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Anco
1988 Mazda RX-7 Windshield Wiper Blade - Front Anco

P311-11496BE    New

Qty:
$ 3.15
Anco Windshield Wiper Blade  Front
  • ANCO Conventional 31 Series Wiper Blades 20
  • Original Blade Type
  • 31-Series
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adapters Included: Yes
    • Arm Construction Type: 9x3 Mm Hook, 9x4 Mm Hook, Pin Type .250 Inch (6.35mm)
    • Classification: 31- Series Kwikconnect Blades
    • Connection: J-hook: 9x3mm; J-hook: 9x4mm; Side Pin: 1/4
    • Construction Material: Rubber, Metal, Plastic
    • Feature 1: Affordable Conventional Blade Replacement
    • Feature 2: Duraklear Exclusive Rubber Compound Provides A Consistent Streak-free Wipe
    • Feature 3: Vented Bridge And High Performance Polymer Ensure Oe Fit And Function
    • Feature 4: Kwikconnect Installation System Provides Quick And Easy Wiper Blade Replacement
    • Feature 5: Consistent, Clear Wipe In Any Driving Environment
    • Feature 6: Available In 10" - 28" Lengths
    • Flat Windshield: No
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Conventional Bridge
    • Length: 20.0
    • Length (mm): 508
    • Manufacturer Label: 31-series
    • Market Type: Automotive
    • Overall Length (mm): 516
    • Part Description: Conventional Style Bridge Blade - High Performance Polymer Construction - Affordable Replacement
    • Pressure Points: 8 Pressure Points
    • Wiping Length (mm): 505
  • The 31-Series KwikConnect wiper blade boasts reliable wiper performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Anco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1988 - Mazda RX-7 Front
Anco
1994 Mazda RX-7 Windshield Wiper Blade - Rear Anco

P311-3085C22    New

Qty:
$ 3.15
Anco Windshield Wiper Blade  Rear
  • ANCO Conventional 31 Series Wiper Blades 18
  • Original Blade Type
  • 31-Series
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adapters Included: Yes
    • Arm Construction Type: 9x3 Mm Hook, Pin Type .1875 Inch (4.76mm), Wide Straight End .280 Inch (7mm)
    • Classification: 31- Series Kwikconnect Blades
    • Connection: Bayonet: 7mm; J-hook: 9x3mm; Side Pin: 3/16
    • Construction Material: Rubber, Metal, Plastic
    • Feature 1: Affordable Conventional Blade Replacement
    • Feature 2: Duraklear Exclusive Rubber Compound Provides A Consistent Streak-free Wipe
    • Feature 3: Vented Bridge And High Performance Polymer Ensure Oe Fit And Function
    • Feature 4: Kwikconnect Installation System Provides Quick And Easy Wiper Blade Replacement
    • Feature 5: Consistent, Clear Wipe In Any Driving Environment
    • Feature 6: Available In 10" - 28" Lengths
    • Flat Windshield: No
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Conventional Bridge
    • Length: 18.0
    • Length (mm): 457
    • Manufacturer Label: 31-series
    • Market Type: Automotive
    • Overall Length (mm): 468
    • Part Description: Conventional Style Bridge Blade - High Performance Polymer Construction - Affordable Replacement
    • Pressure Points: 6 Pressure Points
    • Wiping Length (mm): 455
  • The 31-Series KwikConnect wiper blade boasts reliable wiper performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Anco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1994 - Mazda RX-7 Rear
Anco
1986 Mazda RX-7 Windshield Wiper Blade - Rear Anco

P311-38CAFDE    New

Qty:
$ 3.15
Anco Windshield Wiper Blade  Rear
  • ANCO Conventional 31 Series Wiper Blades 22
  • Original Blade Type
  • 31-Series
  • Product Attributes:
    • Adapters Included: Yes
    • Arm Construction Type: 9x3 Mm Hook, 9x4 Mm Hook, Pin Type .250 Inch (6.35mm)
    • Classification: 31- Series Kwikconnect Blades
    • Connection: J-hook: 9x3mm; J-hook: 9x4mm; Side Pin: 1/4
    • Construction Material: Rubber, Metal, Plastic
    • Feature 1: Affordable Conventional Blade Replacement
    • Feature 2: Duraklear Exclusive Rubber Compound Provides A Consistent Streak-free Wipe
    • Feature 3: Vented Bridge And High Performance Polymer Ensure Oe Fit And Function
    • Feature 4: Kwikconnect Installation System Provides Quick And Easy Wiper Blade Replacement
    • Feature 5: Consistent, Clear Wipe In Any Driving Environment
    • Feature 6: Available In 10" - 28" Lengths
    • Flat Windshield: No
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Conventional Bridge
    • Length: 22.0
    • Length (mm): 559
    • Manufacturer Label: 31-series
    • Market Type: Automotive
    • Overall Length (mm): 570
    • Part Description: Conventional Style Bridge Blade - High Performance Polymer Construction - Affordable Replacement
    • Pressure Points: 8 Pressure Points
    • Wiping Length (mm): 555
  • The 31-Series KwikConnect wiper blade boasts reliable wiper performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Anco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1986 - Mazda RX-7 Rear
Premium Guard
1980 Mazda RX-7 Engine Oil Filter 2 Cyl 1.1L Premium Guard

P311-1543FB2    New

Qty:
$ 1.80
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1980 - Mazda RX-7 R 1146 -
Premium Guard
1993 Mazda RX-7 Engine Oil Filter 2 Cyl 1.3L Premium Guard

P311-2208BBC    New

Qty:
$ 1.80
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Supersede: Replaces PO4610 once inventory is depleted
  • Pronto Standard Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block CC CID
1993 - Mazda RX-7 R 1308 -
Premium Vision
Qty:
$ 2.06
  • Attribute: Steel Frame Blade Size Inches: 18 Arm Type: Hook 9 X 3
  • Pronto - All Season
Brand: Premium Vision
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1994 - Mazda RX-7 Rear
Premium Vision
Qty:
$ 2.23
  • Attribute: Steel Frame Blade Size Inches: 20 Arm Type: Hook 9 X 3
  • Pronto - All Season
Brand: Premium Vision
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1990 - Mazda RX-7 Front Right
Premium Vision
Qty:
$ 2.23
  • Attribute: Steel Frame Blade Size Inches: 20 Arm Type: Hook 9 X 3
  • Pronto - All Season
Brand: Premium Vision
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1994 - Mazda RX-7 Front Left
Premium Vision
Qty:
$ 2.23
  • Attribute: Steel Frame Blade Size Inches: 22 Arm Type: Hook 9 X 3
  • Pronto - All Season
Brand: Premium Vision
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1989 - Mazda RX-7 Rear
Trico
1991 Mazda RX-7 Windshield Wiper Blade - Rear Trico

P311-32D7412    New

Qty:
$ 6.37
Trico Windshield Wiper Blade  Rear
  • Exact Fit
Brand: Trico
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Mazda RX-7 Rear

Showing 1 - 10 of 6,593 Products.


Latest Mazda Rx7 Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1978 mazda rx-7

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Kodan on 1978 mazda rx-7

to start it as im cranking it over i have to give it gas and
when im at a stop light the car takes so much time to get up to speed.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Have you done any repairs? Have you done any checks?

1988 mazda rx7 starter problems

Showing 7 out of 19 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From spaz on 1988 mazda rx7 starter problems

I own a 1988 mazda rx7 convertible with 86,000 mile on it. I recently replaced the master cylinder for my clutch and also my slave cylinder too. my problem is that after I replaced the items, the car would not start. I bled the slave cylinder and the clutch is working fine now, but now my starter is making a slow grinding noise and it is barely turn from the sound of it. I took it to my work Oreilly's auto parts and tested it on the machine four times, it passed every time. I brought it home and installed it, but the problem hasnt gone away.So I checked the battery and made sure it was fully charged, but it still making a slow grinding noise when I attempt to start and the positive terminal on my battery was starting to smoke while doing so. I drive this car every day and it runs great, please someone help me!! Im running out of ideas.Any help would be greatly appreciated. maybe a ground or something? Im lost.

Response From flownaksala

I have a 1988 RX-7 Turbo with 149K on it. One of the wiring harnesses went bad on it and I had a similar problem. It would cause the car to flood also because it wasn't getting enough spark.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

This thread is over 3 years old. Please start a new one of your own if you have a question.

Response From Discretesignals

Your problem is there staring you right in the face. The smoking battery terminal. You have a bad connection causing high resistance. Clean the battery terminal and post, then see how it works out.

Response From spaz

I just tried what you suggested and its still doing the same thing all I did was change the master & slave cylinder. I didnt even mess with the starter. why would it be acting up like this? Ill put new posts on it tonight and try it again.thanks for your help and if you can think of anything else,please let me know

Response From Hammer Time

Have the battery tested.

Response From Hammer Time

That's what a "conductance" battery test is supposed to tell you.

Response From spaz

had the battery tested and said it was good,brought it home and still the same thing! I think the battery moght be the problem cause, I kept checking the charge on it and it kept steadily droping. It might not be able to hold a charge, getting a new one. old one still under warranty, will let you know.

Response From Discretesignals

The smoking battery terminal is telling you that you have high resistance in that connection. You need to voltage drop the cables to confirm a poor connection or high resistance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If even in 1988 this is likely the thinner metal band cable end clamp(s) at battery I've found they don't age well nor tolerate batteries that can spit acid. Used to be able to get superior end splices but even recently couldn't find them with all the help from a dependable parts store I've dealt with for decades.

It's smoking or did - totally a problem spot. That can be tested but probably will take a new quality cable no matter how good a battery is. Testing one should include how well it can take a hard load (amps available) which a starter is is highly dependant on.

Why did this happen with unrelated work? Who knows? Stuff happens like that sometimes,

T

Response From nickwarner

With DS on this one. Voltage drop your power and ground. If you aren't sure what that is, I'll explain.

Place the red lead of your multimeter on the B+ terminal and the black on the starter end of the same cable. Have someone crank over the motor and watch the reading on the meter. It will show the difference between the two connections, which is how much voltage you have dropped. General rule is .1v per connection drop. You start seeing a .8 or better its a sure thing you have a bad cable. It has to be done under load. Do the same with the ground side.

Just to be the one to ask a dumb question, have you tried barring over the motor by hand yet to be sure nothing crazy happened and the motor locked up? As, Tom said, stuff happens like that sometimes. Murphy's Law has yet to be repealed.

Response From spaz

thanks for the explanation on how to do that voltage drop,I'll do that this weekend. I'm begining to suspect that it the starter again,so just to be ahead of the game I went ahead and ordered a new starter seeing as I am trying to get everything straight. everything else is new why not? willlet you all know the outcome. thanks for the help,its very much apprecaited

Response From nickwarner

Slow down my man. Don't throw parts at it. We don't do that or our customers would be at the door with a shotgun. You can diagnose this with a little testing and save a lot of grief. When I approach a problem like this I first check the battery and connections at it. If it tests properly I ensure the connections at the starter and the engine/body grounds are all clean and tight. If not luck then I VD the cables after first making sure I can bar the engine over with a breaker bar. If the engine is bad nothing electrical will help. Then I put an amp clamp on the cable for the startter and see if its drawing excessive voltage. If it cranks slow but is a power hog thats an obvious sign of a bad one. Once you install it you can't return it and are out the money. Diagnose this and be confident that you spent your money the right way.

Response From Hammer Time

You put a socket on the front crankshaft bolt and turn it with a ratchet.

Response From spaz

how exactly would one go about turning the motor by hand? I know it sounds stupid of me to ask but I dont want to do something wrong. Can you turn it like any other motor? I just put the starter in with new battery and all cables are as they should be, motor wont turn.I can hear the starter doing its job yet nothing. The motor was running perfect, would it just sieze up over night? I hope not.please let me know anything you can think.

Response From spaz

call me crazy, but now everything is as it was but now acting as if its flooded or isnt getting a spark. Getting plenty of gas. can smell it, fuses and wires? I think its not getting a spark.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Is the starter motor situation fixed yet? If now cranking at a normal crank speed then if fuel pressure is right do check for spark with a tester. Fuel odor is not helpful as that could be a leak so do tend to ruling that out ASAP,

T

Response From spaz

will do, thanks for the help. Ill let you know if it is the problem. very much appreciated.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just a thought: Is there a hood light that stayed on for the duration of fixing the master and slave cylinder? If so, it doesn't take long surprisingly for that to matter and an old battery could croak from that last nudge of being to low on charge,

T

1985 Mazda RX7 Windshield Fluid light + Poor pressure

Showing 3 out of 9 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 1985 Mazda RX7 Windshield Fluid light + Poor pressure

1985
Mazda
RX7
1.3?
60,000 miles

Hello again. We are getting out lovely mazda back on the road and running. It runs great with one exception. The windshield washer fluid light seems to come on. I have filled the reservoir to the top, and it seems to drain and become empty. There is still a small amount of fluid in the tank and the washer is able to be used. However, when it is used the fluid is very very weak, and wont hardly even reach the windshield. Am I looking at having to replace the windshield washer pump and resavoir? Anyadvice about how best to do this would be great. Thanks guys.

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

How should I find my leak? Any special procedures besides filling it and looking to see whats wet?

Response From Sidom

Find your leak & that could solve your problem. If a hose is split it will leak fluid & lose pressure. Also the nozzels @ the windshield can become clogged. You can clean out the ends with a pin....

Response From Guest

I actually used a pin to reposition the nozzels to point higher so the stream would arc and actually hit the windshield

Response From Sidom

I'm going off memory right now (no access to my datebase) but I believe the washer pump is in the reservoir. You said you reservoir has a leak. If a hose coming off the pump is split that would account for your leak & no pressure. I would find the leak 1st & go from there.

On a side note, once the pressure problem is fixed, you'll probably have to readjust your nozzels

Response From Sidom

Yea that's it. Just see where it's leaking from.... You may have to lift the tank but becareful due to the hoses & 2 wires going to it. Some are bolted down with a bracket, some just slide onto a bracket......

Response From Guest

Hey guys, thanks again. I fixed the problem!!!! I filled the resivoir and did not see any leaks nearby. Then i felt my foot getting wet, it waxs just streaming out the bottom of the car. I followed the tubing from the resivoir, had to take a panel off and found the the Y splitter from the main hose to the nozzels was pretty much completly disolved. After calling around I found the Y splitter for the 5/32 tubing at advance auto parts. I ended up getting new hose at auto zone and replaced the whole system. Overall the project cost around $10!!!! When I tried washing the windows, the spray blew clear over the car :) After repositioning the head with a needle, everything works great and no more error light :) Fun project, thanks guys.

Response From Sidom

Yes good job on trackin it down Dab..... I don't have the patience either Loren....lol
I see you do the same thing with reservoir that I do (yea I used spell check)
My Inspections usually look like... resivoir.... reservor.... TANK!!

Man for the life of me I can't remember that word!!!!

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Sidom; Gold star to you! Just wish I could figure out how to do it. Good job. Sure appreciate your help.

No Power Anywhere.

Showing 2 out of 15 Posts | Show 13 Hidden Posts
Question From ClutchKick on No Power Anywhere.

I have a 1981 Mazda Rx7 1.1L 12A Rotary and it was working fine but now I have zero power, not even accessory lights. The battery is fine. The fusible link is fine. I can hotwire the starter from underneath the car, it spins. I'm extremely confused as to what else could cause it to have zero power? Could it be the CPU or the ignition?

Response From ClutchKick

I got a multimeter and, like I said, the fusible link and battery are fine but I did notice that while the car is on (still no accessory lights or anything) the fuel pump is running, even though nothing else is electronically working. Is my fuel pump relay fried? Could a relay that's been fried make a fuel pump pump indefinitely and could it cut off the rest of the power to the dash?

Response From Discretesignals

Unplug the electrical connector from the air flow meter. Does the fuel pump stop running with the ignition on?

Response From ClutchKick

Well I get dim accessory lights and the starter turns over really slowly, I think I have bad connections so I'm going to go get new cables, I'll try that air flow meter when it stops raining

Response From ClutchKick

Not IN the fusible link, the wire from the battery that attaches to the fusible link, if you rub the metal together small sparks, as in electricity is going between the link and the fuse.

Response From nickwarner

Do you have power at the ignition switch? Have you verified that the cable connections at all points of the power and ground cables are shiny clean and tight?

Response From ClutchKick

Yeah everything's nice and clean, the hardest part of this is I don't have a voltmeter but I can visually see tiny sparks from the fusible link going to the battery fuse so I know that it is fine. How do I check if the ignition is getting it's power?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Time go get a multi-meter that does both volts and ohms, and a 12v test light. Suggest the LED one now. Prices vary wildly and pretty much get what you pay for for these. WallyWorld has them or others like that - all seem to be low end but I own some for trunk of car tool box,

T

Response From nickwarner

You can't diagnose an electrical system without electrical tools. As Tom pointed out, they're cheap to get a multimeter and a LED test lamp. What do you mean by being able to see sparks in a fusible link? That doesn't sound good at all.

Response From Hammer Time

if you rub the metal together small sparks, as in electricity is going between the link and the fuse.

If you really think you're going to find problems that way, you're in for some real headaches.

Response From ClutchKick

Hahahah no, I'm just waiting for the voltmeter, my friend is bringing one over tomorrow I was just saying there is electricity going into the battery fuse.

Response From Hammer Time

I was just saying there is electricity going into the battery fuse.

And how would you conclude that?

Response From ClutchKick



I was just saying there is electricity going into the battery fuse.

And how would you conclude that?

Electricity is flowing from the battery through the fusible link, into the battery fuse.

Response From nickwarner

But that doesn't tell us if the fusible link is intact, just that the circuit isn't completely open. You could very well only be getting a tiny amount of power through a mostly opened fusible link which a voltage drop test will show fast and without the danger to electrical components of arcing them. Wait for the meter.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

If you rub them fast enough, it should start a fire.