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Genuine
2012 Mini Cooper Screw Genuine

P311-47DEB90    W0133-2043493  New

Qty:
Genuine Screw
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Fuel Pump : M8 X 25-8.8 ZNNIV
  • with Washer
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2012 - Mini Cooper John Cooper Works
Pierburg
2009 Mini Cooper Power Brake Booster Vacuum Pump Pierburg

P311-4111547    W0133-1829192  New

Qty:
$192.78
Pierburg Power Brake Booster Vacuum Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Pierburg
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2009 - Mini Cooper John Cooper Works
Pierburg
2012 Mini Cooper Vacuum Pump Pierburg

P311-4111547    W0133-1829192  New

Qty:
$192.78
Pierburg Vacuum Pump
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Pierburg
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2012 - Mini Cooper John Cooper Works Clubman
Genuine
2014 Mini Cooper Clutch Pivot Ball Genuine

P311-252AECB    W0133-2036138  New

Qty:
Genuine Clutch Pivot Ball
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2014 - Mini Cooper Roadster John Cooper Works
Genuine
2014 Mini Cooper Axle Nut Genuine

P311-48117DD    W0133-1829456  New

Qty:
Genuine Axle Nut
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • 22 x 15 - ZNS3
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2014 - Mini Cooper Coupe John Cooper Works
NSK
2014 Mini Cooper Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly NSK

P311-4857568    W0133-1916560  New

Qty:
$246.62
NSK Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: NSK
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2014 - Mini Cooper John Cooper Works
TRW
2014 Mini Cooper Power Brake Booster TRW

P311-039DE07    W0133-1974331  New

Qty:
$555.11
TRW Power Brake Booster
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: TRW
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2014 - Mini Cooper John Cooper Works
Genuine
2010 Mini Cooper Emblem Genuine

P311-569BB36    W0133-1909259  New

Qty:
Genuine Emblem
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Chrome
  • Rear
Brand: Genuine
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2010 - Mini Cooper John Cooper Works
Ajusa
2012 Mini Cooper Turbocharger Gasket Ajusa

P311-1F839CB    W0133-1821267  New

Qty:
$42.30
Ajusa Turbocharger Gasket
  • Outlet
Brand: Ajusa
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2012 - Mini Cooper John Cooper Works
Lemfoerder
2012 Mini Cooper Shock Mount Lemfoerder

P311-1530720    W0133-1666016  New

Qty:
$30.61
Lemfoerder Shock Mount
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Lemfoerder
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2012 - Mini Cooper John Cooper Works Clubman

Showing 1 - 10 of 13,231 Products.


Latest Mini Cooper Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Acronym

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From mtech on Acronym

On a mini cooper/ mini cooper S what does the acronym ASA stand for?

1. fold in mirror module
2. automatic steering actuator
3. automatic stability actuation
4. active stabilization attenuator

Response From Double J Top Rated Answer

If you don't get the answer here...
Go to Minimania.com and post on their message board.

04 Mini Cooper s Harmon Kardon Problem

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Guest on 04 Mini Cooper s Harmon Kardon Problem

My Stereo lights and Head Unit seem to be working fine but there is no sound from the speakers. Every once in a while I'll hit a bump and the radio will come on for about 30 seconds then fade out and pop. Could this be a loose wire? Or am I looking at a much bigger problem?

Response From DrElectrics Top Rated Answer

I think that this may be a loose wire. If you are getting illumination, then the power wire and earth wire are still intact. I would have a look at the back of the unit for any wire fraying or straight up disconnected wires. Should an easy fix.

Mini Cooper maintanence

Showing 3 out of 5 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From zmasterflex on Mini Cooper maintanence

For all those out there brave enough to do their own maintance on the mini cooper here is what you might run into. On 2006 cooper, most jacks won't fit under car (too close to ground) use coopers flimsy jack to raise car a few inches then slide your jack in. Oil filter is a cartridge filter need 36mm socket wrench (access from top, located on rear of engine - the left side when you are facing engine compartment right underneath left exhaust header ___boiling hot). 13mm on the oil drain plug. Regarding brakes, you need a 7mm hex head to remove caliper bolts (5/8 socket to remove caliper mounting bracket). Rotors are bolted on with a very large star-bolt, some type of hardened metal, I broke 2 drill bits trying to drill them out. To top that off there is a sensor in one of the driver side brake pads- yes a sensor- you need to carefully pry it out of the pads backing and snap it into the new pad (using the clip that's on the old pad). Oil change took me an hour, brakes and rotors 2.5 hours. Ridiculous.

Response From re-tired Top Rated Answer

Why were you drilling out the star bolts (torx)? Sounds like a typical brake system . As for hot oil during oil change , wait for it to ciool off. Glad to see you trying to become a diy'er . Just use a little more brain , little less muscle.

Response From zmasterflex

I drilled out the torx bolt because I needed to swap the rotors. I've changed 30-50 sets of brakes with rotors over the past few years sometimes the rotors are held on by these very large screws that are close to impossible to get off so I usually just drill them out, first time cracking a drill bit. As for the hot oil, it's not the oil I was burned on, the cooper's exhaust gets red hot within a minute or two of being turned on never seen that before.

Response From Hammer Time

You could avoid that whole mess by just using an impact driver to take them off in the first place.


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Right Hammer. I've never failed with the impact driver but came close a couple times,

T

2002 Mini Cooper - Steering Wheel Vibrates when Accelerating

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From Hinderloppet on 2002 Mini Cooper - Steering Wheel Vibrates when Accelerating

2002 Mini Cooper
82,000 Miles
4 cylinder, 1.8Liter engine

I recently took my car to a local shop to get the transmission rebuilt. The bearings were gone as was the clutch plate and it was making a grinding noise. Now, when I accelerate at high speeds or accelerate hard, the steering and front end vibrates. The guy I took it to for the rebuild said it is the CV Joints, but when I asked him why I never had this problem before he worked on my transmission, all he could say is "guess they must have just gone bad". He wanted to charge me just $800 for the parts, and I think he did a crappy job on the rebuild. So, not sure if I want to take it back to him.

Response From Hammer Time

He would have removed the axles to remove the transmission. t sounds like he pulled the inner joint apart while tryng to get it out of the transmission.

Response From Hinderloppet

Is that easy to fix, or difficult?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

It probably needs a new axle now. It would have to be inspected.

Car Shaking

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on Car Shaking

I have a 2003 Mini Cooper and it shakes around 55 mph. I had the tires rebalanced and it did not solve the problem. I took it back and they said one of the rims were bent. I replaced the rims and still did not solve the problem. What is causing this problem? Thanks. Henry

Response From pokerlover Top Rated Answer

did you try replacing the tires if the rim was bent maybe a belt is shifted.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

To add to that: All things turning must be true and balanced. Tires left on a bent rim for some time will assume some of the flaws and still shake when on a good rim.

Another possibility is rust between a removable rotor or drum and the hub it mounts to. If there's any rust issue they must be removed to clean them up. Just taking a wheel off and rotating them or for whatever reason some rotors/drums that pull off of hubs collect rust debris which falls down and when retightened will show as a bent rim right away when sometimes there was not problem right before it was touched. Just a thought - that can happen where I am a lot and you can't see that rot in behind without taking them apart but you can check for it by rotating the mounted wheel and watch for trueness on vehicle while hoisted,

T