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Dorman
2000 Chrysler Cirrus Engine Intake Manifold - Upper 4 Cyl 2.0L Dorman

P311-14E9237    615-400  New

4856614AB

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$125.58
Dorman Engine Intake Manifold  Upper
Brand: Dorman
Position: Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Chrysler Cirrus Upper L 4 Cyl 2.0L 122 1996
Dorman
2008 Chrysler Aspen Engine Intake Manifold - Upper 8 Cyl 5.7L Dorman

P311-5968C67    615-523  New

5127193AD , 5175896AB

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$357.95
Dorman Engine Intake Manifold  Upper
Brand: Dorman
Position: Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2008 - Chrysler Aspen Upper V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -
Dorman
2006 Chrysler 300 Engine Intake Manifold - Upper 8 Cyl 5.7L Dorman

P311-1C0DC41    615-524  New

4591846AE , 4591846AH

Qty:
In Stock & Ready to Ship
$313.95
Dorman Engine Intake Manifold  Upper
Brand: Dorman
Position: Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Chrysler 300 Upper V 8 Cyl 5.7L 345 -

Latest Car Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY-PLEASE HELP QUICKLY!!!

Showing 9 out of 9 Posts
Question From szamocka on CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY-PLEASE HELP QUICKLY!!!

HI! I HAVE A 1998 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY. I JUST GOT DONE CHANGING THE SPARK PLUGS IN MY 98 CHRYSLER MINI VAN,3.8 ,I HAD TO TAKE OFF THE INTAKE MANIFOLDS ETC! IT'S ALL BACK NOW BUT IT IS IN FAST IDOL! OR STUCK IN FULL THROTOL!!?? WHAT IS GOIN ON? i rechecked everithing !!" PLEASE HELP!!!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Did you replace manifold gaskets? If no pinched wiring seems like a vacuum leak so far or maybe if torquing manifold(s) etc., broke/cracked something??

T

Response From szamocka

HI! AND THANKS FOR RESPONDING! I HAD RETITENED ALL THE BOLTS AND IT HELPED! BUT I THINK IT STILL IDOLS TO FAST! ITS OK IN D, BUT IN PARK IT IDOLS OVER 1200 RPM! AND AS IT WORMS UP EVEN FASTER! I PUT NEW GASKETS AND DID NOT USED ANY SILICON,BUT WAS ONE IN THE PACKAGE! I WAS TOLD NOT TO USE IT?? ON THE INTAKE!? IS THERE WAY TO SET THE IDOL SPEED LOWER? SINCE I PUT NEW WIRES AND PLUGS IT RUNS BETTER! IT WAS NEVER CHANGED! WHAT IS NORMAL?ALSO I DID NOT WANT TO TORQUET TO MUCH!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Many parts of things especially engine you need to tight things in order by specified torque. If not done that way can be trouble especially on engines using alloy/aluminum parts!

The manifold gaskets may or may not be interchangeable side to side/front and rear. Plain don't know for this car but if so problems are near certain. New gaskets should have said or included any sealer/silicone if needed,

T

Response From autotecha

TOM, I'm glad you said sequence ( I meant to say that with using a torque wrench....)

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks for clarifying. In sequence using torque wrench is much better than saying in order. Old all cast iron you could get away with murder but sure wouldn't trust the aluminum/alloys - engine, pumps, wheels and all!

T

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Don't use silicone on the upper intake plenum. Silicone will kill an O2 sensor faster than you can say, "Opps did I do that?" Only time you use gasket maker, which is O2 sensor safe, on one of those is when you are doing lower intake gaskets. You use a little bit of gasket maker on the china walls in the corners.

Don't adjust the throttle cam stop to lower idle speed. If you have a high idle, you have done something wrong and you need to figure it out instead of compromising for it by changing something that isn't intended to be messed with.

Response From samg.

Did you tweak your throttle cable?

Response From autotecha

X2 Like he said it sounds like a vaccuum leak. Do you have a torque wrench to torque it down?

Intake manifold

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From jkwilliams on Intake manifold

The intake manifolld on a chrysler 1996 2.5 has an "L" fitting on the drivers side in the back.
The reair manual only show one hose connection to the power brake booster.
What hoses go on that fitting ? Side and bottom.

Response From autojoe Top Rated Answer

if you have 2 vacuum lines at brake booster one would go to the vehicle speed control and other would go to the intake manifold fitting where there would be a vacuum line that goes to the egr solenoid.that L fitting would have one line that goes to the brake booster and one line that goes to the egr solenoid.do you have the vacuum line that attaches to the egr solenoid attached to anything now?do you have a veci label in the engine compartment that shows where all vacuum lines go to?

1996 Sebring Conv leaks antifreeze

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From gemmons1 on 1996 Sebring Conv leaks antifreeze

I have a 1996 Chrysler Sebrig Convertible JXI. It has the 2.5 6cyl and 170,000 miles and has been leaking antifreeze for several months. I put about a quart in every couple of days. It never overheated, but I would lose heat in the car. There was always pressure in the coolant system if I tried to open the cap when it was hot. I babied it along until warmer weather. I replaced the t-stat. I was told by a garage that it was probably the head gasket. I replaced them on a 1993 Town & country so I thought I'd do this one. I have it torn down and have removed the intake manifold. The heads are still on. There is antifreeze all along the block where the intake manifold was but NO indication of a break in either head gasket to explain this. Also there are puddles of antifreeze on top of the transmission, below the distributor. Any suggestions. I don't want to remove the heads if they're not the problem. Thanks, Greg

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hold off on the head gasket since you see evidence on trans - you said.

I think there's a pipe/hose that traverses the engine from one end (side) to the other that could be the issue. Pressure test it - get the dental mirrors out and find out where. I'll bet it's just a simple leak which still could be a pain but not the head gaskets quite yet,

T

Response From gemmons1

There is a hose that runs along the same path that goes to the overflow canister. It "appears" to be ok. There are no cracks or visible holes. I'll get a new one anyway. I'm going to get an inspection mirror to look under the water pump before taking it off. I'll let you know what I find. There is a thin black plastic tube that runs from the intake to the egr valve that appears to be broken. Would that cause it to not hold idle at times? Can I replace it with rubber hose or should I get the part from the dealer? Thanks, Greg

Response From Tom Greenleaf

I haven't seen this with my own eyes on one yet but reports are there's a pipe or hose under(?) intake manifold that can cause leaks that is tricky to see. I plain dunno if plain hose can be used or if it's part plastic or something you could properly create out of hardware?? Yes - a leak could be intermittent and might leak at only a certain pressure too and quit with more or less. Ever have a tire do that? I have!

If you can see what you think it is go price it out at a dealer and see it (I don't know where to find a pic of the part) on their screen or perhaps ask to look at it and decide from there.

Good luck with it however it gets fixed. I doubt a plastic patch of any kind would work well but not sure as I'm not looking at it,

T

Response From gemmons1

Thanks for the heads up on the crossover pipe. I went to the junk yard and got another one. I put new o-rings on it and that seems to fix the problem.
Another problem I was having is an intermittent idling problem. When I try to start the car sometimes it won't hold idle. Once I get going it's fine, most of the time. Sometimes it will stall when I come to a stop, but not often. When I do park it will be fine, but if I turn it off and try to restart the car it won't hold idle. Any suggestions?

Response From gemmons1 Top Rated Answer

I have to ammend my last post. It did not fix the problem. It just took a few days to build back up to where it was before. I am still losing antifreeze on the top of the block. It is puddling up under the intake manifold and then overflowing down onto the transmission.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Used Part" Is the problem identical now as it was?

Any way you can pressure check this and actually see the exact source of this leak? Perhaps the used part has the same issue - used is used

T

Response From gemmons1

It has the same exact problem. The original tube I took off looked fine but since there was no indication of leakage on the engine I pulled the used one from I replaced it anyway. I did buy new o-rings since the old ones were hard. What else could cause antifreeze to pool on top of the block?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

It has a leak so it can be found:

Get a pressure tester, dental mirrors or whatever it takes with areas cleaned off first you should be able to see it start to leak again - somewhere. By nature the leak will be the highest and evidence will trail towards rear from when it was in motion. AKA - highest/furthest forward. You'll find it as elusive as it might be. Stinks but there's no law that says the same thing can't happen right away

T