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Showing 1 - 10 of 6,593 Products.

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Eurospare
2014 Land Rover Range Rover Disc Brake Rotor Eurospare

P311-017283F    W0133-1952468  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$100.63
Eurospare Disc Brake Rotor
  • Coated
Brand: Eurospare
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel
2014 - Land Rover Range Rover Supercharged
Eurospare
2016 Land Rover Range Rover Disc Brake Rotor Eurospare

P311-017283F    W0133-1952468  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$100.63
Eurospare Disc Brake Rotor
  • Coated
  • ; Chas: -285152
Brand: Eurospare
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Aspiration Chassis Range
2016 - Land Rover Range Rover HSE Supercharged up to 285152
Eurospare
2016 Land Rover Range Rover Disc Brake Rotor Eurospare

P311-017283F    W0133-1952468  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$100.63
Eurospare Disc Brake Rotor
  • Coated
  • ; Chas: 285153-, with Brembo Front Calipers
Brand: Eurospare
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Chassis Range
2016 - Land Rover Range Rover Base 285153 and up
Jurid
2013 Land Rover Range Rover Disc Brake Pad Set Jurid - with Shims

P311-515BE69    W0133-2051437  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$120.55
Jurid Disc Brake Pad Set
  • OE Formulated
  • ; Chas: 996786-999945
  • with Shims
Brand: Jurid
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Chassis Range
2013 - Land Rover Range Rover 996786 and up 999945
Textar
2013 Land Rover Range Rover Disc Brake Pad Set Textar - with Shims

P311-3DF564B    W0133-2051437  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$123.40
Textar Disc Brake Pad Set
  • OE Formulated
  • ; Chas: 996786-999945
  • with Shims
Brand: Textar
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Chassis Range
2013 - Land Rover Range Rover 996786 and up 999945
Elwis
2010 Land Rover Range Rover Fuel Injector Seal Kit Elwis

P311-4EFBED6    W0133-1983090  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$14.85
Elwis Fuel Injector Seal Kit
  • Includes Seal, Retainer & O-Ring
Brand: Elwis
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2010 - Land Rover Range Rover
Elwis
2013 Land Rover Range Rover Fuel Injector Seal Kit Elwis

P311-4EFBED6    W0133-1983090  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$14.85
Elwis Fuel Injector Seal Kit
Brand: Elwis
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2013 - Land Rover Range Rover
Ferodo
2013 Land Rover Range Rover Disc Brake Pad Set Ferodo - with Shims

P311-2026B07    W0133-2051437  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$135.71
Ferodo Disc Brake Pad Set
  • Premier Eco-Friction
  • ; Chas: 996786-999945
  • with Shims
Brand: Ferodo
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Chassis Range
2013 - Land Rover Range Rover 996786 and up 999945
Original Equipment
2011 Land Rover Range Rover Wheel Lug Nut Original Equipment

P311-1851F99    W0133-2121427  New

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$19.57
Original Equipment Wheel Lug Nut
  • This Original Equipment Manufacturer part is the same part that was made & installed by the car manufacturer at the factory where the car was produced.
Brand: Original Equipment
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle
2011 - Land Rover Range Rover
K&N
1993 Land Rover Range Rover Engine Oil Filter 8 Cyl 4.2L K&N

P311-56FE6F6    HP-2004  New

1220185 , 1220325 , 122B185 , 51068 , 51084 , 51085 , 51362 , 51521 , AFL5071 , EFL037 , EFL039 , EFL090 , EFL37 , FL137A , FL173A , FL228 , FL259 , FL264 , FL293 , FL300 , FL332 , FL787 , FL842 , HP3 , L10017 , L10018 , L14670 , L17200 , L18207 , L20020 , L20081 , L22167 , L25195 , L27234 , L27261 , L34875 , M1204 , M1204A , PF1180 , PF13 , PF20 , PF2136 , PF44011 , PFW1103 , PH16 , PH2844 , PH2857 , PH2861A , PH2978 , PH43 , PH7 , PH7226 , PH8994 , PH9B , PS2004 , S7328 , S8994 , SS2004 , TG16 , TG3614 , X122 , XG16 , XG3614

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$15.60
  • Oil Filter
  • ; Premium Oil Filter w/Wrench Off Nut
  • K&N Wrench-Off oil filters are engineered to help ensure high flow rates and exceptional protection from contaminants. Each filter comes with a hex nut welded to the top of the canister, allowing for easy removal with a standard wrench.
  • Product Attributes:
    • Anti Drain Back Valve: Yes
    • Bypass Valve: Yes
    • Filter Material: High Flow Premium Media
    • Gasket Material: Viton Rubber
    • Height: 4 In (102 Mm)
    • Outside Diameter: 3.656 In (93 Mm)
    • Package Material: Paperboard
    • Package Type: Box
    • Product Style: Oil Filters
    • Prop 65 Yes/No: No
    • PSI Relief Valve: 8-11
    • Removal Nut: Yes
    • Removal Nut Size: 1 Inch
    • Style: Canister
    • Thread Specification: 3/4 In. - 16unf-2b
    • Title: K&n Hp-2004 Oil Filter
    • Weight: 1.2 Lb (0.6 Kg)
  • K&N premium oil filters are meticulously engineered to offer outstanding filtration and engine protection. Designed to operate with all synthetic, conventional, and blended motor oils, K&N's pleated synthetic-blend filtration media helps to shield your engine from contaminants and ensure a consistent flow of oil. The heavy-duty canister is engineered to be exceptionally durable, and a one-inch welded hex nut can be used for quick and easy filter removal. Each filter is specifically designed to withstand the service intervals recommended by vehicle manufacturers, and is protected by the K&N 1-Year Limited Warranty.
Brand: K&N
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Land Rover Range Rover V 8 Cyl 4.2L - 4200

Showing 1 - 10 of 6,593 Products.


Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Solve the impossible!!!!!!!

Showing 9 out of 9 Posts
Question From redrover on Solve the impossible!!!!!!!

Hi everyone,
I have a 1990 Land Rover Range Rover with 3.9L v8 in desprete need of help. While driving everything would act normal until I hit about 1900 RPM's. Then the engine would hesistate and want to stop working dropping to a almost stall and by some miracle coughing back to life before dying out and comming back again. It's reached the point it doesn't matter if i floor it or just let it sit because its putzing at everything. I replaced everything that would normally cause this problem: throttle position sensor, idle stepper motor, and have cleaned and sanded all electrical connectors from the battery, starter, coil and distributor and ignition cables. I also ran fuel injector cleaner thru the system because you never know. My thinking is that if i fix or try fixing everything all at the same time normal running will be achieved. Yet no forward progress has been made. I'm pretty sure that the problem is electrical but I've exhusted all my ideas. Any and all advice is needed.
Thanks

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just a direction to test out. Valve timing, vacuum leaks and exhaust restrictions. You've got some age on this pup so more comes into the mix than if newer. Good old testing with a vacuum gauge could be quite telling,

T

Response From redrover

thanks for a quick reply - ill be sure to try that and report back

Response From redrover

ok so heres the update. I did a bit more research and came to a few conclusions:
1) I have no idea what the proper vacuum pressure would be.
2)because of #1 I didn't check the vacuum system pressure.
3) my problems could be because of my distrubitor locking up. not entirely sure how this happens because it starts and drive. granted the hesitation and lost RPMs does point to fuel delivery something is telling me electrical still.

my source: http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/misc.html#advance
the faults they give(stepper motor, TPS etc,) are what were replaced to solve this problem

I have a new distributor cap and ignition wires on the way. Should be in by wednesday (4/8/2009) or hopefully sooner!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Just a tidbit on engine "actual" vacuum and testing:

At sea level manifold vacuum at idle runs about 18ish Hg (inches of Mercury) or perhaps a tad higher. If you put a gauge in line such that a device is not disabled you get the real reading. It can tell of uniform low vacuum meaning usually valve timing, bouncing needle can suggest valve issues and floating needle can mean leaks. It's a pretty good old phart way to tell basic engine situation and can tell of exhaust restrictions.

The reading at idle should be steady and with no load when RPMs are held at 2,000 + RPMs the reading should be the same. If lower it suggests exhaust restriction but not why or where.

Vacuum is being monitored by everything and engine/trans functions adjust accordingly. Low vacuum suggests engine is under load and adjustment for extra fuel, timing adjustments and what gear an automatic should be in get involved,

T

Response From redrover

Where would be the best spot to hook the gauge up to? Wouldn't it give the same readings if i put a T-splitter in and hooked it up there?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Items directly on intake or low on throttle body are frequently true manifold vacuum. So should the hose to a vacuum booster or pcv but would take larger "T" to adapt in line.



There are assorments of these type tees at parts or hardware stores,

T

Response From redrover Top Rated Answer

4/7 update
Last night i went to advance auto to rent the vacuum tester. I never acually took it out of the box because the truck wouldn't start, as in, when the key was turned to start everything died as if it shorted out, however, it never did. I got so pissed off at it I returned the kit. Later that night with help from Dad, we managed to get the engine turning over. I was forced to stop the process because there was severe arcing and sparking coming from the negative terminal on the battery.

Goals for today was to go back to advance and get a new terminal clamp and drill a new ground on the frame after inspecting the wire.

Good news: My distributor cap and ignition wires came today! too bad its snowing and the truck is stuck at the end of the driveway.

The guy at advance did tell me a way to check to see if there was a leak at the plenum chamber. When the engine is running spray carb cleaner in the chamber and around the outside of the vacuum hoses. If there is an idle fluxuation then there is a leak somewhere.

Hoping for warm weather again, and would love any/all thoughts on this.
thanks

Response From redrover

4/7 update 2:

I replaced the distributor cap and all of the ignition cables except for the one from the distributor to the coil, only because I couldn't slide the rubber boot easily and was excited. I took it for a spin and it hicupped twice going up my street. Other than that it was back to normal running conditions. Tomarrow I'll be replacing the old coil cable with the new one and it should be fine.

Thanks for the help. Ill be back soon enough with another problem.