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Latest Chrysler Repair and Ignition Switch Installation Advice

CarJunky AutoAdvice

2004 Chrysler Sebring pin that connects to electrical portion of ignition switch

Showing 2 out of 2 Posts
Question From scottchrysler on 2004 Chrysler Sebring pin that connects to electrical portion of ignition switch

2004
Chyrsler
Sebring
4 clynider
102,000 miles



My auto repair problem is thing my ignition would turn but it was very loose and would not crank the car. I had the car towed to an auto repair shop and after diagnostics they called and alerted me that the electrical portion of the ignition switch needed to be replaced.

After they take apart the old part they see that it has a metal pin/rod connected to the part that was bent and broke off and they need that piece in order to have the electrical portion of the ignition switch to work. They said that the piece could have bent any my many attempt to crank car when I was turning the ignition. The mechanics also said the pin seems to connect from the lock cylinder to the switch.

When the mechanic called the dealership to ask if they had this part the dealership stated that they didn’t have the part by itself and they would have to replace the entire Steering Column which would cost about $1600 and I thought that was absolutely crazy, so I go from having to pay $300 dollars to the auto mechanic to replace the electrical component in the ignition switch to the dealership saying I need to fork out $1600 for an entire Steering Column.

My question is does anyone know if this pin or rod has a specific name and where will I be able to find this part, any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Thank you very much







Close up of pin/rod




Below is the electrical portion of the ignition switch that needs to be replaced. If you look into the hole you can see where the pin has broken off.




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Response From Loren Champlain Sr Top Rated Answer

You should be able to find a used assembly in a wrecking yard for a fraction of that price. The labor to replace the column won't be too terribly expensive.

1992 Chrysler New Yorker HELP ME PLEASE

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From tlaw15 on 1992 Chrysler New Yorker HELP ME PLEASE

Hey I'm having a few problems with my chrysler new yorker. First my ignition got stuck and then started to move again but for some reason does not start my car, also the windows and ac stopped working. Could this all come from the ignition switch? Also I get no gas readout on the gasometer or the overhead console. Please any help or suggestions are very much appreciated.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

"Gasometer"........... Now there's a new one.

Yes, it does sound like you're having issues with an ignition switch or related linkage. It needs to be examined.

Response From tlaw15

thanks a lot man. i figured it was the ignition switch but feared it could be more

1992 Chrysler New Yorker HELP ME PLEASE

Showing 3 out of 3 Posts
Question From tlaw15 on 1992 Chrysler New Yorker HELP ME PLEASE

Ok I have a 1992 Chrysler New Yorker Fifth Avenue 3.8L it has 143k miles on it. I have a problem with my power windows and ac. My power windows no longer work and my ac doesn't blow anything not even heat. I recently had a problem with my ignition switch and it has been replaced just a few days ago. The problem with the windows and ac happened before I replaced my ignition switch and I was hoping that replacing the ignition switch would fix it but it didn't. Please help and any suggestions are appreciated. My local mechanic usually overcharges for everything thats why I'm trying to fix the problem before sending it to him.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Are all the power window inoperative? Do you have power to the window motor circuit breaker with the ignition turned on in the fuse panel? If you have power, you'll have to get to the driver's side window switch connectors and check for power to the switch on the TAN wire with the ignition on.

The blower motor is inoperative? (no air from vents?) Does this have automatic temperature control?

Response From tlaw15

thanks for the reply to the post i'm sorry it took me so long to get back to you but i been in a boot camp like training for a week. I have figured out the problem with it it was just a fuse for my blower motor and my rear window motor was blown.

1969 Chrysler 300

Showing 4 out of 5 Posts | Show 1 Hidden Posts
Question From Mighty300 on 1969 Chrysler 300

my engine turns over and runs but only if i hold the key in the right place. i think its the ignition switch. i need confirmation or correction.

Response From Hammer Time

The ignition system starts on 12 volts and runs on 8 volts. There is a white porcelain resister mounted on the firewall. When that burns out, it will run when the key is in the start position but not the run position.

Response From Mighty300

thank you that was the problem exactly

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

You're welcome. Back in the 60s and 70s, I used to carry one of those in the glove box because it was so common

Response From Mighty300

Thank you, i will check that out as soon its light out

2004 Chrysler Sebring GTC, 2.7l engine - no crank - no start

Showing 3 out of 15 Posts | Show 12 Hidden Posts
Question From DataMgr4u on 2004 Chrysler Sebring GTC, 2.7l engine - no crank - no start

Chrysler Sebring GTC, 2.7l engine - no crank - no start
Battery is good
The starter and solenoid is good, as I can jump socket 30 to 87 and it turns the starter motor over.
Power to both sockets 30 and 87a all the time
Power to sockets 85 and 86 when in crank position, however no power to socket 87.... and yes relay is good and clicking when trying to crank engine via ignition switch (i believe this means the ignition switch and neutral switch should be good as it is completing the circuit.
the person is also getting a no bus error - - but they are not sure if it was giving that error before the no start no crank issue
It sounds to me lke a pcm signal issue or grounding issue but wouldn't even guess as to what or how to test to prove this. This vehicle has both a pcm with two plugs and a tcm/ecm.

Response From Discretesignals

If the relay is clicking when you turn the ignition to crank, that means you have control. If you jump 30 to 87 in the relay socket and the starter operates, that means your battery, cables, the circuits on the load side of the relay, and starter is good. You stated the relay is good. Did you swap it with a known good one and still had the same results? 87 is the load side that goes to the starter solenoid, so it won't be showing battery voltage with the relay removed. Are you checking with the relay removed from the socket with a volt meter?

Response From DataMgr4u

relay is clicking, but no power to 87. Yes, the relay is good... replaced and even bench tested.
relay shows no power to 87 while in socket and vehicle being cranked.

Response From Discretesignals

You jump 30 to 87 and starter cranks. You turn key to start and relay clicks, but you have no power on 87 when you turn key to start.

When the relay is plugged into the cavity how are you making your voltage measurements? Are you sneaking under the relay with your volt meter probe, rigged some test wires up that come around the relay body, or testing from underneath the PDC?

Response From DataMgr4u

I first did probe underneath.... got no reading for pin 87.


Later I got a fuse jumper kit... and tested directly with relay fully pushed into sockets..... still same outcome! no power is going to socket 87 before, during, or after turning ignition switch to crank/start position.

Response From Discretesignals

With relay plugged in and volt meter black lead connected to battery negative. What do you have for voltages on 85 and 86 with ignition turned to start?

With ignition turned to start, you should see battery voltage on terminal 86 and close to zero volts on terminal 85. Relay should be latched.

With ignition turned to start you should see battery voltage on terminal 30.

Response From DataMgr4u

I don't remember... I wrote all that down in my notebook, but left it with the car.
I will post at 2pm EST tomorrow.

Response From DataMgr4u

ok the results were as follows:
In off position, 12v noted to socket 87 only
In on position, 12v noted to sockets 87, 85, and 86
In crank position, 12v noted to sockets 87 and 86


Using 12v testing light to ground the following results were noted:
In off position, light on socket 30 only
In on position, light on socket 30 only
In crank position, Light on socket 30 and 86... nothing else


There is power into the ignition switch via the pink wire and out via the yellow wire when in the crank position.


Of note, yesterday I had power to both sockets 30 and 87a all the time

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Forget 87a. That one isn't used because it is hot only when the relay isn't latched.

I don't understand how you have voltage on 87 with the ignition off. 87 is the load side that goes to the starter solenoid and shouldn't have 12 volts when the relay contacts are open. Maybe you had 87 and 87a confused.

If 85 had 12 volts on it with the key to the start position, the relay shouldn't be clicking or doing anything. This relay is controlled by the engine computer on the ground side of the relay coil. When the engine computer grounds the circuit when you have 12v on 86, the voltage on 85 goes low or near zero and the relay latches.


Response From DataMgr4u

Battery good, ignition switch good, neutral safetty switch good, starter and solenoid good, relay itself good and clicks when trying to turn over engine... ie in crank position.
However, the only way I can get the car starter to turn over is by by-passing from socket 30 to 87.


Is it a possibility that the PCM isn't sending or receiving signal for completion of circuit? If so how can the PCM be tested.... how to test for signal in and out, as well as ground.... ie there are two connectors on the PCM with up to 40 pins on each connector.


Likewise, as stated earlier am also getting no bus error in dash gauge.... yet everything on the dash are all working..... just no crank - no start.


The car test itself works fine and shows no errors other than no bus. Also tried to use code reader/scanner but no codes were found.

Response From GC

Maybe I missed it but I didnt see 85 being tested for ground from pcm. I have seen chryslers with no bus displayed caused by bad ground causing no crank. DS is right, need to get testing straight.

Response From DataMgr4u

When hooking my light tester to ground and positive end to 85 socket.... nothing noted.... ie tester did not light.... does that mean I have a bad ground to pcm?


Where is the ground wire for the pcm as no cable coming from PCM box..... therefore I can only assume it is one of the 40 pins from the top connector or one of the 40 pins from the bottom connector.

Response From Discretesignals

When hooking my light tester to ground and positive end to 85 socket.... nothing noted.... ie tester did not light.... does that mean I have a bad ground to pcm?

You have to understand something here. When your test lamp is connected to battery negative and you probe 85 while turning the engine to crank, the light isn't going to light if the PCM is grounding the relay coil. Putting a test lamp on the side of the circuit when it has power waiting for a ground, probably won't make the test lamp light because there isn't enough current that will run through the relay coil to light the lamp. Basic ohms law.

If your hearing the relay clicking, that usually means the PCM is grounding it and you stated you can hear the relay clicking when your turning the ignition to start.

I think you should hang it up and have it towed to a shop that specializes in electrical.

Response From Hammer Time

As the diagram indicates, it's pin #31 of the C1 connector.

Response From Discretesignals

Something is wrong in your testing. The diagram above pretty much gives you what you should have and what goes where.

I don't understand that you hear the relay itself click, but your not getting power on 87 when you have power on 30. Your readings of 12 volts on 85 and 87 when the ignition is in the on position doesn't make any sense. If you notice in the wiring diagram power from the switch to the relay only occurs when the switch is in the crank, number 1, position.

Your missing something in your testing or your testing wrong. Maybe your confusing the starter relay for another relay that is clicking. No bus in the cluster could be from the BCM not communicating with the MIC. You would need a scan tool to interface the modules in the vehicle to pull codes and also see if you can communicate with the MIC and the BCM.