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; H-3.406 in.; OD-3.15 in.; M20 x 1.5-6H Thread; psi Relief Valve 11-17
Premium Oil Filter w/Wrench Off Nut
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K&N premium oil filters are meticulously engineered to offer outstanding filtration and engine protection. Designed to operate with all synthetic, conventional, and blended motor oils, K&N's pleated synthetic-blend filtration media helps to shield your engine from contaminants and ensure a consistent flow of oil. The heavy-duty canister is engineered to be exceptionally durable, and a one-inch welded hex nut can be used for quick and easy filter removal. Each filter is specifically designed to withstand the service intervals recommended by vehicle manufacturers, and is protected by the K&N 1-Year Limited Warranty.
K&N premium oil filters are meticulously engineered to offer outstanding filtration and engine protection. Designed to operate with all synthetic, conventional, and blended motor oils, K&N's pleated synthetic-blend filtration media helps to shield your engine from contaminants and ensure a consistent flow of oil. The heavy-duty canister is engineered to be exceptionally durable, and a one-inch welded hex nut can be used for quick and easy filter removal. Each filter is specifically designed to withstand the service intervals recommended by vehicle manufacturers, and is protected by the K&N 1-Year Limited Warranty.
K&N premium oil filters are meticulously engineered to offer outstanding filtration and engine protection. Designed to operate with all synthetic, conventional, and blended motor oils, K&N's pleated synthetic-blend filtration media helps to shield your engine from contaminants and ensure a consistent flow of oil. The heavy-duty canister is engineered to be exceptionally durable, and a one-inch welded hex nut can be used for quick and easy filter removal. Each filter is specifically designed to withstand the service intervals recommended by vehicle manufacturers, and is protected by the K&N 1-Year Limited Warranty.
I am trying to get to the center speaker in the dash of a 2003 mitsubishi eclipse. I cannot seam to figure out how to get the panel off to get to the speaker. How do I get tin there? Any suggestions?
Thanks
Response From Guest
Nice car,if you have the factory information center/radio indicator then consider wiring any amplifiers to the factory cd player to retain it's functionality with the steering wheel cd controls(if equipped) but if you have your heart set on a better head unit then under the heater controls there are two phillips head screws and then it all unsnaps from there,I think there's also 4 phillips heads holding the cd player but maybe it's bolts(it's been awhile).
Jim, P.S. if you like the eclipse visit here for the eclipse specialist across town from me(great work)http://www.portersperformance.com/
Response From Guest
Thanks, but I'm actually trying to get to the center console speaker located on the top of the dash board. The radio is fine, but the speaker is blown. I cannot find any screws to get to. I'm trying to avoid taking the entire dash out to get to it, but I believe I will have to.
Once again, thanks
Response From Guest☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
after you have the head unit removed reach inside and upward to find the retainers,should be bolted in.
Mitsubishi eclipse
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4 Posts
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Question From huck1021 on Mitsubishi eclipse
My mitsubishi eclipse Gs 1995 2.0 liter dohc. the milage is 151,000. Is getting fuel fowled spark plugs and will not start. Does any one know what this could possibly be?
Response From Hammer Time
Do a complete compression test and post the readings here. Is the check engine light coming on at all? If so, get the codes read and post them also.
Response From huck1021☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
The check engine light is on. We just repleaced the crank sensor could that have anything to do with it. And we can not connect it to a computer beacuse we are stuck at home
Response From Hammer Time
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine
requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on
specific components to work and some components are part of more than one
function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything
about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the
failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't
present at the moment. If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves
to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.
Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to
look for.
These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to
isolate a cause.
1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found,
check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.
2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found,
check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.
3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the
pressure holds when key is shut off.
4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete
compression test.
Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out, you will know which system is having the problem.
mitsubishi eclipse '93
Showing 2 out of
2 Posts
Question From Guest on mitsubishi eclipse '93
I have a '93 Mitsubishi Eclipse and it starts and then immediately shuts off. We replaced the air filter, spark plugs, fuel filter, battery and checked the alternator. The only way it will stay running is if I have my foot on the gas...almost like a clutch..but its an automatic transmission. Any ideas???
Response From Tom Greenleaf☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
Is air cleaner assembly all intact and all wiring to it hooked up?
T
93 mitsubishi eclipse | after tightening down bolts on tranny case gear assembly seizes
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Question From juntjoo on 93 mitsubishi eclipse | after tightening down bolts on tranny case gear assembly seizes
I received a used transmission in the mail, an f5m33, for a turbo 93 Mitsubishi eclipse, to replace mine who's gears wore out, got a Quaife LSD while I was in there, switched the stock differential out with it, then proceeded to go through the "shimmy" process with solder, and I went ahead and did all shafts too, not just the differential, just to be... 'thorough', days later I've a pile of shims and scrap paper with numbers and equations of a mad five year old scientist, as the math is pretty simple, but my approach isn't. this is my first time inside a transmission and I can't imagine what happened as I only switched out the differential. anyway, it seizes at the differential and at the input shaft only when I tighten down on the bolts, shims or no shims(on the differential only). I tried with both the stock differential and the new lsd. same result. and i tested my old transmission which turns easilly at the input shaft by hand or at the differential case unbolted or bolted down 29ft/lbs. anyone with much experience rebuilding transmissions have an idea what I probably screwed up?
Response From Discretesignals
When you used the solder method to determine end play and preload, did you use a micrometer to measure the thickness of the crushed solder? You didn't install a shim the same thickness as the crushed solder did you? If you did, it will cause your parts to bind. You need to measure the crushed solder than subtract the amount of end play that component is supposed to have. That will give you the correct shim to install.
Response From juntjoo
yes, did that part correctly I'm sure as I did it several times and the existing shims more or less matched up with what my calculations called for. within a few hrs I'll try to have some more data. I will continue to play with it and hopefully find what I may have misplaced or something, if this tranny arrived like this, but I think not. only issue I noticed when receiving it was on the top of the case over what would be the output shaft is a cracked area that was filled in with I guess welding solder, I knocked it off because I hammered the area out. it previously was dented inwards slightly towards the top of the bearing/shaft. so I just knocked it out a bit and I'll have to cover the little cracks somehow. anyway, but I don't that is causing any issues, at this point at least
Response From juntjoo
first of all, how do you properly remove these bearing races without scratching things up? what exactly an I supposed to do with that hole up there right against the race? what tool?
and what about these gears? this is my old tranny, and I've already removed these gears from the one I'm working on but I did so with two flat head screw drivers which didn't feel very safe for the parts but as you can see, imagine the bolts out of the way, the shift rail and oil guide get in the way of that guillotine-looking gear removal tool I'm sure most of you get what I'm talking about, and the jaw pullers also do not fit on a setup like this. so unless there really is no tool for this situation other than two flat head screw drivers, would be nice to work correctly on these parts. I want to open up the old one to see how its assembled to help me figure out what is going on with the new (used)one I'm working on.
also, can anyone help with getting my images to display? thanks
Response From Discretesignals
Ok...this is all goofy.
You went in to change out the differential. Then for some reason you messed with the end plays of all the other shafts and ended up with a bound up transmission. Now your stating you don't know how to remove the tapered bearing races which you have to remove to put your solder behind to figure out your end play measurements. Why mess with all those other shims and spacers when all you had to do was split the case, figure out the differential bearing preload, select the correct spacer for the diff, and be done with it? Now your going to dismantle another transmission and get parts all switched up. What are you using for service information?
Mits had a special tool to remove the bearing races that used those two slots on each side of the race cavity to pry the race straight up. Those tools are probably not even made anymore, so you have to make your own. If you browse other Mits forums, theres info on some other threads where the OPs fashioned their own tools and methods for race removal.
Response From juntjoo
I messed with all endplays because I had asked in another forum about the importance of checking the endplay of just the dif and they so stressed the importance that I decided to get familiar with the process and do them all over, in the hopes I'd end up with a better end result.
I don't know how to properly get them out, so when I previously removed them, several times, I did so scratching shims and the tranny case itself.
... hence the goofiness of this thread. I'm not coming in here on a white horse with much experience and answers. in fact I'm coming in here asking questions inexperienced ignorant and some may say goofy I guess. so I'll look into that special tool I'll need to fabricate. what about them gears? don't want to chip any teeth with the wrong tool
Response From Discretesignals
Really the only time you should mess with end play on something like that is when you replace a component such as bearings/races, case halves, or shafts. Do you have the old spacers and know where they go? It is a good idea to measure end play before you take it apart also to see if it is out due to worn out crap.
Jaw puller is usually what you use to remove the 5th gears. The "guillotine" or bearing remover is really used to remove bearings or small gears from shafts where space permits. Sometimes you have to modify a puller to make it fit underneath the gear.
I've never seen the solder method before, but it seems like a good idea. If it were my transmission I would measure the end play using a dial indicator on the end of the shafts while prying the 5th gears up with the transmission on its side.
Response From juntjoo
yeah, that's what I figured, somehow I the enthusiasm of 'doing it right the first time' cause me to overreact. whatever. if I can figure it out eventually I'll know a good bit more than I did about shaft endplays and such. speaking of which, j just watched a few videos on dial indicators. cool looking tool. looks like a must have for anyone digging into their transmissions. tho I didn't get what you were suggesting as to how to check the endplays. I'm assuming you mean with the case (lightly bolted) on, transmission on its side and prying the fifth gear up and do what to check the endplay? sorry. clarification? thanks
Response From Hammer Time
Well, it was on the Internet. It must be true..............
Response From juntjoo☆☆☆☆☆Top Rated Answer
link deleted, ....... not allowed
SHIPPING
is this the kind of tool that would remove these the races easy? have seen a lot of tools that look like this for pulling races and such and I'm not sure how these work but they look adjustable for diameter and would possibly fit under my races. again, I've done this already but each time I end up scratching things and I just want to start off with the right tools.
edit: oops, sorry.
Response From GC
Response From juntjoo
thanks
Response From GC
put a in front of the url and a after. disregard the spaces
Response From Tom Greenleaf
First mistake "I received a used transmission in the mail"
Fatal mistake "while I was in there, switched the stock differential...."
So what's the surprise?
T
Response From juntjoo
"I tried with both the stock differential and the new lsd. same result."
it was shortly used rebuilt tranny. look(ed) really clean and in good condition when I got it. I'm going to bet it came in good condition until I give up trying to figure this out and bring it to aamco. hoping to get some ideas...
Response From Tom Greenleaf
See if your pic can show directly..........
You've had to use shims and solder and who knows the real condition of used anything. Possibly just tightening it up messed up everything to do with this. Pretty much things need to fit just right before snug them up - splines, pins frequently used + any alignment key for such things.
Now nothing works properly. Changing from OE set up even at the age still unseen differences can blow the attempt fatally. Guess is since you can't turn it that is squished and pushed on the wrong areas, forces on bearings etc. on parts that didn't have anything wrong before this so it might a total loss now. I can't be sure and you can't be sure used parts were good to begin with.
The whole attempt was loaded with risks from the get go. Not sure what you should do now without a Mitsu tech taking a look to see if it's worth continuing at all,
T
Response From Discretesignals
I've personally never heard of soldering shims inside a transmission. Sounds like you have tolerance stack up going on. What did you use to measure the end play after goofing up all the shimming?
Response From juntjoo
the solder is for measuring. put it between bearing races and case, tighten down and then you can measure the solder pieces for each shaft/differential. that part worked, it seems.
Response From nickwarner
You say it siezes at the diff and the input shaft? Did you replace any bearings on the countershaft or mainshaft? If the bearings aren't right by a hair (I've gotten duds out of a brand new box before) or not properly installed (failure to fully seat bearing on shaft end or failure to fully drive in the race) everthing will bind up when tightened. Also, many manual gearboxes need to be properly indexed between mainshaft and countershaft. Strange to think that a single-countershaft trans is picky about where it needs to mate up, but it can. Did you mark with a paint pen or something the exact gear orientation between the gears on both shafts before you took it apart?
Response From juntjoo
the only thing I took apart was the differential, and as you can see the gears and synchro assemblies at the top there, the poppet plugs for the shift rails and the reverse idler gear shaft to remove the case. none of that needs to be connected to have the case seat correctly right? I only replaced the bearings on the differential, as I bought the new one, and as I mentioned my last test was putting the old differential back in and got the same result. I didn't need to touch either the input, output, nor intermediate shafts. what about the bearing races? they're a b&%! to get in and out. and get stuck mid way and drop on their own, but it seems they seat up correctly once the case is resting on top. could they be a factor? did not mark with pen.
Response From nickwarner
I'm not sure off the top of my head exactly what you have to have off to get the case off. Never done this trans before. I wanted to see how much you changed out in this trans with new parts. Since its was only the diff we can concentrate there. The old and new ones don't fit correctly now, but you did say you changed the races. But the race can spin in its bore? Thats not good. Can you get a feeler gauge under it? That would tell you if it is seated all the way.
Is this the original ring and pinion or did you put in an aftermarket one? If you remove the shims will it still bind up when tightening the case? DS asked about your measured backlash, and I'm curious to hear what it was too. Also, what was your gear pattern like? Did you check it with marking compound?
This seems too me like an assembly error, maybe too little backlash or excess preload. Also possible the ring and pinion are pressing into each other too hard which will also give you a bind. Perhaps a small burr of metal behind a bearing race. Really need to look back over your work with a fine-tooth comb to figure out what went wrong. Sometimes I even get a magnifying glass and a good light to see things in greater detail so an error will stand out to me.
Response From juntjoo
here's the manual if anyone cares to take a gander. Link deleted ......... not visible without membership anyway
the races don't spin. the input and output tend to drop out where I gotta dig at the differential and intermediate ones. thanks for the replies. as for the rest, lots of info so tbc...
I'm only familiar with the solder method for checking clearance s which is outlined in the FSM, so checking indexes and the other things you mentioned I'll have to look into
