Shop Jeep Intake Manifolds

when I stop at a light or put car into gear the rpms will drop all the way down to like 200 from 1000 and shake the car and it feels like it is going to die. this lasts like 2-3 seconds then it goes back to normal(1000) sometimes it will do it 3 or 4 times in a row sometimes once sometimes not at all. only happens when in first gear.

There are some repair products to patch them that I find don't last. Just search out the price of a new one and add an uncertain (to me) amount of time to replace it. If bolts and connection to pipe don't behave it can be labor intensive.

Not really sure that would cause the fairly wild swing in RPMs by itself. It may have burned something that counts or is confusing an o2 sensor - not sure?? An intake manifold or vacuum line leak to it. Intake manifold vacuum is a good measure of the load on the engine and other items are adjusted based on engine load which could cause your symptoms. Intake manifold leaks also don't usually impair the feel or operation when under part or full load/demand on the engine unless they are real bad,

T

I HAVE 1978 JEEP WITH A INLINE 6CYL IT RUNS BUT IT STALS WITHOUT WARNING IT RUNS AT AN IDLE BUT IT WILL BE RUNNING GOOD THEN STALL OR RUN ERATINC LIKE IDLING DOWN THEN MISSING TIMMING SEEMS RIGHT PLUGS LOOK FOULED ALSO IT WILL RUN GOOD FOR A WHILE THEN JST STALL SOMTIMES IT IS ERRATIC SO I DID A COMPRESSION CK I FIRST WARMED THE MOTOR UP THEN I TOOK ALL THE PLUGS OUT STARTING FROM THE FRONT OF THE JEEP WORKING MY WAY BACK TOWARDS THE DRIVER THE FIRST READING WAS 170 THEN 175 THEN 190 THEN 177 THEN 182 THEN 170 THIS IS NOT THE FIRING ORDER BUT FROM THE FRONT OF THE JEEP BACK I DID THIS WITH THE THROTTLE ALL THE WAY DOWN CK IT TWICE AND GOT THE SAME READING COULD THER BE CARBON BUILDUP OR IS IT A CARB PROBLEM I TRY ADJUSTING THE CARB ENDLESLY AND TIMMING TO NO AVAIL ALSO I KEEP ON THE LOOKOUT FOR A VACUME LEAK CANT FIND ONE WHAT WOULD CAUSE THE THIRD CYL TO BE AT 190 AND THE 5TH TO BE AT 182 ENGINE IS VERY UNRELIABLE PLEASE ANY INFO WOULD HELP THANKS TED AND IS THIS SPREAD BIG ENOUGH TO MAKE IT RUN BAD

These had tons of troubles with intake manifold to head sealing and carb problems common. Carbon build up could account for high compression which with high load will knock.

Spray all around carb base and intake manifold for vacuum leaks. Generally when running ok - a good hwy run will clear out carbon build up,

T

Hey Guys,I'm having a problem with my mail jeep stalling out.It has a straight 6, carb.,and lousy points.It will idle in park just fine and stall out at times while delivering from box to box and then clear up and run fine.I also noticed if I hop back in the seat and shake the cab it seems like it's missing.I've tried adjusting the idle,fuel mixture,points and timing.I'm loosing my patience.What do think it might be? THANKS!!!!

Some common stuff was a loose carb or intake manifold leaks. The points still have to be right and you can test the distributor's bearings by using a dwell tach and rev the engine. Dwell should not move more than five degrees or it could be the problem. That would be the distributor bearings. Distributors can be rebuilt and new points set exactly by some old time rebuilders. The condenser should go too.

Gray hair can pay off!! T

My cj5 has been sitting for a few years - started right up after replacing motor mounts and putting some new body parts on - was running fone for the last few weeks short trips around the block - today suddenly started to run rough, and die at idle. Will start right up if I punp the gas pedal but will not idel and smokes alot when revving- any advice??

To add: 258 six - right? Wild problems with intake manifold and at the age now think sunken floats in carb. Just my 2 cents which lateley has only been worth that

More: Once fouled up plugs must be made to work and eventually replaced or screws up diagnosing it...........

Hello, I need some help please. I have a 1972 Jeep CJ6 304 V8. I have replaced the thermostat and water pump and I am still having an overheating issue. It is really weird too, one side (passenger) of the engine gets blazing hot to the touch and the other does not heat up hardly at all....Any ideas what's going on here? Thank you

'72 - Whooo doggie! V8 - that should be an International Harvester engine - maybe. Lot's in the vintage used a "heat" riser on passenger's side exhaust manifolt to shoot hot exhaust from that side, thru intake manifold to driver's side to warm up the engine faster from cold. Might be an external weight and heat sensitive spring you can see. I doulbt that year it was vacuum motor operated - just weight and a clock type spring.

If you see something like that when cold try turning it. It's like a choke plate in there and the stick hard sometimes. It's basically ok to just leave those locked open but it take a bit longer to warm up and might not run as well cold.

Is that was is there on this?

T