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2012 Hyundai Santa Fe Door Mirror - Left LKQ

P311-5BECCAA    HY1320162  New

  • ; Power Assembly; Textured Black; With Heated Glass
Brand: LKQ
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2012 - Hyundai Santa Fe Left
2015 Hyundai Tucson Door Mirror - Right LKQ

P311-487796C    HY1321175  New

  • ; Power Assembly; With Heated Glass; Paint To Match; For Gl And Gls
Brand: LKQ
Position: Right
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
2015 - Hyundai Tucson GL Right
2012 Hyundai Sonata Door Mirror - Left LKQ

P311-55133E2    HY1320165  New

  • ; Power Without Heated Glass; Without Turn Signal; Paint To Match
Brand: LKQ
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2012 - Hyundai Sonata Left
2012 Hyundai Elantra Door Mirror - Left LKQ

P311-11C9DB8    HY1320178  New

  • ; Power Assembly; With Heated Glass; With Turn Signal; Paint To Match
Brand: LKQ
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Body Position
2012 - Hyundai Elantra Sedan Left
2013 Hyundai Veloster Door Mirror - Left LKQ - OE Part

P311-5A9AA1E    HY1320189OE  New

  • ; Power Assembly; With Turn Signal; Without Panoramic Roof
  • OE Part
Brand: LKQ
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2013 - Hyundai Veloster Left
2013 Hyundai Veloster Door Mirror - Left LKQ - OE Part

P311-5A9AA1E    HY1320189OE  New

  • ; Power; Without Panoramic Roof; With Turn Signal
  • OE Part
Brand: LKQ
Position: Left
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2013 - Hyundai Veloster Left

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Whats this part called?

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From zmasterflex on Whats this part called?

2010/2011 Hyundai Elantra. A friend of mine clipped his passenger mirror in the snow so the glass shattered and is now hanging out of the "side mirror assembly". When I took a quick look at it I saw the glass all cracked up but hanging out and held by 2 wires which are presumably for a defroster which his car doesn't come with but are probably stock for all other cars with the mirror. I told him to just buy a new piece of glass which I would swap the wires to and glue back in place. However yesterday when I tried to do just that I discovered that the piece that I was going to glue the glass to- is held to the motor assembly by clips- 2 of these clips are cracked. What is this backing piece that snaps into the motor assembly called so I can order it? thanks in advance for any help.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

I think you're looking at a whole mirror now. The glass is usually the only thing that can be purchased separately.

2008 Hyundai Verna CRDI : Poor pickup

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From vsgiri on 2008 Hyundai Verna CRDI : Poor pickup

Hi everyone,
I own a Hyundai Verna CRDI (1.5L), and I have been observing low pickup issues for a while. The car has run around 60000kms. I'm trying to narrow down the problem myself - so I bought an OBD 2 scanner and coupled it to my tablet with Torque Pro.

One thing that caught my attention is the EGR. When engine is idle, the EGR commanded is 5.4% (should have been 0 - but 5% is probably good enough). However, my EGR error rate is 99.7%. This didn't seem normal. Now when I rev up the engine to around 2000rpm, I see that the EGR % is going to around 50-60% while the EGR error suddenly drops to -99%.

The observation tells me that the EGR is in open loop control, however either the EGR valve position sensor is faulty or the valve itself could be stuck open?

Can someone guide me on how I can go about diagnosing the problem further?

I'm a bit of an enthusiast, but I haven't got my hands dirty yet - are there any other experiments I can run using Torque to diagnose this further?

The scanner shows that no error codes were registered. Also I don't see black smoke - not through my rear view mirror at least. Efficiency has gone down as well - but I'm really concerned about the pickup.

The problem has been around for a year and started off quite abruptly when I felt I lost some power while driving on the highway. Ever since, the problem has persisted. Sometimes, all of a sudden the car comes alive and has excellent pickup. After an overnight rest, it returns to normal. The problem is quite confounding. Any ideas appreciated.


Response From Discretesignals

This forum mainly deals with stateside vehicles, so advice may be limited.

EGR won't cause loss of power on acceleration. The EGR valve should never be open at idle or while reving the engine in park or neutral. The command and error values your seeing on your scan tool may not be right due to software bugs in your tool. If the error was that much when the PCM was actually commanding the valve it would certainly set an EGR code.

Response From vsgiri Top Rated Answer

Thanks for your response. Would you mind sharing some ideas on how I could approach solving the poor pickup problem? Could it be related to the MAF sensor/fuel flow/pressure? Any parameter from the scan tool that might help diagnose this problem? What would be very helpful is some approximate range of values of parameters under idle/load/cruise conditions so at least I can know if something is really off. Right now I'm hunting in the dark. From what you mention, it appears I should set aside EGR for the moment?

Thanks in advance once again for your help.


P0422 - Catalytic converter issues

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From lollupaandi on P0422 - Catalytic converter issues

Car - 2001 Hyundai Elantra, 2.0L, 5-speed manual, 63700 miles.

I bought this car with a P0422 (Main Catalytic converter below efficiency threshold). My state doesn't have emission laws. The upstream O2 sensor was fluctuating always, and the downstream frequently (about once 3 or 4 seconds) dipped below 100 mV. This seemed like the cat was genuinely screwed. I found the same car in the junkyard and replaced the cat, and the o2 sensors from the other car. The error code did not reappear.

This lasted for about a month. The downstream O2 sensor was also steady at 700 mV after warming up. Yesterday, MIL latched on again, and it was P0422 again. This time I made the following observations with the downstream O2 sensor -

1. During idle, it maintains around 700 mV and occasionally dips (about once in 10 secs).

2. If I VERY slowly increase throttle, it is happy and maintains 700 mV.

3. But if I push a little faster (practical for a real driving situation), it dips and recovers.

So I suspect that the problem is elsewhere, somewhere above the cat, in the fuel ratio. I don't know where to start, or if my suspicion is right.

There's always the question that the replaced cat was inherently bad, it coming from the junkyard. But that probability is less I guess, and given the fact that it was working well for a month. I drove a lot of city and highway during the month, so if it was bad in the first place, ECU would have caught it sooner.

Another observation that might help - sometimes (so random that I cannot qualify further) when I press the clutch (with 0 throttle), the engine rpm shoots up to 3000, lingers around there for a few seconds, and then comes down to normal idle.

Any ideas?


Response From Hammer Time

What is it that your hoping to see in the downstream sensor readings?

Response From lollupaandi

A steadier reading maybe? In the old catalytic converter, it was never steady, fluctuating between 15 and 700 mV always. So I'm guessing that the same will happen to this converter as well, eventually. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

A lot depends on the temperature of the Cat which is where the RPM factor comes in. A constant .700 is not real good. What you don't want to see is the rear sensor mirroring the front sensor. It really shouldn't be cross counting at all. A steady reading below 500 would probably be ideal. The computer knows what to look for before setting the code and it has to see it more than once. I certainly don't have a lot of faith in used converters. That's against Federal law too by the way.

Response From DanD

Here’s my thinking/guess; your original converter was burnt out for whatever reason (likely over fueling or misfire). You replace it with a used one, that was on its last legs and whatever burnt out the original, took this one out as well.

Now, you don’t have to guess whether the converter is bad or not because they can be tested; with the use of a gas analyzer and this math formula.
Pre cat gas minus post cat gas divided by pre cat gas multiplied by 100 equals catalyst efficiency percentage.
Anything below 70% efficient is considered junk.

At the same time the converter is being tested you can determine whether the engine output gases are within acceptable levels; as to not burn out the next converter.

Converters do not die of natural causes; they are murdered.

Acceptable pre converter levels are approximately .5% (1/2) carbon monoxide (CO), 50 parts per million hydrocarbons (HC). As for the other gases O2, CO2 and NOX; well they’ll mostly fall in place, once the CO and HC are with in spec and it is high levels of CO & HC that take out converters.

I know that a DIYer will not likely have access to a gas analyzer but I only charge about ½ hour’s labour to perform the test.
This entails drilling a small test port in front of the converter; taking my gas analyzer samples and then plugging the test port; the post cat samples can be taken at the tail pipe.
I do a fair amount of testing on converters; being an accredited repair facility in Ontario’s emissions testing program. Almost every time I find a bad converter; it’s because the engine wasn’t running properly or there has been some form of engine management work done on the vehicle, very recently.


Response From lollupaandi

Thanks guys, for your views.

I actually was debating about buying a new cat, but the junkyard cat came by and I decided to test it before installing a new one. Looks like what I thought is right, and it died.

If something did kill the cat, where do I start to look? I'll try to get the gases analyzed as soon as possible. But if I do find unacceptable upstream gas levels, what's next?

Thanks again.

Response From DanD

But if I do find unacceptable upstream gas levels, what's next?
That all depends on what combination gases are out of line; so to answer your question, I don’t know, not without testing things or receiving accurate test results.
High CO is a product of incomplete combustion of the air fuel mixture. Where all the oxygen has been burnt away; with no oxygen there’s nothing to feed the fire to burn off the remaining partially burnt carbon.
HC is a product of no combustion of all or a portion of the air fuel mixture in the cylinder; in other words raw un-burnt fuel, leaving the cylinder.
There is not a go to thing that will cause higher then “normal” gas readings; but through testing of electronics, ignition & fuel systems and not forgetting that there’s a mechanical engine under all of these systems; you can eliminate the things that are not at fault.

Look at it this way the actual gas readings are like the trunk of a big old tree; at the top of that trunk are hundreds of different branches. You decide on which branch to clime out on, after you’ve performed tests and analyzed those test results. Believe me its not hard to be way out on one of those limbs and then find out you’re wrong.


Response From Hammer Time

Look at it this way the actual gas readings are like the trunk of a big old tree; at the top of that trunk are hundreds of different branches. You decide on which branch to clime out on, after you’ve performed tests and analyzed those test results. Believe me its not hard to be way out on one of those limbs and then find out you’re wrong.

LOL........How true it is

Can't locate cabin air filter & disconnected hose (photos included)

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From sancho on Can't locate cabin air filter & disconnected hose (photos included)

Hi, I'm just trying to replace the cabin air filter on my 02 Hyundai Accent but my car seems to be a bit unusual in that nothing seems to be set up in the way 02 Accents are supposed to be. The cabin air filter is supposed to be sat just behind the glove box but not so in my case. I had a look under the dash and found the most likely looking thing but I just wanted to make sure before I start taking out screws (there are no clips from what I can see, just screws). I've attached a few photos.

This is where the air filter is supposed to be, behind the glovebox, but it doesn't appear to be here.

This is what seems to me to be the most likely candidate for the air filter, but it seems tricky to get behind behind the screws.

Lastly, while I was under the dash, I noticed that this hose was disconnected (I haven't been under here before and I didn't touch anything this time, so I'm assuming it's been disconnected for a while). Is this some kind of drain? The a/c has been running just fine with it disconnected. Do I reconnect it?

I apologise, I know this is a pretty basic question but I just want to make sure I'm doing the right thing here. Thanks in advance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You seem to be right that your pics and what I found don't match exactly and one place doesn't list a filter at all?

OK - This much of questions is that hose that's off belongs back on with or without a clamp. It's so blower motor doesn't suck in junk mostly to cool it.

Filter instructions appear different and you should be certain before messing it up AND that is really has one. Yes it would be behind glove box and more to take off than your first pic. A YouTube of it was there to sell the filter was some help but wasn't exactly yours?
Links generally not allowed but was just selling their own filter you don't have to buy from them..........

I think it's between where actuator cable goes over to the pivot and righter case where you see foam under like a one inch cover? At bottom of that might be a clip and filter slides out?

Can't say much for sure on this one, sorry to leave you to hunt more or another here may know or have better info for this exact car. Seems the exact one ended that model year? Might have to take old one if where I think it is to match up best bet a NAPA or a dealer will be thrilled of course.

Back to that hose left off: Other types of similar don't use a clamp or design hold rubber into hole. That one appears like a pinch type clamp should be on it? Also appears from foam on cable someone has been there before either for filter or something as it's torn which doesn't matter but indicative that's the spot as that cable does seem to have to move to do a filter.

Hope that's of some help. I'd rather you found more exact instructions and NOT break anything in doing this,


Response From sancho

Thanks Tom. Yeah I'd actually seen that video in my quest to find my air filter, that's what led me here.

Is it possible for a car not to have one? Wouldn't that cause damage to the a/c (not to mention lungs)?

If it helps, I'm in Australia, is it possible the setup is different for over here?

There's a few things about this car that have thrown me and I never thought something as simple as cabin air filter would be on that list.

After spending a while looking at it, I've come to the conclusion there really isn't anything that can actually be accessed other than those two clips on the first photo (but I'm sure there's a lot more to do to get into that) or the 5 screws on what I suspected might be the air filter. I really don't see where else it could go. Is there any harm in undoing those 5 screws or am I potentially opening up a whole new can of worms?

And thanks, the hose has been reconnected. I have no idea why it's off but it must have been that way for a while.

Response From Hammer Time

Actually, I be very surprised if it DID have one. They are pretty rare in those smaller cars.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Yes - We've suggested earlier that is might not have one at all.
Damage to lungs!? Not unless you put some harsh chemical something intentionally in the thing.

Other consideration: Now you said AU as a location and if car is likely "right hand drive" the heater box is totally different than cars made left hand drive but not necessarily a 100% mirror image of the other.

Another thought is I think you said air flows thru this system just fine now - right? If so even it does have a filter it still should be working enough. I think the first issue would be lousy air flow or possibly too much odd behavior from A/C vent temps and flow.

IDK - perhaps a dealer with the VIN# ready could prove it does or doesn't have one. Again, it can't be altering the air content of gasses just removing/catching particulates such as dust and pollens.

Country of original destination of a vehicle really matters with what it will be equipped with or mandatory to have to be sold there and varies wildly depending on where. Car makers aren't stupid either and won't offer things that cost a fortune if not in high demand and or expensive to include by regulations,


Response From sancho

Yeah it's right hand drive, and the air flow is completely normal. The only reason I'm pretty keen to get to the air filter (if there is one) is that the car has had a musty smell since the day I bought it. After a while I realised it was coming from the vents. The smell can range from a just a general and mild stale air kind of smell, to a full on "this smells like cat pee" kind of deal, usually when I first start the car. I've run two different types of a/c bomb through it and all that seems to do is buy me a couple of weeks before the smell is back. It just get the feeling it isn't healthy to be breathing this air continually.

So in my mind, I feel like I need to check the air filter for mould or something. I don't really know what else to look for to track the down the source of this smell. I really don't know much about car a/c systems so I'm trying to figure it out as I go along.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Odor thru air ducts is a problem. Products sold for it with assorted help. Some you spray in panel vents some everywhere.

I suggest a product similar or exactly Lysol with setting to "fresh" air, non recirculated first down thru vent by wiper blades where they turn on hood and let that run thru then spray everywhere inside.

This can also be wet from under carpet that may have to come out to fully dry out and also treated.

Real problem. If it's being a mold issue and getting wet all the time you may not win till that is sealed. Air ductwork cleaning could be extensive work.

If humid enough also check when A/C is needed that water drips if A/C is blowing cool air normally that it drips to the ground not wet the carpet. That could be cleared out.

Cabin filter could only help if wet and moldy now then question and fix is why and what to fix so it doesn't do that.

Last ditch you may need to seek pro help. There is some luck with ozone generating machines left in car.

If food something and or constantly being wet and not dried out you might not win this battle well or for any long time.

A living mold you will have to disinfect or it will come right back. Good luck. Rare but some folks get rid of cars over this if bad enough,


Response From sancho

Ah I see, you've definitely cleared some things up for me there. I'll give the Lysol thing a go and start hunting for damp spots.

I was afraid this wasn't a quick fix, even when I was just going with swapping over an air filter.

Summer is just around the corner here and the a/c is going to be seeing a lot of action so I've been trying to get on top of this ASAP.

Thanks very much for your help Tom, I greatly appreciate it, and you too HT.

Response From Hammer Time

The smell is coming from mold that has grown on the evaporator core itself so spraying stuff in vent isn't going to do much of anything. They make some kits for this type of stuff. One of them is a foam that is shop up the drain tube. It expands, covers the evap and then drains out. What I have done sometimes is fill a bug sprayer with Lysol and drill a small hole in the evap case so I can insert the wand and spray down the evap directly.

Response From sancho

Just thought I'd come back to update on the situation and maybe help anyone else who's in the same predicament.

Basically it turns out the cabin filter housing is the thing I suspected (even a dealer didn't realise it so my car must be a little quirky). You basically remove the 5 screws holding the cover in place and it's a much larger panel that comes off than the standard cover behind the glove box.

There was no filter in there, just a mass of old leaves and dead bees etc. So I cleaned all of that out and ordered a filter for an 02 Accent not knowing if it would even remotely resemble the filter my car needs but it fit perfectly thankfully.

I took out the filter again, put the cover back and sprayed some disinfectant into the air intakes like you recommended. We don't have Lysol in Australia, we have something that looks pretty similar. I ended up buying this Valvoline a/c spray from my local auto store.

So I did that and replaced the new filter and so far so good, haven't had that smell come back as of yet. So fingers crossed the job is done.

Thanks again for all your help, and hopefully this will help someone else in the future.

Response From Hammer Time

If it didn't have an easy access door to the filter then it wasn't designed to have one. The basic shape is there because some models did have it but yours did not.

The problem seems to be resolved so I will close this now as solved to keep the spammers out.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Note on Lysol: If hard to find brand try to find exact ingredients in another. I just know that by brand works and do use a "store brand" that's just as good. Idea is you MUST kill mold bacteria not just cover up an odor,


Response From Hammer Time

IF the car has one, it will be vertical, on the right side.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Nice find HT. I see that now as what I first thought is the vertical cover behind cable and would pull tab at bottom, top would pull down to reveal filter? Then the issue would be to match it up to the correct new one, T