Finish Selecting Your Vehicle to Shop For Your Muffler

Choose a Year for your Hummer 's Muffler

  • 2006
  • 2005
  • 2004
  • 2003

Shop By Brand

The Following brands are available based on your search.

  • Walker
    Walker

Best Selling Genuine Hummer Mufflers

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Walker
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Hummer Replacement Muffler Parts

We stock Muffler parts for most Hummer models, including H2.

Walker
2005 Hummer H2 Exhaust Muffler - N/A 8 Cyl 6.0L Walker

P311-2435302    New

Qty:
$81.23
Walker Exhaust Muffler  N/A
  • Premium - Limited Lifetime Warranty; If welded assembly, replace all required parts.; Single Outlet Replaces Dual
  • Walker Quiet-Flow SS Muffler
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automotive Item Grade: Oem Standard Part
    • Fitment: Direct Oe Replacement
    • Max Year Covered: 2006
    • Min Year Covered: 2001
    • Most Popular Make / Model: Gmc Yukon
    • Most Popular Year: 2003
    • Muffler Body Height: 7
    • Muffler Body Length: 24
    • Muffler Body Material: Stainless Steel
    • Muffler Body Width: 9
    • Muffler Color / Finish: Aluminized
    • Muffler Inlet Configuration: Offset
    • Muffler Inlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Muffler Inlet Count: 2
    • Muffler Inlet Diameter 1: 2 1/2
    • Muffler Inlet Diameter Designation: Inside Diameter
    • Muffler Outlet Configuration: Offset
    • Muffler Outlet Connection Type: Pipe Connection
    • Muffler Outlet Count: 1
    • Muffler Outlet Diameter: 2 5/8
    • Muffler Outlet Diameter Designation: Inside Diameter
    • Muffler Overall Length: 28
    • Muffler Reversible: No
    • Muffler Shape: Oval
    • Muffler Type: Combination
    • Product Grade: Economy
    • Total Part VIO: 331107
Brand: Walker
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID Position
2005 - Hummer H2 V 5967 364 N/A

Latest Hummer Repair and Muffler Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2006 chevy 1500

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From alienshadow on 2006 chevy 1500

2006 Chevy 1500 work truck 4.3. engine... I was wondering if anyone could help me out? When I shift my truck from park to drive I hear a loud noise during shift if I go back to reverse it sounds loud to.. But from reverse back to drive it sounds like its going to fall out any ideas?? Thanks..Oh I am not sure what model transmission I have in it.. Also when driving its shifts normal and smooth..

Response From Hammer Time

Is this a loud, tinny SNAP sound?
Do you have an aluminum driveshaft?

Response From alienshadow

Hammer I am not sure.. I have it set to go in the shop in the morning.. I have searched the net for a tsb and found one.. They really just say no issue deal with it.. My problem is it just started today so oh well right? Also I did tow my trailor this weekend but its only a 5x8 and 1 riding mower and a push mower on it thats it no more than 1200 to 1500 lbs tell me for sure this truck can handle that load???? As for hearing the noise I am just pressing the brake and shifting at a stand still... How do I tell if its alumium?

Response From Hammer Time

The driveshaft will be silver in color and wider than usual if it's aluminum. I have seen a few that made a loud snap when shifted and it was due to an inner tube inside the driveshaft that comes loose and slaps against the outer housing when shifted. It's just one idea I've seen before.

Response From alienshadow

Its not alumium I just crawled under it looks a little rusty... Anyway could it possibly be the u joints?? I am sick of car problems I can tell you that that was my whole purpose in buying a newer truck.. I am open for any ideas because I know how these things work inder warranty I want it fixed correctly..

Response From Hammer Time

U-joints aren't known for loud banging noises. They can give a small snap when shifted or a repeating chirping noise when accelerating along with a high pitched vibration whenever accdelering at higher speeds.. It's easy to tell. Crawl under with a good light and get a real close up look and look for any red powder oozing out of any of the caps. If you see any, you have a bad joint. You could also have a broken trans mount or bad pinion bearing too.

Response From alienshadow

Hammer are those easy fixes?? Also me towing wouldnt have caused this would it??

Response From Hammer Time

There are varying degrees of everything. U-joints are a couple hundred bucks if the driveshaft has not been damaged. A pinion bearing has a lot of open doors so that has the potential to get pricey. I doubt you did anything by towing it.

Response From alienshadow

Glad I have a 30 day warranty and I am glad I bought the extended warranty...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Alien - this too shall pass. Glad you bought the warranty on this. It's fairly new in my book and a truck should be able to easily tow the weight mentioned.

I think already said but just grab the driveshaft just sitting there and see if anything moved when jockeying it and twisting it. Tell tale rust dust at the U-joints does mean they are bad. When very bad they show movement. Can crackle and snap putting in gear and vibrate under certain load conditions if it's that at all. If a rear diff issue it could be involved. Not known to me as being a lot of trouble with any of them. I don't know this year well but even a dumb driveshaft has its engineering. It probably has two U-joints and is rubber isolated like a harmonic balancer but not sure on that.

With warranty don't be taking anything apart - let the place deal with it. You can do some checks and taking a driveshaft out is the best way to inspect it and not all that hard but don't.

Last U-joints I did were NOT very expensive to buy - even quality ones. Can't say as by chance not one now for ages??

Been out of doing this as biz since before this truck was made but doubt anyone re-invented the wheel. I do still tend to family and too many of my own. It'll work out,

T

Response From alienshadow Top Rated Answer

Here is what they said my problem is... Also they did fix my vibration from the exhaust system they put a flex pipe underneath somwhere towards the front side of the muffler any way see below...

Subject: Information on Driveline Clunk Noise When Shifting Between PARK and DRIVE, PARK and REVERSE or DRIVE and REVERSE #99-04-20-002D - (06/08/2006)



Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks

2007 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3

2005-2007 Saab 9-7X




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-20-002C (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Important: The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with the following previous bulletins:

• Info - Discontinue Flushing and Replacing Transfer Case Fluid Due to Bump/Clunk Concern (Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004A or newer).

• Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke) (Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004B or newer).


Some owners of vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse. Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.

Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.

The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.

For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.

In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:

• Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components.

Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.

• While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Alien - Is this to say they stop at calling this NORMAL? I understand what "lash" is and it's necessary slip joint not to be so dang tight they won't slip as needed in about all vehicles. I'm dismayed that GM has made trucks since forever and all of a sudden goes brain dead as ones from the 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s didn't universally have this issue.

Now I doubt there's a problem with U-joints as you did your homework and found the bulletin you posted. WTF - no wonder they needed a bailout!

I own a 97 C/K 2500 4X4 with 49K now and it doesn't do that at all. It rides like it has NO suspension without a load which is near always but it's not meant to ride like a Cadillac. That I can understand. My fault - I bought something more HD than I needed. This normal lash can be toned down by the way you make the driveshaft. If it's a noise enough that you and others as the bulletin suggests think something is wrong I'm just ticked that GM could let that go as normal.

This if normal could be reduced by dampening the longest driveshaft. If you tap on that one to the rear and it rings it's just making any lash noise sound louder. That's an engineering boo boo. Maybe we should all give up and go back to horses!

T

Response From alienshadow

Tom Thanks yes I bought the truck from CarMax I cant complain on their service but they will send you away if the TSB says to do so as the one above did.. Like I said drive it until it falls out if that happens and then let them worry about it.. Thats why I bought the extended warranty.. Yes you guys have helped me more than you know...

Response From alienshadow

Just my luck after new tires the same issue then i read this...Man oh Man...




#PIT3009L: Suspension Vibration Or Frame Beaming At 40-60 MPH (64-80 KM/H) - keywords front rear shake shock spring tire - (Dec 3, 2009)


Subject: Suspension Vibration or Frame Beaming at 40-60 mph (64 - 80 km/h)


Models: 1999-2009 Chevrolet Silverado and Silverado Classic

1999-2009 GMC Sierra and Sierra Classic
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
Beam shake vibration is usually felt in the seat and occurring at speeds between 40-50 mph (64 - 80 km/h). Hertz readings using an EVA tool are normally between 8-24 Hz. This condition is most common on extended cab and crew cab models but has also been noted in other models.

Recommendation/Instructions:
The severity of beam shake may vary from vehicle to vehicle. To determine if the concern is beam shake, please perform the following:

•Test drive vehicle to confirm the condition. A beam shake condition will usually respond to concrete type pavements more than asphalt, so the vehicle should be driven over both surfaces if possible.
•Place 200-500 pounds in the pickup bed between the closed tailgate and the wheel wells. A beaming condition should dissipate.
Note: Tires with excessive Radial Force Variation (RFV) or out-of-roundness can intensify the frame beaming concern. The following radial force variation numbers should be used as a guide:

P-Metric tires (2wd 1500)
12 lbs or less

P-Metric tires (all others)
24 lbs or less

LT-tires
30 lbs or less


If the concern is determined to be beam shake, this is a characteristic of the vehicle. GM Engineering has released updated body mounts to reducing this concern for the Crew and Extended Cab Models. There will be no changes made to the Regular Cab Models.

FOR CREW AND EXTENDED CAB MODELS, REPLACE THE REAR CAB MOUNTS WITH UPDATED PARTS LISTED BELOW. THESE PARTS SHOULD NOT BE USED ON REGULAR CAB MODELS.

Note: 2009 1500 MODELS (WITHOUT RPO Z83) ALREADY HAVE THESE NEW BODY MOUNTS. DO NOT REPLACE THE BODY MOUNTS ON THESE VEHICLES FOR THIS ISSUE.

New upper and lower mounts should be installed at the left and right rear cab position. The new LOWER mount is a two piece design, meaning there is a rubber mount with a metal washer. Some models may use a one piece lower mount, meaning the rubber mount has a metal washer molded into it. If the vehicle has the one piece lower mount design, washers (PN 15854745, Qty 2) will be needed to be used with the new lower mount.

Note: Some new body mounts may have an oily film covering them. This oily film may be left on the mounts during the assembly process and does not indicate a faulty mount. Do not replace the mount for this issue.

Upper Mount 25791031 Qty 2 (DO NOT USE ON 2009 1500 MODELS WITHOUT RPO Z83, see note above)

Lower Mount 25791032 Qty 2 (DO NOT USE ON 2009 1500 MODELS WITHOUT RPO Z83, see note above)

Washer 15854745 Qty 2 (if needed)

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

Response From alienshadow

Tom you think Roy Rodgers would come back and teach us how to do it? I mean I dont need the inside of my thighs to rub raw on no horse lmao......

But yeah weird how they push the consumer away when there is an issue.. I couldnt believe the tech came at me with this lol oh well I will drive it like it is until it falls out...

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Quote: ">>But yeah weird how they push the consumer away when there is an issue"


Reading between the lines you weren't given this vehicle and bought it from a buisiness. When in biz for whatever if you don't put the customer first then you will lose your reputation and probably go out of biz unless somehow you are a monopoly.

Sears Roebuck & Company pre dates us all. They were the #World retailer with a bold sign over the entrance door saying "Satisfaction Guaranteed" and may have said or your money back.

Sam Walton - the original started Walmart now I think still the world's #1 retailer with the same concepts.

GM is huge and knows how to build vehicles. Why a flaw can get out is beyond my comprehension but it does happen with them and all the others too.

We are a collection of volunteer pretty damn high end techs here - free to use this site. If this is in fact and looks like it, a flaw in engineering that is just annoying but safe than fine. There are other truck makers that would love to have you own theirs.

Never mind the computer and the sites. I bet in the "Owner's Manual" of the truck there's a phone #. I have and would again spoken by chance was about a GM issue. Took a while but did get to department heads of engineering about a flaw I noticed and documented.

If need be call them directly. If they don't care about especially a repeat customer of their products than screw them for your next vehicle if you wish.

It's clear - you've tried on this and other issues at this site. Speaking for myself I'll help you if this still needs to be resolved somehow,

Tom