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Premium Guard
1993 Mazda RX-7 Engine Oil Filter 2 Cyl 1.3L Premium Guard

P311-2208BBC    New

Qty:
$2.58
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Supersede: Replaces PO4610 once inventory is depleted
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1993 - Mazda RX-7 R 1308 -
Bosch
1980 Mazda RX-7 Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Bosch

P311-199791E    New

Qty:
$5.17
Bosch Windshield Wiper Blade  Front
  • Bosch DirectConnect Wiper Blade
  • DirectConnect
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adapters Included: Yes
    • Attached Spoiler / Aerofoil: No
    • Blade Material: Natural Rubber
    • Blade Type: Bracket
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Steel
    • Length: 16
    • Wiper Blade Design: All-season
    • Wiping Edges: 1
  • Bosch DirectConnect Wiper Blades are designed for dependable wiping performance. Every blade incorporates dual steel tension springs and a precision cut natural rubber wiping element. That means premium wiping performance and a clear view. And the exclusive Bosch DirectConnect one-step system makes installation quick and easy.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1980 - Mazda RX-7 Front
Bosch
1980 Mazda RX-7 Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Bosch

P311-070C602    New

Qty:
$10.87
Bosch Windshield Wiper Blade  Front
  • Bosch Excel+ Wiper Blade
  • Excel+
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adapters Included: No
    • Attached Spoiler / Aerofoil: No
    • Blade Material: Natural Rubber W/graphite
    • Blade Type: Bracket
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Steel
    • Length: 16
    • Wiper Blade Design: All-season
    • Wiping Edges: 1
  • Bosch Excel+ Wiper Blades clean windshields better and last longer than ever before. This ultra performance windshield wiper blade features an exclusive dual rubber compound with a fully-enclosed metal tension spring, housed in an aerodynamic steel frame. The result is windshield wiper blades with less streaking and unmatched resistance to wear from weather and corrosive elements. And with the exclusive Bosch DirectConnect one-step system, installation is quick and easy.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1980 - Mazda RX-7 Front
Bosch
1986 Mazda RX-7 Windshield Wiper Blade - Rear Bosch

P311-5916A44    New

Qty:
$5.65
Bosch Windshield Wiper Blade  Rear
  • Bosch DirectConnect Wiper Blade
  • DirectConnect
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adapters Included: No
    • Attached Spoiler / Aerofoil: No
    • Blade Material: Natural Rubber
    • Blade Type: Bracket
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Steel
    • Length: 22
    • Wiper Blade Design: All-season
    • Wiping Edges: 1
  • Bosch DirectConnect Wiper Blades are designed for dependable wiping performance. Every blade incorporates dual steel tension springs and a precision cut natural rubber wiping element. That means premium wiping performance and a clear view. And the exclusive Bosch DirectConnect one-step system makes installation quick and easy.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Bosch
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1986 - Mazda RX-7 Rear
Genuine
1994 Mazda RX-7 Brake Light Switch Genuine

P311-4FA37BE    New

Qty:
$41.38
Genuine Brake Light Switch
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • w' Cruise Control
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Mazda RX-7
Genuine
1994 Mazda RX-7 HVAC Heater Connector Hose Genuine

P311-3999566    New

Qty:
$14.82
Genuine HVAC Heater Connector Hose
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Straight Connector
Brand: Genuine
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1994 - Mazda RX-7
Mahle
1980 Mazda RX-7 Engine Oil Filter Mahle

P311-1918108    New

Qty:
$10.59
Mahle Engine Oil Filter
Brand: Mahle
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1980 - Mazda RX-7
Ishino Stone
1991 Mazda RX-7 Wheel Seal Ishino Stone

P311-208BDAC    New

Qty:
$8.66
Ishino Stone Wheel Seal
Brand: Ishino Stone
This Product is Eligible for Free Ground Shipping
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1991 - Mazda RX-7
Mountain
1986 Mazda RX-7 Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-1842331    New

Qty:
$62.89
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • 5-Lug This rotor has five lug bolt holes - Models with adjustable or sport suspension & convertibles
  • Five lug - Models with adjustable or sport suspension & convertibles
  • Front
Brand: Mountain
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1986 - Mazda RX-7
Mountain
1989 Mazda RX-7 Disc Brake Rotor Mountain

P311-1842331    New

Qty:
$62.89
Mountain Disc Brake Rotor
  • This rotor has five lug bolt holes
Brand: Mountain
Free Ground Shipping on this item
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1989 - Mazda RX-7

Showing 1 - 10 of 5,796 Products.


Latest Mazda Rx7 Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1978 mazda rx-7

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Kodan on 1978 mazda rx-7

to start it as im cranking it over i have to give it gas and
when im at a stop light the car takes so much time to get up to speed.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Have you done any repairs? Have you done any checks?

1988 mazda rx7 starter problems

Showing 7 out of 19 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From spaz on 1988 mazda rx7 starter problems

I own a 1988 mazda rx7 convertible with 86,000 mile on it. I recently replaced the master cylinder for my clutch and also my slave cylinder too. my problem is that after I replaced the items, the car would not start. I bled the slave cylinder and the clutch is working fine now, but now my starter is making a slow grinding noise and it is barely turn from the sound of it. I took it to my work Oreilly's auto parts and tested it on the machine four times, it passed every time. I brought it home and installed it, but the problem hasnt gone away.So I checked the battery and made sure it was fully charged, but it still making a slow grinding noise when I attempt to start and the positive terminal on my battery was starting to smoke while doing so. I drive this car every day and it runs great, please someone help me!! Im running out of ideas.Any help would be greatly appreciated. maybe a ground or something? Im lost.

Response From flownaksala

I have a 1988 RX-7 Turbo with 149K on it. One of the wiring harnesses went bad on it and I had a similar problem. It would cause the car to flood also because it wasn't getting enough spark.

Response From Hammer Time

This thread is over 3 years old. Please start a new one of your own if you have a question.

Response From Discretesignals

Your problem is there staring you right in the face. The smoking battery terminal. You have a bad connection causing high resistance. Clean the battery terminal and post, then see how it works out.

Response From spaz

I just tried what you suggested and its still doing the same thing all I did was change the master & slave cylinder. I didnt even mess with the starter. why would it be acting up like this? Ill put new posts on it tonight and try it again.thanks for your help and if you can think of anything else,please let me know

Response From Hammer Time

Have the battery tested.

Response From Hammer Time

That's what a "conductance" battery test is supposed to tell you.

Response From spaz

had the battery tested and said it was good,brought it home and still the same thing! I think the battery moght be the problem cause, I kept checking the charge on it and it kept steadily droping. It might not be able to hold a charge, getting a new one. old one still under warranty, will let you know.

Response From Discretesignals

The smoking battery terminal is telling you that you have high resistance in that connection. You need to voltage drop the cables to confirm a poor connection or high resistance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If even in 1988 this is likely the thinner metal band cable end clamp(s) at battery I've found they don't age well nor tolerate batteries that can spit acid. Used to be able to get superior end splices but even recently couldn't find them with all the help from a dependable parts store I've dealt with for decades.

It's smoking or did - totally a problem spot. That can be tested but probably will take a new quality cable no matter how good a battery is. Testing one should include how well it can take a hard load (amps available) which a starter is is highly dependant on.

Why did this happen with unrelated work? Who knows? Stuff happens like that sometimes,

T

Response From nickwarner

With DS on this one. Voltage drop your power and ground. If you aren't sure what that is, I'll explain.

Place the red lead of your multimeter on the B+ terminal and the black on the starter end of the same cable. Have someone crank over the motor and watch the reading on the meter. It will show the difference between the two connections, which is how much voltage you have dropped. General rule is .1v per connection drop. You start seeing a .8 or better its a sure thing you have a bad cable. It has to be done under load. Do the same with the ground side.

Just to be the one to ask a dumb question, have you tried barring over the motor by hand yet to be sure nothing crazy happened and the motor locked up? As, Tom said, stuff happens like that sometimes. Murphy's Law has yet to be repealed.

Response From spaz

thanks for the explanation on how to do that voltage drop,I'll do that this weekend. I'm begining to suspect that it the starter again,so just to be ahead of the game I went ahead and ordered a new starter seeing as I am trying to get everything straight. everything else is new why not? willlet you all know the outcome. thanks for the help,its very much apprecaited

Response From nickwarner

Slow down my man. Don't throw parts at it. We don't do that or our customers would be at the door with a shotgun. You can diagnose this with a little testing and save a lot of grief. When I approach a problem like this I first check the battery and connections at it. If it tests properly I ensure the connections at the starter and the engine/body grounds are all clean and tight. If not luck then I VD the cables after first making sure I can bar the engine over with a breaker bar. If the engine is bad nothing electrical will help. Then I put an amp clamp on the cable for the startter and see if its drawing excessive voltage. If it cranks slow but is a power hog thats an obvious sign of a bad one. Once you install it you can't return it and are out the money. Diagnose this and be confident that you spent your money the right way.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You put a socket on the front crankshaft bolt and turn it with a ratchet.

Response From spaz

how exactly would one go about turning the motor by hand? I know it sounds stupid of me to ask but I dont want to do something wrong. Can you turn it like any other motor? I just put the starter in with new battery and all cables are as they should be, motor wont turn.I can hear the starter doing its job yet nothing. The motor was running perfect, would it just sieze up over night? I hope not.please let me know anything you can think.

Response From spaz

call me crazy, but now everything is as it was but now acting as if its flooded or isnt getting a spark. Getting plenty of gas. can smell it, fuses and wires? I think its not getting a spark.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Is the starter motor situation fixed yet? If now cranking at a normal crank speed then if fuel pressure is right do check for spark with a tester. Fuel odor is not helpful as that could be a leak so do tend to ruling that out ASAP,

T

Response From spaz

will do, thanks for the help. Ill let you know if it is the problem. very much appreciated.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just a thought: Is there a hood light that stayed on for the duration of fixing the master and slave cylinder? If so, it doesn't take long surprisingly for that to matter and an old battery could croak from that last nudge of being to low on charge,

T

1985 Mazda RX7 Windshield Fluid light + Poor pressure

Showing 3 out of 9 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 1985 Mazda RX7 Windshield Fluid light + Poor pressure

1985
Mazda
RX7
1.3?
60,000 miles

Hello again. We are getting out lovely mazda back on the road and running. It runs great with one exception. The windshield washer fluid light seems to come on. I have filled the reservoir to the top, and it seems to drain and become empty. There is still a small amount of fluid in the tank and the washer is able to be used. However, when it is used the fluid is very very weak, and wont hardly even reach the windshield. Am I looking at having to replace the windshield washer pump and resavoir? Anyadvice about how best to do this would be great. Thanks guys.

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

How should I find my leak? Any special procedures besides filling it and looking to see whats wet?

Response From Sidom

Find your leak & that could solve your problem. If a hose is split it will leak fluid & lose pressure. Also the nozzels @ the windshield can become clogged. You can clean out the ends with a pin....

Response From Guest

I actually used a pin to reposition the nozzels to point higher so the stream would arc and actually hit the windshield

Response From Sidom

I'm going off memory right now (no access to my datebase) but I believe the washer pump is in the reservoir. You said you reservoir has a leak. If a hose coming off the pump is split that would account for your leak & no pressure. I would find the leak 1st & go from there.

On a side note, once the pressure problem is fixed, you'll probably have to readjust your nozzels

Response From Sidom

Yea that's it. Just see where it's leaking from.... You may have to lift the tank but becareful due to the hoses & 2 wires going to it. Some are bolted down with a bracket, some just slide onto a bracket......

Response From Guest

Hey guys, thanks again. I fixed the problem!!!! I filled the resivoir and did not see any leaks nearby. Then i felt my foot getting wet, it waxs just streaming out the bottom of the car. I followed the tubing from the resivoir, had to take a panel off and found the the Y splitter from the main hose to the nozzels was pretty much completly disolved. After calling around I found the Y splitter for the 5/32 tubing at advance auto parts. I ended up getting new hose at auto zone and replaced the whole system. Overall the project cost around $10!!!! When I tried washing the windows, the spray blew clear over the car :) After repositioning the head with a needle, everything works great and no more error light :) Fun project, thanks guys.

Response From Sidom

Yes good job on trackin it down Dab..... I don't have the patience either Loren....lol
I see you do the same thing with reservoir that I do (yea I used spell check)
My Inspections usually look like... resivoir.... reservor.... TANK!!

Man for the life of me I can't remember that word!!!!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Sidom; Gold star to you! Just wish I could figure out how to do it. Good job. Sure appreciate your help.

No power to coils fuel pump or injectors

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Pollycranopilis on No power to coils fuel pump or injectors

1988 Mazda RX7 Turbo after overheating has no spark and no power to coils, main relays have no power signal and no power to fuel pump and injectors, manually initiated the relays and got spark but have no idea why this is happening all these circuits are on same wire a black with white stripe but with key on it is grounded any help will be appreciated!

Response From Discretesignals

At the main relay do you have power on the following wires with the ignition on?

black/white
black/green
white/blue

Response From Pollycranopilis

Black\white =ground
black\green = +12v
white\blue = +12v

black/white =full ground key off key on is not full ground but 10v or so

Response From Discretesignals

According the wiring schematic there are two black/white wires going to the main relay. Does the relay make a clicking noise when you turn the ignition on and off?

One black/white is hot when the ignition is turned on and powers the coil inside the relay.

The other black/white wire goes to the coils and injectors and is hot when the relay is energized. You have to make these checks with the relay plugged in. That means you have to back probe the relay connector and make your measurements.

Response From Pollycranopilis

coil on relay never energizes the b/w wire is not sending the +12 to it same wire goes to main relay for fuel injectors and ignition coils and the fuel pump

Response From Hammer Time

Something is pulling that voltage down on that wires so we are back to looking for melted or shorted wires.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You said it overheated. Dis a wire get melted anythere?