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Dorman
1999 Oldsmobile Alero Engine Intake Manifold - Upper 6 Cyl 3.4L Dorman

P311-122BD04    615-198  New

24508396

Qty:
$93.52
Dorman Engine Intake Manifold  Upper
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Silver
    • Item Grade: Regular
    • Manifold Height (in): 4 In.
    • Port Outlet Dimensions: 25 X 81 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1999 - Oldsmobile Alero Upper V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -
Dorman
2004 Oldsmobile Alero Engine Intake Manifold - Upper 6 Cyl 3.4L Dorman

P311-399041B    615-197  New

24507499 , 24507501

Qty:
$210.95
Dorman Engine Intake Manifold  Upper
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Silver
    • Item Grade: Regular
    • Manifold Height (in): 4 In.
    • Port Outlet Dimensions: 25 X 81 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Oldsmobile Alero Upper V 6 Cyl 3.4L 207 -

Latest Oldsmobile Alero Repair and Intake Manifold Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2001 Olds Alero, mystery oil light

Showing 6 out of 6 Posts
Question From DanDude7000 on 2001 Olds Alero, mystery oil light

Hey Guys,

2001 Oldsmobile Alero V6 coupe, 100k miles.

Last night I was driving back from a restaurant that is just a couple blocks from my house. Just before I got home the red oil warning lamp lit up (the oil-can one, not the 'low oil' one). The car was running fine and did not seem to be overheating. I pulled into my driveway and shut it off. I last changed the oil (lube shop) just about 3k miles ago.

This morning I checked the oil- the level is fine, light/medium brown. I started it up- no warning light. I drove around the block- no warning light or signs of overheating.

I don't know what to do at this point. Everything seems to be fine now, but I'm scared to drive it knowing that whatever caused the prior warning didn't magically fix itself. Could it have been a temporarily clogged oil filter? Faulty warning sensor?

I should mention, about 10k miles ago it was leaking coolant- ended up having the intake manifold gasket replaced. Haven't had any troubles since.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Response From Hammer Time

That is a very serious warning light. It indicates insufficient oil pressure to operate the engine and it shouldn't be driven that way at all. It could be a faulty sensor but the best way to find out is to just replace it.

Response From DanDude7000

Thanks for the help!
Just for clarification, the warning light has not lit up again since that first time. Do you think I should avoid driving it even though the light is not currently on?

Response From Hammer Time

No, not unless it comes on again which it likely will. You might want to go ahead and change the sender now. It may prevent it from coming back on.

Response From DanDude7000

Cool, will do.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Just FYI - RED warnings mean biz! Shut car OFF! Whether false alarm or not this means instant attention. Check OP manually if needed but if it's intermittent may not show a real problem right then. Pay attention! Whole engine is a stake!

T

Power hesitation for 2002 Oldsmobile Alero

Showing 2 out of 8 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From towcar on Power hesitation for 2002 Oldsmobile Alero

Hi guys, first time lurker here.

My car recently started having issue, where at lower speed the car will lose power (the engine still revs, but not much accleration/power, it gains speed slowly and jerks a little), after a while the car would gain more power again with a stronger jerk (35mph +). Described the symptom to my co-worker (he's ASE certified, but he's currently a maintenance supervisor at my place and he's always busy) and he scanned with his meter (don't know what model) and it didn't give any code. He suggested me to take the car to a transmission shop and have it checked.

At Aamco the guys checked it out and said it's a not a problem with the transmission but with the Catalytic Converter, the tech took it off and the car ran fine. They said the cat is plugged and it stinks when he took it off. As my cat is still under warranty (8 years, 80k Mi). They didn't charge me and I took it to the dealer.

Dealer called back saying the problem isn't with the Cat, but they did get a random misfire code and a code for the EGR valve. They wanted to do a fuel induction service, new spark plugs, wire, and replace the EGR valve, $899 + tax and all the fees of course.

I have my co-worker called them and explain to what the guys at Aamco find but the dealer insisted that they problem isn't with the Cat and that they have better machinery for the diagnosis of the problem.

I've had service twice before at this dealer due to bad gas (or so they say) where they did the fuel induction service, spark plugs, the whole deal, and drained the gas tank and cleaned it. They also mentioned each time when I was paying that they also replaced the fuel pump under warranty, even though they're not supposed to do. The last time I was there was 1.5 years ago and my spark plugs and wire looked brand new to my co-worker.

I don't know who to believe here, something tells me that the dealer is kinda fishy with the fuel pump replacement (may be that's the real culpit and they're charging me all the extra work for nothing??).

I can always take it to another shop but it'd be another $100. What do you guys think I should do? My co-worker did say may be he can bang on the cat for me and put it back where it won't be plugged anymore, but i think also render the cat useless.

Help...

Response From towcar

Thanks for the great suggestions and knowledge guys.

The thing is I just had all the fuel system cleaned, new spark plugs, wire, fuel tank cleaned less than 2 years ago. So the real question is could whatever bad stuff i got in my tank from before i got my fuel system cleaned slowly caused this issue almost 2 years later?

Or could the EGR valve cause the cat to fail?

I really have a few options:

1) Pay $1k (899 + tax and fees) for the dealer to fix it. I think there is more gaurantee there.
2) Go to a second dealer to get a second opinion (another $100).
3) Pay $5xx for the shop to replace the cat. Don't know if there is guarantee their even as they diagnosed it as a cat problem.
4) Buy a cat online and swap it out myself (i think the cat is bolted) as the mech at the shop was able to test drive without it so the bolts should still in good shape and don't have to be cut.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Any reason - if the engine isn't running near perfectly it would likely throw too much raw gas at converter and kill it.

Alone a restricted exhaust like a bad converter would just take power away smoothly IMO. A source problem needs to be fixed or you'll just be doing another converter soon. Anything that can make an engine run poorly can cause this - may need pro help to diagnose it,

T

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

towcar; The symptoms point to a plugged catalytic converter. This can be checked with a pressure guage connected at where the oxygen sensor is located. Anything above 2psi is not acceptable. With that said, if it is a plugged cat, something had to 'cause' it. As we say in the industry, Cats don't die, they are murdered. A misfire, if ignored, can ruin a cat. Sooooo.... The injector service shouldn't be needed more often than 30K mile intervals. Of course, it depends on what fuel you have been using. Stay with name brands. Chevron, Union 76, Texaco, ect. No minit mart or ARCO. If the cat smelled like sulphur, it is dirty. If it is dirty it's because it's burning contaminants. Being an '02, your car has misfire detection and should tell you which cylinder is causing the problem, as well as setting a code for low catalyst efficiency. The EGR valve could cause a problem if it is sticking open, but you should be able to tell if the engine is running poorly.

Response From towcar

Thanks for the quick reply.

I think it could be due to the "bad gas" problem that was fixed before. I only go to places like Sunoco and Chevron, and occasionally Walmart gas station. I never go to the mom and pop shop.

It could be that the Cat problem is caused by burning of bad gas from before?

My dilema is that if it's the Cat, it's still under warranty. However, I can't convince the current dealer that's the issue. Taking it to another shop is risky as it's another $100 and it may be a different diagnosis.

Perhaps my best course of action is to wait for my co-worker friend to look at it and may be try to lose up the cat a bit to see if the problem goes away first. If it is the cat may be i'll get the part myself on the web and pay some local shop to replace it for me. screw the warranty...

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

I'd definitely pursue the warranty option. The aftermarket 'cats' just don't last. But, if it is the cat, you need to address what caused it to die.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

As our own famous DanD would say - converters don't die - they are killed. Any misfire must be corrected asap or it will kill a converter(s),

T

Response From towcar Top Rated Answer

Additional detail: the lower intake manifold/gasket was replaced before as well (it leaked coolant). Apparently it's very common the V6.