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Mitsubishi Eclipse locked up from ignition to steering, everything

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Question From Guest on Mitsubishi Eclipse locked up from ignition to steering, everything

Went out this morning, to start 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse, believed to be a 1.8 (sticker under hood) but has turbo button.

130,000 miles

The ignition switch locked solid, wheel wont turn, can't of course get it out of park, even the seat belts that are automatic retracks when the door opens, sit idol.

Tried two different keys, unplugged the battery cables, checked fuses. Nothing has seemed to work

Does anyone have an idea why all has locked up solid?

Response From cpaine0106 Top Rated Answer

This sounds like two different problems. 1) The steering wheel is probably jammed against a lock. Try forcing it a little in both directions while you turn the key. (Try not to bend the key. If you move the wheel enough, the key should turn normally.) 2) Is there any power at all? Have you checked battery voltage? If the battery voltage is ok, somewhere between 12.5 and 13 volts, check the power cables at both ends and ground cables at both ends. Posting your findings will help to provide insight to the problem

2001 Mitsubishi Mirage won't turn over

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Question From tmarie1992 on 2001 Mitsubishi Mirage won't turn over

So.... I left my lights on in my car for approximately 4 hours... obviously my car wouldn't start due to a dead battery... I got the battery re charged.. my car still won't start.. it clicks sometimes.. but doesn't turn over..... I also cleaned the battery cables off with steel wool to see if that would and help and nothing....I tried to find the starter to try tapping on it to see if it was the starter... BUT I COULDN'T EVEN FIND IT!!! What do you think??????? PLEASE HELP!!!

Just passed 230,000 miles...

Response From Hammer Time

You probably ruined the battery permanently. You need to have it tested.

Response From tmarie1992

I had it tested when it was recharged.. The lady at auto zone said that it was holding a charge.. so do you think that after I got it recharged and hooked it back up it somehow killed it?? If so. How?

Response From Hammer Time

If you're sure the battery is good, then it has to be a connections problem.

Response From tmarie1992

Like the connection form the cables to the battery? Or something else?

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

If you have the headlamps turned on while attempting to crank the engine, do the headlamps stay bright or do they dim out? The headlamps don't run through the ignition switch on this model. If they dim out, you probably have a battery or battery connection issue.

Response From tmarie1992

Thank you both!! It was actually the freaking battery!!! $100.00 later!!!

Response From Discretesignals

Batteries can be funky sometimes during testing. I've seen conductance testers pass batteries with bad cells. Load testing and specific gravity testing (if it has removable caps) is the final authority IMO. Especially if cells are bumping around into each other or if there is a lot of stuff floating in the bottom of the battery shorting stuff out.

Glad to read you got it figured out. Closed as solved. Can be reopened upon request by the OP.

Response From Hammer Time

Yes, make sure any smaller cables/wires weren't left off in the swap.

Also make sure the engine isn't just locked up for any reason. Try cranking it by hand with a socket on the crank bolt.

Frequent car starting--what to be aware of?

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Question From Kite on Frequent car starting--what to be aware of?

Hi everyone; I have a delivery job and almost had my 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage DE sedan stolen yesterday as it was left running during a delivery.

I'm not going to leave the car on anymore, which means I'll be starting it 20-40 times a day now. What should I be aware of in terms of added maintenance? (I'm not very car savvy)


Response From Hammer Time

The ignition switch and starter would take a little extra wear and tear but UPS and the Postal Service has been doing it for years.

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

Tough call and matters if practical to just leave it running for whatever you are doing or even possible. The USPS and UPS, FEX-EX that I observe always shut off vehicle and lock it.

As HT said starter and ignition would take some extra wear. I dare say having the best battery for instant starts could help with the starter. Maybe that lock de-icer (mild lube in it) would help with the key itself in lock cylinder but nothing I can think of for the ignition switch to help.

You really might have to replace something or get lucky but chalk that up to a cost of doing your biz,


Response From MarineGrunt

One thing you could do is take the key fob off the key ring and lock it while it's running. I know all it takes is a hammer to the window for someone to get in but at least if the door was locked it might prevent someone from trying.

I'm not a professional mechanic like the mods here so could be wrong but I don't think there is really any maintenance to prevent failure on starting a car too much. I guess over time the starter could eventually fail but I wouldn't think it would make much sense to put a new one on for preventive maintenance. A starter can go even if you aren't starting it 20-40 times a day. That's just the way things go sometimes.

I'm sure the real mechanics will chime in with better info.

2001 Mitsubishi Montero Ignition Problem

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Question From kellogs4toniee on 2001 Mitsubishi Montero Ignition Problem

Hey, first and foremost thanks for reading. My knowledge of car repair and cars in general is very weak and I am lost right now.

When i turn the ignition, it wont turn all the way and start the car. I thought maybe my battery wasn't supplying power to the start up, so I did a jump start from my Honda Civic. The front and back lights started working, as well as the interior touch screen. However, the ignition still wouldn't click and turn all the way.

My thoughts now are either it's an alternator or starter problem. Either way, I can't get the car started to bring it to a shop, so what do you advise is the next step?

Am I suppose to call a repairman to come to the house to check it out?

Best regards,


Response From Hammer Time

Are you saying that the switch physically won't turn all the way?

Response From kellogs4toniee

It wont turn all the way, like it's locked before I can even turn it.

I tried using another set of keys and it was the same.

Response From Hammer Time

You would have to start taking things apart to determine which part is locking up. It could be the lock or the electrical part of the switch.

Response From kellogs4toniee

I mis-spoke. The key turns in the ignition, but the engine doesnt start. The power isn't on either.

When I jump start the car with my Honda Civic, the power comes on but the engine still doesn't start.

I plan on taking my battery to Autozone tomorrow to get it recharged then testing it again. If it still doesnt work I'm assuming it is an alternator problem.

Does this sound about right?

Response From Hammer Time

If it still doesnt work I'm assuming it is an alternator problem.

That would be an incorrect assumption. The alternator merely recharged the battery. If the battery is fully charged at the time, the car should run until the battery runs down.
You will have to have the starter circuit troubleshooted using a wiring diagram.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Tony: Quote from post #7 ">>I mis-spoke. The key turns in the ignition, but the engine doesnt start. The power isn't on either.

When I jump start the car with my Honda Civic, the power comes on but the engine still doesn't start."
Forget the alternator for a minute or charge of battery. Does the key turn to "start" position or not? When you did get power with a jump did it turn "crank" the engine or not? Did it even make clicks or a ratcheting sound?

Can't go on with this if you don't tell us what is or isn't happening and if YOU are confused then this is lost and needs to be send out for repair and no harm in that. People in general aren't expected to fully understand the workings of everything vehicles or otherwise.

Easy with jumper cables not as good to use anymore vs a jumper pack separate from another vehicle. Quality of jumper cables varies so much that your connection isn't sure either yet. High end cables would start another without it having a battery but most people would faint at what that grade costs! Hundreds by now for either the high end cable or jumper boxes not on display anywhere usually as the cost would freak people out.

Do get a small battery charger that automatically shuts off and warns if connected wrong. No kidding, $20ish bucks - auto stores or even home centers. Those take up to two days for a totally discharged battery but can't tell you if battery is up to par for it's power to start a car AKA "Cold Cranking Amps" or CCA. To my own dismay neither do the folks who test them for you either many times.

Understand something: There's a sharp line between being a tech/mechanic and a parts person or outlet. Parts places should not be making a diagnosis or suggest what to repair unless asked and are qualified but leave that alone too. Analogy: Asking a parts outlet to suggest what's wrong and what will fix it is like a grocery store telling you what your family or company will like for dinner tonight and how to cook it. Interesting thought but not the way it works, Tom

Response From Tom Greenleaf Top Rated Answer

?? Fast read, sorry. Now it seems like battery is dead or low on top of the key not turning to "start" position such that I think it's NOT turning OFF either and draining power and still leads to an ignition lock cylinder to ignition switch problem - some broken something will probably have to be seen as said.

Keep in mind in general there's a huge difference between engines that crank and don't start and ones that don't crank at all. Just having some lights means little. If you don't know the difference between cranking or not this isn't for you,


Response From Tom Greenleaf

Same question but need to know if this is common key on column set up also. Tony - sound like you have a key that just doesn't turn to the "start" position which enables starter so far like one of these.........

Are you in neutral or park? Not sure of what fail safes this car (several models listed) might have the would prevent starter KEY from turning far enough is so.

That would probably be a broken lock cylinder or switch OR rods to switch. So far IDK but try if key using another and turning it upside down as the cuts on a physical key should only use one side at a time not both as you might think,


Response From Discretesignals

Am I suppose to call a repairman to come to the house to check it out?

Or have it towed to your local reputable repair shop. Keep the shady trees away from it.

1993 mitsubishi won't start

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Question From sophistocat on 1993 mitsubishi won't start

1993 Mitsubishi Mighty Max pu w/ 4.2 -4cyl-2wd won't start. I drove to the store and parked. re-entered the truck, started it, put it in reverse and let my foot off the brake and it died. It turned over but wouldn't start. Compression sounds normal, shot starting fluid in the air inlet and still no pop.Figuring it's a spark issue I started changing parts. So far I've changed plugs, wires, cap and rotor, coil, distributor, ecu and ecu relay, several fuses, and fuel pump for good measure. it still won't start. 12 v at the coil, no spark to the plugs. Parts guy suggesting ignition switch. really?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

We call that the "dartboard" method of diagnosis. Just keep throwing stuff at it until something sticks. Nothing ever sticks.

Here is the diagnostic method.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.