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Best Selling Genuine Toyota Mass Air Flow Sensors

  • We Stock the following top leading brands, including Cardone, Denso
  • Constantly Updated Inventory of Toyota Replacement Mass Air Flow Sensor Parts

We stock Mass Air Flow Sensor parts for most Toyota models, including 4Runner, Avalon, Camry, Celica, Corolla, Cressida, Echo, FJ Cruiser, Highlander, Land Cruiser, MR2, MR2 Spyder, Matrix, Previa, Prius, RAV4, Sequoia, Sienna, Solara, Supra, T100, Tacoma, Tundra, Venza, Yaris.


Cardone
2007 Toyota 4Runner Mass Air Flow Sensor 6 Cyl 4.0L Cardone - Reman. Mass Air Flow Sensor

P311-5810694    74-50009  Remanufactured

ZL0113215 , 222040D030 , 30713512 , 2220422010 , 88969111 , 9202199 , 24508238 , 2220407010 , 222040C020 , 88969106 , 2220421010 , 92021990 , 222040F010 , 8658471 , 307135120 , C2S2670 , L32113215 , ZL0113215R00 , PHF000140 , 86584710

Qty:
$29.70 58.50
Cardone Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • Remanufactured Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • Reman. Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Malfunctioning Maf/vane Airflow Sensor Can Cause Any One Or More Of The Following Symptoms: Hesitation, Stalling, Poor Fuel Economy Or Poor Engine Performance.
      • How Can A Malfunctioning Maf/vane Airflow Sensor Affect My Vehicles’ Operation?
      • How Can I Determine If The Maf/vane Airflow Sensor Is Bad?
      • Over-voltage Sources From Relays, Shorted Wiring, Cracked Printed Circuit Boards, Moisture Entering The Unit Through Split Air Ducts, Electrical Connections And Wiring, Air Intake Obstructions Or Gas/oil Fumes From The Engine Can Cause Failure. Check Air
      • The Most Common Causes Are: Cracked Circuit Boards, Burnt Sensing Elements, Poor Solder Joints, Deteriorated Conformal Coating, Or Loose Printed Circuit Board Components.
      • The Most Common Causes Are: Worn Vane Assembly, Cracked Housing, Or Cracked Printed Circuit Board. These Conditions Require Unit Replacement.
      • Visually Inspect The Sensor Element In The Maf For Damage Or For A Burnt Smell. In The Vane Airflow Sensor, Inspect The Door For Binding Or For A Burnt Smell. Unit. Start The Engine And Tap Lightly On The Unit. If Tapping Causes An Engine Malfunction Or I
      • What Are The Most Common Causes Of Maf/vane Airflow Sensor Problems?
      • What Goes Bad In Maf Sensors?
      • What Goes Bad In Vane Airflow Type Units?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Re-solder Of Critical Components Ensures Superior Electrical Connections, No Intermittent Failures And Longer Product Life.
      • All Modules Are 100% Tested With Automated Computer Test Equipment To Ensure Full Functionality And Reliability
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit
      • Components Are Rated To Handle Demanding Temperature Variations For Optimum Reliability In Every Environment.
      • On-car Vehicle Validation Routines Ensure That Modules Meet All Form, Fit, Durability And Performance Requirements.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%
      • Our Sensors Precisely Track O.e. Output Curves And Maintain Spec Tolerances To Ensure Accurate Feedback To The Vehicle’s Engine Control Management System.
  • CARDONE® Remanufactured Mass Air Flow Sensors (MAFS) precisely track O.E. output curves and maintain specific tolerances to ensure accurate scan tool readings for proper operation. 100% re-soldering of critical components ensures superior electrical connections, eliminates intermittent failures and lengthens product life. With CARDONE Mass Air Flow Sensors (MAFS), you can expect smooth vehicle performance.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Toyota 4Runner V 6 Cyl 4.0L 241 3956
Cardone
1998 Toyota 4Runner Mass Air Flow Sensor 6 Cyl 3.4L Cardone - Reman. Mass Air Flow Sensor

P311-5810694    74-50009  Remanufactured

ZL0113215 , 222040D030 , 30713512 , 2220422010 , 88969111 , 9202199 , 24508238 , 2220407010 , 222040C020 , 88969106 , 2220421010 , 92021990 , 222040F010 , 8658471 , 307135120 , C2S2670 , L32113215 , ZL0113215R00 , PHF000140 , 86584710

Qty:
$29.70 58.50
Cardone Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • Remanufactured Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • From 07/1998
  • Reman. Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • Product Attributes:
    • FAQs:
      • A Malfunctioning Maf/vane Airflow Sensor Can Cause Any One Or More Of The Following Symptoms: Hesitation, Stalling, Poor Fuel Economy Or Poor Engine Performance.
      • How Can A Malfunctioning Maf/vane Airflow Sensor Affect My Vehicles’ Operation?
      • How Can I Determine If The Maf/vane Airflow Sensor Is Bad?
      • Over-voltage Sources From Relays, Shorted Wiring, Cracked Printed Circuit Boards, Moisture Entering The Unit Through Split Air Ducts, Electrical Connections And Wiring, Air Intake Obstructions Or Gas/oil Fumes From The Engine Can Cause Failure. Check Air
      • The Most Common Causes Are: Cracked Circuit Boards, Burnt Sensing Elements, Poor Solder Joints, Deteriorated Conformal Coating, Or Loose Printed Circuit Board Components.
      • The Most Common Causes Are: Worn Vane Assembly, Cracked Housing, Or Cracked Printed Circuit Board. These Conditions Require Unit Replacement.
      • Visually Inspect The Sensor Element In The Maf For Damage Or For A Burnt Smell. In The Vane Airflow Sensor, Inspect The Door For Binding Or For A Burnt Smell. Unit. Start The Engine And Tap Lightly On The Unit. If Tapping Causes An Engine Malfunction Or I
      • What Are The Most Common Causes Of Maf/vane Airflow Sensor Problems?
      • What Goes Bad In Maf Sensors?
      • What Goes Bad In Vane Airflow Type Units?
    • Features and Benefits:
      • 100% Re-solder Of Critical Components Ensures Superior Electrical Connections, No Intermittent Failures And Longer Product Life.
      • All Modules Are 100% Tested With Automated Computer Test Equipment To Ensure Full Functionality And Reliability
      • As A Remanufactured Original Equipment Part, This Unit Guarantees A Perfect Vehicle Fit
      • Components Are Rated To Handle Demanding Temperature Variations For Optimum Reliability In Every Environment.
      • On-car Vehicle Validation Routines Ensure That Modules Meet All Form, Fit, Durability And Performance Requirements.
      • Our Remanufacturing Process Is Earth-friendly, As It Reduces The Energy And Raw Material Needed To Make A New Part By 80%
      • Our Sensors Precisely Track O.e. Output Curves And Maintain Spec Tolerances To Ensure Accurate Feedback To The Vehicle’s Engine Control Management System.
  • CARDONE® Remanufactured Mass Air Flow Sensors (MAFS) precisely track O.E. output curves and maintain specific tolerances to ensure accurate scan tool readings for proper operation. 100% re-soldering of critical components ensures superior electrical connections, eliminates intermittent failures and lengthens product life. With CARDONE Mass Air Flow Sensors (MAFS), you can expect smooth vehicle performance.
Brand: Cardone
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Toyota 4Runner V 6 Cyl 3.4L - 3378
Denso
2003 Toyota 4Runner Mass Air Flow Sensor 6 Cyl 4.0L Denso

P311-07DDF6E    W0133-1818563  New

Qty:
145.89
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
  • W/o Housing
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2003 - Toyota 4Runner V 6 Cyl 4.0L 241 3956
Denso
2005 Toyota Prius Mass Air Flow Sensor Denso

P311-07DDF6E    W0133-1818563  New

Qty:
145.89
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2005 - Toyota Prius
Denso
2009 Toyota FJ Cruiser Mass Air Flow Sensor Denso

P311-07DDF6E    W0133-1818563  New

Qty:
145.89
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
  • ; Production: -07/31/2009
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2009 - Toyota FJ Cruiser To:07-31-09
Denso
2005 Toyota Tacoma Mass Air Flow Sensor 6 Cyl 4.0L Denso

P311-07DDF6E    W0133-1818563  New

Qty:
145.89
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
  • ; Production: 09/01/2004-
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2005 - Toyota Tacoma V 6 Cyl 4.0L 241 3956 Fr:09-01-04
Denso
2002 Toyota Camry Mass Air Flow Sensor 6 Cyl 3.0L Denso

P311-07DDF6E    W0133-1818563  New

Qty:
145.89
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
  • ; Production: 07/01/2001-
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2002 - Toyota Camry V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2995 Fr:07-01-01
Denso
2006 Toyota Camry Mass Air Flow Sensor 6 Cyl 3.0L Denso

P311-07DDF6E    W0133-1818563  New

Qty:
145.89
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
  • ; Production: -01/31/2006, NORTH AMERCIAN MADE MODELS

    w/o Housing
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2006 - Toyota Camry V 6 Cyl 3.0L - 2995 To:01-31-06
Denso
2007 Toyota Matrix Mass Air Flow Sensor Denso

P311-07DDF6E    W0133-1818563  New

Qty:
145.89
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
  • ; w/o Housing - Meter/sensor only
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Toyota Matrix
Denso
2000 Toyota Echo Mass Air Flow Sensor Denso

P311-07DDF6E    W0133-1818563  New

Qty:
145.89
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
  • ; Production: 08/01/1999-
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2000 - Toyota Echo Fr:08-01-99
Denso
2001 Toyota RAV4 Mass Air Flow Sensor Denso

P311-07DDF6E    W0133-1818563  New

Qty:
145.89
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
  • ; Production: 08/01/2000-, w/o Housing - Meter/sensor only
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2001 - Toyota RAV4 Fr:08-01-00
Denso
2005 Toyota Tundra Mass Air Flow Sensor 6 Cyl 4.0L Denso

P311-07DDF6E    W0133-1818563  New

Qty:
145.89
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
  • ; Production: 08/01/2004-, w/o Housing - Meter/sensor only
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2005 - Toyota Tundra V 6 Cyl 4.0L 241 3956 Fr:08-01-04
Denso
2007 Toyota Tundra Mass Air Flow Sensor 6 Cyl 4.0L Denso

P311-07DDF6E    W0133-1818563  New

Qty:
145.89
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
  • ; Production: 11/01/2006-, w/o Housing - Meter/sensor only
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2007 - Toyota Tundra V 6 Cyl 4.0L 241 3956 Fr:11-01-06
Denso
2004 Toyota Sienna Mass Air Flow Sensor Denso

P311-07DDF6E    W0133-1818563  New

Qty:
145.89
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
  • ; Production: 01/01/2003-, w/o Housing - Meter/sensor only
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2004 - Toyota Sienna Fr:01-01-03
Denso
2010 Toyota Camry Mass Air Flow Sensor Denso

P311-3D7BD5E    W0133-1786065  New

Qty:
175.94
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Toyota Camry
Denso
2007 Toyota Camry Mass Air Flow Sensor Denso

P311-3D7BD5E    W0133-1786065  New

Qty:
175.94
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
  • ; Production: 01/01/2006-, JAPAN MADE MODELS
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2007 - Toyota Camry Fr:01-01-06
Denso
2007 Toyota Camry Mass Air Flow Sensor Denso

P311-3D7BD5E    W0133-1786065  New

Qty:
175.94
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
  • ; Production: 02/01/2006-, NORTH AMERICAN MADE MODELS
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2007 - Toyota Camry Fr:02-01-06
Denso
2008 Toyota Highlander Mass Air Flow Sensor 6 Cyl 3.5L Denso

P311-3D7BD5E    W0133-1786065  New

Qty:
175.94
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
  • ; Production: 05/01/2007-
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2008 - Toyota Highlander V 6 Cyl 3.5L - 3456 Fr:05-01-07
Denso
2010 Toyota Sienna Mass Air Flow Sensor Denso

P311-3D7BD5E    W0133-1786065  New

Qty:
175.94
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
  • ; Production: -12/31/2009
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Prod. Date Range
2010 - Toyota Sienna To:12-31-09
Denso
2009 Toyota Highlander Mass Air Flow Sensor 4 Cyl 2.7L Denso

P311-3D7BD5E    W0133-1786065  New

Qty:
175.94
Denso Mass Air Flow Sensor
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • First Time Fit
  • ; Production: 11/01/2008-
Brand: Denso
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC Prod. Date Range
2009 - Toyota Highlander L 4 Cyl 2.7L 163 2672 Fr:11-01-08

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1990 Toyota 4x4 3.0 Pick Up starts up and dies

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From hunterstoy on 1990 Toyota 4x4 3.0 Pick Up starts up and dies

1990 Toyota 4x4 3.0 Pick Up starts up and runs for a couple of seconds and dies. I just changed timing belt, oil pump, water pump, distributor, rotor, coil, plugs and wires. I did all of this because the timing belt broke on it and decided while I was this far into it might as well put new parts back on high mileage truck. After completing these changes truck started just fine decided to clean Mass Air Flow Sensor took it off and it looked clean as whistle so reinstalled it then my trouble began. Checked codes by jumping dia box with paper clip and no codes. Does anyone have any ideas

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

You should start by checking fuel pressure. If it is good, try unplugging the MAF sensor. If the engine runs ok, plug it in. If the engine dies, faulty MAF sensor.

Steve

2002 Celica - CEL - P0171 LEAN Condition

Showing 2 out of 19 Posts | Show 17 Hidden Posts
Question From glyph on 2002 Celica - CEL - P0171 LEAN Condition

I have a CEL on with code P0171. When it is reset at auto place, usually stays that way when I drive home, but next morning it will be on again.

It has been on and off for years. It used to stay off for months when reset.

So far mechanic tried to clean MAS. I got an aftermarket MAS and replaced it and the light still came on. (Though mechanic said he has seen genuine toyota fix the issue).

Mechanic mentioned it could be vacuum leak as well.

Car drives fine. Only issue I ever have is in winter if I drive without letting it warm up some then sometimes at stop lights it will sputter (car shakes some) or even stall. Raising idle a bit helped that... not sure if thats related...)

Anyway - I want to troubleshoot this as efficiently as possible. I am not really car saavy, but replacing the MAS was certainly quite easy. Anything I can do myself like that would be great to know. Also curious what people think is the best way to go about this trial and error process to avoid spending tons of money.

Thanks in advance!



2002 Toyota Celica
(Regular - non-GT)
130K miles

Response From Hammer Time

Also curious what people think is the best way to go about this trial and error process to avoid spending tons of money.

If you want to avoid wasting money, then have it professionally diagnosed.

Response From glyph

The shop basically told me it is trial and error.... I am trying to avoid some of the cost of that... for instance replacing a MAS myself.... takes 5 minutes, anyone can do it, but the show would have charged me like $60 for it.

And I am curious about others opinions. Do you agree that just because and aftermarket MAS did not fix the issue that it could still very well be the MAS and I need to try the genuine one to really rule that out?

What would people here check first? Replace the MAS? Vacuum leaks? etc

Thanks in advance!

Response From Hammer Time

{quote]The shop basically told me it is trial and error....

Then you have the wrong shop. That is a ridiculous answer. Any competent driveabilty tech can positively diagnose this through testing.

Response From glyph Top Rated Answer

I will try another shop and see what they say... this shop (the first one I brought it to) is rated REALLY well on Yelp. Lots of reviews from seasoned reviewers all saying they are very honest.



Here was the last exchange... (After I replaced MAS myself with aftermarket and CEL came back on)
Me

engine light came back on... I need to figure out if the mass air flow sensor I got was toyota or aftermarket... and I guess try a toyota one if it was aftermarket.

The tech said the code (P0171) could be a number of things though... I think he said Mass air flow sensor would probably be the first thing to try... though he would make sure it was toyota.

To confirm - there is no cheaper way to figure out what is wrong that buying and replacing the parts... is that right?

Their response
Unfortunately trial & error is the best way to approach this
particular check engine light code (P0171 lean condition). The flow chart
for checking things is 20 pages long and gives many false positives.
Vacuum leaks are the most likely cause with the air flow meter a close
second.

So - to confirm - after seeing all the context you still believe I should try another shop?

Thanks!

Response From Hammer Time

Being honest and being proficient in engine performance diagnosis are 2 entirely different things.

A`good tech should have no trouble at all finding the source of the problem and confirming it.

Response From glyph

Thanks! So to confirm basically I want to find a shop that will diagnose the problem and tell me for sure what I need to do...

Another shop offered to do an engine diagnostic for like $70 or so. This was earlier... so I have not confirmed yet if they are saying they will definitely find the issue or not... Does that all sound about right though?

Thanks again!

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, that's about right as long as they know what they are doing.

Response From glyph

Sorry to seam so doubtful but I just want to double check. Are you personally very familiar with the P0171 code in Toyota Celica's or are you just speaking generally when you say a shop should be able to determine the cause of any particular code?

I mentioned there were reviews calling the shop honest... you said honesty and competence are two different things, but the reviews also call them competent. I have actually never seen any car shop rated so highly on yelp. 30 vetted reviews, and a solid 5 star rating.

The other shop I might take it to, that says they can definitely find the issue, has 4 reviews and 4.5 stars... And what happens if they say they are sure it is one part, and that ends up not fixing it... I plan to ask if they would give my money back but I doubt it.

The guy from the original shop seems like he has been around for a while and had lots of experience with this specific code. And when I showed him what you said, his response was....

My feelings won't be hurt if you want to take your car to "any
competent driveability tech" and pay for the diagnosis. It is indeed
possible that it will be something simple revealed by following the flow
chart, but I doubt it. Feel free to stop by and I will print out a copy of
the flow chart for that P0171 code.


So before I decide what to do I just want to know if you are speaking very specifically about the P0171 code in celica's or if you are speaking generally that a tech should be able to diagnose any problem code without trial and error.

Thanks in advance!

Response From Hammer Time

I am a driveabilty tech certified in both engine performance and advanced engine performance. I have resolved a PO171 on many different vehicles and there are any number of things that can make an engine run lean. Any good diagnostic tech will know the things to look for and have the equipment to do it with. They will also know how to recognize when they have resolved it through reading the computer's adaptive strategies.

Response From glyph

So what is the bottom line? You still feel the original shop is not the one I should go with?

It does not seem like the guy does not know the "things to look for". He just seems to think it tends not to be black and white..

Response From Hammer Time

OK, I've run out of ways to explain it..........

Response From glyph

So I took it to the other shop. This is what they are recommending...

replace intake manifold gasket
replace valve gasket
fuel injection cleaning
replace serpentine belt (cracked)
replace air filters
replace spark plugs (says he can't tell for sure if they are worn... but might as well replace while in there.... I am at 140k and not sure if they were replaced at any point (120k recommended)

quoting something in the $800's.

Does the price seem reasonable for the work? And does the work seem reasonable? i.e., Do you think the fuel injection cleaning, and air filters really need replacing. (I have been told that shops often try to oversell fluid cleaning and replacements to make extra $)

It might be worth noting that I am likely to sell/trade this car in, in the next 6 months. Not sure if its better to put the work into it (i.e. could get more for it) or if its better not to.

Thanks in advance!

Response From Hammer Time

What kind of shop is this? Chain store type?

Response From glyph

Precision tune

Response From Hammer Time

OH, God no...........

You need to find a competent independent shop.

Response From glyph

Just so I am clear... what all do you feel is the issue?

do you feel they might not be honest (or competent) about even the main issue (which seems to be the intake manifold gasket and the valve gasket)...

and/or

that they are just overcharging for the work

and/or

the extranious stuff probably is not needed (serpentine belt, fuel injection cleaning, air filter changing, spark plugs)

I guess what I am getting at here is if I just have them do the bare minimum am I still likely to be bad off? (i.e. if they just replace the gaskets do you think I could get that done for !100's less somewhere else?

If I can just get them to do the essential stuff, even if it costs $50-$100 more at this point, I might rather just have them do it, (so I can get my inspection and reg.) then I can worry about finding another good shop to see if the other stuff really needs to be done.

But if you think I shouldn't even trust them to do that I will go elsewhere...

Thanks in advance!

p.s. (BTW I realized the 800 or so price probably includes the $80 diagnostic - so the repairs are probably actually in the $700's)

Response From Hammer Time

No, what I mean is they barely pay more than minimum wage and the people they hire I wouldn't let change my oil. You will never find what you need (competence) in any multi-location chain store.

Response From glyph

Thanks - I will try to find another shop.

In the meantime I have looked around online, and it seems like some places say the air induction cleaning, and the fuel injection service is probably only needed if you actually experience problems with the car - would you agree?

I looked through records and found I had spark plugs replaced at 100k (about 20k early) about 5 years ago. So I am thinking I can go without the plugs - would you agree?

the serpentine belt (that does have some cracking on the inside (outside looks normal though - should that be replaced as soon as there is cracking on the inner side?

Then the manifold and valve gaskets I assume need to be replaced to resolve the Lean condition.

Thanks in advance for your advice!

2006 yaris turns over, wont start

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From steve123123 on 2006 yaris turns over, wont start

Hi everyone, I'm having the oddest issues with my girlfriend's 2006 Toyota Yaris: The engine turns over and won't start, and no OBD codes come up. I've tried starting fluid in the air intake to check bad fuel pump(no change), and i pulled two of the spark plugs and check for arc (had spark). Ive run out of ideas except for changing sensors, but theres no codes generated as there would be for a cam sensor. Ideas?

Additional info:
-Girlfriend says the car had a little trouble starting a couple times before it stopped in my driveway
-i can't hear the fuel pump come on when the key is turned to ON, but the starting fluid applied through mass air flow sensor port had no effect while trying to start.

Response From Discretesignals

You sure this is a 2006 Yaris? They didn't show up in the states until 2007.

Will it start if you hold the throttle open 1/4 the way? Make sure the throttle plate isn't bound or carboned up.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

? Good point DS - Yaris not sold till 2007 except for Puerto Rico for some reason for US and Canada would have access to sell them as well TMK. Only with a 1.5 "T" code engine? Who knows, should be same as a 2007 at a glance. The web is never wrong of course!


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Only takes so much for an engine to react, fuel delivered, spark and on time, compression and air it should at least do something.


Not so sure your way of trying starting fluid to prime this worked at all and you lack fuel. Plugs would also be dry and you looked at a couple should know. Can't hear fuel pump is inconclusive as area noise can drown that out and it needs pressure from it not sound - some not so noisy?


Try again with starting fluid right into throttle body. It should react. If so fuel pressure test next and bet you find nothing.


Any vehicle rule out whacked stuff like any theft controls and even if it's out of fuel despite what gauge might say?


T

1993 toyota 4 runner v6

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From drose91865 on 1993 toyota 4 runner v6

I've been having trouble with my 93 4 runner, SE V6, automatic trans, it has 218,000+ on the odometer so I know it's tired.
Most of the time it runs fine but lately I have been losing power and it misses really bad with a warm or hot engine. Sometimes I have zero throttle response and then all of a sudden it catches and blasts off!!
I took out the thermostat in the summer due to some overheating issues/fixed some leaks and replaced radiator but did not put thermostat back in, I was thinking transmission because when it first started the missing and power loss was when it was cold and once the motor warmed it ran fine but then it started doing it all the time, more so when warmed up then when cold.
Like I said I can leave my house after not letting it warm up at all and it will drive fine and then go to pull away from a stoplight and it almost won't run and then at the next light it's fine again.
Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated!!
Thanks in advance, Danny Rose

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Put the thermostat back in as all you have accomplished is making water/coolant flow too fast at water pump and overheating away from it confusing the whole engine and high risk of damage. Taking it out may make the gauge happy but not the engine!

T

Response From Discretesignals

I have a 92 Toyota pickup with the 3.slow in it.

First thing you can try is seeing if there are any trouble codes in the ECU. There is a diagnosic connector under the hood. If you flip the cap there are a bunch of terminals. Underneath the cap is the label for the terminals in the connector. Take a jumper wire and jump TE1 to E1 and turn the ignition on. The check engine light will flash two digit trouble codes if there are any being stored.

Some other things that you can check are the vane air flow meter and the TPS. A lot of times the resistor card inside the vane air flow meter gets worn out inside and the vane wiper will hit a dead spot causing the computer to lean out the fuel going to the engine. You can check the vane air flow sensor with an ohm meter. The TPS works about the same as a vane sensor and can be checked with a ohm or volt meter also. The TPS is hard to get to, so it's better to make your checks at the ECU connector.

Response From drose91865 Top Rated Answer

I put in the new TPS and now it bucks/revs up and down when the throttle is pressed...It seemed to run fine while the TPS was unplugged other then me having to manually shift gears...That thing is a bitch to get to.
What to do next?
I also put a new mass air flow sensor in when I got it in January of this year.

Response From Discretesignals

Did you check for any stored codes in the ECU? You may have a TPS code in memory since you had disconnected it. You may have to clear codes by disconnecting the battery and then recheck for any possible codes.

When you slap on a new TPS you have to make sure that it is adjusted correctly by using an ohm meter. The ECU doesn't have the capability of auto zeroing the sensor.

1. Loosen the two set screws that secure the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) to the throttle housing. (DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREWS).
2. Disconnect the connector to the TPS and connect an Ohmmeter to terminals IDL and E2.
3. Insert a 0.62mm (0.024in.) feeler gauge between the throttle stop screw and stop lever.
4. Rotate the TPS counter-clockwise and slowly back clockwise until the Ohmmeter just looses continuity, (infinite ohms).
5. Secure the TPS with the two set screws.
6. Remove the feeler gauge and recheck TPS setting. ^ There should be continuity with a 0.50mm (0.020in.) feeler gauge inserted in the stop.
^ There should be NO continuity with a 0.77mm (0.030in.) feeler gauge inserted in the stop.
7. Remove the Ohmmeter and reconnect the TPS connector.

Response From drose91865

Thanks Discrete. I haven't check the codes yet. I'll work on it again this weekend.
Thank you again for all your help!!

Response From drose91865

Thank you Discrete!!

Response From drose91865

Thank you Tom!!

stalling/dying feeling when at stop light or idle

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Question From ntolano on stalling/dying feeling when at stop light or idle

2003 Toyota Camry
118,000
2.4 engine...I think...

so this is the third time I'm having this problem.

Bought the car in Oct 2011. I've taken the car back twice to have this fixed. The fixes seem to be temp. Spark plugs one time(free).. some cap the second($175) This third time, I return and the shop and it happens to be closed down.. for good.

When i'm warming up the car or stopped at a light or just slowing down. it shakes like its going to stall, or die. Like a pulse. small little jerks. Its been happening for 3 days now, and gets worse the more i drive it.

I was quoted $111 just for a diagnostic at a Toyota dealership and $130 at an independent spot.

What do you guys think?

-Nicky

Response From Discretesignals

Check engine light on?

$130 diagnostic charge at an independent shop...damn. Where do you live?

Response From ntolano

No! But before, with the same issue, it took a few days for it to finally come on.

I live in Seattle, Wa.

Response From Discretesignals

When it did come on, did the shop that attempted to repair it tell you the code? They might of cleared it, it might come back on and help out with determining what the computer is catching.


Cost of living must be high up there.

Response From ntolano

It took about 4 days before to come on. the place I took it was super shady so I didn't get much information out of them about what was going on.

So is that what I do? just wait for the light to come on?

Response From Discretesignals

It would help greatly if the computer was to make a code pop up. It's possible that the computer is going to set a code for a misfire. Letting the computer do the work, so you know what to look at helps out a lot.

There is a possibility that the computer is getting ready to turn on the light. Sometimes you can tell if something is going to happen by looking for what is called pending codes. You need a code reader that has the ability to view stored and pending codes.

Response From ntolano

Air flow meter and throttle body very dirty. was the diagnosis.

and I was told.....

at some point (before I bought it) the car blew a head gasket and needed a new engine.. that was about 100,000 miles. I bought it at 105,000. I didn't know this history. but there is a used engine in the car now, there's just no record of when the engine went in or how many miles was on it when it went in. So I assume it was the solution to the 100,000 problem but theres no real way of finding out. But it could possibly be a good thing. or a potentially very expensive in the future.

but some good info that makes me feel super helpless.

Response From Heneryg Top Rated Answer


Two things that will save a lot of $$$$. Buy a can of CRC Mass Air Flow sensor cleaner (#05110) and a can of generic carb cleaner.
A) remove the 2 phillips screws and clean air mass sensor
using the CRC #05110, do not touch the filament with your fingers. Reinstall air mass.
B) remove the throttle housing and clean using generic carburetor cleaner being careful not to bend the throttle plate when opening or being forceful in opening.
C) You can also reset the computer map by disconnecting the battery overnight. When you connect battery let it idle till RPM's drop then road test driving normal at first and then hard accell a few times.

Response From Hammer Time

This thread is 6 months old and way too stale to be answering and I seriously doubt cleaning the MAF is going to correct the stalling.

Thread locked.