802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Buy Discount Lincoln Mkz Parts

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle

Choose a Year for your Lincoln MKZ

  • 2019
  • 2018
  • 2017
  • 2016
  • 2015
  • 2014
  • 2013
  • 2012
  • 2011
  • 2010
  • 2009
  • 2008
  • 2007

Showing 1 - 10 of 3,733 Products.

Refine Your Search

Motorcraft
2008 Lincoln MKZ Radiator Cap Motorcraft

P311-4683CE1    W0133-1930304  New

Qty:
$15.71
Motorcraft Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2008 - Lincoln MKZ
Motorcraft
2012 Lincoln MKZ Radiator Cap 6 Cyl 3.5L Motorcraft

P311-4683CE1    W0133-1930304  New

Qty:
$15.71
Motorcraft Radiator Cap
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • Location-Expansion Tank
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Lincoln MKZ V 6 Cyl 3.5L 213 3496
Motorcraft
2011 Lincoln MKZ Spark Plug 6 Cyl 3.5L Motorcraft

P311-026300B    W0133-1957706  New

Qty:
$17.48
Motorcraft Spark Plug
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Finewire Single Platinum
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2011 - Lincoln MKZ V 6 Cyl 3.5L 213 3496
Motorcraft
2012 Lincoln MKZ Ignition Switch Motorcraft

P311-0B0D14D    W0133-2026205  New

Qty:
$77.85
Motorcraft Ignition Switch
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2012 - Lincoln MKZ
Mahle
2009 Lincoln MKZ Engine Oil Filter Mahle - Single Filter - Spin-On

P311-0735599    W0133-1698807  New

Qty:
$24.39
Mahle Engine Oil Filter
  • Original
  • Single Filter - Spin-On
Brand: Mahle
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2009 - Lincoln MKZ
Motorcraft
2018 Lincoln MKZ Brake Light Switch Motorcraft

P311-1912EC8    W0133-2778483  New

Qty:
$24.79
Motorcraft Brake Light Switch
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2018 - Lincoln MKZ
Motorcraft
2012 Lincoln MKZ Air Filter 6 Cyl 3.5L Motorcraft

P311-1FB4944    W0133-1840112  New

Qty:
$28.42
Motorcraft Air Filter
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
  • OE Replacement
Brand: Motorcraft
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2012 - Lincoln MKZ V 6 Cyl 3.5L 213 3496
Husky Liners
2011 Lincoln MKZ Floor Mat Set - Rear Husky Liners - Heavy Duty Floor Mat

P311-08F4DF7    52021  New

Qty:
$57.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set  Rear
  • 2nd Or 3rd Seat Floor Mats
  • Black; 2 pc.; Does Not Cover Hump
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Rear
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Position
2011 - Lincoln MKZ Hybrid Rear
Husky Liners
2009 Lincoln MKZ Floor Mat Set - Rear Husky Liners - Heavy Duty Floor Mat

P311-08F4DF7    52021  New

Qty:
$57.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set  Rear
  • 2nd Or 3rd Seat Floor Mats
  • Black; 2 pc.; Does Not Cover Hump May Require Trimming For Correct Fit/Trim Guides Molded In Mat
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Rear
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
2009 - Lincoln MKZ Rear
Spectre
2007 Lincoln MKZ Mass Air Flow Sensor Adapter Spectre - Air Sensor Mount Kit

P311-1870E83    8705  New

Qty:
$11.19
Spectre Mass Air Flow Sensor Adapter
  • Air Flow Sensor Mount
  • 3 in. Dia.; Includes Collar Clamp; 3 Adapter Plates
  • Air Sensor Mount Kit
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automotive Item Grade: High Performance
    • Car Make:
      • 1988-1995 Nissan 240sx
      • 1989-1994 Suzuki Swift
      • 1991-1994 Nissan Sentra Se-r
      • 1993-1996 Nissan 200sx
      • 1993-1996 Nissan Altima
      • 1993-1998 Ford Probe Se
      • 1994-2002 Ford Mustang V6
      • Audi 2.8l W/aah And Afc Engine Code
      • Mitsubishi
      • Nissan
      • Subaru
      • Toyota Equipped W/bosch M.a.f. Sensor
    • Compatibility: Universal
    • Finish: Chrome
    • Hardware Included: Yes
    • Inlet Diameter: 3.000 In. (76.2mm)
    • Inside Diameter: 2.875 In. (73mm)
    • Insulated: No
    • Item Weight: 0.400 Lbs. (0.2 Kg)
    • Length: 3.875 In. (98mm)
    • Material: Abs
    • Outside Diameter: 3.000 In. (76mm)
    • Package Contents: 1 Mass Adapter Mount, 3 Adapters
    • Package Material: Plastic Other
    • Package Type: Blisterpack
    • Prop 65 (C, R or CR): Cr
    • Prop 65 Warning Label: Https://www.knfilters.com/images/l/prop65.jpg
    • Title: Spectre Spe-8705 Air Flow Sensor Mount
    • Tube Style: Straight
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • Spectre's 3 Inch Chrome Air Flow Sensor Mount includes a coupling collar and features a triple chrome plated co-polymer ABS resin construction, which insulates the intake tract from heat. This product can be combined with other 3 inch chrome tubes to create an intake for almost any application, and also includes 3 mass air flow sensor adaptors to fit a variety of applications. Designed for sensors calibrated to 2.875 inch inside diameter tubes, this mount is not intended for turbo-charged or super-charged engines.
Brand: Spectre
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2007 - Lincoln MKZ

Showing 1 - 10 of 3,733 Products.


Latest Lincoln Mkz Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2007 Lincoln MKZ door panel removal.

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From emmaasmithh on 2007 Lincoln MKZ door panel removal.

I need to know how to remove the door panel on the driver's side of a 2007 Lincoln MKZ. HELP PLEASE.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer





Removal and Installation

  1. NOTE: RH side shown, LH side similar.

Remove the front door handle bezel.
  • Remove the cover.
  • Remove the screw.
  • Disconnect the electrical connectors.
    1. Remove the front door handle cover screw.
  • Remove the screw cover.
  • Remove the screw.
    1. Remove the upper rear trim panel screw.
    2. Remove the lower trim panel screw.
    3. Remove the front door trim panel.
  • Disconnect the electrical connector.
    1. To install, reverse the removal procedure.

    Lincoln mkz startup problem

    Showing 9 out of 9 Posts
    Question From innotime2 on Lincoln mkz startup problem

    2012 Lincoln mkz
    V6
    I believe 3.5l?

    Passed couple days can only start it with a jump. Took it to get a new battery and the current battery tested great. No problems found.

    Doesn't turn over or crank at all. Power seats don't work. Radio don't work. Horn sounds like it want to blow but not enough power. So wtf could be causing it to not get any power through the battery?

    Response From Hammer Time

    The fact that this starts with a jump narrows it down to two possible things only..........

    Battery discharged for whatever reason
    Poor connections at the battery.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    I tried to find the funky connection from EXACTLY a 2012 Ford product and they were AFUed before the second tank of gas from new - contractor's vehicle stuck in my driveway. Not here for me to touch at all just to wait for it to get towed out as it was sqeaky new.


    Tow driver pointed out the cable was just loose and it was funky. Yes, it did twist with a finger and neither of us touched it. Owner mad as a hornet of course not present for the tow so off it went.


    Maybe and can't know that the fricken things are shipped with batteries disconnected and set up by dealers. Just can't know diddle for a two year old vehicle for sure even with looking it up???? I think you need to tighten what I vaguely recall in sequence of an Allen head then another or the connection just wont be right????


    T

    Response From innotime2

    OK so get this. Took it to auto zone just in case. They hooked it up and their machine instantly said dead battery. Rest wouldn't even go further with the battery being 100% dead. So vim crossing my fingers hoping that was the only problem and if that is the problem then the first crap place I went to needs to upgrade their equipment which read that the battery exceeds the average.

    So another question. With the car being 2012 isn't that kinda new for the battery to die? Something draining it? Other then a car charger in I have nothing extra than standard that uses anything. Lights were set on auto but switched to manual just in case.

    Nothing positive yet. We t tell for a few days if it keeps starting but a dead battery definitely makes sense. So fingers still crossed and damn that first machine.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

    Hey - Parts chains are handy but it's not their job to fix your car but rather sell parts.


    If battery was tested uncharged first - no info on it's condition will be known. If tested by the outside of clamps that are NOT connected well to the actual battery as it can't so much as honk the horn then that's what it would show - no battery power.


    It takes a jump (not recommended without knowing just what you are doing and with what) you are jumping the cables not the battery.


    Why are you fooling with this? You are risking any potential warranty or recall of some possible expensive damage already that will not be honored by fooling with it.


    Yes - a battery can be bad new, days, old, ruined in handling and destroyed by allowing one to go dead too much or overcharging. Most that last a month are good but exceptions to all.


    Everything you've noted suggests this battery can't make a connection to the cables properly. I don't care if they look all perfect but it starts or did when jumped and battery for that moment wasn't involved at all,


    T

    Response From innotime2

    Tom no offense but what the he'll are you talking about? Are you one of th hose grumpy I hate life type of people or what? Settle down there badass.

    So you're saying changing a battery is going to mess up my car or void and warranty? Not sure what you are saying about it being tested the first time when it was dead. The first machine they hooked it up to didn't say it was a dead battery. The first machine said the battery was 100% perfect. The 2nd machine at auto zone said it was dead and needed replaced before they could test the alt. Or anything else.

    From my understanding it wasn't the fact that the battery was not making a connection. It was the fact that the 2nd machine said the battery was dead and needed replaced.

    Not sure I'm understanding anything you said

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    Relax sport - here to help you with what should be so dumb easy to figure out.


    You have stated the car does about nothing electrical but will plain start with a jump. That says about it all right there.


    See just any top post type cable.........
    http://ts1.mm.bing.net/th?id=HN.607990635584032189&pid=1.9&w=300&h=300&p=0
    Top right anything of the sort is grabbing the post of the battery dead or not but might not make a connection. The outside of that if jumped with enough power would send the power on to the car without much regard to the battery at all and does start as you said!


    If battery was a total dead short by itself the jump would suck into the dead battery and near certainly wouldn't start or power the car with anything. There would likely be a reaction notices just with the last connection to jump it as well.


    This is primal so far. It's near sure that somehow it doesn't connect much but some. With that it can jump but such a weak connection it can't even recharge and surprised the thing runs well at all if weak enough. All this without complications of any antitheft, remote starter things or whatevers.


    Note that starter motor is the huge draw required. The rest of electrical things all thru don't need what the starter requires in AMPS to operate.


    Note that because you can't say or know how this was tested or charged if it was by the outer ring of those clamps with battery in place you get the same fault it has - no connection to test or charge worth a dang.


    I can't be sure of anything not right in front of me and sorry if I missed a detail putting this off on the wrong tangent. What I'm thinking is you get this running by jumping and any lighting or powered stuff is struggling with power from the alternator and maintain a so far unknown battery at full charge all the time it's risking electrical things throughout.


    Seriously, this seems like just a fluke right at the battery that is going on even if it looks right it smacks that the issue at least started right there, that's all. If you can't prove that's good and can with even cheap testing the rest is wasting time and harming things,


    Peace friend. I do this endlessly for free many times to save people from themselves,


    Tom

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    2012 a bit new BUT I think the battery bolts are funky vs many from past years. States uses an Allen wrench to fasten?


    Best guess is that it's not tight enough or can't make a good connection right at the battery. If this thing is under full warranty still you shouldn't be messing with it at all really,


    T

    Response From kev2

    battery is a part of the system- did you check charging system, a 2012* I would ask is the CEL on, did you ck for codes?

    Is the vehicle STOCK- no added electrical ie remote starter? audio? lighting?


    * as tom suggested - warranty?

    2008 Lincoln MKZ with extensive brake pedal travel

    Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
    Question From Pete6114 on 2008 Lincoln MKZ with extensive brake pedal travel

    I'm at a loss here..
    This car has 55,000km on it
    The dealer replaced the right rear caliper 2 month ago. When i got it back i noticed a difference in the brake pedal. It was not quite as firm as before but i did not take it back as it was not all that bad.
    Last week, they replaced both front calipers.When i got it back, the brake pedal was spongy with excessive pedal travel before brakes start working. I do not get to the end but not far from it. My toe touches the metal arm, the pedal itself is mounted on.
    Brakes where bled again, which resulted in a tiny bit of improvement but still have the excessive pedal travel problem.
    Now they tell me that there is nothing wrong with the brakes.

    ( i do know that they did not use a machine to bleed brakes, as they just pinch the brake hose while working on brakes.?????
    Apparently, according to the ford dealer this old way of bleeding is ok because no air gets into the ABS if they pinch the rubber brake hose.)

    Point is that my brakes where just fine before caliper replacements. No new pads or rotors....just calipers been replaced.

    Thank you for any and all replys.
    Pete

    Response From Pete6114

    Hammer Time, Thank you for your great post
    I have 2 questions

    1.) Assuming they followed those instruction to the T, why would i end up with all that excessive pedal travel and not so hard pedal after caliper replacement that i did not have before?

    2.) This is done under warranty, but if i was to buy a pressure bleeder for home use ( for future use after warranty expires ), which make and model of bleeder gives the best bang for the buck. I, so far have been driving fords only. Not sure if some bleeders are brand specific or not.

    Thank you
    Pete

    Response From Hammer Time

    There are varying sizes and styles of bleeders. They are a bit pricey for one time use. The bigger part of the expense is in the adapter package.
    The vacuum type are cheaper but I don't think they will get the job done for you.


    I have this one here and I use it quite often. It solves most bleeding issues.

    http://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-2222.aspx

    http://www.tooltopia.com/power-probe-bakit01.aspx

    Response From Pete6114

    I sure am not fond of it either.
    Dealer told me today that he can NOT find another ford dealer within 50 miles that has the brake bleeding machine.
    So, i wonder how they get air out of the HCU (Hydraulic control unit) or ABS?
    Not sure if that's the case with my car ( personally, i think it is)
    Sure is real troubling that not every dealership has the machine/ laptop and software required to properly bleed brakes.

    Just venting here.....
    I hope somebody has the answer in this forum and is willing to share it with me. Dealer wont.......!

    Pete

    Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

    This info may help you. It applies to that car.
    Pay close attention to the part about changing calipers. You shouldn't have to use a scan tool.
    Your life would be a lot easier if you had a pressure bleeder though.

    Response From Tom Greenleaf

    A 2008! It needs proper brake bleeding by exact procedure I wouldn't have but dealer sure should! Just pinching off line on a fairly new vehicle? Not sure I like the idea for a brake hose at all as that will likely be a trouble spot later if not bubbled out now,

    T