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We stock Intake Manifold parts for most Cadillac models, including CTS, DeVille, Escalade.

Dorman
2000 Cadillac Escalade Engine Intake Manifold - Upper 8 Cyl 5.7L Dorman

P311-170E5B7    615-181  New

17113206 , 87-1801 , FH10113 , 12552752 , 17113541

Qty:
$93.16
Dorman Engine Intake Manifold  Upper
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Item Grade: Regular
    • Manifold Height (in): 4 In.
    • Port Outlet Dimensions: 190x342 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Cadillac Escalade Upper V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Dorman
2007 Cadillac CTS Engine Intake Manifold 8 Cyl 6.0L Dorman

P311-56521D5    615-901  New

89017648

Qty:
$381.29
Dorman Engine Intake Manifold
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Item Grade: Regular
    • Manifold Height (in): 8 In.
    • Port Outlet Dimensions: 3.5 In. X 1 In.
Brand: Dorman
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2007 - Cadillac CTS V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
Dorman
2006 Cadillac Escalade EXT Engine Intake Manifold - Upper 8 Cyl 6.0L Dorman

P311-2EF09DB    615-183  New

87-1803 , 89017230 , 89017364 , 89017363 , SK615183 , 89017365 , 17113697

Qty:
$349.38
Dorman Engine Intake Manifold  Upper
  • Designed Specifically to Work w/Dorman OE Solutions Intake Manifold Gaskets Only 1 Piece Design
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Item Grade: Regular
    • Manifold Height (in): 11 In.
    • Port Outlet Dimensions: 25 X 81 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Cadillac Escalade EXT Upper V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967
Dorman
2000 Cadillac Escalade Engine Intake Manifold - Lower 8 Cyl 5.7L Dorman

P311-15A6A5B    615-300  New

17113201 , 8171132010 , 87-1811 , FH10111

Qty:
$435.16
Dorman Engine Intake Manifold  Lower
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Silver
    • Item Grade: Regular
    • Manifold Height (in): 3.5 In.
    • Port Outlet Dimensions: 29x52 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Lower
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2000 - Cadillac Escalade Lower V 8 Cyl 5.7L 350 -
Dorman
2005 Cadillac CTS Engine Intake Manifold - Upper 8 Cyl 5.7L Dorman

P311-25AF73F    615-900  New

88894339

Qty:
$379.71
Dorman Engine Intake Manifold  Upper
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Item Grade: Regular
    • Manifold Height (in): 7 In.
    • Port Outlet Dimensions: 3.75 X 1.5
Brand: Dorman
Position: Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
2005 - Cadillac CTS Upper V 8 Cyl 5.7L 346 -
Dorman
1998 Cadillac Seville Engine Intake Manifold - Upper 8 Cyl 4.6L Dorman

P311-2437D59    615-190  New

12497989

Qty:
$283.97
Dorman Engine Intake Manifold  Upper
  • Complete Unit
  • Product Attributes:
    • Color/Finish: Black
    • Item Grade: Regular
    • Manifold Height (in): 7.5 In.
    • Port Outlet Dimensions: 44x41 Mm
Brand: Dorman
Position: Upper
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Position Block Engine CID CC
1998 - Cadillac Seville Upper V 8 Cyl 4.6L 281 -
MSD
Qty:
$1,389.02
MSD Engine Intake Manifold
  • Atomic; AirForce; LS1; 2; 6; Intake Manifold
  • 103mm Throttle Body Bore; Polymer; Black w/Red Logos This part is legal for sale and use on Emissions Controlled Vehicles when used in accordance with the manufacturers application guide because it has a California Air Resources Board [CARB] Executive Order [EO] number~ The following vehicles are considered Emissions Controlled Vehicles: 1966 and newer U.S. manufactured California Certified vehicles; 1968 and newer U.S. manufactured Federally Certified vehicles; 1968 and newer Foreign manufactured vehicle~ Will Interfere w/Stock LS1/LS6 Water Pump~ Requires Modification To Top Water Pump Bolt~ Can Use An LS2 Water Pump- See Pg.8 Of The Instructions~ CARB E.O. D-722-3
  • Atomic Airforce Intake Manifold
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cylinder Head Type: Standard
    • Emission: N/a
    • Engine Make/Size: Chevy Ls1/2/6
    • Number of Carbs: None; For Fuel Injection
    • Position: N/a
    • RPM: Oem
    • RPM Range: Oem
    • Usage: Street/strip
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • When you're serious about power for your LS or new LT1 engine, call in the AirForce! The all-new MSD Atomic AirForce intake manifold delivers improved airflow and distribution to improve the performance of stock and modified engines. The unique bell-mouthed runner entrances maximize airflow and minimize shrouding - all while optimizing the available plenum volume for an unobstructed flow path over opposing runners. The polymer molded 2-piece design allows for easy access to the runners for porting. Atomic AirForce accepts an OEM or 103mm throttle body as well as stock or aftermarket fuel rails including MSD's Atomic LS EFI system. The intake bolts on and is supplied with new gaskets and hardware for a direct bolt-on package.
Brand: MSD
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2004 - Cadillac CTS V 8 Cyl 5.7L 346 -
MSD
Qty:
$1,389.02
MSD Engine Intake Manifold
  • Atomic; AirForce; LS1; 2; 6; Intake Manifold
  • 103mm Throttle Body Bore; Polymer; Black w/Red Logos This part is legal for sale and use on Emissions Controlled Vehicles when used in accordance with the manufacturers application guide because it has a California Air Resources Board [CARB] Executive Order [EO] number~ The following vehicles are considered Emissions Controlled Vehicles: 1966 and newer U.S. manufactured California Certified vehicles; 1968 and newer U.S. manufactured Federally Certified vehicles; 1968 and newer Foreign manufactured vehicle
  • Atomic Airforce Intake Manifold
  • Product Attributes:
    • Cylinder Head Type: Standard
    • Emission: N/a
    • Engine Make/Size: Chevy Ls1/2/6
    • Number of Carbs: None; For Fuel Injection
    • Position: N/a
    • RPM: Oem
    • RPM Range: Oem
    • Usage: Street/strip
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65: Yes
    • WARNING CA Proposition 65 Message: Warning: Cancer And Reproductive Harm - Www.p65warnings.ca.gov
  • When you're serious about power for your LS or new LT1 engine, call in the AirForce! The all-new MSD Atomic AirForce intake manifold delivers improved airflow and distribution to improve the performance of stock and modified engines. The unique bell-mouthed runner entrances maximize airflow and minimize shrouding - all while optimizing the available plenum volume for an unobstructed flow path over opposing runners. The polymer molded 2-piece design allows for easy access to the runners for porting. Atomic AirForce accepts an OEM or 103mm throttle body as well as stock or aftermarket fuel rails including MSD's Atomic LS EFI system. The intake bolts on and is supplied with new gaskets and hardware for a direct bolt-on package.
Brand: MSD
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Block Engine CID CC
2006 - Cadillac CTS V 8 Cyl 6.0L 364 5967

Latest Cadillac Repair and Intake Manifold Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

no power when car is running

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From caddyheaven on no power when car is running

i have a 1981 cadillac superior hearse with the cadillac 368 ci. motor. My problem is that it will start and run but it has no power, takes forever to get up to 55 mph, there is a strong smell of gasoline like the motor is flooding, and keeps stalling out at low rpms. I have changed the plugs and wires, set the timing to factory specs but that didnt help. it has an electronic carb with no adjustment screws like the older rochester carbs. any help will be appreciated

Response From Double J

First thing that came to mind is ..try advancing the distributor and see if it gets more power...
Maybe we have a timing chain/gear issue.
Also check the pickup coil wiring inside the distributor..fray and cause driveability issue.
Catalytic converter restricted?
Strong smell of fuel?...have you checked for leaks. hoses,lines,pump...
Fuel delivery problem ,as in not enough fuel can cause car to take forever to get power,especially right after cold start.
Bad carburetor?
Has the car been sitting any length of time?
Take a fuel sample?


Just throwing some things at you

Response From Guest

i replaced thr everything on the distributer including [plugs and wires, cap, coil ,pickup,rotor i have tried advancing the timing in 2 degree increments to no avail seeing as it seems to die on hills i will check the fuel pump
thank you for the reply

Response From Double J

To add..

I had an Oldsmobile back when that had a condition similar...took forever to get up to speed...I could get out and walk faster...LOL
....but it had a lean misfire to it after cold start and big time driveability issue cold..would fall flat on its face on hard acceleration,had to ease the gas to get to speed ....not as bad when warm but still noticable...

I found the steel fuel line back near the pump area that had a slight split in it...never ever showed a sign of a leak..I traced the line front to rear and couldn't see any sign of a problem....ran it on an external fuel source,in those days you could,..problem cleared...
So I removed all the lines and inspected and found the split...man it was so small ,barely could see it...put on all new lines,steel and rubber....
Ran like a champ after that...
My point is...sometimes that even tho you don't see a leak,it can still be a fuel delivery /volume problem...

Just a thought...

Response From DanD

There so many possibilities that could be causing this; it hard to know where to begin.
Is the automatic choke coming off all the way? If not that could explain the fuel smell and low speed stalling, plus the interlock for the “four barrel” would still be on, holding the secondary throttle closed causing the lack of power.
The power valve in the carb might be stuck/seized in one position again causing a low rpm flood and the loss in power, due to lack of fuel for the secondary’s.
The throttle position sensors were famous for failing with these carbs; they placed the sensor inside the carb, in the float bowl. Fuel would find its way into the sensor causing them to either go open or short to reference voltage. Regardless of which way it failed the computer wouldn’t know how far your foot was or wasn’t into the throttle; thus not adjusting timing or changing the dwell on the power valve’s solenoid on time.
Then it might not even be a carb problem; possibly a restricted exhaust/plugged converter; if exhaust can’t get out air can’t get in.
Then there’s engine mechanical; ie a timing chain that is very loose or jumped a tooth. You can still set ignition timing by cranking the distributor around but the valve timing would still be late/retarded.
Just a few thought off the top.

Dan.

Look like we're all thinking about the same here guys.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

"Ayup" .......... or "EH" in Canadian!

T

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Open book of possibilities. Try taking a intake manifold vacuum reading at idle and again at no load at 2,000 RPMs as they should be the same. What is the vacuum reading at idle. If not real close to 18Hg and steady note just what it does and report back.

That would help narrow down exhaust restriction, timing issues, etc.,

T

Cadillac DeVille water pump bypass tube

Showing 2 out of 28 Posts | Show 26 Hidden Posts
Question From steveonmars on Cadillac DeVille water pump bypass tube

I have a 1984 Cadillac DeVille with a 4.1L 250 engine and need to replace the water pump. the parts stores want to know if I have a bypass tube on mine or not. What is it and where would it be if I had one?

Thanks,

Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hi,

Just hunted parts as a clue. Two different sources. Seems the 4.1 didn't use a hose for bypass system. Could be that it's metal, built into water pump, or isn't a specific part # but rather generic cooling system hose.

Roughly 1% of the engines for these were a 5.7 diesel - I think based on an Olds block which was just a couple inch piece of hose from water pump to thermostat if I recall correctly. You would just use heater hose (generic) and cut a piece of so and they are a pill as the two spouts are so close together you need to either heat the piece up so it's soft or remove the thermostat housing if I recall.

Not an issue as you said it wasn't that engine. It may be a metal tube that's popular to go bad. When back at parts store see what they are referring to and take a pic of your water pump with you,

T

Response From steveonmars

I thought it might be something similar to what I've seen before where there was a 3 or 4 inch tube near the thermostat housing that where the heater hoses connected. This one doesn't have that but since this is a special order part I wanted to try to find out for sure. I'll probably just pull the pump and take it with me when I order the new one.

Thanks,

Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Autozone list two pumps?

Without built in bypass tube looks like this.........

/

With bypass tube looks like this.......

/

I'm not seeing the total difference? Can't always go by the pics but that site is pretty good. Apparently neither list a hose??

Here's the site..........

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?itemIdentifier=183731_139639_0_&skuDescription=Duralast+New+/+Water+Pump&brandName=Duralast+New&displayName=Water+Pump&categoryNValue=14399999&sortType=&store=5151&isSearchByPartNumber=false&fromWhere=&fromString=search&counter=0&itemId=95-0&navValue=14300095&filterByKeyWord=Water+Pump&productId=183731&searchText=Water+Pump&categoryDisplayName=Collision%2C+Body+Parts+%26+Hardware&parentId=43-0

Check others too, NAPA on line, O'Reileys, Advance Auto - anyplace that shows good pics could save you a hassle - having the old on the counter helps the most but call ahead to see if they have it. Real parts stores if you call by 10am if it's warehoused locally you'll have it by 2pm or at least places I deal with. Good luck,

T

Response From steveonmars Top Rated Answer

I've heard a couple different answers on other forums. One said it's a small tube at the bottom of the pump that has a hose going to the coolant overflow reservoir. The other said it's a small tube at the top of the pump that goes into the intake manifold. Either way it's supposed to bypass the thermostat when it's closed. My pump has neither one so I ordered the pump without the bypass tube.

Now I'm having trouble getting the old one off. There's a pulley on the front of the block under the power steering pump on the driver's side with a bolt through the center that needs a 3/8" hex wrench to take the pulley off. I can't get the bolt loose. The pulley turns free and there's no way to stop it from spinning to loosen the bolt. There's a bolt holding the water pump on that backs out right into the back side of this pulley and I can't get that bolt out so the water pump is still attached by that one bolt. The bolt that goes into the water pump is loose but it backs out into that pulley so it won't come out all the way to get the pump off.

Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Of course I'm not looking at the exact situation but have been thru zillions over the ions. A multi bolted pulley should be loosened with belt still on or use a stud and move along. If just one in center it may be pressed on so you would look to remove the whole thing if possible. Others have holes for access thru the pulley to something behind it.

Watch out with ratcheting box wrenches if used! If not the switch and reverse type (like GearWrench makes) you can back off a bolt and be unable to get wrench out - a stalemate of sorts!

Air tools and PB (power blaster penetrating oil) can be your best friend. Takes basic understanding how NOT to break off bolts! An art in itself sometimes as extracting flush broken ones can be a nightmare. Ones that are real sticky but have moved some ok go back and tighten carefully back and forth with more PB on threads. Sucks when they break when almost out!

Look hard again at the pulley in the way. Whole unit must cooperate somehow. It may have bracketing back/over to under a motor mount or something to cause bad language!

Use all caution not to bend up a pulley trying to hold it for a bolt. If bent up it will need to be replaced.

Can take a bunch of tools for what seems simple.

Make damn sure you get the correct water pump matched on the counter as you sure don't want to be back there again. Hang in there,

T

Response From steveonmars

Tom,
Thanks for the advice. I already have have the car apart and then found out I had one more bolt behind this pulley. The center bolt wouldn't break at all and all the belts and everything are already off. It started to get dark so I loaded it up with PB and called it a night. I'll try again tomorrow. There's no holes or anything in this pulley to hold it from spinning so I might have to get a little imaginative. Maybe I'll get lucky in the morning.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Get some rest and think about the approach in the morning. I'll be away most of am but whoever here or wherever watching may have ideas.

What does this pulley that's a pain go to? It would help me find out how it might come out,

T

Response From steveonmars

It doesn't really go to anything. It's just for the belts to go around. It sits under what I believe is the power steering pump. There's a skinny belt that connects the two of these and then a wider belt that goes to the AC compressor. I took some pictures but I haven't figured out how to post them here yet. If I can I'll post some pics.

Steve

Response From steveonmars

Tom,

Hopefully I just uploaded some pictures as attachments. I couldn't figure out how else to do it.

Response From steveonmars

&size=128It looks like that worked. Hope that helps a little.

Steve

Response From steveonmars

I guess that didn't work after all.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Pic posting from your own stuff can be a pill. It won't take stuff from my own puter here but will from near anywhere else. A setting or some geeky thing that prohibits my own?? Try them as an attachment and then I can post them,

T

Response From steveonmars

I tried attachments in post #10 and just tried again here. Hopefully these will work.
(edit - post pics direct - don't ask how or why this works?? Nice pics for archives - Tom)

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/Automotive_Repair_C1/Heating_or_AC_Issues_F8/Re%3A_Cadillac_DeVille_water_pump_bypass_tube_P68115/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=577;t=search_engine

http://autoforums.carjunky.com/cgi-bin/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=578;t=search_engine
http://autoforums.carjunky.com/cgi-bin/gforum.cgi?do=post_attachment;postatt_id=579;t=search_engine

Response From steveonmars

It rained all say today so I didn't do anything. The bolt that won't come loose is behind the fan blade but you can see the pulley I'm talking about.

Steve

Response From Hammer Time

Not sure what you are trying to do here but what you have marked in those pictures is the power steering pulley which is pressed on to the pump. There is no bolt in the end. That is just a hex hole in the end of the shaft. The one above it is the air pump. You need a special puller to pull that pulley off the pump.

Response From steveonmars

The pulley I have marked pulley, is that what you're saying is pressed on the power steering pump? It doesn't look like there's anything at all behind it. What's the thing I have marked "power steering?" ?

Steve

Response From Sidom

That's a vacuum pump that is labeled p/s pump.

On this model the p/s pump pulley needs to be removed to r&r the water pump. The pulley is pressed onto the pump and special puller is required to remove it... Some parts houses will rent the puller.......

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Posted the pics direct - came out huge but nice archives. PS pump pulley is pressed on as said. Rent-able? Yes at many parts outlets or perhaps not that expensive - I forgot what mine cost

Use of temps can help with pressed stuff - races, pulleys etc., put part you need smaller in your freezer if allowed (CAUTION! CAN CAUSE DOMESTIC PROBLEMS!) and they'll go back on/in better,

T

Response From steveonmars

Thanks for the tips so far. Now I remember why I quit working on my own cars. I had a puller and tried pulling off the pulley from the power steering pump and it just twisted the arms on the puller. I had another puller from when I was a machinist so I tried that one. I had to grind just a little bit off the legs and it fit perfect over the end of the pulley. This is a solid piece with nothing to twist and nice and short so the pressure was nice and uniform. The legs fit perfect in the groove on the end of the pulley and all it did was start to bend up and cut through the end of the pulley. I tried tapping the pulley while the pressure was pulling. It was soaked with power blaster 2 days ago and again this morning so that had plenty of time to sit.

This pulley still doesn't want to come off. Is it safe to use heat on this? Will I damage the pump if I use heat? I really need some help here guys.

I've been working on my own cars for 30 years and I'm restoring a '52 MG so I'm not a total amatuer. I also built a couple muscle cars back in the 70's & 80's. I did stop doing my own work when I could finally afford newer cars about 10 years ago but now I'm disabled and divorced and had to buy an older car agian. I do have the background and all the basics even if I need to be reminded of some of this stuff once in a while. I've always taught myself so don't always know the proper names or terms but the basics are there. I do appreciate any help you can give me.

Thanks a lot,

Steve

Response From Hammer Time

I hope you didn't try to use a jaw type puller to get that off. all that will do is bend and destroy the pulley. There is a special puller that grabs the lip on the hub area.




Response From steveonmars

Thanks, I went to the parts store to rent one and they didn't have one to rent but tried to sell me a jaw type that said power steering puller for $30 so I tried my jaw type because it was the similar. It didn't work obviously. I can't afford to spend $30 on something I'll never use again but I may not have a choice.

Thanks for the pics, I know what to look for now.

Steve

Response From Hammer Time

If you live near an AutoZone or Advanced Auto parts, most of them have loaner or rental programs.

Response From nickwarner

most likely if you used a 3 jaw on it the pulley is trashed. I know some excellent parts guys that know what they are talking about, and I know some whose hands I have to hold just to get an order in. Problem is when you aren't familiar with whats needing to happen and don't deal with a certain store enough to know who is good and who isn't. I hate to sound mean, but when I'm busy and call my local NAPA or O'Reillys I hang up if a certain employee that I know isn't competent answers. I call back later. They may be barely able to find an oil filter or something simple, but if they were that good at working on cars they honestly wouldn't be parts guys. They'd be mechanics. Some of them used to be mechanics and got into the parts store due to health problems. Those are the guys you want. Especially the old timers. They know all the tricks. But when a guy tells you that a 3 jaw is just as good as a power steering puller he should be taken out in the moonlight and beaten with hammers. If a 3 jaw was good enough, why would they make a special puller for power steering pulleys? Also remember that it takes a special tool to put it on without wrecking it as well. Like Hammer said, many parts store loan tools and you need to talk with them about those tools before you blow too much coin on this.

Response From steveonmars

Thanks to everyone who helped. I bought a puller and it was a piece of cake to pull the pulley and reinstall later. I'll probably never use this tool again but it was worth the $35 just to get the job done right.

Steve

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thanks for the follow up. $35 bucks is nothing in this biz. Have a boat load of "one-time" tools and can't do certain things without them. Way it goes,

T

Response From Hammer Time

Before you even take that pulley off, rotate it and measure whether there is any runout to the pulley at all. If the pulley was bent at all from that jaw puller, then plan on getting another one before it goes back together. That one is ruined.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Steve,

Hammer said it - you can't fake what kind of puller and get the right one. It's been that style for those for ions, looks just like the one I have predating the invention of the wheel!

Forget $30 if that's all it is. (seems too low to me) That will look cheap vs a new pump and pulley if bent/damaged! If you can't rent it, sell the tool, buy a decent one and it will sell but make sure you are done and all is working.

You may need that tool if pulley is trashed now just to replace it so think about owning it if you want to fix your own stuff,

T

2001 Hyundai Accent won't turn Over

Showing 2 out of 9 Posts | Show 7 Hidden Posts
Question From RappinRiles on 2001 Hyundai Accent won't turn Over

Hello! My son's 2001 Hyundai Accent won't turn over. I jumped it - same results - nothing. Directionals work at proper speed without slowing down. Turn the key and silence. We replaced valve cover gasket yesterday. Vacuum lines seem hooked up correctly and drove it yesterday after wards and today Could problem still be battery? I was suspecting starter or starter solenoid, if it has one. Any help appreciated!

It's a 4 cyl, 1.6 liter engine. Sorry

Response From Hammer Time

You're not going to know until you test it. Try jumping power to the trigger wire at the starter to test it once you know you have a good battery.

Response From RappinRiles

Thanx! Is starter under car? Which wire would be trigger wire? Do I connect positive cable to it and simply ground the negative cable? I remember old starters had a post that the positive wire went to.

Response From Hammer Time

It has a small wire going to the starter that when energized with 12v, it triggers the starter.

Response From RappinRiles

Hey Hammer Time, Where in God's name is the starter on this car? I've looked at a few schematics and don't see how it can be where they say it is. I'm looking on the top, driver's side toward the fire wall. I can't find any videos of the starter being removed for this model. Are there any sites where I can see diagrams of this. Thanx!

Response From Hammer Time

It's on th back side of the engine and probably will have to be accessed from below. At least one of the bolts is likely accessed from above though.




http://i1198.photobucket.com/albums/aa448/Wrenchtech/Starter01accent.jpeg

Response From RappinRiles

OMG, what a pain in the ars that was! Every starter I've ever replaced was right smack underneath in clear view. I couldn't even see all of this starter when I was under it. And I now have so many cuts and scratches on my arms, from trying to reach up thru from the bottom, that it looks like I got in a fight with an alley cat. LOL!

Anywho, mission accomplished! The short, thick wire going from a starter terminal back to the body , or into it, was broke in half. My son had to go to work so, he missed out on all the fun. :(

Thanks Hammer Time!

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

LOL ............... welcome to our world. That is actually not one of the hard ones. The flat rate time is just over half an hour.

Be thankful you don't have a Cadillac where the starter is under the intake manifold.

Response From Discretesignals

It is kind of weird, but of all the Northstars I worked on, i've never had to replace a starter. You would think with all the heat of being under the intake the starters would have a high failure rate.

1960 cadillac

Showing 2 out of 3 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Guest on 1960 cadillac

I usually post on osr but the site is down so forgive my newness and my barging in with a long question...but I'm desperate! I have a 1960 Caddy 62series. It was running perfectly and then problems started....at first I noticed what seemed to be the transmission taking a very long time to automatically shift from between 35/40 mph and 60 mph. When weather was cold it would do it frequently but when weather was nice it would easily reach 60 and then do it only after I had been driving it for about 20-30 minutes. This problem came and went. Then the car just died in traffic but had full electrics...almost as if it ran out of gas. It would continue to do this everytime it was stopped and idling. I changed the fuel pump, rebuilt the carb and put on a new fuel line as the old one was brittle. Now the car will start up and idle perfectly. It progresses up to about 20 mph and then no matter how much gas I give it, won't shift past. The car then starts to power down and dies in about 30 seconds regardless of how fast I'm going. Also the whole time the exhaust is blowing out a thick white smoke tinged with black. The engine is running really hard...almost as if too many rpm's. I don't know what to do next? Head gasket? Manifold leak? Rebuild whole tranny? Carb is set correctly and I've checked the points and timing. Any help you can give me would be much appreciated! Thanks so much! Samantha

Response From Guest

chechk vacumm line side of carb to trans will not up shift and will slam on down shift modulater is on side of trans held in by bolt and clip like dist.clip cable contols normal speed up shifts along with gov. on tail shaft inside exten housing

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

These cars (I believe) shift by three controls. A throttle position linkage from carb, a vacuum hose from intake manifold to trans must be intact, and governor in the trans that will force it to upshift, but that doesn't go bad very much, T

94' honda civic periodically sputters with loss of power

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Question From mtmick406 on 94' honda civic periodically sputters with loss of power

I have a 94' honda civic dx 1.5L. I just bought the car two weeks ago and now periodically the car starts to sputter and bogs down similar to a bad Cadillac converter but the does not seem to be the problem. the car has 154,000 miles and I am at a loss to what the problem is especially sense it runs fine some times and bad others.

thank you for your time, and help,
mtmick406

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

VTEC, 16, or 8 valve engine?

Pull the plugs and inspect them? How do the wires look and ohm out? Any oil down in the spark plug wells? What is the condition of the cap and rotor? Fuel filter been changed recently?

Seeing how the engine has mileage and age on it, might want to do some tune- up stuff if it already hasn't been done. Valve adjustment is important on those engines because as the seats wear the valve lash disappears. This may cause a lower than normal intake manifold vacuum reading which affect the MAP sensor reading and the overall running of the engine. Honda's are very sensitive to valve lash, so it is a good idea to check the lash.

You can also check for trouble codes without using a scan tool. There is a 2 terminal service connector under the dash by the glove box. If you jumper the two terminals together and turn the ignition on, the computer will flash any diagnostic codes stored.