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Latest Pontiac Repair and Ignition Switch Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

no start or crank 2002 pontiac grand prix 3.8 v6

Showing 4 out of 4 Posts
Question From john-hill53 on no start or crank 2002 pontiac grand prix 3.8 v6

have replaced starter and battery checked ignition have no power on any wire on ignition switch

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Check the main fuses in the underhood fuse box, particularly the ignition MAIN 1 fuse #5 40amp

Response From john-hill53

ok ty

Response From john-hill53

why dont i have any power on ignition switch

2004 pontiac grandam wont start

Showing 5 out of 14 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From nealdouglas on 2004 pontiac grandam wont start

2004 grand am wont start. starter kicks in but wont start sometimes it will start.then it goes back to just kicking in. w replaced the starter and the ignition switch .I turned the key on for ten minutes then turned it off and tried to start it. it started once then started just bumping again.

Response From Discretesignals

Have the battery tested to be sure it is good. Make sure your battery connections are clean and tight.

Response From nealdouglas

I had the battery tested cleaned terminals even relocated the ground wire. but it didn't help.

Response From kev2

lets try to clear this up- some confusion as to cranking or not.

the starter works - engine cranks (spins) turns over but will not start?

Answer that - and let us know - easy just your observations -
1) is check engine light on?
2) is security light on?
3) is there a remote starter?

Can you use a test light? fuel pressure gauge? sheck for spark?

Response From nealdouglas

will the crank sensor cause this problem.

Response From Discretesignals

We need to know if this is a cranking problem (starter doesn't work) or a starting problem ( starter turns the engine, but the engine doesn't run).

Response From nealdouglas

starter kicks in but wont turn over new starter ignition switch and battery

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Please let's clear this up once and for all or we get no place. DOES THE ENGINE PHYSICALLY TURN AS IN BELTS MOVE AND IT SPINS BUT DOESN'T START OR NOT TURN (CRANK) AT ALL?


Saying "turn over" means nothing but used a lot for an engine that doesn't start for either reason. Approach is totally dependent on just what and how it fails,


T

Response From nealdouglas Top Rated Answer

the starter engauges but the belts do not move

Response From Hammer Time

the starter engauges but the belts do not move

If that is factual information, it only leaves low battery voltage, bad starter or seized engine and if you can turn the engine by hand with a socket on the crank bolt, that would eliminate seizure.

Response From nealdouglas

the motor isnt seized if i jump it at the starter it turns over.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

You do mean jump to where pos cable goes to starter and ground to good known ground? If that always works your problem is cables and or connections. I could try to explain how to check for voltage dropping while starter tries and doesn't work but GM side post cables are notorious for being bad and good old lead and copper cables are gone now so can be weak inside insulation along the way - either pos or ground.


If you meant jumping the "trigger" wire that's another issue. Think about just getting new quality cables completely - I would. Problem just too annoying for this crap all the time so would be new and greased up to last and routed as intended originally,


T

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Hmmm - moved ground wire? Where? Try using jumper cables to add ground to block and see if that helps assisting that wire which may be NG or the positive anywhere on route to starter,


T

Response From nealdouglas

ok tried using jumpers didn't help

2000 pontiac firebird won't start

Showing 2 out of 11 Posts | Show 9 Hidden Posts
Question From firebirdmama on 2000 pontiac firebird won't start

2000 Pontiac Firebird
3.8l series 2 v6
150,000kms

worked fine up to this point. stopped at store. came out won't start - lights & radio came on all gauges but engine wouldn't turn over - not even any clicking sounds of starter.
no warning lights or Engine lights came on.
Ruled out the starter and the cylinoid - not getting power to cylinoid (sorry for spelling :( ) We were able to start by jumping the cylinoid and then it stalls out.
We think it might have something to do with the security feature of car - do we need to purchase a whole new ignition system?? Can the keys be reprogrammed? Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Response From nickwarner

Is your security light flashing?

Response From nickwarner

your theft system is malfunctioning. I'll go off memory here on how to work around this one but I know HT has a post he might throw in if I get a detail wrong as to what to do. Under the dash on the column are black and yellow wires that will be twisted in a spiral. No other wires will be together with them. You cut those wires and on the harness side (not the side going to the column, with the wires cut it would do nothing) solder in a 2k ohm resistor. You can get them at radio shack. Tell them it is for a 12v DC system and use fine rosin core solder followed by heat shrink tubing to cover it. Turn the key on and attempt to start the car. It will stall. Leave the key on until the security light stops flashing. Turn the key completely to the lock position and then attempt to start the car. If the part in the ignition that recognizes your key is out, which is the most common thing to do this, you will have relearned the system and have no further troubles. As a bonus, you can use any key blank cut to your key to start this. You won't need a $65 chip key as you have bypassed the chip feature.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Some corrections here..........

You cannot bypass the security system in total only the sensor in the ignition switch and replacing the ignition switch would also resolve that issue. There is no special key required. Before doing anything drastic see if a relearn will work. If this doesn't at least fix it temporarily, then the sensor is not the issue and you will need a professional scan tool to diagnose the problem properly. Don't attempt to bypass anything before you have tried this.


PASSLOCK 10 MINUTE RELEARN


AUTO LEARN
Time required, approximately 10 minutes:

1. Insure that the battery is fully charged.
2. Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
3. Turn the ignition switch from the OFF position to the CRANK position attempting to start the vehicle. The vehicle will start and then stall.
4. Leave the ignition switch in the ON position while observing the security indicator.
5. When the security indicator turns off, which can take up to 10 minutes, turn the ignition switch off. Wait 10 seconds.
6. The BCM and the PCM will learn the new code on the next start attempt.

Response From firebirdmama

i tried but still no luck. the light has now stopped flashing when the car doors are closed - flashes when one is open. Still cannot start car. On the display where the engine light is on - the word security flashes when I have the key turned to the on position.

Response From Hammer Time

The immobilizer and the contents theft deterrent are 2 different things. I just looked at the immobilizer for your car and it uses Passkey, not Passlock. That means you should have a visual pellet in the metal part of the key. The sensor for this system is bypassed differently but that would have nothing to do with the doors,.

Try locking all the doors and unlocking the driver's door with the key or the clicker if you have one.

Here is some info on disarming it.


To deactivate the alarm when activated and functioning, use the following procedure:

  • If the alarm is activated by pressing the panic mode button on the remote transmitter, press the panic mode button again. Pressing the panic button a second time will deactivate the alarm.
  • If the alarm is activated by the shock sensor, door or rear lid release switch, the alarm is deactivated by any of the following actions:
  • Turn the ignition ON. Use the proper key.
  • Press any button on the remote transmitter.
  • Press UNLOCK in order to complete the following actions:
  • Silence the alarm
  • Unlock the driver door
  • Disarm the system
  • Press LOCK in order to complete the following actions:
  • Silence the alarm
  • Keep the doors locked
  • Keep alarm system activated
  • Press the rear compartment lift window panel button in order to complete the following actions:
  • Silence the alarm
  • Unlock the lift window panel
  • Disarm the lift window panel
  • Press the panic button in order to complete the following actions:
  • Silence the alarm
  • Keep the doors locked
  • Keep the alarm system activated
  • The alarm will deactivate after 2 minutes .
  • If the alarm is activated by an improper ignition key, press any button on the remote transmitter in order to deactivate the alarm.

  • Response From firebirdmama

    You are correct - there is a pellet in the metal part of the key. One thing to note is that when I hit lock on the keyfob the doors don't lock. But if the doors are locked, they can be unlocked using the fob unlock button. Trunk button & alarm button also work. I tried to disarm as per your instructions below, but I still cannot start the car.

    Response From firebirdmama

    Further to my previous email - if I were to hit the lock button on the fob - the doors don't lock as I said before, but the system does arm. If I were to open the door in this state, the alarm would sound.

    Response From Hammer Time

    Are you still getting the flashing security light when you try to start it?

    It's starting to sound like you may have a problem with the BCM and that is going to require a factory scan tool and some know-how to diagnose

    Response From firebirdmama

    Thanks everyone for the help. I've booked my appt and will let you know what they find.

    Response From firebirdmama

    yes

    2003 pontiac montana wont crank

    Showing 2 out of 21 Posts | Show 19 Hidden Posts
    Question From tbuc27 on 2003 pontiac montana wont crank

    i have a 2003 pontiac montana. i noticed the plug for the fans was broke. i cut the plug off, went to local salvage yard and got the same exact plug and spliced it to the wires on the van. after i got that done now the van won't crank. i try but nothing happens. anybody got any suggestions?

    Response From Hammer Time

    There isn't really any connection to engine operation. Look around the area and see if you knocked something else apart.

    Response From tbuc27

    i can't find anything. it acts like it would if you try to start it in gear

    Response From Hammer Time

    What does that even mean?

    Response From tbuc27

    i mean. that when you turn the key it does nothing. doesn't click doesn't do anything

    Response From Discretesignals

    Make sure the battery tests good, is fully charged, and your connections are clean and tight.

    Response From tbuc27 Top Rated Answer

    i'm not getting any power to the ignition relay. i just replaced the ignition switch but still nothing

    Response From Hammer Time

    Check the PCM/ABS fuse at the inside fuse box.

    Response From tbuc27

    the pcm/abs fuse is good but no power to it

    Response From Hammer Time

    Did you check it with the key on?

    Response From tbuc27

    no

    Response From Hammer Time

    Well, that's the only time it's powered.

    Response From tbuc27

    ok i'll go check

    Response From tbuc27

    there is power to pcm/abs fuse with key on but no power at all to pcm/crank fuse

    Response From Hammer Time

    It's not supposed to. that only powers during cranking.

    You have likely burned out a fusible link at the starter.

    Response From tbuc27

    ok....i'll check them out.

    Response From tbuc27

    it's all fixed

    Response From Hammer Time

    I hope you've gotr more to say than that. What was the problem?

    Response From tbuc27

    i'm not even sure what the problem was. i went out yesterday morning to work on it and the battery was dead. i hooked jumper cables to it and it started right up. i'm thinking the computer had to reset

    Response From Hammer Time

    No, that didn't make it start.

    Response From Hammer Time

    OK, so you have a "no crank" situation. Make sure you have it in Park but you're still looking broken wires or detached plugs.

    transsport windows dont work

    Showing 2 out of 25 Posts | Show 23 Hidden Posts
    Question From ldimarcant on transsport windows dont work

    1993 pontiac transsport 3.8 ltr.
    I own a 1993 pontiac transsport and have a question if anyone could help me please. my drivers side and passenger side windows stopped working. I checked the fuses in the glove box and all were good, I checked the circuit breaker below the glove box and that was good. I am running out of options, I tried a new switch for the drivers side with no luck, am I missing a fuse or can anyone tell me a location for the window fuse? I tried running the windows while opening the door to see if the wire may have broken!I also tried a new switch. email is personal info deleted

    Response From Discretesignals

    Probably a good place to start is by checking for power with the ignition on at the circuit breaker using a 12 volt test lamp or volt meter.

    Response From ldimarcant

    I am not any good at checking power or diagrams. I did switch out the circuit breakers. and tested all the fuses with a continuity tester by the glove box. I heard there might be a fuse under the hood, but I do not know where to look. is this possible and does the driver side switch if broken mean the passenger wont work either?
    thank you for your help

    Response From Hammer Time

    I am not any good at checking power or diagrams.


    Unfortunately that leaves you with either this option or paying a shop to do it for you.



    Response From ldimarcant

    lol. guess when it gets a little warmer I will check the wires going through the door to see if they are broken. guess there is no fuse under the hood from your responses. or pay 2 hours of $85 per hour to have mechanic look at it. the dome light does not dim when you press the switch. I did have to put a ignition module in last week. guess mainly I dont understand how to read the diagram. I always thought the windows had a fuse somewhere and a circuit breaker. I just cant find a fuse to check first.
    thanks anyways.

    Response From Hammer Time

    You can see in the diagram that all it has is the circuity breaker.

    Response From ldimarcant

    one more question, if I dont find power going to the circuit breaker. where would I look from there. I will have my neighbor check it out. what powers the breaker?

    Response From Discretesignals

    Does the front blower fan motor work on all the low speed settings?

    Response From ldimarcant

    yes it does

    Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

    That eliminates the fusible link and the ignition switch. Power from the link goes to the ignition switch which goes to the power window circuit breaker when the ignition switch is in the run position. The circuit from the switch that feeds the power windows also feeds the blower motor low speed relay.

    You still need to check for power in the CB cavity with the ignition on. Then work your way down the schematic until you find out where the open is.

    Response From ldimarcant

    thank you my neighbor came over and looked at your answers and understands them, he is going to check it out sunday. I will post if I find the problem...thankyou for your time and help much appreciated

    Response From Discretesignals

    Good luck and make sure you buy your neighbor a case of beer or root beer...lol

    Keep us posted.

    Response From ldimarcant

    the circuit breaker is getting power! the door switch does not get power. I followed the pink power wire through the door and into the engine compartment and the pink wire does not get power to that point either, guess now I have to follow the pink wire through the harness back to the breaker to find out where the break is! correct? its snowing now so I give up......is it possible to just run a hot wire to the pink so it works with like a inline fuse or will that wreck something? I will check back tomorrow to see if you post. I need a break. lol and rest.

    Response From nickwarner

    You've already narrowed it down to an area of breakage, so at this point the easier fix than rigging a wire is to open the loom up to the point it meets this circuit breaker and just repair the break. Then the next guy who runs into working on this van's electrical trouble in the future isn't confused by all these ghost wires that are no longer hooked up. You're on the right track here. Its snowing at my house too, just got back from the store before it gets too bad.

    Response From ldimarcant

    thank you. I did check the driver door jam but not the passenger yet. I will follow the pink wire back and see what happens. probably next weekend. looks like the harness goes down by the bottom of radiator, starter area, so I have to jack it up and crawl under the van.... I did have a catalytic converter put on last week that was red hot on the inside and the repair shop hosed it off to cool it down, I will check to see that area also, thanks again, I will come back and post the results!

    Response From Hammer Time

    No, no, no. This will be at the driver's door. The wire runs from the fuse box to the driver's switch. Just find out where it loses power.

    Response From ldimarcant

    hehe. ok thanks hammer. you sounded like daniel bryant from monday night raw for a second.

    Response From ldimarcant

    looks like hammer was right. I took it to a shop and he found a broken ground wire in the door jam! when my neighbor checked for power to the switch he was trying to use the ground that was broken during the test. anyways I think I learned a little more from all your help. thank you so much.. and the mechanic only charged me $80.. that's half of what the other mechanic wanted.
    thank you again. :O)

    Response From Hammer Time

    Glad to hear you found it. You learned a little about testing electrical circuits too.

    Question closed as solved.

    Response From Hammer Time

    Right in the door jam is the most likely spot for the break.

    Response From Sidom


    or pay 2 hours of $85 per hour to have mechanic look at it.
    I'm not sure where you got that quote from to diag a window issue but if it comes done to taking it to a shop, you may want to call around to some other places...

    Response From Discretesignals

    2 hours to diagnose a power window problem? Do you know anyone with a volt meter that knows how to use it to check circuits?

    Response From ldimarcant

    yes. I will ask him if he can do it. its like 6 degrees out here in wisconsin, so I will probably have to find a heated garage or wait for warmer weather.. thank you for the help

    Response From Discretesignals

    Your going to have a hard time figuring this one out unless you understand how to use a volt meter and or test light to check different parts of the circuit in that diagram above.

    Response From Hammer Time

    You could have broken wires or any number of other issues. The circuit needs to be troubleshooted by following a wiring diagram.