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We stock Motor Mount parts for most Mazda models, including 3 Sport, B2200, B2300, B2600, B3000, CX7, CX9, MPV, MX6, Miata, Millenia, Protege, Protege5, RX7, RX8, Tribute, 3, 5, 6, 626.

Genuine
2004 Mazda Tribute Engine Mount 4 Cyl 2.0L Genuine

P311-2F7917C    W0133-1701355  New

Qty:
$186.17
Genuine Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Left
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Mazda Tribute Automatic L 4 Cyl 2.0L 121 1989
Genuine
2011 Mazda 3 Sport Engine Mount Genuine

P311-49CCF8C    W0133-1918749  New

Qty:
$147.56
Genuine Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Bolts to Timing Cover
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
2011 - Mazda 3 Sport F
Genuine
2010 Mazda 3 Engine Mount 4 Cyl 2.0L Genuine

P311-49CCF8C    W0133-1918749  New

Qty:
$147.56
Genuine Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Production: 08/18/2010-, Bolts to Timing Cover
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2010 - Mazda 3 L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 2000 Fr:08-18-10
MTC
2006 Mazda 6 Engine Mount 6 Cyl 3.0L MTC

P311-229F134    W0133-1808789  New

Qty:
$71.65
MTC Engine Mount
  • Firewall Side (Torque Rod)
  • Rear
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Mazda 6 Manual V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
MTC
2005 Mazda 6 Engine Mount 6 Cyl 3.0L MTC

P311-229F134    W0133-1808789  New

Qty:
$71.65
MTC Engine Mount
  • Firewall Side (Torque Rod)
Brand: MTC
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mazda 6 Manual V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
Genuine
2005 Mazda 6 Engine Mount 6 Cyl 3.0L Genuine

P311-1979E15    W0133-1808789  New

Qty:
$235.99
Genuine Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Firewall Side (Torque Rod)
  • Rear
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Transmission Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Mazda 6 Manual V 6 Cyl 3.0L 181 2968
Westar
2010 Mazda 5 Engine Mount - Front Right Westar

P311-2ACC2CD    EM-3103  New

605312 , 9T1Z6038A , 602-2291 , 3103 , 3S4Z6038BA , 5S4Z6038BB , 5S4Z6038AA , 1243H , A5312 , 5S4Z6038CB

Qty:
$14.11
Westar Engine Mount  Front Right
  • ENGINE MOUNT
  • Insert
  • Product Attributes:
    • PRODUCT BULLET 1: Designed To Meet Or Exceed Oem Specifications On Quality, Fit, And Function.
    • PRODUCT BULLET 2: Top Quality Components Are Used, & Manufactured To Strict Iso, Qs, & Ts Standard
    • PRODUCT BULLET 3: Vehicle Specific Design, To Include Hydraulic, & Electronic Or Vaccum Controled
  • At Westar, we pride ourselves on giving you top quality mounts at competitive pricing. We use only the highest grade rubber and steel designed specifically for your application, and apply a finish that will not only enhance the appearance of the mount, but will also help to extend the life of the mount.
Brand: Westar
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2010 - Mazda 5 Front Right
Westar
2006 Mazda 3 Engine Mount - Front Right Westar

P311-2ACC2CD    EM-3103  New

605312 , 9T1Z6038A , 602-2291 , 3103 , 3S4Z6038BA , 5S4Z6038BB , 5S4Z6038AA , 1243H , A5312 , 5S4Z6038CB

Qty:
$14.11
Westar Engine Mount  Front Right
  • ENGINE MOUNT
  • Insert Only
  • Product Attributes:
    • PRODUCT BULLET 1: Designed To Meet Or Exceed Oem Specifications On Quality, Fit, And Function.
    • PRODUCT BULLET 2: Top Quality Components Are Used, & Manufactured To Strict Iso, Qs, & Ts Standard
    • PRODUCT BULLET 3: Vehicle Specific Design, To Include Hydraulic, & Electronic Or Vaccum Controled
  • At Westar, we pride ourselves on giving you top quality mounts at competitive pricing. We use only the highest grade rubber and steel designed specifically for your application, and apply a finish that will not only enhance the appearance of the mount, but will also help to extend the life of the mount.
Brand: Westar
Position: Front Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Position
2006 - Mazda 3 Naturally Aspirated Front Right
Genuine
2011 Mazda 3 Sport Engine Mount Genuine

P311-1D697E6    W0133-1982072  New

Qty:
$179.19
Genuine Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Bolts to Timing Cover
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
2011 - Mazda 3 Sport 5
Genuine
2017 Mazda 5 Engine Mount Genuine

P311-1D697E6    W0133-1982072  New

Qty:
$179.19
Genuine Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2017 - Mazda 5

Latest Mazda Repair and Motor Mount Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Mazda 3 2004 engine ticking in the morning

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From ndsinister on Mazda 3 2004 engine ticking in the morning

Hi,

I have a mazda 3 2004 1.6. every morning when I start the car and begin driving on the first and second gear, I hear this kind of ticking noise from the engine. The noise appears when I press the accelerator pedal.
The noise goes away after a few minutes while driving.
I recorded a video and uploaded it to youtube, check it out:
I tried to troubleshoot the problem and changed the oil filter and put new oil. The problem remains.
any ideas?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

? Noises tough even with a video. Try quickly just adding load in place, hood open with a helper and watch belt and motor mounts OR other ways to check those too.


Is this the correct oil for this car you are using? It matters, T

Response From ndsinister

Thanks for the quick reply!
I'll try to record another video soon. I've done some tests and the noise doesn't appear while on neutral gear and pressing the accelerator. It appears only when I shift to the first gear and slowly release the clutch with a bit gas. Could it be somehow related to the clutch/transmission?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

That suggest only with some load on engine/trans which is why I mentioned motor mounts. Engine/trans tilts normally but limited by mounts. Tilts opposite in reverse or forward and may not do it in reverse.


Still on the guessing side here till things checked. If mounts allow just a bit too much motion something could rub/touch that makes noise when moving just a bit too far. You can observe this OR know how to even jack engine a bit with wood and a floor jack and watch them. Should be ruled out.


First video showed you didn't go fast or far so not thinking CV joints or issues there just yet.


The other mentioned is to set parking brake hard and even block wheels so car can't move and see if load alone or motion is triggering the noise. No - don't burn out a clutch but just enough to make load while in place AND watch with hood open with a helper. CAUTION - stand to the side of a car doing things like that, not in front if it could take off you don't want to get run over of course, T

01 Mazda trans & eng question

Showing 3 out of 7 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From newportman on 01 Mazda trans & eng question

Hello, newbie here, I have a 2001 mazda 626 I recently purchased knowing the trans. needed rebuilding, had it rebuilt but when I drove it home it now has a bad vibration in the engine at idle. 3 mounts were also replaced, anyone know what the problem could be ? Thanks for any help.

Response From Hammer Time

Did it have the vibration before the trans rebuild?

Response From newportman

No, it did not have any vibration at all. The trans guy is wanting to raise the idle speed, I believe this will only mask the real problem.

Response From Hammer Time

That's not the answer. Something may be grounding out somewhere, possibly the exhaust or motor mounts.

Response From newportman

Thanks, I am going back to his shop tomorrow, I was wondering if there was some type of " idle " sensor that could be bad but seems to me it has to be the trans or eng mounts since it was smooth before. It smooths out as soon as you pull off & are moving but as soon as you stop it vibrates very bad in drive or park. Thanks for your help.

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

It really sounds like you have a bad motor mount here.....

If you have a floor jack, put it under the engine pan with a block of wood on it and while it's in gear vibrating, gently jack the engine by the pan to support the weight, if the vibration goes away, you have a bad mount...........

Response From newportman

Thanks for your help, I will give it a try.

1998 Mazda 626 idles rough. How can I adjust idle speed?

Showing 7 out of 10 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From plsmoothy on 1998 Mazda 626 idles rough. How can I adjust idle speed?

Hi community. I drive a '98 Mazda 626LX 2.0L 4Cyl with 140,000 miles. The car idles at approximately 650 RPM. At this RPM, I get an intense vibration in the engine and throughout the car. Here's what I've done in an attempt to eliminate the problem. 1. Changed spark plugs/spark plug cables. 2.Checked engine compression... compression good. 3.Removed fuel injectors and had them ionically cleaned. 4.Checked for error codes ... none found. 5.Replaced fuel filter.

At this point I'm considering changing the motor mounts. Before I do that however, I want to increase the idle speed by 100 RPM or so. Can anybody shed some light on how to go about in doing this? Also, any other insights are greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Response From Sidom

At that mileage it is very possible it's your motor mounts. To verify this if you put a floor jack under the engine & slightly jack up engine (with a piece of wood or something so as not to damage the pan) to take take the weight off the mounts & your vibration goes away( while the engine is running), then it's the mounts for sure.....

Response From plsmoothy

Don't want to beat a dead horse here but is there absolutely no way to reprogram the computer to increase the idle speed? An increase of 100-150 rpm's seems to make all the difference in the world.

Thanks again.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

plsmoothy; The idle spec for your car is 550-800rpm, so as Hammer stated, it is within specs. And, as he said, the idle speed is computer controlled. If the engine is running rough and is within idle specs, you have an underlying problem that is causing the roughness. Changing the motor mounts won't fix the roughness. May even make it more noticeable.
Have you had the injectors ohm checked? Have you cleaned the throttle body and IAC? Compression test? Valve clearances? So many things can contribute to this.....No easy answer.

Response From plsmoothy

I'm in the process of cleaning the throttle body and idle air control (AIC) now. I noticed there is quite a bit of a tar like substance in the intake manifold. Should I clean the intake manifold since I'm already in the vicinity?

I took the advice of Sidom and loosened up a couple of the motor mounts, put a jack under the oil pan and lifted the engine. The vibration felt pretty much the same. Does that prove that it's not necessarily the motor mounts.

In addition there is something that I forgot to include in my original post. The idle gets rougher when I turn on the Air Conditioner. The vibration gets really intense.

As always, your help is greatly appreciated.

Response From Sidom

Sounds like the intake is pretty dirty. Cleaning the throttle plate is good but most shops offer services that run cleaning solvent thru the intake & also disable the fuel system & run it thru the rail also to clean the injectors.

The method I told you about you don't loosen any of the mounts, just put a just under the pan w/wood & a couple of pumps to support the motor & run it. On the ones I've done that had bad mounts this would either eliminate the vibration or make a noticable improvement.

Now I'm assuming you've check all the mounts & none are broken. This method is only to check mounts that have hardened & are transmitting the engine vibration..

Response From Guest

Hi there,

I have a 1993 and the same problem. To adjust the idle the computer needs to be re-adjusted. Place a wire between TEN en GND inside the diagnoses connector. Adjust the idle with the flathead screw on the right top side of the t throtthle body. Rotating counterclockwise will rise the RMP. Turn the car of and remove the wire. I have tried it and the RPM are now 950 rmp but it is still a little bit rough. Also cleaned the EGR valve, clean the IAC valve, cleaned the injector etc....

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Cleaning the throttle body and idle control motor may help.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Loren, The idle is right where it should be. He just thinks if he runs it higher, the vibration will go away.

Response From Hammer Time

The idle for that car is entirely controlled by the computer and not adjustable in any way.

If your getting a vibration, the motor mounts will likely cure it.

1991 mazda b2200 automatic engine swap

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From pickupgal on 1991 mazda b2200 automatic engine swap

I have the original carb mazda motor in my 91 b2200. Is there any other motor I can swap it with?

Response From pickupgal

My motor is done and i cant find another mazda with a good motor. Thats why im trying to find out what othe motors i can use with out alot of customizing. Appreciate any suggestions!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Have you consulted a reputable salvage yard for a tested exact duplicate? It should come with everything, compression test results and miles known with a warranty. If your truck is in good overall shape otherwise it would save a lot of grief. At the age you might find a whole truck with body damage or getting too rusty but has a good engine.

Have your VIN # handy if you call one as there could be mid year differences that matter or who knows? Many used parts (salvage yards) have inventoried their stock and in touch with others inventory,

T

Response From pickupgal

Yea i,ve been checkin scrap yards pretty regular and craigslist. But no i havent had the compression test ran. The bodys n good shape, a lil rust on dr cab corner but ive just grown partial too it. But it may be time for a new one. Ill check on the test, butdont want to put to much more time or money into.....Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

What do you think it's worth with a good engine? From a rust belt area (road salt) and telling you that if you see a hole from rust now it could be hidden all over but will show its ugly face and is a vehicle killer vs what they are worth.

Sounds like you love this thing and bet you could find a better one - perhaps newer or not that doesn't need much of anything and no rust from some areas.

An engine will cost some big bucks no matter how you slice it. You said "new" and if new is in your budget you might save by doing that now but you have to decide that............

T

Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

swaps are never easy or cheap. You always have tech problems that can cost hundreds to clear up or even stop the project dead . motor mounts, exhaust ,tranny ,clutch or converter, wiring ,linkages ,etc. anyone thing or combo can and will go wrong. If you want to save the truck ,check with a eng rebuider /machine shop. If you do the R&R it could be reasonable.

Response From Discretesignals

You can swap it with anything that will fit in the engine bay if you have the money and time.

Just curious, but why are you wanting to do a motor swap?