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Edelbrock
Qty:
$495.44
Edelbrock Engine Intake Manifold
  • HONDA B16A; TYPE R VICTOR X RACING INTAKE MANIFOLD
  • ; 7000-10000rpm; High Performance; Four Additional Bosses For Nitrous Or Added Fuel Injectors For Race Use Only
  • Victor Series X Intake Manifold
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cylinder Head Type: Standard
    • Emission: Without Egr
    • Engine Make/Size: Honda/acura B16a/b18c-5
    • Number of Carbs: One
    • Position: N/a
    • RPM Range: 7000-13000
    • Usage: Racing
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Lead; Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information; Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
  • Optimized for maximum power from 7,000 to 10,000 RPM, the Victor X manifold is designed for turbo and all-motor applications. Engineered for high performance, this manifold has four additional bosses for nitrous or added fuel injectors.
Brand: Edelbrock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
1996 - Honda Civic del Sol VTEC L 4 Cyl 1.6L - 1595
Edelbrock
Qty:
$459.77
Edelbrock Engine Intake Manifold
  • PERFORMER X 92-95 CIVIC MANIFOLD; D16Z6
  • ; Larger Than Stock Plenum Vol.; 9 in. Runner Length; 4500-8200 rpm
  • Performer X Series Intake Manifold
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cylinder Head Type: Standard
    • Emission: Without Egr
    • Engine Make/Size: Honda/acura D16z6
    • Number of Carbs: None; For Fuel Injection
    • Position: N/a
    • RPM Range: 4500-8500
    • Usage: Racing
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Warning: This Product Can Expose You To Lead; Which Is Known To The State Of California To Cause Cancer Or Birth Defects Or Other Reproductive Harm. For More Information; Visit Www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
  • The Performer X intake manifolds for Acura and Hondas are engineered for street/strip applications where peak torque and horsepower gains are realized between 4500-8200 RPM.
Brand: Edelbrock
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Submodel Block Engine CID CC
1993 - Honda Civic EX L 4 Cyl 1.6L 98 1588

Latest Honda Repair and Intake Manifold Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

1997 honda accord

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From lora77357 on 1997 honda accord

i have an 1997 honda accord. 2.2litr the check engine light stays on... the computer is saying that is is running lean.. what do i need to do to correct this? thanks lora

Response From Sidom Top Rated Answer

There is a wide variety of things that can cause this code. The simplest things to check for would be false air or vacuum leak. Just take a look at the air intake tube from the air cleaner to throttle body & make sure it's not loose & all hoses are attached to it. You can listen for a hissing noise coming from the intake manifold area which would indicate a vacuum leak but if there was a leak you would usually notice a running problem associated with the leak.

Response From DanD

More or less the same answer as Sidom’s

There are many things that can set off a lean code; defective oxygen sensor, vacuum leak(s), low fuel pressure, dirty injectors, defective injector(s) and the list goes on and on.
Tests on all of these things need to be performed; as to determine what the ROOT cause for the code to set.
There are a lot of people that may just replace the O2 sensor in the hope that, that was the problem. I’ve also seen a number of people that have perfectly good sensors hanging from their mirror as decoration because it didn’t fix the problem.
So I guess I’m saying take the car in and have it diagnosed by someone, you feel knows how to perform the required tests. After that you can take the car home and do the repair yourself? That’s if you would even want too; once you find out what the job entails?

Dan.

Engine sputters and exhaust smells of sulfer

Showing 2 out of 6 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From tilopa on Engine sputters and exhaust smells of sulfer

95 Honda Accord, 4 Cyl 2.2, 131K miles. My car started running rough (sputtering), if feels as if it is running out of gas, and the exhaust smells funny (a bit like sulfer). The engine sputter is worse when trying to go up hill. I changed the spark plugs about 3 months ago because it was idleing rough and that fixed that issue.

Can anyone point me in the right direction as to what the issue is.

Thanks.

Response From Mr.scotty

Any check or service engine soon light on?
I would still get it scanned for any stored codes to be safe, some auto parts stores might be able to scan it for codes.

Response From tilopa


Sorry, forgot to mention there are no check engine lights on. What do you mean "stored codes", so a code might be triggered but it is not displaying via the CEL?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

How are the plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor? Those item do wear out and can cause secondary ignition problems that lead to misfiring under load. When you pull your wire's boots inspect the plug wells and boots for engine oil contamination. If there is oil in the plug wells, change the valve cover gasket, tube seals, and grommets. Also inspect your distributor for oil contamination inside. If there is engine oil inside the distributor, the distributor needs replaced.

Since you may have the valve cover off, it would be a good time to do valve lash adjustments. As the valve train components wear the lash increases and causes lower intake manifold vacuum. Honda uses speed density fuel injection, so good intake manifold vacuum is crucial to engine performance.

Response From tilopa

It was in fact the connection of 2 wires at the distributor cap, they were totally corroded, so I must have been running on 2 cylinders. I changed the wires, cap, and rotor. Does it matter the orientation of the rotor when you put the cap on, that does not effect timing right? Also, what causes the funny exhaust smell if only 2 cylinders are firing properly?
Thanks all for your help.

Response From Hammer Time

It sounds to me like you have a rich issue going on for some reason. That would be what damaged the plugs and replacing them gives you a temporary reprieve.

You need to look for all possible causes of over rich mixture and/or EGR operation
This engine uses a MAP sensor instead of MAF. You need to check that and it's vacuum supply. Check the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line for any fuel in it.

1988 Honda Accord Idle Problem...

Showing 2 out of 5 Posts | Show 3 Hidden Posts
Question From dusabrive on 1988 Honda Accord Idle Problem...

I own a 1988 Honda Accord LX with a carburetor; When I start the car, it races at @2200 rpm but when the engine is finally warm the idle drops like a rock to just above zero; It runs at that level and doesn't recover. Why won't my engine idle between 900-1,000 rpm?

Thank you.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Check for vacuum leaks first and clean carb inside and out with spray carb cleaner. You may need to find someone good at these carbs now a lost art and 26 years old lots could be on the list causing this. Start with what I suggested and note anything that doesn't look right or broken,


T

Response From dusabrive

Tom,

I've checked for leaks and the carburetor was rebuilt 5 years ago.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

The problem is consistent with the normal rich mix when cold getting air in thru a leak anywhere. Carb, vac hoses, intake anything and gasket, diaphragms, brake booster or anything that uses constant intake manifold vacuum. Still has to be ruled out if nothing else.


Carb redo 5 years ago doesn't mean it's still perfect but could be? Gotta start looking someplace and I think vacuum leaking is high on the list to begin with,


T

Response From dusabrive

Thanks for the help; I'll re-check for any vacuum leaks.

1990 Honda Accord Transmission (oh crap!)

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From Bear505 on 1990 Honda Accord Transmission (oh crap!)

Ok, this one I can't figure out. Just got the car for my daughter, it seems to run fine, accelerates well, but when it goes to shift into 3rd, you have to let off of the gas to get it to shift. I recently replaced both CV joints, and emptied and replaced the fluid. The levels are correct. Are we looking at something fairly simple, or should I start brushin' up on my rebuilding skills?

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Hang in there! I couldn't every car ever built but I'll bet there is a problem with a vacuum hose or sensor which would be on the intake manifold. The MAP -- manifold actual pressure -- which is smart ass for vacuum and tells the trans when to shift along with other info.

Look around for anything that may be disconnected from any prior work, T

Response From Bear505

New development... My daughter reports to me that there is a light on the dashboard... ok let me back up. This transmission has a normal/sport switch on the shifter. When you push on the button, a light on the dash lights up with "S". Recently, this light has started blinking. The owners manual states "If the light blinks there MAY be a problem with the transmission." So, the light is blinking, and right before the light blinks, the speedometer drops to zero. After the light blinks a few times, the speedometer starts working again.

How hard is this going to be to find, and what's it gonna cost me?...LOL

Response From steve01832

If you are losing the speedo you may have a faulty vehicle speed sensor (VSS). This not only runs the speedo but tells the PCM the vehicle speed. If the computer can't see vehicle speed, it will not shift the trans. properly. Unplug the speed sensor and turn the key on engine off. Have an assistant sit in the drivers seat and watch the speedo. You jump the 2 wires of the VSS connector with a paperclip quickly. As you make and break the circuit with the paperclip, if the speedo starts to deflect, replace the vehicle speed sensor.

Steve

Response From Bear505

Thanks Steve, that makes complete sense.... Now.. I hate to be a bother.. but could you possibly tell me where it might be?... and maybe a description of what it looks like?.. the Haynes manual, it it's famous "Pat" answer for anything transmission, pretty much tells me to "have it seen by a reputable service specialist", and the Autozone website doesn't have the location of the part online....

Response From Bear505

Ok, I replaced the Speed Sensor, and it's still doing the same thing. The speedometer still intermittenly stops working, and the "S" light on the Dash still blinks.... The car does shift better but it looks like (by the signals and alerts) that nothing changed.. What else could be causing this?

Thanks

Response From Bear505

bump... still need some help on this...

Passport vacuum leak

Showing 5 out of 6 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From bearparkmn on Passport vacuum leak

I have a 1999 Honda Passport with 166,000 miles. I had the lower intake manifold gaskets replaced through an independent garage in 11/05 due to vacuum leak codes PO 171 and 174. Then, the same thing happened in 11/05 and both lower intake gaskets were replaced again. I just had my car in for an oil change at Midas and asked them to check the recently new check engine lite. The same codes came up and they said it was a vacuum leak intake problem. Why are the gaskets cracking so often? Are their other things that were overlooked the first time? Help please.

Response From dave284 Top Rated Answer

Just a thought....the intake might need to be resurfaced....when it was fixed the first time was the codes erased?...and I would take it back to the place where the job was done if it hadn't been to long...plus you need to check all vacuum connections on the intake...it could set off those same codes too.

Response From bearparkmn

They erase the codes each time. The lower manifold intake gaskets replaced in 03, 05, 07 and now similar diagnosis. I heard that the Passports have this problem but this often? The car works fine after the gaskets are replaced so any vacuum issues must be fixed. Just wondering why the gaskets crack so often.

Response From Double J

Just a thought..

All three times at an independent shop...

Incorrectly torqued?
Quality of aftermarket gaskets?

Response From bearparkmn

Read on one of the posts that the torque specs were revamped to 13 lb. ft. for the 98-03 Isuzu with 3.2 L engine. That is what my Passport 4wd, EX is, I believe. This is all foreign to me, but if this is correct, I will give it to the mechanic as a heads up. They are probably getting the parts from a local parts chain. Is that what you mean by after market? Would the wrong torque make them fail more often? All three times in an independent garage. Don't have any mechanic friends here so thanks for all the advice.

Response From Double J

Yes...local parts chain(s)= aftermarket..
Anything not supplied by the manufacturer.

If the torque specs are incorrect,it could cause premature failure.

The intake manifold bolts must be tightened to a specific torque as specified by the manufacturer and must be tightened in a certain sequence...If this is not performed correctly,the gaskets will fail.

Maybe he isn't aware of the revised torque specs....
Even tho this is not the norm,some guys dont use a torque wrench to properly torque the bolts..most do ...

Same garage every time?
Maybe change garages and/or suggest using Dealer/manufacturer (OEM) parts.
Also,if all else fails,contact manufacturer customer service and see if there is a known concern with these/any recalls/special policies..etc.

Jim