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Genuine
1997 Kia Sportage Exhaust Muffler Genuine

P311-561403D    New

Qty:
$205.25
Genuine Exhaust Muffler
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 10/1997-
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1997 - Kia Sportage
Genuine
1999 Kia Sportage Exhaust Muffler Genuine

P311-561403D    New

Qty:
$205.25
Genuine Exhaust Muffler
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Kia Sportage
Bosal
1999 Kia Sephia Exhaust Muffler Bosal

P311-4B34889    New

Qty:
$74.45
Bosal Exhaust Muffler
  • Production: 06/01/1999-, Between Rear Muffler and Catalytic Converter;
    Bosal warrants all exhaust systems parts against defects in workmanship and material when used on passenger cars & light trucks under normal operating conditions for 2 years. For further information visit: www.bosalnafta.com
  • This unit is between Rear Muffler and Catalytic Converter Bosal warrants all exhaust systems parts against defects in workmanship and material when used on passenger cars & light trucks under normal operating conditions for 2 years. For further information visit: www.bosalnafta.com
  • Front
Brand: Bosal
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1999 - Kia Sephia
Bosal
2001 Kia Sephia Exhaust Muffler Bosal

P311-4B34889    New

Qty:
$74.45
Bosal Exhaust Muffler
  • Between Rear Muffler and Catalytic Converter;
    Bosal warrants all exhaust systems parts against defects in workmanship and material when used on passenger cars & light trucks under normal operating conditions for 2 years. For further information visit: www.bosalnafta.com
  • This unit is between Rear Muffler and Catalytic Converter Bosal warrants all exhaust systems parts against defects in workmanship and material when used on passenger cars & light trucks under normal operating conditions for 2 years. For further information visit: www.bosalnafta.com
  • Front
Brand: Bosal
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2001 - Kia Sephia
Bosal
1995 Kia Sportage Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 2.0L Bosal

P311-08E9788    New

Qty:
$67.43
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Assemblies 95 KIA SPORTAGE
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine VIN Position Region
1995 - Kia Sportage L 1998 122 SOHC 1 Rear United States
Bosal
1998 Kia Sephia Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 1.8L Bosal

P311-0773B64    New

Qty:
$68.53
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers 98-01 KIA SEPHIA
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine VIN Position
1998 - Kia Sephia L 1793 - DOHC 5 Rear
Bosal
2001 Kia Sportage Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 2.0L Bosal

P311-19AB96A    New

Qty:
$98.48
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers 01-02 Kia Sportage 2
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Doors CC CID Position
2001 - Kia Sportage L 4 1998 122 Rear
Walker
2000 Kia Sportage Exhaust Muffler - N/A 4 Cyl 2.0L Walker

P311-02B5C48    New

Qty:
$62.93
Walker Exhaust Muffler  N/A
  • Before 5-00; Optional; SoundFX for 55201
  • Walker SoundFX Direct Fit Muffler
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automotive Item Grade: Oem Standard Part
    • Fitment: Direct Oe Replacement
    • Max Year Covered: 2000
    • Min Year Covered: 1998
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Kia Sportage
    • Most Popular Year: 2000
    • Muffler Body Height: 7.000
    • Muffler Body Length: 22.000
    • Muffler Body Material: Steel
    • Muffler Body Width: 9.000
    • Muffler Color / Finish: Aluminized
    • Muffler Inlet Configuration: Offset
    • Muffler Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Muffler Inlet Count: 1
    • Muffler Inlet Diameter 1: 2.000
    • Muffler Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Muffler Outlet Configuration: Offset
    • Muffler Outlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Muffler Outlet Count: 1
    • Muffler Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Muffler Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Muffler Overall Length: 56.000
    • Muffler Reversible: No
    • Muffler Shape: Oval
    • Muffler Type: Combination
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 45032
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Doors CC CID Position
2000 - Kia Sportage L 4 1998 122 N/A
Walker
1998 Kia Sportage Exhaust Muffler - N/A 4 Cyl 2.0L Walker

P311-02B5C48    New

Qty:
$62.93
Walker Exhaust Muffler  N/A
  • Optional; SoundFX for 55201
  • Walker SoundFX Direct Fit Muffler
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automotive Item Grade: Oem Standard Part
    • Fitment: Direct Oe Replacement
    • Max Year Covered: 2000
    • Min Year Covered: 1998
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Kia Sportage
    • Most Popular Year: 2000
    • Muffler Body Height: 7.000
    • Muffler Body Length: 22.000
    • Muffler Body Material: Steel
    • Muffler Body Width: 9.000
    • Muffler Color / Finish: Aluminized
    • Muffler Inlet Configuration: Offset
    • Muffler Inlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Muffler Inlet Count: 1
    • Muffler Inlet Diameter 1: 2.000
    • Muffler Inlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Muffler Outlet Configuration: Offset
    • Muffler Outlet Connection Type: 2 Bolt Welded Flange
    • Muffler Outlet Count: 1
    • Muffler Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Muffler Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Muffler Overall Length: 56.000
    • Muffler Reversible: No
    • Muffler Shape: Oval
    • Muffler Type: Combination
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 45032
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Doors CC CID Position
1998 - Kia Sportage L 4 1998 122 N/A
Bosal
2001 Kia Rio Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 1.5L Bosal

P311-321DF75    New

Qty:
$89.92
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers 01 KIA RIO
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2001 - Kia Rio L 1493 - Rear
Bosal
1994 Kia Sephia Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 1.6L Bosal

P311-10E2D41    New

Qty:
$61.84
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • VFM EXHAUST VFM Silencer 94-97 KIA SEPHIA
  • Value Line Item
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Position Region
1994 - Kia Sephia L 1597 - SOHC Rear United States
Bosal
2003 Kia Rio Exhaust Muffler 4 Cyl 1.6L Bosal

P311-0EA224D    New

Qty:
$56.88
Bosal Exhaust Muffler
  • Bosal Exhaust Front Pipes 03-05 Kia Rio 1.6L
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
2003 - Kia Rio L 1594 -
Bosal
1994 Kia Sephia Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 1.6L Bosal

P311-1BA7914    New

Qty:
$64.27
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers 94-7 KIA SEPHIA
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Position Region
1994 - Kia Sephia L 1597 - SOHC Rear United States
Bosal
1995 Kia Sephia Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 1.6L Bosal

P311-1BA7914    New

Qty:
$64.27
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers 94-7 KIA SEPHIA
  • Between Front Pipe and Converter
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Cylinder Head Type Engine VIN Position Region
1995 - Kia Sephia L 1597 - DOHC 3 Rear United States
Bosal
1999 Kia Sportage Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 2.0L Bosal

P311-1708851    New

Qty:
$66.88
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers 98-00 KIA SPORTAGE
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Doors CC CID Cylinder Head Type Position
1999 - Kia Sportage L 2 1998 122 DOHC Rear
Bosal
2001 Kia Sportage Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 2.0L Bosal

P311-15C1422    New

Qty:
$69.43
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers 01-02 Kia Sportage 2
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Doors CC CID Position
2001 - Kia Sportage L 2 1998 122 Rear
Bosal
2002 Kia Sedona Exhaust Muffler - Rear 6 Cyl 3.5L Bosal

P311-154FC38    New

Qty:
$138.61
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers Kia Sedona 02-03
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2002 - Kia Sedona V 3497 - Rear
Bosal
2006 Kia Rio Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 1.6L Bosal

P311-4D5FC01    New

Qty:
$77.37
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers 06-10 Hyun Acc.1.6 K
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2006 - Kia Rio L 1599 - Rear
Bosal
2006 Kia Rio5 Exhaust Muffler - Rear 4 Cyl 1.6L Bosal

P311-48E0A72    New

Qty:
$76.68
Bosal Exhaust Muffler  Rear
  • Bosal Exhaust Silencers 06-11 Kia Rio, Rio5
Brand: Bosal
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2006 - Kia Rio5 L 1599 - Rear
Walker
2004 Kia Magentis Exhaust Muffler - N/A 6 Cyl 2.7L Walker

P311-52E6854    New

Qty:
$93.30
Walker Exhaust Muffler  N/A
  • Premium - Limited Lifetime Warranty; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.
  • Walker Quiet-Flow Muffler
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automotive Item Grade: Oem Standard Part
    • Fitment: Direct Oe Replacement
    • Max Year Covered: 2006
    • Min Year Covered: 2001
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Kia Optima
    • Most Popular Year: 2004
    • Muffler Body Height: 5.500
    • Muffler Body Length: 19.000
    • Muffler Body Material: Steel
    • Muffler Body Width: 11.000
    • Muffler Color / Finish: Aluminized
    • Muffler Inlet Configuration: Body Side
    • Muffler Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Muffler Inlet Count: 1
    • Muffler Inlet Diameter 1: 2.000
    • Muffler Inlet Diameter Designation: Inside Diameter
    • Muffler Outlet Configuration: Offset
    • Muffler Outlet Connection Type: Tip - Welded Spout
    • Muffler Outlet Count: 1
    • Muffler Outlet Diameter: 2.000
    • Muffler Outlet Diameter Designation: Outside Diameter
    • Muffler Overall Length: 27.750
    • Muffler Reversible: No
    • Muffler Shape: Oval
    • Muffler Type: Combination
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 132919
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2004 - Kia Magentis V 2700 - N/A

Latest Kia Repair and Muffler Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Nitrous on 02 kia spectra

Showing 3 out of 30 Posts | Show 27 Hidden Posts
Question From tj02910 on Nitrous on 02 kia spectra

Hey, im thinking of putting a small amount of nitrous in my kia spectra ( 15-35 HP worth) . Is this reasonable. Also will i blow a gasket or need engine repair to do this im just trying to add more HP thanks

Response From Sidom

I think it's probably time to put this one to bed.

Response From amerillove

Well, If you want it to go faster, get a bigger rubber band.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

tj0; You can't be serious? It's a KIA, for God's sake. Just drive it. Keep the rpms down. If the timing belt breaks, it's over. Period. If you want a 'race' car, buy one. Oh, and that tomatoe can sized muffler doesn't do anything but annoy the neighbors.

Response From Sidom


tj0; You can't be serious? It's a KIA, for God's sake. Just drive it. Keep the rpms down. If the timing belt breaks, it's over. Period. If you want a 'race' car, buy one. Oh, and that tomatoe can sized muffler doesn't do anything but annoy the neighbors.





Oh man..... you really crack me up sometimes Loren.....

Response From Tom Greenleaf

How do you dismantle the air bag from your puter? LMAO so hard it blows up!

You guys are great - keep up the awesome work you do and I'll double your pay - LOL

Tom

Response From Sidom




You guys are great - keep up the awesome work you do and I'll double your pay


OH yea baby! Can anybody say winter house in the Bahamas..... Man I am so there

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Ok: 10 Times the pay - same math!

***************
Off topic - been to most islands in Caribbean and Caracas, VZ now ages ago. Not to Bahamas yet and too old and cranky to travel any more! LOL

Response From Sidom

I dunno Tom..... A little rum, a little sand between the toes & some sun ( I know the warm suns gotta be sounding good now ) and checking out the scenery.... Ya might not be so grumpy...........lol

And after the "big pay raise" kicks in...... Ya can come chill at my new beach house...........lmao

Response From Hammer Time

It's a nice place to visit but you wouldn't want to live there. I'm at the closest point to the US. West bank, Grand Bahama is 55 miles due east from me. Our boats head over there to fish a lot. The fishing is awesome over there.

Response From re-tired


It's a nice place to visit but you wouldn't want to live there. I'm at the closest point to the US. West bank, Grand Bahama is 55 miles due east from me. Our boats head over there to fish a lot. The fishing is awesome over there.
Whoa hold on somebody said the "F" word ............FISHING

Response From brager Top Rated Answer


tj0; You can't be serious? It's a KIA, for God's sake. Just drive it. Keep the rpms down. If the timing belt breaks, it's over. Period. If you want a 'race' car, buy one. Oh, and that tomatoe can sized muffler doesn't do anything but annoy the neighbors.


i did find it somewhat humarous why anyone would whant or think of doing such a thing if he does
he will need that nitrous on a impact gun when he blows the engine

Response From Ski

I have heard a lot of crazy things in my day but putting Noz on a kia has to take first prize!!!! & to think he got the boot for using the "A" word Awsome??

Response From stick

I have an '08 smart car that I plan on running the quarter mile with, any tips on a blower and can I run nitro methanol? What size rubber do you think I can fit on that baby?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

33X12.50X15 would be my recommendation.

Response From Sidom

Geeeeez Loren.....come on man, now you are showin your age......... Twenty twos!!!!! DUB

Response From stick

Boosting a kia's HP 15-20 horses would just about double it, wouldn't it?

Response From steve01832

Boosting a kia's HP 15-20 horses would just about double it, wouldn't it?

Probably make it illegal for street use.

Steve

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

No, not 22s, 33's man! That's what I had on my Dakota. All four studded, of course.

Response From Sidom


No, not 22s, 33's man! That's what I had on my Dakota. All four studded, of course.



So what'd ya run in the winter time????.......

Response From Hammer Time

So what'd ya run in the winter time????

half tracks..................

Response From Hammer Time

I have an '08 smart car that I plan on running the quarter mile with, any tips on a blower and can I run nitro methanol? What size rubber do you think I can fit on that baby?

Just check out Staples. They carry some pretty big rubber bands.

Response From tj02910

User banned for using profanity

Response From Hammer Time

I also agree with Loren. It's a KIA. If you want it to go faster, get a bigger rubber band.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

I wanted to see the profanity. Darned.

Response From Hammer Time

He called you a name that started with "A"

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Hmmm. Must be my middle name. LMAO

Response From way2old

ALMIGHTY??

Response From chickenhouse

AMOROUS??

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Articulate - is a swear word for knowing what you are doing!

T

'02 Kia Sportage 2.0 2 wheel drive, Needs a Crak Shaff Sensor

Showing 2 out of 17 Posts | Show 15 Hidden Posts
Question From dummy on '02 Kia Sportage 2.0 2 wheel drive, Needs a Crak Shaff Sensor

Can anyone tell me or/and send a picture showing where bouts the crank shaff sensor is located on my '02 Kia Sportage. I know it is on the driver side at the back where the motor and transmission joins. But there are a lot of plugs there and do not see a single plug in wire, just pig tails oy plugs......

Response From Hammer Time


Response From dummy

Oh my! It don't look exactly like that under my sportage.... When i slide up under there I see the trans oil plug and pan, rite across from that i have the universal joint thingy there then it looks like the sensor is there but when i follow it to the end it is all 2 gether in a pig tail with more than 1 snap in plug. I was taken for a $1875.89 ride from the garage and each time it was always something different that was wrong with it. My brother checked the engine soon codes and that was the only thing showing up that was bad. I am a female and I changed all my sensors myself with the help on here. Now just get the crankshaft sensor changed....

Response From dummy Top Rated Answer

ok, there in the clearing between the transmission fluid pan and the bracket, my muffler is running there.

Response From dummy

Does the sensor that bolts in place, bolt to the transmission?

Response From Hammer Time

It bolts to the bellhousing at about the 11 O'clock position right close to the block so it can read off the flywheel.

Response From dummy

mines an auto and it don't have a bellhousing, i believe a straight gear has that. I believe I found it. The part that bolts in is right behind my transmission dip stick, and it takes a 10 mm to get that bolt off. Had to take off my front driver side tire, and pull the mud shield, to get to it. It is a cramp up space to work with and it will take me a while to get it off. Then i just have to find where it plugs into.

Response From Hammer Time

This job is obviously beyond your ability and understanding so I suggest you have it repaired at a reputable shop.

Response From dummy

No I understood what you where saying, but the picture is not the way it looks under my sportage. I ended up calling The mechanics at the Kia dealership and they walk me thru it.

Response From dummy

but anyways I found it, with the help from you and the Kia mechanics.

Response From dummy

Do you have a picture showing where the crankshaft senor is with a 2.0l SOHC Fuel Injection motor?

Response From Hammer Time

I already gave you one.

Response From dummy

But there is no sensor, running from there.

Response From Hammer Time

Sounds like you just need to let someone else look at the car. That picture came directly from the service manual.

Response From dummy

The mechanic just left and he said theres a lot of crap that has to be taken off to get to it, and it would cost around $300.00 give or take...

Response From Hammer Time

You may have a different transmission but the sensor is in the area.

Response From dummy

Ok thank you, I will crawl back under it 2morrow and see if It is the crankshaft sensor.

05 VW Brake pads.

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From jayceevee24 on 05 VW Brake pads.

2005 Volkswagen Passat All-wheel drive Wagon 2.8 L V-6 70,000 miles. Can I just replace the brake pads ($175 at local mechanic), or do I have to replace the rotors too, as Volkswagen suggests ($1,000 at VW)? Pads are thin.

Response From Hammer Time

It needs to be inspected to answer that question but it's pretty standard for VWs to replace rotors with pads. They are engineered with softer metal for better friction and braking but that causes just as much wear to the rotors as the pads. If they are dished out, no question it needs them.

The prices sound a but excessive though it's possible. I did a BMW today that was $1000.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

>>I did a BMW today that was $1000.<<
Gotta love those European cars!

Response From steve01832

I'm sorry HT that you were subjected to such torture. I think you should get the rest of the week off with pay. I would rather put nitrous on a Kia then work on a beemer.

Steve

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

>>rather put nitrous on a Kia then work on a beemer. << Or deal with their owners.

Response From steve01832

Muffy, Muffy, the beemer is in the shop. I must take the Jaguar to go golfing.

Steve

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Ah, you understand what I meant. LOL. Just wonder what percentage of these 'types' are leased vs. owned?

Response From Hammer Time

Just wonder what percentage of these 'types' are leased vs. owned?

In my part of town, they are just spare cars that are left here all summer so they will have a car to drive when they come down here.

Response From Hammer Time

I would rather put nitrous on a Kia then work on a beemer.

You gotta get used to it in my part of town. Remember, my shop is right on the beach in a resort community. Everything's a Lexus, a Beemer or a Mercedes and the Lexus never breaks............ I hate em.

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

Where I live it's Hondas and Kias baby. Let's soup 'em up, chop 'em down, and listen to the angry swarm of bees due to their tomato soup can size mufflers. LMAO

Steve

Response From steve01832


Muffy, Muffy, the beemer is in the shop. I must take the Jaguar to go golfing.

This has to be said in the Thurston Howell III accent to get the full effect.

Steve

rack and pinion problem

Showing 3 out of 13 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From jackx on rack and pinion problem

My son in law is driving a 2009 Kia Borrego. He is telling me the steering
wheel is off center and keeps getting farther out of whack as time goes
by. I checked and it has rack and pinion.

His wife who is my daughter took it to a mechanic at midas muffler. He
wants to replace tie rod ends and the rack and pinion because it seemed
to be leaking a little. She really has no idea about anything and I hate
to see her taken advantage of.

Since guy told him it could cost 2,000+ and rebuilding the entire front end should not
cost that much I told him to take it to another guy I know for a second opinion.

Can the rack and pinion actually cause this problem. It is high dollar. I will hate to find
out it needs a new rack and pinion if it is just dirty and that it can be adjusted.

Response From Hammer Time

Steering systems don't usually go off center on their own. It's possible that the rack is moving in the bushings but it's more likely that something is rusted and broken or bent from impact.

I wouldn't be driving it until you get some accurate answers.

Response From kev2

you need a second opinion.... Suggest a independent (alignment) shop not a muffler shop

Response From jackx

Yeah it's at another shop. I did not tell her to take it to midas. Midas is close to
her house. The shop I told her to take it to does good work and I have used
them off and on for the last 10 years. They are very honest, reliable and reasonable.

I don't drive it and my son n law is a Russian so it is really hard to communicate
with about his car problems. I am feeling better since Hammertime said that the
rack and pinion is probably not be the source of the problem.

Kinda hard to figure out where the 2000 dollar estimate came from. Truck is not
worth more more than that. My daughter probably ran over something and bent
something. I will have a better idea in the next couple days.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It has to be looked at by the right shop that does this work and or affiliated with shops to do the alignment when fixed. That's what the scoop is where I am - doubt alone with these things.


Midas once was a "Muffler" shop only really but made their own pipes and think still do plus take on more and more out of their original game plan IMO a bit too far.


Finding the right comprehensive independent shop is what I suggest to folks. Some things will be dealer only and if you are a regular at a place should tell you just that.


It's a lost sport - know you shop, who is working on YOUR vehicle about like you would a doctor. It makes for a good understanding customer and shop AND the tech if happy say so - find out who pleased you.


Already said that if this problem is getting worse it's trouble and driving it at all probably not good! If just tire going slowly flat it would pull and send steering off till that made itself clear. Rule out what a car owner should be paying attention to, tire pressure is one. Matching tires and by wear counts but not getting worse at some rate IMO for this.


You are trying to help which is great. Locally I'm not too crazy about chain store repair places but doesn't mean the exact people you deal with at one are not totally qualified for what they do.


Get the right shop as if this was just a bent something I don't think it would be getting worse noticeably just from that?


T

Response From jackx Top Rated Answer

I know the mechanic that is looking at it. He went to school to become a mechanic.
He first worked at Firestone and then opened his own shop. He has the equipment to
align the front end. I have had him work on a lot of cars and I think he is about as
good as I could find unless I took it back to KIA.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Perfect - Nothing better than the personal contact and knowing WHO you are dealing with - not just some brand named place.


Off Topic - started first full time job at a Ford Dealer, credentials up the butt but place was losing it - insane owner. The other techs I wouldn't let grease the wheels of a shopping cart! In short the name doesn't tell is all I mean the exact tech does + how the place runs so I prefer independent shops.


So soon on my own, my own shop! Then you get to know people, the habits that might cause issues and if something is going to be costly know if they care or know to suggest moving on to another car - loved it that way.


That is missing from too much of everything out there whatever the biz.


Know a good plumber? I sure don't! What a horror show last idiot did to my house! Never mind,


Tom

Response From jackx

Talked to the mechanic. It needs a new $325 rack and pinion. He is going
to align the front end too another 80 plus $350 labor. That's about 3 or
4 hours. I have no idea what the book says as time required to put on a
rack and pinion. I know for an old fart like me it will take probably twice as
long.

I do want to pay him the going rate so he can stay in business.
I know it cost a lot for a shop to keep its doors open but I don't want him to get
ripped off. I figure he may be charging my daughter $100 more for labor
just because he knows he has my business because I have brought him a lot
of business and have told him I trust him. That's ok to a point.

Still better than the Midas $2000 quote they made to my
daughter. My daughter told me when another mechanic wanted to do the
quote the guy who ended up doing the quote shooed him off and told him "I got it".

I have seen that before when I was back in the shop when the mechanics were
discussing greasing my wheel bearings. I took it to them because of a special
they were running. One mechanic wanted the job because his bonus for the
prior week was bad and he thought he could talk me into speeding a lot more. He
said I will just tell him I need to rebuild the entire front end and do a complete
brake job. He said to the other mechanic "where is the owner I talk to him"
I said right over here. Just do the work I brought the car in for. After
hearing their conversation I have zero trust in anything they told me. The car
did not have that many miles on it and the tires were wearing fine and the brake
were not worn out.

In a shop you reputation is all you have. If you ever appear to be a clip
joint word will get out and you will go out of business and the mechanics
won't get any bonuses.

Response From Hammer Time

I'd be curious as to their explanation on how the rack is causing the steering wheel center position to change.

Response From jackx

I did my best to find out but my son in law is hard to understand because
he grew up in Russia.

I got really no where when i asked him other than the steering wheel was
not centered. I've never driven it.

The mechanic told me it drove like an old truck with worn out steering
problems. He said the steering wheel had a lot of slope in it because the
rack and pinion was screwed up..That's about all I could get out of him .
Sounds to me that driving it was causing him to wrestle with the steering
wheel like I had to do to drive old trucks years ago that did
not have power steering.

The rack and pinion might have a problem causing it not to circulate oil
under pressure to one side of the rack and pinion piston. That would cause it
to pull to the left or right and maybe that would be interpreted as not
the steering wheel is not centered because if you allowed it to it would turn the
steering wheel to center it when the wheel was actually trying to turn
the vehicle because of the stopped up valve. That's about all I can figure.

I know there are valves in the rack and pinion power steering unit that move
hydraulic fluid either in front or behind the rack and pinion to help you turn
the vehicle. The position of the steering wheel determines when each valve
passes fluid. the Fluid is fed form what I believe is a power steering pump.
I believe that a mechanic is supposed to determine if the pressure is sufficient
before he determines what is wrong. I assume my mechanic knew how to
diagnose the problem before he decided it needed a new rack and pinion unit.
guess I will know if the new rack and pinion does not fix it. Anyway I figured he
knew more about diagnosing it that I did. So, I did not question him about it.

Response From jackx

Finally got the rack and pinion installed. Since it is one of the few Borrego's that Kia made
it is almost impossible to get parts for without getting your order becoming back ordered at
autozone or Napa or Oreilly. I order a rebuilt one from Rockauto. They have a R&R deal with
A1Cardone. I boxed it up and sent the rack and pinion to Harlington Texas where A1Cardone is
and they rebuilt it back to factory Specs. That fixed it.

It did not even need an outer tie rod end. Cost my daughter $580 bucks which is a lot better than
paying Midas where she first took it the $1900 that they quoted her to fix it.

I have my fingers crossed. The mechanic said it was repaired well and has the same stamps
on it that the rack and pinions have that he gets from Autozone so he thinks it is a good reconditioned
unit. It does have a 3 year warranty with A1Cardone. Since Napa used A1Cardone i believe they
are a good company to get parts from.

Just wanted to get back and tell everyone the outcome.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Things sounding much better - great.


How long with now about a 9 year old vehicle (could be) a job takes by the book is out the window as I see it. Some just will take more time and tools to fight with stuff you don't for the first few years where I am if cars/vehicles are driven in the damg acidic, most corrosive salted road plastic RUSTS! It washes grease out of things if it can.


Not funny but a shop I've been associated with for ages (alignments) the dang probably $100K machine needs new ramps just from the salted clots that fall off vehicles!


Ask a tech if you go off topic would they do this trade all over again if they could hit the "reset" button? Most will say NO! NEVER!


It's costly and takes time to learn it which is ever changing never mind tools - never enough and always need something more. That's on the tech if a hand tool and on the shop if larger stuff - both cost just sitting there plus rent/taxes/insurance and a list of other mandatory costs per month whether you work or not. Brutal.


Give them their due and expect all things fair both ways. A good trade person doesn't need to pad a bill. There's enough crap in need out there you shouldn't have to think like that.


Sounds much better. Said I'm not thrilled with chain auto repair joints yet some can be excellent. IMO less chance though?


Tom

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"He said, She said" isn't going to work. It should go for a REAL alignment where all is checked (should be or can't align it) and end up with a "centered" steering wheel. That's protocol for an alignment OR tell you what's worn or too bad to get a good alignment,


T

Hurricane Sandy Flooded Mom's 04 Kia Optima. Please help

Showing 5 out of 16 Posts | Show 11 Hidden Posts
Question From 2pac on Hurricane Sandy Flooded Mom's 04 Kia Optima. Please help

Hey,
my family "lost" 2 cars due to hurricane Sandy. Both were parked in our driveway and had about 2-3 feet of water. From what i saw it reached the seats but not glovebox as everything inside was dry. I evacuated so I didn't see where exactly the water hit but I've been working on 1 of the cars which is my moms 2004 Kia Optima LX 6cylinder. My dad tried to start it up right away but thank g-d it didn't as I have read time and time again don't start a flooded car until you inspect critical parts first.
(I should preface by saying i'm a novice with fixing cars just trying to help my folks) There appeared to be no water in the engine or transmission as I checked the dipsticks and no signs of water. the air filter had a little bit of fuel in the tray, so I flushed the engine oil and replaced with 5 quarts. I checked 3 spark plugs (i can't get to other 3, seems difficult) which are a bit old but there was no signs of water in there but there was a smell of gasoline coming from the engine. I'm not sure what caused this as the car was never started after the flood came in . I also jacked the car up to drain water from the muffler. After this and replacing oil and oil filter I tried starting the car. It cranks and feels like it's about to start but doesn't. After I attempt to start, water still drips slightly from muffler and the oil filter would leak oil (I did some reading and o-ring is in place). I feel like I'm really close to getting it to work but now after leaving the car overnight I took out the new oil filter and it has a smell of gasoline and the dipstick does too. Can anyone recommend what I could potentially do? Detailed instructions or links to a diagram would be of more help as I am a novice. We are on a tight budget as is after losing our whole basement due to the storm and I'm aware the car may have long term problems, I just want to get it up and running now to give my mom a few months to get back up on her feet. Surprisingly most of the eletrical components still work, power windows, odometer, it tells me when my door is open, fuel level, all lights and blinkers work, and lock/unlock doors work.

any help would be appreciated!
Thanks

Response From Discretesignals

You stated the water got up to the seats in the KIA? Flood cars can have numerous electrical problems since connectors, wiring, and modules can have water intrusion. More than likely the PCM got water intrusion since it sits behind the center console. The problem is the salt water will corrode all the electrical connections causing all sorts of weird problems.

Have you contacted you insurance company? More than likely they will total the vehicle.

Response From 2pac

I appreciate the responses guys. unfortunately, we don't have full coverage otherwise i wouldn't have attempted to fix. I understand that the car will be a headache and most likely die quickly but quite frankly we've got so many things we're dealing including a basement that got 5 feet of water in it that we don't have the time or resources right now to buy a used car which i hear are selling for inflated prices due to the new demand. Ideally, i'm looking to spend $100 or so and get a month or two out of the car if i can just to get though these rough times, which is why i'm turning to you guys for advice. my neighbor was able to get his car workin minus a few shorts, but that would be fine by me.

My main problems are this:
1) why would gasoline fuel get in to the air filter and engine if the car was fine before the storm and was never started since? no water got in to either engine or air filter. i changed oil and it seems to have gone in again(please refer to my first post for details)

2) would water in muffler cause the car to not start? if so how do i drain it completely? i tried jacking up the car and only got some out.

3) can the main computer be bad if all electrical components of car seem to work? odometer shows digital miles, fuel level, door open when its open and power windows and locks work.

Response From Sidom

Thats a bad deal, I feel for you. It's a tough spot....

This is a tough one to do online because we really don't know what the deal is with the car and going off previous history with "flood" cars, this really doesn't look good..

I know you're gonna keep trying so what you need to do is get your hands on a cheap code reader and see if you have any kind of communication with the PCM. No communication and you are pretty much done.

Go ask the neighbor to give you a hand and take a quick look at it....

Response From re-tired

First let me say thank you for evacuatng. I spent about a decade in US Coast Guard aviation. Retrieving the remains of those who rode it out or were just at the wrong place at wrong time was not a pleasent memory. NOW about your car. In the height of the storm and sometime after, a lot of stuff became submerged. underground storage tanks and gas and oil from lawnmowers ,construction equip and such. Grease and battery acid. And sadly remains of desceased humans and animals.I saw it all while hovering over the mess . Imagine taking a swimming pool .Put everything from under your sinks and garage , some rotten food ,couple gallons of gas and oil and lastly a bucket of septic waste. NOW add car ,just up to seats, mix well . Everything rubbber is going to rot in months.l Your brakes have soaked up this mess and are useless.THe smell seems to be everywhere because it IS everywhere. You may get it to run.But in a few months who will want to ride with you? JUST ANOTHER POINT OF VIEW

Response From 2pac

I really appreciate all your input. Like I said, I'm not trying to fool you guys in to thinking I'm going to get the car started and it will live it's normal life. We're just so busy cleaning up from this mess and my mom is depressed she can't leave at her own will because she has no car. I just want to get it going for a month or two tops just so we can get the more important things sorted out first and then search for a car.


I'm still confused as to what can cause some gasoline to get in to the air filter and engine and again after i changed oil. I've read about this happening with people driving through floods and pistons getting bent etc, but i never started my car during and since the flood.

Sidom, I do happen to have one of those bluetooth OBDII scanners that i can use with my phone with an app but this is my first time using but when i tried pairing it and connecting it wouldn't connect. the program gave me an error saying make sure engine is on, maybe the ignition. not quite sure. hard for me to work on the car with a dead battery and keep swapping out my battery, but i'm stubborn and for only personal gratification, i'd to like to get it started at the very least.

I do know there are used computers for under $100 on ebay. I happened to run across this link deleted ................. please read rules
which sounds similar to my problem. anyone know if a bad computer can cause the gas to get in to the engine and air filter?

Response From re-tired




I'm still confused as to what can cause some gasoline to get in to the air filter and engine and again after i changed oil. I've read about this happening with people driving through floods and pistons getting bent etc, but i never started my car during and since the flood.


As I stated before . The storm surge has gas and other products mixed in it. This storm water did not gently rise up in your car.It was driven by 75+ mph winds . It was blown thru your grille. Into ducts and the intake system , down open valves . It has soaked into any foam seals, and is in every nook ands cranny. You will never get rid of the gas smell.

Response From Sidom

Yea it really doesn't look good......It sounds like you have no communication, this is why you are getting errors......You should pull codes on a known good car with your app to make sure you know how to use it & then try again, but it sounds like the PCM is gone...

Do what DS suggested & open it up......The problem here is,,,, with it being shorted out due to being wet, when the car was cranked over would be enough to fry the PCM. Go grab a couple cans of electrical cleaner......clean it out & dry in real good, go thru the engine compartment, open up all the electrical connecters you can find & clean those out as well.....

You do realize this is an exercise in futility but I get it......I'd do the same thing but just don't let this take up your time for other important stuff.....

I've seen people have success in stuff before when they didn't realize it was an impossible chore.....Once you know it's impossible.....you're done....

Good luck

Response From Hammer Time

You can't simply buy a used computer and plug it in. They are personally programmed including the VIN # of the car. Apparently you just aren't listening or don't believe what you are being told. The car is toast. Just burn your money. You will accomplish just as much.

Response From 2pac

I understand very well what's been told to me and i know full well the car won't give me any usable life. I tend to be stubborn and was hoping i could get mine started like my neighbor did to his. I was not aware that the computer is personally programmed for that unique vehicle with VIN # . Unfortunately i can't post links, apparently, but i was just passing information that i found doing a google search on someone who had similar problems as mine and bought a used computer and it solved his problem .You're the expert, so then if it can't be done...

Response From Hammer Time

The life expectancy of your starter is probably down to days now.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

I would pull the PCM out and open it up. Check for water intrusion. Also inspect the PCM connectors. See how bad it is. Remove the carpet in the vehicle and check all the electrical connectors. Disconnect the battery while you doing that. See how well a KIA computer is sealed.

Response From Discretesignals

If the powertrain controller had been submerged in salt water there is no telling what kind of problems it will cause. It could be running the pump and holding an injector(s) open causing a flooding condition. The water could have gotten into a connector and is shorting out circuits. The salinity of salt water makes it a very good conductor.

Water in the muffler probably wouldn't cause a no start because water will get pushed out of the exhaust system when the engine is running.

The powertrain controller normally doesn't have anything to do with the functions of the electrical system such as lighting and other interior accessories. The powertrain controller's main function is to control the operation of the engine and transmission electrical components.

Another thing you have to be aware of is the SIR system. If the SIR controller or other components have been submerged in salty water, there is a chance the system could inadvertently deploy the air bags.

Response From Hammer Time

Water in the muffler isn't preventing the car from starting and $100 is not going to get this car running. You could spend more like $1,000 to even get it to fire and that may be only temporary before it eats another $1,000 and then another $1,000.

Computers don't work after being submerged in water and all the wiring fails shortly after.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Sorry that happened. Even if you got this going it will be a never ending problem. Dirty salt water isn't done wrecking things even if dry now,

T

Response From Hammer Time

Even if you could get it running, you really don't want that car any more. The electronic are just going to disintegrate and the problems will never stop. That's why insurance companies always total them. I doubt it will ever run again anyway. Computers don't survive being submerged in any water, especially salt water.