802.589.0911 Live Chat With Us

Buy Discount Jeep Cj7 Parts

Finish Selecting Your Vehicle

Choose a Year for your Jeep

  • 1986
  • 1985
  • 1984
  • 1983
  • 1982
  • 1981
  • 1980
  • 1979
  • 1978
  • 1977
  • 1976

Showing 1 - 10 of 4,245 Products.

Refine Your Search

Redline
1983 Jeep CJ7 Carburetor Redline - Outlaw - Electric Choke

P311-134158F    W0133-1819448  New

Qty:
$424.68
Redline Carburetor
  • 38 DGES
  • with BBD
  • Outlaw - Electric Choke
  • Jeep,DGES
Brand: Redline
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
1983 - Jeep CJ7 C
Full
1983 Jeep CJ7 Engine Oil Filter Full

P311-31FD6FB    W0133-1903136  New

Qty:
$16.42
Full Engine Oil Filter
  • Spin-On
Brand: Full
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
1983 - Jeep CJ7 C
ACDelco
1983 Jeep CJ7 Engine Oil Filter ACDelco

P311-0F0DA66    W0133-1916878  New

Qty:
$26.48
ACDelco Engine Oil Filter
  • Professional Spin-on
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
1983 - Jeep CJ7 B
Redline
1983 Jeep CJ7 Carburetor Redline - Electric Choke

P311-134158F    W0133-1819448  New

Qty:
$424.68
Redline Carburetor
  • 32/36 DGEV
  • with BBD
  • Electric Choke
Brand: Redline
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
1983 - Jeep CJ7 C
Redline
1983 Jeep CJ7 Carburetor Redline - Manual Choke

P311-134158F    W0133-1819448  New

Qty:
$424.68
Redline Carburetor
  • 32/36 DGV
  • with BBD
  • Manual Choke
Brand: Redline
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
1983 - Jeep CJ7 C
ACDelco
1983 Jeep CJ7 Engine Oil Filter ACDelco

P311-376A6DA    W0133-1903136  New

Qty:
$28.74
ACDelco Engine Oil Filter
  • Professional Spin-on
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine VIN
1983 - Jeep CJ7 C
Premium Guard
Qty:
$3.39
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Thread Pitch M18X1.5 Outside Diameter 2.98 Height 3.42"
  • Standard Life Oil Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1982 - Jeep CJ7 L 4 Cyl 2.5L 151 -
Premium Guard
Qty:
$3.64
Premium Guard Engine Oil Filter
  • Thread Pitch 13/16-16 Outside Diameter 2.98 Height 4.02" Spin-On Filter
  • Standard Life Oil Filter
Brand: Premium Guard
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1986 - Jeep CJ7 L 6 Cyl 4.2L 258 -
Husky Liners
1979 Jeep CJ7 Floor Mat Set - Rear Husky Liners - Heavy Duty Floor Mat

P311-08F4DF7    52021  New

Qty:
$57.95
Husky Liners Floor Mat Set  Rear
  • 2nd Or 3rd Seat Floor Mats
  • Black; 2 pc.; Does Not Cover Hump
  • Heavy Duty Floor Mat
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color: Black
    • Material: Rubber
    • Position: Rear
    • Style: Molded
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Cancer And Reproductive
  • Available for virtually all of today's top selling vehicles, Husky Liners(R) Heavy Duty Floor Mats are made ultra tough to take whatever abuse you throw at them. Other mats have met their match.
Brand: Husky Liners
Position: Rear
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position
1979 - Jeep CJ7 Rear
Spectre
1978 Jeep CJ7 Engine Valve Cover 6 Cyl 4.2L Spectre - Valve Cover

P311-1090A1F    5245  New

Qty:
$49.20
Spectre Engine Valve Cover
  • Each; Baffled; Stock Height; Chrome Plated Steel
  • Valve Cover
  • Product Attributes:
    • Automotive Item Grade: Oem Standard
    • Color: Chrome
    • Cylinder Head Type: Standard
    • Engine Make/Size: Amc 199-258
    • Finish: Chrome
    • Item Height: 3.500 In. (89mm)
    • Item Weight: 4.000 Lbs. (1.8 Kg)
    • Length: 28.000 In. (711mm)
    • Material: Steel
    • Oil Filler Cap Included: No
    • Package Contents: 1 Valve Cover
    • Package Material: Paperboard
    • Package Quantity: 1
    • Package Type: Box
    • Position: N/a
    • Prop 65 (C, R or CR): Cr
    • Prop 65 Warning Label: Https://www.knfilters.com/images/l/prop65.jpg
    • Title: Spectre Spe-5245 Valve Cover
    • Valve Cover Style: Standard
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Width: 5.250 In. (133mm)
  • Available in various sizes, heights, and finishes, Spectre offers a wide variety of high performance valve covers designed to easily replace your stock covers. Designed for 1964-1980 AMC/Jeep 6 cylinder engines, this valve cover features a triple chrome-plated finish. This standard height cover is baffled to provide optimum function. With show quality construction and a sealing edge designed for an ideal fit, our valve covers are engineered to look great for applications ranging from custom builds to replacing stock equipment.
Brand: Spectre
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
1978 - Jeep CJ7 L 6 Cyl 4.2L 258 -

Showing 1 - 10 of 4,245 Products.


Latest Jeep Cj7 Repair Guides & Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Jeep CJ 7 spits but wont run

Showing 7 out of 7 Posts
Question From ejl512 on Jeep CJ 7 spits but wont run

I have a 1984 Jeep CJ7 2.5 4cyl 150ci 4spd. It backfired and stop running, I got it started but it ran rough. I gave it a tune up, plugs, wires, rotor cap, I found the vacummn advance canister on the distrib was rusted and would not move so, it is new and works fine, got it going and checked the timing all good. it idled fine but I took it for a ride and it backfired again and I nursed it back to the driveway and it died with a spit and a hiss of fuel from the carb. Now it will not start, it turns over but backfires out the tail pipe and into the carb spitting fuel at the very end. I replaced the Ign Modual, fuel pump, fuel filter, and rebuilt the re-man carb, but it still wont run. What am I missing? Did my carb just die? Is my ECM computer fried? or is my Distrib toast? Can someone provide some good direction that could lead me to making my baby work. Thanks EJ

Response From Discretesignals

I'd say you definitively have a ignition timing issue. You check for power to the ignition module on the RF fender and at the ignition coil on the red with white tracer wire with the ignition on? You have a 12V test lamp?

Response From ejl512

I will check power to the Ign Mod and coil as suggested. I manually checked spark at the coil and plugs and I do have spark at both. Dark now I will have to get my tester and test light and check both tomorrow. Back then. THANKS

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

If you have spark using a spark tester, you must have power to the coil and module. The question is is the spark happening at the right time or is there some type of intermittent electrical problem to cause the coil or module to lose power? If you have a meter that has a min/max feature you might catch an intermittent power loss to the coil or mod.

Make sure your distributor didn't turn on you or the reluctor wheel inside isn't spinning on the shaft from a sheared pin.

Response From ejl512

Thanks a ton: I got out the old Muli Meter and tested both the primary and secondary OHMs of the Coil and they were both out of parameters. I removed the coil and it was an original AMC factory unit. I put a new one in and she finally started!!! I let it warm up and readjusted everything on the carb and checked the timing, all good. I still have a miss at idle and at high rpm. I think I need to replace my Magnetic Coil Pickup in the distributor and this will help. Do you agree. or where should I go from here to get this thing dialed in like it was!!. Thanks again. EJ

Response From Hammer Time

I don't think a pick up coil has anything to do with an intermittent misfire. You need to look at plugs, wires, cap and rotor and any vacuum leaks.

Response From Hammer Time

Make sure you check for corrosion on the coil tower or any cracks in the coil.

jeep cj7 exhaust, cat, headers, and muffler

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From meater on jeep cj7 exhaust, cat, headers, and muffler

I've got a 1981 Jeep CJ7 (6 cyl) that needs a new muffler due to the rotted out old one. Easy enough to replace, right? WRONG!

The previous owner had everything from the catalytic convertor to the exhaust pipe welded together. He also had Headman Headers installed on the manifold.

The only piece that has not been welded on the exhaust, is on the pipe that comes out of the cat that connects to the headers via nuts and bolts.

So, it would appear that this is my only option at cleanly removing the exhaust. But where do I find all of the connection pipes? My main problem is finding a pipe that I can reconnect to the header and then to the catalytic converter (that I must replace due to the welding). I'd like to do this without welding. Any ideas out there?

ps- i would like to use a cat rather than omitting it entirely.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Arggh! This sounds so custom that you can't count on OE parts to work or fit without some cutting or add on short pieces. If you don't have torches this is going to be tough.

You may find it cost efficient to have a muffler shop just weld in another muffler if the rest is ok to save.

Where I live you can't eliminate a converter from any vehicle that was made with one new -- could be different where you live,

T

Returning to service after 10 year storage.

Showing 3 out of 6 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From gil travis on Returning to service after 10 year storage.

1976 Jeep CJ7 with AMC 305 V8, auto transmission. Vehicle rolls when in Park. When under power and in gear, at idle speed, vehicle will not move forward or back. When attempting to shift back into Park, grinding occurs and prevents engagement. Than you in advance for your valued knowledge. Prior to storage none of these issues were present!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Do you know what was done if anything to store this? Towed to some place maybe or anything more?


Oh boy - lots and lots possible. Not moving in Park suggests either it wasn't even left in park and it stuck or driveshaft might have been removed to towing it to where it is? That would if fluid didn't just pour out leave engine turning trans some and would buzz trying to get park and with no driveshaft wouldn't hold. Just a thought on just that. There will be lots to do other than this,


T

Response From gil travis

Thank you for your interest Tom. I parked the Jeep because the windshield frame was rusted and the fuel filler hose leaked. I had building space for storage and it remained there far more time than intended. Priorities change when more important issues must be faced. Ten weeks turned into ten years and no prep. for storage was made.
I have recently completed repairs and all is fine with the exception of the THM 400 problem. The trans. fluid is pink and translucent as if new. The shift linkage is operating properly and not over or under shooting the shift lever positions coming out of the transmission.
I assume that activating the Park position is purely a mechanical action and attempted to creep forward, in gear, and engage Park while moving with the intention of overcoming minor alignment problems. The car would not move in any gear forward or back.
I recently purchased vacuum tubing to replace existing, could possibly going to the transmission, leaving to install and hope that it is the cure.

Response From gil travis Top Rated Answer

I found the problem Tom. At some time while working, I accidentally caused the transfer case to shift into neutral. All is well in Norton, Ohio and can move to my next project from storage, a 1968 340 Formula S Fastback 4- speed Plymouth Barracuda, registering 64,000 miles. Has been on jack stands next to the Jeep for the same period of time. Thank you for your support, you help make this site a joy to read.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

GREAT! Now on to whatever else it will need for sitting so long.


I'll close this thread out as solved to keep spammer out. Ask any moderator if you want to re-open this one or start a new one for other issues.


Glad this was just that simple,


Tom

Response From Tom Greenleaf

10 years is enough to forget if anything was done to the rear driveshaft which by your explanation is just how a trans would behave if it wasn't splined to driveshaft and hooked up to yoke at rear differential. It runs, and there still fluid motion to turn trans inside a bit. You'd see that if you hoisted rear wheels when in just 2WD on many/most but without turning anything if so for now whatever reason it would grind going BACK to park as that's a mechanical PAWL (sp?) - imagine a spring pushed pointed lever into a multi toothed saw blade action while it was moving vs still is the idea however those look.


If you are sure this all behave trans wise when parked it may have lost enough fluid or maybe front pump just isn't pumping near enough to make pressure to engage.


Will it run long enough to check the fluid level for you? Even if cold it should read in Park for THM400 if dipstick is right shows by the pint and would not engage if (guess) 2-3 qts. low maybe earlier than that?


Try to verify fluid level. Another just because test is hoist rear wheels while in Park and turn either wheels or driveshaft itself and see that it does really lock I would think? Wheels would turn opposite direction and not the shaft or might both turn same way and shaft would turn and shouldn't!


Oh my - if shaft turns with this in park it's physically broken somewhere -- all this with engine OFF for a test. Undo front wheels either hubs or shifted however this one disengages.


Other and bear with me I'm not a trans specialty tech just enough clue to know real trouble from chances of some things. If this can be in "N" all the time with 4WD selector that must be known engaged in something - 4 Lo or 4Hi. I really don't know if that is shifted by vacuum, mechanical, hydraulic or what especially AMC! If you didn't cobble in that V8 engine they sure did as an option and squeezed in that GM trans. Wild overkill as you know for the thing, engine and trans.


Try some things as mentioned. We have a trans specialist with us and can go looking for him to come here or send whole thread to transmission issues he does pay a lot of attention to.


Just know even regulars here can't be here all the time but really think we can figure out why on this problem,


T

what engine will fit in my 1980 jeep j10???

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From macom_diveley on what engine will fit in my 1980 jeep j10???

I own a 1980 jeep j10 with a 401 V8 and it needs a valve job and i don't want to spend $900 on the old engine so I want to replace the engine with another and I don't know what engines will fit with the truck!!!!!!

Response From re-tired

This has been my go to source to put anything into everything

Response From Tom Greenleaf

re-tired, Did you have a link for engine swapping? macom: I think AMC was the maker of Jeeps in 1980 and later Chrysler took over.

AMC was not an engine builder TMK but adapted what was available from others for parts throughout vehicles. You need to have your VIN # at the ready and call a good salvage yard for a cross over. At the age you may have a hunt on your hands to get one that's been as checked out as can be by the yards and tons easier if it will just bolt up.

I had a 1976 AMC Matador (needed mask) which was a great car. Didn't recognize the engine back then, told it was International Harvester! Good engine and never had to do more than routine stuff to it so can't say much about the thing and it was a looooog time ago now.

I don't know how diagnosed your present engine is as to whether a valve job would solve all troubles, whatever it's causing but I bet if you checked around you could find. If the lower end is any good I'd keep what's there. A good machine shop can save and restore a lot of parts in the heads or if not adding too much as many things like the springs aren't that expensive new. I really think if lower end is ok fixing that one will be cheaper that a whole swap and risk of unknowns with used if you want to invest at all in this vehicle vs find one whole if you love the exact thing that doesn't need much or anything.

These vehicles rusted faster than average where I am so most didn't make it very long and body rust repair exceeded value of even good running cars and the Jeeps by AMC.

Also - check for clubs out there if this is tough to find what you may need. There are Jeep aficionados with a lot of NOS (new old stock) parts - perhaps more for the CJ series but it's surprising!

T

Response From re-tired

OOPS SORRY BOUT THAT .....TO MUCH EGGNOG ..HERE'S THE LINK.............. AdvanceAdapters.com | Engine & Transmission Conversion Adapters - Advance Adapters

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Cool! Even though I've never made a mistake in my life (YA RIGHT!) - did change subject line to make this thread more search-able. Good find.

An opinion on swaps: As vehicles got newer it is increasingly not practical unless committed to a change and what goes with it,

T

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

I used to have a customer that had a Chevy 350 in an older Jeep CJ7. He said it was more work than it's worth. The Jeep did very well, that is until he rolled it.
In my opinion, spend the money on the valves, at least you know what the rest of the engine is like. For less than $900, any engine you get is a crap shoot. Then, you have all that labor of swapping it out.

Steve

Response From re-tired

Years ago I had a 73 cj-5 . It soon became bored mechanics labor of love .I dropped in a 383 stroker / 4 speed and competition clutch, posi rear and welded spiders in front (hey i was young and headstrong) 3"body lift and a 5"rancho suspension lift , dual shocks at all corners and dual steering stablilizers kept the 38.5" ground hogs under control. A full roll cage / 3 point racing harness saved my a_ _ in a few roll overs.Yea it was dumb ,waste of money , dangerous . But what stories for the grandkid .