack and pinion to Harlington Texas where A1Cardone is
and they rebuilt it back to factory Specs. That fixed it.

It did not even need an outer tie rod end. Cost my daughter $580 bucks which is a lot better than
paying Midas where she first took it the $1900 that they quoted her to fix it.

I have my fingers crossed. The mechanic said it was repaired well and has the same stamps
on it that the rack and pinions have that he gets from Autozone so he thinks it is a good reconditioned
unit. It does have a 3 year warranty with A1Cardone. Since Napa used A1Cardone i believe they
are a good company to get parts from.

Just wanted to get back and tell everyone the outcome.

Things sounding much better - great.


How long with now about a 9 year old vehicle (could be) a job takes by the book is out the window as I see it. Some just will take more time and tools to fight with stuff you don't for the first few years where I am if cars/vehicles are driven in the damg acidic, most corrosive salted road plastic RUSTS! It washes grease out of things if it can.


Not funny but a shop I've been associated with for ages (alignments) the dang probably $100K machine needs new ramps just from the salted clots that fall off vehicles!


Ask a tech if you go off topic would they do this trade all over again if they could hit the "reset" button? Most will say NO! NEVER!


It's costly and takes time to learn it which is ever changing never mind tools - never enough and always need something more. That's on the tech if a hand tool and on the shop if larger stuff - both cost just sitting there plus rent/taxes/insurance and a list of other mandatory costs per month whether you work or not. Brutal.


Give them their due and expect all things fair both ways. A good trade person doesn't need to pad a bill. There's enough crap in need out there you shouldn't have to think like that.


Sounds much better. Said I'm not thrilled with chain auto repair joints yet some can be excellent. IMO less chance though?


Tom

"He said, She said" isn't going to work. It should go for a REAL alignment where all is checked (should be or can't align it) and end up with a "centered" steering wheel. That's protocol for an alignment OR tell you what's worn or too bad to get a good alignment,


T

It needs to be inspected to answer that question but it's pretty standard for VWs to replace rotors with pads. They are engineered with softer metal for better friction and braking but that causes just as much wear to the rotors as the pads. If they are dished out, no question it needs them.

The prices sound a but excessive though it's possible. I did a BMW today that was $1000.

>>I did a BMW today that was $1000.<<
Gotta love those European cars!

I'm sorry HT that you were subjected to such torture. I think you should get the rest of the week off with pay. I would rather put nitrous on a Kia then work on a beemer.

Steve

>>rather put nitrous on a Kia then work on a beemer. << Or deal with their owners.

Muffy, Muffy, the beemer is in the shop. I must take the Jaguar to go golfing.

Steve

Ah, you understand what I meant. LOL. Just wonder what percentage of these 'types' are leased vs. owned?

Just wonder what percentage of these 'types' are leased vs. owned?

In my part of town, they are just spare cars that are left here all summer so they will have a car to drive when they come down here.

I would rather put nitrous on a Kia then work on a beemer.

You gotta get used to it in my part of town. Remember, my shop is right on the beach in a resort community. Everything's a Lexus, a Beemer or a Mercedes and the Lexus never breaks............ I hate em.

Muffy, Muffy, the beemer is in the shop. I must take the Jaguar to go golfing.

This has to be said in the Thurston Howell III accent to get the full effect.

Steve

You stated the water got up to the seats in the KIA? Flood cars can have numerous electrical problems since connectors, wiring, and modules can have water intrusion. More than likely the PCM got water intrusion since it sits behind the center console. The problem is the salt water will corrode all the electrical connections causing all sorts of weird problems.

Have you contacted you insurance company? More than likely they will total the vehicle.

I appreciate the responses guys. unfortunately, we don't have full coverage otherwise i wouldn't have attempted to fix. I understand that the car will be a headache and most likely die quickly but quite frankly we've got so many things we're dealing including a basement that got 5 feet of water in it that we don't have the time or resources right now to buy a used car which i hear are selling for inflated prices due to the new demand. Ideally, i'm looking to spend $100 or so and get a month or two out of the car if i can just to get though these rough times, which is why i'm turning to you guys for advice. my neighbor was able to get his car workin minus a few shorts, but that would be fine by me.

My main problems are this:
1) why would gasoline fuel get in to the air filter and engine if the car was fine before the storm and was never started since? no water got in to either engine or air filter. i changed oil and it seems to have gone in again(please refer to my first post for details)

2) would water in muffler cause the car to not start? if so how do i drain it completely? i tried jacking up the car and only got some out.

3) can the main computer be bad if all electrical components of car seem to work? odometer shows digital miles, fuel level, door open when its open and power windows and locks work.

Thats a bad deal, I feel for you. It's a tough spot....

This is a tough one to do online because we really don't know what the deal is with the car and going off previous history with "flood" cars, this really doesn't look good..

I know you're gonna keep trying so what you need to do is get your hands on a cheap code reader and see if you have any kind of communication with the PCM. No communication and you are pretty much done.

Go ask the neighbor to give you a hand and take a quick look at it....

First let me say thank you for evacuatng. I spent about a decade in US Coast Guard aviation. Retrieving the remains of those who rode it out or were just at the wrong place at wrong time was not a pleasent memory. NOW about your car. In the height of the storm and sometime after, a lot of stuff became submerged. underground storage tanks and gas and oil from lawnmowers ,construction equip and such. Grease and battery acid. And sadly remains of desceased humans and animals.I saw it all while hovering over the mess . Imagine taking a swimming pool .Put everything from under your sinks and garage , some rotten food ,couple gallons of gas and oil and lastly a bucket of septic waste. NOW add car ,just up to seats, mix well . Everything rubbber is going to rot in months.l Your brakes have soaked up this mess and are useless.THe smell seems to be everywhere because it IS everywhere. You may get it to run.But in a few months who will want to ride with you? JUST ANOTHER POINT OF VIEW

I'm still confused as to what can cause some gasoline to get in to the air filter and engine and again after i changed oil. I've read about this happening with people driving through floods and pistons getting bent etc, but i never started my car during and since the flood.


As I stated before . The storm surge has gas and other products mixed in it. This storm water did not gently rise up in your car.It was driven by 75+ mph winds . It was blown thru your grille. Into ducts and the intake system , down open valves . It has soaked into any foam seals, and is in every nook ands cranny. You will never get rid of the gas smell.

Yea it really doesn't look good......It sounds like you have no communication, this is why you are getting errors......You should pull codes on a known good car with your app to make sure you know how to use it & then try again, but it sounds like the PCM is gone...

Do what DS suggested & open it up......The problem here is,,,, with it being shorted out due to being wet, when the car was cranked over would be enough to fry the PCM. Go grab a couple cans of electrical cleaner......clean it out & dry in real good, go thru the engine compartment, open up all the electrical connecters you can find & clean those out as well.....

You do realize this is an exercise in futility but I get it......I'd do the same thing but just don't let this take up your time for other important stuff.....

I've seen people have success in stuff before when they didn't realize it was an impossible chore.....Once you know it's impossible.....you're done....

Good luck

You can't simply buy a used computer and plug it in. They are personally programmed including the VIN # of the car. Apparently you just aren't listening or don't believe what you are being told. The car is toast. Just burn your money. You will accomplish just as much.

I understand very well what's been told to me and i know full well the car won't give me any usable life. I tend to be stubborn and was hoping i could get mine started like my neighbor did to his. I was not aware that the computer is personally programmed for that unique vehicle with VIN # . Unfortunately i can't post links, apparently, but i was just passing information that i found doing a google search on someone who had similar problems as mine and bought a used computer and it solved his problem .You're the expert, so then if it can't be done...

The life expectancy of your starter is probably down to days now.

Sorry that happened. Even if you got this going it will be a never ending problem. Dirty salt water isn't done wrecking things even if dry now,

T

Even if you could get it running, you really don't want that car any more. The electronic are just going to disintegrate and the problems will never stop. That's why insurance companies always total them. I doubt it will ever run again anyway. Computers don't survive being submerged in any water, especially salt water.