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Dorman
1987 Nissan Pathfinder Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-368BEF8    955-203  New

Qty:
$11.80
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • Manual Black
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automatic Dimming Mirror: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Extendable Mirror: No
    • Feature - Benefit 1: Direct Replacement For A Proper Fit Every Time
    • Feature - Benefit 2: Available For The Left And Right Sides Of The Vehicle
    • Feature - Benefit 3: A Necessary Item For Passing State Inspection
    • Feature - Benefit 4: No Special Tools Necessary For Installation
    • Fold Away Mirror: Yes
    • Heated Mirror: No
    • Housing Material: Plastic
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Mirror Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Paintable: Yes
    • Turn Signal Indicator Present: No
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1987 - Nissan Pathfinder Right
Dorman
1987 Nissan Pathfinder Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-368BEF8    955-203  New

Qty:
$11.80
  • Manual Black
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automatic Dimming Mirror: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Extendable Mirror: No
    • Fold Away Mirror: Yes
    • Heated Mirror: No
    • Housing Material: Plastic
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Mirror Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Paintable: Yes
    • Turn Signal Indicator Present: No
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1987 - Nissan Pathfinder Right
Dorman
1987 Nissan Pathfinder Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-562F65E    955-202  New

Qty:
$11.80
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • Manual Black
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automatic Dimming Mirror: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Extendable Mirror: No
    • Feature - Benefit 1: Direct Replacement For A Proper Fit Every Time
    • Feature - Benefit 2: Available For The Left And Right Sides Of The Vehicle
    • Feature - Benefit 3: A Necessary Item For Passing State Inspection
    • Feature - Benefit 4: No Special Tools Necessary For Installation
    • Fold Away Mirror: Yes
    • Heated Mirror: No
    • Housing Material: Plastic
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Mirror Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Paintable: Yes
    • Turn Signal Indicator Present: No
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1987 - Nissan Pathfinder Left
Dorman
1987 Nissan Pathfinder Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-562F65E    955-202  New

Qty:
$11.80
  • Manual Black
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automatic Dimming Mirror: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Extendable Mirror: No
    • Fold Away Mirror: Yes
    • Heated Mirror: No
    • Housing Material: Plastic
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Mirror Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Paintable: Yes
    • Turn Signal Indicator Present: No
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1987 - Nissan Pathfinder Left
Dorman
1996 Nissan Maxima Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-41B450D    955-442  New

Qty:
$35.78
Dorman Door Mirror  Right
  • Power wo/Heat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automatic Dimming Mirror: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Extendable Mirror: No
    • Feature - Benefit 1: Direct Replacement For A Proper Fit Every Time
    • Feature - Benefit 2: Available For The Left And Right Sides Of The Vehicle
    • Feature - Benefit 3: A Necessary Item For Passing State Inspection
    • Feature - Benefit 4: No Special Tools Necessary For Installation
    • Fold Away Mirror: Yes
    • Heated Mirror: No
    • Housing Material: Plastic
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Mirror Adjustment Type: Powered
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Paintable: Yes
    • Turn Signal Indicator Present: No
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Nissan Maxima Right
Dorman
1996 Nissan Maxima Door Mirror - Right Dorman

P311-41B450D    955-442  New

Qty:
$35.78
  • Power wo/Heat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automatic Dimming Mirror: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Extendable Mirror: No
    • Fold Away Mirror: Yes
    • Heated Mirror: No
    • Housing Material: Plastic
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Mirror Adjustment Type: Powered
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Paintable: Yes
    • Turn Signal Indicator Present: No
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1996 - Nissan Maxima Right
Dorman
1999 Nissan Frontier Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-0E9788F    955-481  New

Qty:
$35.07
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • Manual Fold Away
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automatic Dimming Mirror: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Extendable Mirror: No
    • Feature - Benefit 1: Direct Replacement For A Proper Fit Every Time
    • Feature - Benefit 2: Available For The Left And Right Sides Of The Vehicle
    • Feature - Benefit 3: A Necessary Item For Passing State Inspection
    • Feature - Benefit 4: No Special Tools Necessary For Installation
    • Fold Away Mirror: Yes
    • Heated Mirror: No
    • Housing Material: Plastic
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Mirror Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Paintable: Yes
    • Turn Signal Indicator Present: No
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Nissan Frontier Left
Dorman
1999 Nissan Frontier Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-0E9788F    955-481  New

Qty:
$35.07
  • Manual Fold Away
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automatic Dimming Mirror: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Extendable Mirror: No
    • Fold Away Mirror: Yes
    • Heated Mirror: No
    • Housing Material: Plastic
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Mirror Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Paintable: Yes
    • Turn Signal Indicator Present: No
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1999 - Nissan Frontier Left
Dorman
1991 Nissan Sentra Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-1B185DF    955-151  New

Qty:
$19.83
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • Manual Remote Control Built in Japan
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automatic Dimming Mirror: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Extendable Mirror: No
    • Feature - Benefit 1: Direct Replacement For A Proper Fit Every Time
    • Feature - Benefit 2: Available For The Left And Right Sides Of The Vehicle
    • Feature - Benefit 3: A Necessary Item For Passing State Inspection
    • Feature - Benefit 4: No Special Tools Necessary For Installation
    • Fold Away Mirror: Yes
    • Heated Mirror: No
    • Housing Material: Plastic
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Mirror Adjustment Type: Manual Remote
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Paintable: Yes
    • Turn Signal Indicator Present: No
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Nissan Sentra Left
Dorman
1992 Nissan Tsuru Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-1B185DF    955-151  New

Qty:
$19.83
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • Manual Remote Control Built in Japan B13 Body Code
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automatic Dimming Mirror: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Extendable Mirror: No
    • Feature - Benefit 1: Direct Replacement For A Proper Fit Every Time
    • Feature - Benefit 2: Available For The Left And Right Sides Of The Vehicle
    • Feature - Benefit 3: A Necessary Item For Passing State Inspection
    • Feature - Benefit 4: No Special Tools Necessary For Installation
    • Fold Away Mirror: Yes
    • Heated Mirror: No
    • Housing Material: Plastic
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Mirror Adjustment Type: Manual Remote
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Paintable: Yes
    • Turn Signal Indicator Present: No
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Region
1992 - Nissan Tsuru Left Mexico
Dorman
1987 Nissan Pathfinder Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-22F853A    955-200  New

Qty:
$12.09
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • Manual Chrome
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automatic Dimming Mirror: No
    • Color/Finish: Chrome
    • Extendable Mirror: No
    • Feature - Benefit 1: Direct Replacement For A Proper Fit Every Time
    • Feature - Benefit 2: Available For The Left And Right Sides Of The Vehicle
    • Feature - Benefit 3: A Necessary Item For Passing State Inspection
    • Feature - Benefit 4: No Special Tools Necessary For Installation
    • Fold Away Mirror: Yes
    • Heated Mirror: No
    • Housing Material: Plastic
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Mirror Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Paintable: No
    • Turn Signal Indicator Present: No
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1987 - Nissan Pathfinder Left
Dorman
1993 Nissan Altima Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-4DA2B10    955-437  New

Qty:
$44.25
Dorman Door Mirror  Left
  • Power
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automatic Dimming Mirror: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Extendable Mirror: No
    • Feature - Benefit 1: Direct Replacement For A Proper Fit Every Time
    • Feature - Benefit 2: Available For The Left And Right Sides Of The Vehicle
    • Feature - Benefit 3: A Necessary Item For Passing State Inspection
    • Feature - Benefit 4: No Special Tools Necessary For Installation
    • Fold Away Mirror: Yes
    • Heated Mirror: No
    • Housing Material: Plastic
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Mirror Adjustment Type: Powered
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Paintable: Yes
    • Turn Signal Indicator Present: No
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1993 - Nissan Altima Left
Dorman
1993 Nissan Altima Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-4DA2B10    955-437  New

Qty:
$44.25
  • Power
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automatic Dimming Mirror: No
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Extendable Mirror: No
    • Fold Away Mirror: Yes
    • Heated Mirror: No
    • Housing Material: Plastic
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Mirror Adjustment Type: Powered
    • Mirror Type: Powered Mirror
    • Paintable: Yes
    • Turn Signal Indicator Present: No
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1993 - Nissan Altima Left
Dorman
1987 Nissan Pathfinder Door Mirror - Left Dorman

P311-22F853A    955-200  New

Qty:
$12.09
  • Manual Chrome
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automatic Dimming Mirror: No
    • Color/Finish: Chrome
    • Extendable Mirror: No
    • Fold Away Mirror: Yes
    • Heated Mirror: No
    • Housing Material: Plastic
    • Installation Hardware Included: Yes
    • Mirror Adjustment Type: Manual
    • Mirror Type: Non-powered Mirror
    • Paintable: No
    • Turn Signal Indicator Present: No
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1987 - Nissan Pathfinder Left

Latest Nissan Repair and Mirror Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1997 Nissan altima radiator leak problem

Showing 2 out of 24 Posts | Show 22 Hidden Posts
Question From bball_1523 on 1997 Nissan altima radiator leak problem

Year of vehicle: 1997
Make of vehicle: Nissan
Model of vehicle: Altima
Engine size (2.0/ 5.7) : Not sure, but it's 4-cylinder
Mileage/Kilometers: not sure, I think around 19-20 mpg
Mileage reading: somewhere over 114,000

When I went to get an oil change at Valvoline sometime last week, one mechanic told me that I need to get a radiator hose replaced because they said the radiator was leaking from there. I declined to get it fixed, and took my car to an official Nissan dealer and they diagnosed a slew of problems.

Here is what Nissan says I need to get fixed, and it all adds up to around $2708.90:

1) Intake gaskets leaking
2) radiator leaking: upper radiator, and hose
3) 3 motor mounts broken
4) brake flush
5) power steering fluid flush
6) fuel induction service
7) fuel injector service

I recorded a video of the leak here:

I am wondering if anyone knows what the problem could be? Is Nissan right about getting these 7 things fixed? How long can I keep driving the car for until things start to worsen?

One of my plans is to drive less and raise money for the next 6 months, and then get it all fixed, but I'm worried about the car deteriorating even further and causing more damage.

What do you think I should do?

Response From DanD

I’d say that your list is set in the proper order of priority; but without knowing how bad the intake gasket is leaking, maybe have the cooling system leaks fixed first.
The first three being left unattended too will or could cause more damage.
A leaking intake will cause an engine to run lean (to much air compared to fuel ratio); a lean engine runs hot.
A leaking cooling system is more of a problem then just the coolant leaking out. Cooling systems are designed to work under pressure; for every pound of pressure, the boiling point of the coolant rises by 3 degrees. With a cooling system allowed to run in atmospheric pressure, the coolant may begin to boil as it passes through the cylinder heads. Your temperature gauge may show a normal temp but internal engine temperatures are soaring; the coolant comes off of boil after it leaves the cylinder head and passes the temperature sensor.
Broken engine mounts put strain on the drivetrain; axle shafts are forced to run out of their normal plain (angles) causing excessive wear. Also an engine that is allowed to move around under the hood could be the cause of the radiator leaking; the engine maybe pulling on the hoses?
The last 4 items are maintenance issues; yes important but if you have to put something off, it would be them.

Dan.

Response From dave284

$2700.00!!!!! Good God, I would get another estimate....sorry for being so blunt but I can't see paying for a repair job that cost as much as a reman engine.

Response From bball_1523

If I were to put off any repairs for 6 months until I tried to raise money for the repairs, do you think my car would survive without any extra major damage or breakdowns?

I am thinking about getting another estimate at a local repair shop.

The first three items would cost me $2255, as they are $900, $575, and $780, in order.

Response From dave284

If your'er low on funds now....I would certainly take care of that radiator leak first, cause if that motor ever over heats bad enough....its done for.

Response From bball_1523

I took my car in to a different shop and they told me to replace the radiator hoses, and that they will check for other problems as well. What do you guys think?

I had my service engine light come on for a while before last week Monday. Last week Monday I took the car in to a Nissan dealer and the turned off the service engine light and it hasn't come on since then. Does this say anything about any problems my car is having?

Response From bball_1523

So I got the radiator hoses replaced at a local shop by someone that I kind of know and was told that the radiator is not leaking.

Other things recommended in order of importance:

1) replace two front tires because of wearing tread
2) front and rear motor mounts need to be attended to within a month
3) brake fluid flush
4) Outer CV boots cracking
5) rear brakes near minimum, check at 119,700 miles (right now I'm somewhere in the 114,000 range)
6) windshield washer reservoir cap
7) clean leaves from cowl

Does anyone have any advice for any of these items? I'm glad to know that the radiator isn't leaking, so I'm wondering why Nissan told me so. Maybe one of them didn't look carefully?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Comments after ***s


1) replace two front tires because of wearing tread **** if legal can wait
2) front and rear motor mounts need to be attended to within a month ****may save and expensive problem to do now.
3) brake fluid flush ****cheap if bleeders cooperate.
4) Outer CV boots cracking ****entire shafts are cheap enough when they fail vs just removing for the boots.
5) rear brakes near minimum, check at 119,700 miles (right now I'm somewhere in the 114,000 range) ****how do you have less miles now??
6) windshield washer reservoir cap ****free at junkyards or use aluminum foil....Not big bucks anyway new.
7) clean leaves from cowl **** why is that so difficult - just do it!
_________________

T

Response From bball_1523

What do you mean by the tires being legal? I tried the penny method and it's worn down according to the penny.

For #5, I don't know the exact miles driven so I gave an estimate. In my first post, it shows what the miles were at one point. My car has obviously driven more up to this day.

for #3, what do you mean by "cheap if bleeders cooperate"?

For the CV boots, are you saying that I shouldn't fix them and let them wear out, and my car will be fine?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Tires legal: There are small triangle arrows indicating the treadwear minimum on the sidewall pointing to raised spots in the tires grooves. If any of those are flush with the tread the tire is no longer legal for street use.

Bleeders: Some will be stuck and may not bleed or remove to clean or replace without breaking off. If that happens it opens up a series of replacing stuff back to where things are not rusted wjere new line can be flared into good line - a nightmare sometimes!

CV boots: I won't do them. They make kits that go around and seal up that are marginal at best. Whole rebuilt driveshafts are available with new boots and checked out or new CV joints for as low as $59 bucks for some cars! Check locally for your car. Why bother if they are that cheap is why I said that. If your are expensive and the joints still good get a price on that part of the job alone,

T

Response From bball_1523

I am still not understanding what you are saying about tires. I measured my tires with a penny and I think it's 2/32" of tread left. (if tread is even the right word). Sorry I'm a rookie at maintaining my car, and I've been driving for over 7 years.

Response From Tom Greenleaf


There are hidden bumps like shown above that shouldn't be flush with the actual tread left. I'd use the Lincoln's head test on those personally but they are legal till those are flush. There's an arrow on the sidewall at the several points around the tire where the raised parts between treads are. Many tires will look fine on the inside or outside but you go by the worst wear found to rate the legality of the tire.

IMO - tires are your #1 line of defence in safety! No matter what contraptions you design into a car for stopping, traction and handling the tire is the only thing actually touching the road! Being legal is one thing but the truth is tire's traction ability is severely compremised after let's say "half worn" area. That tread is primal for wet roads and your best chance with mud, snow and ice conditions which all vary of course.

Prices vary widely for tires. If costs must be kept low consider inspected, matching used tires if needed.

Exact size and ratings suggested by manufacturer is also paramount. It's engineered into the handling of the vehicle,

T

Response From bball_1523

I've been told that my Outer CV Boots are leaking grease. Should I get them fixed?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Yes, no and maybe?? Why are they leaking grease? If the boots have split shafts need to be removed to install new ones. It can be close to the cost of whole rebuilt replacement 1/2 shafts just to do that.

If a clamp is loose or missing for some reason - yes fix that.

Once water and dirt get into the CV joint it's game over IMO. They might go a long time and still behave before the first symptom shows up. You decide based on how they feel or professional advice on their safety. They usually give fair warning noises when it's time to replace. Not always though - watched a neighbor pull into their driveway and one let go right then and all the balls of the joint rolled down the driveway - funny but not and that one didn't warn them!

What you do about yours right now is a judgment call for you and or with a tech's advice and close inspection,

T

Response From bball_1523

I'll have a mechanic check and advise me again.

Response From Guest

Today I checked under my car and saw the coolant leaking. I think there's another problem with a leak. The leak is under the front passenger side of the hood, underneath the car.

The reservoir tank is also almost empty! I just a 50/50 prediluted fluid for it.

Does anyone know what the issue might be? Do you think the radiator is really dysfunctional?

Response From bball_1523


Today I checked under my car and saw the coolant leaking. I think there's another problem with a leak. The leak is under the front passenger side of the hood, underneath the car.

The reservoir tank is also almost empty! I just a 50/50 prediluted fluid for it.

Does anyone know what the issue might be? Do you think the radiator is really dysfunctional?

haha, sorry that guest is me, I didn't realize that I wasn't logged in.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Is the reservoir and or hose to it leaking?

T

Response From bball_1523

I don't know if the hose is leaking, but I think just the right of the reservoir, underneath the car it is leaking. I can see a small amount of green coolant about to drip hanging on to something under my car.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

When cool - chase it with a paper towel or your finger. More often than not the source of a leak will be the highest and most forward of where evidence is found. Those tanks can crack and hose could be faulty - this is a look and find job now. Some hidden leaks you can use a dental type mirror to look up at the bottom of items,

T

Response From bball_1523

I took the car back to a shop I have recently been going to and they found that the top of the radiator, where the radiator cap is, is cracked and leaking. I literally could see coolant leaking out from their.

Anyways they are going to fix it this week and I think it may cost at most around $400.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

he good new is now you know the source! Materials used or where it leak might be able to be properly fixed. Not your average "just goo it up" but a proper fix may be available depending on just what, how and where. A real radiator shop would likely be privy to the latest for the chance of that if the radiator is ok as a whole and might be a practical choice,

T

Response From Fant

I tell you what - if you really love your cars you have to spend some time with it Evrything has to be done by your own hands (IMHO), there will be less problems with it!!!

Response From jayeffel

I would change the radiator hose that is leaking; do it yourself. I've never heard of brake or power steering flush -unless there were severe problems that indicate the need. I understand fuel injectors don't need much attention , okay to put fuel injector cleaner in gas tank. Motor mounts broken, you can check them, motor may notably shake when running.

BTW: mileage requested is odometer mileage, gives an indication of wear and tear. Gas mileage can help also. Good luck.

2005 Nissan altima 2.5

Showing 2 out of 16 Posts | Show 14 Hidden Posts
Question From wmj5299usa on 2005 Nissan altima 2.5

Heater problem-heater works fine on open road
in traffic at light -air gets cooler-accelerate and heat returns
VEHICLE HAS 58000 MILES
PUR NEW IN DEC 2004
ADDED NEW Radiator cap,thermostat was replaced ,also replaced coolant-
mechanic is advising to replace water pump because of wear and not moving enough fluids
any help is appreciated

Response From ara

My 2005 altima does the same thing. I can go outside 10 mins before I leave to start the car for it to be warm for my 2 small children and warm air doesn't blow until I'm half way down the road. My temp gauge is in the middle. It's a pain in the you know what! I bought this car 3 months ago and regret it. Why isn't nissan responsible? I'm horrified to know that so many people are having this issue. I will show this forum to my husband. Thanks.

Response From wmj5299usa


My 2005 altima does the same thing. I can go outside 10 mins before I leave to start the car for it to be warm for my 2 small children and warm air doesn't blow until I'm half way down the road. My temp gauge is in the middle. It's a pain in the you know what! I bought this car 3 months ago and regret it. Why isn't nissan responsible? I'm horrified to know that so many people are having this issue. I will show this forum to my husband. Thanks.


Just purchased a 2011 altima 2.5s and the salesman even cmmented on how much better the heater is in the new Altima's and he is absolutely correct. ON the problem with the heater on the 2005,the best situation is start engine and then turn on heater. If you start car with defroster on you will get intermittent heat and cool air.So yes it's better but it ain't fixed.

Response From Hammer Time

This thread is a year and a half old. Please check dates before posting. We don't address more than one vehicle in a question anyway. please start a new one of your own.

Response From Charlean

Hey Ara and wmj5299usa, I'm new to this forum . . . u are absolutely correct, Nissan shld do something about this. I'm having the same issue as we speak. I too, feel better to know that there are others who are hvng the same issue and that I'm not hallucinating. I hv a 2005 Nissan Altima 2.5 - the heat inside was very comfortable at the low setting and now I find myself hvng to blast it at hi and still isn't hot, but lukewarm. When I'm at a stop light, it cools and when I accelerate, it goes to lukewarm. I never had to adjust the temp to hi, always low. I had my radiator hose replaced b/c of leaking and thought that wld fix the heating issue. When I left the dealer after the hose was replaced, my heat was where it was suppose to be at a low setting. After a few hours, unfort., it went back to being lukewarm. They did pressure test which was fine, but noticed that the lower hose wasn't getting as warm as it shld; therefore, they suggested that it could be the therm. This wld cost $243, so I purchased the part ($25) from Nissan and dropped it off at another place this morning. B-4 they installed the therm. they did their own testing and called me a few minutes ago to tell me that they don't think it's the therm. They suggest that I wait until the weather breaks and they'll do another test on it to see if anything has changed. They mentioned that as long as I'm getting some air and the guages inside is normal, to hold off . . . no use in spending money on something that may not fix the problem.
If you have your car checked out, plz let me knw what they suggest.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Just a thought on this:

If this is somewhat common to this exact car and engine then it could be a design flaw.

BTW: Many cars and I'd bet this one included are made for both right and left hand drive. Heater cores are normally placed on the right side of interior where in the US a passenger would sit such as to allow more room for driver controls and heater box designs could be (don't know all for sure) mirror imaged to fit either drive type and should be.

Perhaps this car has a VERY long path of heater hosing that isn't adequate or waterpumps that could be enhanced to remedy the problems - IF THIS IS HAPPENING IN EXTREMES. I have a hard time believing that in moderate conditions this would apply as I'd think the flaw would have been noticed before production of so many vehicles.

As said - just a thought,

T

Response From Charlean

I contacted Nissan today and informed them that there are multiple people having this same problem . . . hopefully, they will look into it. In the meantime, I am scheduled to get a diagnostics test done next week if money allows me to . . . we'll see

Response From way2old

I agree with your mechanic. If impellers are worn, the pump can not pump enough coolant at idle to keep the heat up to normal temps.

Response From wmj5299usa

Thank you, wise one.I felt pretty good about his assesment but wanted a second opinion.You have been extremely helpful.

Response From wmj5299usa

Back to square one.Finished installing new water pump and absolutely no change in heater temperature.heater is fine when in service on highway,any slowdown causes drop in temperature.OLD water pump seemed fine(no wear on impellers)

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Although this is a Tom question, vacuum loss or faulty blend door actuator?

Response From Tom Greenleaf


Self portrait !

No Tom and Kitty don't have all the answers. Generally this would be a water flow problem and may still be. What probably would be noted is WHERE the heat went as input hose should be hot to touch and return cold if it transferrred all that was available. Coolant should win the transfer battle and have enough to return warm coolant still with just a heater core.

Thnking??????? At speed there's a lot more flow and temp of coolant is probably at it's most as allowed by thermostat. The "residence" time of air matters too. I think available heat has been transferred and a return hose will be found cool/cold in this car. They are usually designed to limit pressure from water pump using a few concepts - smaller hose to inlet, retriction in the inlet hose, water flow regulator (AKA-Heater Control Valve if used) in line on inlet hoses. Return line must have a clear path back to engine with little restriction. Just maybe return gets some problem or pressure slowing the flow at lower rpm.

Hoses just might have a flaw in them. If all items flush thru properly both ways it kind of rules that all out.

Question for this is does the temp remain constant or fluctuate. I'm wondering if prescribed leakage past thermostat allows engine to run too cool at lower speeds - complete "I dunno" so far and would be checking temps all over this thing to see and feel what temps are where??

T

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Self portrait? I knew you had to better looking than Kitty!

Response From wmj5299usa

Tom or whomever, on highway at normal speed the heater is perfect.As soon as you start slowing down there is a temperature drop,when you come to complete stop the air is cool and continues on cool until you accelerate.sittin and idling the car has 1 hose hot and the other hose is cool. If you accelerate the cool hose becomes warm again.My mechanic said the only thing left is the heater core .In early morning start ups the defroster will not melt ice on windshield.You must scrape windshield or sit in car and press accelerator.

Response From hubbardk

Hey. I was just wondering if you ever got that heating issue sorted out. I have a 2005 Altima 2.5L with the exact same problem. (And it's really cold here in January!)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I'm not ready for a heater core just yet as this works "perfectly" as you said with RPMs up.

Flow isn't adequate OR the engine is ridding itself of heat too easily elsewhere??

Tests:

1. Check upper hose right after thermostat upon cold start up. It should stay dang near COLD till gauge starts to read a credible temp on dash gauge. The idea of a thermostat is to lock coolant inside engine - allow mixing within engine (the bypass system) and allow whatever temp of coolant available to heater core. That hose frequently will begin near waterpump - may or may not have a water flow regulator on way to core and be unrestricted for return. Some engines use the heater core as a bypass for the engine. This bypass thing is about keeping the engine ONE uniform temp, side to side, front to rear which is imperitive for even expansion of metal and not allowing a hot spot at a distant corner from the water pump which is always working BTW - not just when heat or engine is hot.

1a. If upper hose gets even slightly warm a few inches away from thermostat towards radiator then I'll declare the thermostat is leaking past itself too much. In colder weather it doesn't take much radiator with an idling engine to stay cold. Engines generally make abundant heat such that a heater core alone won't prevent it from reaching a normal operating temperature.

2. Does this engine read a "normal" operating temp and stay there? It should reach a spot in normal range and stay there the whole time it's running. Only minimal variations are acceptable - usually too hot for a moment before fans can catch up, at start up after short shut down, or perhaps a sudden slowdown (from hwy speeds) to stop in traffic on hottest of days with A/C having been blasting.
NEED TO KNOW THIS AS FOR THE MOMENT I SUSPECT THERMOSTAT IMPROPERLY INSTALLED OR DEFECTIVE if temp won't stay put.

You notice the temp drop of hoses to core so heat gets exchanged but we still don't know if volume is the problem or the heat went elsewhere - meaning not inside the car.

YOU or mechanic need to follow the path of heat available from heater hose where it starts at engine, see if there's any obstruction or device along the way that might be faulty. I'd try flushing the core just to satisfy myself but I'll bet it's fine. It must flush from first hose at engine to open last connection to engine for return hose to verify the hoses (never seen one faulty but could) do carry coolant and force them both directions. It's possible that multiple ply hose can separate inside and unseen causing blockage

***********

Oddities for this complaint: Anti-freeze 100% pure - not mixed with water! EG is a terrible heat exchanger which is why all say mix 50/50 --- some less! Subnote: 50/50 will read -34F protection - lower(colder) #s not wanted.

Other work: If something else has been done and too much gasket sealer plugged an item this could be trouble.

Thermostats: Ones mounted vertically on engines or hard to get at can fall out of place when assembling causing too much cooling - mentioned earlier.

~~~~~~~~~~~

It's possible that the core is truly plugged up but this is dang early for a 2005 model vehicle IMO. Have you followed coolant change schedules since new? If clogged with corrosion debris it would likely show elsewhere too.

Keep at it and as said - not ready for the heater core yet!

T

AM/FM And CD player works fine but no display

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Question From Guest on AM/FM And CD player works fine but no display

I have a 98 Nissan Altima GXE with Clariion AM/FM - CD player. I disassembled this unit hoping that it could only be a loose connection. The Right lower corner of the message center has a burnt spot but could not tell if that's the way it suppose to be. Can somebody help me how to fix it or if I can buy that display board somewhere else?

Response From kenray

chances are you may have a bad transistor or voltage regulator that supplies voltage to the display.

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

What's the problem with the radio?

The display is a vacuum tube, just like what was used in tvs and radios up through the 1960s. During manufacturing, the air is sucked out, the nipple is melted to seal it, then a white powder inside is flashed with a strobe light to explode it. This burns up any remaining air in the tube. There needs to be a good vacuum in it. The residue left behind from the burning powder is that "burned" spot that often looks like a mirror.

The only thing that goes bad with these display tubes is they can break or the nipple can break off if not handled carefully. When the vacuum is lost, that burned spot will turn back into the white powder.

caradiodoc

Response From Hammer Time

caradiodoc

I'll ask you one more time to register and log in before giving advice.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

caradiodoc; Can I assume from your 'moniker' that you are a cardiologist? Don't give up the day job.

Sentra only works in reverse and drive

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Question From kellybig on Sentra only works in reverse and drive

Helping a friend with his car. Says he put another used tranny in because car was throwing codes and bogging down. Codes are po755 solenoid b tranny code: po731 1st gear ratio code: and po505 code idle air control code. I replaced the solenoids on the cheap. No change. He indicates he sent the ecm into have tested and it is all good. Battery has good amps, no missing fuses. Car only works in drive park neutral and reverse. Dies frequently. Will not up shift or downshift. I am am skeptical that 2 used granny's and solenoid sets are bad. It is a 2001 Nissan Sentra gxe automatic with a 1.8 liter engine. Confused on what to try next. I'm thinking the transmission control unit. Any advice is much appreciated.

Response From gsferraro

Hello,
I believe the P0755 on this trans is an eletrical code, that is why the car is in failsafe, if you clear the code does it come right back?

Response From kellybig

Yes. It does.

Response From gsferraro

Helo,
Of course you have to fix that first, that can be solenoid, wire or computer, but make sure you check fuses and connections first, then ohm the solenoid at the computer, this will check the wire and solenoid. Gary

Response From kellybig

Thanks for the replies Gary. I replaced the solenoid so that rules that out. I am going to replace transmission control unit in the am. The ecm is good. If this does not work should I just start ohm testing all wires from the computers to the tranny?

Response From Hammer Time

I didn't read anywhere that Gary said to replace anything. His instructions were to TEST to find the issue.

Response From kellybig

Because I do not have full time access to the car, replacing the TCU to rule it out is a nominal amount to me.

Response From kellybig

Today had time to pull electrical connections leading from the harness to the tranny; 2 female ends, one had 9 wires/holes to 9 pins the other had seven wires/holes to 6 pins the male end at the top of the transmission is very hard to see; looks like one pin could be broken off; found what looks like a wire coming through on this female end; could this be the culprit?

Response From gsferraro

Any corrosion on the wires? It could be the problem.

Response From kellybig

no corrosion ; just a protruding wire and possible broken pin

Response From Tom Greenleaf

? You see this "possible" protruding wire and broken pin but don't seem so sure. Understood some are hard to get a good look but if just connected ohm test that suspect wire for just continuity.


Yes a broken wire or lack of connection can screw things up - anywhere but you have a problem and this in front of you so fix it or know it's good now,


T

Response From kellybig

I tried to get a couple of pics but they came out bad. Very difficult to see. When I go back I will try to get some pics and test it. I met this guy on Craigslist. He is 94 years old. You are correct. I am not sure. Ran out of time and had to be to another appointment. I can only get over there every few days.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Try getting an automotive dental type mirror if need be - not for a picture just to verify this is broken or not by sight first,


T

Response From kellybig

Will do

Response From kellybig

Forgot to add, fuses are all good.

95 Nissan Sentra Front End Vibration

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From shadowwarrior on 95 Nissan Sentra Front End Vibration

I have front end vibration that while apparent at all speeds, is more apparent between 60 -70 mph. It is very strange. It is inconsistent. I can be driving at 65 with the vibration, the next thing, it's mostly gone. I can be at 75 with no shake and when I slow down and go through that speed range, it starts shaking till I get below 60. I can go into a curve and it may either start or end vibrations. I can be driving at the same speed and it can either start or stop.

I have had front tires replaced. The left one was bad, the other was just worn. Still no change. I have had the front end inspected by one garage, and they told me the front end was good, but that I needed an alignment. I'm sure I do, but this would not cause this vibration. Another place told me both of my CVU axles were bad. I have noticed fluid on the ground by the right front tire, but the vibration SEEMS to be on the left. When the car vibrates, so does the driver side mirror. The other one does not vibrate.

Any ideas?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If front end parts are known safe the alignment can only help but probably isn't the source. Usually tires, tire balance and wheel trueness are at fault but anything that spins with the wheels could be including brake rotors. Bearings and CV joints are a maybe but usually make noises. They could cause vibrations. Find source of the leak and fix before alignment as it may need another alignment after that is fixed depeding on what needs fixing for that.

Note: Noises and vibrations may be from one side and seem like they are the other so all must be checked. Putting front tires and wheels on back would be informative if that changed the problem,

T

Response From shadowwarrior

I know the rotors are good. They were brand new last year and still on their first set of pads. I was told that a CVU boot was torn. There is one noise that I do hear. That is a sound like machinery winding down. This occurs when I slow or stop. I was wondering about the wheel bearings.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

As said - anything that is spinning at wheel speed could be the trouble. By description the sound you hear is a wheel bearing which could cause vibration - that's a severe warning when a wheel bearing can do that and unknown as to if it will last a minute more. CV joint boot being torn has already allowed dirt in there and if it's determined that the joint is still good then decide on whether you want to do just a boot or replace the shaft. Check prices - some are too reasonable to fool with whole and rebuilt.

In general wheel bearings make a whirr or growl and CV joints crackle especially when turning with power applied. You may need both for this. It's hard to feel a problem part sometimes without taking them out

T