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MTC
1991 Nissan NX Engine Mount 4 Cyl 1.6L MTC

P311-3C5FB8D    W0133-1618113  New

Qty:
$106.65
MTC Engine Mount
  • Production: 11/01/1990-
  • This is the engine mount at the front of the engine block (RH side of the engine compartment). The bracket attached to this mount is not included (reuse or order from the dealer).
  • Right
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1991 - Nissan NX L 4 Cyl 1.6L 97 1597 Fr:11-01-90
MTC
1993 Nissan Sentra Engine Mount MTC

P311-3C5FB8D    W0133-1618113  New

Qty:
$106.65
MTC Engine Mount
  • This is the engine mount at the front of the engine block (RH side of the engine compartment). The bracket attached to this mount is not included (reuse or order from the dealer).
  • Right
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
1993 - Nissan Sentra GXE
MTC
1999 Nissan Sentra Engine Mount 4 Cyl 1.6L MTC

P311-3C5FB8D    W0133-1618113  New

Qty:
$106.65
MTC Engine Mount
  • Production: -12/31/1999
  • This is the engine mount at the front of the engine block (RH side of the engine compartment). The bracket attached to this mount is not included (reuse or order from the dealer).
  • Right
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1999 - Nissan Sentra L 4 Cyl 1.6L 97 1597 To:12-31-99
MTC
1991 Nissan Sentra Engine Mount MTC

P311-3C5FB8D    W0133-1618113  New

Qty:
$106.65
MTC Engine Mount
  • Production: 07/01/1990-
  • This is the engine mount at the front of the engine block (RH side of the engine compartment). The bracket attached to this mount is not included (reuse or order from the dealer).
  • Right
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN Prod. Date Range
1991 - Nissan Sentra E Fr:07-01-90
MTC
1991 Nissan NX Engine Mount 4 Cyl 2.0L MTC

P311-3DE6911    W0133-1613699  New

Qty:
$46.11
MTC Engine Mount
  • Production: 11/01/1990-
  • This is the engine mount at the front of the engine block (RH side of the engine compartment). The bracket attached to this mount is not included (reuse or order from the dealer).
  • Right
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1991 - Nissan NX L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1998 Fr:11-01-90
MTC
1994 Nissan Sentra Engine Mount 4 Cyl 2.0L MTC

P311-3DE6911    W0133-1613699  New

Qty:
$46.11
MTC Engine Mount
  • This is the engine mount at the front of the engine block (RH side of the engine compartment). The bracket attached to this mount is not included (reuse or order from the dealer).
  • Right
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1994 - Nissan Sentra L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1998
MTC
1999 Nissan Sentra Engine Mount 4 Cyl 2.0L MTC

P311-3DE6911    W0133-1613699  New

Qty:
$46.11
MTC Engine Mount
  • Production: -12/31/1999
  • This is the engine mount at the front of the engine block (RH side of the engine compartment). The bracket attached to this mount is not included (reuse or order from the dealer).
  • Right
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
1999 - Nissan Sentra L 4 Cyl 2.0L - 1998 To:12-31-99
MTC
1991 Nissan Sentra Engine Mount MTC

P311-3DE6911    W0133-1613699  New

Qty:
$46.11
MTC Engine Mount
  • Production: 08/01/1990-
  • This is the engine mount at the front of the engine block (RH side of the engine compartment). The bracket attached to this mount is not included (reuse or order from the dealer).
  • Right
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Prod. Date Range
1991 - Nissan Sentra SR20DE Fr:08-01-90
MTC
1992 Nissan Sentra Engine Mount MTC

P311-3DE6911    W0133-1613699  New

Qty:
$46.11
MTC Engine Mount
  • Production: -06/30/1992
  • This is the engine mount at the front of the engine block (RH side of the engine compartment). The bracket attached to this mount is not included (reuse or order from the dealer).
  • Right
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Prod. Date Range
1992 - Nissan Sentra SR20DE To:06-30-92
Beck Arnley
2006 Nissan Sentra Engine Mount - Front Right 4 Cyl 1.8L Beck Arnley

P311-241DD3B    104-1671  New

Qty:
$55.67
Beck Arnley Engine Mount  Front Right
  • ENGINE MOUNT
  • Beck/Arnley parts meet foreign nameplate OE specifications for form, fit and function. Our product specialists work with a network of global sourcing partners so you can install the right part with confidence.
Brand: Beck Arnley
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Nissan Sentra Front Right L 4 Cyl 1.8L - 1769

Latest Nissan Repair and Motor Mount Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2009 Nissan Altima Rough Idle

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From Tom64 on 2009 Nissan Altima Rough Idle

I have a 2009 Nissan Altima 2.5..Just recently it started idling very rough when in drive at low rpm, like when stopped in traffic or at a light. The problem is not there when car is in Park, Neutral, or Reverse.
Is this a sign that the throttle position is going bad ?

Thanks - Tom

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

An 09 is still fairly new but depending on the mileage, if it's at or over 100k it might be a good idea to rule out hardened motor mounts as a problem...

Just jack up the engine with a floor jack & block of wood, just enough to get the engine off the mounts, don't pick up the car this way. If the rough idle problem goes away with the engine supported then you have some bad motor mounts....

Response From Hammer Time

No, not really. Is there any check engine light coming on ever?

Response From Hammer Time

Go get the codes read and post the numbers here.

Response From Tom64

Had the codes read.."P0744" - "Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Intermittent"

Took it to two diferent places, got the same code both times.

But - I drove the car at least 40 miles today, in heavy traffic - and it ran great, no rough idle, my wife drove it home from work,
and the symptoms are gone..

Any idea's ?? Thanks in advance..

Response From Hammer Time

That code has nothing to do with engine operation. It's an overdrive code for the transmission.

Response From Discretesignals

Could be an engine mount grounding out.

Response From Tom64

OK..The "Service Engine Soon" light came on today..

Response From Tom64

No - there's no check engine light.

2002 Nissan Quest GLE - Shakes beyond 60MPH

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 2002 Nissan Quest GLE - Shakes beyond 60MPH

2002 Nissan Quest GLE - Shakes beyond 60MPH
Steering wheel as well as seats in rear also shake.
What could be the possible cause?

Response From Guest

Check your fuel injector. My dad's car did the same thing when it reached the 60-70 region. We thought it was something really serious, but it was the fuel injector failing to feed a steady flow of gasoline to the engine. It wasn't a cheap fix but it did solve the problem.

Wish you the best!

Response From dave284

There could be several things to cause this....need to check front wheel bearings/ tie rod ends, an out of balance tire or wheel alignment could also cause this.

Response From Guest

I got it checked from an authorized mechanic workshop just before buying and they took almost 2 hours for checking each and everything but they only told me that there are 4 things -
1) One of the Engine Mount needs to be changed - though it is not must do at this time
2) Rear brake pad needs to be changed as they are at -5%
3) Transmission oil needs to be flushed
4) Time Belt needs to be changed

Can any one of the above cause this problem of Vibration. Pls advice.

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

I don't believe that any of those would cause the steering wheel to shake, although a bad motor mount would cause vibration at anytime, I suggest having the front tires checked out and parts of suspension too...again.

Response From Guest

I got it checked from an authorized mechanic workshop just before buying and they took almost 2 hours for checking each and everything but they only told me that there are 4 things -
1) One of the Engine Mount needs to be changed - though it is not must do at this time
2) Rear brake pad needs to be changed as they are at -5%
3) Transmission oil needs to be flushed
4) Time Belt needs to be changed

Can any one of the above cause this problem of Vibration. Pls advice.

maxima water pump

Showing 3 out of 6 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From milling machine on maxima water pump

I am changing a water pump on a 2000 nissan maxima, air, automatic,v-6, 3000 twin cam 24 valve. I have to remove the passenger side motor mount, but cannot find any place to hook-up my hoist chain or is it possible to just use a floor jack under the oil pan without distorting the pan or causing the oil pan gasket to leak ?

Response From milling machine

I changed the water pump out ok, but I have another question do you fill the tensioner with oil when you install it or just let it fill up on its own ?

Response From Dieselrotor

Bammm, Yes I remembor this engine now, So sorry. There is actually three chains, and a two part chain thensioner.
the tensioner is to the left if looking at it from the front. the tensioner and the guide. there is still a trick,though pretty laimen, with the valve covers off, vice grips can hold the cams. anytime timing is an issue, it should be done right though and You take You're chances doing it shadetree style.

Response From milling machine

I solved the motor mount problem,but now have another question. I have the cover off of the timing chain tensioner and I can wiggle the plastic part of the tensioner sideways, and this is with the timing chain on normally how it should be. Does anyone know if this is normal ?

Response From Dieselrotor

If I have a mental picture of what You are talking about, It's been a long time since I have done one.
Are You talking about a flat piece that has what appears to be very small flare out's at the ends and sits on would be the outside of the belt ? if it is what I am thinking, Movemant is normal. Are You also since tension is being taken off the belt, replaceing the timing belt too with the water pump. Rule of thumb, replace the belt with pump. There is a tool to kepp the timing in place while replaceing belt, can be done without but pay seroius attention to location of sprockets and a couple pair of vice grips will help along with a long 3/8 punch and a white or yellow paint pen.
It is a little difficult, but someone seriuos about doing it with a little attention can do it. You sound as if You are willing to do it right and if that is the case, You will be fine.

Response From milling machine Top Rated Answer

Thanks for the answer, this engine has a chain and is extremely hard to work on.

Engine vibration

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From wiz420 on Engine vibration

I have a 94 Nissan Maxima and the engine vibrates when the car idles in drive and reverse . I have replaced one of the fuel injectors,o2 sensor,egr temp sensor,egr valve . What could the problem be ?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

A motor mount perhaps??

T

1997 Nissan altima radiator leak problem

Showing 4 out of 24 Posts | Show 20 Hidden Posts
Question From bball_1523 on 1997 Nissan altima radiator leak problem

Year of vehicle: 1997
Make of vehicle: Nissan
Model of vehicle: Altima
Engine size (2.0/ 5.7) : Not sure, but it's 4-cylinder
Mileage/Kilometers: not sure, I think around 19-20 mpg
Mileage reading: somewhere over 114,000

When I went to get an oil change at Valvoline sometime last week, one mechanic told me that I need to get a radiator hose replaced because they said the radiator was leaking from there. I declined to get it fixed, and took my car to an official Nissan dealer and they diagnosed a slew of problems.

Here is what Nissan says I need to get fixed, and it all adds up to around $2708.90:

1) Intake gaskets leaking
2) radiator leaking: upper radiator, and hose
3) 3 motor mounts broken
4) brake flush
5) power steering fluid flush
6) fuel induction service
7) fuel injector service

I recorded a video of the leak here:

I am wondering if anyone knows what the problem could be? Is Nissan right about getting these 7 things fixed? How long can I keep driving the car for until things start to worsen?

One of my plans is to drive less and raise money for the next 6 months, and then get it all fixed, but I'm worried about the car deteriorating even further and causing more damage.

What do you think I should do?

Response From DanD

I’d say that your list is set in the proper order of priority; but without knowing how bad the intake gasket is leaking, maybe have the cooling system leaks fixed first.
The first three being left unattended too will or could cause more damage.
A leaking intake will cause an engine to run lean (to much air compared to fuel ratio); a lean engine runs hot.
A leaking cooling system is more of a problem then just the coolant leaking out. Cooling systems are designed to work under pressure; for every pound of pressure, the boiling point of the coolant rises by 3 degrees. With a cooling system allowed to run in atmospheric pressure, the coolant may begin to boil as it passes through the cylinder heads. Your temperature gauge may show a normal temp but internal engine temperatures are soaring; the coolant comes off of boil after it leaves the cylinder head and passes the temperature sensor.
Broken engine mounts put strain on the drivetrain; axle shafts are forced to run out of their normal plain (angles) causing excessive wear. Also an engine that is allowed to move around under the hood could be the cause of the radiator leaking; the engine maybe pulling on the hoses?
The last 4 items are maintenance issues; yes important but if you have to put something off, it would be them.

Dan.

Response From dave284

$2700.00!!!!! Good God, I would get another estimate....sorry for being so blunt but I can't see paying for a repair job that cost as much as a reman engine.

Response From bball_1523

If I were to put off any repairs for 6 months until I tried to raise money for the repairs, do you think my car would survive without any extra major damage or breakdowns?

I am thinking about getting another estimate at a local repair shop.

The first three items would cost me $2255, as they are $900, $575, and $780, in order.

Response From dave284

If your'er low on funds now....I would certainly take care of that radiator leak first, cause if that motor ever over heats bad enough....its done for.

Response From bball_1523

I took my car in to a different shop and they told me to replace the radiator hoses, and that they will check for other problems as well. What do you guys think?

I had my service engine light come on for a while before last week Monday. Last week Monday I took the car in to a Nissan dealer and the turned off the service engine light and it hasn't come on since then. Does this say anything about any problems my car is having?

Response From bball_1523

So I got the radiator hoses replaced at a local shop by someone that I kind of know and was told that the radiator is not leaking.

Other things recommended in order of importance:

1) replace two front tires because of wearing tread
2) front and rear motor mounts need to be attended to within a month
3) brake fluid flush
4) Outer CV boots cracking
5) rear brakes near minimum, check at 119,700 miles (right now I'm somewhere in the 114,000 range)
6) windshield washer reservoir cap
7) clean leaves from cowl

Does anyone have any advice for any of these items? I'm glad to know that the radiator isn't leaking, so I'm wondering why Nissan told me so. Maybe one of them didn't look carefully?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Comments after ***s


1) replace two front tires because of wearing tread **** if legal can wait
2) front and rear motor mounts need to be attended to within a month ****may save and expensive problem to do now.
3) brake fluid flush ****cheap if bleeders cooperate.
4) Outer CV boots cracking ****entire shafts are cheap enough when they fail vs just removing for the boots.
5) rear brakes near minimum, check at 119,700 miles (right now I'm somewhere in the 114,000 range) ****how do you have less miles now??
6) windshield washer reservoir cap ****free at junkyards or use aluminum foil....Not big bucks anyway new.
7) clean leaves from cowl **** why is that so difficult - just do it!
_________________

T

Response From bball_1523

What do you mean by the tires being legal? I tried the penny method and it's worn down according to the penny.

For #5, I don't know the exact miles driven so I gave an estimate. In my first post, it shows what the miles were at one point. My car has obviously driven more up to this day.

for #3, what do you mean by "cheap if bleeders cooperate"?

For the CV boots, are you saying that I shouldn't fix them and let them wear out, and my car will be fine?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Tires legal: There are small triangle arrows indicating the treadwear minimum on the sidewall pointing to raised spots in the tires grooves. If any of those are flush with the tread the tire is no longer legal for street use.

Bleeders: Some will be stuck and may not bleed or remove to clean or replace without breaking off. If that happens it opens up a series of replacing stuff back to where things are not rusted wjere new line can be flared into good line - a nightmare sometimes!

CV boots: I won't do them. They make kits that go around and seal up that are marginal at best. Whole rebuilt driveshafts are available with new boots and checked out or new CV joints for as low as $59 bucks for some cars! Check locally for your car. Why bother if they are that cheap is why I said that. If your are expensive and the joints still good get a price on that part of the job alone,

T

Response From bball_1523

I am still not understanding what you are saying about tires. I measured my tires with a penny and I think it's 2/32" of tread left. (if tread is even the right word). Sorry I'm a rookie at maintaining my car, and I've been driving for over 7 years.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


There are hidden bumps like shown above that shouldn't be flush with the actual tread left. I'd use the Lincoln's head test on those personally but they are legal till those are flush. There's an arrow on the sidewall at the several points around the tire where the raised parts between treads are. Many tires will look fine on the inside or outside but you go by the worst wear found to rate the legality of the tire.

IMO - tires are your #1 line of defence in safety! No matter what contraptions you design into a car for stopping, traction and handling the tire is the only thing actually touching the road! Being legal is one thing but the truth is tire's traction ability is severely compremised after let's say "half worn" area. That tread is primal for wet roads and your best chance with mud, snow and ice conditions which all vary of course.

Prices vary widely for tires. If costs must be kept low consider inspected, matching used tires if needed.

Exact size and ratings suggested by manufacturer is also paramount. It's engineered into the handling of the vehicle,

T

Response From bball_1523

I've been told that my Outer CV Boots are leaking grease. Should I get them fixed?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes, no and maybe?? Why are they leaking grease? If the boots have split shafts need to be removed to install new ones. It can be close to the cost of whole rebuilt replacement 1/2 shafts just to do that.

If a clamp is loose or missing for some reason - yes fix that.

Once water and dirt get into the CV joint it's game over IMO. They might go a long time and still behave before the first symptom shows up. You decide based on how they feel or professional advice on their safety. They usually give fair warning noises when it's time to replace. Not always though - watched a neighbor pull into their driveway and one let go right then and all the balls of the joint rolled down the driveway - funny but not and that one didn't warn them!

What you do about yours right now is a judgment call for you and or with a tech's advice and close inspection,

T

Response From bball_1523

I'll have a mechanic check and advise me again.

Response From Guest

Today I checked under my car and saw the coolant leaking. I think there's another problem with a leak. The leak is under the front passenger side of the hood, underneath the car.

The reservoir tank is also almost empty! I just a 50/50 prediluted fluid for it.

Does anyone know what the issue might be? Do you think the radiator is really dysfunctional?

Response From bball_1523


Today I checked under my car and saw the coolant leaking. I think there's another problem with a leak. The leak is under the front passenger side of the hood, underneath the car.

The reservoir tank is also almost empty! I just a 50/50 prediluted fluid for it.

Does anyone know what the issue might be? Do you think the radiator is really dysfunctional?

haha, sorry that guest is me, I didn't realize that I wasn't logged in.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Is the reservoir and or hose to it leaking?

T

Response From bball_1523

I don't know if the hose is leaking, but I think just the right of the reservoir, underneath the car it is leaking. I can see a small amount of green coolant about to drip hanging on to something under my car.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

When cool - chase it with a paper towel or your finger. More often than not the source of a leak will be the highest and most forward of where evidence is found. Those tanks can crack and hose could be faulty - this is a look and find job now. Some hidden leaks you can use a dental type mirror to look up at the bottom of items,

T

Response From bball_1523

I took the car back to a shop I have recently been going to and they found that the top of the radiator, where the radiator cap is, is cracked and leaking. I literally could see coolant leaking out from their.

Anyways they are going to fix it this week and I think it may cost at most around $400.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

he good new is now you know the source! Materials used or where it leak might be able to be properly fixed. Not your average "just goo it up" but a proper fix may be available depending on just what, how and where. A real radiator shop would likely be privy to the latest for the chance of that if the radiator is ok as a whole and might be a practical choice,

T

Response From Fant

I tell you what - if you really love your cars you have to spend some time with it Evrything has to be done by your own hands (IMHO), there will be less problems with it!!!

Response From jayeffel

I would change the radiator hose that is leaking; do it yourself. I've never heard of brake or power steering flush -unless there were severe problems that indicate the need. I understand fuel injectors don't need much attention , okay to put fuel injector cleaner in gas tank. Motor mounts broken, you can check them, motor may notably shake when running.

BTW: mileage requested is odometer mileage, gives an indication of wear and tear. Gas mileage can help also. Good luck.