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2003 Chevrolet Malibu won't start

Showing 2 out of 4 Posts | Show 2 Hidden Posts
Question From Big Sam on 2003 Chevrolet Malibu won't start

I have a 2003 Chevrolet Malibu that won't start. When the key is turned to the start position the motor just turns over. I the mean time none of the gauges registers. When the gauges do finally register the motor will turn over and start. It takes some time for these gauges to register so thqt the vehicle can start. I need help.

Response From Discretesignals Top Rated Answer

Could be a faulty ignition switch. You'll have to check for power to and after the switch on the circuits that are powered up in the start position.

Response From Big Sam

Supposly the switch was changed by a mechanic but I somehow doubt that this was done are you saying that I should try something say the turn signal while the gauges are not responding?

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Brake lights or hazards should stay operational - not sure of other items in this case,

T

1992 Chevrolet S-10 cuts off when air condition or heater is turned on

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Question From Nathan Scott on 1992 Chevrolet S-10 cuts off when air condition or heater is turned on

I have a 1992 Chevrolet S-10 pickup truck with a 4.3L V6 that will crank up but idles really low. When putting in gear the truck almost cuts off, however if you turn the air condition or heater on the truck will die right down and cut off. I have replaced the idle air control valve, the EGR valve, the map sensor, and the tps. What am I missing? Please help!

Response From kev2

This is a 4.3L with a TBI - a very easy to work system without a scanner- the BASICS will apply and can be easily checked.
Charging system - battery good alt putting out?
have you checked for codes- OBDI system is limited BUT a start.
The CEL - does it come on at every start @2 seconds then go out?

Basics- plugs- spark- VACUUM- fuel pressure- (can see the injectors pattern) ,

I am guessing there is 1) charging issue, 2) CODE

Response From Nathan Scott

It turns over and starts right up. I haven't check for codes as I don't have the necessary tools to do so. As for the CEL, I have no idea what that is, I'm a rookie at working on automobiles! This truck was giving to me by my father-in-law. It has 238,000 miles on it. It ran good when I got it from him, however, trying to do good by the truck that was giving to me I put Sea Foam cleaner in the gas tank, thinking I was doing a good thing but ever since I used the Sea Foam it has not ran right. It immediately began idling lower. Could that be the problem?

Response From DanD

CEL = Check Engine Light or Service Engine Soon Light

You can get what is called flash codes from this year of vehicle.
Jumper the terminals that are shown in the diagram below.
You'll find this connector under the left (driver's) side of the dash.
You count the flashes for example a code 24 would be 2 flash and pause and then 4 flashes. Each code will repeat itself 3 times.
Once you find the connector install the jumper wire (Steel paper clip works fine), then turn the ignition to the run position with out starting the truck.
The check engine light should begin flashing codes.



Dan.

Response From Nathan Scott

Ok I'll try this then I'll let you know what I get. Thanks for all your help

Response From Nathan Scott

I'm getting two different set of blinks the first one is dot-dot,dot; the second is dot ,dot-dot,dot or if you will, blink-blink,blink; the second is blink,blink-blink,blink. I don't know what they mean but that is what it is doing!

Response From DanD

If you read it correctly that would be a code 34 MAP voltage low.
With the engine running make sure the MAP sensor has vacuum being supplied; that the line is not cracked and leaking vacuum.
If that is OK; disconnect the MAP wiring harness and jumper terminals B &C (I think the light gray wire and the gray wire); the connector should be marked ABC. Start the engine and do what you have to to keep it running.
Shut it off after a few minutes and recheck codes. If you have a code 33 now; that will tell us that the ECM (computer) and wiring is OK for that circuit; replace the sensor.

http://www1.prodemand.com/img/G91B12188


Sorry for the size of the images any smaller for the component locator and I couldn't read it.

Dan

Response From Nathan Scott

Thanks I'll try it out and will get back to you as soon as I can.

Response From Nathan Scott

Also, how do I check to see if it is getting any vacuum?

Response From Nathan Scott

It is flashing 3 times pause then 4 times

Response From DanD

OK code 34?
Which of the other test have you done?????
Dan.

Response From Nathan Scott

I took the wire harness off of the map sensor and ran it like you said. I also checked for vacuum and it does have vacuum going to the map sensor

Response From Nathan Scott

When I took the hose off of the map sensor the truck idled up but when I put it back on the truck idled right back down to just about nothing.

Response From Nathan Scott Top Rated Answer

When I first turn the ignition switch on it flashes 1 then pauses and flashes 2 times. Then it flashes 2 times pause then 2 more times then it goes to 3 flashes pause then 4 flashes

Response From DanD

The code 12 tells us that you are in diagnostics
Code 22 is the TPS circuit voltage low
Code 34 is MAP voltage low.
I was wondering when you were going to post code 12; because if you didn't; I'd know you were doing something wrong.
You're going to have to start doing some meter testing.
Or throw in the towel and take the truck in.
I'll be off line likely until tomorrow.
Gather all your thoughts, organize them and then post a detailed list of things you've tested along with the results.
Remember I'm not there to see what you've just finished doing. You have to tell me/us.

Dan

Response From Nathan Scott

Thanks for all the help, I will keep you posted

Response From kev2

the 2 codes TPS ad MAP both low voltage... using the great picture of the map sensor to guide you see if you have 5v at the sensor, same for the TPS... Next check the ground portion of the sensors, like I said an easy system to work and being so common lots of tips developed over the years.

Response From Nathan Scott

Both sensors are registering 6V. How do I check the ground?

Response From kev2

using a DVOM one lead grounded the other probe the ground circuit... should show continuity NOT open
Plan B with KOEO probe and post the signal voltage -

A DVOM is used to be overly cautious when working circuits that terminate at the vehicle computer...

Response From Nathan Scott

It is now flashing a sequence of 3 times then 4 times

Response From DanD

With the engine running pull the vac line off the sensor and put your finger over the end. You'll likely have to play with the throttle to keep the engine running.
There should be enough vacuum to just hold the line to your finger.

Dan.

Response From Hammer Time

Have you burned through that tank of fuel yet?

Response From Nathan Scott

Yes sir, many times over, I have even tried other injector cleaners, fuel additives, etc. but nothing has worked so far. I did find a broken gasket under the injectors where it attaches to the throttle body.

Not starting

Showing 2 out of 7 Posts | Show 5 Hidden Posts
Question From jp151920 on Not starting

I have a 2000 Chevrolet Impala 3.8l engine with 120,000 miles. I am not car saavy at all. My car will not start. When I turn the key nothing happens. I charged the battery and tested it and its OK. Battery connections are also good. I located the starter and tried to manually start it using a screwdriver and the engine and starter seem to be working fine but when i release the screwdriver the engine stops. I do not know what to do next. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Response From Sidom

Is there any aftermarket alarms on the vehicle or is the security light flashing?

Response From jp151920

No aftermarket alarms. The security light is still flahing. The When I manually put a screwdriver on the starter it turns and appears to want to start but after I take it off the engine stops. I checked all the fuses and the one labeled PCM(crank) has no power going into it.

Response From Jeff Norfolk

Security light is flashing because the PassLock sensor is not recognizing the chip in the key. Either the key is bad are the PassLock sensor is. Could be some other problem related to the PassLock sensor like electrical issue but the sensor or the key are the most common and probable. Try another key before you go any further.

Response From jp151920

I do not have a chip in my key.
The key I am using now was copied at Wal Mart
It has worked hundreds of times before on this car.

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Passlock does not use a coded key. I'm giving you the relearn procedure. this may or may not work because you may have a hard failure elsewhere in the Passlock circuit. If this happens too often, you may have a bad Passlock sensor in the ignition switch and it would have to be replaced and then perform the relearn again.


PASSLOCK 10 MINUTE RELEARN


AUTO LEARN
Time required, approximately 10 minutes:

1. Insure that the battery is fully charged.
2. Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
3. Turn the ignition switch from the OFF position to the CRANK position attempting to start the vehicle. The vehicle will start and then stall.
4. Leave the ignition switch in the ON position while observing the security indicator.
5. When the security indicator turns off, which can take up to 10 minutes, turn the ignition switch off. Wait 10 seconds.
6. The BCM and the PCM will learn the new code on the next start attempt.

Response From Tom Greenleaf

Try it in Neutral it may go. There is a neutral safety on about all cars but had you left the key in the run position it should have stayed running with going directly to starter.

That or ign switch has a problem or if this car has a chip in the key try another key with the correct chip,

T

01 malibu key cylinder problem

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Question From greasemnky on 01 malibu key cylinder problem

2001
Chevrolet
Malibu LS
3.1 V6
165000miles

i was able to start my car for the past four days. i drove it to school to replace the head gasket, and when i got there i pulled the key out of the ignition went inside to open a bay door. i got back into my car and my key will go in and out of the key cylinder but will not turn. i was told that if i buy a new one that all i had to do would be to just turn the key to the on position for 10mins. and that would fix it. some one else said it would have to have the computer flashed who is right? and how do i fix it?

Response From Hammer Time Top Rated Answer

Auto Learn:

Time required, approximately 10 minutes.

  1. Insure that the battery is fully charged.
  2. Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
  3. Turn the ignition switch from the OFF position to the CRANK position attempting to start the vehicle. The vehicle will start and then stall.
  4. Leave the ignition switch in the ON position while observing the security indicator.
  5. When the security indicator turns off, which can take up to 10 minutes, turn the ignition switch off. Wait 10 seconds.
The BCM and the PCM will learn the new code on the next start attempt.

Response From greasemnky


1993 chevrolet wont start or turn over

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Question From Maverick19g20 on 1993 chevrolet wont start or turn over

I have a 1993 chevy S10 engine size 2.4 and the truck simply wont start. one day after i got home the truck wouldn't even turn over even after i drove it a short while ago. it doesn't respond when i push the clutch pedal in. i know the battery has a good charge, i believe the transmission isn't the problem because it doesn't slip and it still has good pull. but the truck wont start when the clutch is pushed in or when i tried to pop the clutch on a hill. any possible options?

Response From Maverick19g20

guys i believe you misread my passage a bit. i said that i know the battery has a good charge. because it is a new battery...>.>
please forgive me if i seem rude for i do not intend to be

Response From Sidom


i know the battery has a good charge. because it is a new battery...>.>

You wouldn't believe how much time I've seen guys waste making the same mistaken assumption........

Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. I've seen them bad right off the shelf. A bad alternator can drain a good battery in less than a days driving, a parasitic draw can drain a battery overnight.....

You want to skip this step. Then next thing would be to give the starter body a rap with a hammer to see if it will crank, if no go then its time to break out the voltmeter & check for power at the trigger wire and then start running voltage drop tests on the circuit.....

Of course if the battery is bad then your test results are probably going to condemn the starter. It would be a shame to waste all that diag time & then money on a new starter only for it to still not start & finally find out you had a bad battery.

Slower is faster.............

Response From steve01832 Top Rated Answer

Dash lights. When you turn the key to crank, do the dash lights dim or are they bright. If they dim, low voltage is the culprit. If they stay bright, you need to check the starter solenoid for a signal to engage. If the wire is dead, you will need to backtrack the circuit to see if it's wiring, starter relay, clutch switch, or ignition switch related.

Steve

Response From Maverick19g20

if these areas are easy to check with minimal equip and prep i would do it but if it requires more time and such what would be the best course of action?

Response From Sidom

Probably the best thing to do first would be to test the battery. Like Steve mentioned,too low of voltage & it's not going to crank and if the voltage is real low then it won't run either.

Get the battery tested, if it turns out to be bad, once you get the truck started you may want to get the charging system checked or if you have a voltmeter, hook it up & make sure you're in the 13.8 to 14.8 range while it's running.........

Response From nickwarner

Listen to steve and sidom as they are good at this and know what they are doing. I have merely a simple suggestion to offer that may help. You have a side post battery, and those terminals are evil about getting corroded and hard to clean. Use a pick and physically separate the bolt from the terminal. Now work the rubber end off the metal piece. Clean with anything needed until a shiny brass shows on both sides of the terminal and the bolt is clean too. If in doubt, blow 5 bucks and get new bolts. Use a 6-point socket to tighten them to prevent damage. These terminals need to be opened up and cleaned well as they are good at hiding corrosion and with a bad connection wont allow you to start the truck. When you have everything clean, do yourself a favor and coat all items liberally with dielectric grease (another cheap item) to prevent a future problem. I've fixed 3 no-starts on GM vehicles this month by doing just that. The weakest link of any electrical system is its connections. They basically must be perfect or trouble is coming. While cleaning connections, get the battery tested as suggested and when you do get it running test the charging system. Please post back with results, whether this fixed it or not. A lot of people read these and knowing what worked for others can help them too.