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1996 Mazda B4000 Engine Intake Manifold - Upper 6 Cyl 4.0L Dorman

P311-28522E3    615-195  New

ZZM513130 , F77Z9424CA

Qty:
$174.49
Dorman Engine Intake Manifold  Upper
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm ?Çô Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Manifold Height (in): 5 In.
    • Package Contents: Intake Manifold, Manifold Gaskets, Self Tapping Screws
Brand: Dorman
Position: Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Mazda B4000 Upper V 6 Cyl 4.0L - 4016
Dorman
2000 Mazda B4000 Engine Intake Manifold - Upper 6 Cyl 4.0L Dorman

P311-28522E3    615-195  New

ZZM513130 , F77Z9424CA

Qty:
$174.49
Dorman Engine Intake Manifold  Upper
  • w/EGR Valve
  • Product Attributes:
    • California Proposition 65: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm ?Çô Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
    • Grade Type: Regular
    • Manifold Height (in): 5 In.
    • Package Contents: Intake Manifold, Manifold Gaskets, Self Tapping Screws
Brand: Dorman
Position: Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Mazda B4000 Upper V 6 Cyl 4.0L - 4016

Latest Mazda Repair and Intake Manifold Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

@004 Mazda 6 making a whining noise

Showing 3 out of 9 Posts | Show 6 Hidden Posts
Question From briandavis on @004 Mazda 6 making a whining noise

I have a 2004 Mazda 6 and its making a whining noise when running and idles rough. Code says its a cam sensor. Would that cause a whining noise from under the hood. Heres where you can find a you tube video

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Noises tough even with the video. For now IDK but will show it as a link.........



To me that noise is more like an electric motor failing. Why the idle not so sure so let other chime in.


Code - please post the # but it has one and may have nothing to do with the noise,


T

Response From briandavis

Thank you so much I dont have the code was at Advance this morning. I just find it hard to believe that sensor is causing that whining noise.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I may not be around too much for some of the day but will suggest some things you could try if you can.
To me the noise could be travelling away from where you might think the source is. It's clear enough you could probably hear it with a mechanic's stethoscope or just a listening rod to your ear. Careful doing that around moving parts.


Could rule out any belt driven item by taking belt off and just run for a quick while to see if noise goes away and if so spin the items on that belt by hand for feel.


To me that noise sounded almost exactly like a small electric motor like a washer pump - power door lock size motor type something gone bad or disconnected and would have to be to spin that much but not near the engine at all. The ticking sounded like normal noise to me from injectors.


That's about it until you can peg it down more precisely. I doubt crank sensor makes that noise even if there's a problem with that circuit?


T

Response From briandavis

heres another video where it starts to make a hallow like grinding

Response From GC

First things first, I would get that cam sensor code resolved.

That noise is tough. Would need to be there to hear what area it is coming from. Smog pump,alternator, cooling fan, anything that moves really could make that noise, including engine components.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Sounds like a vacuum leak. If you snap the throttle, does the noise go away? Take a spray bottle with water and spray around the intake manifold. If you hit the leak, it will make a sucking noise and change pitch.

Response From briandavis

It was a huge vacuum leak between plastic intake manifold and motor. Manifold had cracked somehow

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Welllllll! That would do it! Dang plastic engine parts Glad it's found and fixed,


T

mazda miata help gas in exhaust

Showing 3 out of 10 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From doanuts on mazda miata help gas in exhaust

HELP FAST I HAVE A 1990 MAZDA MIATA GAS AND WHITE SMOKE STARTED COMING OUT MY EXHAUST. SPARK PLUGS 2 AND 4 ARE DRENCHED IN GAS THER NEW PLUGS AND THE COIL PACK IS GOOD THER IS STILL SPARK ON ALL PLUGS. THINKING ITS FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR?????? HELP PLEASE I NEED THIS VEHICLE FER WORK I NEED ANY HELP I CAN GET And can not take it to a shop

Response From Hammer Time

White smoke generally means burning coolant, usually a blow head gasket. I would do a compression test before anything else.

Response From Discretesignals

Did you pull the vacuum hose of the regulator and check for raw fuel?

What happened with the check engine light? Did you solve that problem?

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Engine_Troubles_F16/mazda_miata_help_gas_in_exhaust_P104035/gforum.cgi?post=103532;t=search_engine#103532


Believe this or not if you get enough fuel in the cylinder(s) that it doesn't burn at all cause the spark plug is gas fouled, it will produce white gas vapor out the exhaust.

Response From doanuts

No check engine light. What one is the vacume hose thers one going from gas tank to regulator and one from regulator to intake manifold

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

The rubber vacuum hose that come from the intake manifold to the top of the regulator. Take the vacuum hose off the top of the regulator and turn the ignition on. If you see gas in the hose or gas squirting out the regulator, time for a regulator.

Response From doanuts

Thank you soo much i will try this in the morning sence it is too dark now and very cold. Is ther any other thing u think it might be if not this regulator?

Response From Discretesignals

Leaking injector.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Shane: Check the oil now and just crank for now for tests. Oil could easily be too full now and if you drive it with gas in the oil it won't lubricate diddle or cylinder wash hurt anything lubricated by that much gas. Would hate to hear of perhaps a small problem be the disaster that takes the engine out,

T

Response From doanuts

M sorry u kinda lost me on the diddle and wash was the sposta say wont? I apreciate any help

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Diddle = Not much

Wash in this usage = washes off lubricating oil. No lubrication of cylinder walls will cause rapid wear.

Check that regulator. As said just crank this for test if oil is found too full or smells of gas if this engine is to be saved. If you think there's a chance now change it now even for testing and change again if you find the source problem and fix it before driving it,

T

1990 mazda miata

Showing 2 out of 20 Posts | Show 18 Hidden Posts
Question From doanuts on 1990 mazda miata

I need help. My 1990 mazda miata check engine light comes on while driving then when i let off the gas it goes away

Response From Sidom

Have codes read & come back & post the numbers.....Most parts stores will do this for free

Response From doanuts

The engine light doesnt stay on will it still show a code if the lights not on? It only comes on while driving. But i let off on the gas pedal and the engine light turns off. This happens time to time and sometimes multiple times while driving. Iv never owned a miata and jus bought this one a couple days ago. The speedo says 390,xxxmiles but the engine dont look like thats on it or even the car itself

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, the code should be stored in memory but you may have to pay a shop to do that one since it's OBD1.

Response From doanuts

Ok sweet thanks ill get back with the codes if they dont kno what it is.. do you know what the ticking noise in the top end might be? It isnt always there is comes and goes too

Response From Hammer Time

You'll have to make it louder. I can't hear it.

Response From Discretesignals

That one you can retrieve trouble codes without a scan tool. There is a diagnostic connector under the hood. Jumper TEN and GND together in the terminal and turn the ignition on. The check engine light will flash the code(s) in two digit format.



Ticking noise could be from the valve train. The hydraulic lash adjusters (HLA) are supposed to take up the play in the valve train as things wear. With the mileage the valve train is probably worn out or you could have HLA problems. Change the oil and make sure you use the correct viscosity (10W-30) to see if that helps.

Response From Discretesignals

Code 12 means the engine computer detected an open or short in the throttle position sensor circuit.

This means you need to monitor the throttle position sensor voltage to see if you have a defective TPS, a wiring problem, or a computer issue.

To check the throttle position sensor, you need to use a volt/ohm meter.

This video goes over TPS diagnosing. The TPS operation is the same on most vehicles.


Response From doanuts

I wud like to know if fuel injector number four, cracked and flooding piston four, would also make piston number 2 not work

Response From Discretesignals

You have too many threads open on this vehicle for the same problem. We are telling you what to test and your not giving us any feedback. With the other threads, your making it confusing and leaving other hanging in the wind. Please keep it in the same thread.

Link to another open thread:

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Engine_Troubles_F16/Re%3A_1990_mazda_miata_P104227/gforum.cgi?do=post_unstick;redo=post_view_flat;so=ASC;sb=post_latest_reply;root_id=104035;post=104035;t=search_engine

Response From doanuts

Sorry m jus getting use to this site and m kida comfused myself.. i dont have access to an ohmeter can u use one in autozone? Sorry fer the comfusion i jus bought this car m jus tryn ta figure out what is goi. O. With it. And need to learn this site better. Thank you for your help if u have an answer to the last question ill only post on this one link. Can u delete one after youve posted it?

Response From Discretesignals

Is that what happened? You have a leaking injector on #4? Did you see if the regulator is leaking?

Is #2 cylinder flooded also?

Response From doanuts Top Rated Answer

I did test with tube from intake manifold off nothing squirted anywher from the regulator. Yes i pulled all plugs and plug 2and 4 wer wet with gas the others were dry. When i pulled all the injectors out the one for piston/plug 4 was cracked on the end. Injector 2 had a scratch idk if its a crack. So 2/4 are getting flooded 1/3 are fine and still igniting. I checked for spark from the coil pack and it was good.

Response From Discretesignals

I don't think that a cracked injector in #4 would flood out #2, so it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace them both.

In fact, if you have the money, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to replace all four injectors just in case #1 & 3 let loose later.

If the injectors were leaking fuel into the cylinders, its possible that those two cylinder could be washed out. That means they may have no compression, so you'll have to squirt a little bit of oil in those cylinders to get the compression to come back up while cranking the engine with the plugs removed, all injector connectors unplugged, and coil unplugged.

You don't want gas or spark going on while your trying to restore compression while cranking the engine.

Response From doanuts

Yes hopefully this is the only problem i had ordered some racing injectors all four

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Shane: I suggest staying OE for replacement parts or could confuse the fix - not certain but may open Pandora's box requiring other alterations to accommodate doing that. Yes it's now an old car but not old enough IMO to fool with things aftermarket, performance or other things,

T

Response From doanuts

Hey guys i have two questions..1 is when i put cold air intake what happens with the mas air flow sensor plug thats pluged into the stock intake box? What do i do with it and with it not pluged in what will it do?.....2nd i need new wheel bearings in front my car is the 1990 base model, does it have ABS? the bearings i found come together with lugnut bolt hub assembly i need to know wether my car has abs or not....thank you!!

Response From Sidom

You need the MAF sensor, the engine won't right without it....If that kit is for that model, there should be a way to mount it in to your new system. That part can't be eliminated.

For your wheel bearing, just look at the dash. There should be an ABS light that comes on for a few seconds & then goes out when the car is started..... Or you could just look at the hub assembly, see it there is a sensor with a wire going to it, also there should be an tone ring on the axle....

If you have any issues with the bearing start a new thread......

So what was the final outcome with the running problem??? Did you get it fixed??? What did you do???

Response From doanuts

Thank you. Ther was a cracked fuel injector and the wire harness for the fuel injectors was bad. As for the white smoke i had changed the oil and put the 5 litter oil change jug into the engine when the engine only takes 3.2 litters off oil. Changed oil again runs great. Still havent figured out the check engine. It blinks once then twice im taking that as a 12 but anywhere i go they cant figure out what it is.

Response From doanuts

I did the thkng and it blinked once then twiceso m guessin thats a 12 and the book at auto zone said it doesnt apply to my car

1998 Mazda 626 idles rough. How can I adjust idle speed?

Showing 2 out of 10 Posts | Show 8 Hidden Posts
Question From plsmoothy on 1998 Mazda 626 idles rough. How can I adjust idle speed?

Hi community. I drive a '98 Mazda 626LX 2.0L 4Cyl with 140,000 miles. The car idles at approximately 650 RPM. At this RPM, I get an intense vibration in the engine and throughout the car. Here's what I've done in an attempt to eliminate the problem. 1. Changed spark plugs/spark plug cables. 2.Checked engine compression... compression good. 3.Removed fuel injectors and had them ionically cleaned. 4.Checked for error codes ... none found. 5.Replaced fuel filter.

At this point I'm considering changing the motor mounts. Before I do that however, I want to increase the idle speed by 100 RPM or so. Can anybody shed some light on how to go about in doing this? Also, any other insights are greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Response From Sidom

At that mileage it is very possible it's your motor mounts. To verify this if you put a floor jack under the engine & slightly jack up engine (with a piece of wood or something so as not to damage the pan) to take take the weight off the mounts & your vibration goes away( while the engine is running), then it's the mounts for sure.....

Response From plsmoothy

Don't want to beat a dead horse here but is there absolutely no way to reprogram the computer to increase the idle speed? An increase of 100-150 rpm's seems to make all the difference in the world.

Thanks again.

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

plsmoothy; The idle spec for your car is 550-800rpm, so as Hammer stated, it is within specs. And, as he said, the idle speed is computer controlled. If the engine is running rough and is within idle specs, you have an underlying problem that is causing the roughness. Changing the motor mounts won't fix the roughness. May even make it more noticeable.
Have you had the injectors ohm checked? Have you cleaned the throttle body and IAC? Compression test? Valve clearances? So many things can contribute to this.....No easy answer.

Response From plsmoothy Top Rated Answer

I'm in the process of cleaning the throttle body and idle air control (AIC) now. I noticed there is quite a bit of a tar like substance in the intake manifold. Should I clean the intake manifold since I'm already in the vicinity?

I took the advice of Sidom and loosened up a couple of the motor mounts, put a jack under the oil pan and lifted the engine. The vibration felt pretty much the same. Does that prove that it's not necessarily the motor mounts.

In addition there is something that I forgot to include in my original post. The idle gets rougher when I turn on the Air Conditioner. The vibration gets really intense.

As always, your help is greatly appreciated.

Response From Sidom

Sounds like the intake is pretty dirty. Cleaning the throttle plate is good but most shops offer services that run cleaning solvent thru the intake & also disable the fuel system & run it thru the rail also to clean the injectors.

The method I told you about you don't loosen any of the mounts, just put a just under the pan w/wood & a couple of pumps to support the motor & run it. On the ones I've done that had bad mounts this would either eliminate the vibration or make a noticable improvement.

Now I'm assuming you've check all the mounts & none are broken. This method is only to check mounts that have hardened & are transmitting the engine vibration..

Response From Guest

Hi there,

I have a 1993 and the same problem. To adjust the idle the computer needs to be re-adjusted. Place a wire between TEN en GND inside the diagnoses connector. Adjust the idle with the flathead screw on the right top side of the t throtthle body. Rotating counterclockwise will rise the RMP. Turn the car of and remove the wire. I have tried it and the RPM are now 950 rmp but it is still a little bit rough. Also cleaned the EGR valve, clean the IAC valve, cleaned the injector etc....

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Cleaning the throttle body and idle control motor may help.

Response From Hammer Time

Loren, The idle is right where it should be. He just thinks if he runs it higher, the vibration will go away.

Response From Hammer Time

The idle for that car is entirely controlled by the computer and not adjustable in any way.

If your getting a vibration, the motor mounts will likely cure it.

Sudden loss of power after valve cover gasket replacement/intake removal.

Showing 3 out of 21 Posts | Show 18 Hidden Posts
Question From afinepoint on Sudden loss of power after valve cover gasket replacement/intake removal.

Car is a 1999 Mazda 626 V6 2.5L with 137,000 miles.

I replaced the valve cover gaskets due to excessive oil leaks - mess on engine and exhaust manifold. This required removal of the intake manifold. The engine started and car ran fine for test drive of about one mile. I returned home restated and went back out. After about two miles the rpms dropped to near zero and the engine had no power. It could not climb a mild grade. No throttle response. Had to have towed home.

TPS OK and and power check to MAF OK. The engine will start but has a very low and rough idle like there is a massive vacuum leak or it is getting minimal fuel. It will stall after a minute or so. All hose are connected and there are no cracks. Wire and connector inspection looks good. No engine check light. All lights extinguish when the engine starts.

There is fuel pressure to the injectors. Hooked up a scan tool (Actron CP9180). No codes found.

One suggestion I received it that the timing belt skipped a few teeth. I pulled back timing belt cover and ran a boroscope inside. The belt is intact and dry and I can see no sign of damage. Rotated it one full turn viewing with scope and another with unaided eye. Can't see anything problems.

It is too coincidental that it wasn't something I touched I just can't find it.

Thanks,

Reg

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

Sounds to me, that it is actually overfueling. Could be from a vacuum leak causing the computer to see a lean condition and compensating with fuel? When you mentioned intake manifold, you meant plenum?, right? If any coolant lines were breached, could have air in the cooling system which could affect the CTS reading, again causing a rich condition. If you connected the wrong vacuum line to the EGR, could be opening at the wrong time causing a massive vacuum leak.
The odds of the timing jumping during this process are slim, but if it backfired at any time, could happen in a heartbeat. Check cooling system to make sure it's full. Check CTS connection. Check vacuum source to EGR. Make sure you have no air leak between the MAF and the plenum. Make sure the MAF is plugged in. (BTDT).

Response From afinepoint


Check cooling system to make sure it's full. It is. Check CTS connection. Will do. Check vacuum source to EGR. It is good. Make sure you have no air leak between the MAF and the plenum. No leaks. Make sure the MAF is plugged in. Connected and voltage test good. (BTDT).

Response From Sidom

You're taking the right steps, double checking everything you did. If the car ran fine before & now doesn't it would seem to be in the area you worked. No SES or codes pretty much tell you all the sensors are plugged in & no wires are pinched (I'm assuming you have a SES light on with the key on engine off).

With the no SES now you are looking at mechanical, fuel, air. stuff not computer controlled. If you drove it far enough you would probably get a rich bank, lean bank, cat code, etc. But you don't want to do that.

After you've triple checked your work, I would start looking at the basics. Pull the brk booster line off while it's running, if it idles up & runs better it's getting to much gas. Put a vacuum gauge on it & check your vacuum. If its low & shaky, it's possible your T belt jumped a tooth. After its warm if the vacuum is slightly low & steady @ idle & drops to almost nothing under load you might have a restricted exhaust. You could pop an O2 out when it's bogging & see if that helps...

I still think it's is something you are overlooking when you put it back together but it sure wouldn't be the 1st time something else on a car failed right after a repair was preformed correctly..... BTDT

Response From afinepoint


Pull the brk booster line off while it's running, if it idles up & runs better it's getting to much gas. Put a vacuum gauge on it & check your vacuum. If its low & shaky, it's possible your T belt jumped a tooth. After its warm if the vacuum is slightly low & steady @ idle & drops to almost nothing under load you might have a restricted exhaust. You could pop an O2 out when it's bogging & see if that helps... Engine will no longer run. It started today ran for a few seconds stalled and won't restart. It just cranks. So I can't check these items.

I still think it's is something you are overlooking when you put it back together but it sure wouldn't be the 1st time something else on a car failed right after a repair was preformed correctly..... BTDT I dont' know about this any more. I have checked, checked and rechecked all connections. My work may have caused it but something else has failed subsequent to and outside of the gasket job. About to throw the towel in and tow it to a shop. My substitute transportation is my F350 dually diesel crewcab and she's thirsty and a handful.

Response From afinepoint

Charged battery and trudged on. Started back at basics. Fuel + air + spark + rotation = running engine.

Starting with fuel I found I had no pressure at the rails and could not hear pump running. Fuel regulator relay tested good. Loosened gasoline fitting at rails. Turned key on - no fuel. Pulled pump relay and shorted connections - fuel spray. Looks like the relay is bad?

But while shorting the connections (with fitting tightened) the engine would not start. Sort of makes sense as I had pressure before and it would not start.

Will pickup light for testing plugs cables for spark.

Reg

Response From Sidom

It's tough not being there. It really sounds like you've covered your work. I know the Mazda's are a little hard to test fuel pressure due to no port but a gauge would really help. The system will only power up for 2 sec with KOEO (key on engine off).

Going off what you saying, IF there is no fuel pressure and spark, all the grounds have been verified good (along with all the other basics). I would start looking at the Main relay & wiring. The Main feeds the control side of the fuel pump relay along with other systems.... You might want to get a good wiring diagram. Maybe Tom, Loren or Hammer could post one for ya....

But before you jump into this, here is the most important step........

Take a break....Walk away for a day or two... Sometimes when you get caught up in a problem child like this it is very easy to overlook something simple due to tunnel vision... Don't even think about this POS (it's a POS cuz of the problem right now...once you get it handled then it'll be a nice ride again) come back in a day or two with a clear mind & you nail it right off the bat.....

Response From afinepoint

Thanks I appreciate the kind words.

I got another relay from the junkyard to use for testing purposes. Better than buying from the dealer. $2.75 vs $27.00.

After doing a dry run on the junkyard's I tested mine. Guess what mine is good. After a "Look at the sky, scratch head, ask WTF" moment I checked the fuse box side connectors and found an open in the ground circuit for the relay. Control circuit not pump circuit.

I don't know where the box wire reaches ground but if it joins others and thus there is a common ground then that may explain a lot. Something broke or vibrated loose.

More to come.

Reg

Response From afinepoint

Need to find what makes turns on the fuel pump. One person responded that the PCM must see a spark signal to allow fuel. Where do I test for this signal? The spark plug wires themselves?


Each time I try to start the engine it sounds worst than before. It actually did a mild backfire yesterday.

Reg

Response From Hammer Time

The trigger ground is how the computer controls the relay. It's simply not turning it on. This can be for any number of reasons. See if you have lost spark also. Check the power feed to the injectors from the ASD relay and see if first, it powers for 2 seconds with key on and then comes back on when cranking. It's common for these to lose a crank sensor and that will shut everything down.

Response From afinepoint

She got a spark and power to the injectors. Got a puff of smoke from below the MAF area on first start this morning and no smoke on second cranking.

I've run out of time on this one. She's being towed in today. Today's my last day off this week then I work 8 (4 12 hour and 4 8 hour days) with only one off in between.

Thanks for all the help. I really appreciated the assistance. Will post what the garage finds.

Moving on to my F350 with oscillating voltage, the 911's O2 sensor installation, shift bushing replacement and tune up and the wife's Camry with a host of needs. Actually the Camry's being replaced. I'm only one man.

Reg

Response From afinepoint

Problem found.

The good news: the problem was found and equally important it has nothing to do with my work.

The bad news: It was the last place the garage looked and the last place I was starting to look before throwing in the towel.

Where you ask? For those who mentioned timing pat yourselves on the back. The timing was off five teeth.

The belt had not skipped because of oil on it but because the tensioner has failed. I incorrectly believed that a skipped belt would show damage. It won't if there's no tension on it.

This will go down as the most expensive timing belt change for a non exotic car. The final bill? I can't bring myself to post it. Lets just say that for five times that I could buy another 626.

The moral of the story: approach a new problem as just that - new. The valve cover job became a distraction for a completely separate failure. The engine started and ran properly after my work thus that repair was done correctly. Things can break at any time whether thousands of miles or years after the last repair or the next minute and 100 feet out of the driveway. The last is so true. I did some work once on an Explorer I once owned. Afterward I went to start the engine and the starter died. Completely separate but we would all likely blame a repair shop had they done the former work. The shop manager for the garage doing work on the 626 says it happens all the time.

I learned something here about troubleshooting and perseverance. I hope there is something here for others to take away as well.

Thanks to all.

Reg

Response From Sidom

Thanks for coming back & posting the fix......

Yes it's very easy to get "tunnel vision" on a certain area, especially right after a repair.. and a lot of the time, that is the area you need to be.... an old saying " A new problem??? Show me the last area to be worked on and that's where the new problem will be" It's unfortunate you ran out of time and I know you are hatin hindsight at this point.....


But I will say, good job on sticking with it for as long as you did and if you had a little more time you would've got there. I can tell from your posts that you have better than average repair & daig skills (probably better than some of the guys I work with ), so thats a leg up over alot of people. Everyone has had a problem child like this & if they are tellin ya the haven't, then either they're lying or just working on gravy stuff & walking the hard diags....Some days you get the bear & other days the bear gets you....


It sux but at least you were able to take some important things away from this, so I won't call it a loss but a wash.

Good luck with the rest of your projects & don't be a stranger.........

Response From afinepoint

Went to start engine today and battery is discharged. Looks like I also have a ground which might be (part of) the problem.

Response From Guest

The entire intake manifold had to be removed to access the rear valve cover. Several hoses and sensors unplugged. I am sure I have reconnected all properly but . . .

What tells me I did is that the engine started and ran normally for a good distance.

No sound of air leakage. The only breach I have found is a large crack in the intake tube upstream of the MAF.

Will look at areas you mentioned. No backfiring occurred. Also plan to unplug and replug sensors in case of bad connection however again scanner saw nothing.

Thanks for reply.

Reg

Response From Loren Champlain Sr

In addition to Sidom and Hammer's replies, a vacuum leak can be masked while the engine is warming up as it is running rich. As the engine warms, the fuel is commanded leaner. I still don't understand why the intake manifold was removed? The plenum is bolted to the intake manifold. It should have been the only thing you had to remove? I think some manufacturers call it a purge tank?

Response From Guest Top Rated Answer

I still don't understand why the intake manifold was removed? The plenum is bolted to the intake manifold. It should have been the only thing you had to remove? I think some manufacturers call it a purge tank?

The manifold was removed per Haynes instructions. It is impossible to remove the rear valve cover with it in place.

Response From afinepoint

All of the above "Guests" are me. Thought I was logged in.

I think we are still missing a valid point. Why did the engine start and run well for miles to begin with? Well after it had warmed. What sensor comes into play after the engine is hot?

Reg

Response From Hammer Time


The only breach I have found is a large crack in the intake tube upstream of the MAF.

If by "upstream" you mean between the sensor and the throttle body, then that could definitely be your problem. You can't have any unmetered air coming in, in that area or you will have a lean mixture.

Response From Guest


The only breach I have found is a large crack in the intake tube upstream of the MAF.

If by "upstream" you mean between the sensor and the throttle body, then that could definitely be your problem. You can't have any unmetered air coming in, in that area or you will have a lean mixture.


No between the MAF and atmosphere. There are no other sensors upstream of the crack.

Reg

Response From Sidom

Also one thing you can check is the ground straps. I believe there are 2 or 3 grounds on the back side of the plenum, back by the firewall. Look back there & make sure they all got bolted back on to the plenum.