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1993 Chevrolet Cavalier Manual Trans Input Shaft Bearing - Front Timken

P311-44BAB6B    32206M  New

Timken Manual Trans Input Shaft Bearing  Front
  • DNA
  • Suggested Purchase Quantity: 2
    • Most jobs typically require 2 of this item.
Brand: Timken
Position: Front
Additional Fitment Information:
Vehicle Trans. Speed Transmission Manuf. Code Position
1993 - Chevrolet Cavalier 5 MG2 Front

Latest Input Shaft Bearing Repair and Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

Clutch or Input Shaft Bearing?

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From '93 Civic on Clutch or Input Shaft Bearing?

The transmission isn't engaging. When I press the clutch peddle down it makes a loud screeching noise. I put the car in gear and bring the clutch peddle back up, the noise stops, but the transmission doesn't engage.

I can move the stick through all the gears with the motor running and the peddle up and nothing engages. I've been told that this is either a clutch/throwout bearing or input shaft bearing problem. How can I tell which is the issue without taking them out?

Note- the clutch isn't soft. I've had no issues with the clutch. I was shifting from seconded to third gear when this happened. Also, there doesn't seem to be an issue with the CV axel, it looks fine and isn't engaging either.

Thanks for your help!

- 1993 Honda Civic -

Response From Hammer Time

Other than simply guessing, no you can't determine which one without taking the transmission out.

Response From '93 Civic


Once I take it out how can I tell if it's the clutch or the input shaft bearing? What am I looking for?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

This isn't something you should do yourself. Someone with some experience needs to analyze the situation.

Car Making Grinding Noises When I Rev The Engine

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From sandman86 on Car Making Grinding Noises When I Rev The Engine

Year of vehicle: 2001
Make of vehicle: Honda
Model of vehicle: Civic EX
Engine size: 1.7L
Mileage/Kilometer: 113,000

Hello Gents,

I've come for your help.

I just recently replaced my brake pads, rotors, struts and outer tie rods. During that process I was pretty liberal with the hammer to get some stubborn nuts and parts off. In particular, I beat on the outer tie rods a lot to get them to to budge, while spraying liquid wrench in the threading. The only other area I hit a little bit with a hammer was my spindle nut. I put a socket on the spindle nut and hammered it a few times to loosen some rust. I'm hoping this isn't part of the problem. After finishing those repairs I noticed a sound coming from the front of my car. I don't know exactly where though. I'm hearing a grinding sounds as my car needle passes through the 3000 RPM area. This is while the car is parked at my home. I'm trying to find out what may need to be fixed in my car.

One last thing to note. My car is running and I can drive it. I've only taken it around the block twice though since the lower ball joint is shot.

Problem 1: The grinding occurs regardless of whether or not I have my foot down on the clutch pedal when I'm revving the engine.

Problem 2: There is a separate whooshing noise I hear coming from the hood of my car. When I push my clutch down, that sound fades completely. Any help is greatly appreciated.

I've also made a quick video as a visual aid if it helps.

Please let me know if you need additional information and I will be happy to provide it.

Response From 02civicturbo Top Rated Answer

Problem 1: The grinding occurs regardless of whether or not I have my foot down on the clutch pedal when I'm revving the engine.

Problem 2: There is a separate whooshing noise I hear coming from the hood of my car. When I push my clutch down, that sound fades completely. Any help is greatly appreciated.

after reading this and reading it is a manual transmission i can almost 100% assure the sound you hear is the input shaft bearing (main shaft bearing) in the transmission, when you accelerate at lower speeds and lower rpms does the sound escalate ?

usually when your hear a noise like this and you have the clutch out it turns out to be the tob (throw out bearing) and when the clutch is in it tends to be the input shaft bearing (main shaft bearing) in the transmission but when the bearing gets that bad it can happen whether the clutch is in or out.

if so it is the input shaft bearing (main shaft bearing) in the transmission which are known to go on the 7th generation civics as well as the head gaskets.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

This thread is kinda dead. Original poster never came back so I'm locking this and can be reopened upon request to a moderator,


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Re-opened upon request of OP.

Note: These noises if I read this correctly happened immediatly after brakes and front end work. The noise does this sitting still so forget brakes, CV joints, struts as they aren't involved! They are not in use when this sudden noise issue happened. The hammering hard (so it seems as said) on an outer tie rod end seems to me the most likely cause possibly shocking rack and pinion steering which is ready with PS pump pressure to work even sitting still revving engine.

Maybe just in hoisting to do this something weak let go? Do wild cooincedences happen - sure do. Again the high liklihood is something done with the work bothered something else or even damaged it. It has to be something that moves. IDK - if copious sprays to free stuck parts got on the belt could even be part of it or all of it. That's why I suggested trying it with belt removed for a test.

Thoughts include hoisting improperly? IDK - envisioning a jack, and jack stand and need to know where to place things while doing this work. That is why I think that could be involved. Was oil pan used to support this by mistake or something? We don't know yet. Let OP come back with more info on how that work went and what was done. He already said took hard hammering. I'm just groping for clues why this instantly happened, - T

Response From sandman86

I appreciate all the input. I will definitely come back with more information this weekend when I get a chance to tinker. To give you more input on the hoisting, I had a hydraulic jack and a 3 ton jack stand. I used the side lining of the car just outside the reinforced area to pump the jack so that I could rest the reinforced area on the jack stand. The non-reinforced metal was dug into about 1/4" but it was superficial damage only.

As for this weekend, I will try removing the belt to see if it has any effect.

I will be replacing my front wheel bearings and the other front ball joint. Hopefully, I can diagnose these noises while I'm in there.

I will keep you guys posted.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Notes: Hoisting takes knowing where to AND if rusted what alternate spots. This is going to vary car to car. Many oil pans look at a glance like they would be strong enough - NOT. Always consider the surface you are working on. Concrete is generally the best. Asphalt in the heat especially can fail. Use of good quality thick plywood can be fine. Basically use your judgment on the situation in front of you or seek help. Too many people get hurt or killed for what could be prevented.

Jack stands - solid ones only. The stamped steel ones I don't trust. Unsure of ratings listed for all these things too. Double up if unsure of any places.

With wheel bearings you can feel them in hand if OK or not. May be on my own opinion and experience but would only replace ONE bad one and leave the other side alone. Too many cheap new ones will not outlast a good original. Hub type (most now) bearings are not visible to see tell tale early failure I'll call galling which is tiny pits in anything that needs to be perfect. A good bearing makes no sound when spun and no feel of freeplay.

I've had assorted bearings last an hour, day or forever. Many OE assorted throughout vehicle can last full life of vehicle. IMO, #1 reason for failure is being submerged in water or moisture gets/dirt get in + in or many Chinese bearing just aren't good with quality control + bad from the get go,


Response From sandman86

Hey Tom,

I took your advice on the wheel bearing repair and replaced just the front right one that was shot. I also took a closer look to see if there was any serious damage under the car from the jack/jack stands, but it looked fine. I ran out of time during repairs and didn't get a chance to mess with the belts, but I did get a nice sunburn.

My car finally seems drivable and is very quiet when in gear. I created a video of the repair to hopefully help other DIYers with wheel bearings.

I will have an update on the noises next weekend when I dive back in.

Best Regards,


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Didn't re-read whole thread but sounds good. As said I do 'generally' approve of just replacing the bad bearing only as quality of a new one and life expectancy is uncertain to me. If all quiet and feeling good now I'd consider this done. Do suggest a good alignment if not already done,


Response From drjones

does the sound really coming from the engine and not in the suspensions? it can be also loose bolt from vibrating. have you already check the drive belts or pulley and bearings? when im tracing unusual noise in the engine I use a small cut of hose i put one end to my ear and the other end in my suspected areas. like a doctor with a stethoscope. sounds crazy but it works for me. just ask for someone that can step on the accelerator while checking. I think the clutch noise issue is different

Response From drjones

btw. please check your cvjoint too. maybe its also affected after you pull out the rotors.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Thread is actually a bit old now for advice "drjones." It's sitting still so the work done, brakes, struts and CV joints are not involved. It has been read without a response till you just came by. Please leave threads with nothing already or much over a week are done.

Original person. Bet if and only if this noise just happened from your work you may have with excessive hammering out tie rod ends done something to PS? Is fluid full? If you haven't fixed it yet or found it, try taking belt off and see if noise disappears - just quickly for a check. If the noise is gone spin pulleys and check them for anything wrong while belt is off.

Note: When you push in the clutch the trans is just sitting there as dead weight if sitting still as you were.

The vid was good but noises can be difficult if not there in person,


Chrysler Stratus 2.0 squeaking noise

Showing 2 out of 14 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From manual on Chrysler Stratus 2.0 squeaking noise


I have Chrysler Stratus 2.0 from 1998 (Dodge Stratus for EU market) with 160 000 kilometers on the odometer, and I have strange squeaking noise coming from transmission (I think) when release the clutch. here is the video with that sound:

from 0:00 to 0:10 clutch pedal is pressed, and at 0:10 it's released, on 0:18 again pressed and on 0:20 released. I think you will notice strange sound, so can anybody help me with detecting the problem.

Thank you in advance

Response From Hammer Time

Yep, if that noise is only occurring when the clutch is out, then you have an internal transmission issue. You need to get that to a trans shop before doing as lot more damage. You could make sure the oil level in the trans is correct first but it sounds like the damage is done already.

Response From manual

I tried to refill oil, but no luck, still the same. when the weather is colder, sound is louder and more noticeable.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Could be a clutch release bearing or input shaft bearing. Your going to have to remove the transmission and take a look.

Response From manual

I tried already to remove complete transmission and put another one (I bought it at junkyard), but the sound was still here. Thats why i think that its caused by something at clutch system, not tranny

Response From Sidom

The thing with manual tranny repair.....If there is any kind of mileage at all on the clutch assembly.....Then it gets a new one while the tranny is out......That is the one piece that IS going to wear out and need to be replaced at some point....

It's a shame you didn't change it while you had the tranny out.......but the tranny is going to have to come back out and that assembly inspected......You probably have a broken spring in the disc or pressure plate.....

While its out.....change everything, disc, pressure plate, t/o bearing, pilot bushing & have the flywheel turned....

Response From manual

Clutch kit has been refurbished when we were removing the tranny last time. Some springs have been broken, but new springs are installed, new housing and clutch

Response From Sidom

Just so it's clear......You bought a complete clutch kit for this car, that had a new disc, pressure plate (housing) throw out bearing & pilot bushing/bearing and all these pieces were installed?

Response From manual

My english isnt so good, se here is the link on ebay to part that I bought and replaced when we were removing tranny last time:

Link removed ...................... not allowed

Response From Sidom

Your english is way better than my spanish...

It looks like everything was included in that kit.

Is it making the same noise as before you changed the tranny & clutch assemby or is this a new noise?

When it's make the noise can you tell if it's coming from the tranny or the engine?

Response From manual

Yeah, the sound is almost the same. It has not been as cold weather as it is now, so i cant tell exactly, but yeah, that was the same sound. And when its colder, its louder as I already said. Did you see the video I posted the link at the start of the thread? that's the sound I hear, and I hear it when I release clutch if the engine is cold

Response From Sidom

Yes, I listened to it and from the noise and your description, it really sounds like there is a problem in the tranny or clutch assembly but if everything is new and you have the exact same noise you would think that the problem is somewhere else....

When you press the pedal down, you disengage/release the clutch, so the engine is spinning, the tranny isn't spinning other than the clutch assembly. The t/o bearing is pressing on the pressure plate so if its bad, this is when it will make noise but there is no noise when the pedal is pressed & the clutch is released.

I'm guessing you have it neutral when you are pressing and releasing the clutch pedal since the car is sitting still...while this will get the main shaft of the tranny to spin, it really won't pull a load on the engine since the car isn't moving....

I'm curious if the noise is the same when the car is moving and in all the gears?

It's possible you got a tranny with the same problem as the one you removed.....While the odds are pretty high against this I suppose it is possible....

If you get a long bar or stick, you can put one end on different parts of the tranny & engine and your ear on the other end to see if you can hear the area the noise is coming from..

Response From manual

i can hear the same sound in 1st, 2nd and a little in 3rd gear (3rd gear about 2000 RPM, not below). and if cars is moving and in gear, if I press clutch it wont stop the sound until i shift the gear to neutral

Response From Sidom

Well....it keeps coming back to a tranny noise... I would have to admit that it would be real bad luck to get a wrecking yard tranny that is making the same noise as the one that you replaced but it really looks like that.....

I'm not there but before I pulled the tranny again, I would want to see the exact spot the noise is coming from.....If it's the middle of the tranny, then the tranny would have to come out.....

If it's in the bellhousing area (front of the trans where the clutch goes) I would double check all the shields and anything else I could to make sure something wasn't touching the flywheel....

I know you don't want to hear this........I've been there & don't that...Most recently I got a cracked head from a machine shop.......BUT....At this point.....looks like you are going to have to pull the trans again.....

1997 Civic lx making grinding noises

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From bigblondguy on 1997 Civic lx making grinding noises

1997 Honda Civic 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Manual 174332 miles

I recently purchased a 1997 Honda Civic LX with the 1.6L engine and manual transmission. Since the purchase, a loud grinding noise has become apparent. I have taken it to two different shops, and recieved 2 different answers on the required repair. One shop told me the throwout bearing was bad, meaning I need a new clutch, the other said it was my input shaft bearing, meaning I needed a new transmission. Here is what I know about the problem.

- Clutch engaged (out) and not moving, no noise.
- Clutch engaged (out) and moving in all gears but reverse, loud grinding sound.
- Clutch disengaged (depressed) and moving (coasting) no noise
- Clutch disengaged (depressed) and stopped, only a slight grind when cold, none when warmed up. The noise on startup with a disengaged clutch is fairly new, about a week old.

I had the transmission serviced at an auto shop after reading a couple of forums. At this point I was told that the fluid smelled like gear oil, rather than Honda manual transmission fluid (there were a few very small metallic flakes in the fluid when they showed it to me). It was suggested to me that I should use Mobil 1 synthetic 10w30, and so I authorized them to use it (apparently honda manual transmissions use motor oil). There was absolutely no change in the sound at all even after the fluid change, it is just as loud as it has been for the past couple of weeks.

The noise itself is a very loud grinding sound, almost like what you hear when a wheel bearing goes bad. I just want to clarify which component I should consider replacing. If it really is just the throwout bearing, a clutch is far less expensive than a new transmission and clutch. As far as shifting goes, it is smooth as silk, never hard to get into gear, and it doesnt pop out of gear.

Thank you for taking the time to read this, I hope to clarify this soon so I can resolve this issue.

Response From nickwarner Top Rated Answer

I don't know how the Honda trannys are put together, but on many transmissions the input shaft can be popped out and bearing replaced without ripping the whole transmission apart. It could be the input bearing. I doubt the throwout bearing is bad or you wouldn't hear if when the clutch is engaged. But if I'm reading what you say right it makes the noise bad when moving, which could mean bigger problems with the ring and pinion gears and their carrier bearings. Not a good thing that the wrong lube was used in this. You would need it torn down to know for sure. Hate to be the bearer of bad news, and best of luck. With the miles you have on this, I would replace the clutch and rear main seal while you have the transmission out. They've had a long life and if it were my car I wouldn't put if back together without the new parts.

2001 Toyota Corolla, 5 speed, transmission grinding!

Showing 4 out of 8 Posts | Show 4 Hidden Posts
Question From Anthony Starfield on 2001 Toyota Corolla, 5 speed, transmission grinding!

Houston, we have a problem! And work was just plain boring until this happened!

My 2001 Corolla has a 5 speed, manual transmission, a 1.8 liter engine and 187,650 miles. I bought it about 2 months ago from a computer geek named Daniel. As far as I could tell, he's a careful, competent driver. I'm a careful driver; I drive like an old farmer.

For the last month or so, it had been making a low level, rubbing, grinding kind of sound. Sort of like when brake pads are just beginning to wear out, but it wasn't the brakes. Sometimes the sound would go away for several minutes. Sometimes it was there when I started the car and for a few minutes after. Then it would disappear for as long as I kept driving.

Then last night, “Captain, we have a problem! The warp engines nay canna take it!”

The grinding sound was suddenly much louder! On top of that, it started making this sound like the bendix (The part of the starter that moves out of the starter and rotates the flywheel to start the engine.) hitting the flywheel, but that didn't seem to be what was actually happening.
It made that hitting sound as often as every 10 seconds for 3 times in a row, then at random times. I had to drive it back to the apartment after work, about 12 miles. It was still making the grinding sound. Then it made another sound, sort of like an orbital metal polisher whirring around or a 1950s, science fiction movie, flying saucer taking off! That was weird!

I drove the Corolla around a few blocks tonight:

With the clutch pedal pressed all the way down, the engine sounds fine.With the clutch pedal up, not touching it at all, and the shifter in neutral, the engine sounds fine.
As soon as I started moving, the grinding sound returned, along with the whirring sound.
Even so, the Corolla didn't seem to have any less power. I was able to park it okay.

The thing I need to know - Is the problem the clutch or in the transmission? And what exactly is the problem?

My best guess is that parts of the clutch (I've read it's the same material that makes brake pads.) have broken and the … is it the pressure plate? … is pressing against the rest of the clutch and the clutch is spinning, so it makes the grinding, whirring sound.

I've never changed a clutch before, but I have replaced several axles (They're called half-shafts on front wheel drive cars. Go figure.) and several timing belts, plus starters, brake pads and calipers, alternators and yada yada. So I figure I have enough experience to tackle the clutch on a Corolla.

If I need a new clutch, any thoughts on the brand to go with or how much to spend? I looked at the ones on the O'Reilly Auto Parts website and there are 3, going for $130, $150 and $200.

If the transmission has a bad part, can I get the new whatever part it is at O'Reilly or Napa? And is it something I need special tools to get out and put back in?

Thank you for your help! I appreciate your time and effort. Enjoy the warm and breezy autumnal weather, Anthony

Respect your efforts, respect yourself. Self-respect leads to self-discipline. When you have both firmly under your belt, that’s real power.
-- Clint Eastwood

Response From nickwarner

Sounds like the input shaft bearing on the transmission might be on the way out. If it was a clutch component you'd hear it even sitting still and the noise would change by pressing the clutch.

I think you're going to have to pull the trans, in which case you would want to replace the clutch and the rear main seal of the engine while you are in there. I would go with an OE grade replacement to be sure you are getting the right one. You will need to send your flywheel to a machine shop to have it surfaced or it will damage the new clutch. Same principal as turning brake rotors during a brake job to make sure the surfaces are trued up and not glazed so they will allow proper break-in of the new friction material.

I don't think a local parts store will carry the trans parts you need. It will require special tools to do the job, and I would not recommend that someone who hasn't been trained in rebuilding manual transmissions try to get one apart. You may need more than just one bearing. It may be the best bet to take the trans to a rebuilder and let them take care of it for you. They know what they are looking for and where to get the parts. You will save yourself plenty of cash doing the swing work yourself, and have a good car when all is said and done. Make sure you fill it with the proper factory grade lubricant when you reinstall it into the car.

It may help the guy who has this trans on his bench if you take him for a test drive before you pull the trans out so he can hear it. He knows exactly what he's needing to hear on this.

Response From Anthony Starfield

Thank you for all the ideas, Nick!

I just drove to a library. Now with the clutch pedal pressed all the way down, the shifter in neutral, the car not moving, I can hear the grinding sound, though it's fairly faint.

Once I get moving, then the grinding sound is very loud! I can hear it grinding in all 5 gears, though I noticed in 4th and 5th gear, and sometimes in 3rd, it will also make that whirring, metal polisher, supercharger type of sound as well.

If the problem is the input shaft bearing, will it only grind with the clutch pedal up, the transmission in gear and the car moving?

Could the problem be the clutch release bearing? It that also called the throwing bearing? I'm still learning the lingo.

Thank you much and have a cool weekend!

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Now noise sitting still with clutch pushed to floor not just driving along! IMO this trans is tearing itself up and it's the "throw out" bearing that is spinning w engine running, clutch to floor the trans should be all still inside but maybe the front shaft has worn in and still able to cause noise or harmed more.

This won't be known until inspected, witness by a tech or if what I think, taken apart to see if that trans can even be fixed if this is totally trans problems which seem more likely now,


Response From Discretesignals

I just drove to a library. Now with the clutch pedal pressed all the way down, the shifter in neutral, the car not moving, I can hear the grinding sound, though it's fairly faint.

If you have the shifter in gear with the clutch disengaged (pedal down), do you hear the grinding noise with the vehicle stopped and engine idling?

Response From Anthony Starfield Top Rated Answer

Thank you for all the ideas and intel! Pardon the jet lag in getting back here.

===”If you have the shifter in gear with the clutch disengaged (pedal down), do you hear the grinding noise with the vehicle stopped and engine idling?”

I could not hear the noise with the clutch pedal all the way down, shifter in neutral and the car not moving. But when I let the clutch pedal up, I could barely hear the grinding sound.

After I got moving, with the clutch pedal pushed all the way down, shifter in neutral and coasting, I could hear the grinding sound and it was significantly louder than when the car was sitting still. Then I took my foot off the clutch pedal, shifter in neutral, still coasting forward and the grinding sound was just about as loud.

Now it's a whole new ball game. I should have just let the car sit, but nooooo. I tried to drive to the local library and the transmission seized! I had to get the car towed. The dispatcher somehow lost my call. It was dark, I was tired and cold, yada yada. But Chuck, the tow truck driver, was a really cool guy! He gave me encouragement and that's what I really need.

Now the car is sitting in the back. Yesterday Tofleif (My friend from church) drove me to Harbor Freight and I bought a few extra tools, including a pair of jack stands. He's also driving me to work tonight. Tomorrow I'll get to work.

I've never pulled a transmission before, but hopefully I can mange that much.

If the problem is a shredded input shaft bearing, will that be noticeable once I get the transmission out?

And does anyone know what size the bolt is for adding transmission fluid? My socket set goes up to 18 millimeters and that is too small for this bolt! Why can't this thing just have a dipstick like an automatic transmission?

Thank you again. A happy autumn week to everyone!

Response From nickwarner

You would have to pull the input shaft out of the trans to see the bearing. You definitely have internal trans issues.

If you only have a socket set that goes up to 18mm, you aren't going to be able to get this trans out. You won't even be able to get the axleshafts out. You will either need a more extensive toolset or pay a shop to do this job for you.

Response From Discretesignals

You should drive it to your repair shop and have them take a listen to this, just to confirm where it is actually coming from.