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Showing 1 - 10 of 3,028 Products.

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Full
1995 Mazda RX-7 Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-18EC806    W0133-2058166  New

Qty:
$16.72
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Mazda RX-7
Anco
1991 Mazda RX-7 Windshield Wiper Blade - Rear Anco - 31-Series

P311-38CAFDE    31-22  New

DL-22 , 38-220 , 22-59 , 60-2387 , SBV221 , 22-54 , 4722 , 39-221 , WW-2201 , 60-022-9 , 23-51 , 22-1 , 359-230 , 8-122 , 22-51 , 60-022-4 , 500-22 , 22-4 , 40322 , 3722 , 8-422 , 30-221 , 39-230 , WCB22 , 350-221 , 60-023-1 , 40722A , 358-220 , 60-022-1 , WW-2204 , 22-9 , 23-1 , RX30122

Qty:
$6.00
Anco Windshield Wiper Blade  Rear
  • ANCO Conventional 31 Series Wiper Blades 22
  • Original Blade Type
  • 31-Series
  • Product Attributes:
    • Blade Material: Duraklear - Natural Rubber
    • Blade Type: Conventional/bridge
    • Feature 1: Available In 10"-28" Lengths
    • Feature 2: Affordable Conventional Blade Replacement
    • Feature 3: Duraklear Exclusive Rubber Compound Provides A Consistent Streak-free Wipe
    • Feature 4: Vented Bridge And High Performance Polymer Ensure Oe Fit And Function
    • Feature 5: Kwikconnect Installation System Provides Quick And Easy Wiper Blade Replacement
    • Feature 6: Consistent, Clear Wipe In Any Driving Environment
    • Frame Color: Black
    • Frame Material: Metal; Plastic
    • Length:
      • 22.000
      • 560.0
    • Wiper Blade Connection Type: J-hook: 9x3mm, 9x4mm; Classic Side-pin: 1/4"
  • The 31-Series KwikConnect wiper blade boasts reliable wiper performance.
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Anco
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Mazda RX-7 Rear
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$3.93
GBR Fuel Injection Fuel Injector Seal Kit
  • Services one injector, includes top & bottom seals.
  • Fuel Injector Seal Kit
  • Features:
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 4
    • Most jobs typically require 4 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Aspiration Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Mazda RX-7 Turbocharged R 2 Cyl 1.3L - 1308
GBR Fuel Injection
Qty:
$3.93
GBR Fuel Injection Fuel Injector Seal Kit
  • Services one injector, includes top & bottom seals.
  • Fuel Injector Seal Kit
  • Features:
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: GBR Fuel Injection
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1984 - Mazda RX-7 R 2 Cyl 1.3L - 1308
Premium Guard
Qty:
$3.58
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Thread Pitch M20x1.5 Outside Diameter 3.15 Height 2.95" Spin-On Filter
  • Standard Life Oil Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1989 - Mazda RX-7 R 2 Cyl 1.3L - 1308
Premium Guard
Qty:
$3.48
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Thread Pitch M20x1.5 Outside Diameter 2.69" Height 2.93" Spin-On Filter
  • Standard Life Oil Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Mazda RX-7 R 2 Cyl 1.3L - 1308
Premium Vision
1991 Mazda RX-7 Windshield Wiper Blade - Rear Premium Vision - Pronto Standard - All Seasons

P311-1A9B8B1    PR-22  New

XV22

Qty:
$3.97
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Rear
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Pronto Standard - All Seasons
  • 22
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1991 - Mazda RX-7 Rear
Premium Vision
1990 Mazda RX-7 Windshield Wiper Blade - Rear Premium Vision - Conventional Wiper Blade

P311-1A9B8B1    PR-22  New

XV22

Qty:
$3.97
Premium Vision Windshield Wiper Blade  Rear
  • Windshield Wiper Blade
  • Hook 9 X 3
  • Conventional Wiper Blade
  • 22
Brand: Premium Vision
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1990 - Mazda RX-7 Rear
Full
1995 Mazda RX-7 Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-18EC806    W0133-2058166  New

Qty:
$16.72
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Spin-On
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Mazda RX-7
Ishino Stone
1995 Mazda RX-7 Engine Oil Drain Plug Gasket Ishino Stone - Aluminum

P311-5682218    W0133-1644373  New

Qty:
$3.24
Ishino Stone Engine Oil Drain Plug Gasket
  • Aluminum
Brand: Ishino Stone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
1995 - Mazda RX-7

Showing 1 - 10 of 3,028 Products.


Latest Mazda Rx7 Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1978 mazda rx-7

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Kodan on 1978 mazda rx-7

to start it as im cranking it over i have to give it gas and
when im at a stop light the car takes so much time to get up to speed.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Have you done any repairs? Have you done any checks?

1988 mazda rx7 starter problems

Showing 9 out of 19 Posts | Show 10 Hidden Posts
Question From spaz on 1988 mazda rx7 starter problems

I own a 1988 mazda rx7 convertible with 86,000 mile on it. I recently replaced the master cylinder for my clutch and also my slave cylinder too. my problem is that after I replaced the items, the car would not start. I bled the slave cylinder and the clutch is working fine now, but now my starter is making a slow grinding noise and it is barely turn from the sound of it. I took it to my work Oreilly's auto parts and tested it on the machine four times, it passed every time. I brought it home and installed it, but the problem hasnt gone away.So I checked the battery and made sure it was fully charged, but it still making a slow grinding noise when I attempt to start and the positive terminal on my battery was starting to smoke while doing so. I drive this car every day and it runs great, please someone help me!! Im running out of ideas.Any help would be greatly appreciated. maybe a ground or something? Im lost.

Response From flownaksala

I have a 1988 RX-7 Turbo with 149K on it. One of the wiring harnesses went bad on it and I had a similar problem. It would cause the car to flood also because it wasn't getting enough spark.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

This thread is over 3 years old. Please start a new one of your own if you have a question.

Response From Discretesignals

Your problem is there staring you right in the face. The smoking battery terminal. You have a bad connection causing high resistance. Clean the battery terminal and post, then see how it works out.

Response From spaz

I just tried what you suggested and its still doing the same thing all I did was change the master & slave cylinder. I didnt even mess with the starter. why would it be acting up like this? Ill put new posts on it tonight and try it again.thanks for your help and if you can think of anything else,please let me know

Response From Hammer Time

Have the battery tested.

Response From spaz

had the battery tested and said it was good,brought it home and still the same thing! I think the battery moght be the problem cause, I kept checking the charge on it and it kept steadily droping. It might not be able to hold a charge, getting a new one. old one still under warranty, will let you know.

Response From Hammer Time

That's what a "conductance" battery test is supposed to tell you.

Response From Discretesignals

The smoking battery terminal is telling you that you have high resistance in that connection. You need to voltage drop the cables to confirm a poor connection or high resistance.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

If even in 1988 this is likely the thinner metal band cable end clamp(s) at battery I've found they don't age well nor tolerate batteries that can spit acid. Used to be able to get superior end splices but even recently couldn't find them with all the help from a dependable parts store I've dealt with for decades.

It's smoking or did - totally a problem spot. That can be tested but probably will take a new quality cable no matter how good a battery is. Testing one should include how well it can take a hard load (amps available) which a starter is is highly dependant on.

Why did this happen with unrelated work? Who knows? Stuff happens like that sometimes,

T

Response From nickwarner

With DS on this one. Voltage drop your power and ground. If you aren't sure what that is, I'll explain.

Place the red lead of your multimeter on the B+ terminal and the black on the starter end of the same cable. Have someone crank over the motor and watch the reading on the meter. It will show the difference between the two connections, which is how much voltage you have dropped. General rule is .1v per connection drop. You start seeing a .8 or better its a sure thing you have a bad cable. It has to be done under load. Do the same with the ground side.

Just to be the one to ask a dumb question, have you tried barring over the motor by hand yet to be sure nothing crazy happened and the motor locked up? As, Tom said, stuff happens like that sometimes. Murphy's Law has yet to be repealed.

Response From spaz

thanks for the explanation on how to do that voltage drop,I'll do that this weekend. I'm begining to suspect that it the starter again,so just to be ahead of the game I went ahead and ordered a new starter seeing as I am trying to get everything straight. everything else is new why not? willlet you all know the outcome. thanks for the help,its very much apprecaited

Response From nickwarner

Slow down my man. Don't throw parts at it. We don't do that or our customers would be at the door with a shotgun. You can diagnose this with a little testing and save a lot of grief. When I approach a problem like this I first check the battery and connections at it. If it tests properly I ensure the connections at the starter and the engine/body grounds are all clean and tight. If not luck then I VD the cables after first making sure I can bar the engine over with a breaker bar. If the engine is bad nothing electrical will help. Then I put an amp clamp on the cable for the startter and see if its drawing excessive voltage. If it cranks slow but is a power hog thats an obvious sign of a bad one. Once you install it you can't return it and are out the money. Diagnose this and be confident that you spent your money the right way.

Response From spaz

how exactly would one go about turning the motor by hand? I know it sounds stupid of me to ask but I dont want to do something wrong. Can you turn it like any other motor? I just put the starter in with new battery and all cables are as they should be, motor wont turn.I can hear the starter doing its job yet nothing. The motor was running perfect, would it just sieze up over night? I hope not.please let me know anything you can think.

Response From Hammer Time

You put a socket on the front crankshaft bolt and turn it with a ratchet.

Response From spaz

call me crazy, but now everything is as it was but now acting as if its flooded or isnt getting a spark. Getting plenty of gas. can smell it, fuses and wires? I think its not getting a spark.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Is the starter motor situation fixed yet? If now cranking at a normal crank speed then if fuel pressure is right do check for spark with a tester. Fuel odor is not helpful as that could be a leak so do tend to ruling that out ASAP,

T

Response From spaz

will do, thanks for the help. Ill let you know if it is the problem. very much appreciated.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just a thought: Is there a hood light that stayed on for the duration of fixing the master and slave cylinder? If so, it doesn't take long surprisingly for that to matter and an old battery could croak from that last nudge of being to low on charge,

T

1985 Mazda RX-7 Wont Start

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 1985 Mazda RX-7 Wont Start

1985
Mazda
RX-7
(engine size unknown, it is a Rotary Engine)
60,000 miles

Ok here we go. We have had this car from 1985 till now, usually kept it safe in the garage and would start it every so often to keep it running. With a need for three cars we decided to get it up and useable again. We took it to the local Mazda dealer and had him do a good once over and he said everything is fine. We have been driving it with no problems for about 2 weeks now. No funky noises or anything. This morning I went to start it and it started fine. (It takes a while to really start and we have to rev the engine for about 30 sec or so, but no real problems.) This morning it started fine. I put the clutch down, shifted into first and released the hand brake with my foot still on the break. I took my foot off the break and stated on the accelerator to begin to shift it into gear. The car jolted a little as if I was releasing the clutch a little too fast, and turned off compleatly. Now when we turn the key no lights or anything turn on, and not even clicky noices are heard, nothing. What do you guys think is the issue. I will check back often and answer any questions. Thanks.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Check the battery connections. Although the make look 'fine' on the outside, you could have a poor connection between the battery posts and the terminals. Also, check any leads that come off of the terminals. Corrosion is a common problem.

Response From Guest

I will try that thanks. I just took the battery out of the car to test it with a battery tester we have, and it says its full. Like you said The connections might be coroded, they look a little gunky. Should I use sand paper? Or what should I use?

Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

You can steal some of your wife's baking soda, dampen the cables and terminals, then sprinkle the baking soda onto them. Be careful not to get any into the cells of the battery, though. May take several applications. You can buy a battery terminal cleaner at any parts store...Very inexpensive, and nice to have around. Emery cloth on the battery posts works very well. A knife blade on the inside of the battery terminals works, just be careful not to take too much 'meat' off of the terminals....lightly scraping, only.
/

Response From Guest

I guess we had had this problem before and this was in fact the fix. We now keep a wrench in the car to tighten the nuts and scrape if need be. Thanks for the help. Everything works great.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Dabman; Thanks for taking the time to reply. Glad to hear everything worked out. Have a great weekend.