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Genuine
2007 Cadillac STS Engine Mount 6 Cyl 3.6L Genuine

P311-0EB355A    W0133-1962070  New

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Genuine Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Cadillac STS AWD V 6 Cyl 3.6L 217 3564
Genuine
2011 Cadillac DTS Engine Mount Genuine

P311-4491CFE    W0133-1857430  New

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Genuine Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
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2011 - Cadillac DTS
Genuine
2007 Cadillac CTS Engine Mount 8 Cyl 6.0L Genuine

P311-4C7693C    W0133-1856584  New

Qty:
$394.80
Genuine Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Cadillac CTS V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
ACDelco
2011 Cadillac DTS Engine Mount ACDelco

P311-20B6071    W0133-1857430  New

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$219.20
ACDelco Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
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Vehicle
2011 - Cadillac DTS
ACDelco
2013 Cadillac CTS Engine Mount 6 Cyl 3.6L ACDelco

P311-56113DE    W0133-1962069  New

Qty:
$143.26
ACDelco Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type Block Engine CID CC
2013 - Cadillac CTS RWD V 6 Cyl 3.6L 217 3564
ACDelco
2007 Cadillac CTS Engine Mount 6 Cyl 3.6L ACDelco

P311-51AF99D    W0133-1960463  New

Qty:
$184.02
ACDelco Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Cadillac CTS V 6 Cyl 3.6L 217 3564
ACDelco
2004 Cadillac Escalade EXT Engine Mount ACDelco

P311-43AAD2C    W0133-1856588  New

Qty:
$146.23
ACDelco Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2004 - Cadillac Escalade EXT
ACDelco
2005 Cadillac Escalade Engine Mount 8 Cyl 5.3L ACDelco

P311-43AAD2C    W0133-1856588  New

Qty:
$146.23
ACDelco Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
  • Except Provision for Heavy Duty Trailer Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Cadillac Escalade V 8 Cyl 5.3L 325 5328
ACDelco
2007 Cadillac Escalade EXT Engine Mount ACDelco

P311-04DA2A2    W0133-1856501  New

Qty:
$180.40
ACDelco Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Cadillac Escalade EXT
ACDelco
2014 Cadillac Escalade Engine Mount ACDelco

P311-1153C35    W0133-1856502  New

Qty:
$183.99
ACDelco Engine Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • GM Original Equipment
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Drive Type
2014 - Cadillac Escalade RWD

Latest Cadillac Repair and Motor Mount Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

90 Cadillac Reading Codes???

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From comnavguy on 90 Cadillac Reading Codes???

How does one read the codes on this Sedan DeVille? I know it has something to do with holding the "Range" and "Reset" buttons or some such, but can't remember exactly what.

AND it is not in the owner's manual.

Does anyone have that procedure?

Thanks.

Response From Sidom

Turn the key on & then hit off & warmer on the panel at the same time.........

Response From comnavguy

You still da man. I knew it was something like that, but I could not remember the sequence.

Now, I'm off to count first and second blinks.

Thanks much.

Response From Hammer Time

You don't have to count any blinks. It displays the codes.

Response From comnavguy Top Rated Answer

I'm glad you sent the additional info. I ran the procedure and got nothing but dashes. So now I know that the outside air temp sensor or the circuit is bad.

Can you tell me where THAT sensor is?

I also just learned that there are two motor mounts broken. The car has very little power until it hits about 45 MPH, then it seems to be a little better. But until I see the codes, I don't want to do anything.

Response From Hammer Time




Center Of Radiator Support

Applicable to: DeVille & Fleetwood

Response From Hammer Time

Here's a little more info on it.






1995 mercury cougar

Showing 5 out of 12 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From dlwms on 1995 mercury cougar

HEY GUYS IM NEW HERE BUT I'VE BEEN WORKING ON OLDER CARS A VERY LONG TIME...? IS MY '95 COUGAR HAS A VIBRATING WHEN SHE'S @ IDLE SPEED.... I'VE TUNED 'ER UP, NEW MOTOR MOUNTS, & I JUST DON'T KNOW WHAT ELSE TO DO ...ANY IDEAS???? HELP!!!!!

Response From Discretesignals

Which engine? Check engine light on?

Response From dlwms Top Rated Answer

3.8 liter..yes my engine light is on..the vibrating & shaking is mainly on the driver side, of engine. Could it be one of my cadillac converters on just that side, or does that type of car have beads in converter? Thanx 4 response..

Response From Hammer Time

Could it be one of my cadillac converters on just that side, or does that type of car have beads in converter?

What the hell does that mean?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Laugh - didn't check if this has two converters or one but not the issue. I do remember the coated pellets and a drain plug on converters early on and a good idea for the time as so much leaded gas ruined them you could just change the pellets but nobody did that I knew of. Gas stations were putting cheaper leaded fuel in the tanks for the station's tanks,

T

Response From greasy one

Hehe, my Cadillac converter burst into flames in 1983, in the Mts of WV, while a traveling photographer. I grabbed some reeds and got it out. A guy cut it off and we kept the secret.

Response From Hammer Time

A guy cut it off and we kept the secret.

Well.......... the secret is out now.

Response From nickwarner

New one to me. Didn't know Cadillac made the Mercury Cougar. Maybe you had problems with a catalytic convertor. Also it costs $50 to every person who reads this thread to continue to keep the secret safe.

Response From greasy one

I was going with what was posted. I did have a Caddy. 1976 Coupe and nothing could touch it. I advanced the timing and maybe that helped ignite the cat. converter. Anyways it did like 150 with plenty left. The motor had a shorter life than usual. lol. I changed it. I still have the factory paper with the coding and just scanned it a couple weeks ago. What a car.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Recheck your new mounts as whole engine if shaking wouldn't pick just one side unless it was cracked into two peices. No beads since the 1970s that I know of for converters when you could drain and replace them for a short while back when. Fixed 'honeycomb' of material.

If one side is clogged and can just loosen it pre converter or test for back pressure would be telling. I tend to doubt that is the up front trouble at all so far,

T

Response From nickwarner

Does it get worse when you put it in gear?

Response From dlwms

Yes, it does get worse in gear...But the shaking & trembling is there all the time just worse when I put'er in gear..When I put' er in gear the drivers side of the engine causes the entire engine to shake....

Engine vibration

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Bullet Bob on Engine vibration

Have '86-up Chev crate 350 installed in '65 Cadillac with a vibration that starts at about 1800 rpm and increases proportionately with the increase of rpms. At on point in working on motor mounts, the engine was inadvertently started with harmonic balancer resting on front crossmember. MIGHT the balancer have been damaged in a way that could cause the vibration??? This is with the car (T-400 trans) out of gear (park) on driveway. Have extensively checked for vacuum leaks, replaced sparkplugs, and checked for shorted plug wires with no change in condition.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You could have even bent the crankshaft.

Cadillac DeVille water pump bypass tube

Showing 2 out of 28 Posts | Show 26 Hidden Posts
Question From steveonmars on Cadillac DeVille water pump bypass tube

I have a 1984 Cadillac DeVille with a 4.1L 250 engine and need to replace the water pump. the parts stores want to know if I have a bypass tube on mine or not. What is it and where would it be if I had one?

Thanks,

Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hi,

Just hunted parts as a clue. Two different sources. Seems the 4.1 didn't use a hose for bypass system. Could be that it's metal, built into water pump, or isn't a specific part # but rather generic cooling system hose.

Roughly 1% of the engines for these were a 5.7 diesel - I think based on an Olds block which was just a couple inch piece of hose from water pump to thermostat if I recall correctly. You would just use heater hose (generic) and cut a piece of so and they are a pill as the two spouts are so close together you need to either heat the piece up so it's soft or remove the thermostat housing if I recall.

Not an issue as you said it wasn't that engine. It may be a metal tube that's popular to go bad. When back at parts store see what they are referring to and take a pic of your water pump with you,

T

Response From steveonmars

I thought it might be something similar to what I've seen before where there was a 3 or 4 inch tube near the thermostat housing that where the heater hoses connected. This one doesn't have that but since this is a special order part I wanted to try to find out for sure. I'll probably just pull the pump and take it with me when I order the new one.

Thanks,

Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Autozone list two pumps?

Without built in bypass tube looks like this.........

/

With bypass tube looks like this.......

/

I'm not seeing the total difference? Can't always go by the pics but that site is pretty good. Apparently neither list a hose??

Here's the site..........

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?itemIdentifier=183731_139639_0_&skuDescription=Duralast+New+/+Water+Pump&brandName=Duralast+New&displayName=Water+Pump&categoryNValue=14399999&sortType=&store=5151&isSearchByPartNumber=false&fromWhere=&fromString=search&counter=0&itemId=95-0&navValue=14300095&filterByKeyWord=Water+Pump&productId=183731&searchText=Water+Pump&categoryDisplayName=Collision%2C+Body+Parts+%26+Hardware&parentId=43-0

Check others too, NAPA on line, O'Reileys, Advance Auto - anyplace that shows good pics could save you a hassle - having the old on the counter helps the most but call ahead to see if they have it. Real parts stores if you call by 10am if it's warehoused locally you'll have it by 2pm or at least places I deal with. Good luck,

T

Response From steveonmars

I've heard a couple different answers on other forums. One said it's a small tube at the bottom of the pump that has a hose going to the coolant overflow reservoir. The other said it's a small tube at the top of the pump that goes into the intake manifold. Either way it's supposed to bypass the thermostat when it's closed. My pump has neither one so I ordered the pump without the bypass tube.

Now I'm having trouble getting the old one off. There's a pulley on the front of the block under the power steering pump on the driver's side with a bolt through the center that needs a 3/8" hex wrench to take the pulley off. I can't get the bolt loose. The pulley turns free and there's no way to stop it from spinning to loosen the bolt. There's a bolt holding the water pump on that backs out right into the back side of this pulley and I can't get that bolt out so the water pump is still attached by that one bolt. The bolt that goes into the water pump is loose but it backs out into that pulley so it won't come out all the way to get the pump off.

Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Of course I'm not looking at the exact situation but have been thru zillions over the ions. A multi bolted pulley should be loosened with belt still on or use a stud and move along. If just one in center it may be pressed on so you would look to remove the whole thing if possible. Others have holes for access thru the pulley to something behind it.

Watch out with ratcheting box wrenches if used! If not the switch and reverse type (like GearWrench makes) you can back off a bolt and be unable to get wrench out - a stalemate of sorts!

Air tools and PB (power blaster penetrating oil) can be your best friend. Takes basic understanding how NOT to break off bolts! An art in itself sometimes as extracting flush broken ones can be a nightmare. Ones that are real sticky but have moved some ok go back and tighten carefully back and forth with more PB on threads. Sucks when they break when almost out!

Look hard again at the pulley in the way. Whole unit must cooperate somehow. It may have bracketing back/over to under a motor mount or something to cause bad language!

Use all caution not to bend up a pulley trying to hold it for a bolt. If bent up it will need to be replaced.

Can take a bunch of tools for what seems simple.

Make damn sure you get the correct water pump matched on the counter as you sure don't want to be back there again. Hang in there,

T

Response From steveonmars

Tom,
Thanks for the advice. I already have have the car apart and then found out I had one more bolt behind this pulley. The center bolt wouldn't break at all and all the belts and everything are already off. It started to get dark so I loaded it up with PB and called it a night. I'll try again tomorrow. There's no holes or anything in this pulley to hold it from spinning so I might have to get a little imaginative. Maybe I'll get lucky in the morning.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Get some rest and think about the approach in the morning. I'll be away most of am but whoever here or wherever watching may have ideas.

What does this pulley that's a pain go to? It would help me find out how it might come out,

T

Response From steveonmars

It doesn't really go to anything. It's just for the belts to go around. It sits under what I believe is the power steering pump. There's a skinny belt that connects the two of these and then a wider belt that goes to the AC compressor. I took some pictures but I haven't figured out how to post them here yet. If I can I'll post some pics.

Steve

Response From steveonmars

Tom,

Hopefully I just uploaded some pictures as attachments. I couldn't figure out how else to do it.

Response From steveonmars

&size=128It looks like that worked. Hope that helps a little.

Steve

Response From steveonmars

I guess that didn't work after all.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Pic posting from your own stuff can be a pill. It won't take stuff from my own puter here but will from near anywhere else. A setting or some geeky thing that prohibits my own?? Try them as an attachment and then I can post them,

T

Response From steveonmars

I tried attachments in post #10 and just tried again here. Hopefully these will work.
(edit - post pics direct - don't ask how or why this works?? Nice pics for archives - Tom)

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Heating_or_AC_Issues_F8/Re%3A_Cadillac_DeVille_water_pump_bypass_tube_P68115/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=577;t=search_engine

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/cgi-bin/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=578;t=search_engine
http://autoforums.carjunky.com/cgi-bin/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=579;t=search_engine

Response From steveonmars

It rained all say today so I didn't do anything. The bolt that won't come loose is behind the fan blade but you can see the pulley I'm talking about.

Steve

Response From Hammer Time

Not sure what you are trying to do here but what you have marked in those pictures is the power steering pulley which is pressed on to the pump. There is no bolt in the end. That is just a hex hole in the end of the shaft. The one above it is the air pump. You need a special puller to pull that pulley off the pump.

Response From steveonmars

The pulley I have marked pulley, is that what you're saying is pressed on the power steering pump? It doesn't look like there's anything at all behind it. What's the thing I have marked "power steering?" ?

Steve

Response From Sidom

That's a vacuum pump that is labeled p/s pump.

On this model the p/s pump pulley needs to be removed to r&r the water pump. The pulley is pressed onto the pump and special puller is required to remove it... Some parts houses will rent the puller.......

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Posted the pics direct - came out huge but nice archives. PS pump pulley is pressed on as said. Rent-able? Yes at many parts outlets or perhaps not that expensive - I forgot what mine cost

Use of temps can help with pressed stuff - races, pulleys etc., put part you need smaller in your freezer if allowed (CAUTION! CAN CAUSE DOMESTIC PROBLEMS!) and they'll go back on/in better,

T

Response From steveonmars

Thanks for the tips so far. Now I remember why I quit working on my own cars. I had a puller and tried pulling off the pulley from the power steering pump and it just twisted the arms on the puller. I had another puller from when I was a machinist so I tried that one. I had to grind just a little bit off the legs and it fit perfect over the end of the pulley. This is a solid piece with nothing to twist and nice and short so the pressure was nice and uniform. The legs fit perfect in the groove on the end of the pulley and all it did was start to bend up and cut through the end of the pulley. I tried tapping the pulley while the pressure was pulling. It was soaked with power blaster 2 days ago and again this morning so that had plenty of time to sit.

This pulley still doesn't want to come off. Is it safe to use heat on this? Will I damage the pump if I use heat? I really need some help here guys.

I've been working on my own cars for 30 years and I'm restoring a '52 MG so I'm not a total amatuer. I also built a couple muscle cars back in the 70's & 80's. I did stop doing my own work when I could finally afford newer cars about 10 years ago but now I'm disabled and divorced and had to buy an older car agian. I do have the background and all the basics even if I need to be reminded of some of this stuff once in a while. I've always taught myself so don't always know the proper names or terms but the basics are there. I do appreciate any help you can give me.

Thanks a lot,

Steve

Response From Hammer Time

I hope you didn't try to use a jaw type puller to get that off. all that will do is bend and destroy the pulley. There is a special puller that grabs the lip on the hub area.




Response From steveonmars

Thanks, I went to the parts store to rent one and they didn't have one to rent but tried to sell me a jaw type that said power steering puller for $30 so I tried my jaw type because it was the similar. It didn't work obviously. I can't afford to spend $30 on something I'll never use again but I may not have a choice.

Thanks for the pics, I know what to look for now.

Steve

Response From Hammer Time

If you live near an AutoZone or Advanced Auto parts, most of them have loaner or rental programs.

Response From nickwarner

most likely if you used a 3 jaw on it the pulley is trashed. I know some excellent parts guys that know what they are talking about, and I know some whose hands I have to hold just to get an order in. Problem is when you aren't familiar with whats needing to happen and don't deal with a certain store enough to know who is good and who isn't. I hate to sound mean, but when I'm busy and call my local NAPA or O'Reillys I hang up if a certain employee that I know isn't competent answers. I call back later. They may be barely able to find an oil filter or something simple, but if they were that good at working on cars they honestly wouldn't be parts guys. They'd be mechanics. Some of them used to be mechanics and got into the parts store due to health problems. Those are the guys you want. Especially the old timers. They know all the tricks. But when a guy tells you that a 3 jaw is just as good as a power steering puller he should be taken out in the moonlight and beaten with hammers. If a 3 jaw was good enough, why would they make a special puller for power steering pulleys? Also remember that it takes a special tool to put it on without wrecking it as well. Like Hammer said, many parts store loan tools and you need to talk with them about those tools before you blow too much coin on this.

Response From steveonmars

Thanks to everyone who helped. I bought a puller and it was a piece of cake to pull the pulley and reinstall later. I'll probably never use this tool again but it was worth the $35 just to get the job done right.

Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks for the follow up. $35 bucks is nothing in this biz. Have a boat load of "one-time" tools and can't do certain things without them. Way it goes,

T

Response From Hammer Time

Before you even take that pulley off, rotate it and measure whether there is any runout to the pulley at all. If the pulley was bent at all from that jaw puller, then plan on getting another one before it goes back together. That one is ruined.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Steve,

Hammer said it - you can't fake what kind of puller and get the right one. It's been that style for those for ions, looks just like the one I have predating the invention of the wheel!

Forget $30 if that's all it is. (seems too low to me) That will look cheap vs a new pump and pulley if bent/damaged! If you can't rent it, sell the tool, buy a decent one and it will sell but make sure you are done and all is working.

You may need that tool if pulley is trashed now just to replace it so think about owning it if you want to fix your own stuff,

T