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2008 Isuzu Ascender Engine Intake Manifold - Upper 6 Cyl 4.2L Dorman

P311-1FA4370    615-568  New


In Stock & Ready to Ship
Dorman Engine Intake Manifold  Upper
  • ; 1 Piece
Brand: Dorman
Position: Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Isuzu Ascender Upper L 6 Cyl 4.2L 256 -
ACDelco Engine Intake Manifold
Brand: ACDelco
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Engine Designation Engine VIN Engine
2007 - Isuzu i370 LLR E 5 Cyl 3.7L

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1994 Isuzu Box Truck, Vacuum Issue

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From trathson on 1994 Isuzu Box Truck, Vacuum Issue

I have a 1994 Isuzu box truck, and the vacuum light has started coming on whenever I let off the gas, and the vacuum itself quits working after the first second or two of when the brakes are applied. Resulting in the driver having to ram their foot into the brake pedal to keep the truck stopped.

If the truck is switched to neutral, the problem goes away entirely and the brakes function perfectly with no vacuum light alarm.

Does this sound like the vacuum pump to you guys, or not really?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

? A "box" truck? Tell me/us, does this have a belt driven vacuum source or use intake manifold vacuum? IDK which.

Duh - no vacuum for vacuum boosted brakes means little braking help no matter how vacuum is had for the booster or booster itself?


Response From trathson

Ok, please forgive my ignorance, I'm not a mechanic. I can just fix things if pointed in the right direction.

I'm not sure if its intake or belt, is there a way I can find out? Here are some pictures of the problem in question, would some experienced eyes be able to point out to me the vacuum... manifold? Or whatever it is called.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

OK - Both pics don't show what I was looking for. Only an alternator in one and an idler pulley in another. I'm really looking for what is behind the master cylinder for a booster and just look for a hose on any booster and where it goes.

Some (doubt this vehicle but possible) will use PS pump fluid pressure called "hydro-boost" still again a unit behind master cylinder with they PS hoses going to it.

OK - So you don't know what system it is and can come and go as said. All types could. Low PS fluid would almost always effect PS as well but make sure it's filled properly just anyway.

Others use a vacuum hose to a, well, large Whoopie Cushion like booster behind the master cylinder. That hose must be good right from there to intake (can get oily on some and fail there) or to a vacuum pump I didn't see but could be hiding. Issue would probably be loose belt if it does do it that way.

Vacuum boosted also uses a check valve and rubber grommet at the booster.

Any can fail in assorted ways. If a hose get the right rated hose frequently by the foot.

Pulling the check valve out booster should go "whoosh" meaning it's holding vacuum. Grommet may fail just taking check valve out so have grommet (somewhat universal) at the ready if you try that.

It would be a lot easier to know what system this is to ask you to target the problem area without writing a whole repair manual for all types possible,


SingleMom's question about gaskets

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From Tess on SingleMom's question about gaskets

I recently read a reliability review on MSN on my

2004 Isuzu Rodeo
50k miles

Which states significant problems with:

Occasional problems on this vehicle are failure of the Intake Manifold Gaskets, and the Engine Short Block. Failure of the Intake Manifold Gaskets may cause a rough idle or the Check Engine Light to illuminate. Lack of maintenance can cause the pistons rings to stick resulting in excessive engine oil usage. This engine oil usage can lead to piston rod bearing failure resulting in replacement of the Short Block.

My question is, how do I know when to change the gaskets before I have a problem with the short block? Would you suggest getting a more reliable vehicle if this make and model has this type of problem?

Response From way2old Top Rated Answer

If you read your quote again, you will see that most of the problems are concerning lack of preventative maintenance. If you take care of youe vehicle regularly, it will more than likely serve you well. As far as the intake gaskets, there is really no way to tell when one is going to fail. You can replace them as a preventative measure, but that soes not mean they will not leak again in the future. Good luck and take care of the car.

Replacing Fuel Inj Pressure Regulator

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Fixit53 on Replacing Fuel Inj Pressure Regulator

I have a 1998 Isuzu Hombre pickup. 2.2L 4 cyl eng with automatic tranny. It has 114000 miles, 14k of these on a new transmission. Was misfiring and running very rough and we replaced a clogged catalytic convertor. Ran fine for a week, now same roughness - diagnosis by repair shop says 80# pressure from fuel pump and needs regulator.

Is 80# in the acceptable range? Is there a fuel injector regulator for each cylinder or one for the system? How do I install the regulator?


Response From Sidom

That pressure is too high and could be the cause of your 1st cat going out. Spec are 41 to 47 psi regulated pressure.

The regulator bolts on to the end of the fuel rail and is fairly easy to replace. One thing to double check is the return lines to make sure it isn't blocked or kinked, that to will give you very high fuel pressure....

Response From Fixit53 Top Rated Answer

Is the fuel rail separate from the upper and lower intake manifold? Should the regulator replacement take care of the pressure so that a fuel pump doesn't need replaced at this time?

Response From Sidom

The rail is separate from the manifold but the upper one may have to be removed to access it.

As far as the fuel pump goes, having to put out that type of pressure has been twice as hard on it, similar to running around with a restricted fuel filter so only time will tell if this has taken a toll on it..........

Response From Fixit53

Thanks!! I'll give it a shot. I've replaced a bunch of the little stuff like alternator, belts, battery that I don't want to part it out yet! Thanks,again!

Response From Fixit53

Thanks for all of your advice! With three boys and all their cars and my full time job, I just got it fixed. The regulator went in without removing the upper manifold. It was at the firewall side of the rail and I was able to reach it without too much trouble. Thanks, again!!

2002 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2 v6 has no spark at plugs

Showing 5 out of 5 Posts
Question From JonCarn on 2002 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2 v6 has no spark at plugs

I just swapped in a 2001 3.2 v6 into my 2002 Rodeo and do not have any spark at the plugs. I got a complete salvage engine that ran and I did have to swap out the wiring harness, the 2001 harness did not have any O2 connectors on the trans portion of the harness. Everything else was the same. I have 5 volts on the white wire at the crank position sensor and I even made a jumper connector from the ECM to the crank sensor to see if I had a bad wire, but nothing. I checked the part numbers for the crank sensor online and the 2001 is different from the 2002, but the crankshafts are the same.
I also did not have a connector on either harness for a cam sensor that my book says is under the intake manifold on the driver side rear side of head.
Any help would be greatly appreciated

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Why didn't you install the correct year engine in this?

They did make changes in different years, but I personally don't know exactly what they are. The tone ring on the crankshaft changed after 98 and there could have been another change in 2002. Did you compare the tone rings on the crankshaft to be sure they matched? If you don't have the cam sensor plugged in, it probably won't run.

Now you probably have a mismatch of things and the PCM for the 2002 is confused. I think the fix is to install the correct year engine and put the original harness back in.

Response From JonCarn

The salvage yard said it was a direct swap. I asked for 2002 engine. The cranks are the same but I am concerned since the crank position sensor is different between the 01 and 02.
I am also confused about the cam sensor because neither wiring harness has a connector under the intake.
I think I will just pull it back out and return it for an 02 engine

Response From JonCarn

Just a follow up. Got the engine running, problem was a bad ignition module. I apparently damaged it with the engine lift.
Just to pass some info along, the 2000-2002 3.2 v6 engines are direct swaps, even though some part numbers may be different. Also, starting in 2000 Isuzu dropped the cam position sensor and went with a different system to monitor cam position.
I also figured out that I could put the assembled engine/trans/transfer case in by unbolting the body from the frame and jacking the body up about 3 inches. This was much easier than putting them in separately.

Response From nickwarner

Glad to hear it worked out for you and you're back on the road. Going to lock the thread now to keep spammers and such out. It can be reopened at any time for you by sending a PM to any moderator.

Passport vacuum leak

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From bearparkmn on Passport vacuum leak

I have a 1999 Honda Passport with 166,000 miles. I had the lower intake manifold gaskets replaced through an independent garage in 11/05 due to vacuum leak codes PO 171 and 174. Then, the same thing happened in 11/05 and both lower intake gaskets were replaced again. I just had my car in for an oil change at Midas and asked them to check the recently new check engine lite. The same codes came up and they said it was a vacuum leak intake problem. Why are the gaskets cracking so often? Are their other things that were overlooked the first time? Help please.

Response From dave284

Just a thought....the intake might need to be resurfaced....when it was fixed the first time was the codes erased?...and I would take it back to the place where the job was done if it hadn't been to you need to check all vacuum connections on the could set off those same codes too.

Response From bearparkmn

They erase the codes each time. The lower manifold intake gaskets replaced in 03, 05, 07 and now similar diagnosis. I heard that the Passports have this problem but this often? The car works fine after the gaskets are replaced so any vacuum issues must be fixed. Just wondering why the gaskets crack so often.

Response From Double J

Just a thought..

All three times at an independent shop...

Incorrectly torqued?
Quality of aftermarket gaskets?

Response From bearparkmn Top Rated Answer

Read on one of the posts that the torque specs were revamped to 13 lb. ft. for the 98-03 Isuzu with 3.2 L engine. That is what my Passport 4wd, EX is, I believe. This is all foreign to me, but if this is correct, I will give it to the mechanic as a heads up. They are probably getting the parts from a local parts chain. Is that what you mean by after market? Would the wrong torque make them fail more often? All three times in an independent garage. Don't have any mechanic friends here so thanks for all the advice.

Response From Double J

Yes...local parts chain(s)= aftermarket..
Anything not supplied by the manufacturer.

If the torque specs are incorrect,it could cause premature failure.

The intake manifold bolts must be tightened to a specific torque as specified by the manufacturer and must be tightened in a certain sequence...If this is not performed correctly,the gaskets will fail.

Maybe he isn't aware of the revised torque specs....
Even tho this is not the norm,some guys dont use a torque wrench to properly torque the bolts..most do ...

Same garage every time?
Maybe change garages and/or suggest using Dealer/manufacturer (OEM) parts.
Also,if all else fails,contact manufacturer customer service and see if there is a known concern with these/any recalls/special policies..etc.