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  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Pontiac Replacement Mirror Parts

We stock Mirror parts for most Pontiac models, including Bonneville, Firebird, G6, Grand Am, Grand Prix, Montana, Sunfire, Vibe.

Dorman
2002 Pontiac Grand Am Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-1229430    955-000  New

1331-5026L , PT12EL , 62626G , 22613585 , 1820232

Qty:
$28.84
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Power Black w/Aerodynamic Hole
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
2002 - Pontiac Grand Am GT Left
Dorman
2000 Pontiac Grand Am Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-24B6948    955-001  New

22613584 , 62625G , 1820231 , PT12ER , 1331-5026R

Qty:
$28.84
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Power Black w/Aerodynamic Hole
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 3
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
2000 - Pontiac Grand Am GT1 Right
Dorman
2000 Pontiac Grand Prix Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-47518D1    955-053  New

1830132 , 10449365 , 62628G , PT13EL , 10424658 , 10312053 , 1331-5027L

Qty:
$34.01
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Power wo/Heat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 3
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 4
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Pontiac Grand Prix Left
Dorman
1997 Pontiac Grand Prix Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-22DCC3F    955-054  New

10312052 , 10449364 , PT13ER , 10424657 , 1830131 , 62627G , 1331-5027R

Qty:
$34.01
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Power wo/Heat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 4
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1997 - Pontiac Grand Prix Right
Dorman
1998 Pontiac Trans Sport Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-4D2D97B    955-055  New

62044G , 27398 , 1331-5028L , 1380132 , GM51EL , 10308804 , 1380142

Qty:
$49.87
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Power wo/Heat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 3
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1998 - Pontiac Trans Sport Left
Dorman
1998 Pontiac Trans Sport Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-452BC0B    955-056  New

27399 , 1380141 , 1331-5028R , 10308803 , 1380131 , 62043G , GM51ER

Qty:
$53.21
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Power wo/Heat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1998 - Pontiac Trans Sport Right
Dorman
2000 Pontiac Montana Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-18ACAC5    955-057  New

62044G , 1380142 , 10308802 , 1331-5028L

Qty:
$53.21
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Power w/Heat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 5
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2000 - Pontiac Montana Left
Dorman
2002 Pontiac Montana Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-233FCAC    955-058  New

1331-5028R , 1380141 , 10308801 , 62043G , 62045G

Qty:
$53.21
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Power w/Heat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 5
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2002 - Pontiac Montana Right
Dorman
1995 Pontiac Grand Prix Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-104099E    955-104  New

62514G , 1360022 , 10188135 , GM16L

Qty:
$24.32
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Manual Black w/Remote Control
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - Pontiac Grand Prix Left
Dorman
1994 Pontiac Sunbird Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-071B56E    955-109  New

27090 , 22570241 , CV26094101L00 , 1333-4183L , GM22L , 62532G

Qty:
$19.68
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Manual Low Gloss Black Cable Control
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
1994 - Pontiac Sunbird Convertible Left
Dorman
1993 Pontiac Sunbird Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-46D9AA8    955-110  New

62531G , GM22R , 22570242 , 1334-4181R , 1330011 , 27190

Qty:
$19.88
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Manual Low Gloss Black
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
1993 - Pontiac Sunbird Convertible Right
Dorman
1986 Pontiac 6000 Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-1D2953B    955-121  New

GM10L , BK31094100L00 , 62518G , 27292 , 10284771

Qty:
$31.21
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Manual Black Sport Mirror w/Remote Control
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1986 - Pontiac 6000 Left
Dorman
1995 Pontiac Grand Prix Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-22677ED    955-122  New

62534G , 10188119 , GM17L , 1830032

Qty:
$55.78
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Power 117 mm Base
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 4
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 4
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1995 - Pontiac Grand Prix Left
Dorman
1989 Pontiac Grand Prix Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-49EAF5A    955-123  New

1830031 , 10280286 , 27193 , GM17R , 62533G , 1331-4273R

Qty:
$55.78
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Power 117 mm Base
  • Product Attributes:
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Connector Terminal Quantity: 4
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 4
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1989 - Pontiac Grand Prix Right
Dorman
1989 Pontiac Safari Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-2269E1D    955-126  New

27359 , 1333-4239R , CV31094104R00 , GM21R , 10113858 , 62501G

Qty:
$56.27
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Manual w/Remote Control
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1989 - Pontiac Safari Right
Dorman
1987 Pontiac Sunbird Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-0232B5B    955-127  New

27300 , 62512G , 20294111 , GM23L , CV26094105L00

Qty:
$19.83
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Manual Cable Control
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1987 - Pontiac Sunbird Left
Dorman
2000 Pontiac Sunfire Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-1EE060B    955-311  New

27302 , 1330122 , 22728846 , GM33L , 22625945 , 62554G , 22652877 , 1334-4182L , 22679822 , 10362466

Qty:
$20.69
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Manual w/Remote Control
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
2000 - Pontiac Sunfire Coupe Left
Dorman
2003 Pontiac Sunfire Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-56D0755    955-312  New

27303 , 22652876 , 22679823 , 22728847 , 62553G , 1334-4182R , GM33R , 1330121

Qty:
$20.69
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Manual w/Remote Control
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
2003 - Pontiac Sunfire Coupe Right
Dorman
2000 Pontiac Sunfire Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-29021A5    955-313  New

1331122 , 10362467 , 62578G , GM34L , 22658135 , 22728848

Qty:
$22.61
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • ; Manual w/Remote Control
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Mounting Hole Quantity: 3
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
2000 - Pontiac Sunfire Sedan Left
Dorman
2003 Pontiac Sunfire Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-25D046E    955-314  New

22658134 , 1331121 , 22679825 , 22728849 , 62577G , 27305 , 1334-4277R , GM34R

Qty:
$20.89
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • ; Manual w/Remote Control
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Attachment Type: Screws
    • Glass Color: Clear
    • Glass Shape: Rectangular
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Housing Color: Black
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Package Contents: 1 Mirror Assembly
Brand: Dorman
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
2003 - Pontiac Sunfire Sedan Right

Latest Pontiac Repair and Mirror Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

tighten rearview mirror?

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From reds9 on tighten rearview mirror?

2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder convertible, mirror attaches to windshield.

Have a bluetooth rearview mirror which attaches to the existing mirror but too heavy and weighs it down and causes it to tilt. Any way to tighten??? Thanks for any help.

Also, same problem on 2007 Pontiac Solstice convertible.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

There really isn't much your going to do there. They are designed as a ball in a socket and engineered with a predetermined amount of tension that is not designed to be adjustable at all.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

LOL - the days of adjustable tention on the ball sockets of rear view mirrors ended about 40 years ago. Been there - done that got the T shirt!


T

2004 pontiac grand prix 3.8 v6 OVERHEATING

Showing 6 out of 7 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From tylerluck on 2004 pontiac grand prix 3.8 v6 OVERHEATING

I have noticed antifreeze has been leaking from my 2004 pontiac grand prix for the last week or two. as i was on my way to work today, I went to pass a truck and trailer and heard a pop. when i looked in my rear view mirror I saw white smoke. the car didn't lose any power, in fact it almost seemed to have more power if that makes any sense. I stopped at a gas station and noticed that the antifreeze was leaking pretty good from under the passenger side of the engine. I looked under the hood and antifreeze was only on the passenger side, but it had sprayed everywhere. I headed home and the car would overheat in 5 minutes. the heater only blew cold air, and it took me 2 1/2 hours to make it home (30 miles). my father in law hasn't looked at it but he said it's probably a freeze plug. Any suggestions?

Response From Discretesignals

2 1/2 hours on an overheating engine with coolant pouring out of it. I'm highly surprised it got you home. Why didn't you have it towed? There is a possibility that you may have majorly damaged your engine.

You need to pressure test the coolant system to see where your leak is at. Don't crank or start the engine anymore till you repair the leak. Another possibility is the upper intake cracked around coolant passages for the throttle body and is allowing coolant to go down into the cylinders. There are a couple of elbows and the water pump on the passenger side you may want to check out also.

Response From tylerluck

I didnt drive it for 2 1/2 hours, Id go 5 miles, itd overheat and id pull over and turn it off for 30 minutes or so. could that still hurt the engine?

Response From Hammer Time

A very common problem on that engine is a small plastic elbow that is connected to the belt tensioner which carries coolant on that one. If that is what failed, you will need both plastic elbows and possibly a tensioner too because it breaks off in the block when removed.

Response From CRISTINA

http://www7.carjunky.com/images/big_grin.gifHELLO, I am also working on a 2004 Pontiac Grand Prix with a 3.8 V6, and I did fine the elbow behind the Tensioner was leaking, upon removal the lower elbow of the alternator bracket also made out of plastic will break. I heard the dealer has metal ones in place of the plastic ones which came original from the factory! I would like to know is there any way to remove the broken pieces of plastic without damaging the housing because I prefer to replace the elbows instead of the complete racket assembly. Can anyone help!

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Please don't piggy back other peoples questions. If you need help with something, please start a new question of your own.

Response From Discretesignals

Yes it can. Every time that thing overheats your scuffing the piston skirts, warping the heads to the point the gaskets can blow out, thinning the oil so it doesn't lubricate the bearings correctly. Not to mention overheating the transmission fluid because the cooler is inside the radiator.

You overheat a OHC motor and it can actually break a camshaft.

04 Deville cabin light problem

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From r_2016 on 04 Deville cabin light problem




Hi, I am having a problem with my cabin lights in my car. It started in Jan 2011, a month after I bought the car; it started by the lights would blow if you put on the right rear heated seat, the bottom element of the seat would also blow (very strange). The dealer said that it was a faulty temprature sensor in the seat and the seat would have to be replaced. I had them disconnect the seat and I have been driving it for a few weeks now with no problem with the lights. I went to check it this morning and I noticed that the lights would not come on. I am thinking maybe it could be a bad door switch, relay, or something else causing this issue. I know that it is not a dead short because they will work for awhile. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks



Randy

Response From re-tired

Im no caddy expert but i seem to remember that the interior lights do not come on during daylight.you can override with manual thumbwheel , i think . also check the lighter sockets for corrosion and objects in them (pennies). also try a google for caddy tsb 's.

Response From r_2016 Top Rated Answer



Thanks. Yes, you are correct; the lights only come on at night. However, I can't even put the lights on manually. I will check that, thank you. A funny thing happened last night though; I was online looking for a solution and I found someone that had I think it was a Pontiac that was having a similar problem; it turned out to be the lighted vanity mirror was shorting out. Now, the last two times this happened my girlfriend had the car and it turned out she was using the sun visor (I never use it). The next day that I have off I am going to check. Have you ever heard of the vanity mirror shorting out the fuse? Thanks

Response From zmame

yes it is common if you use it alot.. the problem is the 2 wires run through the hinge and the constant moving and opening and closing wears out the wires.. then can make contact to body ground. I don't know if that would be related to your issue or not since I don't have access to diagrams for your caddy.

Response From r_2016

Ok, I am 99% sure that the vanity mirror lights are on the same circuit as the cabin lights. I would say that this is the problem then. We replaced the fuse about a month ago and they have been working fine until hours after putting the visor down I noticed that the lights were out again. I am going to take the visor down and check it out. Do you know if the vanity mirrors are plugged into the harness above the headliner; do the wires usually just pull down through the hole where the visor attaches to, if that’s the case I will just unplug the lights in the visor. Thanks

Response From Hammer Time

I had that happen on a Lincoln SUV once and the wires were shorted right where they passed through the hole in the windshield frame.

2004 Pontiac Aztec Brake repair

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on 2004 Pontiac Aztec Brake repair

My friend has a Pontiac Aztec and wanted me to hwlp him change brake pads on front. I checked repair guides at Autozone. com but they don't have any information. Could someone tell me the proper procedure so I can do this job correctly? Thanks very much

Response From DanD Top Rated Answer

It’s good that you’re asking this before you attempt this repair; it’s the smart thing to do.
Information providers like Mitchell On-Demand or All-Data will sell you time on their web sites.
I know a lot of people think that they can stuff a set of brake pads on their vehicle; which is likely true but to do it properly is another story.
Small things that are actually very important things; cleanliness for one, is the last people are thinking of, as they’re taking off the old blackened, worn out rusty pads.
If you contaminate the new pads with this soot & rust; you’ve just shortened the pads life expectancy and there efficiency.
Calipers, caliper perches, guide pins and rubber bushings need to be cleaned and lubricated with the proper materials. Using plain old high temperature grease or petroleum solvents on the rubbers and you may as well have used superglue. Brake rubber will swell and stick the things they’re supposed to guide freely; if the wrong lube/cleaners are used.
So thank you for trying to do your homework before doing this for your friend; you never know it might be them coming at me in my rearview mirror.

Dan.

Please help - 1996 Pontiac grand am radiator hose

Showing 2 out of 22 Posts | Show 20 Hidden Posts
Question From kkaiser80 on Please help - 1996 Pontiac grand am radiator hose

I own a 1996 Pontiac grand am SE 3.1l v6. A radiator hose recently came loose and dumped all my antifreeze causing me to overheat, I found the loose hose and reconnected it to the radiator and tightened the clap down. I purged the system and refilled it full of coolant. I drove it about twenty miles and my temperature gauge showed normal temperature the whole way, when I got home a very small amount of steam was coming by where the hose originally came off. could this just be spilled antifreeze being heated up by the engine? should I spray down the engine bay and drive it again?

Response From GC

It could be. More importantly, did you figure out why the hose came off in the first place? Before I drove it and risked damaging anything, I would want it pressure tested to be sure that there are no leaks. Look carefully at the fitting on the radiator that it came off of. Did you look at the hose closely when it was off? Normally when a hose pops off, Im inclined to replace the hose and any clamps and look carefully for leaks elsewhere. I wouldnt spray down the engine bay, but thats just my opinion, I dont like spraying water or cleaner onto electronics. People do it, but I dont like it. Id rather spend a bit more time trying to wipe it down carefully.

Response From kkaiser80

So replace the clap and hose. Ok, I'm just wondering why the steam was so minimal and to the side of the hose, but my cars temperature was normal if not lower then normal after driving twenty miles. I notice a bulge just before the clamp on the hose, not very big though. And just a month ago I could smell antifreeze in the cab, especially with heater on, so I put radiator stop leak which reduced the smell almost completely. could the leak be coming from that hose causing the smell, and maybe a pressure problem which initially knocked the hose off? And its still leaking on something hot causing the steam? I appreciate the help.

Response From nickwarner


And just a month ago I could smell antifreeze in the cab, especially with heater on, so I put radiator stop leak which reduced the smell almost completely.




Oh boy, you've gone and made your life much more difficult. You'll find yourself regretting doing that. I wouldn't drive to the parts house to get the hose. The hose is compromised and has failed. You might make it, but maybe not.

Response From kkaiser80

So with this said, don't go no where, get that hose. By walking my ***. Lol. And possible flushing and pressure test? Where to go to get pressurr tests? And are the walmart radiator flush kits worthy? Recommendation? Maybe a list of exactly what to do?thanks guys.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

If you have to walk that's a problem getting things or would be for many. I don't like those flush kit things you install in a hose. That's worth just paying to have done and many deals out there but may surface leaks but better to know then not.
Many parts outlets rent things like pressure testers free, full cost deposits on safe return. Know how to use one or learn. Cheap enough to own is a dental type mirror to look for active leaks. Wipe dry and see them return is good proof. 3.1 engine right? Water pump is easy on those so look under side of it, flashlight, mirror or come up with a wet finger there's trouble there to isolate.


Hoses can make a fish line type squirt at another area and fool you so look hard for real source.


Car repairs certainly can be costly but more costly in many area to do wrong or break something for lack of tools or know how so work on what is realistic to do yourself or send out.


Coolant anything warnings: It's highly toxic so don't allow it sitting in a pan as animals really will drink it! Disposal of it - use your head. Ask where you buy it is a good bet. Filling the system can be difficult to know it's truly full. Just that, know how or get help.


As heard from a carpenter. "Measure twice, cut once" is a good rule of thumb


Tom

Response From kkaiser80

Ok I know what to do now. Thanks! Can anyone explain the steam even though the car was not overheating after twenty miles. For details read the top post. It was a very small amount of steam.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

After 20 miles it should have quit active steam so high chance something is however slight still leaking on something hot,


T

Response From kkaiser80

Yeah because I just checked the level of coolant which is still full. If anything slightly under. And then got the car to normal running temperature (idling) while keeping a close eye, no steam or anything. I'm going to replace the hose, and see if that stops the leak/ that steamy occasion. And then possibly get it flushed, its not overheating at all. Actually since I had to put new coolant in it due to the hose coming off in the first place it actually ran cooler on the temperature gauge then normal.not by much at all.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - just get rid of hose but of course you have to drain coolant to do that. Full at a recovery tank is not proof that it's really full in system, know that. Many cars can cycle just cold to warm and self purge out last air and some don't. That air unseen inside engine where sensors are can fool sensors for how hot it is and should be in liquid not air.


Sealer must go - no if's and's or but's. It's clogging areas usually heater cores first, radiator or just inhibiting system to work properly.


Beat on this a bit as I do: Sealers are mostly just sawdust that seeks a leak, expands and can seal it. Fine except cooling systems for decades are designed with smaller passage ways smaller and more efficient for their size. Lighter metals and don't really even flush out so well. Days of things you could put a coat hanger thru are ancient history - laugh/cry - I was there!


I don't think you can save that antifreeze now or at least the best attempt would be iffy to filter it all out. There should be hex or possibly square bolts low on sides of engine block to get it all out. Know which ones. The easily seal up with junk anyway there but engine is not really empty with a radiator draining alone. Usually those plug bolts mentioned you just poke some soft wire or plastic then the rest comes out. OK if you don't do that or find them at least flush till clear, thermostat out all directions. Add pure antifreeze based on listed capacity first then the water for a 50/50 mix is almost always best with few exceptions,


T

Response From kkaiser80

The coolant in it now, doesn't have the stop leak in, I put that in a month ago. Yesterday my hose came out, dumped the coolant that had the stop leak everywhere, today I put the hose back on, opened up the purge valve or whatever to let air out of the system and filled it with fresh coolant until it filled up and out the purge valve, meaning full. I drive it twenty five miles or so and it didn't get hot, and I didn't notice any steam. I parked and seen a slight amount of steam near where the hose had can undone and dumped coolant. It was a small amount of steam. The steam was gone in probably twenty seconds it was that small of a amount.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You didn't flush it so it still has sealer in it just less now. No pressure test mentioned so you aren't done and still not sure of much yet. Hope you aren't just adding pure antifreeze as alone it's a terrible coolant and must be a mix with water.


Steam still an unknown and if any air trapped a maybe purge port or not. You need to start engine cold feeling upper radiator hose with no pressure squeeze it and look for bubbles at recovery tank and let warm up also till hose gets warm up to too hot to touch means thermostat has opened and most would burp out air at that time to recovery tank. Shut down engine and as it cools off the volume of coolant shrinks and draws back coolant from the recovery tank not air in cycles of that stays air free inside the engine but only if it is tight. If it can't hold pressure then wherever it leaks just draws air back in there.


You aren't done. You'll blow this engine for not making it right is the risk - your money, your call now,


Tom

Response From kkaiser80

So start engine and squeeze upper radiator to check if there is pressure? And if I hear air being drawn in I'll know there's a leak. And once I squeezed hose bubbles should or shouldn't appear in reservoir? And yes, the antifreeze I had to dilute by Adding water. Dexpool extended life.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

The idea is feeling the upper hose, a larger hose, you should be able to squish it some cold -- that should be NO pressure feel. Saying this as I doubt you have a pressure tester - yet?
Start engine and as it warms the coolant mix will expand as it warms and you would feel hose gain pressure as it should. At the point of the rating on pressure cap it sends the extra out to that tank maintaining the pressure but not too much.


As coolant cools it shrinks and pressure cap will allow air up top into the recovery tank but return liquid coolant from the bottom to engine and radiator. I'm saying that the small hose from radiator to that recovery tank goes into bottom of the recovery tank, any air would rise but draw back only liquid. That if perfect on many would self purge air out of the system but not all.


If you just squeeze that upper hose when there's no pressure and air bubble up into recovery tank there more air where it doesn't belong - test still inconclusive as to why. It could just not have bleed out air from draining for any reason or sucking air back in thru a leak instead of the recovery tank. OR, could have combustion gasses being introduced into cooling system which is usually from a blown head gasket.


If head gaskets can do that the pressure frequently builds in the system much faster than from just warming up, never be properly air/vapor free and problems will show up and get worse.


Doing this with about no tools so just know that upper hose stays cool till thermostat opens. Also if heater whether needed or not can't blow warm/hot air it's probably air in system or vapors from combustion as a clue. Another clue it level in recovery tank getting fuller is indicative of problems. Pressure cap controls how much pressure and allows the air back in. That if no good screws the show up too.


HEY - USE A GLOVE IT TOUCHING HOSE AS I SAID. HOSE SURE CAN GET HOT ENOUGH TO BURN YOU AND STAY AWAY FROM MOVING PARTS WITH A RUNNING ENGINE ALWAYS!


Some cars are plain fussy and time consuming to plain fill. Shops will use a vacuum fill method which is a must on some cars and doesn't tie up the vehicle getting it properly filled quickly.


Anything more confusing about this it needs to be sent out. That's as primal as I can get,


T

Response From kkaiser80

When I squeeze the hose with engine cool and off no bubbles appear, so no air is being pushed in the reservoir, and with engine on and at running temperature the hose has good pressure.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK, so far so good and glad it holds pressure but again not build up too fast as said.


As for odor for so long IDK for sure. If it runs well and coolant level stays between cold/hot marks on the recovery tank you may be ok. Heater should be able to run normally and no overheat warnings from a light or the gauge. You may have lucked out. Check it like a hawk till all is stable and carry some extra antifreeze with you.


One more: If the spring looking type clamp that both a hex or flat head screwdriver works it check it on a new hose later, engine off but on warm side and just make those - say - screwdriver tight. They work and are used a lot. Good luck,


T

Response From kkaiser80

Thanks, yeah, no over heating, and I've carried a antifreeze jug and a couple liters of water in the trunk in case anything happens. The hose seems to be tight and stable everytime I Check it, and antifreeze remains in the reservoir everytime I check. Thank you so much.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks for bringing that up Nick. I forgot and was concentration on the dang clamp bull. Days of cutting off a hose to a good spot are long gone too. Hose needs to be out of there and sealer flushed out. I'll save the novel on why just get it out and fix leaks.


Too bad assorted junk doesn't come with bold printed warnings that it may not work and may cause a small problem to be a disaster. If it sells they'll make it. Buyer beware on magic like that,


T

Response From kev2

the swelling bulging hose is reason enough to replace it...

At the shop we would replace hose and then pressure test the cooling system - trying to recreate the failure or being satisfied we have corrected it before returning to service.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Notes on this: You tightened the clamp so it's not an original clamp that stays tight by itself under spring action. OE clamps can be a pest or cut off along the way and these get used.........
http://ts1.mm.bing.net/th?id=H.4738501237672768&w=183&h=182&c=7&rs=1&pid=1.7


Fine but you need to snug those up after a warm up and again later before they will stay OK for a long time.


This type was almost the only type used TMK by GM that stays tight........Basic style idea shown........
http://ts1.mm.bing.net/th?id=H.4553774708688484&w=226&h=170&c=7&rs=1&pid=1.7


Can take a special tool to get those off and back on. Those first clamp types can wreck a good hose if overtightened.


OK: The smell of any spilled antifreeze should have dissipated in 20 miles of use so needs more checking. Avoid washing engine but suggest blow off any pooled antifreeze if any or dry it up with towels.


You might have lucked out on real damage? T

Response From kkaiser80

I didn't smell anything today driving that twenty miles, that was a month ago prior to using stop leak. And so the bulge could be from the clamp being to tight? The only thing that happened was a very small amount of steam coming from by the hose that had came off yesterday.

Response From kkaiser80

I only noticed the bulge after it had been running for a while. This all makes sense now. Need to replace that hose. Is it safe to drive the car to get the hose? It didn't overheat at all for twenty miles, the auto part store is near two miles away. Thanks guys.